How to sew a tuck on a dress. How to make a tuck on a pattern. Transfer of the chest tuck to the armhole line

The fitted shirt emphasizes the dignity of the male figure. Its owner looks especially slender and broad-shouldered - of course, if he initially has a good physique. Classic shirts are often made too loose. This is not always liked by those who do not like to wear jackets. To give the product the desired silhouette is not so difficult. It is enough to make tucks on the back of the shirt. This is what we will discuss now.

Where to sew?

Sewing a classic shirt is a rather complicated process. If you take a good look at it, then make sure that the seams are unusual there, and there are no allowances anywhere, and all the details are sealed thoroughly. Try to rip something and grind it again? It is unlikely that it will turn out as beautiful as a factory product. Therefore, the question arises of how to make tucks on a shirt so that you do not have to cut anything and restore a rather complicated sewing seam.

But there is always a way out. You need to make vertical tucks, and the only detail that is suitable for this is the back.

Important! If you try to sew in a men's shirt from the sides, the seams will turn out to be very rough, and the product will instantly lose its corporate look.

For some models, you can remove excess fabric from the shelves, but this is not the best option:

all seams on the shelves are very clearly visible;
the front quite often has pockets, valves, that is, it will be difficult to make the seams neatly.

On the back, the vertical seams look very organic, even the most captious observer does not pay attention to them, deciding that this is just such a style.

We sew in a shirt

So, you have decided that you will suture the back. You won't need to unpack anything. But you will need the most common things:

tailor's pins;
crayon or aquamarker;
ruler or measuring tape;
sewing machine.

You don’t need to mark anything in advance, everything is done right on the one who will wear this shirt:

Turn the shirt inside out.
Ask your “model” to put it on and zip it up.
Mark the waist line on the shirt.
Find its middle and put a point (on the lower back).
Mark where the waist line will intersect with the darts on the back of the shirt - there are supposed to be two of them, and they should be strictly symmetrical.
Cut off the tucks - do not forget to make sure that they should be located vertically, moreover, they should be the same in length.

Please note that men's shirts are often made on a yoke. In this case, it will be very reasonable to place the tops of the darts where the yoke meets the main parts of the back.

Important! Don't forget to also see if there are too large loose pieces of fabric left underneath. This is especially true when a man has very narrow hips. In such cases, it is more convenient to bring the darts on the back of the shirt to the bottom - the shirt will look much more elegant.

Let's start sewing

When you have planned everything, tried it on and appearance products completely satisfied you, you can proceed to “machine work”. But sewing on pins is very inconvenient, so we do the following:

We outline the top of each tuck with chalk or an aquamarker.
We make a mark on the waist line where it intersects with the future tuck.
Immediately on the waistline we mark the width of the tuck.
For convenience, we connect the width marks and the top along the ruler.
We remove the pins.

Correcting

Of course, everything looked perfect on the model, because that's what you were striving for. It seems that you have accurately drawn all the lines. But this does not give a 100% guarantee that finished product tucks will be symmetrical and the same. It is better to measure seven times, and only then scribble:

Determine the line of the middle of the back - there you have a point.
Fold the product in half so that the fold is exactly in the middle of the back.
Remember to carefully align the side and shoulder seams, as well as the armhole lines.
Insert three pins into the fold line - from below, at the waist line and from above.
Connect the punctures with a straight line.
Check the perpendicularity of the middle of the back and the waist line (a very handy thing is a tailor's square).
Check how the tuck lines match. If they diverge, they must be corrected.

Important! There are situations when tucks do not have to be the same. If a man has a markedly curved spine, check only the symmetry relative to the midline, the peaks do not need to be aligned, as well as the depth.

Shutdown

The next stage of work is the grinding of tucks. The procedure is the same as when sewing any other product with similar details:

Baste the darts strictly along the lines.
Try on a shirt on a model and see how it all looks.
If necessary, make another correction.
Stitch the darts, paying special attention to the tops - there should not be sharp transitions, the transition to the main fabric should be very smooth.

Where is the iron?

The shirt is almost ready, there are mere little things left - more precisely, even one. Any tuck must be properly ironed:

Lay the shirt wrong side up on the ironing board.
Set the regulator to the desired fabric.
Iron the darts to the midline of the back.

Hello my dear blog readers! Now we will look at several ways translation of the breast tuck, because for sure you will want to hide "from the eyes" this large tuck on the pattern-based dress. If you have not made yourself a base pattern yet, follow the link (there is a step by step process pattern building - the basics for beginners).

Ways to translate the breast tuck will open before you an incredible variety of models. That is, it is you who can feel like a fashion designer and come up with a dress for yourself.

