Knitted toy lips. Crochet toys for beginners. Small crochet toys: patterns. Knitted toys from Alan Dart
The amigurumi technique came to us from Japan. The main features of toys related to this technique:
- Tight knitting with Columns Without a crochet or simply RLS. In this case, the columns must be knitted clinging to both halves of the loop of the previous row. This results in a dense and even fabric.
- All (almost) details are knitted in a spiral, starting from the "magic ring". By adding or subtracting the number of columns in the rows, you can get oblong legs or round heads or even triangular ears.
You will need
1. Yarn of the right colors
2. Hook suitable for yarn size
3. Scissors
4. Thick needle
5. Filler for toys (sintepuh, holofiber, etc.)
Magic ring amigurumi
The basis and beginning of knitting any toy.
Usually the first row consists of 6 loops tied around a ring of yarn. The ring is tightened and the first row of 6 loops is obtained (the future crown of the head, for example).
Further, for the classic circle, 6 additional columns are usually added in each row.
That is, the usual head of an amigurumi toy is a multiple of 6 scheme:
1 row - 6 loops
2 row - 12 sc (knit 2 stitches in each loop of the previous row)
3rd row - 18 sc (knit 2 stitches in every second stitch of the previous row)
4th row - 24 sc (knit 2 stitches in every third stitch of the previous row)
and so on: 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60... depending on what size you need.
How to add and subtract the number of columns in a row when crocheting toys
The top row is an increase in columns. We knit two columns with a crochet in one lower loop.
Bottom row - decreasing columns. We cling the thread sequentially to the two lower loops of the previous row and knit one with a column.
How to knit muzzles, ears and paws, as well as how to change the color of the thread and a few more tips, read below, under the tag:
The distribution of surplus columns in a circle
With a classic increase of 6 columns per row, 6 rays are gradually formed in the rows (columns are visible that are knitted two in one loop). Knitting takes the form of a hexagon. If you are knitting a round head, then at some point you need to stop adding and knit several rows without increases. In this case, the six corners will smooth out by themselves.
If you knit a flat circle (a napkin or an elephant's ear, for example), then you need to shift the place of the double columns in each subsequent row so that they are not clearly above each other. Then the circle turns out to be more even, without corners. When I knit toys, I even like the appearance of 6 stitches on the head, so I don’t move these double stitches relative to each other. And it's easier to count loops.
The photo above shows the differences:
1. We see a circle of amigurumi from three rows: 6, 12 and 18 RLS.
2. The fourth row of 24 RLS is connected, and hexagonality is noticeable.
3. The fourth row 24 RLS is associated with mixing relative to the third row 18 RLS. There is no hexagon, a circle of a more regular shape.
4. In the last photo, the fourth row is knitted without increments relative to the third row, that is, again 18 RLS. And you can see how immediately the knitting is bent turning into a "cup". And at the same time, the hexagonal shape immediately disappears. This is the beginning of the future head, for example.
Both of these options involve the distribution of additional columns evenly around the circumference of the row. This is true if we want to get a round head, like a bunny.
If the surplus columns are grouped next to each other, then you can get different options for bends. For example, in order to tie a muzzle for Peppa pig, all the additional columns were located at the bottom (where the mouth is).
Knitting ears and muzzles in amigurumi animals
The number of columns that are added in each new row also matters.
The classic pattern for knitting a spherical shape is, as I said above, 6 additional columns in each row (or vice versa, a decrease by 6 columns in each row).
But other options are also possible. The magic ring can start with 4 loops, and the increase in the row can be 2 columns, and 4, and 3 and 8 ... It all depends on how smoothly or sharply it is necessary to increase the circle from row to row .
The round ear of the Bear is knitted according to the classical pattern: 6, 12, 18 and another row of 18 without an increase. Increase in each row by 6 columns
The sharp eye of the Fox or the Wolf is knitted: 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 3 more rows of 12 columns without increments. The increase in each row is only 2 columns.
The cat's triangular eye is knitted: 4, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18. Increase after the first row 2 columns, and in subsequent rows 3 columns.
The muzzle with the nose is knitted 6.6 in black without increments, and then immediately 12, 18 in gray. Thus, a small black nose stands out.
There are many options....
How to change the color of the thread when crocheting toys
Two options for changing the thread (top row and bottom row) give us a different appearance of the place where the color change occurred in the knitting fabric.
