What is the best oil for sharpening knives? Blog about sharpening. Universal diamond block
lexussr 03-01-2008 21:04
I went to the store and noticed that there was some kind of oil in the sharpening kits from Lansky. Separately, this microbubble costs about 200 chopped. all my life I watered the bar with soapy water (I put it in the sink and, like a surgeon before the operation, I washed my hands before sharpening, and the soapy water gets on the stone) and that’s it. the bars did not clog strongly and do not clog. who used this oil - is there an exhaust from it? and how does it generally differ from, say, engine oil?
botanic 03-01-2008 21:29
You mean exhaust? I use oil on Arkansas, jasper, green. brazilian...
Maybe on ceramics, but on high. per. better oil - less wear, cleaner finishing.
Almost any oil can be used, the main thing is that it does not dry out - it forms a film, an infection. Ceramics goes with everything
PS: machine is not edible%)
Anatolych 26 03-01-2008 21:34
quote: machine is not edible%)Well, then creamy.
Spindle type - applicable?
botanic 03-01-2008 21:43
Butter also dries
You can also use a typewriter, but somehow ... hm. The knife is still.
The spindle seemed to be used, I didn’t try it, it will be necessary to conduct an examination. J. Baby is going right
Dmitry.M 03-01-2008 22:01
Vaseline from the pharmacy and do not bathe.
lexussr 03-01-2008 22:09
quote: You mean exhaust?
I mean, what's the point?
lexussr 03-01-2008 22:10
quote: Vaseline from the pharmacy and do not bathe.
have you tried it yourself?
Dmitry.M 03-01-2008 22:13
But what about, in Arkansas I only sharpen with him. Periodically I wash with kerosene and sharpen again.
lexussr 03-01-2008 22:23
quote: But what about, in Arkansas I only sharpen with him
Arkansas STE is certainly good. what about Lansky bars or regular abrasives from the hardware store. in the sense of corundum and so on?
Dmitry.M 03-01-2008 22:26
But I don’t have such ... For natural stones, oil is better, and for glued on a bunch, soap is better. But this is my purely IMHA.
bs4u32sr30 03-01-2008 22:37
quote: Originally posted by lexusssr:
in the sense of corundum and so on?
in water for half an hour and that's it. consumables...
better tell me how to remove metal from ceramics, the bar is very greasy. if I throw it into the nitrogen, will the bar itself not dissolve by chance? bar-spider medium. metal, both carbon and stainless. well, in obschem all in a row.
Dmitry.M 03-01-2008 22:48
If it is sintered ceramics, nothing will become of it. If in a bunch, then it can swim ...
You can sharpen a knife on glued stones if the result is not very important. Glued stones usually wear out easily, and therefore the geometry of the RK floats. My Arkansas has been standing for many years, nothing has been done to it. And everything sharpens and sharpens. And there is one more pebble, it was bought a long time ago as a stone for finishing hooks. Red with black spots. Hard as I don't know what. It is salted dry at a time, but it finishes like in a fairy tale.
There was another stone for straightening razors. Also my grandfather. Brown, the grain is completely invisible. But one "handy" acquaintance turned it in his hands and dropped it ... his grandfather called him a whetstone. Now there are two worthless micro touchstones left. I do not use it, I keep it as a memory.
Now I roughly form the RK with a diamond, then I finish it on Arkansas and on the "hook". And then if you need absolute sharpness on micron diamond paste and tungsten carbide lapping. Although those two stones are enough for the eyes to shave.
botanic 03-01-2008 22:53
For ceramics, water is better, maximum soaps. rr. Why translate oil for the sake of it?
The metal seems to have been removed with a rust remover. You can remove the surface, but this is not for everybody.
bs4u32sr30 03-01-2008 23:02
The metal seems to have been removed with a rust remover.
nerzhu will not take ... well, I'll try anyway.
Policija 03-01-2008 23:12
And I have a jar of German army oil for barrel lubrication. They promised that there would be no problems in the cold. I'll try it with Lansky.
NEA 03-01-2008 23:35
Oil "Johnson baby" - tested by life. IMHO
Konstantinovich 04-01-2008 01:23
quote: Originally posted by Botanic:
green brazilian...
Can you post a picture of this "Brazilian"?
bs4u32sr30 04-01-2008 03:25
quote: Originally posted by fkbr:
cleaning plumbing type "Komet"
tnx a lot
Zuzamod 04-01-2008 03:59
quote: Originally posted by NeA:
Oil "Johnson baby" - tested by life. IMHO
Contains paraffin.
