Round yoke leaves knitting pattern and description. Entries tagged round yoke with knitting needles. Coquette with leaves: video master class
First I collected models of a coquette with petals, connected above from the neck (photos enlarge)
First, cast on the required number of loops and knit with facial loops in the face and inside out 2 cm, then knit two faces together, yarn over, and another row (on the wrong side) of the faces along all the loops. loops. Now we begin to knit a coquette.
For testing, I took on thick threads, there were no others (260m in 100 g) and I got 10 leaves, ideally 12. Even rows are knitted out.
1 row - 1 edge, 2 persons., nakid, 1 persons., nakid, 2 persons., 1 out ..... at the end of the row 2 persons. (out., the final rapport is not knitted), 1 edge.
3 row - 1 edge, 3 persons., nakid, 1 persons., nakid, 3 persons., 1 out ..... at the end of the row 3 persons., 1 edge.
5 row - 1 edge, 4 persons., nakid, 1 persons., nakid, 4 persons., 1 out ..... at the end of the row 4 persons., 1 edge.
7 row - 1 edge, 5 persons., nakid, 1 persons., nakid, 5 persons., 1 out ..... at the end of the row 5 persons., 1 edge.
9 row - 1 hem, yarn over, 2 knit together, knit 9, knit 2 together, yarn over, purl 1 ..... at the end of the row yarn over, 1 hem.
10 row and all subsequent rows - out. we knit loops and yarns from the 9th row., all the rest are out. loops
11th row - 1 chrome, nakid, 2 persons together, 7 persons, 2 persons together, nakid, 3 out ..... at the end of the row nakid, 1 chrome.
13th row - 1 chrome, nakid, 2 persons together, 5 persons, 2 persons together, nakid, 5 out ..... at the end of the row nakid, 1 chrome.
15th row - 1 chrome, nakid, 2 persons together, 3 persons, 2 persons together, nakid, 7 out of ..... at the end of the row of nakid, 1 chrome.
17th row - 1 crochet, nakid, 3 faces together, nakid, 9 out ..... at the end of the row yarn, 1 chrome.
Then we knit faces. loops of rows 6-8.
Now we distribute the loops, there are two loops on the raglan line, in total we have 4 raglan lines, which means 2x4 = 8 loops. From the total number of loops we subtract 2 edge and 8 raglan loops, divide the remaining loops by 3 (front, two sleeves, back) Let's say we have 142 loops.
142-2-8=132
132/ 3 = 44
So on the shelves there will be 22 loops (44/2) + edge
There are also 22 loops on the sleeves (44/2)
Back 44 loops
It will turn out like this: 1 edge, 22 loops of the right shelf, 2 loops of the raglan line, 22 loops of the right sleeve, 2 loops of the raglan line, 44 loops of the back, 2 loops of the raglan line, 22 loops of the left sleeve, 2 loops of the raglan line, 22 loops of the left shelf, 1 edging - 142 in total and knit adding in each person. a row of one crochet on each side of the raglan line. That's all.
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Girls, I will write how I knit raglan from above myself. It is very easy. After the coquette, we count the resulting loops. I got 158 loops.
On 4 raglan lines, I took 2 loops. 158-8 I have 150 left.
These 150 divided into 3 equal parts. 50 loops on the chest, sleeves and back. Since the breast is not solid knitted, I divided 50 loops in half - 25 loops on the left half of the breast and 25 on the right.
For sleeves, we also divide 50 loops in half, 25 loops for each sleeve.
As a result, it turns out like this:
25 p. left half of the breast - 2p. raglan line - 25p. left sleeve - 2 p. raglan line - 50 p. back - 2 p. raglan line - 25 p. right sleeve - 2 p. raglan line - 25 p, right half of the breast. (25-2-25-2-50-2-25-2-25).
If after the section into three parts there are loops, then I usually add them to the back. And after the calculations, we simply knit to the desired width of the back, adding 1 loop BEFORE and AFTER each raglan line in each front row. Purl knit according to the pattern. In order not to get confused, for the first time, you can put markers on each part or simply knit ragged lines with purl lines. In the process of knitting, you can constantly apply to the baby.
