How to wash a cat's tray and how to clean it from a urinary stone? Cat litter box - proper cat care How to clean the litter box after a cat

Special containers are suitable for removing excrement, which should be placed in convenient places. Timely cleaning them and removing feces and urine is the most important prerequisite for preventing odor. At the same time, cats are taught to be clean.

What is a cat "toilet", how to equip it?

It should be, as it were, a substitute for a "piece" of wildlife. Cats - so instinct tells them - should certainly bury their feces and urine in a secluded place in a soft bedding after they have dug a small hole. Paws are on the move. A few vigorous movements - and you're done. Cats are, with a few exceptions and aside from special situations, clean pets. When constructing a cat "toilet", a person must proceed from the fact that the cat wants to have the same conditions as in nature. The traditional sandbox is one of the oldest forms. Its shortcomings have prompted numerous cat lovers who breed them to look for new forms, try and experiment. At the same time, they did not forget to look closely at the habits of four-legged animals. From the peculiarities of their behavior, people drew certain conclusions. The "toilet" should attract the animal with its appearance and then it will best suit the purpose. At the same time, it must meet the requirements of hygiene and divert a minimum of effort to cleaning. Experience has shown that cats most of all like such “toilets” that are close in design to natural “latrines”.

The shape and material for the cat's "toilet"

It is advisable to choose a tray with high sides. Many cats love to dig into the litter, so choosing the right litter box is essential. For a kitten, the tray is purchased "for growth", as for an adult. Otherwise, imperceptibly for you, a grown-up cat may miss the edge of a small tray during defecation.

It is desirable that the "toilet" is spacious enough. The cat must not only sit there, but also give free rein to its paws for digging. The sides should not be small, otherwise the contents will spill out. They should not be very high, so that it was possible to enter and exit without difficulty. The “toilet” must be stable, not moving when the animal enters and exits. Unstable vessels with a small bottom surface are not suitable for it. Best suited flat trays with an edge height of 5 to 10 centimeters. It is necessary that the material from which the sudok is made is easy to clean. Wood and cardboard should not be used, because they get wet with urine, do not clean well and smells do not disappear for a long time. Corrosive metals, such as iron, aluminum, etc., are of little use. Experience has shown that it is best to use containers made of faience, ceramics, enameled dishes or plastic. Baths for washing photographs are also suitable for this purpose. You can make a "toilet" from two troughs, when one with holes is inserted into the other, and urine will quickly drain into the lower one. Out of imitation or a sense of cleanliness, many cats try to use the toilet or sink for the "toilet". They are very easy to accustom to this, it all depends on the desire of the owner.

For several cats living in the same area, one tray is not enough. It is quite possible that a cat will not “stand in line” in the tray, waiting for another cat to do its “business”. In addition, when several cats go to one tray, the litter simply does not have time to absorb a large amount of liquid at once, and then the litter consumption increases not in an arithmetic (by the number of cats) progression, but in a geometric one.

All cat litters are divided into two large classes - clumping and absorbent (wood, mineral, silica gel). Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Clumping Aggregate - Most modern clumping aggregates use bentonite clays or other materials with similar properties. Bentonites are special clays that form lumps when liquid waste (urine) gets into them. The main inconvenience of the clumping filler is the need to clean the tray after each “visit” by the cat. Another household problem of this filler is dust. This is especially true for archaeologist cats who love to dig in the tray. Fine-grained filler rises into the air and then settles in a thin layer on surrounding objects.

Absorbent filler - very big class fillers, various materials used. Their main property is the ability to absorb moisture, evenly distributing it throughout the volume. Such a filler, depending on its composition, works from several days to several weeks, after which it is completely replaced.

According to the materials used, absorbent fillers are divided into several types.

Organic (wood) filler is made either from compressed sawdust (as a rule, coniferous wood is used), or from an organic mixture using sawdust (wheat waste, straw, etc. are used in pellets). The main advantage of wood filler is its price. Disadvantages: this filler has a very high consumption; he is quite strongly taken away by the cat around the apartment. Most wood fillers have very poor odor retention and are inconvenient for solid waste disposal.

Granular filler based on fired clays and other inorganic materials differs greatly in its consumer qualities depending on the materials used. Some of them, with prolonged use, turn into a viscous mass and are unpleasant for cats, others are not effective in containing odors. The main advantage of this type of filler is its relatively low cost. At the same time, the replacement of such a filler is much less frequent than the replacement of wood fillers.

Silica gel filler is highly porous silica granules. Of all absorbent fillers, it has the longest life without replacement (for one animal, a small package can last almost a month), and also completely retains odors from the tray during its entire service life. Silica gel does not spread dust and practically does not spread around the apartment (the latter is more related to silica gel filler with large granules). Of the minuses of the silica gel filler, one can mention the reluctance of some cats to use it. The fact is that when the liquid is absorbed, the silica gel emits a characteristic quiet crunch (clicking), which can disturb an untrained or nervous cat. In addition, the cost of silica gel is slightly higher than other types of filler (which, however, is justified by their cost-effectiveness in use). So, the cost of packaging varies significantly (from 150 to 400 rubles) depending on the manufacturer (although the quality of all silica gel fillers is approximately the same).

Kittens are accustomed to any kind of filler. However, it is recommended to choose silica gel (for example, brands WC, Fresh Step, Felicia and others). For example, packs of Fresh Step silica gel filler weighing 1.8 kg are enough for an adult animal for 3-4 weeks without partial replacement or refilling.

Silica gel filler is poured into the tray with a layer of 3-5 centimeters. Liquid animal waste is absorbed into the granules, which reliably "lock" the smell inside. Solid waste should be removed with a sieve scoop (they can be disposed of in the toilet bowl).

When the silica gel filler gets dirty, it will stop absorbing liquid. A complete change of the filler from the tray is desirable, without waiting for the absorption to stop. Cats are very clean animals, so an untimely change of the filler is fraught with a “rebellion” of the animal and a refusal to use the tray. A fairly strong change in the initial color of the fill will indicate the contamination of the silica gel fill in the tray (for example, Fresh Step from bright blue to uniformly dull blue with yellow).

Fillers from grain and corn. Since such fillers are made from products that we are accustomed to perceive as food, most owners consider them inappropriate, fearing that the cat might eat the grain. However, the manufacturers of this product claim that after grinding, the grain acquires an unpleasant taste. In addition, if the cat does eat some filler, it will pass through the digestive tract without any difficulty.

During processing, corn cobs are ground and separated into two fractions, light and heavy. These fractions are fried, made into tablets, which are again crushed and filtered. The resulting product is biodegradable, agglomerates, flushes down the drain and does not generate dust. Such fillers absorb moisture well and are liked by most cats.

Used filler (of any kind) should not be poured into the toilet, this can lead to clogging of sewer pipes. This is especially true for "clay" fillers, as they, among other things, can stick to the inside of the pipes. It's best to place used litter in trash bags and throw them in the chute or bins. Having freed the tray from the contaminated filler, it is necessary to wash the tray with some kind of cleaning agent, since plastic trays, due to the porous structure of the material, can absorb odors. After applying the cleaning agent, the tray should be thoroughly rinsed so that there are no chemical odors that are noticeable to the cat (this can scare the animal away from the tray).

