It is better to cover the facades with oil or varnish. What to choose for wood processing – oil or varnish? Hybrid oil-wax formulations

When purchasing a natural wooden floor covering, the consumer has a logical question: what is better: a parquet board coated with oil or varnish?

Both oil and varnish are used to cover parquet boards made of natural wood, mainly for one single purpose: to protect the floor covering from the harmful effects of UV rays, moisture, dirt, insects and microorganisms in order to extend its service life. Another goal is to give the product a unique design, shade and appearance.

However, what ultimately turns out to be more practical, cheaper, more profitable and more interesting based on a combination of factors - this is what we have to find out.

Eco-friendly/natural/safe

Of course, it is impossible to call the varnish coating on a parquet board absolutely natural and safe: the varnish may contain polymers, resins, and solvents, which is not in favor of its environmental friendliness. The varnish coating may have an odor and cause individual allergic reactions, although this is rare, but this possibility remains. Oil in this sense is a much more environmentally friendly and safe product to use.

Caring for parquet boards

Caring for varnished parquet boards is undoubtedly easier: you practically don’t have to do anything, just wipe off the dust in a timely manner and remove stains with a slightly damp cloth.

Oil is a completely different story. Firstly, you should only care for the oil coating using special products. Secondly, you will have to do this more often, because the oil coating absorbs dirt more and attracts dust. Thirdly, you will also have to spend more time on this.

Finally, the oil coating itself requires periodic renewal, that is, the parquet board will have to be re-coated with oil from time to time in order to restore and protect the natural wood from drying out.

Winner in the category: varnish.

Restoration

If part of the coating wears out (which happens, for example, in places where heavy furniture stands or has been frequently moved), it is easier to restore a board coated with colorless (natural) oil. It is this that easily lends itself to local restoration, unlike parquet boards coated with varnish or colored oil.

A varnished parquet floor would have to be sanded and varnished entirely, which is quite difficult and energy-consuming. The same can be said about colored oil coating: it will be extremely difficult to quietly restore a small area with a colored oil coating, since it is extremely difficult to choose the right shade, which also changes over time during the use of the floor covering.

Winner in the category: oil.

Purchase price

The price of varnished parquet boards starts from ±1,500 rubles per sq. m. m. The cost of oil-coated parquet boards depends on the manufacturer, but usually amounts to at least 1,756 rubles per sq. m. m, on average the price for a parquet board coated with natural oil fluctuates around 3,000 rubles per sq. m. m.

Winner in the category: varnish.

Service price

It is better to care for both varnish and oil-based coatings on parquet boards using detergents specially designed for this purpose for the care of natural wood flooring. However, oiled parquet boards will require additional financial investments for intensive care, renewal and protection from drying out.

Winner in the category: varnish.

You need to understand the fundamental difference between varnish and oil coating on a parquet board: varnish creates a specific protective film on the surface of the wood, preventing the harmful effects of external factors (water, sun), while oil completely saturates the wood without creating a film on its surface, making it durable and wear-resistant.

However, a wooden floor under varnish is less stable. The surface layer and other layers in a varnished parquet board are not on equal terms with such natural factors as humidity and air temperature in the room, as a result of which deformations and cracks may occur during the operation of the floor covering.

Internal tension, swelling and drying out of wood are also typical for parquet boards under oil during climate change, but they behave more predictably, since all of its layers are in the same position and contain the same volume of moisture.

In other words, the oil penetrates deep into the pores of the wood, without clogging them and leaving the wood to “breathe,” while UV varnish seals the wood in the outer layer, disrupting its natural moisture balance. In the first case, the operational load is borne by the entire tree, evenly taking all the blows, and in the second case, the entire load falls on the varnish surface layer, creating an imbalance of moisture and opening the door to deformations and cracks under unfavorable climatic conditions.

Here, however, it is worth making an allowance that an oil-coated parquet board can also behave this way if it uses UV oil. Thus, when using a UV-curable coating, be it oil or varnish, it does not have time to penetrate deep into the pores of the wood, quickly hardening and forming a protective layer on the surface of the board.

