Refurbish an old sewing machine. Sewing machine repair zinger antiques. Old sewing machines

This is a lockstitch machine with a shuttle that swings in a horizontal plane. Execution option - with the manual drive. It occurs quite often and even in good condition, despite the fact that the machine has served a person for more than fifty years.

There is also a domestic similar machine "Gosshveymashina", which was produced by PMZ in the past. It is also found in the general population. In general, there are many types of machines of this type. Consider the most typical malfunctions for one brand and, using its example, a method for eliminating them.

Rice. 120. Upper thread tension regulator (Singer machine):

a) let's say that the regulator washers are either rusty, or homemade, or they don't exist at all. It is necessary to grind the working convex surface of the washers 4 where the thread passes and is clamped. Grind with sandpaper, first medium, then fine grit. If homemade washers are supplied, replace them with modern washers from the Chaika or Podolsk machine. There should be no gap between serviceable washers, folded together with convex sides. Warped washers cannot be placed;

b) it is possible that the compensation spring is broken or not at all. Here, first of all, you need to disassemble the regulator by turning the axis 3 . If part of the spring 2 stored inside the regulator, discard it. The metal has become brittle and when trying to make a thread hook, it breaks. spring 2 put a new one, you can take it from those machines from which the washers are. Remove the support ring from the regulator. 8 attached at the bottom with one screw, and void. Now, to support the compensation spring, adapt the lower ledge in the tidal half ring 10 machine body. File the ledge on top with a trihedral file so that the end of the spring lies in the channel and cannot freely jump off the support ( ).

compensation spring 2 can be made working on the unclamp. It is placed on the left side of the regulator and works from the bottom up. The tension should be weak. The last coil of the spring 2 make it in the form of a small ring so that the narrow part of the threaded regulator axis enters it. The spring is fixed with this annular coil. Some machines have a push washer 5 , the squeeze pusher inside the axis of the regulator, and inside the frontal cavity - the squeeze lever acting from the foot lifting mechanism. In case of poor operation of the release lever, moisten it with a mixture of I8A oil and solvent No. 647 (1: 1 ratio).

After working the release lever manually for 5 minutes, it will work well. The same can be done with the presser foot bar. It often hangs in the bushings due to the small stroke during operation, the accumulation of dirt and dried oil on it, especially under the coil spring. On some machines, the described spinning of the washers is not provided for by the design. The extraction is carried out by the release lever 11 specially installed on the regulator, which is actuated by the finger of the hand. The lever is placed in front of the conical spring;

V) a particular difficulty is the absence of a pressure nut on the regulator. Unscrew the regulator axis and turn the nut along the thread on the axis (makes a turner). Cutting the thread on M6 is dangerous, you can break the horn;

G) if the thread on the regulator axis is broken, take the regulator axis from the Chaika-3 class, Chaika-2, 2M class. and cut an M5 thread on the bearing end. In the hole of the machine, cut the thread with an M5 tap and install a new axle;

e) if the horn of the regulator axis is broken off, it can be welded. It is necessary to put a calibrated plate with a thickness of 2.1 mm into the slot and screw on the nut. It is better, of course, to put a new axle.

Rice. 121.

On top of the shuttle, a leaf spring of two branches is screwed with an adjusting screw. Often a thin branch is broken off, and the shuttle works with one wide main branch. The task of the leaf spring is to press the lower shuttle thread. Its tension is adjusted by a screw. At the place where the second branch was broken, dull the sharp edge with a diamond flat file, otherwise the upper thread may break.

Shuttle repair:

A) manually grind the leaf spring 3 from a steel and at the same time well-machinable plate with a thickness of 0.4-0.3 mm.