As a "filler" you can use sand or wood flour, but in this case there are traces of particles adhering to the paws that pollute the apartment. In the case of flour, there is a danger that the cat will lick the adhering particles and thereby cause damage to health. Larger material is more suitable - sawdust, shavings or crushed stone. When using wood waste, it must be borne in mind that among them there are poisonous products of chemical wood protection waste.
Cut paper makes a very favorable impression on animals. It has absorbent properties, does not pollute the animal and the environment. It is easy to prepare (old newspapers, paper), easy to change. For hygienic reasons, the use of containers 6 without permanent bedding has a significant advantage if the cat is used to going there as a kitten. Containers lined with artificial coatings are better preserved (after washing and drying with water, they are ready for use again).

How to deal with the smell

If cats had a penchant for philosophical reasoning, the following aphorism would be the most popular among them: “The tray is never too clean.” Therefore, despite the unattractiveness of this activity, daily cleaning of the tray cannot be avoided.

When pouring filler into the tray, try to measure out neither too much nor too little. If you fill too much, the tray will be more difficult to clean, because urine seeps to the very bottom, if there is not enough filler, it will not be able to absorb properly, and it will have to be cleaned constantly. It is best that the filler layer is 3-5 centimeters high, however, this depends on the cat and their number, as well as the type of tray. In short, the thickness of the layer depends on how many times a day you have to remove dirt. If you have one cat, it is enough to do this once a day. When there is more than one cat, cleaning is carried out twice as often, and when kept in groups, even three times more often. Of course, the more often you remove waste, the more filler you will need.

The odor is caused by ubiquitous bacteria. In order to protect your home, and at the same time your cat, from these germs, it is not enough just to remove waste from the tray. If you are using regular non-lumpy litter, you will need to regularly empty and wash the tray and replace the litter at regular intervals of several days; with clumping filler, this procedure is done once a month. Each time, replacing the filler, the tray is thoroughly washed with an antibacterial agent that is safe for animals. There are plenty of cleaning products in pet stores that neutralize odors and contain ingredients that are not harmful to the health of your pets.

If you think the litter box has a persistent odor (because the plastic has pores that retain odors), you should do a general cleaning once a month using diluted chlorine bleach, however, be careful: chlorine vapor can cause poisoning if inhaled or if it gets on the paws, if the cat licks them. Rinse the litter box thoroughly before filling in the litter (if you smell chlorine, your cat will smell it all the more).

There is another way to avoid odor and the spread of bacteria - do not let the fill get wet. After thoroughly washing the tray, dry it properly, and then pour the filler. You don't want moisture to soak into the bottom layer before your cat uses it. Now it is enough to remove waste two or three times a day, and the filler will always be dry. During cleaning, try to scoop up the filler to the very bottom.

Settling in the tray, cats do not always take the correct position. Something can get past the tray and make a mess. In this case, it is enough to thoroughly wipe the contaminated area with a deodorizing antibacterial agent (they are sold in special containers with a small hole in the lid), and then dry with a paper towel. It is useful to have such deodorizers on hand, but it is necessary to dry the floor thoroughly before letting the cat into the room.

However, no matter how you clean the tray, washing becomes useless over time - bacteria penetrate the pores of the plastic and destroy the surface. If possible, the tray should be replaced annually or every two years.

I advise you to stick to one while cleaning good rule: Inspect the contents of the tray carefully. Thus, if any problems arise, such as diarrhea or traces of blood in the urine, you will notice it immediately and be able to take action in time.

Even if you keep your tray spotlessly clean, accidents still happen. Animal with a disease Bladder or intestines, may not have time to reach the tray or leave drops of urine along the way. To clean the floor and get rid of the smell, you need to act without delay. Victory is not easy to achieve, but the sooner you get down to business (especially with urine), the more likely you are to succeed. By allowing urine to soak into a surface (especially carpet), you run the risk of a cat (same or different) using the area as a toilet. Use a cleaner containing enzymes, apply it to the carpet and let it soak in. Enzymes break down urine. Don't forget about odor neutralizers. But do not use odorants that do not break down odorous substances, but mask an unpleasant smell with another, stronger one.

Your task is to get rid of the smell, not to mask it. Thanks to developed olfactory receptors, cats can smell urine even through the most powerful odorants. For this reason, it is best to avoid using ammonia, as its smell strongly resembles that of urine.

"Toilet": choice of location

To place the cat's "toilet" choose places in the apartment that are easily accessible to the cat, easy to clean, ventilate and where no one bothers the cat. The litter box should be in a secluded corner, as cats usually like to do toilet chores "privately". It depends on the specific living conditions whether to put the "toilet" in one place or place it in many parts of the room. If possible, it is better to put the trough in a place where the floor is often washed (in the corridor, in the kitchen, in the toilet). If it is impossible to constantly monitor the place of the cat's "toilet", then the pollution must be washed off in each individual case and the bedding must be changed.

Cleaning the cat's "toilet"

Maintaining the cleanliness of containers for the “toilet” is of great hygienic importance. You need to regularly update the litter, wash the trough itself with warm water several times a day - these are the most important prerequisites for the cleanliness of the animal itself. When changing bedding, the least desirable presence
neighbors.

Destruction of sand and sawdust is connected with great difficulties. In no case should they be flushed into the toilet, they will clog the pipes. Sawdust can be burned in small quantities if a suitable stove is available. Sand, if there is a land plot, needs to be buried deeply. Residents of big cities who do not have such opportunities see the only way out in the dustbin in the yard. But we must not forget about the sensitive noses of housemates who do not always understand the worries of a cat lover! Here, in order to eliminate the smell and not attract flies, it is best to mix the stool with the ashes. In the warm season, you can sprinkle them layer by layer with an odor-eliminating disinfectant. Suitable for this chlorine-containing substances - bleach, chloramine. It is easiest to destroy bedding paper. It should be burned or flushed down the toilet if the water pressure is strong enough. Even more convenient is the “toilet” without coating, which requires a minimum of costs.

Toilet training. Believe it or not, some owners have been successful in potty training their cats. A kit is available from pet stores and catalogs that includes a specially designed seat cover, instructions, and herbs that are attractive to cats. The bottom line is that a lid is installed on the toilet seat, turning it into a kind of tray. A filler is placed inside, which is gradually removed as the cat gets used to it. Over time, the lid is removed, and the cat defecates directly into the toilet, which is very convenient for its owner. You will have to teach her to flush.

Watching a cat sitting on a toilet is pretty funny. This method is more suitable for owners of one or two cats, but is hardly suitable for group keeping. Not every cat will agree to this option. However, not every owner will be delighted because his pet is walking around on the toilet seat.

- self-cleaning cat litter boxes can be left uncleaned at all or cleaned once a week if they only change the filler

In all other trays, it is better to clean solid waste 1-2 times a day.

Liquid waste in cat litter boxes should be cleaned 1-2 times a day, with a complete replacement of the litter

Liquid waste in trays with clumping litter should be removed 1-2 times a day, partially replacing the litter

Liquid waste in trays with silica gel fillers can be removed once every 5-7 days

Liquid waste in a tray without filler should be removed 3-4 times a day

How to properly clean a cat litter box?

The tray for cats without filler should be washed several times a day, the rest of the trays for cats, depending on the desire of the owner: no more than 1 time per week and at least 1 time per month.

