Cast on the first row of stitches with knitting needles. How to learn to knit with needles (for beginners). Set of loops, patterns for beginners. Set of loops for various products
Any knitting begins with a simple technique - a set of loops on the knitting needles. There are many options for casting loops, which, in a successful combination with a knitting pattern, make your product especially attractive, I suggest you learn twelve ways of casting loops. The choice of a set of loops should correspond to the type and purpose of the main knitting. For example, for knitting an elastic band (it is understood that the edge must be elastic so that the elastic band stretches well, while the edge must keep its shape, and, of course, be attractive), method No. 3 and No. 5, No. 8 is suitable. I tried in each form a set of loops to indicate which type of knitting it is most suitable for.
So, let's start with the basics. Any set of loops begins with the first loop, which is knitted in the same way in almost all types. To begin with, you need to take a comfortable body position: bend your arms at the elbows and hold them freely, without tension. The most convenient position, when the ball is at the bottom, so that it does not roll, it is advisable to place it in a box. To do this, the thread from the ball is taken in the left palm. The length of the hanging end of the thread should be approximately twice the width of the intended fabric for which loops are being cast.
Hold the working end of the thread in the palm of your left hand, the thread passes along the index finger and loops around the thumb. The threads are held in the palm of your hand, and the thumb and forefinger are taken to the sides under the loop, then they grab the thread with three fingers: 
Then, when casting on the initial row, two knitting needles are folded together, their ends are inserted into the loop on the thumb, the thread lying on the index finger is grabbed, and it is pulled into the loop on the thumb. After that, the knitted loop is removed from the thumb: 
So, we completed the first loop! Congratulations!
Methods of sets of loops:
Traditional (simple) set
Fringed buttonhole set
"Bulgarian Beginning"
"Air" set of loops
"Turkish" set of loops- 2 ways
Openwork set of loops
Set of loops from the center
Traditional (simple) set
The traditional cast on is the most common type of cast on when knitting. It can be used at the beginning of knitting any product. With this method, after a set of loops, from the very first row, you can start knitting the fabric with the selected pattern.
To do this, the thread from the ball is taken in the left palm. The length of the hanging end of the thread should be approximately twice the width of the intended fabric for which the loops are gaining.
Two knitting needles, folded together, are inserted into the loop on the thumb, pick up the thread lying on the index finger, and pull it into the loop on the thumb. After that, they drop the loop from the thumb and help these and forefingers tighten the loop formed on the knitting needle. 
Holding the index finger of the right hand, the resulting loop is lowered by the knitting needles down towards themselves. Then perform the same movements as in the formation of the first. There will already be two loops on the knitting needles. The following loops are performed in the same way as the second.
To prevent the lower chain from twisting around the knitting needles, each new loop is held with the index finger of the right hand. 
This is what a traditional set looks like!
Decorative buttonhole set with thickened edge
In this set of loops, the edge of the fabric is cord-shaped, giving the impression of a decorative edge. This version of the kit can be used when knitting mohair products - to strengthen the lower edge of the knitted fabric.
After a set of loops from the first row, you can begin to knit the fabric with the selected pattern. So, the loops of the initial row are formed from the main thread, and the lower chain is formed from a thick, double (it can also be tripled) thread.
In order to make the thread twice as thick, the main end from the ball is folded in half. 
On the fingers of the left hand, the threads are arranged so that the main one is on the index finger, the thick one is on the thumb, and loop A is between the index and thumb (b).
Two knitting needles, folded together, are inserted into loop A under the main thread (c). Loop A and the main thread on the needles - the first loop of the set. Holding it with the index finger of the right hand, lower the knitting needles down towards themselves. Next, a set of loops is performed in the traditional way (d).
If you make such a set with a triple thread, there is one secret, how to knit with a triple thread from one ball
: 
We fold the thread three times (photo 1). When knitting, we hold the thread so that the loop formed during folding is always in the direction of the end of the knitting needle. When we knit until the moment at which the loop remains very small and the triple thread ends, we pull the thread from the ball into the remaining loop, as shown in photo 4, and continue to knit further. The essence of this trick is that you do not need to wind three threads into one ball, or, even worse, knit from three balls, but you can knit from one ball, and as many as we need! 
a decorative set of loops with a thickened edge looks like this: 
Loop-to-loop set - non-elastic
Such an edge does not stretch, it keeps its shape well. It can be used to start knitting, and for group increase in loops, as well as for sewing buttonholes. After a set of loops from the first row, you can knit the fabric with the selected pattern.