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"Rostok" in raglan
Divide the sleeve loops into 4 parts and mark 4 points with pins. These will be the turning points (it will turn out in the future 4 extra rows on the back). When you knit to the extreme fourth point, turn the knitting. Then do the same on the other side, turn. Then to the third point, turn. And so on until the last first point, there will be 4 turning points in each sleeve, and the back will be higher by 4 front rows (or 8 regular rows). And then knit everything evenly. For example, from the middle of the front to the opposite sleeve (clockwise), then to the other sleeve, and at the same time, until the end of the growth of the “sprout”, the front will no longer be knitted. The last turning point will be the 4th point on the sleeve, then everything is knitted with a full row. Knit a small section, increasing (adding) loops on the sides.
I knit the loops of the back, gradually introducing the loops of the sleeves, in 3-5 steps, depending on the thickness of the thread. Yes, but in children's products they do not always make a sprout, in this model you can knit without it.
Knitting coquette from below
Round yoke - an element of clothing, knitted in several ways: from top to bottom, from bottom to top, in the transverse direction. In this article we will consider one of them - knitting a yoke from top to bottom, i.e. from the neck to the armpits. When knitting, the fabric expands by adding loops. A round yoke with knitting needles from top to bottom is often knitted with openwork patterns or their combination with the front surface.
There are many methods of knitting a product from the neck down in a circle with a solid fabric. The main difficulty with this knitting is the calculation of the number of loops from row to row to expand the fabric from the neck to the edge of the round yoke.
An example of a loop calculation scheme
For the calculation, we need to take such basic measurements - see photo.
- Neckline length.
If the coquette starts high, along the girth of the neck, then it is imperative to provide a clasp, otherwise the head will not “crawl through”. The same is taken into account when knitting a coquette collar.
If the head circumference and the elasticity of the fabric are taken into account in the initial row of the coquette, then such an initial measurement for adults will be 50-58 cm and will pass slightly below the base of the neck. (see line 1 in Fig. 1).
- The second measure we need is measurement shoulder circumference. It is measured after 11-13 cm from the first measurement described above. For medium fullness, this measurement will be 105 - 115cm. (see line 2 in Fig. 1 - free measurement in a circle from shoulder to shoulder).
- The maximum girth of the body over not pressed hands at the height of the armhole. It is measured after 12-14 cm from the second measurement - measurements of the shoulder girdle. For medium fullness, this measure will be 140-150cm.
The length of the coquette from the first measurement to the third will be the length equal to your raglan line, i.e. from 23 to 27 cm.
After taking average measurements, we will see that from the initial measurement of the neckline in a circle to the second measurement - the shoulder girdle in a circle, the measurements almost doubled (50-58cm and 105-108cm), and the third measurement gives an increase of another 1.3 times . These data allow us to calculate the increase in the number of loops in the yoke from the initial measurement to the bottom of the yoke.
For example, by tying the sample and taking the first measurement, we calculated that the initial row of the coquette corresponds to 90 loops. This means that after 11-13 cm, by the beginning of the second measurement, this number will have to increase by 2 times - 90x2 = 180 loops. We measure according to the sample how many rows of the pattern correspond to these 11-13cm lengths from the first to the second measurement (let's say it's 10 rows). Dividing 90 sts into 10 rows, we get the answer that in each circular row from the beginning of the yoke to the beginning of the shoulder girdle, we need to add 9 loops in each of the 10 rows.
From this place to the line of the third measurement, the number of loops should increase by another 1.3 times. That is, 180x1.3 = 234 loops. So, now you need to calculate how many rows of how many loops you need to add in order to reach the calculated figure of 234 loops and reach the armhole line.
In total, the number of loops from the neckline to the armhole level should increase by 2.6 times. This calculation is for a fitted silhouette. If you like loose silhouettes, the number of loops needs to be increased.
Sprout decoration
Those knitters who are familiar with knitting raglan from the neck know that the raglan line of the back is 2 cm longer than the raglan line of the front. This amendment, called the sprout, is needed so that the front of the product does not “run over” up. The back is made longer than the front by these 2 cm by partial knitting, placing these added rows in the pattern imperceptibly.