Winner in the category: oil.

Parquet board: oil or varnish - what to choose?

As can be seen from the comparison, oiled parquet boards and varnished parquet boards scored the same number of points (3:3), so both coatings are still equally popular among consumers. However, in some cases, oil is preferable, and in others, varnish is preferable.

Choose varnished parquet boards if:

you absolutely do not want to spend a lot of time cleaning;
you are looking for the best option in terms of price and quality (or the cheapest);
you are not ready to invest a lot of time and money in parquet maintenance;
you can create stable humidity and air temperature in the room.

Choose oiled parquet boards if:

the issue of environmental friendliness is of fundamental importance to you;
Are you looking for a durable and stable floor covering?
you are not afraid of the need to care for the coating;
you choose flooring for a commercial space, which will be regularly maintained by a cleaning company (this will help maintain the parquet in its original form, constantly updating it);
there is a high risk of temperature and humidity changes in the room;
it is made from hard exotic wood with a high content of natural oily substances in its structure, which makes varnishing difficult (wenge, backout).

To prevent the wood from deteriorating and losing its appearance over time, it is necessary to use wood oil or wax. Their properties suggest protection from external influences.

Wax is used not only in medicine, cosmetology, but also in industry. Beeswax consists of esters, fatty acids, hydrocarbons, which have good water-repellent properties. When heated to +20 degrees, the density of the substance decreases. Its color does not affect the properties.

Best qualities of wax:

fire resistance;
wood strengthening;
protection from moisture;
improving the appearance of the material;
moisture removal;
brilliant appearance.

You can make a solution for treating wood with wax yourself or buy a ready-made product in the store.

Previously, wax dissolved in turpentine was used as a processing composition. This is a reliable remedy, but it has a serious drawback - turpentine smells unpleasant. Its smell finally disappears after about two years.

After the material is treated with wax, the appearance is transformed, minor scratches are erased, and a pristine shine appears.

Wax impregnation for wood is an important element, as it helps prevent rotting, burning and fungal formations. Wax is considered the best means of protection against chemical and other influences on wood. Thanks to its protective properties, the tree does not lose its appearance and retains its structure and pattern for a long time. The surface becomes velvety and pleasant to the touch.

Waxing materials

Waxing wood is considered one of the best ways to treat surfaces. Such protection is quite reliable and inexpensive. You can find colored wax on sale that allows you to add the desired color to the wood. Any wood can be impregnated with wax. For high-quality wood processing you need to purchase:

sandpaper;
wax;
solvent;
hard brush;
cloth;
brush.

Wood fibers dry out over time, so this impregnation will perfectly preserve the product and prevent external factors from affecting it.

Waxing process

How to treat wood with wax? Here are the detailed instructions:

It is necessary to get rid of the old coating by removing the residue with a solvent, and then get rid of the remaining solvent using warm water. If large pieces of old varnish remain, you need to remove them using a carpenter's knife and sand them with sandpaper. To get rid of varnish from the cracks, you need to walk over the surface to be treated several times with a stiff brush. After all procedures, the surface will become even and smooth, ready for waxing.
Be sure to apply wax only to a dry surface using a special cloth. First, you need to treat a flat surface, and then move on to cracks, corners and other elements. You can use a brush. Correct impregnation is carried out along the fibers.
After the process is completed, you need to give it an hour to dry. When the wax is completely absorbed, remove the excess with a rag. It is necessary to ensure that the wax penetrates into all crevices and hard-to-reach areas. This will give strength and durability. To get the shine effect, the wood needs to be processed twice. If a film begins to form, use a stiff brush.

It should be remembered that the work must be done carefully so as not to damage the product. Impregnation will allow the wood to sparkle in a new way, protect it from external factors, and add shine.