Depending on the goals, you can use both options, getting a different appearance of the toy. For example like this:
How the legs and body of the toy are knitted in one piece
The first leg is knitted separately. Knitting of the second leg ends with air loops. Next, the air loops are attached to the first separate leg and the whole structure is knitted in a place in a circle, gradually turning into the body of a toy. The legs and body after this method of knitting are a single whole.
Depending on the number of air loops between the legs, you will get a different setting of the legs of the toy (away or closer to each other).
A few more little tricks
- Finishing the knitting of each detail, I leave a long thread of about 30-40 centimeters, without cutting it immediately after the knot. It is with it that I will then sew the parts to each other. Thus, it turns out firmly and neatly.
- It is convenient to first fold the ears, tails, hands at the top into a flat segment and sew it, and then sew it to the body or head.
- It is better not to stuff the hands (front paws) tightly with filler to the top, leave empty space inside. Then they will not stick out to the sides, but will hang down naturally.
- Legs tied together with the body (especially long ones) are sometimes inconvenient to fill with filler through the neck. It is possible, having connected both legs and the lower part of the body, first to fill the legs with filler, and then finish the body and stuff it.
Good luck to you!!!
When we crochet amigurumi toys, it is very important to knit each loop extremely carefully, avoiding holes through which. Any marriage will be in plain sight and on a small toy it will simply "crawl into the eyes."
Everything must be knitted exactly according to the scheme or description. When crocheting small toys (amigurumi), there are no trifles.
But still, one of the most important operations when crocheting animal toys is the design of the muzzle. After all, we need to give certain character traits to the whole appearance of our cute amigurushka.
The expression of the muzzle should be consistent with our idea. Cheerful, mischievous, serious or frowning our teddy bear or kitten will turn out largely depends on what shape of the nose we make for him.
There are many different ways to make the nose of an amigurumi animal: threads, beads, plastic store parts. We offer the easiest and fastest way: embroider the nose of a crocheted toy: a bear, a bunny, a hamster, a kitten or a cat, even for a mouse or a fox.
Threads need to be taken non-shedding and, if possible, shiny, silky. Let the nose look wet. It will be a small amigurushka or a larger crocheted toy - this method is suitable for all do-it-yourself toys.
How to quickly and easily embroider a nose
We insert the needle under the base of the head, piercing the head through and bring it straight to the center of the nose.
We stretch the thread and leave a tail that will allow you to tie together and fasten all the threads at the end of the nose embroidery.
Then we pierce straight down, making a small vertical stitch and bring the needle out, to the point where, according to the plan, the mouth should begin. Stitches need to be laid tight, but not overtightened.
Then we simply insert the needle under the vertical stitch of the spout that we made earlier and tighten the stitch that will depict the line of the mouth on the face of our toy.
Then pierce the needle at the point where the mouth ends and bring it to the point where the nose begins.
We put the stitches tight enough so as not to faldo, but do not overtighten so as not to distort the shape of the muzzle.
Alternatively, you can just make a straight line, without forming the mouth with an angle. But it's not as cute as a corner of the mouth. Although sometimes it may be necessary. For example, if we have a solid and
Now let's start embroidering the spout itself. To do this, we make horizontal stitches, each time inserting and withdrawing the needle through the same hole. Apply as many stitches as required to make the nose bulge and pretty. At the same time, we try to make the stitches with the same tension.
We impose as many stitches as we need to give the muzzle the intended character.
It remains to bring the thread with which we embroidered the spout to where we started work. Fasten both ends of the thread and hide all the tails inside the head.
Please note that threads for nose embroidery are best suited for smooth and silky. This will add vitality to our crochet toy.
We watch a video where the embroidery of the spout is shown in the most detailed way.
Paying attention to the little things
At the same time, keep in mind that a sufficiently large and more convex nose makes the expression of the muzzle of a crocheted toy sweeter and kinder. Conversely, a thin nose will give rapacity and cunning. However, you must see for yourself - as you deem sufficient, stop making stitches for the spout.
Eyes can be embroidered using the same principle of stitches in the same holes, or you can pick up beads. Or buy ready-made and glue them firmly.
It is best to embroider the nose and decorate the muzzle before assembling the amigurumi. Only after the head is finished (ears, eyes, mouth and nose are sewn on), you can crochet all the details of our toy.
