Knitting how to cast on loops. How to cast on a stitch on knitting needles. How to cast on loops on knitting needles - the one-thread method “Air loops”. A set of loops for different products. "Turkish" set of loops

Types of loops and their conventional notation in pattern repeat:

• Two or more loops together with a knitted stitch
• Three loops together, having previously swapped the second and first loops

Set of loops of the initial row

Knitting a product or sample begins with a set of loops of the initial row. The loops are cast on two knitting needles placed together. This is done so that the loops of the initial row are easily stretched and it is easier to knit the loops of the next row.

There are many options for a set of loops - from one thread, from two, thickened yarn over, with fringe and others. You should select the type of set that best matches the knitting pattern. Let's look at a few more common methods.

The simplest set

Starting knitting, you need to cast on the main loops. This set is formed using two knitting needles connected together. Measure a thread three times longer than the intended width of the product and place it on the index finger of the left hand so that the thread coming from the ball is between the index and middle fingers. The end of the thread, from the palm side, is wrapped around the thumb.

The threads are held in the palm of the hand, and the thumb and index fingers are moved away from each other. Take two knitting needles in your right hand and insert them under the thumb loop from bottom to top. Then grab the thread on the index finger and pass it through the loop on the thumb (Fig. 202, A).

The loop is removed from the thumb and the thread thrown over is pulled to the knitting needles (Fig. 202, B). The first main loop is formed.

The casting continues, the knitting needles are first placed under the loop on the thumb, then they grab the thread on the index finger and pull it through on the thumb, the thread is evenly tightened on the knitting needles (Fig. 202, B).

Set of loops with one thread

This set is used mainly when forming buttonholes or along the edges of a product, continuing any protrusion.

Knitting with a knitting needle is held in the right hand and with the index finger of the left hand, a loop is thrown onto the knitting needle (Fig. 203). In this way, the required number of loops is cast on.

Decorative set

The decorative set is used in the erasers of mittens or in the collars of jackets and jumpers. It is formed as follows: the yarn intended for casting on is folded in half, then bent in half and knitting needles are placed in the middle. So in the middle the yarn is quadrupled.

Three threads are placed on the thumb, one thread on the index finger, the knitting needles remain in the middle (Fig. 204, A). The loop is cast on in two steps.

First, as in a simple set (Fig. 202), the knitting needles are inserted under the loop on the thumb, the thread on the index finger is grabbed, and under the thread on the thumb, the knitting needles with the new loop are pulled to the starting position (Fig. 204, B). The second time, the thread is wrapped around the thumb from the side of the palm against itself and the knitting needles are inserted into this loop from above under the thread of the palm.

Using the tips of the knitting needles, the thread from the index finger is pulled through the loop of the thumb, the loop from the thumb is dropped and the thread is not tightened too tightly (Fig. 204, B).

Double knitting set

Double knitting is done on a colored thread, which is then removed. At the end of the yarn a loop is formed into which a knitting needle is placed - the thread is on the index finger.

There is a colored thread on the thumb. The knitting needle is placed under the colored thread, then the yarn is grabbed from the index finger (Fig. 205, A).

Each subsequent loop is cast on like this - first pass the knitting needle under the yarn on the index finger, then under the colored thread and from the yarn of the index finger a loop is cast on the knitting needle (Fig. 205, B).

The first row is knitted as follows: 1 stitch is removed without knitting (thread behind the knitting needle) and 1 loop is knitted in knit stitch (Fig. 205, B).

In each subsequent row, the removed and knit stitches are swapped (Fig. 205, D).

Basic loops

The arc around the knitting needle forms a loop (Fig. 206). The loop has front and back walls, and the lower arc between the two loops is called a broach. The simplest and the basis for other loops are knit and purl loops.

The front loop can be formed in two ways: tying from the front or back wall. Knitting a knit stitch behind the front wall is considered “classic”. Usually in the literature, the knit stitch refers to this particular method of knitting, of course, unless there is a stipulation that it should be done differently.

Knit loop knit as follows: the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop in front of the front wall on the left knitting needle, the thread is grabbed under the knitting needle of the right hand and pulled through the loop. The new loop remains on the right knitting needle (Fig. 207 A).

Purl loop , just like the front one, can be knitted in different ways. The right knitting needle is inserted into the loop from right to left under the front wall. The thread is grabbed from above and pulled through the loop (Fig. 207, B), the new purl loop remains on the right knitting needle.

There are other ways of knitting knit and purl stitches, but they produce a good pattern only from knit and purl stitches. When knitting other types of patterns, the loops lie in a different direction than with the “classical” method of knitting knit and purl stitches.

Planar knitting

Sweatshirts, jumpers, scarves, scarves and other products are knitted on two knitting needles, one row is knitted from right to left (the front side of the product), and the other back (the wrong side of the product). Therefore, if it is necessary to obtain the front stitch, then knit there with facial loops, and back - purl - with purl loops.

Figure 208 shows the front and back sides of knitting.

Cylindrical knitting

When knitting socks, mittens, skirts, jumpers on five or ring needles, there are no reverse rows. When knitting on five knitting needles, first cast on two knitting needles folded together as many stitches as are intended to be knitted on one knitting needle, then pull one knitting needle out of the set, fold them together again and cast on for the second knitting needle. Do the same with the third and fourth knitting needles. When the required number of stitches has been cast on 4 knitting needles, use the fifth knitting needle to start knitting in the round.

Start knitting

Face knitting forms a one-sided pattern. This knitting is also called stockinette, the front side is the stockinette stitch, the back side is the purl stitch.

If the product is started with the front or back stitch, then in both cases the edge is wrapped on the front side. Therefore, usually the product starts with a double-sided pattern that does not curl.

If the product is supposed to be knitted in knit stitch, then the bottom edge is knitted with cloves or purl stitches.

1 way: knit 5-10 rows in satin stitch, then knit one front row like this: 2 loops together with a knit stitch, 1 yarn over (the thread is placed on the knitting needle away from you, (Fig. 211). Then knit the same number of rows in stockinette stitch as there were before the openwork row. The cast-on chain is placed on an additional knitting needle and the product is folded along the line of the openwork (teeth). Before each loop, one loop of the cast-on chain is placed on the knitting needle and knitted together with a knitting loop. Make sure that the loops coincide vertically, otherwise the edge of the product will be skewed. If desired, the edge You can not knit it, but hem it.

Method 2: knit 5-10 rows in stockinette stitch, then one row on the front side is knitted with purl stitches, then knit the same number of rows in stockinette stitch as before the purl row. Along the purl row, the knitting is folded and tied or sewn in the same way as in the previous case. Then the facial pattern is continued.

Having learned how to knit just two types of loops (knit and purl), you can master any type of knitting. First, the simplest and then more complex patterns can be found in the “Patterns” section.

Edge or edge loops

The edge loops do not participate in the pattern repeat. After counting the loops for the pattern, regardless of their number, two more loops are added, which serve only to form the edge.

The edge of the product can be knitted smooth (in a pigtail) or with knots.

Smooth edge (Fig. 209, A).

1st method. When starting to knit a row, the edge loop is re-slipped, with the working thread in front of the knitting needle. The last edge loop is knitted.