First, transfer to tracing paper that part of the pattern on which you will make the transfer of the tuck (front or back of the bodice).

Main rule:

to achieve smooth lines, the tuck should not reach the center of the chest (in my drawing this is point G6) by 2 cm (if its ends point UP), and 3-4 cm (if its ends point DOWN). Then the fabric will not become a cone on the chest.

This is the most common way to translate a tuck. You choose for yourself - at what distance from the armhole will the tuck be located? It can lie horizontally, or it can be slightly lowered (from the bottom of the armhole on the side, set aside 3-6 cm, and connect this point with the point of the center of the chest).

The ends of the tuck look down, so from the center of the chest we shorten the tuck by 3-4 cm. Cut along this line, and close the tuck at the top.

Transfer of the chest tuck to the armhole line

Most often, to transfer to the line of the armhole, use the P6 point with base pattern drawing.

The ends of the tuck look up, so we shorten the length of the tuck by 2 cm.

Transfer of the chest tuck to the shoulder line

Select any point on the shoulder line for the new direction of the tuck. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

Thus, the tuck will also remain on the shoulder, only its direction will change slightly.

You can translate the tuck into two soft folds. (as in the picture below)

Translation of the chest tuck into the neck

We mark the line of translation to the side of the neck. We shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

Transfer of the chest tuck to the center line

Do not forget to shorten the length of the undercut by 3 cm. (the photo also shows the transfer of the tuck to the center)

Transfer of the chest tuck to the waist line

Draw the sides of the tuck taking into account the bulge of the chest. Lower the undercut angle by 3 cm.

Relief - another version of the chest tuck

The relief is a line that combines the chest and waist darts.

The relief can be from the shoulder line, from the armhole, from the neck, from the center.

In tight-fitting silhouettes (read about silhouettes and types of figures), the relief is located on the most convex points of the chest and shoulder blades.

Relief from the armhole

Relief from the shoulder

Neck relief

First, we make the transfer of the chest tuck to the center. And then we close the center tuck, and it will open near the relief.

Front detail with a fold (how to cut out)

Remember, when building a drawing of the front of the pattern-base of the dress, we made a fit in the chest area (semi-skid). So: in order for us to be able to cut out the front part of the bodice with a fold, we need to ensure that the front fold line is vertical and straight. A semi-skid creates curvature on the future fold line (see the drawing below, the place of the half-skid is marked in pink)

Therefore, in order to make the fold line straight, we shift the selected segment (in white in the figure below), forming a straight fold line in the center of the front piece. Thus, the chest tuck will increase slightly. The white sector will lie on the drawing with a slight overlap below the center line of the chest (as it should be).

All! Thus, a bodice detail with a fold in the center will be obtained, which is convenient when translating the chest tuck into a relief.

Interesting options for translating the chest tuck

I bring to your attention various additional options for translating the breast tuck, maybe they will inspire you to create BEAUTIFUL!

This is where I will end this long review of the translation of the chest tuck! I hope you can find the right option that inspires you! I wish you good luck, and sew with me! See you soon on the blog pages!

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Hello, in this article we will consider one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the volumetric shape of the basic design of the dress by remodeling the chest tuck and the shoulder tuck of the back.

Some models of shoulder clothing are more voluminous in comparison with the basic design of the dress. One way to obtain such a shape from a basic design is constructive modeling. With an increase in volume, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and clothing along the chest line increases, which leads to a greater detachment of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, the curvature of the surface decreases in front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the area of the shoulder blades, and the product turns out to be flatter, not emphasizing the chest.

Structurally, such a model form is achieved by reducing the openings of the upper tuck in the front and the shoulder tuck in the back, up to their complete elimination by unmodeling the base tucks.
Under tuck demodeling understand the translation of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neck, bottom line, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which allows you to get a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.

I propose to consider how to properly unmodel tucks. To begin with, we will transfer the details of the basic design of the dress to a blank sheet of paper and be sure to mark the control points of the armhole.

As a rule, darts are not used in three-dimensional products (depending on the model of the product). Therefore, we can simply remove the tucks along the waistline on the shelf and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of traveling tucks along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely, in accordance with this, new side sections are built. If there is a notch along the waist line on the middle line of the back, then this tuck can also be removed and a new middle section of the back can be drawn.

Well, now let's move on to unmodeling the tucks.

shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the drawing of the shelf, we will build auxiliary lines to those sections where it is possible to unmodel the share of the chest tuck:
in the middle line- the auxiliary line is built from the top of the chest tuck to the line of the middle of the shelf at a right angle;
in the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the chest tuck to the line of the armhole of the shelf 1-2 cm above the control point;
in the bottom line- from the top of the chest tuck, a vertical line is built to the line of the bottom of the shelf.