Moreover, in some publications it is recommended to carry out these increases to lengthen the yoke from the back side by 2-3 cm immediately, when typing the initial row of the neck, knitting in rotary rows until all the calculated loops of the initial row of the yoke are dialed, then close the circle and knit in a circle the entire length coquettes.
There is another variant of the scheme for lengthening the back to obtain a sprout through the use of different knitting needles. For example, the front and sleeves are knitted on knitting needles No3, and the back is knitted on knitting needles No3.5. But here we must take into account that we will get not only an increased length, but also a width.
Some also recommend lengthening the back after the circular fabric of the yoke, knitted to the armhole level, is divided into sleeves, back and front. To do this, all the number of loops is divided into 6 parts, focusing on the features of the pattern, and distributed: for each sleeve - one sixth, for the back and front - two sixths of the total number of loops. A few loops are added to the number of front loops at the expense of the back, and 2-3 cm are still knitted on the loops of the back itself.
Now take a closer look at Figure 2.
In the standard pattern - the base, it is clearly visible that below the level of the armhole, i.e. below the level of the 3rd measuring line known to us, to which we knitted our round yoke (see Fig. 2, circled in red oval) and the width of the back, and the width of the front, and the width of the sleeves should be increased by this same armhole width (by the distance marked with blue arrows) to match your size. At the same time, each part expands in its own direction, knitting separately. When the details reach the desired expansion, they can continue to be knitted in a circle. To do this, the loops of the back and front are knitted together in a circle. Having knitted down after the armhole line 3-4 cm, you can, if necessary, perform partial knitting along the details of the front of the tuck.
On fig. 3 at point "a" we see that along the back line the yoke should be 2-3 cm longer than along the front, otherwise the yoke will "fit" up the front.
On the same fig. 3 we see that below the armhole line by 3-4 cm, you can draw (if necessary) darts.
Knitting darts with knitting needles in short rows
Without knitting the required number of loops to the end of the river, we make a crochet and knit with knitting needles in the opposite direction and repeat the process on the other side. Following. R. do not knit another 2p. until the last yarn over. And so on, until the desired tuck length is reached. Then we knit all the stitches together with the crochets, that is, we return to the original number of stitches.
Round yoke for a blouse: MK video for beginners
Round yoke with a loose fit
Pay attention to fig. 4.
In this version, the yoke is knitted in the round with knitting needles with a large increase in loops and a loose fit. In this case, both the sleeves and the front-back panel will be wide and free. When knitting a round yoke from above, you need to take into account the properties of the pattern itself:
- not all patterns with knitting needles can be knitted in a circle;
- not all patterns look beautiful when they are located from top to bottom;
- expanding the pattern from top to bottom can be done between its rapports by adding crochets from broaches, knitting two loops from one, etc.
Coquette patterns should compare favorably with the rest of the pattern. It is obvious that when knitting with knitting needles stripes of openwork or stripes from dialed motifs along the measurement line 2 in fig. 1 (shoulder girth line), such a band will require a fit along the top line so as not to slip off the shoulders (reducing the fit from the side of the neck) along the additional measuring line.
Sleeves can be knitted in the round if the pattern allows. According to the marked lines of the side, it is possible to fit the product. To do this, decreases are made around the loop selected for the side line - they knit the loops together, having previously calculated their number.
There are different patterns and patterns for beautiful knitting of a round yoke with knitting needles. We offer you one of them.
Round openwork yoke knitted on top for a women's sweater, description and diagrams
The calculations of this scheme are made for size 46/48.
The initial number of loops on the neck is 74p.