The waxing process itself does not require special knowledge, however, the algorithm of actions must be followed, otherwise the effect will not be noticed. It is almost impossible to damage furniture using this method. Waxing wood not only preserves its properties for a long time, but also gives it the appropriate appearance. External factors have less impact on its integrity, which allows you not to worry about the service life of the product.

In rare cases, shellac varnish is added to the wax coating. It is able to consolidate the result and add shine.

Any wooden surface needs protection. To preserve its appearance for a long time, the furniture is covered with wax or solutions that contain it. If you want to not only protect your furniture, but also give it a different shade, use colored wax.

You should remember the properties of wax when heated. High temperatures have a detrimental effect on waxed furniture. Traces from an ordinary mug will have to be removed by repeated waxing and polishing. You should not use this method of caring for furniture located in the kitchen. Even an ordinary hot mug can harm and ruin the table. Only if you take precautions can you extend the life of such a coating. Otherwise, the original appearance will be lost.

It is best to use such furniture in a bedroom, room or bathhouse. Wood impregnated with a special composition strengthens and becomes resistant to external conditions. This allows the furniture to last for a very long time. In order for the decor to please for many years, it is necessary to constantly monitor its condition and put it in order.

You should avoid contact with alcohol and elevated temperatures, and also try not to leave scratches, as you will have to perform the waxing procedure again.

Application of wax mastic

Wax mastic is applied not only to furniture, but also to parquet floors. It should be sanded vertically relative to the grain. There are several types of impregnation mixtures:

pasty;
creamy;
oily.

In order for the furniture to absorb the wax as much as possible, you need to properly prepare the surface. Using a stiff brush allows you to clean all the crevices so that waxing gives the desired effect. Sanding is necessary to obtain a uniform and smooth surface.

Wax mastic does not mask stains or defects. To do this, it is necessary to apply wax treatment with a special bleach. The price category of the wax coating varies depending on the manufacturer and the presence of additives. A brush is the main tool for such woodworking. The cloth is used for semi-liquid type.

Hard wax is diluted with plain water. If desired, you can use colored wax. Apply carefully in a thin layer. An hour is enough for complete absorption, after which the excess is removed. After these procedures, the wood will have a matte texture.

What is the difference between wax and oil?

For treating wood with wax, there is both wax paste and linseed oil with wax. To be able to differentiate between them, you need to understand how both of these remedies work. After application, the oil immediately saturates the material, and wood wax forms a film, thanks to which it protects the product from abrasion and damage.

Wax with linseed oil helps prevent wood from drying out and rotting. If the material needs to be protected, then you need to choose wood wax. If the furniture is prepared for use outside the home, then oil-wax for wood is better. Waxing is the most reliable method of protecting a wooden surface. Inexpensiveness allows anyone who has a wooden floor to use this method.

On video: how to prepare wax with linseed oil

Wax impregnation is distinguished by its environmental friendliness, safety and water-repellent properties. If circumstances require, you can change the shades or the entire color of the coating.

What is important to know?

Wood mastic can be used for both interior and exterior work. Wax and wood oil are not acceptable where there is a stove or stove nearby. Wood processing involves the use of elements such as:

colored wax;
liquid wax;
white wax;
oil wax;
paraffin;
turpentine;
tint paints.

Wax-based impregnation of wood protects the surface from scratches. But it can also hide them. Typically, white or yellow wax is used to work with wood. When applied, this composition becomes transparent and does not add color to the wood.

If you need to refresh old furniture, use colored wax. Most often these are dark shades that allow you to hide chips and scratches on old furniture. Depending on the type of wood, the paints with which the wax is mixed will differ:

For oak, brown and black paints are used;
for pine or cedar – golden;
Red paints are used in mahogany compositions.

Colored wax is not used on chairs and dining tables to prevent the furniture from staining the clothes of the people who will use it.