Thus, we can unmodel the chest tuck: in the line of the shoulder, in the middle line, in the armhole line and in the line of the bottom of the shelf.
Let's consider several options for unmodeling the chest tuck.

First way
Let's cut the detail of the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the bottom line.

Let's translate the solution of the chest tuck:
in the armhole line can be remodeled up to 2cm,
in the line of the shoulder- up to 1 cm,
the rest is unmodeled in the bottom line shelves.

When translating the tuck, the cuts were broken, we will draw a new shoulder line, armhole line and bottom line.

And so, we got a shelf without a chest tuck.

Since we unmodeled the tuck into the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, accordingly, the shoulder line lengthened by this amount. If the model does not require it, this value is cut off from the end of the arm. We also lengthened the bottom line, that is, the shelf expanded to the bottom line. If such extension along the line of the bottom is not desired, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the lateral line.

Second way
This method is used if the product has a V-shaped neckline or a jacket-type collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the midline.

Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the cut point on the midline so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1 cm. The rest of the tuck can be modeled into the armhole line, but the allowable value is up to 2 cm.

We draw a new section of the armhole, and a neck or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a chest tuck.

Third way(unmodeling in the middle line)
If the shelf is not split or has a blind clasp, then you can use this method of modeling the chest tuck.
Let's cut the shelf detail along all constructed auxiliary lines.

This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. In the line of the armhole we translate the solution of the chest tuck up to 2 cm, the rest - in the bottom line.

Having lowered the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we have shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of reduction of the shelf along the chest line. Then we will build a new armhole line and a bottom line.

The hem extension can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this extension from the side cut.

back modeling
To model the shoulder tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades, we also need to build auxiliary lines to the cuts of the back:
to armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder undercut to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole for a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically down.
Based on this, we can unmodel the shoulder tuck of the back into two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.

Let's cut the back detail along the auxiliary lines and translate the solution of the shoulder tuck:
in the line of the shoulder- by the same amount as on the shelf in order to maintain the fit (up to 1 cm)
in the armhole line- translate the rest of the tuck (up to 1-2cm).
In addition, along the bottom line, it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.

Let's draw new sections along the line of the shoulder, armhole and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line the extension is cut off, which turned out after the chest tuck was unmodeled, then on the back it is also possible to cut off this extension from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder cut of the back longer than the line of the shoulder of the shelf; in the process of sewing, this difference is laid on the fit of the shoulder of the back.

Thus, we got a backrest pattern without a shoulder tuck.

In products with split back along the middle line, another zone is possible into which a part of the shoulder tuck can be unmodeled - this is the middle line of the back. On this section of the back, it is permissible to unmodel up to 0.6 cm of the shoulder tuck.

In this case, the neckline of the backrest becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the model of the product, expansion of the neck is not desirable, then the line of the shoulder from the side of the neck can be extended by the amount of expansion of the neck, and the same amount can be cut off from the end of the shoulder. Next, new sections of the neck and armholes of the back are built.

Sleeve modeling
When remodeling the chest tuck and the shoulder tuck of the back on both parts, the armhole lengthened. Therefore, we need to change the sleeve sleeve. To do this, on the sleeve pattern, we will build two cut lines. The first line runs perpendicular to the elbow line from the top of the elbow tuck to the hem of the sleeve.

We will construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the eye from the first line to the line of the middle of the sleeve. The resulting value will be set aside along the rim from the middle line to the side of the front cut of the sleeve. The line of the bottom of the sleeve in the area from the front cut to the middle line is divided in half.

We connect the obtained points with a straight line, which will be the second line of the cut.

We cut the sleeve along the constructed lines.

Now we expand our sleeve along the rim in such a way that the expansion is equal to the amount of tuck unmodeling into the armhole of the front and back minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the amount of tuck demodeling on both parts is different, but we subtract 0.5-1 cm from each value. How much to subtract depends on how wide the sleeve needs to be.

We draw up a new eye line with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.

And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.

When modeling a chest tuck, you should know that the figure with big breasted(size 52+) in products with a set-in sleeve, a good fit cannot be achieved without a chest tuck. Therefore, it is better to limit the demodeling of the chest tuck to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of the product without chest and shoulder darts can be obtained not only by modeling the basic design, but also by building such a design right away, with an extension of the armhole, an extension of the front line and an expansion of the shoulder line. But more on that in future posts!