2nd method. When starting to knit a row, the edge loop is re-slipped, with the working thread in front of the knitting needle. The last edge loop is knitted purlwise.

Edge with knots (Fig. 209, B).

When starting to knit a row, the edge loop is re-slipped, with the working thread behind the knitting needle. The last edge loop is knitted.

Fastening the loops

After finishing knitting the product or sample, the last row of open loops is secured. There are two ways to do this.

1st method- using a knitting needle (Fig. 210). The first edge loop, as usual, is transferred to the right knitting needle unknitted. The next stitch is knitted, then the previous stitch is pulled off with the end of the left knitting needle, and pulled through the knitting needle with the right knitting needle. After this, the pulled loop is dropped and everything is repeated all over again until the end of the row. The thread is broken and pulled through the last loop, thereby securing the knitting.

2nd method- using a needle. Leave the end of the working thread approximately three times longer than the fabric to be closed and thread it into the needle. The needle is passed into the outer loop of the last row of loops from the front side to the wrong side, then into the 2nd loop from the wrong side to the front side and the working thread is pulled through these three loops. After this, insert the needle into the 1st loop from the front side to the wrong side and into the 3rd loop from the wrong side to the front side, etc.

With this way of fastening the loops, the last row stretches just as well as when fastening the loops with knitting needles, but pigtails are not formed.

Types of loops and their conditional recording in pattern repeat

Face loop (Fig. 2).

The end of the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop on the left knitting needle from left to right, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop toward you.

In the repeat of the pattern write: 1 front.

Front crossed loop (Fig. 3).

The end of the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop on the left knitting needle from right to left, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop toward you.

In the repeat of the pattern write: 1 face crossed.

Purl loop (Fig. 4).

The thread is placed on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread and into the loop from right to left, grasping the working thread in front of the knitting needle and pulling the loop away from you.

In the pattern repeat write: 1 Purl.

Purl crossed loop (Fig. 5).

The thread is placed on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread and the loop on the left knitting needle from back to front from left to right, grab the working thread in front of the knitting needle and pull the loop away from you.

In the repeat pattern write: 1 Purl crossed.

Knit two or more stitches together (Fig. 6).

The right knitting needle is made into two or more loops on the left knitting needle from left to right, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop towards you.

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: 2 knit stitches together.

Two or more loops together with a knitted loop (Fig. 7).

The right knitting needle is made into two or more loops on the left knitting needle from right to left, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop towards you.

In the rapport of the pattern they write: 2 faces crossed together.

Two loops together, the first one is turned (Fig. 8).

Using the end of the right knitting needle, first turn the first loop on the left knitting needle, and then knit it like two loops together with the front one crossed.

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: 2 knit stitches together, the first one is turned.

Two or more loops together with a purl loop (Fig. 9).

The thread is placed on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread into the loops on the left knitting needle from right to left, the working thread is grabbed in front of the knitting needle and the loop is pulled out.

In the repeat of the pattern write: 2 together purl.

Two loops together with a purl crossed loop (Fig. 10).

The thread is placed on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread into the loops on the left knitting needle from back to front from left to right towards you, grab the working thread in front of the knitting needle and pull out the loop.

In the repeat of the pattern they write: Two together, purl crossed.

Three loops together, having previously swapped the second and first loops (Fig. 11).

Using an additional knitting needle, the second and first loops on the left knitting needle are swapped so that the second becomes the first and, when knitting the loops together, covers the edge ones. Knit the loops as with the front crossed stitch.

In the pattern repeat, write down: 3 together, swap the second and first.

Yarn over (Fig. 12).

With the end of the right knitting needle, grab the working thread from top to right to left towards you. Hold the loop thrown onto the knitting needle with the index finger of your right hand and knit the next loop.

In the repeat of the pattern they write: yarn over.

To form an openwork and add a loop in the next row, the yarn overs are tied with a front or back loop.

When knitting a yarn over in the next row with a front crossed or purl crossed loop, the openwork is not formed, only a loop is added.

Reverse yarnover (Fig. 13).

With the right knitting needle, grab the working thread from the bottom left to the right of you. Hold the loop thrown onto the knitting needle with the index finger of your right hand and knit the next loop.

In the repeat of the pattern write: reverse yarn over.

To form an openwork, the next row of yarn overs is knitted with a knitted or purl crossed loop.

When knitting a yarn over in the next row with a knit or purl loop, the openwork is not formed, only a loop is added.

Double yarn over (Fig. 14).

Make two yarn overs with the end of the right knitting needle. To add loops in the next row, the right yarn over is knitted with a knit stitch, and the second yarn over is knitted with a purl loop.

In the repeat of the pattern write: 2 yarn overs.

Air loop (Fig. 15).

Form a loop from the working thread and throw it on the right knitting needle.

In the pattern repeat write down: 1 air loop.

Loop from the underlying row (Fig. 16).

The end of the right knitting needle is inserted into a loop located one or several rows below the one being knitted, the working thread is grabbed and the loop is pulled out. The loops located above the newly formed loop are dropped or knitted, depending on the pattern.

In the repeat of the pattern write down: 1 knit from the loop of the underlying row.

Loops from the space between the loops of the underlying row (Fig. 17).

The end of the right knitting needle is inserted under the horizontal thread between the loops of the underlying row, the working thread is grabbed and the loop is pulled out.

In the pattern repeat, write down: 1 knit from the space between the loops of the underlying row.

Two are knitted from one loop (Fig. 18).

The loop on the left knitting needle is knitted twice - once with a knit stitch, and the second with a purl loop, after which it is dropped from the knitting needle.

First, knit the second loop with the front one crossed behind the knitted pattern. Without removing it from the left knitting needle, knit the first loop, then discard the loops from the left knitting needle.

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: First, the second loop behind the knitting needle, then the first.

Move the loop with a tilt to the right (Fig. 21).

First, knit a second loop (or purl) in front of the knitted pattern. Without removing it from the left knitting needle, knit the first loop (or purl), then discard the loops from the left knitting needle.

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: First, the second loop in front of the knitting needle, then the first.

Move several loops with a tilt to the left (Fig. 22).

When moving several stitches, the order in which they are knitted changes. The required number of loops is retaken with additional stitches. knitting needle and leave it in front of the knitted pattern. Then several loops are knitted in the usual way, after which loops with additional stitches are knitted. knitting needles

In the pattern repeat, write down: 2-3 loops are removed for additional stitches. knitting needle in front of the pattern.

Move several loops with a tilt to the right (Fig. 23).

Loops for moving are re-shot for extra. knitting needle and leave it behind the knitted pattern. Then knit the required number of loops from the left knitting needle, then knit loops with additional stitches. knitting needles

In the pattern repeat, write down: 2 loops are removed for extra. knitting needle behind the pattern.

An elongated loop (Fig. 24 A and B).

If the loop is transferred unknitted from the left knitting needle to the right one, then it will occupy two rows in height; If this loop is left unknitted in the next row, it will increase even more, that is, it will stretch out. The working thread, depending on the pattern, will pass behind or in front of the elongated loop.