Yakyt 04-01-2008 09:40
So what? Sharpening something with him is normal, many people use it.
botanic 04-01-2008 10:02
What's wrong with paraffin? It sharpens perfectly on it (on oil, vsm), there are no side effects ...
Zuzamod Happy birthday by the way
dr-feld 05-01-2008 12:48
Happy New Year Dear!
As for the oil, its main purpose is to get the maximum buzz from meditation. In addition to this, it protects the stone from clogging and improves the quality of finishing. I used both special and hell than. I didn't notice any practical difference. It is only required to choose the right viscosity - for natural ones, the most liquid, for artificial ones, thicker. By the way, a drop of oil is a good test for the quality of synthetic stones - if it remains on the surface, you can work, if it immediately goes into the depths, it's rubbish. IMHO of course.
Hummel 05-01-2008 02:03
From ceramics, metal is well removed with pemolux powder. Also mineral acids
Nikolay_K 12-12-2008 18:51
quote: Contains paraffin.
in the generalized sense of the word, paraffin means "having no affinity", that is, something like "par affinity" and chemists use the word paraffins for any saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons, including all kinds of gasoline and kerosene (purified from a smelly and poisonous aromatic component)
well suited for sharpening and working fluid for EDM (it is refined kerosene), which would also quite correctly be called a mixture of liquid paraffins, like vaseline oil and baby oil
Sovietsky 12-12-2008 19:40
I use BALISTOL all the time and I don’t know any problems, the liquid smells of anise))), and it’s not harmful))).
Nikolay_K 12-12-2008 20:40
quote: I use BALISTOL and I don’t know any problems
A good idea, but for those who often need to sharpen something, Ballistol Oil can be too expensive. Even good olive oil is cheaper! (and it, by the way, is also non-drying and is considered one of the best for grinding and polishing pastes)
May 27, 2019
May 25, 2019
P.S. As a matter of fact, the Sharpening Blog did not stay away from this event...
May 22, 2019
May 20, 2019
May 17, 2019
May 15, 2019
The St. George ribbon has nothing to do with the Victory of the Soviet people over the Nazi-German invaders, nothing to do with the awards of the USSR and the soldiers of the Red Army, because it was attached to the Order of St. George, which was officially awarded in the Russian Empire (this award has been revived in our days in the Russian Federation) . They say that Russia cannot be understood with the mind. I appreciate and respect the desire of the inhabitants of modern Russia to honor the memory of the fallen on the battlefield, to express respect for the veterans and gratitude to the people who gave everything for the front, but I don’t understand the use of the St. George ribbon for this, which has a very dubious history during the war years, the symbol of Victory in which trying to impose on us.
The farther away from the war, the more lies, fables and distortions of memory. The farther away from the war, the more they want to quarrel the peoples of those countries that together won the Victory. The farther away from the war, the more they try to tell us that it is not the truth that is important, but its interpretation ...
Millions of innocent victims of fascism are not forgotten. They are in the memory of mankind forever. Let's honor the memory of the fallen with a moment of silence. And a kind word of gratitude for the lives given to us ...
Sources: argumentua.com, rkrp-rpk.ru, wikipedia, google, george-orden
01 May 2019
Created on 10/10/14, last updated on 05/01/19
P.S. Feedback, comments, opinions, advice are welcome. Criticism not supported by a constructive opinion is regarded as an attempt to draw the author into an unnecessary dispute and will be deleted... Brunette:
- And my husband sent me to the Institute for Noble Maidens, and there they taught me to say “beautiful” instead of “do not drive”.
Prayer of a brunette:
Lord, I beg you, give me
Wisdom to understand a man.
Love to forgive him, and Patience for his moods.
Because, Lord, if I ask for the Power...
I'll just beat him to death!
A traffic cop stops a brunette, repainted blonde, in a very good car, hoping to earn more than usual, and diplomatically asks:
Why do you think I'm standing here?
The brunette, dyed blonde, replies without hesitation:
- I think that at school you didn’t do what you should have done in the best way ...
Announcement:
"Brunette, 90-60-90, height 175 cm, inner thigh length - 56 cm, shoulder girth - 114 cm, distance between the eyes - 2 cm, hair length - 34 cm.
The blonde asks the brunette:
- Do you have a personal life?