It is advisable to wash the cat tray without the use of chemical detergents, especially chlorine-containing ones, because. bleach enhances the smell of cat urine. Rest detergents can, with their pungent smell, discourage the cat from using the tray or cause irritation or allergies in it. In extreme cases, you can use dishwashing detergent.

Scoop for cat litter and other accessories

The use of a special cat litter scoop will make your life much easier. For absorbent and clumping wood fillers, it is best to choose a deep scoop without holes. And for clay fillers more suitable scoop with a mesh at the bottom, so the clay will stick less.

Also, for convenience, you can buy bags or film for cat litter, which should be laid on the bottom of the tray. This will allow you to wash the cat tray less often, in addition, if there is a film / bag, it is easier to throw out the filler that requires a complete replacement and which cannot be thrown into the toilet.

If you have a dry closet for a cat, then about once a month you will have to buy new carbon cartridges to clean the air in the dry closet.

If it seems to you that you know everything about kittens, nevertheless, the basic recommendations on how to care for a kitten will be useful to those who have already dealt with the cat tribe, and those who have got a kitten for the first time.

What to meet with a kitten

English folk wisdom says that, according to the cat, all things belong to cats. There is a grain of truth in this statement. But still, before you bring a kitten, you need to purchase a few things that will belong exclusively to your future "relative". So - a small reminder "How to care for a cat or a cat and what should be bought by the time a kitten appears in the house."

Tray

Natural needs have not been canceled and hardly anyone wants a kitten to relieve himself in an apartment, in a secret corner. Of course, comfort is unknown to street cats, but domestic kittens (and especially their owners) need the right cat tray in the first place.

In short, there are three types of trays:

closed (the so-called eurotoilet);
open with filler;
open without filler with grating;

The first (closed) are aesthetic, but expensive. For this type of tray, you need a gel or silica gel filler that locks in odor. The advantages of this type of tray are obvious - it is behind the scenes, neatness and pleasant appearance. Of the minuses, it should be noted the large size of the toilet, for which there simply may not be a place in the house!

The open type of tray with filler is the most common and, perhaps, convenient for apartments and for a four-legged baby. The recommendations of the "experienced" are unanimous that you do not need to buy a small tray for a kitten. Regardless of age, the baby will overcome the high sides and you will save on the constant change of toilets. So immediately buy a tray "for growth", especially since any fillers are suitable for this type and they are very easy to disinfect.

Tips for purchasing a tray without filler with a grate are addressed to those who are constantly at home and can often rinse the net and the tray itself. Flush the toilet from time to time with special products containing chlorine, and may the absence of smell and a happy kitten arrive with you!

There are also special trays for accustoming a kitten to a human toilet.

In the video, you can learn the general rules for those who do not mind sharing a “white friend” with their animal:

Toilet filler

combs

Yes, a decent kitten should lie on the dressing table, or rather several at once - the rule for caring for kittens. Of course, if your pet is not a sphinx or a charming levkoy. Human hair care products are absolutely not suitable for babies! Plastic combs are also not suitable for them, as they strongly electrify the coat.

Sprays

Caring for a kitten for 1 month will be quite difficult. Until your patience and love develop the acquired instincts in the baby. This can help ... special sprays! They are intimidating or instructive.

You will need the first to protect those places that the cat can damage or to wean her from going to the toilet in the wrong place.

Attractive sprays are good for carrier or house training.

These sprays are completely safe for the animal and very effective!

Carrying

Newborn kittens were initially handled by a breeder. From the moment he gave you the banner of responsibility, you will have to visit the veterinarian regularly. Therefore, carrying is a must. It can be fabric or plastic (depending on the size, temperament of the cat and the geography of transportation). For those who are going on a journey by train or plane, a hard plastic carrier is needed, while traveling in a car is comfortable with a soft carrier.

By the way, while the first trip is still only looming in the future, it is convenient to use the carrier as a house for the baby. Put in it a diaper that smells like his first home and the kitten will feel safe in the carrier.

Toothbrush and paste

Dental and gum problems in cats often lead to serious illnesses. Your baby's oral cavity needs to be taken care of from a young age. Otherwise, then this procedure will be painful for everyone.

Beef or salmon flavored toothpastes, handy brushes should stop possible problems with teeth. Caring for a cat that has been accustomed to procedures from infancy is very easy.

The video below is a short dental course:

Kitten nutrition

Everything that is not forbidden is allowed. In fact, this is the basic rule for compiling a cat menu. But centuries of coexistence of people and cats have given rise to a lot of gastronomic myths. Care and feeding (and especially feeding) is an area of special responsibility. The approach to nutrition must be scientific - this is the main rule for caring for kittens. Thoroughbred kittens or their not so aristocratic counterparts are equally important to the correct menu!

What should not be fed to a kitten?

We warn you right away - there are many prohibitions and some of them will surprise you very much. So, for example, we recommend forgetting about such a "popular" milk. The cat's body simply does not digest it and you will often have to remove the products of indigestion from the tray.

In addition to milk, kittens should not:

bones (chicken, fish);
pork, goose, duck;
sausages, smoked meats, salinity;
sweets in any form;
potato;
legumes;
fish;
egg white;
salt, spices.

What should a kitten be fed? natural nutrition

And again we warn you right away - the food from your table is not suitable for a kitten. Be prepared for the baby to cook separately. So, what can and should be included in the diet of a kitten:

raw frozen beef;
boiled chicken meat;
beef or chicken offal;
egg yolk;
milk porridge (only for babies up to 3 months);
dairy products;
cereals;
raw or cooked vegetables.

And all this is not salty, warm and, of course, fresh!

Ready feed

Experts believe that ready-made industrial feeds significantly save time on preparing breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner for a kitten. In addition, they are well balanced and with such nutrition it is not necessary to give the kitten additional vitamins.

Small animals are fed only dry ready-made food (canned food - only for adults!)

clean kitten ears

brushing teeth

We wrote about this procedure above. We only add that too often the baby does not need to brush his teeth. Once a month is enough.

Combing wool

Wool (if any) is needed regularly, once or twice a week.

These breeds do not require complex care. Regular cleaning of the ears, teeth and eyes, gentle combing and cleaning of the oral cavity - and the kitten is in order!

How to care for a cat so that its coat is of high quality? You will have to run with a tambourine, that is, to observe a certain complex ritual. Firstly, arm yourself with an arsenal of combs, and secondly, remember the instructions for caring for a long-haired pet:

we collect the fallen hairs with a brush-mitt;
with a rare comb, comb the wool in the direction of growth;
with a frequent brush we go through problem areas (stomach, panties);
powder the wool. Voila - a kitten can be sent to a beauty contest!

Kitten adaptation

The optimal age to pick up a kitten is 3 months. His immune system has already strengthened, his intelligence is developing, his appearance is also visible.

How can you make your child accept your home as their own? Be prepared to help him with this for the first 3-4 weeks.

On the first day of the kitten's stay in the house, limit his space to one room. , sniff and only then introduce him to the rest of the territory.

Kitten game

In games, kittens develop better, they perceive their playmate as their friend, so do not be lazy to spend 15-30 minutes daily playing with the baby. Some kittens are even better trained after. Toddlers who have been played with as children are more cheerful than those gathered who have not been paid attention to.