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: 1 loop is retaken, the working thread behind the pattern (Fig. 24, a) or:

1 loop is retaken, the working thread is in front of the pattern (Fig. 24, b).

If several loops are removed in a row and in several rows, then pieces of thread are formed that can serve as decoration for the front side of the product. Then one of the loops of the previous row is knitted under the pieces of thread (Fig. 25).

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: 1 front (purl) under the pieces of thread.

An elongated loop with a double crochet (Fig. 26).

Yarn over and then slip the loop unknitted from the left needle to the right. The working thread is on the knitting needle along with the removed loop.

In the repeat of the pattern, write down: yarn over, 1 loop is retaken (Fig. 26 a).

In subsequent rows, depending on the pattern, you can re-slip the loop and yarn over unknitted, having first made a yarn over.

In the pattern repeat, write down: 1 yarn over, yarn over and loop again (Fig. 26 b).

In subsequent rows the yarn over and loop are knitted.

In the pattern repeat write down: 1 knit stitch together with yarn overs (Fig. 26, c).

Wrapping loop (Fig. 27).

The right knitting needle is directed into the gap between the loops on the left knitting needle (for example, between the 3rd and 4th), grab the working thread from front to back and pull out a long loop. Depending on the pattern, it is knitted in the same row with the next loop or in the next row, while maintaining the number of loops cast on.

In the pattern repeat, write down: pull a long loop from the gap between the 3rd and 4th loops.

Enlarged loops (Fig. 28).

The right knitting needle is directed into the loop and two or more turns (yarn overs) are made clockwise, depending on the pattern, and then the loop is pulled out.

In the pattern repeat write down: 1 enlarged knit stitch with two yarn overs.

In the next row, the yarn overs are dropped, due to this the loop increases.

Loops with stitches (Fig. 29).

With the right or left knitting needle, depending on the inclination of the stitch, pick up the desired loop (according to the pattern, it can be enlarged, elongated, etc.), pull adjacent loops into it and transfer it from the knitting needle to the loops. The thrown loop looks like a stitch.

In the repeat of the pattern they write: the first two are pulled into the 3rd loop.

Descriptions of patterns often repeat the knitting of the previous row.

In the rapport of the pattern they write down: knit according to the pattern. This means that they do the knitting not as the rapport is written in the previous row, but as they see it when knitting the row, i.e. if they see the knitted loop being knitted, then they knit it with the front one, if purl, then they knit it purl.

If yarnovers are found, but it is not indicated how to knit them, then they are knitted on the front side - with a knit stitch, on the back - with a purl loop.

There are many ways to start knitting. The choice of one edge or another depends on the future product... “You can master any knitting techniques you like, know how intarsia differs from aran and skillfully apply this knowledge. But if you don’t pay enough attention to the inlaid edge, the intarsia will be of no use.”

This truth was revealed to me when, conjuring over another sweater, I could not bring the character of the main pattern and the inlaid edge into line: the second did not want to harmoniously complement the first, and the first did not want to be a logical consequence of the second.
Actually, this was the motivating reason for collecting a collection of “beginnings”, which I will gradually make public.

Normal way

Some cast-ons are based on already cast-on stitches, cast on "normally".
I will describe the “usual method” that I usually use.

We stretch the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, leaving a tail that is approximately three times larger than the future width of the canvas. The thread of the ball goes through the index finger.
We place a pair of knitting needles under the stretched thread and press the thread against the knitting needles with the index fingers of the right hand. We move the thread with the knitting needles towards us...

...move it under the thread coming from the thumb, then under the thread coming from the index finger and back under the thread from the thumb.

As a result, we get two loops on the knitting needles.

Each consecutive repetition of the movements recorded in photos 1 and 2 will add one loop to the knitting needles.
A fairly elastic edge with a delicate appearance, which makes it almost universal. However, as my readers rightly point out, in popular places they quickly lose their appearance due to abrasion:

BULGARIAN BEGINNING

We cast on the loops in the usual way, leaving a tail length of about the number of loops * 4 cm:

We work with knit crossed stitches, knitting each pair of stitches on the left needle as one. The working thread is a double thread, consisting of the thread from the ball and the remaining tail:

The first two loops have already been knitted with one knitted stitch, but have not yet been removed from the left knitting needle.

At the end of the row, we leave the tail thread - we won’t need it anymore.
We knit the next row with facial loops using only the thread from the ball.
The last row of the set: we knit purl stitches over the loops of the previous row, and knit stitches from the broaches between them.

The very broaches from which the facial loops are supposed to be knitted are marked.

Ready.

As a result, we get a decorative, embossed, not too elastic set.

ITALIAN SET

We take a thread of a contrasting color, a hook of a suitable size and knit a rather loose chain of air loops. The number of loops in the chain is calculated as follows: if you need N loops for work, the length of the chain should be N: 2+1 loops.

We put aside the hook, take a knitting needle and cast on loops on it using the following sequence of steps: one loop is knitted from the chain as a knit stitch, yarn over with a thread from a ball, knit from the chain again, yarn over again, etc.

Having completed the row, we connect the second knitting needle to the work: we knit all the yarn overs of the previous row with knit stitches, and remove all the knit yarn overs (now we see them as purl ones) as in purl knitting, leaving the working thread before work.

We will knit three more rows in this mode.
It is curious that a side effect of such knitting is the cavity that is formed between the many knit stitches and the many slipped stitches: if all the knit stitches of one row are removed on one knitting needle, and all the slipped loops of the same row are removed on another, then we will get two parallel fabrics.
A side effect with great potential!

The contrast thread unravels.

The cast-on edge - with neat teeth, absolutely elastic - is ready.

OPEN HINGE SET

THE QUESTION IS OFTEN ASKED: is there such a set that (both ours and yours) can then be knitted in both directions? For example, I knit a dress, pick up stitches and knit from the waist level, for example, and then somehow contrive and knit a skirt down from the initially cast on stitches. Relevant when you need to shorten a skirt, for example, and the dress is knitted at the bottom.

It turned out that there is, but not just one.

First way

We stretch the thread between the thumb and index finger of the left hand so that the thread from the ball goes through the index finger and position a pair of knitting needles relative to the thread in the indicated way.
We transfer the thread from the thumb with a turn of the wrist between the knitting needles and throw it onto the far knitting needle.

We return the hand to its original position, and throw the thread from the index finger onto the nearest knitting needle and carry it between the knitting needles.

Winding up the above-described “eights” should lead to the following result:

It is worth noting that the stitches on the two needles will be oriented differently: one needle will have a continental orientation, the other will have an English orientation. When working, they will need to be adjusted depending on your knitting style.

Second way

Another method of knitting in both directions requires a hook and thread of a contrasting color.

Take a hook, take a contrasting thread and knit a chain of the required number of chain stitches.
We put aside the hook, take a knitting needle, the main thread and begin to knit the front loops from the back walls of the loops of the chain.

Next, the desired pattern is made on the cast-on loops.

To start knitting in the opposite direction, the chain of auxiliary thread is unraveled...

...and the resulting loops are carefully placed on a knitting needle, observing their orientation.