- Do not ask! Starts with "P" and ends with "C".
- Do you have a prince?!
Brunettes are smart, they are able to make a career and earn their own apartment and car. And blondes are stupid, so they just give them.
***
I'm standing in line at the pharmacy. Ahead of me is a pretty girl, a brunette.
The bald grandfather studied the packaging of some medicine for half an hour,
finally decided to buy it. Everyone breathes a sigh of relief. Queue
brunettes. She hands the pharmacist a prearranged amount of money and
so timidly, in an undertone says: - Please give me the package
condoms and Pentalgin for headaches. And after a pause he adds:
- So what to do? You don't want to, but you have to.
Blonde, brunette and redhead are in 3rd grade. Who has more breasts?
- The blonde. She is 18.
So what, in fact, work has the right to be called professional, and what is amateur?
To understand this issue, one must take into account that it is customary to call professional work performed by a person for whom it is a profession and the main means of earning. Whereas the activity of a person to whom it is an interesting and favorite hobby in his free time and not a means of earning money in another profession is usually called amateur.
Profession (from Latin professio) is a type of labor activity of a person who owns a complex of special knowledge and practical skills obtained through special education, training or experience, which make it possible to perform work in a certain area of production for direct and certain compensation. Usually the source of his existence. (Wikipedia)If you try to connect words professional And professionalism with the profession, there is also a direct connection here - the profession means working for the purpose of earning money and livelihood.
So, if you are (for example) a photographer by profession, then your earnings, and therefore the well-being of your family, directly depend on the quality and volume of services provided, so you are interested in supporting and improving your skills and your client base.
It is the profession that allows you to constantly engage in your work, daily practicing old and acquiring new skills and experience. Of course, here an important role is played by the material incentive, which makes one take on, at times, a thankless job.
Not always and not for everyone, the profession coincides with a favorite thing, but if this happens, then a person puts his soul into his work. It must be called a small miracle. But, oddly enough, miracles are also found in our time. In any case, a professional is a person who earns thanks to his profession. If your profession is a photographer and you work as a photographer, then your pictures are considered professional, but if you are a car mechanic by profession, then your pictures will be amateur.
Professional (from English profes) - a representative of a profession or any person who earns a living by a certain professional activity. Also, etymology defines a professional as a person of a certain profession who has a reputation as a reliable worker. (Wikipedia)But each person has a personal hobby that he loves, to which he devotes his free time and invests his money in it. But which does not affect his earnings, received in the main profession.
Gradually, devoting his free time to his favorite hobby, a person acquires new knowledge and experience for him, which can be commensurate or higher than the level of a professional working in a field similar to his hobby.
Such a person will still remain an amateur because for him this is only a favorite pastime that has taken his free time from professional activities. But if an amateur in his hobby can achieve a high level of skill and a new income for him becomes more important than his main job, then he can become a professional, making his favorite hobby his new profession.
Amateur (from French amateur) - a person who is engaged in a certain activity, training or research, regardless of the source of his income. In other words, this is a person who has sufficient funds and free time to be interested in any subject without using his amateur knowledge and skills to earn a living from this. (Wikipedia)Above, I mentioned the financial incentive. If among professionals it is in the first place, then it is love that motivates an amateur to his occupation.
If in his work a professional is often limited in time and his choice, then an amateur who is passionate about his work has a greater degree of freedom, chooses only what is interesting to him, and thanks, incl. and this in creative (and not only) moments, sometimes it can reach greater heights than a professional.
Most likely, an amateur will need a good mood for his activity, while a professional will be forced to work in an orderly and systematic manner, look for an approach to each client and study his needs, delve into all the nuances, calculate the timing of the task, even plan the next vacation of his family etc...
I often visit technical forums, where there is a discussion not only of any work performed, but also of their technical aspects. And I noticed a long time ago that the words "professional", "professional work" are very common, while I can not remember the use of such words as "amateur" and "amateur work".
Perhaps there is a psychological factor here, when, being essentially an amateur in some kind of activity, a person cannot call himself that? Or are these cases - banal prejudices with a false, without any reflection, judgment about the essence of the issue?
Now I don't have answers to these questions. Perhaps the next time I return to this conversation, I will have something to write about these issues.
Good luck everyone and have a nice day!
ZAT(Dnepr, Ukraine)
Hello again!
Approaches me somehow, my friend:
- Tyomych, - he says, - clambered all over the Internet and did not find information on how to sharpen a knife. Will you write an article?