Friendship with a dog or another adult cat

To begin with, animals need to be introduced. The advantage of a kitten is that it smells like childhood and an adult animal will sooner or later accept it anyway. During the first meeting, avoid direct contact. Lock the animals in different rooms, and then swap places. So they get used to each other's smells.

Then once again arrange a "confrontation". If there is no conflict, then consider that friendship will definitely take place.

Kitten and baby

Too much Small child may inadvertently hurt the kitten. Therefore, contact should take place under the supervision of an adult. Grown up children need to explain the rules of playing with a kitten. By the way, the latter should also feel the limits of what is acceptable.

Conan the Barbarian or the Destroyer Kitten

"The cat can purr out forgiveness for anything." However, the destruction that the baby arranges is not at all small. To prevent damage, you can paste over the furniture with double-sided adhesive tape, put valuable items at a height inaccessible to the baby, remove flowers and frames with photographs higher.

Limit the kitten's passage in hard-to-reach places and, as an alternative to trimming the claws, put special tips on the claws.

Kitten health

Kitten deworming

Flea control

Vaccination

IMPORTANT! you need both animals that live in the yard, and those who do not leave the apartment. Both the first and second can equally get sick, so it's better to play it safe.

Kittens are vaccinated at the age of 8-9 weeks. In this case, vaccinations that do not contain the rabies virus are used.

Revaccination is carried out when the kitten is 12 weeks old. This complex vaccine already contains the rabies virus.

The next revaccination takes place already in a year and then once a year.

The scheme may vary slightly. Your veterinarian will suggest the best one.

Sterilization / castration of an animal

If you are ready for the fact that the kitten, growing up, will begin to "mark" the territory, demand a cat (cat) and regularly "bring it in the hem", then you can not read further. If this prospect does not please you, then let sterilization / castration be the most humane way to solve many future problems.

Best at 9-10 months of age.

It is necessary before the first estrus, this is about 8 months of age.

At the end of this chapter, we will tell you about the signs that mean that the cat has started. So, what should you always pay attention to? Reasons to visit a veterinarian are: poor appetite, poor weight gain in a kitten, vomiting, bloating, diarrhea, "leaky" eyes, pale gums, cough or shortness of breath, nasal discharge, difficulty urinating.

At first glance, it seems that keeping a kitten is very, very difficult. In fact, this is a very pleasant thing, because the word "content", with the regular implementation of all our recommendations, will disappear from your diet and they will become just a way of life. And, believe me, when the fluffy ball settles on its knees and starts its endless: “Murrrrr”, you will say that it was worth it!

Lyudmila Antonova "Care for domestic cats";
Elena Filipova "From the point of view of a cat."

Still have questions about how to care for a kitten? Write them in the comments.

The cat was about to settle down in the tray, but suddenly backed away and completely left the room, leaving his master in complete bewilderment. The man didn't smell anything, unlike the cat, who decided that the carpet was much more hygienic than a tray that hadn't been cleaned for several days.

You're right, it's an unpleasant experience. Cat owners often say they don't want to house their pets because the thought of having to clean the litter box scares them. But is the opportunity to avoid this unpleasant duty worth the risk to which you expose the cat by letting it out? In addition, there are so many new things in the field of cat hygiene these days that cleaning the litter box should hardly be considered a heavy burden.

First, let's discuss your relationship with the cat. By not letting your pet out of the house, you force him to rely on you for everything. The cat cannot, as she would do on the street, choose for her toilet appropriate place, therefore, it is your duty to equip a corner that will respond to her instincts and make her feel comfortable.

You are the only person who has to decide where the tray will be, what model, what filler, how many trays you will need, and what to do if your pet suddenly refuses to use the tray. And it is you who is the person who is obliged to clean it regularly. But if, when making a choice, you will consider only your own desires, ignoring the needs of your cat, then she will decide for herself where to go if necessary.

Tray fillers

We know that cats are not alike, and so are the brands of litters created with a variety of preferences in mind. Cats are meticulously clean and will sometimes refuse certain litter for reasons that you may not understand. However, given the range of commercially available, you can always choose the filler that will earn the approval of your cat.

Clay fillers

For some time, traditional clay filler was the only product available on the market, and the only remedy for the smell was baking soda, which the owners dusted the tray on top. Now the range of clay fillers has expanded significantly: both natural, odorless, and containing granules of flavors and deodorants are on sale.

Clay fillers are inexpensive and are available in a wide range, which makes them the most affordable for the consumer. However, they have two disadvantages that are often mentioned: the clay stains the cat's paws and spreads throughout the house, and the granules can be dusty, which causes allergies in some cats. By laying a piece of old carpet near the tray, you will get rid of dirty marks. These days, some companies make mats to help clean cat paws, and dust-free clay fillers are on sale.

If you only have one or two cats, clay litter is your best bet, especially if you're on a budget. However, traditional clay litter is not always suitable for group housing, even if it contains the most effective absorbents. Despite the fact that a substantial amount of waste is removed from the trays daily, the traditional clay filler does not allow the contents of the tray to be partially removed. Every three to five days (depending on the number of cats) you will need to completely change the litter and wash the litter box.

Clumping fillers

Nine out of ten cats will agree that clumping litter is the best choice. It was invented in 1984 by a biochemist named Thomas Nelson and has become the most popular one on the market today. Such a filler is treated with chemicals, due to which the clay sticks together into a lump when moisture enters. It is enough to remove the lump from the tray so that there is no urine residue or smell left in it.

Just like traditional clay fillers, their clumping varieties are commercially available in a wide range. There are options that don't produce dust, leave no residue, are designed specifically for group housing, deodorized, contain special crystals, soda, and many other combinations. Clumping fillers - optimal choice for group keeping of cats, since such a filler allows you to quickly remove waste, including urine.

Clumping litters are more sandy in texture than other litters and are favored by the vast majority of cats. At first, clumping fillers were the most expensive on the market for similar products, but now their prices have dropped significantly. I have found that quality clumpy litter costs only a dollar or two more than regular litter, but is well worth the extra expense because the clumps don't fall apart when you scoop them up.

Indeed, if the tray is cleaned irregularly, some fillers (usually the most inexpensive ones) form a cement-strong mass that sticks tightly to the bottom of the tray. If the clay is allowed to dry, it becomes very difficult to remove it. Sometimes during cleaning, the lumps crumble and fall back into the tray. When choosing a clumping litter, take the time to experiment and find a brand that suits both you and your cat.

The most commonly cited disadvantage of clumping litter is that it tends to stick to cats' paws and leave marks on the floor, but brands have now appeared to avoid this problem. The granules of such a filler have a relatively large diameter and are less likely to get stuck between the toes of the cat's paws.

Can you count on removing clumps to save yourself the hassle of washing the litter box and completely replacing its contents? Of course no! Bacteria is still present in the litter box, so for the sake of your pet's health and a clean environment in the house, you should clean the litter box regularly and completely replace the litter.

Silica based fillers

Fillers of this type exist in different options depending on the combination of their constituent substances. They are made from silica, a porous substance that absorbs urine and odor. I admit that such fillers are quite expensive, but the manufacturers claim that for one cat a small package is enough for a whole month. In addition, they claim that this product is the most powerful absorbent that holds odor reliably.