Both methods give identical results: in the fabric, the place where you started knitting with the second knitting needle is absolutely invisible:

LIFTED EDGE IN THE FORM OF A CORD

A universal set that gives a strong elastic edge - be sure to try it in your work!

Make a slip knot on the left needle.
We knit the resulting loop with a knit stitch, which, without removing the knitted loop from the left knitting needle, is placed on the left knitting needle.

We place the right knitting needle in the gap before the last loop of the left knitting needle and knit a knitting needle from it, which, without removing anything from the left knitting needle, is again placed on the left knitting needle.

Continuing to knit the front loops from the gap between the loops, we find that a twisted cord begins to form along the bottom of the work and note with satisfaction that we are on the right track.

Having thus collected the required number of loops, you can begin knitting the desired pattern.

This cast-on edge is interesting because it can be used not only as the beginning of knitting, but also as a way to cast on additional loops on the side of the knitted fabric.

STALLED EDGE WITH FESTONS

To complete this unusual set, you need to stock up on a pair of knitting needles and a crochet hook.

We put one knitting needle and a hook together, and cast on this pair in the usual way the required number of loops, depending on the desired width of the scallop (I decided to stop at ten).

Place the next loop only on the hook...

...and pull this loop through the previously cast on loops.

We transfer this loop to the knitting needle, and use it to hook the first loop of the scallop (pay attention to the color marking).

We put the knitting needle and hook together again and cast on the next scallop.

We work in the described manner until the required number of scallops appears on the knitting needle.

We turn the work and knit the next row with the required pattern, casting on the required number of loops in the first row inside each scallop (it seemed to me that three would be enough). You can use yarn overs or the same cord method.

Colored dots - yarn overs inside each scallop

We get a beautiful decorative edge, almost inelastic.

STALLED EDGE WITH FRINGE

A very interesting set: the fringe will be strong, in the form of loops or, if cut, a strand.

Starting position: the thread from the ball is on the index finger, the tail lies in a loop on the thumb.
We put two knitting needles together, guide them under the thread on the thumb...

Next, we grab both threads on the index finger and lead them into the loop on the thumb.

We drop the thread from the thumb and tighten the knot with the thread coming from the ball.

We drop the thread from the index finger (this is the first loop of the fringe), send it to the right hand, at the same time placing the thread from the ball in front of it. If necessary, adjust the length of the loop by tensioning the tail.

Again we guide the knitting needles under the thread on the thumb, grab the loop on the index finger, etc.

To adjust the length of fringe loops, it is convenient to use a cardboard or plastic template. I was too lazy to make a template - the loops didn’t turn out exactly the same.

The result of casting on will be a row of double loops on a knitting needle. In the next row you can begin knitting the planned pattern, knitting each double loop as one.

STAINED EDGE WITH TRIPLE THREAD

In fact, this is the same usual method, with the only difference that it involves a triple thread.

So, take the thread from the ball and fold it in three.

We throw the triple thread onto the thumb of the left hand so that the loop of the triple thread is between the thumb and index finger, and the thread going from the triple thread to the ball goes through the index finger.

We insert the knitting needle into the loop of the triple thread...

... we pull it towards ourselves, then, according to the usual method, we go under the loop on the thumb, hook the thread on the index finger from bottom to top and return back to the loop of the thumb.

The edge assembled in this way has a noticeable edge, moderately elastic and quite decorative. Of course, it is far from the Bulgarian concept, but this set cannot be called universal.

MACHINE EDGE

A tight, even edge is what you get as a result.

Starting position: the working thread is stretched between the thumb and index fingers of the left hand. The thread from the ball passes through the index finger.

Moving from left to right, place the knitting needle under the thread, turning the knitting needle slightly inside out. The edge loop is obtained. In further work, we hold it with the thumb or index finger of the right hand in order to avoid unnecessary displacement.

We dive the knitting needle under the thread coming from the thumb, catch the thread on the index finger and draw it back under the thread of the thumb. This is the rule for casting on all knit stitches.

We direct the knitting needle under the thread going to the index finger, catch the thread of the thumb, which we bring back under the thread of the index finger. This is the rule for casting on all purl stitches.

Make sure that the loops do not twist, and that the interlacing threads securing them lie strictly under the knitting needle.

It is worth noting that the use of the concepts of front and back loops in this case is very conditional.
Purl stitches are called loops with a “pad” at the bottom (they are marked in red in the photo), knit stitches are all the rest:

Alternating between knit and purl stitches, cast on the required number of stitches. The last stitch cast on should be the knit stitch.

Let's turn the work around. We knit the first loop as an edge loop.
The next stitch is a knit stitch, but it is oriented incorrectly relative to the continental knitting method. We knit it with the front one crossed, and remove the next purl one without knitting, leaving the thread before work.

We work like this until the end of the row.

Let's turn the work around.
The orientation of the knit stitches has been corrected, so we knit the next two rows according to the following rule: knit stitches over knit stitches, purl stitches removed without knitting, thread before work.

After trying this set, you will definitely notice that the first four rows give a rather voluminous edge. To avoid contrast, cast-on rows are knitted with knitting needles of a smaller diameter.

TWO-COLOR SET

At the ends of the yarn of both colors we make a slip knot.

We send the knitting needle with knots to the left hand, with the right knitting needle we knit the first loop of the left knitting needle with a knitting stitch with a thread of a contrasting color.

We continue to work with the same color. Let's yarn over...

...knit the remaining stitch on the left needle in the same color.

Return the last knitted stitch to the left needle.

The thread of the color we have been working with so far is behind the work. We move it forward between the knitting needles.

The thread that is still unclaimed - on the contrary, we transfer it back between the knitting needles and make a yarn over with it.

We knit the loop of the left knitting needle with it.

We return the last knitted loop back to the left needle, etc.

To with “etc.” There are no difficulties, let’s go through the pictures in the sequence “return the loop - move one thread - move another thread - knit the front one” using the following loops as an example:

Ready set.

In the next row you can begin knitting the selected pattern. I, succumbing to the rhythm of the cast-on edge, performed a two-color satin stitch.

Any knitting begins with a simple technique - a set of loops on the knitting needles. There are many options for casting on loops, which, when successfully combined with a knitting pattern, make your product especially attractive. I suggest you learn twelve ways to cast on loops. The choice of stitch casting option should correspond to the type and purpose of the main knitting. For example, for knitting an elastic band (it is assumed that the edge must be elastic so that the elastic stretches well, while the edge must keep its shape, and, of course, be attractive), method No. 3 and No. 5, No. 8 are suitable. I tried in each type set of loops, indicate which type of knitting it is most suitable for.

So, let's start with the basics. Any set of loops begins with the first loop, which is knitted the same way in almost all types. To begin with, you need to take a comfortable body position: bend your arms at the elbows and hold them freely, without tension. The most convenient position is when the ball is at the bottom, so that it does not roll, it is advisable to place it in a box. To do this, take the thread from the ball into the left palm. The length of the hanging end of the thread should be approximately twice the width of the intended fabric for which the loops are cast on.