The time for turning the plate is about two hours. Outline the contours of the leaf spring with the old one, first anneal it on low heat and straighten it, making it flat; drill a hole with a diameter of 2 mm on the workpiece for the adjusting screw. Align the holes with the old spring, block them with a screw and nut, then copy the contour with a sharp needle. This work is painstaking, responsible, and one should not rush in its implementation;

b) from many years of work on the shuttle 2 where the thread comes out, a groove is formed. Abrasive microparticles are introduced into the threads from the air with dust. When the thread passes under the pressed plate, abrasive dust does its destructive work. The same groove (groove) is formed on the plate. For this reason, the plate pressed to the limit cannot slow down the thread. As a result, the line turns out to be of poor quality - the lower thread goes up to the top of the fabric and winds. To eliminate the groove on the shuttle with a diamond file, cut down a flat area until the groove disappears completely, and make a slight bulge inward on the plate. Do this work like this. leaf spring 3 put on the edge of the wooden stand with the groove down. From above, across the plate, put the non-sharp end of the screwdriver and lightly hit it with a hammer. The plate will bend a little and will press the thread well;

V) it happens that from many years of work at the shuttle, the tip of the spout has not only become dull, but has worked so well that it has acquired the shape of a bulge. As a result, the thread lingers on the convex section of the hook and breaks. You can remove the bulge on the shuttle to a straight line on a mechanical emery stone as shown in Figure 122.

Rice. 122.

The complexity of sawing lies in the taper of the surface to be ground 0 1 -0 2 . Along the length, the surface to be treated should have the shape of a truncated cone. After grinding, remove the rough strips with a diamond file. Treat the surface with fine-grain sandpaper, then on a mechanical felt grinding wheel soaked in GOI paste (grind the surface to a mirror finish). The time spent on work will be approximately 30 minutes;

G) from many years of work, a gap may appear in the end part of the shuttle, for which the thread clings when it exits the shuttle and is cut off. Grind it off smoothly upwards. If the hook is rusty, sand it down on a felt wheel. The main task of the shuttle is to skip without delay through the loop-overlap of the upper thread. And this is only possible with a perfectly polished surface. Dirt, thread and fabric linters accumulate in the hook, as a result of which the bobbin does not rotate well and the lower thread may break. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically clean the shuttle inside.

The part in which the shuttle lies is called the carriage. The base of the carriage is inserted into the groove and screwed with one screw. The type of attachment, frankly, is not entirely durable and reliable. For this reason, you can not set a high speed flywheel. But machines of the Singer type also work on a foot drive, where the danger of increasing the speed of the flywheel increases.

For malfunctions, the carriage is in the first place:

A) part of the back plate that lines the bottom bracket is broken off. Start the repair with the workpiece of the broken part. To do this, knock out the rivet located on the back of the carriage, place a part of the prepared plate of the appropriate configuration on the carriage and fasten it with a nail with a diameter of 1.5 mm with a round head (bit off the excess part of the nail with wire cutters and make it in the form of a rivet). Back of the carriage ( ) tilt back by 100 °, and from above it is imperative to make a slope in the direction of the thread running (this operation applies to all carriages of machines of this type).

If the above slopes are absent, there will be a break in the upper thread;

b) if there is no lining plate in the carriage, it can be made from steel foil, the thickness of which is 0.2-0.25 mm ( );

V) if the thread in the carriage is broken, cut a new enlarged thread, make a screw with a wide head and a short threaded part equal to 4 mm under it. Screw thread from M4 to M5 (decide locally);

G) if the side limiter 6 of the shuttle is broken off in the structurally lightweight carriage 3, it can be soldered with a wire in the form of a loop, the length of which is 7 mm and the thickness is 0.5 mm. You can use a piece of wire from a compensation spring. This device works great. Solder with tin. In order to tilt back the rear part 4 of the structurally lightweight carriage, it must first be heated to a crimson color. After bending by 100° and sawing the inner side in the direction of the run-off of the thread, it is also necessary to heat the front part of the carriage and bend it towards the back part as much as the back part 4 is bent - this will keep the dimensions of the shuttle carriage.

Rice. 123. The location of the needle in the vertical needle groove of the platform (Singer machine):

Remove the needle plate, remove and disassemble the needle bar. The end of the needle bar, where the needle is attached, anneal on the flame and put the needle bar in place. Insert the needle and fasten it. Raise the needle bar with the handwheel to the highest end position. On the left side, put a triangular file on the needle bar with an edge and lightly hit it 2-3 times with a hammer. The end of the needle bar should bend slightly to the right and bring the needle flush with the inner surface of the arc along which the hook slides during operation. Such a bend in the end of the needle bar is necessary. Without bringing the needle to the shuttle at a distance of 0.2-0.1 mm, skipping stitches in the line is inevitable. Annealing the end of the needle bar for five minutes is necessary. Without it, breakdowns of this very thin part of the rod occur. The hardened steel needle bar cannot withstand bending without annealing.