Indeed, such a filler lasts longer than clay or clumping, but only if only one cat lives in the house. My experience shows that for the owner of three or more animals, this option is far from ideal.

Varieties of this filler are commercially available that combine clumping clay with silica and sometimes soda, such as "Arm & Hammer Crystal Blend Cat Litter". Personally, I like this brand the most. The absorbent properties of a flint base are combined with the advantages of clumping clay. In addition, this filler is the most comfortable for cat paws.

Filler from shavings and sawdust

In fillers of this type, cedar and pine sawdust are most often used. Cedar absorbs odor well, and sawdust fillers are environmentally friendly. But although waste wood litters, especially cedar, are convenient for group keeping cats, they do not form lumps and therefore you have to clean the tray and replace the litter more often than when using clumping litter.

However, science does not stand still, and based on the latest scientific data, a new generation of fillers from wood waste has been created. So pine sawdust does no damage environment, and pine naturally binds the ammonia contained in the urine and thereby eliminates the smell. The tray is easy to clean, the sawdust does not contain chemicals, does not stain the cat's paws, and therefore rightfully claims to be the safest product.

However, some cats reject sawdust litter because it pricks their paws.

Grain and corn fillers

Since such fillers are made from products that we are accustomed to perceive as food, most owners consider them inappropriate, fearing that the cat might eat the grain. However, the manufacturers of this product claim that after grinding, the grain acquires an unpleasant taste. In addition, if the cat does eat some filler, it will pass through the digestive tract without any difficulty.

During processing, corn cobs are ground and divided into two fractions, light and heavy. These fractions are fried, made into tablets, which are again crushed and filtered. The resulting product is biodegradable, agglomerates, flushes down the drain and does not generate dust. Such fillers absorb moisture well and are liked by most cats.

Recently, a filler made from whole threshed grains has appeared in the assortment. It forms lumps and does not cause discomfort in the cat's paws. It is fragrance- and oil-free, flushes down the drain and decomposes easily. I have not yet had the opportunity to test this novelty, since it has not yet been widely used, but you can purchase such a filler in Petsman stores or through the Internet.

Newspaper filler

Sometimes, for the first time after the operation to remove the claws, it is recommended to use crushed newspapers as a filler, but they are not suitable for long-term use. Instead, conservationists can use litter made from recycled paper. During the manufacturing process, printing ink is removed from the paper, so you can not be afraid that it will remain on your cat's paws and a chain of dirty footprints will stretch around the house. Such a filler absorbs moisture well and is washed off into the sewer in small quantities.

The recycled paper litter is soft and lightweight, so it's best for sensitive paws, so if your cat has recently had surgery (declawing or other paw-related procedures), you can't go wrong.

How to make the right choice

The range of fillers is so wide that it can be difficult to make a decision. However, much more important is that with such a wealth of choice, each cat can be created comfortable conditions.

Sometimes fillers are mixed so that the consumer can take advantage of the benefits of one without sacrificing the benefits of the other. My cats, for example, prefer clumpy litter, and I love that the litter box is so easy to clean. However, some cats feel that it does not absorb the smell enough (if you have several cats living in your house, they may prefer different types filler). But nothing will stop you, having filled the tray with one filler, pour a thin layer of another, softer one on top of it.

It is best to find out by experience what kind of filler or what combination of them will appeal to your pets and will be convenient for you. The cat will tell you what she likes and what she doesn't like. She has a very affordable way to tell you about her decision - she will simply stop using the tray. A disgruntled cat will rather go to the toilet on the floor next to his crate.

Tray

Of course, you will need a special container to pour the filler into it. Tray range various designs almost not inferior to the variety of fillers for them. Which litter box is best for your cat? The answer depends on its nature, your own preferences, the availability of space in the house, and where you install the tray (or trays).

If you have a kitten, it's best to start with a small open litter box and change to a larger litter box as the kitten grows. You should not buy a large tray for a small kitten. The kid will have to constantly make efforts to get into the box, he may decide that the game is not worth the candle, and will choose another place for his affairs.

Manufacturers have developed a wide variety of accessories to make cleaning the tray easier. Some companies make trays with removable parts that allow you to sift the litter into a reserve tank, so that you can then easily remove the waste. In these trays, any type of filler can be used, although clumping is best.

Some owners (as well as their cats) prefer closed trays. They allow the cat privacy, contain the spread of smell and prevent the litter from scattering, which is important if your pet likes to dig in the tray for a long time. Trays come in a wide variety of shapes, including those that can be installed in a corner, many of which are equipped with a filter to absorb odors.

DIY

Sometimes it's nice to feel like an inventor and make a tray with your own hands instead of buying a ready-made one in a store. In its original form, this tray was a cat bed in which not a single cat agreed to sleep. However, no one objected when a structure made of durable plastic and suitable in size was offered to them as a toilet.

However, not all cats appreciate privacy, many of them refuse to use a closed tray. I don't know if cats are claustrophobic, but some animals are deeply disgusted at the very idea of having to squeeze through a narrow opening to go to the toilet (often these cats do not like to sit in a carrier, so it is quite possible that they really are claustrophobic ).

If you decide to purchase an enclosed litter box, and your cat has agreed with this choice, be sure to clean it daily. Due to the fact that the smell is almost not felt from the outside, and the dirty filler is not as conspicuous as in an open tray, you can easily forget that the tray needs to be cleaned regularly. In most cases, the cat will simply refuse to use the dirty litter box and hint that it's time to clean it out by leaving you a "note" somewhere on the floor.

In addition to closed ones, there are trays on sale, the entrance to which is equipped with a plastic valve that closes inward and prevents the cat from scattering the litter. In this case, you again need to make sure that the cat wants to use the tray of this design and can easily enter and exit it.

Self-cleaning trays have only been on the market for a few years, but few people I know use them. In such a tray, the filler is sieved mechanically and enters the pallet, which can be easily removed for washing. Many fear that the cat may be injured or frightened by the noise from the included mechanism. I interviewed the owners of these trays and they assured me that they had no problem. Thanks to its design, the machine stops at the slightest touch. In addition, the machine "waits" for about ten minutes after the cat comes out of the tray, and turns on only after that. Self-cleaning trays are designed for lumpy litter because the so-called “rake” only picks up lumps. This tray is not recommended for kittens.

As for the price, the first self-cleaning trays that appeared on the market cost about $200. Not everyone could afford such a purchase. The price has now dropped to $100, and the tray can be purchased online even cheaper.

Trays-dryers are equipped with an aeration system and a removable bedding that absorbs and dries urine, preventing odor formation. In such trays, special fillers in the form of pebbles are used - they must be washed periodically. Dryers are quite expensive and are distributed through catalogs and over the Internet. However, by purchasing such a tray, you will constantly save on the filler.

Whatever type of litter box you choose, make sure it is the right size for your cat, and that she is able to use it and enjoy doing so.

Where to install the tray?

As a rule, cats, like people, prefer secluded corners for their needs. When choosing a place for the tray, you need to take into account this feature, as well as the availability of free space in the house and your personal preferences.