Hold the working end of the thread in the palm of your left hand, the thread passes along the index finger and wraps around the thumb in a loop. The threads are held in the palm of your hand, and the thumb and index fingers are moved to the sides under the loop, then the thread is grabbed with three fingers:

Then, when casting on the loops of the initial row, two knitting needles are folded together, their ends are inserted into the loop on the thumb, they grab the thread lying on the index finger and pull it into the loop on the thumb. After this, the knitted loop is removed from the thumb:


So we've completed the first loop! Congratulations!

Methods of loop sets:

Traditional (simple) set

Set of loops with fringe

"Bulgarian beginning"

"Air" set of loops

"Turkish" set of loops- 2 ways

Openwork set of loops

Set of loops from the center

Traditional (simple) set

Traditional casting on is the most common type of stitch casting when knitting. It can be used when starting to knit any product. With this method, after casting on the loops, you can start knitting the fabric with the chosen pattern from the very first row.

To do this, take the thread from the ball into the left palm. The length of the hanging end of the thread should be approximately twice the width of the intended fabric for which the loops are cast on.

Two knitting needles folded together are inserted into the loop on the thumb, pick up the thread lying on the index finger, and pull it into the loop on the thumb. After this, they drop the loop from the thumb and use their index fingers to help tighten the resulting loop on the knitting needle.

Holding the index finger of your right hand, lower the resulting loop with the knitting needles down towards you. Then perform the same movements as when forming the first one. There will already be two loops on the knitting needles. The next loops are performed in the same way as the second.

To prevent the bottom chain from twisting around the knitting needles, hold each new loop with the index finger of your right hand.
This is what a traditional set looks like!

Decorative set of hinges with thickened edge

In this set of loops, the edge of the fabric is cord-like, creating the impression of a decorative edge. This type of set can be used when knitting mohair products - to strengthen the lower edge of the knitted fabric.

After casting on the stitches from the first row, you can begin knitting the fabric with the chosen pattern. Thus, the loops of the initial row are formed from the main thread, and the lower chain is formed from a thick, double (or triple) thread.

To make the thread twice as thick, the main end of the ball is folded in half.

On the fingers of the left hand, the threads are positioned so that the main one is on the index finger, the thick one is on the thumb, and loop A is between the index and thumb (b).

Two knitting needles folded together are inserted into loop A under the main thread (c). Loop A and the main thread on the knitting needles are the first stitch of the set. Holding it with the index finger of your right hand, lower the knitting needles down towards you. Next, the set of loops is performed in the traditional way (d).

If you make such a set with triple thread, there is one secret: how to knit with triple thread from one ball :

Fold the thread three times (photo 1). When knitting, hold the thread so that the loop formed during folding is always in the direction of the end of the knitting needle. When we knit until the moment at which the loop remains very small and the triple thread ends, we pull the thread from the ball into the remaining loop, as shown in photo 4, and continue knitting further. The essence of this trick is that you don’t need to wind three threads into one ball, or, even worse, knit from three balls, but you can knit from one ball, and as many as you need!

a decorative set of loops with a thickened edge looks like this:

Loop-loop set - non-elastic

This edge does not stretch and holds its shape well. It can be used to start knitting, to increase stitches in groups, as well as to make buttonholes. After casting on loops from the first row, you can knit the fabric with the chosen pattern.
As in the previous method, the free end of the thread here serves to form only the first loop, which is made with one knitting needle in the traditional way. Then the knitting needle with the loop is left in the right hand, and the free knitting needle is taken in the left hand.

Throw a working thread onto the left knitting needle, grab the thread behind the left knitting needle with the right knitting needle and pull it into a loop located on the right knitting needle (b). The first loop has formed on the left needle.

Place the thread on the left needle again and pull it into a loop on the right needle.

The required number of loops is cast on the left knitting needle, while on the right knitting needle there will always be one loop, which should be relatively long so that it is easy to pull the thread through it. At the end of the set, the loop from the right knitting needle is transferred to the left knitting needle.

This is what the set looks like:


The edge of the product (pigtail) made with this set looks very neat and decorative. No further edge processing is required.

Set of loops with fringe

The fringed edge is used for knitting mittens, scarves, and trimmings for children's and women's products. After casting on loops from the first row, you can knit the fabric with the chosen pattern.

Cast on two loops as if forming a thickened edge, then make 2-3 turns of thickened thread for the fringe. Alternate like this, making turns after each pair of loops. Finish the set with two loops. To form a fringe, one row is knitted: each loop is knitted in knit stitch, and the yarn overs are dropped from the left knitting needle (from which the fringe is obtained).

Italian set of loops with auxiliary thread

The Italian cast-on is a method of casting on loops in which the edge, while remaining elastic, looks impeccable, ideal for knitting cuffs and panels in 1 x 1 rib (= alternately 1 knit stitch, 1 purl stitch) and patent patterns.

So, for the work we need the main thread [the thread with which the product is knitted (white in the photo)], an auxiliary thread [maybe a regular thread of a contrasting color, but I prefer to knit with an elastic thread (pink) and not remove it], knitting needles in 2 sizes.

Important: the initial row and the next 4 rows are made with thinner knitting needles - one full size smaller than those used to knit the main fabric. First perform the first loop, as when casting on loops in the main way (Fig. 1. A, B, C, D).

1. Wrap the working thread around the index finger of your right hand. Place the auxiliary thread (the length of the auxiliary thread is equal to twice the width of the finished knitted piece) around the thumb of the left hand. Hold the ends of the thread with your right hand.

If it’s too complicated, you can make it simpler: take two threads (auxiliary and main) and tie it on the right knitting needle with ONE knot, but so that it can then be moved along the knitting needle and subsequently untied.


2. Next, perform the following actions in the specified order until the required number of loops is reached:
A. Place the auxiliary thread in front of the knitting needle, bring the knitting needle under the auxiliary thread and pick up the main thread in the direction of the arrow;
B. Place the knitting needle under the auxiliary thread and grab the main thread in the direction of the arrow.
Let's turn it around, we got the following.

3. We begin to knit the loops of the initial row in the following sequence:

A. The loop in front of the auxiliary thread is knitted;
B. The loop behind the auxiliary thread is removed, while the working thread is pulled in front of the loop.


4. In the next two rows, we knit the front loops with the front ones, remove the purl loops, as in purl knitting, and pull the thread in front of the loops.

5. Then we switch to thicker knitting needles and continue working with the corresponding pattern. An auxiliary thread (if it was just a thread of a contrasting color, you can remove it, if the thread is an elastic band, pull it up to the required length and the second end of the thread, on the first (as you remember, there is already a knot) if we knit it on circular knitting needles, untie the knot, pull the thread , we tie the threads together):

In the end, we got it (option on circular knitting needles)

Loop-loop set - elastic

The edge formed in this way stretches well, so it can be used both to start knitting and to add a large number of loops in a row, to expand the fabric.

After casting on the loops from the first row, you can start knitting the part with the selected pattern.
It is usually difficult to determine the length of the end of the thread for casting. In this embodiment, the free end of the thread is needed to form only the first loop, which is made with one knitting needle in the traditional way.

Then the knitting needle with the loop is taken in the left hand, and the free knitting needle in the right. Knit a loop with knit stitch and leave it on the left knitting needle (Fig. a).
The newly extended loop is also put on the left knitting needle (Fig. b).