So all the work will be done faster and easier, and the amigurushka will look cleaner and neater. And not shabby, like after a battle or a good beating.
We crochet amigurumi toys without neglecting any details. How successful our amigurushka animal will turn out depends on them. Successful and light loops, dear craftswomen!
Good afternoon, dear needlewomen! We are glad to present you a description of the process of crocheting a pig using the amigurumi technique. This amazingly beautiful toy will be a great addition to your collection or a great gift for children and even adults!
What will be required in order to make a crochet pig?
So, we need:
- Pink yarn.
- A small amount of felt reddish edema.
- Toy eyes for the future piglet.
- Crochet, needle, scissors.
- Filler for toys.
Sign up and you'll be the first to know about new tutorials!
How to tie the head and body of our future piglet?
First row of knitting: 6 SINGLE COLLAR in amigurumi ring (6)
Second row: 6P (12)
Third row: (1 SINGLE COLUMN, 1 increase) - 6 times (18)
Fourth row: (2 single crochet, 1 increase) - 6 times (24)
Fifth row: (3 SINGLE COLUMNS, 1 increase) - 6 times (30)
Sixth row: (1 SINGLE COLUMN, 1 increase) - 15 times (45)
Row 7-15: 45 SINGLE (45) 16: 6P, 6 SINGLE, 6 P, 27 SINGLE (57)
Seventeenth-eighteenth row: 57 SINGLE COLUMN (57)
Nineteenth row: 30 SINGLE COLUMN, (7 SINGLE COLUMN, 1U) - 3 times (54)
Twentieth row: (7 SINGLE COLUMN, 1 Decrease) - 6 times (48)
Twenty-first row: (4 SINGLE COLUMN, 1 Decrease) - 8 times (40)
Twenty-second row: (3 SINGLE COLUMN, 1 Decrease) - 8 times (32)
Row 23: 32 SINGLE (32)
Twenty-fourth row: (2 SINGLE COLUMN, 1U) - 8 times (24)
Twenty-fifth row: (2 SINGLE COLUMN, 1U) - 6 times (18)
Row 26: 18 SINGLE (18)
28th - 30th row of knitting: 36 SINGLE COLUMN (36)
Thirty-first row of knitting: (5 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 6 times (42)
Thirty-second - fortieth row: 42 SINGLE COLUMN (42)
35: (5 SINGLE COLUMN, 1Y) - 6 times (36)
36: 36SINGLE CAP (36)
37: (4 SINGLE COLUMN, 1Y) - 6 times (30)
38: (3 SINGLE COLUMN, 1Y) - 6 times (24)
39: (2 SINGLE COLUMN, 1Y) - 6 times (18) begin to fill the torso.
40: (1 SINGLE, 1Y) - 6 times (12) 41: (1 SINGLE, 1Y) - 3 times (8) fill the part more if necessary.
42: two reductions. Finish knitting. Pull the hole with a needle, hide the thread.
How to tie a nickel of our future piglet?
2: 3ST SINGLE in first st, 2ST SINGLE, 3ST in next st, 2ST (10)
3: (1 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 5 times (15)
4: 2ST SINGLE, 1P, 3ST, in next st, 5ST, 3ST in next st, 1P, 4ST (21)
5: 21 SINGLE COLLAR behind the back wall of the buttonhole (21)
6-7: 21 SINGLE COLLAR (21) 1cc (JOIN COLUMN) and finish knitting.
Leave a long thread for sewing. Embroider the nostrils before sewing the patch to the head. Sew most of the patch to the head, then stuff it and sew the rest.
How to tie a pig's mouth?
1: 6SINGLE COLLAR into the amigurumi ring (6) Do not join the ring.
2: Ch 1, turn piece and work (1 SINGLE COLLAR, 1 R) - 3 times (9) Finish knitting, leaving a long thread for sewing on. Glue a small piece of red felt to the center of the mouth. Sew the mouth to the head.
How to tie the ears of the future piglet?
1: 6SINGLE crochet in amigurumi ring (6)
2: (1 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 3 times (9)
3: 9SINGLE CAP (9)
4: (2 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 3 times (12)
5: 12SINGLE CAP (12)
6: (3 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 3 times (15)
7: (4 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 3 times (18)
8-9: 18 SINGLE COLLAR (18) 1cc (JOIN COLUMN) and finish knitting. Leave a long thread for sewing.