What if you set up the litter box in a basement or other area that your cat rarely visits? Chances are the consequences of this decision will be seen throughout the home, especially if the cat's digestion is upset due to stress, illness, or an inappropriate diet. However, if your pet often looks into the basement to hunt for spiders (or find another equally interesting activity), then it is quite reasonable to install the tray there.

If you have more than one cat, and you have a spacious home, it will be useful to install several trays in different places. For three or more cats, one tray is definitely not enough. In this case, the only tray will be a serious test for the nerves (both yours and your pets).

It is important to remember that you should choose a quiet place for the tray away from sources of noise, the cat's "dining room" and "bedroom". At the same time, the cat should not have difficulty visiting the tray, and she should do it willingly. Make sure that the cat knows where its toilet is, to do this, pick it up and bring it to the tray.

For obvious reasons, the tray is often installed in the bathroom. Usually this is a quiet and uncrowded room (except on days when you receive guests - then the cat, along with the tray and other accessories, should be moved to another room), and if you use filler that can be washed down the drain, the process of cleaning the tray is greatly simplified.

There are many tricks to hide the tray in such a way that it is not conspicuous, but the cat would be able to reach it at any time when she needs to. You can install it under the kitchen sink (provided that the cabinet is spacious enough and you do not use it to store household chemicals). Most pet product companies make decorative screens designed to hide the litter box.

With imagination and basic carpentry skills, you can hide the tray in a special house. In this case, it is important to make sure that there is enough space for the cat, and that the structure opens easily not only to let the cat in, but also so that you can remove the tray. It is best if you make a hole on the side where the screen or screen will be fixed, or come up with some other way to remove the smell. Otherwise, the house will be saturated with smell, and the cats will most likely refuse to use the tray.

Children like to play in the sandbox, among them there will surely be those who decide that the best sandbox is a cat box - it is at home and always at hand. Try to choose a place for the tray where children cannot reach it, such as a closet or a separate room with a door that closes tightly. Of course, in this case, you will have to think about how the cat will enter this room. A special cat hole can be purchased at a pet store or you can make your own.

There are many interesting and unusual tricks to hide the cat tray. It is not forbidden to come up with something new, just take into account two basic requirements: the tray should be easy to remove for cleaning and be accessible to the cat. Finally, you can follow my example - just place open trays in different corners of the house, without resorting to any disguise, and keep them immaculately clean.

How to deal with the smell

I think that if cats had a penchant for philosophical reasoning, the following aphorism would be the most popular among them: "The tray is never too clean." Therefore, despite the unattractiveness of this activity, we cannot avoid daily cleaning of the tray.

I have been breeding for many years sea fish so I sometimes have to bleach the corals. I know that in order to get rid of the smell of chlorine, the coral must be taken out into the sun, because under ultraviolet rays the chlorine evaporates. This procedure is not harmful to do with the tray. After rinsing the tray as thoroughly as possible, take it out into the sun and leave it for the whole day. When even the slightest smell disappears, rinse the tray again (an extra precaution never hurts), dry it, and only then pour the filler. It's a good idea to have a spare tray to use while cleaning.

I advise you to adhere to one good rule during cleaning, which I myself follow strictly: inspect the contents of the tray most carefully. Thus, if any problems arise, such as diarrhea or traces of blood in the urine, you will notice it immediately and be able to take action in time.

Even if you keep the litter box spotlessly clean, accidents still happen. An animal suffering from bladder or bowel disease may not be able to make it to the litter box or leave drops of urine along the way. To clean the floor and get rid of the smell, you need to act without delay. Victory is not easy to achieve, but the sooner you get down to business (especially with urine), the more likely you are to succeed. By allowing urine to soak into a surface (especially carpet), you run the risk of a cat (same or different) using the area as a toilet. Use a cleaner containing enzymes, apply it to the carpet and let it soak in. Enzymes break down urine. Don't forget about odor neutralizers. But do not use odorants that do not break down odorous substances, but mask an unpleasant smell with another, stronger one.

Your task is to get rid of the smell, not to mask it. Thanks to developed olfactory receptors, cats can smell urine even through the most powerful odorants. For this reason, I advise you to avoid the use of ammonia, as its smell strongly resembles that of urine.

Toilet training

Cat on the toilet? Believe it or not, some owners have been successful in potty training their cats. A kit is available from pet stores and catalogs that includes a specially designed seat cover, instructions, and herbs that are attractive to cats. The bottom line is that a lid is installed on the toilet seat, turning it into a kind of tray. A filler is placed inside, which is gradually removed as the cat gets used to it. Over time, the lid is removed, and the cat defecates directly into the toilet, which is very convenient for its owner. You will have to teach her to flush.

Tray problems

Sylvester, that was the name of one neutered cat who did an excellent job with the tray until new cat. Suddenly, he began to defecate on the carpet, and sometimes on the clothes left in the basket. When a new cat enters the house, this sometimes happens, this behavior can last for several months, until the new cat joins the team and acquires a familiar home smell.

Territory marking demonstrated by Sylvester is just one of the many reasons why a cat suddenly forgets about cleanliness skills. Tray abandonment is a fairly common behavioral disorder; This is also the main reason why owners give their pets to a shelter. At some point in their lives, 10 percent of cats develop problems related to uncleanliness.

Finding the reason why a cat refuses to use the tray and suddenly stops visiting it is not easy. The first step along the way should be a trip to the vet. Often, cats with urinary tract disease (see Chapter 8) associate the litter box with the discomfort caused by the disease, as pain occurs every time they nestle in it to urinate. A negative association with the litter box leads to the fact that the cat begins to see in it the cause of his troubles and refuses to use it.

If the veterinarian rules out a health problem, you will need to do a little research. If your cat suddenly decides that she likes the Persian carpet more than the litter box, think about the reason for this behavior and try to eliminate it. Here are some of the most common cases.

Tray

The reason may be the size of the tray, its design, and even the material from which it is made. Some cats feel uncomfortable in a closed litter box or are intimidated by a self-cleaning litter box, so if you recently purchased a new litter box that your cat has refused to use, you have two options:

1. Abandon innovation and return to the old tried-and-true tray that has served you faithfully.

2. Try to accustom the cat to a new tray. In this case, you will have to regularly pick her up, bring her to the tray and gently put her in it to show that she has nothing to fear. Try to calm the cat with gentle words and in no case hold back if she wants to run away. If this procedure is repeated often, in the end, the cat will understand that the tray does not threaten her, and get used to it.

In addition, the cat may not like the material from which the tray is made. Those that go on sale are almost always made of durable plastic that cats do not object to. However, I have had to deal with situations where the owners fit objects that are not intended for this under the tray, for example, metal pans or boxes (wooden or cardboard). Such a tray is not to the liking of cats and is difficult to clean. If the material of the tray seems suspicious to the cat (because of the smell or the sensation that occurs when touched), she may reject the tray. In any case, the litter box should be made of a material that is easy to clean, since, as mentioned above, cats often refuse to use the toilet if it seems not clean enough or smells.

Filler

Some litter containing deodorant or treated with a special aerosol irritates the olfactory canals, and sometimes the skin on the paw pads. As a result, the cat may avoid the litter box in favor of a more comfortable corner, such as your favorite carpet. Try switching to a regular, dust-free, deodorant-free, and fragrance-free filler.