As in the previous method, the free end of the thread here serves to form only the first loop, which is made with one knitting needle in the traditional way. Then the knitting needle with the loop is left in the right hand, and the free knitting needle is taken in the left hand.
A working thread is thrown over the left knitting needle, with the right knitting needle they grab the thread behind the left knitting needle and pull it into the loop located on the right knitting needle (b). The first loop has formed on the left needle. 
Thread the yarn over the left needle again and pull it through the loop on the right needle.
The required number of loops is cast on the left knitting needle, while on the right knitting needle there will always be one loop, which should be relatively long so that it is easy to pull the thread through it. At the end of the set, the loop from the right knitting needle is transferred to the left knitting needle.
This is what the set looks like: 
The edge of the product (pigtail) made with such a set looks very neat and decorative. Further processing of the edge is not required.
Fringed buttonhole set
The edge with a fringe is used for knitting mittens, scarves, trimmings for children's and women's products. After a set of loops from the first row, you can knit the fabric with the selected pattern.
Dial two loops as in the formation of a thickened edge, then for the fringe make 2-3 turns with a thickened thread. So alternate, making turns after each pair of loops. Finish the set with two loops. To form a fringe, one row is knitted: each loop is knitted with facial knitting, and the crochets are dropped from the left knitting needle (the fringe is obtained from them). 
Italian stitch set with scrap yarn
Italian cast on is a type of cast on where the edge remains elastic but looks flawless, ideal for 1 x 1 ribbing (=alternate knit 1, purl 1) and patent patterns.
So, for work, we need the main thread [the thread that knits the product (in the photo in white)], the auxiliary thread [may be a regular thread in a contrasting color, but I prefer to knit with an elastic thread (pink) and not remove it], knitting needles in 2 sizes. 
Important: the initial row and the next 4 rows are made with thinner knitting needles - a full size less than those with which the main fabric is knitted. First, perform the first loop, as when casting on the main method (Fig. 1. A, B, C, D). 
1. Circle the working thread around the index finger of the right hand. Auxiliary thread (the length of the auxiliary thread is equal to twice the width of the knitted part in finished form) lay around the thumb of the left hand. Hold the ends of the thread with your right hand. 
If it’s too difficult, you can make it easier: we take two threads (auxiliary and main) and tie on the right knitting needle with ONE knot, but so that it can then be moved along the knitting needle and subsequently untied. 
2. Next, we perform the following steps in the indicated order until the desired number of loops is reached:
A. Lay the auxiliary thread in front of the knitting needle, bring the knitting needle under the auxiliary thread and pick up the main thread in the direction of the arrow;
B. Bring the knitting needle under the auxiliary thread and grab the main thread in the direction of the arrow.
We turn, we got the following. 
3. We begin to knit the loops of the initial row in the following sequence:
A. The loop in front of the auxiliary thread is knitted with the front;
B. The loop behind the auxiliary thread is removed, while the working thread is pulled in front of the loop. 
4. In the next two rows, knit the front loops with the front loops, remove the purl loops, as with purl knitting, while stretching the thread in front of the loops. 
5. Then we switch to thicker knitting needles and continue to work with the appropriate pattern. Auxiliary thread (if it was just a thread of a contrasting color, you can remove it, if the thread is an elastic band, pull it up to the desired length and the second end of the thread, on the first (as you remember, there is already a knot) if we knit on circular knitting needles, untie the knot, pull the thread , tie the threads together): 
As a result, we got it (option on circular knitting needles)
Loop-loop set - elastic
The edge formed in this way stretches well, so it can be used both to start knitting, and to add a large number of loops in a row, to expand the fabric.
After a set of loops from the first row, you can start knitting the part with the selected pattern.
It is usually difficult to establish the length of the end of the thread for the set. In this embodiment, the free end of the thread is needed to form only the first loop, which is made with one knitting needle in the traditional way.