- Yes, no problem, Lech! - I tell him, - I just can’t believe that you, a well-known “hacker” in narrow circles, could not find the necessary information.
To which Lech replies:
- Yes, I found it, of course, but everything is somehow abstruse there, and you will explain “on your fingers” ...
Well, I guess why not. So an article about sharpening knives was born.
introductory
Sharpening was carried out on a simple kitchen knife, produced by unknown comrades from China. The knife was cleaned of dirt, slightly polished and, of course, sharpened. You can see what happened below.
It is unlikely that everyone uses Japanese kitchen utensils from Damascus, although the principle of sharpening is the same. Still, it doesn’t matter what to sharpen: a Chinese knife for 100 rubles or a Japanese (German) knife made of VG10 thousand steel for 15 rubles, or even more.
The only question is how long the knife will keep sharpening. And this just depends on the quality of the steel and the geometry of the blade.
Theory
A bit of theory. As in any business, we cannot do without theoretical knowledge.
Knife geometry
If you still do not know the anatomy of a knife, that is, what a knife is, I advise you to read. The article is encyclopedic, but the basic terms, I hope, will be clear.
Take any knife and look at it from the point of view.
What do you see? Well, except for the tip. Can't you see anything? Strange! Must see WEDGE. Now have you seen? Here is something similar:
The knife in cross section is a wedge formed by slopes. What allows the knife to cut or chop (it all depends on the purpose of the knife).
And since the slopes form a too sharp angle, somewhere around 10 degrees, this will not allow the knife to remain sharp for a long time (the cutting edge will definitely curl or crumble, depending on the steel). To prevent this from happening, do carts, which form the cutting edge (RK).
For some steels, such a “feint with ears” as micro-leads is still used. Micro-feeds allow on some steels to increase the service life of the RC, but this feint does not always work.
Thus, the task of sharpening is to create the correct angle of convergence of the supplies. This angle may vary. Different tasks require different sharpening angles.
For example, a fillet knife (designed for thin slicing of meat and fish) is sharpened at an angle of 30-40 degrees,
Machete or survival knife, which most often cut something - 50-60 degrees. But most often, knives are sharpened at an angle of 40-45 degrees, which is recognized as optimal for solving most household tasks.
Let's move on to physics.
Physics of the sharpening process
Did everyone study physics at school? How do hard and soft interact with each other if a softer material is rubbed against a harder one?
Most often, soft, under the influence of friction force, wears out. Same with sharpening. Soft, in our case, is a knife, and hard is an abrasive bar.
Under the influence of hard inclusions of a grindstone, abrasion of metal particles occurs. Which, in turn, leads to the emergence of a kind of microsaw on the cutting edge of the knife.
This microsaw can be seen on the cutting edge of any knife if you look closely. It is especially visible on new knives. Here I tried to photograph it.
Do you see vertical transverse stripes on the cutting edge? These are the traces of the grindstone. The picture below can be seen in more detail.
Thus, it turns out that the smaller the size of the hard inclusions of the whetstone, the smaller the microsaw will be on the cutting edge. Accordingly, the smaller the microsaw, the longer the knife will remain sharp. Which is what we need.
That's all physics ... And now it's time to move on to practice.
Practice
Theory is good, but you need to practice as much as possible, then the hands themselves will remember and the whole process will settle down in the head.
The most important thing in sharpening is the correct retention of the angle. And this requires practice. The more you practice, the better you get. Well, as in any business that requires skill and patience. I dare to assure you that the first time you will not be able to sharpen the knife. But with due diligence… well, you get the idea.
Tool
So, for sharpening, you need a whetstone, a little of any machine oil and a knife, which we will sharpen.
Grindstone
At any hardware store, buy a simple bar. It happens in the shape of a boat, but it is better to buy double-sided and more authentic. When you start to succeed, you will get something more solid. Diamond bars, for example…
The bar should not be shorter than 150 millimeters. Why so, you can make sure just by trying to sharpen on bars of different lengths. The longer the bar, the easier it is to sharpen.
Oil
We need machine or weapon oil. Oil is needed to lubricate the bar during the sharpening process, so that the bar does not become clogged with metal particles.
In no case should you use organic oil, such as sunflower. The bar will instantly become greasy and can be thrown away.
For the first time, do not take a new knife or the knife that you use constantly. Find some knife that you don't mind ruining. This is where you practice. My experiment knife was this old, old kitchen worker.