Row 1, Row 3, Row 5, Row 7: 1p. remove (thread in front of sp.), * 2i., 1n., 2i., 2p. remove (thread in front) * - from * to * repeat, 2i., 1n., 2i., 1p. remove (thread before sp.);
2p., 4p., 6p.: 2p. in 1l. for the lower lobules, 1l., from 1n. - 2p. (1l., 1i.), 1l., 2p. in 1l. for the upper lobules;
8r .: faces., from yarn - 2p. (1l., 1i.);
9 rubles, 11 rubles, 13 rubles, 15 rubles: 1p. remove (thread in front), * 3i., 1n., 3i., 2p. remove (thread in front) * - from * to * repeat, 1p. remove (thread in front);
10 rubles, 12 rubles, 14 rubles: 2p. in 1l. for the lower slices, 2l., from yarn -2p. (1l., 1i.), 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the upper lobules;
16r .: as 8r .;
17th, 19th: 1p. remove (thread in front), * 4i., 1n., 4i., 2p. remove (thread in front) * - from * to * repeat, 1p. remove (thread in front);
18r., 20r.: * 2p. in 1l. for the lower slices, 3l., from yarn -2p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the upper slices * from * to * repeat, 2p. in 1l. for the upper lobules;
20 rub. knit to the end and connect in a circle, knitting edge stitches in 1p. with neighbors;
21st: 2p. remove (thread for sp.), 4l., 1n., 4l.;
22 rubles: like 18 rubles;
23r.: 1p. remove (thread for sp.), * 1n., 1p. remove (thread for sp.), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread for sp.) * -repeat from * to *;
24r .: from the crochet, knit 1l., 2p. in 1l. for the lower slices, 3l., from yarn -2p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top slices;
25r.: 1n., 1l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread for sp.), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
26r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the lower slices, 3l., from the yarn 2p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. knit in 1l. for the top;
27r.: 1n., 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
28r.: 5l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., from the yarn -2p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
29r.: 1n., 5l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 4l., 1n., 4l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
30r.: 7l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., from the yarn -2p. (1l., 1i.), 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
31r.: 1n., 7l., 1n., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 1n., 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
32r.: 9l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 2l., from the yarn -2p. (1l., 1i.), 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
33r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 1l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
34r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 2l., from the yarn, knit 1l, 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
35r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 5l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
36r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 5l .. 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
37r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 5l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
38r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 7l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 1l., 2p. in 1l. for the top;
39r.: 1n., 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 7l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1n., 3p. in 1l.;
40r.: 3l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 9l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3l., 1l.;
41r.: 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 1n., 9l., 1n., 1p. remove (thread from behind), 3l., 1p. remove (thread from behind);
42r.: 2l., 2p. in 1l. for the top, 11l., 2p. in 1l. for the bottom, 3 l.
Then, until the end of the coquette, we alternate 41r. and 42r.
The distribution of the pattern in detail: for each sleeve - 2 petals, for the back and front - 4 petals. Next, we knit a sweater with any chosen pattern. But do not forget under the armhole to knit along the raglan line of the increase with a crochet through a row along the central loop of the armhole. The height of this line is 8-9cm.
Coquette with leaves: video master class
Selection of schemes
Knitted jacket "with leaves" for a girl up to a year
A cute jacket for a girl with knitting needles with a very original design of the coquette "leaves"
A jacket for a girl is made with beautiful openwork knitting needles at the base, an elastic band on the cuffs of the sleeves and 7 leaves on the yoke around the neck.
Size: 0/3 (6/12) months
Materials: 1 (2) skeins of Bernat SofteeBaby yarn (100% acrylic, 140g/331m), needles 3.5 and 3.75mm, 4 stitch holders, 12 markers, 2 buttons 1cm in diameter, needle, hook 3.75mm.
Knitting density: 24 sts * 32 rows = 10*10 cm on large needles, stockinette stitch.
Openwork pattern:
1st row: 1 person., * 1 out., yarn over, broach, repeat from * to the last. 2 loops, 1 out., 1 persons.
2nd row: 2 persons., * 2 out., 1 persons., repeat from * to the last. loops, 1 person.
3rd row: 1 person., 1 out., * 2 persons together., yarn over, 1 out., repeat from *, 1 person.
4th row: knit as the second row.
Repeat 1-4 rows for the pattern.
2 persons together. (decreases with a tilt to the left): With the right knitting needle, pass the second loop of the left knitting needle, then the left loop, knit the loops together. behind the front walls.
Broach (decrease with an inclination to the right): remove the loop on the right knitting needle, 1 person., throw the removed loop on the knitted one.
Double reduction: remove 2 loops on the right knitting needle (as if they wanted to knit them 2 persons together.), knit 1 person., throw two removed loops on the knitted one (reduced 2 loops).
Knit a loop twice: knit the next loop first with the front one behind the front wall (do not remove the loops from the left knitting needle), then again with the front but already behind the back wall (add 1 loop).