Then the knitting needle with the loop is taken in the left hand, and the free knitting needle in the right. Knit a loop with facial knit and leave it on the left knitting needle (Fig. a).
The newly elongated loop is also put on the left knitting needle (Fig. b). 
There are two loops on the left needle. Knit the second stitch in st and leave it on the left needle.
The newly elongated loop is again put on the left knitting needle. And so they continue to gain the required number of loops. 
This method is very convenient for beginner needlewomen, as it does not require calculating the length of the auxiliary thread and is very simple to perform.
"Bulgarian Beginning"
It is also called the "cruciform set". The edge of the product typed in this way looks very impressive. This set of stitches is well suited for 2x2 ribbing.
A relief edge is formed due to a set of loops and the first three rows. They begin to knit with a conceived pattern after completing three rows of edges.
Cast on two loops on the needles in the usual way, but with a thickened edge. 
To cast on the third loop and all subsequent odd loops, change the location of the thickened thread on the thumb and insert two knitting needles under the thickened thread on the inside of the thumb (Fig. 2). Dial even loops according to fig. 1. Thus, changing the location of the thickened thread on the thumb, dial an even number of loops.
The loops with this set are arranged in pairs, with the exception of the edge ones. Remove one knitting needle from the loops and knit one row of purl loops with a single thread, knitting each double loop separately. Next, knit the front row of the selected pattern.
This is what the “Bulgarian beginning” looks like.
"Air" set of loops
This method of casting on loops is used to obtain a thin edge in products, to add loops in groups at the edge of the fabric and when knitting some patterns.
In your right hand, take one knitting needle and a thread from a ball. Passing the thread between the middle and ring fingers of the left hand, throw the loop over the thumb in a clockwise direction. A set of loops is made by sequentially removing the loops from the thumb on one knitting needle. When picking up loops on the knitting needle, do not tighten the thread too much, as this will interfere with the knitting of the loops. 
Stitch set with additional thread (with open loops)
This edge of the gum in appearance resembles a set of loops made on a knitting machine. The bottom of products and sleeves, decorated with this edge, is more durable to wear, stretches well, and is beautiful.
For dialing, an additional thread of a contrasting color is used, which will be removed later.
So that the edge is not stretched, a set of loops is made with one knitting needle.
The ends of the main and additional threads are folded together and tied with a knot. One needle is inserted into the knot under the main thread.
The threads are placed on the fingers of the left hand so that the main thread is on the index finger, and the additional thread is on the thumb (light thread).
The loops are cast in the traditional way, with the loops on the needle obtained from the main thread, and the lower chain from the additional thread. 
Having typed the required number of loops, the additional thread is cut off. 
If open loops are needed along the edge of the part, then from the very first row they begin to knit with the intended pattern, and when the part is ready, an additional thread is woven from the set row. 
If, after the set, an elastic band 1x1 is knitted, then the first two rows are knitted with a double elastic band:
1st row - one front loop, remove the next one not knitted (the thread passes in front of the removed loop), etc .;
2nd row - the loops removed in the previous row are knitted with the front, and the knitted ones are removed (the thread passes in front of the removed loop), etc .; starting from the 3rd row - elastic band 1x1. 
When the elastic is tied, an additional thread is woven from the set. 
It turned out a perfect, round edge, like on a knitting machine! 
"Turkish" set of loops
An edge with open loops is used if it is necessary to continue knitting in the opposite direction. The set is made with two knitting needles of the same thickness, one of which - the lower one - with a fishing line.
The thread is placed on the fingers of the left hand in the same way as in the 1st method. One knitting needle (without fishing line) is taken in the right hand and the first loop is made. Next, two knitting needles are taken in the right hand: one with a loop and one - the lower one - with a fishing line.
The thread from the index finger is passed between the knitting needles towards you, and then placed on the lower knitting needle. 
The thread from the thumb is passed between the knitting needles towards you and placed on the upper knitting needle. 
So they alternate. With the correct set on the needles, one knitted row should form. 
When all the loops are dialed, the lower knitting needle is pulled out, while the lower loops remain on the fishing line. On the upper loops knit with the selected pattern.