Modern dresses are characterized by the presence of a huge number of new options for finishing and decorating. Designers and seamstresses come up with original ways to use the types and techniques of cutting from past centuries and give life to long-forgotten styles, patterns and techniques.

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The use of darts on a dress is no exception. If earlier they were used as a functional part for support or fitting, now additional seams are also aesthetic in nature, decorating products.

Features and History

In general, a tuck is a special seam that can be different lengths. Shaped on the wrong side for a more fitted silhouette. They are made on different parts of products: on the back, waist, chest, legs. However, the most used type remains the bust, which emphasizes the bust area on women's garments.

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The tucked seams, along with the lines of the armholes and the oval shape of the sleeves, appeared in the Middle Ages. Then techniques were developed for the formation of flat parts (back, front, sleeves), which corresponded to the parameters of individual parts of the physique. These discoveries in the fashion world arose due to the transfer of methods for creating detachable, iron knightly armor to fabric fabrics for tailoring.

Today, darts are no longer something new, but the ways of using them on clothes can be quite original, which determines the increased interest in this detail.

If you sew on your own, then you probably periodically have a question about how to make tucks on a dress or shirt. These nuances of modeling and cutting may require special knowledge, so before creating them, study the relevant literature and practice on extra pieces of fabric.

Shoulder. Formed by joining excess or excess material into the shoulder seam. The size of this tuck will depend on its depth. Such seams are created both in front and behind, while the front options help to diversify the style and make the chest fit more defined.
Side (chest) darts. They are formed due to the fact that excess or excess material is fixed in the side line. This shape allows you to complete the seam at the most protruding point of the chest. This look is classic for tailoring dresses and shirts. This shape of the seam helps only slightly emphasize the curve of the chest.
French. A subspecies of standard side darts, in which excess fabric is formed into a seam on the front of the bodice. The peculiarity of this type is that the seam must be located on the dress at a certain angle. At the same time, its direction from the waist to the chest allows you to achieve a perfect fit to the figure.
At the waist. Characterized by a vertical seam perpendicular to the waist line. There may be several darts in this zone. Paired options look interesting, which also help to visually narrow the waist. It can also be formed from the waist without crossing the central seam. Usually this method is used to create a light fold, drapery on the skirt of the dress.
Coquette (horizontal). The variant is usually used on the chest line or hips parallel to the waist line. The material is stitched horizontally around the entire circumference of the product. The upper tuck is often formed under the lower edge of the armhole, and the lower one along the most convex line of the hips. This technique helps to balance the figure and give it an hourglass-like femininity.
Single vertical tuck. This is a special type that is difficult to attribute to the classical understanding of tucks. It is distinguished by a solid line of stitching that divides the dress into segments. Such a relief seam is obtained by connecting the shoulder and a long vertical tuck from the waist. This method is used for sewing dresses with the so-called "princess lines".

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When forming a tuck seam, some craftsmen unnecessarily highlight the upper point of the tuck. Sometimes this method is appropriate, especially if it matches the style. On the ordinary dresses this technique can make the silhouette rough. If you are not planning a non-standard cut of the dress, then the darts should not be shaped additions. At first, try to use them to form a clear and fitted silhouette. The goal at the first stage is their most inconspicuous execution.

If you are creating a dress according to your own pattern with your own hands, then carefully select the appropriate type of tuck. It should correspond not only to the style and silhouette, but also to be comfortable in execution on a specific material.

You can adjust the seams, make them deeper or convex in the process of sewing and trying on. Also at this stage, it is permissible to change the type of tuck. When modeling the chest version, try to create a seam 1-2 mm lower than the top of the chest so that the tuck does not stick out.

There are also certain nuances in working with dense and transparent fabrics. If you have very thin material, then be sure to finish the darted seam with a double stitch along the edges. It is unacceptable to leave a long tail of the thread, as it will be visible from under the material. Working with dense tissues use special equipment with good needles and tight stitching so that the seams last a long time.

Making a simple tuck

Materials and tools

Textile.
Ruler.
Transparent paper (parchment, tracing paper).
Pencil or chalk.
Threads and needle.
French pins.
Sewing machine.

Progress

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This method is perfect for fitted dresses or skirts. Instead of parchment paper, purchased stencil options are often used, which greatly facilitate the work process. This pattern can be used multiple times.

Making a contour two-ended tuck

A contour or two-ended tuck has no open space on the canvas. In fact, these are two ordinary tucks that meet in the center and form a figure that looks like a rhombus or an oval. They can be both horizontal and vertical. Often such tucked seams can be found on dresses or shirts along the waistline. They form a form-fitting silhouette and maintain the correct fit of the product. This type can be done with the same set of tools as for sewing a simple tuck.