Well, there is a tool, let's start sharpening.
Sharpening process
We sit down more comfortably. We put the bar on the table in front of us, with the short side towards us. You can put something like a rubber mat or newspaper under the bar so that it does not crawl on the table when sharpening.
We take a knife and start sharpening it.
The sharpening process takes place on whetstones of different grain sizes. From large to small. The coarser the grain, the faster the metal is removed from the blade. And the smaller the grain, the smaller the microsaw on the cutting edge, and the smaller the microsaw on the RC, the longer the knife will remain sharp.
Since we are sharpening a kitchen knife, we do not need razor sharpness, it is enough that the knife cuts food well. I will talk about checking the result of sharpening below. And now I repeat.
The bar lies on the table, with the short side towards you and the large grain up. Easily and naturally, without much pressure, we begin to form the cutting edge. Pre-dropping a few drops of oil on the bar.
Moving away from you, shown in the picture below.
Please note that the movement of the knife on the stone should be clear and continuous. From mouth to tip.
Brought to the tip, torn off and in a new way. Repeating this movement many times, we achieve the formation of a burr on the reverse side of the blade, along the entire length of the cutting edge.
Many times - I “turned down” this a little, of course. Kitchen knives, if they are not "Japanese", are made of fairly soft steel, it will be enough to make 40-50 movements to get the desired result. Do not forget to add a few drops of oil as the bar becomes dirty.
The burr can be seen or felt. Slide your finger across the cutting edge, feel that the finger seems to cling to something. There is some roughness. This is the burr, which should be uniform along the entire length of the cutting edge.
Okay, one side is done. Now you need to do the same on the other side.
You can sharpen the other side by holding the knife by the handle with your left hand, but for example, it’s not convenient for me, because I hold the knife in my right hand, but I sharpen not from myself, but towards myself.
We perform the procedure for obtaining a burr along the entire length of the cutting edge on the other side of the knife.
Now you can move to the shallower side of the grindstone. On the shallow side of the bar, you need to repeat all of the above.
That's the whole sharpening process. It seems to be not difficult, but it requires certain skills and a lot of patience.
Sharpening angle control
It is very difficult to keep the knife in the right position. After all, the most important thing is to hold it at a certain angle during the entire sharpening process. And if on the one hand it is even more or less convenient, then on the opposite side it is quite difficult to get into the right corner.
You can use the "crutch method". That is, some improvised devices or techniques.
Crutch first
A simple clerical clip is used. We put it on the blade and get an approximate angle of 20-25 degrees (meaning half of the total sharpening angle).
Instead of a clamp, you can make small templates at the desired angles, for example, from wood.
Crutch second
It's not a tool, it's a technique. Take a simple permanent marker and paint over the leads. When sharpening, the paint will be erased at the points of contact between the supplies and the grindstone, which will allow you to see what needs to be done - raise or lower the butt.
Crutch third
A technique for experienced grinders, but the most effective.
The correctness of the angle is determined by the glare on the leads. When the side to be sharpened is illuminated at a certain angle, glare appears on the leads. These highlights clearly show where the corner is littered.
I can’t show a photo, it’s quite difficult to photograph it, and you can’t explain it in words too much. This is a must see...
There are several other devices and techniques, but I will talk about them in another article. After all, you still need to check what happened. How well, after all the efforts, we sharpened the knife.
Sharpness test
A well-sharpened knife should easily shave off the hair on the forearm.
After sharpening the next knife, from the wrist to the elbow, I do not have a single hair left, and only on my left hand. It looks cool - one arm is hairy, and the other is carefully shaved)))
Poems taken in an excellent public brutalica.ru
The knife should shave off the hair, and, as they say, “with a rebound”. That is, without pressure and at the slightest touch.
But in fact, such sharpness is not needed.
Especially women will swear. After all, they cook delicious dinners with the help of a knife. And with such sharpness, you can cut yourself, like hello. And you will not feel anything, you will only notice when the blood flows. Checked on myself.
Therefore, a well-sharpened kitchen knife should easily cut a soft fresh loaf of bread, shred tomatoes for salad (only not store-bought balls from abroad, but good such juicy thin-skinned tomatoes, such can be found on the market at grannies) and easily cope with cling film, stretch film is also called (if the knife is blunt, then it is easier to tear this stretch film with your hands than to cut it).