If you decide to change the filler, remember that cats do not always welcome innovations. I know of cases when, because of the new filler, cats began to bypass the tray. To avoid such problems, I gradually, over several days or even weeks, add new filler to the old filler and thereby give the cats the opportunity to get used to it. It is possible that you will have to return to the old filler if your wards do not approve of the change.

In a new place

A cat that has recently entered your home may not know where the litter box is at first. That is why in the early days it is absolutely necessary to regularly remind her of this.

If you have moved the litter box to a new location, the cat may also become confused. If at first he stood in the bathroom, and then he was taken out into the corridor, the cat can go to the bathroom in the old fashioned way. In such a case, it is necessary not only to show her where the toilet is now, but also to make the old place unattractive or inaccessible (see the section “Training and retraining” later in this chapter).

Territorial conflicts

In this situation, cats mark their territory with urine, for which they squat, taking their usual position, or turn their backs to a vertical surface, such as a wall. Territory marking is an instinctive behavior. In the wild, cats mark the area that they consider their own. In a sense, this is a way of communication - in this way the cat informs its relatives that it is better for them to stay away from its territory.

The cat marks the territory even if it considers that its possessions are threatened by a competitor. Don't count on your pet not showing these behaviors just because they don't go outside. Feeling the need to mark his territory, he will not limit himself to visiting his tray.

The introduction of new people, smells, and other animals into the home, especially cats, can encourage your pet (especially a pet) to delineate the boundaries of their possessions. Your cat may splatter urine on objects or even clothing that smell unfamiliar or that of another cat. She is not always aware of what prompts her to do so, but she will not deviate from her principles.

If outside cats have taken to walking around your home, your pet will be tempted to claim territory. Even if uninvited guests are outside the house, and your cat never goes outside, she smells them and can send them a "fragrant" message. Cats often leave their marks near windows or doors.

If you did not castrate your pet before reaching puberty (i.e. before six months of age), then a cat that smells a nearby cat during estrus, or this cat itself, may leave marks in order to announce its presence, or the animal wants to declare to fellow tribesmen about the rights to the territory. To avoid such troubles, it is usually enough to castrate the cat before the first manifestations of such behavior, and the cat - before the first estrus, however, sometimes even neutered cats leave marks. As a rule, when the cat considers that the threat to its possessions has passed, it stops the marking behavior.

Fear

A shy cat may suddenly stop using the litter box. If some event that frightened your pet happened near the litter box, the cat will consider the litter box the cause of his fear and will not want to approach it.

Timid by nature or oppressed by their fellow cats, they are constantly on their guard and sometimes do not risk moving away from their shelter, much less visiting the tray used by other cats. It is better for such cats to provide their own tray, setting it closer to the place where they prefer to spend time.

Stress

It is important to remember that stress is the most likely cause of unscrupulous behavior.

Sometimes the departure of the owners causes a kind of separation anxiety in the cat, which she demonstrates by leaving puddles in the wrong place. After retiring, my stepfather often left home for two or three days. From time to time, his cat Sylvia left him "notes" in a sleeping bag. Thus, she made it clear that she did not want to put up with separation. It's pretty unusual way to express his affection, but how else can a cat say to its owner: "Do not leave me, because I am so attached to you."

Jealousy

This feeling always goes hand in hand with stress. One of the most common stressful situations is the appearance of a child in the family, diverting the attention of the owners, which until now belonged undividedly to the cat. New marriage or acquiring a new pet can also cause your pet to be disapproved of as inappropriate behavior. If your cat is going to face life changes, try to prepare her for them well in advance. For example, even before the baby is born, show your pet what small babies and baby care items look like. If you are going to get married, invite your future spouse home more often so that he has the opportunity to get to know the cat in advance. Ask him (or her) to leave some clothes at your place so that the cat gets used to the smell of a new person.

Stray and wild cats

If a cat was born and raised or has lived on the street for a long time, she may not know what the tray is for, especially if she has been used to using the earth in these cases since childhood. You will have to gradually but persistently retrain your pet. It is best to choose filler with small, sand-like granules, in addition, at first you can pour ordinary earth into the tray, gradually replacing it with filler. In such a situation, it is especially important to keep the tray clean.

Competition

How many cats do you have? Some animals disdain a tray that other cats visit. When purchasing trays, you should proceed from the number of cats and take into account how well they get along with each other. Some of my own cats do not fit into the hierarchy of the house and avoid using litter boxes with other members of the group. To avoid misunderstandings, I installed separate trays for my two pets, which are mainly used only by them.

Some experts recommend purchasing one litter box for each cat. it good advice, if you have two or three cats, and each of them prefers a certain tray. But what if you have seven, twelve or more animals? Of course, you don't want to fill every inch of free space in your home with trays! I am convinced that it is quite enough to have one litter box for two cats, provided that one of them does not need a separate toilet.

Dirty tray

Everyone knows the pedantic cleanliness of our pets. In addition, their sense of smell is much thinner than ours. Each cat reacts differently to a clean litter box. Some people are fine with having a small amount of waste in the litter box, but I've known cats that wouldn't go anywhere near the litter box unless it was spotlessly clean. In this case, they preferred the floor, next to the tray. Cleanliness tips have been detailed in the How to Deal with Smell section.

Tray space

It is equally important to choose the right place for the tray. Some cats need privacy. If their tray is installed in a room where people often go, they may prefer a nook in the bathroom to it. Others from childhood get used to the fact that the tray is in a strictly defined place. If it is moved, the cat, by inertia, will continue to visit the place where it stood before. If you have to move the litter box, move it gradually, bringing it a little distance each time, or keep your cat away from where the litter box used to be until she gets used to the new location of her litter box.

Tray dimensions

Who said size doesn't matter? Not cats when it comes to the litter box. Too small a tray can seem cramped and uncomfortable for a cat. If it is too large, a kitten or older cat may have difficulty getting in and out of it.

Read more in the book Christine Church "The Cat in Four Walls" published by the Sofion publishing house in 2006. http://www.sofion.ru/catalog/detail.php?ID=1161

Z You can also order a book in our online pet shop Petsovet - http://www.petsovet.ru/catalog/books/element.php?SECTION_ID=347&ELEMENT_ID=2029

How to wash a cat's tray and how to clean it from a urinary stone? A huge number of owners of domestic cats and especially cats are looking for the answer to this question every day. For those who do not yet have a fluffy pet, but the thought of the need to acquire a new friend has not left for a long time, such knowledge will also not be superfluous.

First of all, future owners study information about the rules of nutrition and keeping animals. But in the realities of life, they most often face not so much these difficulties as the problem of the smell coming from the cat's pot. This will especially complicate the life of those who keep the animal exclusively at home, not letting it out at all. Daily washing of the feces collection tray eventually ceases to get rid of the stench, and the “cat spirit” is already felt far beyond the bathroom. This happens not because the tray is not washed, but because it was done incorrectly. The reason for the increased smell may also be the growths of the urinary stone.

For a comfortable neighborhood, you need to learn as much as possible about the proper care of cats and their toilets. The nuances of washing and the secrets of preventing odor will be revealed in this article.. Choose the right option for you and enjoy living together with a fluffy and mustachioed purring lump!

Cat litter care

Caring for a cat litter box is not difficult. The main actions of the owner of a cat or cat are:

timely cleaning of solid feces of the animal;
regular change of bedding soaked from urine in the container;
tray washing.