We do the impregnation ourselves

Do-it-yourself wood impregnation can not only protect, but also protect the surface from external factors. This mixture is easy to make at home. The recipe is simple:

Take beeswax, drying oil and turpentine oil. Mixing proportions – 3:2:5.
Melt the beeswax in a water bath and add the remaining ingredients to it.
Stir the resulting mixture well, pour into a storage container and let it harden.

This impregnating composition can be used to care for parquet and furniture. There are a lot of technologies for processing wood materials, but the most effective is using wax and oil.

Processing wood with wax (2 videos)

The varnish will give a representative gloss, the oil will preserve the natural texture of the wood, and the wax will make the surface velvety to the touch. But the problem is that you can’t use them at the same time, although you really want to. You will have to choose, because the tree in any case needs protection, not only from mechanical damage, but also from atmospheric phenomena, high humidity and temperature changes.

It is better to choose natural compositions: oil, wax, glaze and wood varnish based on natural ingredients. They are safe for humans and the environment, odorless, and can be safely used even for treating children's toys.

Moreover, the choice between oil, wax and varnish must be made in advance, because later you may encounter some problems. To change the varnish coating to an oil one, you will need to remove the old varnish layer - this is not difficult, since the layer does not penetrate deep into the wood, but lies on the surface. But varnishing an oiled or waxed surface is a very difficult task. The oil penetrates very deeply into the pores of the wood and hardens, so to remove the oil layer you will have to remove the entire impregnated layer of wood. It is better to give preference to one product and renew the coating as needed.

Wood varnish

Varnish is the most durable coating for wooden surfaces. Depending on the composition, it can be used both indoors and outdoors. Natural wood varnish consists of boiled down wood and vegetable oils, resins, natural auxiliary substances and solvent. As a rule, water and citrus essential oils are used as a solvent.

Unlike oil, varnish changes the texture of wood, smoothes the surface and gives it a glossy shine. A rather thick film is formed on the treated surface, which penetrates into the pores of the wood only to a small depth. The varnish layer is more susceptible to scratches and moisture than other coatings. Unlike wax, varnish does not impart antistatic properties to wood.

Apply wood varnish with a brush to a clean, dry and sanded surface without dust. Three layers of varnish are considered the most optimal. The first layer is applied by carefully rubbing along the grain and reveals the color of the wood, the second layer gives depth to the color, and the third layer provides shine. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. As a rule, the first layer of varnish raises the wood pile, so after it dries, the surface must be sanded.

You can cover the wood with additional layers of varnish, especially if the surface is subjected to heavy loads, but you need to keep in mind that with each layer the thickness of the coating increases. It is important to very clearly define the boundary between what is necessary and what is sufficient.

Separately, it is worth highlighting floor varnish and yacht varnish, which are the most durable and wear-resistant.

Wood oil

Unlike varnish, oil deeply saturates the wood without changing, but only emphasizing its natural texture. The treated surface remains textured and acquires a slight matte tint. Wood oil imparts water-repellent properties to the surface, protects it from dirt and does not close the pores, that is, the surface remains “breathable”.

Natural oil is made from vegetable oils: linseed, wood, orange - sometimes with an admixture of beeswax. The oil can be transparent and with the addition of coloring pigments to simultaneously tint the wood. Mineral pigments are usually used as dyes.

Wood wax oil is used for parquet flooring. It is practical and durable, but requires proper care. Wood oil is applied in a thin layer to a dry, clean and sanded surface with a wide brush in two or three layers. After each coat, excess oil should be removed with a soft, lint-free cloth. After the first layer, it is enough to wait 20 minutes, and after applying the finishing layer, the oil should be completely absorbed and harden within about 5-7 hours. If you are covering the floor, it is recommended that there be no load during the day.

Furniture oil may contain a certain amount of wax and this must be taken into account during subsequent waxing.

To protect outdoor furniture, use a special oil for garden furniture, and for various fences, picket fences, and wooden exterior items, use garden wood oil.

Wood wax

Wax gives the wooden surface antistatic and water-repellent properties, smoothness, silkiness and matte shine. Can be used either independently or for additional protection of surfaces already coated with oil or glaze.