How to tie the hands of a pig?
1: 6SINGLE CAP (6)
3: (3 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 3 times (15)
4-6: 15SINGLE CAP (15)
7: 3Y, 9SINGLE COLUMN (12)
8: 2Y, 8SINGLE (10)
9-16: 10 SINGLE COLLAR (10) 17: 5 SS (JOIN) N, 1 SS (JOIN) and finish knitting, leaving a long thread for sewing. Fill your hands.
How to tie the legs of a pig?
1: 6SINGLE crochet in amigurumi ring (6)
3: (1 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 6 times (18)
4: (2 SINGLE COLUMN, 1P) - 6 times (24)
5-7: 24SINGLE CAP (24)
8: (1Y, 1 SINGLE COLUMN) - 6 times, 6 SINGLE COLUMN (18)
9: (1Y, 1 SINGLE COLUMN) - 4 times, 6 SINGLE COLUMN (14)
10: (5 SINGLE COLUMN, 1Y) - 2 times (12)
11-22: 12 SINGLE COLLAR (12) 1cc (JOIN COLUMN) and finish knitting, leaving a long thread for sewing on. Fill your legs.
How to tie the tail of our future piglet?
First row of knitting: a chain of sixteen stitches (16)
Second row of knitting: (1 SINGLE COLUMN, 1 decrease) - 5 times (10) Finish knitting, leaving a long thread for sewing. Make a tightening for the eyes between the 11th and 12th rows of the head, 6 or 7 loops between the eyes. Attach the eyes and sew all the details.
Video master class: “MK Crochet piglets, part 1”
Video master class: “MK Crochet piglets, part 2”
In contact with
How do you like this crochet crocheted frog? :) This is not just a toy! This is a frog - a needle bed! I bring to your attention a master class on knitting such beauty ...
... In a fabulous swamp, there lived a frog ... or rather, lived - was :) it was an enchanted prince ... And then one day, a beautiful princess, seeing a handsome green man and having read fairy tales before that, kissed him ... and she herself turned into a frog :)
We will not kiss the reptile, but rather we will crochet the prince and turn it into a needle bed. Let the frog not only please our eyes with its beauty, but bring practical benefits ...
And the description of Anna Bazhenova will help us to connect this needle bed. This is Anechka's second work on the blog. The first was .
Crochet knitted frog - master class
To knit a needle bed - a frog you will need:
- Yarn - "Children's novelty" (Pekhorka) - 100% acrylic, (200m / 50g.) Two colors: exotic and turquoise.
- Hook #2, #3.
- Chenille wire in color for paws 2 pcs. 30cm long, 6mm thick.
- 2 beads "cat's eye" with a diameter of 10mm,
- eyelashes for toys
- sequins flowers, (or beads flowers or silk roses, etc.),
- gold braid (a little bit for the crown),
- strong adhesive
- filler, for example, synthetic winterizer
How to crochet a frog
Head and body, knit from the crown :) Exotic yarn (green), hook number 2
6 sc in the amigurumi ring (sliding loop).
1 row - 6 increments, i.e. 2 single crochets (SC) knitted in one loop = 12
2 row - (1СБН + increase) 6 times = 18
3rd row - (2SC + increase) 6 times = 24
4 row - (3СБН + increase) 6 times = 30.
5 row - (4СБН + increase) 6 times = 36
6 row - (5СБН + increase) 6 times = 42
7-9 rows - no change = 42
10th row - (5СБН + decrease, i.e. we make one single crochet) 6 times = 36
11 row - (4СБН + decrease) 6 times = 30
12 row - (3СБН + decrease) 6 times = 24
At this stage, we stuff the head with a synthetic winterizer or other filler, then we stuff it ...
13 row - (2СБН + decrease) 6 times = 18
14th row - (1SC + decrease) 6 times = 12
15 row - no change = 12
16 row - (1СБН + increase) 6 times = 18
17 row - unchanged = 18
18 row - (2SC + increase) 6 times = 24
19 row - unchanged = 24
20 row - (1СБН + increase) 6 times = 30
21 row - no change = 30
22 row - (4СБН + increase) 6 times = 36
23 - 27 row - unchanged = 36
28 row - (4СБН + decrease) 6 times = 30
29 row - (3СБН + decrease) 6 times = 24
30 row - (2SBN + decrease) 6 times = 18
31 row - (1СБН + decrease) 6 times = 12
32 row - 6 decreases = 6
The body is stuffed in the process of knitting.