Does the knife pass all three tests or at least one of them? Congratulations! You have managed to sharpen the knife properly. If not, then you have to work harder...
Conclusion
What can I say. When sharpening, you need to develop certain skills. This is not a bike where you learned once and remembered for a lifetime. It requires constant training so that the hands remember the position of the knife and the angle of its inclination.
In general, sharpening a knife is a good method of relaxation and distraction. Hands are busy, and the head turns off. You sit ... shirk ... shirk ... shirk ..., turned over ... and again - shirk ... shirk ... shirk ... The most important thing is that the wife does not need to sharpen the knife at this very moment ... chop the salad :-)
So, I advise you to sharpen (namely, to sharpen, there is also such a thing as “cutting a knife”, this is a little different) to approach thoroughly, and not from a running start.
On this cheerful picture, let me bow to the next article ...
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Delivery by courier in the Moscow region (outside the Moscow Ring Road) (up to 30 km)
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The special formula of the sharpening solution is based on a non-petroleum base and is characterized by the presence of cleaning and anti-corrosion components. Excellent for use with Arkansas and diamond abrasive stones.
KitchenIQ has specially formulated Honing Solution oil for whetstones. This oil-free fluid is packed with cleansing agents and acid corrosion and rust inhibitors. Sharpening oil is ideal for both diamond and Arkansas whetstones. It is not recommended to use an Arkansas whetstone without a lubricant, as metal chips from the tool being sharpened clog the pores of the stone. In this case, it is impossible to completely sharpen the knife and the whetstone itself will not serve the owner for a long time. KitchenIQ knife sharpening oil can solve this problem and is a great addition to your knife and tool sharpening kit. Diamond stones can be used without a lubricant, however, if oil is present, the result of sharpening the blades will be better.
After each use of a stone with oil, it should be carefully cleaned either under running warm water or with a paper or rag towel.
If you take care of the knife according to all the rules, it will serve its owner until the end of his life, and the concept of “care” includes: proper operation, storage, cleaning and sharpening of the blade, as well as keeping the handle and scabbard in order.
Usage
The first thing you need to decide for yourself is whether the knife will be a universal tool or not. In fact, a good knife can do a lot, from picking locks and digging up soil (for example, to set up tent pegs) to filigree slicing raw fish. But the more often he performs the tasks of the first plan, the less he becomes suitable for "fine" work.
There are three ways to solve the problem:
- To have with you a full set of household tools that may come in handy: a screwdriver, an awl, scissors, a sapper shovel, etc. In real life, this is an impractical option.
- Carry the simplest EDC (everyday carry - literally "everyday carry"): a limited set of devices in a compact and convenient package. Usually this is a paracord, a flashlight and a multitool or one multitool.
- Pick up a special knife for rough operations, which it will not be a pity to change periodically (what is popularly called “a miscarriage for a hundred rubles”), and use the rest of the tools - high-quality, expensive and, most likely, dearly loved - to be used for their intended purpose.
Intended use is the first rule of careful handling. You should not crush boar bones with a thin fish knife or use a ceramic blade for cutting cheeses. The knife is also not obliged to “cut nails”, contrary to the opinion of the profane. For disposable work for other purposes, the same hundred-ruble knife is suitable, and the “real” one must be left for its intended purposes.
Storage
- Even if the knife is exclusive (especially if it is exclusive!) and you want to make it an interior decoration, you don’t need to store it on the mantelpiece: blades made of any steel do not like temperature changes.
- Storage areas with high humidity are also not suitable: do not throw a knife in a bathtub, shower or indoor pool.
- The blade is, in a certain sense, a living being, and it periodically needs to "breathe". If you use the knife only during the hunting seasons (and this is only ten days in the spring and about four months in the second half of the year), take it “for a walk” between them - fresh air and a change in humidity are good for steel.
- A knife cannot be stored permanently in a leather sheath. Yes, there is no better place for it when walking and hunting, but at home the product should be transferred to a wooden box: moisture accumulates in the sheath (sometimes it gets there along with the knife), and corrosion goes much faster than outdoors.
- Do not store knives with other metal objects. This mistake is especially often made when it comes to kitchen utensils: they are put in one box with forks and spoons. In this case, the blades deform imperceptibly to the eye, and microscopic chips even form on brittle metals. In the kitchen, knives are stored in wooden block stands or on a magnetic strip that is attached to the wall.