If now there are skipped stitches in the line, slightly bend the carriage up with a screwdriver. It is possible and necessary to bend the carriage under various circumstances.

Bend the front of the carriage like this:

1 ) when skipping stitches in the line - bend up;

2 ) when hitting the shuttle or carriage on the valve - bend down;

3 ) when touching the lever for lifting the teeth - bend up. Bend the rear end of the carriage like this:

A) when touching the valve - down;

b) when the upper thread breaks - down or up (it is necessary to find the optimal position of this part of the carriage by experience);

V) when the lower thread breaks - down.

If the upper or lower thread breaks, in addition to all the measures listed above, check the entire area of the passage of the shuttle (carriage) for the presence of burrs and sharp protrusions. On the machine body, on the rack (especially on its right side), latches, carriage and shuttle, smooth, blunt and grind all sharp irregularities that the thread can cling to.

The moment of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle with the needle when it moves from the lowest position should occur above the eye of the needle by 3.5-4 mm. If at the same time the shuttle with the carriage knocks on the valve, bend the carriage lower (a FORCED measure!) To eliminate the knock. Unscrew the screw fixing the level of the needle bar, loosen the second screw on the right, and lower the needle bar to such a height that the shuttle meets the needle 3.5-4 mm above its eye. Firmly tighten the second screw on the right on the needle bar attachment part. Now the remaining one screw (as on the “Gosshveymashin”) will ensure the stability of the needle bar level, since we had to remove the left screw, which rigidly blocked the needle bar with the part (it is better to move it lower with an emphasis under the wings) ( ).

Rice. 124.
(Singer machine with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):

If, for example, when sewing leather, the needle bar gets knocked off, loosen its fastening screw on the part and place foil under the rod in one layer with a thickness of 0.2 mm. The width of the foil strip is 5 mm. Tighten the screw firmly with a screwdriver, the length of which is 125 mm. A longer screwdriver may break parts. This measure will ensure the strength of the clamp.

Put the needle plate in place and fasten it with the screw.

It may happen that the needle, when lowered down, touches the right side of the hole in the needle plate. As a result, the gap between the needle and the hook will increase, and skipped stitches may occur in the stitching. In this case, remove the plate and cut off 0.5 mm on the right side of the needle hole where the needle touches its edge. Cut with a round diamond file. The needle must not touch the walls of the hole in the needle plate.

The feed dog teeth are dull from years of use.

Remove the rail and sharpen the teeth with a trihedral diamond file. The teeth are tilted back, so sharpen the front side of the tooth. Time for sharpening - no more than 2 minutes.

Release the presser foot spring. To do this, unscrew the upper pressure threaded sleeve so that the presser foot pressure is very moderate (within 0.5 kg). Pressing the presser foot firmly against the fabric gathers the fabric, causing wear on parts and making the machine sluggish. It is better to disassemble the stem of the foot and clean it from age-old layering with sandpaper. Dirt collects on the rod under the cylindrical spring and layers from many years of lubrication, lint from threads and fabrics accumulate - all this interferes with the free and easy movement of the rod in the spring.

The play in the joints should be minimal. If it is large, bring it back to normal. It is barely perceptible by hand and barely audible.

The shuttle in the carriage must have a play of about 0.5 mm. If it is larger, move the carriage to the left towards the hook. If less (in this case, the thread slips with difficulty at the beginning or end of the shuttle), move the carriage. If it is impossible to move the carriage, a play of 0.5 mm can be achieved by bending (folding) the front or rear of the carriage in a horizontal plane. If you bend it, then the back wall of the carriage is better.

Remove the play in the levers under the platform with clamping screws. Shuttle play on the crankshaft should be eliminated with a screw located on the vertical lever on the rear side of the machine. To see the right screw, you need to open the round hole on the back side on the right (it will be visible in the foreground). Turn the screw 2-3°, as it greatly affects the play of the parts.