We close the loops (I close with decreases, someone collects on a thread), fasten the thread, hide the tip inside the knitting.
Our prince - the frog is almost ready, it remains to make a mouth, tie the eyelids and attach the handles with legs
Making a mouth
We find the 8th row on the head and knit half-columns with a crochet directly on the knitted fabric according to the scheme. 
After knitting the mouth, we embroider a smile inside it with a red thread (mulina, iris or other red thread remnants), after which you can lower the upper lip down and fold your mouth more beautifully with your fingers.
Frog eyelids (two parts)
6 sc in the amigurumi ring,
1 row - 6 increments = 12
2 row - no change = 12
We fix the thread. We also knit the second eyelid.
We count 3 rows upwards from the upper lip and sew the eyelids symmetrically on the fourth row. Sew with sewing threads in color.
We coat the beads with half glue and put them into the eye sockets, pressing tightly, you can immediately glue the eyelashes, lightly pressing them with a toothpick in the recess at the border of the eye and eyelid.
A small piece of gold braid (you can take a ready-made pendant - a crown or a cap for a bead, of a suitable size and shape, or make a crown in some other way) is folded into a tube, sewn with sewing threads and carefully sewn in the center of the crown. We pull the chenille wire gently through the body of the frog at shoulder level and in the lower part of the body (it is better to bend the tip of the wire beforehand so that it does not cling and does not get stuck). If there is no chenille, you can take any flexible wire. After the wire is pulled, we sculpt symmetrical handles and legs from it. If the wire is ordinary, we coat the finished paws with glue and wrap them with green threads.
(Note. If you have a simple wire wrapped with yarn, then it is more convenient to insert it into the body of the toy in the process of knitting it)
So it turned out a crocheted crocheted frog, or rather, the Prince is a frog, it remains to seat him on a swamp hummock 
Crochet a tussock - a throne for a prince
Pillow - a bump on which a crochet knitted frog will sit consists of two parts: upper and lower
Top. Hook number 3. Yarn - turquoise (blue)
Then we knit 7 rows without changes = 54. The top is ready.
We add the details. The top and bottom are inside out, right side out and we connect the loop into the loop with single crochets, in the process we fill the pillow with filler. Having connected, without tearing off the thread, we tie the seam with shells, () 
We pull the finished pillow with a few stitches from the center of the bottom to the center of the upper part. This is done for the stability of the needle bar and so that the frog sits comfortably in the hole.
We plant the frog in the center of the pads and sew to it in a circle with sewing threads. We bend the legs, we also sew the feet at the bend to the pad with a few stitches. We give all the limbs the final shape.
I glued the flower to the right paw with strong fixation glue.
I attached a pendant - a dragonfly - to the frog's neck, and handed him a beautiful flower, gluing it to his right foot with strong fixation glue. Steal your green handsome man with "jewels" - a prince after all!
The pillow can be decorated at will with flowers, lace or satin or beads or sequins, it all depends on your imagination and taste.
The main thing to remember is that the best is the enemy of the good, and if there are too many decorations, there will be nowhere to stick needles! And we initially conceived our knitted frog as a needle bed!
Needle bed frog prince - crocheted frog 
The ever hungry green monster Om Nyam in a short time became a favorite of children and adults. And this is not surprising, because this baby causes only positive emotions. And for those who decide to have such a creature at home, we offer crochet toy master class. We will tie not only Om Nom, but also a candy for him (how could it be without it?). All explanations are accompanied by photographs, the description of knitting is very detailed, so you can knit a toy beginners. You can also try creating Om Nom with your children.
Tools and materials for knitting Om Nom:
- Hook number 3.
- Yarn 4 colors: green, white, black, red. The thickness of the yarn depends on the hook. In the master class, the toy was knitted from the "Children's Novelty" yarn.
- Filler for soft toys.
- Needles, threads for sewing.
- Scissors.
We start knitting Amya Nyama from the torso. The body consists of two halves. The half, in turn, is also assembled from 2 parts. Let's start knitting the upper part.
2 row:(1 increase) x 6 times (12 loops in a row). For those who are just starting to knit, I will explain this entry: we repeat everything that is indicated in parentheses the required number of times, in this case we knit an increase in each of the six loops of the previous time. In total, there are 12 loops in a row.