Progress

Fastening darts

For thin and slippery materials, it is better to use a certain sequence of fastening darts.

Progress

After completing the stitch, leave long ends threads (3-5 cm).
To secure this stitch, pull one end of the thread through to form a loop.
Pick up the loop with a needle and pull the end of the other thread to the same side.
Also, the tuck can be completed by forming a simple knot from the two ends of the tuck threads.

There are certain modeling techniques, with the help of which an even flat piece of fabric is changed, repeating the shape of the figure. The difference in girths in different places of the figure is created due to folds, gathers and darts. Thanks to the darts, the material is gathered in such a way that it tightly fits the figure. They are usually done on the elbows, shoulders, hips and chest. The top of the tuck is directed towards the place where the figure is more convex. Before sewing with other parts, the tucks are sewn from the wrong side on the parts after they are cut. The line should end at the top of the tuck and be perfectly even.

Simple paired darts at the waist level of skirts, trousers and dresses serve to reduce the volume in the waist area and create additional volume on the chest and hips. Usually they have a pair of darts at the back and front.

Paired simple darts create a shape similar to the natural shape of the breast. They start from the side seam just below the armpit and end at the top in the most protruding part of the chest.

Shaped paired tucks give the product a fitted silhouette. Starting at the side seam below waist level, running in a long, curved line, culminating at a high point on the chest.

Small simple folds or darts form a bulge for bending the elbow joint on the sleeves of coats and jackets, allowing free movement of the arm in narrow sleeves.

Most often they are done at waist level. They are very similar to simple darts, they are sewn from the wide end to half of their length.

Paired simple tucks with two vertices. They are also called fitting. These darts are made on clothes without a cut-off waist to fit the material at the waist and hips. One vertex is located on the same level with the hips, the other is on the same level with the chest. The depth of the central part of the tuck regulates the volume of the waist.

How to make simple darts

Not complex tucks with one vertex in the shape of a triangle. They have a wide base at the seam line and the top is located at the place of the largest convexity of the figure. Small changes in the depth of the tuck are possible by transferring the stitch lines. If you change the size of the tuck, the dimensions of the corresponding parts of the pattern also change.

Pin the pattern and fabric with pins. Do not forget to follow the direction of the shared thread. Transfer the tuck markings to the fabric. Remove the pattern.
Fold the fabric right side inward in the center of the tuck, lining up the marking lines. Baste. Before removing the basting, check how the tuck fits the figure.
Stitch the tuck, starting at the wider end and working towards the top. Secure the seam with a few reverse stitches.
From the inside, iron the tuck on both sides. Smooth the tuck on one side, first from the wrong side, then from front side. Horizontal darts are smoothed down, and vertical ones are smoothed to the center. At the top, smooth out all the slightest wrinkles.

Cut the laid tuck fabric down the center, 1.5 cm short of the top. Lay out the fabric on 2 sides and smooth. Press 1.5 cm from the tip of the tuck over the stitching.

French are called elongated, often curved paired darts, creating a certain style, with a fitted silhouette. These tucks are made only in front on a solid part or shelf of the product. Darts lead from the side seam at the waist or hips to the top at the most convex point of the chest. Since these darts are wider than usual, the laid fabric must be cut or cut before stitching, otherwise the darts will not lie flat and the marking lines will not match. Sometimes the central part of the darts is completely cut out.

Transfer the tuck markings from the paper pattern to the fabric with tailor's chalk or any other method. In the example shown, the central part of the tuck is cut out, so there is no cut line. Remove the pattern.
With the front side inward, align the marked lines of the tuck. If necessary, gently press or stretch one side of the darts with an iron to fit the other. Chip and baste along the line of the future line. Check the alignment of the lines and remove the basting.
Sew on the machine from the side cut to the top of the tuck. Secure the stitching with 2-3 stitches in reverse.
Pull out the snares. Then finish the edges with a zigzag stitch on each side of the tuck. Iron along the seam, then spread the fabric on 2 sides and iron again.

These darts have 2 acute-angled peaks on both sides, and the widest part is its center. The upper peak lies at the level of the chest, and the lower peak lies at the line of the hips. With contour darts, it is easy to remove excess width at the waist, while the lines of the side seams do not shift.

Pin the pattern and fabric with pins, transfer the markings of the tuck with snares. Remove the paper pattern.
Right side inward, fold the tuck along the middle line. Align the marking lines, check the symmetry of the tucks, chip and baste. Remove pins.