Wax can be solid or liquid with a thick consistency. Natural wood wax is made from beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax with the addition of a solvent. Depending on the consistency, the wax is applied with a brush, a soft cloth that does not leave lint, or a special brush. The wax is applied to the wood in the direction of the grain; the layer should be thin and uniform. After applying the first layer, the wax should be allowed to absorb for about an hour, and then the excess should be removed. To make the wood shine, apply a second layer of wax and polish the surface.

Azure for wood

Azure is a cross between oil and wax, combining the properties of both. Azure deeply impregnates the wood, tints it and at the same time forms a thin protective layer on the surface, protecting the surface from mechanical influences.

Both varnish and oil can create a glossy, semi-gloss or matte finish. Both varnish and oil have a protective function, protecting the surface from mechanical stress, abrasion, penetration of moisture and dust into the pores of the wood, thermal effects (boiling water, hot mugs), contamination (for example, from spilled alcohol or juice).

Both types of finishing coating, in addition to the main protective function, also create a decorative appeal to the finished product:

Enhances the natural color of wood.
Emphasizes the texture of wood.
Tinting compositions of varnish or oil completely change color, imitating other types of wood, or create bright color compositions that are not characteristic of natural nature.

Comparative aesthetic characteristics

When comparing the aesthetic effects of varnish and oil on wood, it should be noted:

Varnish creates more shine compared to oil.
The surface coated with varnish is smoother and more gliding.
The varnish coating is not tactile, while the oil is more noticeable.
Oil preserves and more strongly conveys the natural texture of wood compared to varnish.

Some of the difference in aesthetic perception is due to the fact that the varnish creates a denser layer on the surface, while the oil is absorbed into the wood structure. This is the reason that with the same number of coats applied, oil and varnish create different visual effects.

If you prefer the wood of the product to remain as natural as possible and convey the texture of the wood, choose oil.

Comparative strength qualities

The oil penetrates deeply into the pores of the wood and protects it from the inside.
Varnish creates a film on the surface of products and protects them from the outside.
Wax forms an elastic, breathable film on the outside.

Varnishes and oils in combination with wax protect the surfaces of the product to approximately the same extent.

Varnish is considered more durable

It creates a strong film on the surface of the product, since its layer is somewhat thicker and denser than oil. However, it is precisely this quality that makes the varnish vulnerable.

Scratches on a varnished surface are more noticeable compared to an oiled surface.

Modern oils such as Saicos and Osmo, with the proper number of layers, also form a reliable, fairly strong protective film on the surface. At the same time, the oils we use are environmentally friendly.

Comparative environmental properties

From the point of view of environmental friendliness, Saicos and Osmo oils meet safety requirements to the maximum. They contain natural ingredients of plant origin.

Just as vegetable oil is useful for humans, natural oil with wax is useful for wood, since it is the most compatible with it.

Natural oil with hard wax contains:

Sunflower, soybean, linseed oil.
Natural wax approved for use in the food industry.
Pigments that do not contain heavy metals.

However, the finishing material should not be considered as edible vegetable oil. In addition to the listed ingredients, it contains various compositions that ensure uniform application of the product to the surface of the wood and the hardness of the coating.

Countertops coated with hard wax oil can be used for cooking. Therefore, for surfaces where contact with food is planned, preference should be given to oil coating.

The varnishes we use, Akzonobel or Hesse Lignal, meet high safety requirements and are made by reliable manufacturers who give preference to high-quality compositions.

Maintainability

The strength characteristics of the varnish are somewhat higher, but when choosing, you should take into account operating conditions and maintainability.

For intensive use and use of the product in aggressive environments, it is better to give preference to varnish. It should be borne in mind that varnish, unlike oil, is not repairable in domestic conditions. If the varnish surface is damaged (scratches or abrasions appear), you will have to sand off and re-varnish the entire surface. This is not done at home. Professional factory repairs will be required.