Knitted jacket for a girl, job description:
Yoke: with smaller knitting needles, starting from the neckline, cast on 70 loops.
Knit 5 rows of facial loops (garter stitch), starting from the wrong side.
Next, make additions and a hole for a button:
Row 1 (right side): K5, p1, k3, *inc st, k4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p1, k1, cast off 2 sts ( button hole), 2 persons. = 81 loops.
2nd row: 2 persons., Dial 2 loops, 2 persons., * 9 out., 1 person., Repeat from * to the last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
Next, start executing the leaf pattern according to the scheme:
1st row: 5 persons., * 1 out., 4 persons., yarn over, 1 persons., yarn over, 4 persons., repeat from * to the last. 6 loops, 1 out., 5 persons. = 95 loops.
2nd row: 6 persons., * 11 out., 1 person., repeat from * to the last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
3rd row: 5 persons., * 1 out., 5 persons., yarn over, 1 persons., yarn over, 5 persons., repeat from * to the last. 6 loops, 1 out., 5 persons. = 109 loops.
4th row: 6 persons., * 13 out., 1 persons., repeat from * to the last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
Row 5: K5, *P1, put a marker in this st, K6, YO, K1, YO, K6, repeat from * to last. 6 sts, purl 1, place a marker in this st, k5. = 123 loops.
6th row: 5 persons., 1 persons. (loop with a marker), * knit purl to the next. loops with a marker, 1 persons. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
Only for size 6/12 months:
7th row: 5 persons., * 1 out. (loop with a marker), 7 persons., nakid, 1 persons., nakida, 7 persons., repeat from * to the last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons. = 137 loops.
8th row: 5 persons., 1 persons. (loop with a marker), * knit purl to the next. loops with a marker, 1 person. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
For all sizes: knit according to scheme I (II), repeating a repeat of 16 (18) loops - 6 times in width, where the lower part of the seven leaves is divided by a garter pattern:
1st row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), yarn over, broach, knit to the last two loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), nakid, broach, knit facial to the last. 2 sts before st with marker, k2tog, yarn over, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
2nd row: 6 persons., * 1 person., knit purl to the last loop in front of the loop with a marker, 1 person., 1 person. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
3rd row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), 1 persons. yarn over, broach, knit to the last 3 loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, 1 persons., * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), 1 persons., nakida, broach, knit facial to the last. 3 sts before st with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k1, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
Row 4: K6, *k2, purl to last 2 sts before marker st, k2, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
5th row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), 2 persons. yarn over, broach, knit to the last 4 loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, 2 persons., * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), 2 persons., nakida, broach, knit facial to the last. 4 sts before st with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k2, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
Row 6: K6, *k3, purl to last 3 sts before marker st, k3, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
7th row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), 3 persons. yarn over, broach, knit to the last 5 loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, 3 persons., * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), 3 persons., nakida, broach, knit facial to the last. 5 stitches before stitch with marker, knit 2tog, yarn over, knit 3, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
Row 8: K6, *k4, purl to last 4 sts before marker st, k4, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
9th row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), 4 persons. yarn over, broach, knit to the last 6 loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, 4 persons., * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), 4 persons., nakida, broach, knit facial to the last. 6 stitches before stitch with marker, k2tog, yarn over, k4, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
Row 10: K6, *k5, purl to last 5 sts before marker st, k5, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
11th row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons. yarn over, broach, knit to the last 7 loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, 5 persons., * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), 5 persons., nakida, broach, knit facial to the last. 7 loops in front of a loop with a marker, 2 persons together., yarn over, 5 persons., repeat from * to the last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
Row 10: K6, *k6, purl to last 6 sts before marker st, k6, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
Only for size 6/12 months: 
13th row: 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), 6 persons. yarn over, broach, knit to the last 8 loops before the next. loop with a marker, 2 persons together., nakid, 6 persons., * 1 persons., (loop with a marker), 6 persons., nakida, broach, knit facial to the last. 8 loops in front of a loop with a marker, 2 knit together, yarn over, knit 6, repeat from * to last. 6 loops, 1 out. (loop with a marker), 5 persons.