If all actions are performed regularly and to the fullest, then the animal will not urinate by or do it in unintended places.

Animals from the feline order are quick-witted and have an excellent memory. Their habits include burying their waste products in the ground so that "enemies" cannot find them by smell. That is why cat litter is poured into cat litter. Also, by smell, they find pairs for procreation, mark and limit "their" territory, and kittens, thanks to a heightened sense of smell, find a tray and get used to visiting it. And that's why adults ignore piss-offs that are mismanaged by pet owners.

Eating disorders, stress, age-related changes in the body of the animal and other external factors lead to the fact that the urine of the animal becomes caustic and salts are formed in it. Fresh deposits can be removed when replacing the filler, but uric acid or oxalates can only be removed mechanically.

My by the rules

Proper washing of the cat tray is a guarantee of freshness and a pleasant smell in the apartment. The sequence of actions of this process depends entirely on the design and shape of the operated cat litter.

Open type trays need to be cleaned more often than closed type devices. Daily cleaning generally does not require a complete change of litter, it will be enough to collect the excrement and then dispose of it in accordance with the recommendations indicated on the packaging with the desiccant mixture.

If the cat relieves itself not in the filler itself, but on the grate, then it is recommended to wash it with each cleaning. For this purpose, it is desirable to use special products designed for sanitizing cat litter. The action of such funds is aimed at the complete sanitation of cat litter, so the substance can easily cope with the smell of urine and prevent salts from settling.

General cleaning of the cat litter is carried out in the order listed below:

We empty the tray. Unused filler (especially silicone) can be collected in a separate container and reused.
We fill the tray with warm water “up to the ears”, and soak the grate in a separate container.
Leave the tray with water for ten minutes, and then rinse it and drain the water from the pan.
We lower the tray and the grate into a basin with soapy water, after which we leave them there for half an hour.
After the time has passed, we drain the dirty water and treat the surface of the cat litter with a detergent composition, and then with three brushes.
Thoroughly rinse off the soap residue and rinse the containers clean.
We wipe the tray and grate dry or dry it in the fresh air.

Despite the fact that a cat or a cat is undoubtedly a favorite, and caring for them is not a burden and does not cause disgust, all work on disinfecting a cat's tray should be done exclusively with rubber gloves. This will not only protect the skin of the hands from exposure to household chemicals, but also protect against toxoplasmosis. This disease is especially dangerous for pregnant women. Its causative agent, getting into the body of a future mother, can cause deformities and other abnormalities in a child in the womb.

To wash all parts of the tray, you can use traditional detergents and chlorine-containing substances (Domestos, Whiteness and others), as well as special compounds that eliminate the smell of cat urine. When disinfecting the toilet with special chemicals you can not be afraid of the formation of urinary stones on the surface of the container. Sprays and powders not only eliminate simple dirt and the specific smell of urine, but also fight pathogens.

If you do not have such means, then you can wash the trays with laundry detergent or any detergent compositions, including improvised ones. But as a result of this, everyone will inevitably have to face other problems. Read about them and their solutions below.

Clearing urinary stone

Often the owners of cats and cats wash the tray only so that it does not smell. But at the same time, they forget that untimely or incorrect cleaning of the tray, as well as the use of unsuitable surface treatments, lead to the deposition of urinary stone. The manifestation of this unpleasant phenomenon is:

fetid smell;
plaque, palpable as rough to the touch growths;
refusal of the animal to visit the tray.

An animal that urinates in a tray with stone deposits will carry the “aroma” throughout the apartment on the pads of its paws. To avoid the transfer of urine, and with it the possible infection, attention should be paid to the fight against natural salts.

It is possible to wash the urinary stone various means, among which are:

special designed for processing cat litter;
traditional, used for washing toilet bowls and for removing urinary stones;
folk, such as vinegar, baking soda and ordinary laundry soap.

Stone removal with household chemicals is quick. Active substances that react with salts destroy the structure of the latter and turn them into a soft substance. All that needs to be done when cleaning the cat litter box is to apply the product, strictly following the recommendations, and then rinse it off with plenty of water.

The rules for the use of the above improvised substances will be discussed in the table.

Substances	How to use?
table vinegar	The substance is heated to a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius and a tray is poured into it so that all rough places are covered with an acidic liquid. The exposure time depends entirely on the degree of contamination. With weak deposits, one hour is enough, while old salts can dissolve in no less than three hours. After the time has elapsed, the vinegar is drained, and the tray is cleaned with a stiff brush and abrasives. After the tray becomes smooth to the touch, it should be rinsed with warm water and wiped dry.
Baking soda	It is used for mechanical removal of stones and disinfection. Dry baking soda poured into a pre-washed container, and then with force, using a sponge, rub the deposits with them. The cleaned container is washed with warm water and dried outside.
Laundry soap	The substance is used to prepare a soap solution. To enhance the effect and speedy dissolution of stones, it is recommended to add soda ash to the composition. Laundry soap is dissolved in hot water, and then they fill the container right size. The parts of the tray overgrown with deposits are immersed in the vessel and left to soak for about a day. After the specified time, the tray will need to be rubbed with the hard side of a dishwashing sponge, and then rinsed with water or water with vinegar.

In addition to the above substances, many cat owners say that you can easily wash the tray with dry mustard powder. It is applied to wet plastic and then rubbed with the hard side of the sponge over the entire surface of the urine collection tray. This method will help not only remove stones, but also remove caustic marks left by the cat on various surfaces.

Do not use products containing ammonia to clean cat litter! This substance smells like urine. The animal will perceive the tray as dirty and, as a result, will relieve itself in any other place convenient for it.

In conclusion of the article on the rules for washing the cat's tray, I would like to draw attention to helpful tips admirers of "indoor" cats. They relate not so much to the washing process itself, but to the rules for using devices and choosing adsorbents.

Do not use the tray without filler! Accustom the animal to adsorbents from early childhood, otherwise you cannot avoid the stench in the room. If the kitten does not like one hygiene product, then replace it with another until you decide on the most comfortable option for everyone.
Always fill the trays with only quality absorbents and mixtures. The best choice will be substances without flavorings.
For toilets of adult animals, do not use "baby" mixtures and compositions, as well as fine fillers.
Give small kittens a mix that won't attract their attention and won't be used as a toy (or worse, eaten!).
Keep the cat litter box clean and collect feces in a timely manner.
Do not save on the quality of the tray, because the product of the lowest grade will quickly become overgrown with stones and exude amber.
Do not add citrus-scented deodorants to your refill mixes, and do not use citrus-scented household products.
Control the animal's diet, do not save on vitamins and visit the veterinary clinic regularly.

One of the life hacks is the use of a garbage bag as a bedding under the filler (as in the photo). This method has proven itself in the fight against unpleasant odors, urinary stone deposits. It also greatly simplifies the disposal of used filler. But this method is suitable only if the cat does not scratch the filler much or when using a grate.

Summing up the article, I would like to note the fact that cat litter trays have a limited service life. If an unpleasant odor remains after washing and completely replacing the filler, then this means that the “X” time has come. Cheaper models of pots typically need to be changed about once every twelve months, while more modern devices need to be changed every three years.