Products coated with oil and hard wax, if abrasions appear, can be easily restored at home independently (without the involvement of qualified craftsmen). A damaged surface that has lost its shine can simply be treated with colorless oil by rubbing it in with a linen cloth.

comparison table

Comparative aesthetic and performance characteristics of oils and polyurethane varnishes:


Creates more shine. Absolutely smooth surface, wood is not tactilely felt.	Creates less shine. Tactilely retains the natural texture and looks more natural.
Creates a stronger protective film.	In combination with hard wax it is not much inferior to varnish.
High-quality synthetic material, not harmful to health.	Environmentally friendly natural material.
Not recommended for surfaces intended for food preparation.	Suitable for kitchen worktops, worktops can be used for cooking.
Scratches and abrasions are more noticeable.	Scratches and abrasions are less noticeable.
Professional repairs in the factory in case of scratches and other damage.	Self-repair at home by rubbing oil with hard wax.
Recommended for intense use: bars, restaurants, stairs.	Used in domestic conditions: kitchens, window sills, tables.
Does not leave traces of vodka, wine, water, boiling water, and is easy to clean.	Just like varnish leaves no traces. Traces can only remain when using cheap oils.
	Direct contact with chemical liquids (solvents, alcohol, gasoline, chlorine and alkali containing products, etc.) is not allowed;

Which brand should you prefer?

For reliable, aesthetically attractive finishing of wooden products, we use:

High-quality polyurethane varnishes: Akzonobel and Hesse Lignal.
Hard wax oils: Osmo and Saicos.

We came to this choice by testing numerous types of finishing mixtures and by observing changes in their characteristics during operation. For testing, we took products from 4 manufacturers:

OSMO oils (premium price).
BORMA oils (low price).
SAICOS oils (average price)
Polyurethane varnishes AKZONOBEL and Hesse Lignal (premium price).

General test results

The best results were shown by polyurethane varnishes: Akzonobel and Hesse Lignal and Saicos hard wax oil. Testing was carried out on oak panels. Water, wine, vodka were poured onto the surface, leaving the liquids for 5-30 minutes, 5 days, 1 month.

Test results:

Akzonobel and Hesse Lignal varnishes withstand temperature effects better.
Hot mugs and plates leave no marks on the varnish surface.
The varnish is resistant to moisture penetration and leaves no marks when exposed to liquid for more than 5 days.
Contamination from wine, juice, and other drinks on the varnish surface is easily removed.
Osmo and Saicos hard wax oils do not absorb moisture for 5-30 minutes or more, but if you leave the liquid for more than 5 days, the water is absorbed and traces remain.

Characteristics for each brand

Osmo - there are small traces of wine, no traces of vodka, spilled boiling water, or a mug of boiling water. There are no traces left after immersion in water for 30 minutes. With intense mechanical impact, minor marks appear.
Borma - stains remain from wine, from vodka, from spilled boiling water. There are no traces of a mug of boiling water when immersed in water for 30 minutes. Significant marks remain from extreme mechanical stress.
Saicos - no traces remain from wine, from vodka, from spilled boiling water, from a mug with boiling water, from immersion in water for 30 minutes. Minor marks are retained from extreme mechanical stress.
AKZONOBEL and Hesse Lignal - no traces remain from wine, spilled vodka, spilled boiling water, a mug with boiling water, or immersion in water for 30 minutes. Minor marks from extreme mechanical stress.

Brief conclusions

Osmo is recognized as the best manufacturer of hard wax oils. However, according to the results of our testing, Saicos is not inferior to it, and in some respects even surpasses it.

For home, household, long-term use, we recommend Saicos - it costs less than premium compounds, but is not inferior to elite finishing materials in terms of durability, looks natural, can be repaired and updated at home.

For intensive use, we recommend Akzonobel and Hesse Lignal - for bar countertops where alcohol is constantly spilled, for steps and floors where there is prolonged mechanical impact. These are the best Italian and German brands.

What don't we use?