There were two loops on the left needle. Knit the second loop in knit stitch and leave it on the left knitting needle.
The newly drawn loop is put back on the left knitting needle. And so they continue to cast on the required number of loops.




This method is very convenient for beginning needlewomen, as it does not require calculating the length of the auxiliary thread and is very simple to perform.

"Bulgarian beginning"

It is also called a “cruciform set”. The edge of the product made in this way looks very impressive. This set of stitches works well for knitting 2x2 rib.
A raised edge is formed by casting on stitches and the first three rows. They begin to knit the intended pattern after completing three rows of selvedge.
Cast on two loops on the knitting needles in the usual way, but with a thicker edge.


To cast on the third loop and all subsequent odd loops, change the location of the thickened thread on the thumb and, when casting on, insert two knitting needles under the thickened thread from the inside of the thumb (Fig. 2). Cast on even loops as shown in Fig. 1. Thus, changing the location of the thickened thread on the thumb, cast on an even number of loops.

The loops in this set are arranged in pairs, with the exception of the edge ones. Remove one knitting needle from the loops and knit one row of purl loops with a single thread, knitting each double loop separately. Next, knit the front row of the selected pattern.

This is what the “Bulgarian beginning” looks like.

"Air" set of loops

This method of casting on loops is used to obtain a thin edge in products, to add group loops at the edge of the fabric and when knitting some patterns.

Take one knitting needle and the thread from the ball in your right hand. Pass the thread between the middle and ring fingers of your left hand and place the loop over your thumb in a clockwise direction. The set of loops is made by sequentially removing the loops from the thumb onto one knitting needle. When casting loops onto a knitting needle, do not tighten the thread too much, as this will interfere with knitting the loops.

Set of loops with extra thread (open loops)

This elastic edge in appearance resembles a set of loops made on a knitting machine. The bottom of products and sleeves, decorated with this edge, is more durable to wear, stretches well, and is beautiful.

For casting, an additional thread of a contrasting color is used, which will be removed later.
To prevent the edge from being stretched, a set of loops is made with one knitting needle.

The ends of the main and additional threads are folded together and tied with a knot. One knitting needle is inserted into the knot under the main thread.
The threads are placed on the fingers of the left hand so that the main thread is on the index finger, and the additional thread is on the thumb (light thread).

The loops are cast on in the traditional way, with the loops on the knitting needle coming from the main thread, and the bottom chain from the additional thread.

Having collected the required number of loops, the additional thread is cut off.

If open loops are needed along the edge of the part, then from the very first row they begin to knit with the intended pattern, and when the part is ready, an additional thread is woven from the cast-on row.

If after casting on a 1x1 elastic band is knitted, then the first two rows are knitted with a double elastic band:
1st row - one knit stitch, remove the next one unknitted (the thread passes in front of the removed loop), etc.;
2nd row - the loops removed in the previous row are knitted, and the knitted ones are removed (the thread passes in front of the removed loop), etc.; starting from the 3rd row - 1x1 elastic band.

When the elastic is knitted, an additional thread is woven from the cast-on row.

It turned out to be a perfect, round edge, just like on a knitting machine!

"Turkish" set of loops

An edge with open loops is used if it is necessary to continue knitting in the opposite direction. The set is made with two knitting needles of the same thickness, one of which - the bottom - with fishing line.
The thread is placed on the fingers of the left hand in the same way as in method 1. Take one knitting needle (without fishing line) in your right hand and make the first loop. Next, take two knitting needles in your right hand: one with a loop and one, the bottom one, with a fishing line.

The thread from the index finger is passed between the knitting needles towards you, and then placed on the lower knitting needle.

The thread from the thumb is passed between the knitting needles towards you and placed on the top knitting needle.

So they alternate. When casting correctly, one knitted row should form on the knitting needles.

When all the loops have been cast on, the lower knitting needle is pulled out, while the lower loops remain on the fishing line. The upper loops are knitted with the selected pattern.

For training, you can take threads of two colors; When cast correctly, loops of different colors are obtained on the lower and upper knitting needles.

There is an easier version of the same set :

To work, we need two circular knitting needles on fishing line of the same number.
Tie a loop on the bottom knitting needle. We will need it so that in the future the thread will stay on the knitting needles.

We put both knitting needles together and begin to make turns with the thread around them.

How many turns we make, there will be so many loops on one knitting needle. Since we will knit in both directions, we will succeed, for example, with 15 turns - 15 loops on the upper knitting needle and 15 loops on the lower knitting needle.

We pull out the lower knitting needle so that the turns still remain on the fishing line. This is done so that we can knit the turns with facial loops on the top knitting needle.

We knit the turns from the top knitting needle with facial loops.

This made 15 knit stitches.

Now the thread is at the end of the top needle, BUT at the beginning of the bottom one. That is, we turn the knitting over from top to bottom, and begin to knit the turns from the bottom knitting needle with facial loops.

Repeat steps D and E until the desired canvas size is achieved.

As you can see, there is no seam, the fabric is evenly distributed in both directions.

This method is very convenient if you need to make a double edge. To do this, fold the resulting fabric in half, transfer the first loop of the front knitting needle to the back knitting needle and knit 2 loops together.
This set can also be used when knitting socks from socks or mittens from fingers. Or with double-sided knitting!

Openwork set of loops

This set of loops is used to decorate children's and women's products.
For this set, a thin knitting needle and a crochet hook of uniform thickness are used. The thinner the knitting needle and hook, the smaller the scallops will be.
After casting on the stitches from the first row, they begin to knit the fabric with the selected pattern.

The knitting needle and crochet hook are taken in the right hand so that the hook is head up and slightly further than the knitting needle. Cast on 8 chain stitches using the loop on the left thumb.

The 9th loop is only placed on the hook.

Then, holding the loops on the knitting needle with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand, pull the hook and loop through them, thus knitting all eight loops.

The knitting needle is carefully removed and threaded through the first and last loops of the scallop.

Before each new scallop, the knitting needle and hook are put together again.

Next, when knitting the 1st row with the selected pattern, add one or two loops (yo) in the middle of each scallop.
In the middle of very small scallops, loops may not be added.

Set of loops from the center

There are two ways to cast on loops:
You can do this using two needles, then distributing the cast-on stitches across 4 needles, because. This set is usually used for knitting napkins on knitting needles, and for this you will need a set of double-sided knitting needles (5 double-sided knitting needles).

But such a set looks better and neater if it is made in the following way:

To work, we need a hook and a set of double needles of the same size.
Form a ring, as for knitting chain stitches, then pull the thread through it and knit a single crochet.

As many single crochets are knitted into a ring as indicated in the product description (let’s say 12 stitches).

At the same time, together with the loops, knit the remaining end of the thread, so the ring will be tighter, and the “tail” of the thread will already be knitted into the product; use the end of the thread to tighten the ring so that the hole in the middle disappears.

Close the ring with a connecting post.

Pull one loop at a time through the front thread of the single crochet stitch and transfer them to the knitting needle.

First distribute the cast-on number of stitches onto three knitting needles. The number of loops on each knitting needle may not be the same.