Bobbin winding mechanism.

After many years of work, the rubber roller of the winder mechanism does not provide reliable adhesion to the flywheel. It is necessary to do two procedures. Replace rubber roller. In the place of the hinged fastening of the winder mechanism to the eye of the machine, replace the Belleville spring, if it is provided and worn out; if it is not provided for by the design, file the eye by 0.5 mm in the plane of movement of the winder and install a belleville spring. It can be supplied from the stitch length regulator of the Podolsk machine 2M class. or "Seagull" -3 cells.

It happens that drove 2 threads (figure ) is set so that the thread is wound incorrectly. It should be wound with a bias from right to left and run from top to bottom. The bobbin in the hook always faces the sharp end to the left.

Rice. 125 Winding thread on a bobbin (Singer machine):

If the thread is wound incorrectly, fold the top of the carrier 2 in the place of a narrow isthmus. Bend only exceptionally and to a small angle (2°). The fact is that the bobbins are not all the same length - due to wear, non-standard manufacturing, and other reasons, so you should not bend the carrier for each bobbin.

The breakage of the upper thread can occur for the following reasons:

A) thread retention at the tip of the hook. It is necessary to perform all the work with the shuttle listed above. Two factors remain decisive: the angle of the shuttle and the careful polishing of its surface;

b) insufficient tilt in two planes of the carriage (its rear wall), as mentioned above;

V) The sharp protrusion of the bobbin on the back of the carriage may cause the upper thread to break. You can make a bobbin yourself. It must have the dimensions and configuration as shown in the drawings. And ;

G) the lining plate of the back of the carriage is broken off;

e) the angle of inclination of the rear vertical wall of the carriage is less than 100°;

e) sharp corners and edges on the surface of that part of the platform where the shuttle slides, breaks and sagging from hardening on the back of the shuttle, strong tension on the regulator.

A break in the lower thread can occur for the following reasons:

A) the screw for adjusting the tension of the lower thread on the hook is tightly tightened;

b) the back of the carriage is raised high - bend it down by 1 mm, the thread will stop pinching, and its breakage will be eliminated;

V) sharp corners and edges on the surface of that part of the platform where the shuttle slides.

Skipping stitches in a line occurs for the following reasons:

A) the distance (in height) between the nose of the hook and the eye of the needle at the moment of their meeting is less than 1.0 mm. Lower the needle bar to 3-2.5 mm (see above) or bend the front of the carriage;

b) the needle-nose gap of the shuttle in the vertical plane is more than 0.1 mm (see above);

V) the distance between the shuttle and the needle, when it is in its lowest position, is less than 2 mm. Turn the right eccentric screw on the bar (under the platform). If there is no such eccentric (it is not provided for by the design), remove the rod.

The bar is a part under the platform of the machine ( ).

Fig.126 Rod with repair bend
("Singer" with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):

It connects the carriage mount to the vertical shaft. To ensure that the shuttle enters the needle at a distance of 5 mm, it is necessary to shorten the bar. To do this, do the following:

1) heat the middle of the rod over an open fire to 800-850 ° C (until raspberry color);

2) bend the rod in a vice, the jaws of which are separated by 40-45 mm;

3) heat the edges of the fold. Bend one end of the rod in the opposite direction. Do the same with the other end. Deflection arrow - 3.5-4 mm;

4) to eliminate distortions of the ends of the rod. Control of the correct adjustment of the parameter: the moment of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle with the needle must occur at the moment of stopping the lifting of the needle.

Tightening of the fabric (especially thin) in the line occurs due to the strong tension of the bobbin thread and the strong pressure of the foot on the fabric. It is necessary to release the screw on the hook and loosen the foot pressure screw, loosen the upper thread tension on the regulator. The rack teeth should be optimally raised and should not protrude from the plate higher than the height of the tooth. If the teeth are set differently, they will collect and tighten the fabric.

The tension of the compensating spring must be very weak.