We do not consider nitrocellulose, water-based acrylic and other cheap varnishes because:

They take a long time to dry.
During the long drying process, dust settles on them.
Cloudy, no color clarity.
Worse protection from scratches and water.
The products look cheap.

We also do not use tung, teak oils, or oils with hard wax of the Borma brand, since they are unreliable in operation - surfaces treated with them quickly wear out and cannot withstand intense loads.

When answering the question: “parquet board, oil or varnish, which is better?”, it is worth initially noting how the board differs from parquet. The difference lies primarily in the degree of readiness. Parquet boards, unlike solid wood or parquet, are coated with varnish or oil at the factory and go on sale in finished form. That is why you need to decide on the choice of coverage in this case before purchasing. Parquet is coated with varnish, oil or wax after installation, and this is its significant difference.

It is varnish that is most often used to treat wood boards. The coating does an excellent job of protecting the surface from moisture and dirt, extends the service life of products, and simplifies maintenance.

Unlike oil, varnish is not absorbed into the surface during processing. By forming a film, the varnish improves the quality characteristics of products. Regardless of the type of parquet board (one-, two-, three-strip), in the case of varnish treatment, at least five layers are used with preliminary surface preparation - a primer. Some manufacturers apply at least 11 layers of varnish, maximizing the surface of the products.

Compositions based on polyurethane or acrylic are used as the final varnish coating for parquet boards. There is no solvent in them, due to which optimal adhesion to the base is formed. UV radiation is used to fix the varnish layer during processing, thus improving the level of elasticity and flexibility of the board.

A nice bonus is the ability to choose a varnish with a suitable level of tone and gloss among options with glossy, matte and semi-matte effects.

Oil coating of parquet boards - features

Continuing to analyze whether oil or varnish is better for the quality and performance characteristics of the parquet board, it is worth paying attention to some of the nuances of the oil coating.

It is fundamentally important that the finishing oil is suitable for people with allergic reactions due to its maximum environmental friendliness. It contains no harmful artificial products. It is based exclusively on natural waxes and plant ingredients.

The effect of coating using oil differs from that of “varnish”. The advantages of wood are more clearly displayed; due to the penetration of oil to a depth of 2 mm, the surface becomes perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch. A floor finished with such a board looks as natural as possible. As for colors, you can choose both completely colorless oils and tinted ones.

Parquet varnish – why choose?

The choice in favor of varnish for covering parquet (not boards) is usually made taking into account a number of advantages of this type of finish. These include:

minimal coating maintenance;
long service life (the first replacement will be required no earlier than after 5 years);
the ability to remove a layer of varnish for a new coating;
possibility of using optical effects.

The disadvantage of the varnished surface of parquet is that it can be rubbed in certain areas, which will entail the need for cosmetic repairs.

Parquet oil – the pros and cons

What to choose - varnish or oil for parquet and why? To know the answer, you need to understand what characteristics not only varnish, but also oil has, and what parquet becomes due to oil treatment in operation.

So, oil was originally used for processing parquet boards and exclusively on an industrial scale. Not so long ago, the compounds began to be used more widely, treating not only parquet boards, but also parquet, as well as solid boards. Oil, unlike varnish, is absorbed into the surface, penetrating through the pores of the material without interfering with its ability to “breathe.”

It is better to cover parquet with oil compounds not only because it is environmentally friendly due to its 100% naturalness, but also because they:

protect the surface of products from moisture;
do not limit possibilities in case of urgent local replacement;
increase strength characteristics;
simplify and speed up parquet repairs without the need to empty the room of furniture.

To extend the life of the oil coating, it is recommended to care for the floor using special compounds. Only in this case will the choice of coating be justified - it will retain its color, integrity and natural shine.

Summarizing all of the above, we note that there is no universal advice regarding the choice of oil or varnish for processing parquet boards or parquet. Everyone is guided by personal preferences, analyzing the quality characteristics of both coating options, comparing prices and consumer reviews.