First, knit one row with knit crossed (grandmother's) loops, which turn out to be quite dense. When the stitches are distributed over 4 knitting needles, the knitting does not stretch.

For example, a blouse that is knitted from two napkin parts, which, in turn, are knitted from the center. Or a hat knitted at the top.

We will not dwell on the introductory and introductory information with which any training should always begin. Like, for example, a review of tools, yarn, as well as a demonstration of possibilities on already knitted things. Perhaps, starting knitting lessons is always more interesting with practice. And the first such lesson will be: how to cast on loops on knitting needles. Your choice of stitch set will depend on what technique you choose, what you are going to knit, what pattern you like for your design. After all, there are many described options, and it is very important to get acquainted with them in the future. Because the first row of knitting is the edge of your product, which will always be clearly visible. Therefore, it is important to pay special attention to the question of how to cast on loops on knitting needles. But for now, I suggest you learn the basics of knitting.

You can cast on loops with one or two threads, and the edge of the product will depend on the chosen method - thin, elastic, thickened or with fringe, etc. But for beginners

I suggest trying one very simple one, and the other one being the most common option. That’s how I started and I advise you.

First I propose a simple set of the first row of knitting for one thread from the so-called “air loops”. Initially, we take one knitting needle and the end of the thread in our right hand, and with our left hand we hold its continuation with the little finger and ring fingers, leaving a free

the end on the index. Next, with the tip of the knitting needle in your right hand, you need to bring it in the direction from the wrist to the fingertips under the thread on the index finger and throw off the resulting loop from your left hand. The loop is tightened on the knitting needle, as shown in Figure 1. By repeating this procedure the required number of times, you gain the required length of your product, for which a very thin tightening edge is best suited. It looks something like this (Fig. 2).

The most common, perhaps, will be the second method of how to cast on loops on knitting needles for the first row. First, you need to step back from the end of the thread as much as the width of the intended product, multiplied by two. Next, you should put the thread on your thumb and index finger in your left hand and hold both ends of the thread in your palm, as shown in Figure 3. Now in your right hand we take two knitting needles together and bring them under the thread on the thumb towards the wrist.

Turning the knitting needles clockwise, you should pull the thread from your index finger through the loop on your thumb, as shown in Figure 4. Having now dropped the loop, do not let go of the threads held in your left hand, but bring your thumb and index fingers between them. By moving them apart and pulling the thread, you thereby tighten the loop on the knitting needles. This was only the position for the first loop.

All subsequent ones are typed on without loosening the thread. By lowering the knitting needles in your right hand closer to your wrist, you will see that a loop is formed on your finger, as can be seen in Fig. 5. Bring the knitting needles from the bottom up from the side of the palm into the resulting loop, and then pull the thread from the index finger. Now you can remove the threads from your fingers and perform the tightening procedure, as described earlier for the first loop.

In the same sequence, without releasing the threads from your hand, you cast on as many loops as required for the width of your product. To ensure that those already cast on during the casting process do not twist around the knitting needles, and your first row remains even, as in Figure 6, hold each new loop on the knitting needle with your fingers. With just a few short sessions of practice, you will never have difficulty casting on the first row, or any of the subsequent knitting lessons.

And now, having pulled out one knitting needle from the first row, we transfer the other knitting needle with the cast-on loops to the left hand and get to work. So, a simple first row provides the basis for knitting any pattern you like.

There are many more ways and schemes for casting on stitches on knitting needles. But they are all more complex and require more skill and skill. But don't worry, after a series of training and exercises, you can return to the topic of the first row and master a separate knitting lesson with more complex cast-on patterns. In the meantime, you need more practice and an insatiable desire to knit. Good luck!

Casting on stitches on knitting needles is the very first obstacle that a beginning craftswoman faces. Of course, mothers and grandmothers will always tell us about the traditional option, but besides it there are many others that are suitable for different occasions and will ideally frame your work, as well as give its edge the advantages necessary in each specific case. This master class with detailed descriptions, photos and videos will help you make your choice and teach you many variations of buttonhole casting..

Traditional knitting set

Absolutely all knitters are familiar with this option, because it is the simplest, most universal and, accordingly, very widespread. Knitting with this emb. allows you to make a pattern starting from the first row and is perfect for the neckline and sleeves. Suitable for both regular and circular sp.

To begin with, we should take n. in the left hand, leaving n. in reserve, which should be two or two and a half times (depending on the knitting density) longer than the width of the finished fabric. Next, we circle it around the thumb clockwise and place it on the index finger, holding both ends in the palm. We insert two knitting needles folded together into the point on the thumb, grab the n. from the index finger and pull it into the loop on the big stitch, then drop it, while helping yourself to tighten the loop with your thumb and index finger. After, holding p. uk. p. We lower the knitting needles towards ourselves and repeat the knitting as described earlier, in the end we will get two loops. To prevent the chain of sts from twisting, you should constantly hold the sts. uk. P..

Video lesson

Cord-like set of loops

Such an embankment loops create the effect of a decorative edge and are ideal for reinforcing the bottom of the fabric when making mohair products. As in the previous case, here we can also start knitting the main pattern immediately after the first row; The loops of the initial row are formed from the main thread, and the bottom chain is formed from a thick thread folded in three, which makes the neck of the product quite strong. Suitable for any joint, including circular ones.

Fold n. three times, place it on the left palm so that the main n. was on uk. p., triple on the big one, the formed loop is located between us. p. and b. p.. Next, everything is very similar to the traditional embroidery: we insert two knitting needles into the loop under the main. n. and, holding it, we continue to work as in the first option.

Video lesson

Set of hinges with thick edge

It is most often used as a finishing, because it perfectly retains the shape of the neck of the product and serves as a decoration for subsequent elastic or garter stitch. Also such an embankment. a loop with a thickened edge is called “double”; the compacted end is formed by embankment. p. and 1 r., and then, for example, 1x1 elastic bands.

After placing the double thread on your fingers in a figure eight pattern, make the first loop and tighten it. Next we will knit in the same way as with a regular embankment. pet., but with only one difference - on the thumb we remain with a double n., on the index finger - with one (we hold the second one together with the knitting needles). Thus, a dense “pigtail” is formed, which will reliably protect our work from deformation.

A set of hinges with a thickened edge: video master class

Tubular hinge set

This option is ideal in cases where we need an elastic and elastic end. Knitted after 1x1 elastic, it will perfectly retain the shape of the product, protecting the edge. from stretching. In addition, the tubular embankment. loops are also perfect for faces. satin stitch, to decorate the sleeve or neck of a sweater.
For work we will need yarn of two different colors, but of the same thickness. Additional n. we will link the auxiliary r. and then we will delete it. The number of stitches should be half the amount we need + 1 stitch (for example, if we need a fabric 60 stitches wide, we make 30 + 1 stitch).

Loose ponytail n. and sp. put it in your right hand, and n. from the skein - to the left, holding it, we draw it around the thumb and index point.. Sp. enter from bottom to top under n. large p., grab n. from uk. p. and pull out the loop, resulting in a crossed p.. We continue knitting the st. n., without pulling n. too much, until we get it on the sp. 31 p., then we turn the work over and work on the basics. n.: we knit the row completely l. p. behind the back wall, next p. - And. p., and the third p. already l. etc., but in the classical way - behind the front wall; thus, on our sp. along the bottom edge there are alternate stitches. and auxiliary colors.