To prevent the sewing machine from skipping stitches when sewing materials from very thin (such as nylon, tricotine, knitwear) to thick materials (such as four-layer chrome leather), do the following:

a) the left screw blocking the needle bar with the link, do not throw it away, but move it lower under the link so that it serves as a stop, and in the case of strong dynamic resistance to the needle, the needle bar could not move up in the link ( );

b) fill the vertical channel for the passage of the needle, made structurally in the body of the platform, with universal epoxy glue, and fill in the part of the channel that remains behind the needle on the left side (from the side of the long groove on the needle). The passage for the needle remains free, but the gap between the needle on the left and the filling mass must be 0.2 mm ( ).

Rice. 127 Repair of the channel for the passage of the needle
("Singer" with a swinging shuttle in a horizontal plane):

These two measures of a reconstruction nature are dictated by the practice of working on these machines.

You can increase the needle pitch by changing the design of the adjusting screw. Disassemble the needle pitch adjustment assembly. On the adjusting screw, cut the second ring flush with the main rod. Assemble the node.

In the case when the nose of the shuttle does not fit closely to the arc of the platform, a 0.5 mm thick stainless steel plate should be soldered onto the back plane of the shuttle.

These machines are 40-50 years old, and they still sew, which cannot be said about modern imported consumer goods. I bought it and threw it away, but my grandmother's rarity is carefully kept in many families, as a memory and as a masterpiece of Soviet industry.

Podolsky Order of the Red Banner of Labor Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinina produced such class 2-M sewing machines.

Unpretentious, reliable, easy to operate, always helped out in difficult times, and allowed many to earn a living. It is a pity to see how young people are now getting rid of old things that can serve their owners for a long time. Most of these cars now rest in a landfill. And before the sewing machine was affectionately called the nurse, she fed and sheathed the family.

It's time to get down to business.
First of all, we cut off the fabric that women love to sew on the "waist" of the machine. Believe me, there is no benefit from it, they stick used needles into it, bent, blunt, and then they try to reuse the same needles. And they cannot understand why this machine does not sew. In addition, after such sticking, the coating deteriorates and such scars remain. Used needles should be thrown into the trash can, where they belong.

We disassemble the machine, remove all covers, the needle plate, disassemble the shuttle, as shown in the photo.

It can be seen that pile from fabric and threads has accumulated on the body of the shuttle, there are even pieces of thread and all this is mixed with thickened oil.

And here, too, dust and thickened oil.

And this is the place where not a single seamstress, for the entire time of operation of the machine, never looks. Here pile and dust and sand accumulate, in general, everything that gets into the holes of the needle plate.

We remove all this byaka with a needle and tweezers.

In her how much is here.

The gear rack also needs to be cleaned, it is best to do this with a large needle.

And of course we clean the shuttle device, it is good to use kerosene for these purposes, if it is not there, then you can remove the thickened oil with a knife or a screwdriver.

All the dirt and old oil was removed, now we proceed to lubricate the machine.
For these purposes, it is best to use a regular disposable syringe, with the thickest possible needle. I don’t advise you to lubricate with an oiler, it pours oil, and you will get the machine dirty, and you will get dirty yourself. Oil can be purchased at any hardware store. Lubricating Oil Household will do.

Here, the arrows indicate the technological holes for lubrication, we instill 3-4 drops into each hole, no more is needed.

And here it is imperative to drip into both holes, one hole of the needle bar and the second presser foot.

In these places, the needle bar is rarely lubricated at all, the friction here is frantic and the metal is produced, a backlash is formed, as a result of which the needle hits the needle plate or the shuttle.

And accordingly, the foot should also move freely up and down. Without braking, otherwise the fabric will be pressed unevenly, it will simply walk under the foot and the stitches will be of different lengths.

And one more place that must be lubricated.

Winding the bobbin, drip three drops of oil.

And now we put the machine on its side. The arrows indicate all the places that need to be lubricated.

After complete lubrication, we turn the handle for a couple of minutes so that the oil flows into all the joints and slots of the machine mechanism. Feel the difference, it began to work in a completely different way, softly and quietly.