Row 14: K6, *k7, purl to last 7 sts before marker st, k7, k1. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
For all sizes:
Track. a number of schemes (person. side): 5 persons., 1 out. (loop with a marker), * 6 (7) persons., yarn, double decrease, yarn, 6 (7) persons., 1 persons. (loop with marker), repeat from * to last. 5 loops, 5 persons.
Remove markers.
The last row of the scheme: 13 (14) persons., 1 out., * 15 (17) persons., 1 out., repeat from * to the last. 13 (14) loops, 13 (14) persons.
The scheme is completed.
Track. row: 5 persons., 1 out., Knit facial to the last. 6 loops, 1 out., 5 persons.
Track. row: faces. loops.
Track. row (inc): 5 persons., 1 out., 1 persons., * knit a loop twice, repeat from * to the last. 8 (9) loops, 2 (3) persons., 1 out., 1 person., close 2 loops (button hole), 2 persons. = 231 (258) loops.
track. Row: K2, cast on 2 sts, knit to end of row.
Switch to large needles.
Knit with an openwork pattern - 10 (14) rows, finish the purl row.
Divide sts: First 33 (44) sts for right front, next. 48 (51) loops for the right sleeve, next. 68 (79) loops for the back, next. 48 (51) loops for the left sleeve, the last 33 (44) loops for the left shelf.
Sleeves: slip the loops of the left sleeve onto large knitting needles, connect the thread.
Knit with an openwork pattern - 10 (12.5) cm.
Change to smaller needles, knit:
1st row (person. side): 2 persons together, * 2 together out., 1 persons., repeat from * to the last. 4 stitches, purl 2 together, knit 2 together. = 31 (33) loops.
2nd row: * 1 out., 1 persons., repeat from * to the last. loops, 1 out.
3rd row: * 1 person., 1 out., repeat from * to the last. loops, 1 person.
Repeat the last two rows - 3 times, then repeat the 2nd row one more time.
Close the loops into a pattern.
Repeat knitting for the right sleeve.
Openwork yoke knitted with raglan on top. Review
Based on the materials of the book "Basics of knitting products by hand with knitting needles", edited by K. Tsnyan (China).
An openwork yoke tied with raglan at the top helps emphasize femininity and delicately avoid the problem of fit with sloping and narrow shoulders. Recently, it has been published less and less in fashion knitting magazines, preferring to offer models knitted from below to the attention of needlewomen, although it is still popular and designers appreciate its ability to present a figure in a winning light, so an openwork yoke is not uncommon in collections. Anyone who has ever decided to make such a model has realized how much easier and more pleasant the work is without subsequent stitching of parts, because the openwork does not forgive mistakes and the slightest change in knitting density immediately warps the pattern. When knitting from above, such a problem simply cannot arise, because the openwork yoke is made with a single fabric.
An openwork yoke is knitted exactly like a classic raglan, except that the additions are evenly distributed throughout the yoke, and not grouped along the raglan line. The rhythm of the addition, however, is still the same: 4 loops in a row. Therefore, if ten rows are knitted without additions at all, then in the next row 40 loops must be added immediately at regular intervals; or if 5 rows, then 20 loops. It doesn’t matter how far apart the rows with additions are - the distance between each two may differ within the same coquette - the main thing is that the general rule is fulfilled all the time.
The next additions are placed between the additions of the previous row, so that the yoke expands evenly in all directions. Usually additions are included in the pattern. It will be easier to imagine and solve this on your own if you imagine that the coquette consists of many narrow isosceles triangles, presented close to each other, with their vertices towards the neck. Each triangle contains its own part of the pattern, and the shape of all is the same.
It is not necessary to make a product from plain yarn, it is possible to use it partially dyed or in different colors, even just the remains of yarn of all colors and textures, but the latter must be done thoughtfully and several samples must be knitted in advance in order to choose the most interesting option.
There are two options for knitting yoke triangles: the triangles are located close to each other or there are flat knitting stripes between the triangles, the first looks better on a slender figure, the second on a luxurious one. For beginners, it will be useful to make a couple of models with an openwork yoke knitted on top, using the ready-made patterns that are attached below, before inventing something of your own. Only during knitting can you fully understand all the subtleties. To make the first model with or without sleeves is a matter of taste, their knitting is no different from knitting the sleeves of a classic raglan sweater.