Next, we make the first st., then we pick up the bow of the st. color, we transfer it to the left sp. and knit l. p.. Then – and. p., pick it up and do everything the same as with the previous p., continue this until the end of the p.

It is important to remember that the stitches on top should always be purl, and the stitches below (those by which we grab the sp.) should always be knit!

We remove the auxiliary thread and begin our pattern. As mentioned earlier, the most suitable options for such a set are 1x1 or 2x2 elastic bands. In the case of 1x1, we simply continue the elm. n. how they lie on the back: i. p. - purl., l. p. - persons..

Tubular set of hinges: video master class

Tubular set of loops

This option will give us a rounded edge, which is ideal for 1x1 or 2x2 elastic for the neck of the product. Suitable for both regular and circular sp.
First, we need, as in the previous case, to dial aux. contrasting n. the number of p., half as much as necessary, and make a few p..

Basic n. – 1 purl. R., then - 3 R. persons Ch. (1 r. - l.p., 2 r. - i.p., 3 r. - l.p.), turn it inside out and then make the first st. purl, insert the tip of the right sp. for the first stroke, put a st on the left sp. and make her faces. behind the back wall. We continue knitting in the same way until we reach the last stitch that we knitted. from the wrong side, we raise the stroke under the edge. p. and knit it, and then make it with the intended pattern, you just have to remove the auxiliary. n., cutting a few sts.

Video lesson

Invisible loop set

This option helps if we start working from the top (for example, from the neck of a sweater) and helps to avoid unnecessary seams. Knitters know various methods, but we will advise you only one invisible one - the simplest, most inconspicuous and universal.

We unwind the resp. n. such a length that it contains all the points that we want to type on. Working stitch, having released the small tail, pick up 1 stitch with a slip knot and place it on the tip of the sp. Clamp the tail of the sp. n., holding it under the sp., so that the sp. n. was in front of the worker.

Then we need to take the slave. and aux. n. in your left hand and keep them together all the time; more n. lion We insert our hands between the slaves. and aux. n. and pull the finger towards ourselves, while crossing the slave knitting needles. and aux. n..
Left direction p., insert between slave. and aux. n. and pull it away from us, holding it on it. n., we get something like a rhombus with a slave. n. on big p.. Then lower the tip of the sp. inside the diamond and grab the slave. n. towards you and up, we get the second st..

Later, we turn the brush towards ourselves and change the position of the p. n. and c. n. Because of this, working n. will pass under the auxiliary sp. below. We lower the sp. slave behind n. from under the far side of the diamond inward, capturing the worker. n. towards you and up, we get the third stitch. We continue knitting until the required width is reached.

Video lesson

Turkish

The edge with open loops, which is obtained with this embossing, is used if in the future it is necessary to continue knitting in opposite directions. The loops are cast on in the traditional way on each knitting needle (you can also use circular ones).

For two bedrooms of the same thickness we cast on one stitch, and the next one on the second sp. and so we alternate sp. until we reach the required length. If we make the Turkish embankment. correctly, then we will end up with one knitted r..

Video lesson

Temporary

The temporary set is also universal, suitable in cases where you need to make a cr. as invisible as possible against the background of the pattern - when knitting the neck of a product or the edge of a jacket, for example. Perfect for rubber bands.

We make p. from basic. threads for 1 sp., add aux. n., we go under it and grab the base. n., get out from under the auxiliary, throw on the main. n. on the sp. We continue knitting until the required number of stitches is reached, then we turn the work and remove 1 stitch with knitting needles as an edge stitch, the next purl stitch. remove, then - l. p. and so on until the end of the r., we repeat one more r., and then we can easily pull out the auxiliary. n..

Video lesson

Bulgarian

The Bulgarian knitting set, also called cross-shaped or “Bulgarian beginning”, is widespread due to its ease of execution and the resulting voluminous, dense edge, which has not only practical, but also decorative significance. This knitting is suitable both for the neck of the product and for decorating the edge.

We need to cast on stitches in the usual way, leaving a tail behind (number of stitches * 4 cm long) and then work knit. crossed stitches, knitting each pair of stitches on the left sp. as one. Our working thread is yarn in the form of a double thread, which consists of n. from the skein and the remaining tail. The first two stitches have already been knitted by one lyceum. Crossed, but not yet removed from the left back. Next r. – lyceums. n. only with yarn from a ball. Last row: above the item of the previous row. we knit the purl ones, from the broaches between them - the front ones.

The scheme of work is clearly shown in this video tutorial:

Decorative set with crossed loops

Perfect for knitting the neck of a blouse or its sleeves.

We use double yarn on the sp. an even number of stitches in the same way as in the “Bulgarian beginning” (see above), purl the row. pet. we don’t knit.

In the next r. remove the chrome. p., 1 i. p., 1 l. p. behind the back wall, alternate until the end of the p., i.e., purl. we do it over the purl, yarn overs - with the front ones, they will give us crossed loops in the end. 2nd row - remove the edge, 1 purl, 1 knit behind the back wall. Alternate until the end of the row, i.e. Knit the purls over the purls, and knit the yarn overs with the knit stitches - these are the ones that make the crossed loops. From the next day You can proceed to the main drawing.

Decorative openwork knitting set

This option is also suitable as a decoration for the edge of the product and its neck. It is quite elastic and soft, looks like knitted lace.

We need to dial in two sp. p., as in the previous case - an even number, do not forget to also leave a long tail.

1st r. – connect the main n. with a spare end and knit 2 loops together behind the back walls.
2nd r. (knit stitch of fabric, knit only the main st, break off the remaining tail) - without separating the double sts, knit them knit stitches. behind the front walls.
3rd r. – elastic bands 1×1: purl. p. above the wrong side, lyceums. we make from broaches between purl. p. and before the last edge.
After all this, you can safely proceed to the pattern according to your scheme.

Set of loops with fringe

In this case, we will talk about a purely decorative set. Of course, it is not suitable for every item, but this set of loops looks original and can easily decorate, for example, a blanket or rug, a scarf or mittens, and will also serve as a decoration for children's and women's products.

We hang it on the sign. p. yarn from the ball, and wrap the free tail around the thumb; after that we introduce 2 sp folded together. in a loop on a large one. p. and grab both n. that come from the pointer. p., and output to p. on the big one. Drop the yarn from the large stitch and tighten the stitch. on a knitting needle.

As a result of these actions we will get the first fringe loop. We can adjust its length using the tension force of the tip, but if it is difficult for you to do this evenly, you can use a cardboard template.

Then we go back to sleep. under item on b. finger and grab both threads coming from the index finger, bring them into a stitch on the thumb, continue knitting until the end of the row, having received a set of double stitches, after which you can start working on the planned pattern.

Video lesson

We hope that our job descriptions, photos and video tutorials will help you master these techniques for casting on loops in the shortest possible time. Thanks to them, you can make a beautiful sweater, blanket or scarf by carefully and correctly framing it, which will make the item knitted by your hands strong, warm and durable.