Pay special attention to the installation of the friction device.
Here you can see how not to do it, usually amateur masters install the friction washer this way, as a result, they do not turn on the working stroke. After that, they begin to turn on their imagination, cut out pucks from cardboard, wind the wire, in general, whoever is what.

This is how the washer should be, the protrusions should be out.

After that, we tighten the friction screw, and the stop screw.

The result of our work.

Do not store the sewing machine near heaters or in cold, damp places.

The sewing machine mechanism includes a huge number of functional components, each of which is responsible for certain actions. That's what it's all about complexity and importance sewing technical equipment. The specialists of the Vostok-Polyus service center in Moscow are able to fix any breakdown of the machine inexpensively and in the shortest possible time.

Possible malfunctions of the sewing machine

Needle set incorrectly. As a result, over time, the problem of looping and breakage of threads may occur;
Needle breakage. This malfunction provokes an incorrect location of the presser foot;
Inaccurate thread direction. To fix this, you will need to check the condition of the shuttle and the position of the upper thread;
Damage and regular tearing of the lower and upper threads;
Skipping stitches;
Too heavy stroke of the sewing machine;
The unit does not turn on;
Extraneous sound and rattle.

Repair of the sewing machine is necessary in any of the above cases. However, experts do not recommend carry out the recovery procedure with your own hands. A person who does not have enough knowledge and experience will not be able to repair the sewing machine and bring the equipment to the required state. His actions, on the contrary, will exacerbate an already difficult situation. In such cases always ready give your hand to professional help from the staff of the Vostok-Polyus sewing machine repair shop.

The working algorithm of the Vostok-Polyus foreman team

The client calls the hotline number indicated on the official website of the service center, brings his unit to one of the workshops in Moscow on his own or uses the courier delivery service from the company;
The specialist of the organization advises the client on any question of interest to him and gives him an informative comprehensive answer;
In the case when both parties come to a common agreement regarding the repair, our craftsmen proceed to the first restoration stage of the sewing machine, which consists in thorough diagnosis THAT. This allows you to quickly identify all the vulnerable points of a damaged device;
The next step is to repair the malfunction identified during the diagnostic process - we will repair the sewing machine quickly and inexpensively;
After the repair procedure, a second check is carried out, which allows you to finally make sure that the previous threat has been eliminated;
Issuance of a document evidencing a long-term warranty from the service center.

Benefits of professional sewing machine repair at Vostok-Pole

Vostok-Polyus managed to accumulate great experience in the field of repairing sewing machines in Moscow. This is what allows the company to provide its customers with exceptional quality services, but at the same time for optimal cost. Our repairmen in their work always use specialized equipment that does not cause the slightest harm to the elements of the sewing machine. Parts of the unit that have worn out over time, we only replace original spare parts that have been tested for strength and quality.

Today in this article we will publish many photos and videos of the painstaking process of restoring a very beautiful chest of drawers for a Singer sewing machine.

According to our data, the machine and case were made in Germany at the end of the 19th century. We found an engraved inscription dated 1895 on the mechanism.

Let's move on to the process itself.

We have already covered the stage of complete dismantling (link above)

RESTORATION OF OLD FURNITURE - RESTORATION OF VENEER

2. After all the elements were washed to the original color of the wood (solid poplar veneered with walnut veneer), we began to eliminate chips, cracks, and make up for losses.

In fact, over the years of service, the veneer has suffered a lot. Very large fragments were missing on the side and back. Numerous delaminations and damages were found on all corner parts, as well as on the rounded elements of the facades.

In front of you is a small video about this stage. Alexey Mikhailovich restores the lost veneer, and also makes solid wood inserts.

CUTTING THE LOST DECORATIVE ELEMENTS

An important stage of the restoration was restoration of lost decorative patterns from facades. All new elements are handmade by Pavel Morozov. A jigsaw was used (many probably remember it from school time), and then files and sandpaper.

As a result, at the output we have such a beautiful restored ornament.

HOW TO COLOR OLD FURNITURE. WE APPLY STAIN AND OIL.

After all the defects were eliminated, we prepared the chest of drawers for painting. In agreement with the customer, it was decided to cover with stain, small and wax.

We immediately suggest watching a video about how to properly stain furniture.