3 row: we knit 12 sc for the back wall (see photo).
4 row: 12 sc, but we knit them in the usual way, for both loops.
5 row:(2 sc, 1 decrease) x 3 times (9).
6-7 rows: 9 sb.
8 row:(2 sc, 1 increase) x 3 times (12).
9 row:
10 row:
11 row:
12 row:
13 row:
14 row:
15 row:
16-21 rows:
Now we start knitting the lower half of the torso. It is worked in much the same way as the top, but without the antennae.
1 row:
2 row:(1 increase) x 6 times (12).
3 row:(1 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (18).
4 row:(2 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (24).
5 row:(3 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (30).
6 row:(4 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (36).
7 row:(5 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (42).
8 row:(6 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (48).
9 row:(7 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (54).
10-15 rows: 54 sc. We complete the knitting of the part by knitting the connecting column into the last loop.
Now we will knit two components for the mouth. In fact, these are very simple parts - just circles, one of which (upper) is completely made of green yarn, the other (lower) is made of green and red yarn.
1 row: We collect 2 v.p. (air loops), we knit 6 sc (single crochet) in the second loop from the hook.
2 row:(1 increase) x 6 times (12).
3 row:(1 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (18).
4 row:(2 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (24).
5 row:(3 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (30).
6 row:(4 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (36).
7 row:(5 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (42).
8 row:(6 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (48).
9 row:(7 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (54).
We begin to knit one of the details with red yarn, and we knit the last two rows with green. we finish knitting parts with a connecting column.
Eye knitting:
For knitting eyes, we need white and black yarn.
We knit with yarn black color(you need to connect two parts):
1 row: We collect 2 v.p. (air loops), we knit 6 sc (single crochet) in the second loop from the hook.
2 row:(1 increase) x 6 times (12).
We knit with yarn white color(you need to connect two parts):
1 row: We collect 2 v.p. (air loops), we knit 6 sc (single crochet) in the second loop from the hook.
2 row:(1 increase) x 6 times (12).
3 row:(1 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (18).
4 row:(2 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (24).
Knitting paws (4 parts):
1 row: We collect 2 v.p. (air loops), we knit 6 sc (single crochet) in the second loop from the hook.
2 row:(1 increase) x 6 times (12).
3 row:(1 sc, 1 increase) x 6 times (18).
4-6 rows: 18 sbn, connecting column in the last loop.
Knitting teeth (4 pieces.)
We collect 3 ch on the hook. Of these, the last loop is for lifting the next row. We unfold the knitting, knit 2 sc. We turn the knitting again, we knit 1 ch. for lifting, then the connecting column into the second loop from the hook.
Knitting tongue.
We knit the tongue with red yarn. We need to crochet an oval. We will knit according to the standard oval knitting pattern:
The diagram shows double crochets, but if you want Om Nom's tongue to be a little narrower, they can be replaced with double crochets. I knitted with double crochets.
It is more convenient to sew the parts of the toy using ordinary sewing threads and a needle. The toy is more accurate.
Candy knitting:
At the heart of the candy is again a crocheted circle. It's simple. The main difficulty lies in the alternation of colors - white and red. In order to make it clear how to alternate colors, a diagram is presented below. The circles on it indicate the columns without a crochet.
We collect 2 ch on the hook. and in the second loop from the hook we knit 6 sc, alternating colors. We knit in a spiral, without knitting air loops for lifting at the beginning of each row. Now let's move on to knitting. second row. Over the loops of white we knit increases in white, over red - in red. It turns out that in each loop of the previous row I was knitted 2 sbn in the corresponding color.
3 row: let's say a row begins with two white loops. We knit 1 sbn + 2 sbn in one loop (i.e. increase) in white. Then we change the color of the yarn and knit 1 sc + 1 increase over the two red loops of the previous row. And so on to the end of the row.
In order for the transition from one color of yarn to another to be imperceptible, it is necessary to knit the last sc of one color with the yarn of the next. Pay attention to the photo below:
It is necessary to connect two identical parts, and then sew them.
Here we are crocheted Om Nom. Now it's time for a photo shoot!
Happy knitting! With best wishes in creativity, the author of the toy is Anna Lavrentyeva.
This master class was written specifically for the site, so copying the entire material is FORBIDDEN!
When partially copying, be sure to place a link to the source.