- A knife that doesn't come into contact with food every day (such as the one you take with you on a hike) is ideally stored separately from the sheath, wrapped in an oiled cloth.
Knife sharpening
It is advisable to keep all the knives in the house sharp: it is much easier to cut yourself with a blunt knife, because when working with it we put more effort. On the technique of sharpening itself, the blog has a separate material, so we do not list the methods and rules, we only remind you of a few nuances:
- Japanese knives with traditional one-sided sharpening are corrected or sharpened either on a special device or with the help of
- ceramic knives are given to a professional for sharpening or are sharpened on their own with great care on a diamond-coated disc;
- sharpening any knife in any chosen way is necessary only with the same sharpening angle (backlash * makes the process useless and even harmful to the cutting edge).
* here - a constant unintentional change in the angle at which the grinder holds the blade.
Cleaning and lubricating the knife
Cleanliness is the key to the health of not only a person, but also a knife. Regarding cleaning and lubrication (removing dirt and the old protective compound and applying a new one), we will mainly talk about “folders”, since cleaning and lubricating the “fixed” is a simple matter:
- after contact with aggressive substances (sea water, onions, lemon), the knife is immediately washed with fresh water and wiped dry;
- periodically the blade, and especially the place of its junction with the handle, is lubricated with a small amount of a special composition (even, rather, they do not lubricate, but wipe it with an oiled cloth).
With the "skladnyak" is more difficult (and more interesting). From the counter, he gets to the owner already lubricated, but - attention! - not the lubricant that is intended for regular maintenance, but conservation. She shows herself better if the knife is stored for a long time without using it, but if the “folder” is actively working, it is difficult to work with it: it collects several times more dust and dirt than the “everyday” composition.
They also lubricate, you guessed it, the moving parts of the mechanism, and not just the blade. Moreover, much less oil is required than is usually used; in order not to overdo it, you can use cotton swabs and even toothpicks. In fact, a large amount of the composition will not help to open / close the knife faster, but it will be much more difficult to clean the thickened and contaminated oil.
How can you lubricate the moving parts of the "skladnyak"
- The leader in this respect is gun oil. Firstly, it is easy to find, and secondly, some knife owners still have a firearm, and this removes the task of finding a lubricant: they already have it at home. By the way, handles can also be processed with the same composition.
- Castor oil is also actively used by the owners of knives to lubricate the "folders". True, it is quite thick, attracts a lot of dust and requires frequent replacement.
- Well, a completely “elite” option is the lubrication of knives with camellia oil. This method is recommended by Japanese masters.
Corrosion removal
A separate story is the cleaning of the blade from corrosion. To determine the correct way to remove rust, three degrees of severity of the situation were conditionally introduced.
- Pitting corrosion ("freckles" of rust on the blade). The least terrible damage, it is removed with an ordinary eraser or an old toothbrush with bristles cut off by two thirds, which is dipped in car polish with small abrasive particles.
- Caverns are more visible damage. They are removed in two stages: for the first, they take a scratch polish, and then they finish the job with a finely abrasive polish.
- Serious corrosion is removed along with the factory surface treatment of the blade with an abrasive washcloth or fine-grained sandpaper. After the corrosion is removed, the steel is instantly polished. For what? Polishing is, in fact, the reduction of the surface that is in contact with the medium; less contact means less oxidation and damage. If this is not done, then in the “removed” areas, corrosion will appear again, and with a vengeance.
Several rules for the care of specific materials
Handle materials
- Wooden handles are periodically cleaned and oiled.
- Handles made of bone or horn are only washed and cleaned, but care is taken not to allow them to come into contact with oils, as organic materials darken upon such contact.
- Handles made of various polymers (for example, elastron, like Kizlyar knives) can and should be cleaned with non-aggressive liquid dishwashing detergents.
- Bolsters, pommels, guards, lanyard beads and other metal elements are polished using special compositions.
Scabbard materials
- Leather sheaths are periodically treated with a colorless shoe cream.
- Plastic sheaths (such as those found on tactical or survival knives) or Kydex sheaths are cleaned with a damp cloth, optionally with a mild detergent, and allowed to dry naturally.
- Nylon sheaths are washed periodically, like any cloth equipment.
At first glance, there are a lot of rules for care, but in fact, from all the material that is given above, you should learn for yourself literally a dozen or two rules specifically for your knife. Many of them do not relate to daily use, but only to periodic maintenance, so there will be no difficulties.