To apply stain on decorative elements, Pavel Morozov uses brushes, but when covering large flat surfaces, special tampons are used.

Here are the painted parts and elements of the sewing machine case. Beauty!!!

ASSEMBLY OF ANTIQUE FURNITURE

As mentioned above, this model is equipped with a special mechanism that allows you to remove and get the machine. At the time of admission to us, this system did not work.

Now, after our craftsmen have cleaned the metal parts from rust, dirt and other contaminants, and also completely restored them, everything now works (we shot a video that we will show in the final article).

Well, before you the process of assembling the case.

All elements are carefully returned to their places and in the next article we will show you the results of the restoration of the Singer sewing machine case of the late 19th century, although it is already clear that the result was excellent.

FURNITURE RESTORATION IN MOSCOW

If you are looking for craftsmen and a workshop where your antique furniture will be restored with care and quality, we will be happy to perform this work.

Our portfolio and articles about restorations speak well beyond any words.

And on our page Instagram We publish daily photos and videos about how we restore your order. Joins.

If you want to know how much it costs to restore your Singer sewing machine case (Singer) - write to us and attach photos.

Difficult repair of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and it needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to "be capricious" if the rules for its operation specified in the instructions are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not observed.

The main reason leading to the failure of the sewing machine is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of the sewing machine. Hemming the double hem of jeans, changing the zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

The main part of the sewing machine is the needle

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its "life" it makes thousands of tissue punctures and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the point of the needle becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle "hits" the metal part of the body of the machine, then the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, are we paying attention to it? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How will such a point pierce the fabric? The only way is to break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing in the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point, and "slow down", forming an excess of the upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason for the appearance of loops in the line. Moreover, a bent point will cause the thread to break periodically, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the upper thread is stretched to the limit.

It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly does not have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
Used needles do not need to be thrown away, as there are situations when needles break one after another, for example when sewing a leather bag. That's when you remember about the jar of old needles.

Another reason for setting up a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The blade of the needle (Fig. B) should be on the side of the nose of the hook. Remove the needle plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly began to loop and tear the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. The household needle has a special saw cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is precisely the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the shuttle nose and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and can touch the surface of the hook, scratch it, and even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Outwardly, the needle cannot be determined whether it is curved or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

In order for the sewing machine to work more “confidently” with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced that are designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and facilitate the passage of the thread in the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in the stitch and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

Thread looping in the line, as well as a characteristic knock during their work, is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters on your own without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often, children love to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the Chaika sewing machine quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have nicks, rusty spots. If there are notches, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the traces of the file, and loops will appear from below. Just do it carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the nose of the shuttle.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound around it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the nodes, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are notched, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread lint, the lower thread will come out in jerks, and the upper thread in the line will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You tighten it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread linters have accumulated, which prevent the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner fastening (Seagull) may have loosened.

But still, most often for sewing machines such as Chaika, the parameters of the shuttle and the needle fail. This is a complex type of repair of a sewing machine, or rather a setting, but for general acquaintance it is desirable to know the main reason due to which all the "trouble" of sewing machines occurs.

Fixing the needle bar and tensioner

The most common cause of sewing machine failure is the top thread. Thread breakage, thread winding in the stitch, uneven stitching, gaps, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even “falls out” of the case.

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing the zigzag stitch Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1 ... 2 (3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This setting is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle points (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The nose of the hook must simultaneously pass almost close to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10 socket wrench, and holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, this is not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the shuttle nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle starts to rise up. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when it rises by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet with the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as a right and left needle prick. With the left and right injection of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should "confidently" remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should extend just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work fine with such gaps, but if it is necessary to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only the master can set.

Care and lubrication of the sewing machine

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be needed if the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overloading during work, not give it into "the wrong" hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.

After a long period of work, clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, lint, and oil stains. Periodically, the shuttle itself, the shuttle mechanism, should be cleaned with a hard hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, work on it a little “idle”, especially if the machine has not been used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into the nodes and friction points.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, keep it away from dust, otherwise the dust oil will harden and the machine will turn hard or even jam. This case is discussed in the article