For training, you can take threads of two colors; with the correct set on the lower and upper knitting needles, loops of different colors are obtained.
There is a lighter version of the same set :
To work, we need two circular knitting needles on a fishing line of the same number.
We tie a loop on the lower knitting needle. We will need it so that in the future the thread will be kept on the knitting needles. 
We put both knitting needles together and begin to make thread turns around them. 
How many turns we make, so many loops will be on one knitting needle. Since we will knit in both directions, we will get, for example, with 15 turns - 15 loops on the upper knitting needle and 15 loops on the lower knitting needle. 
We pull out the lower knitting needle so that the coils remain on the fishing line for the time being. This is done so that we can knit the turns with facial loops on the upper knitting needle. 
We knit the turns from the upper knitting needle with facial loops. 
It turned out 15 facial loops. 
Now the thread is at the end of the upper needle, BUT at the beginning of the lower one. That is, we turn the knitting from top to bottom, and begin to knit the turns from the lower knitting needle with front loops. 
Repeat steps D and F until the desired size of the canvas. 
As you can see, there is no seam, the canvas is evenly distributed in both directions.
This method is very convenient if you need to make a double edge. To do this, we fold the resulting fabric in half, transfer the first loop of the front knitting needle to the back knitting needle and knit 2 loops together.
Also, this set can be used when knitting socks from a sock or mittens from fingers. Or with double-sided knitting!
Openwork set of loops
This set of loops is used to decorate children's and women's products.
For this set, a thin needle and a crochet hook of uniform thickness are used. The thinner the needle and hook, the smaller the scallops will be.
After a set of loops from the first row, they begin to knit the fabric with the selected pattern.
The knitting needle and crochet hook are taken in the right hand so that the hook is head up and slightly further than the knitting needle. Cast on 8 air loops using the loop on the thumb of the left hand. 
The 9th loop is recruited only on the hook. 
Then, holding the loops on the knitting needle with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, they drag the hook and loop through them, thus knitting all eight loops. 
The needle is carefully removed and threaded through the first and last loops of the scallop. 
Before each new festoon, the knitting needle and the hook are again put together. 
Further, when knitting the 1st row with the selected pattern in the middle of each scallop, one or two loops are added (with crochets).
In the middle of very small scallops, loops can be omitted.
Set of loops from the center
You can dial loops in two ways:
You can do this with 2 needles, then distribute the cast-on stitches on 4 needles, because. this set is usually used for knitting napkins on knitting needles, and this will require a set of stocking needles (5 double-sided knitting needles).
But such a set looks better and neater if it is done in the following way:
To work, we need a hook and a set of stocking needles of the same size.
Form a ring, as for knitting air loops, then pull the thread through it and tie a single crochet. 
As many single crochets are knitted into the ring as indicated in the product description (let's say 12 loops). 
At the same time, together with the loops, knit the remaining end of the thread, so the ring will be more dense, and the “tail” of the thread will already be tied into the product, pull the ring with the end of the thread so that the hole in the middle disappears. 
Close the ring with a connecting post. 
Crochet through the front thread of the single crochet one loop at a time and transfer them to the knitting needle. 
First, distribute the cast-on number of loops on three knitting needles. The number of stitches on each needle may not be the same. 
First, one row is knitted with facial crossed (grandmother's) loops, which are quite dense. When distributing loops on 4 knitting needles, knitting is not stretched. 
For example, a blouse that is knitted from two parts-napkins, which, in turn, are knitted from the center. Or a hat tied at the top. 
A set of loops on the knitting needles is the very first obstacle that a novice craftswoman faces. Of course, mothers and grandmothers will always tell us about the traditional option, but besides it, there are many others that are suitable for different occasions and ideally frame your work, as well as give its edge the advantages necessary in each case. This master class with detailed descriptions, photos and videos will help you make your choice and teach you many variations of the loop set..
Traditional knitting set
Absolutely all knitters are familiar with this option, because it is the simplest, most versatile and, accordingly, very common. Knitting with this emb. allows you to make a pattern already starting from the first row and is perfect for the neck and sleeves. Suitable for both regular and circular sp.
To begin with, we should take n. in the left hand, leaving in stock n., which should be two or two and a half times (depending on the density of knitting) longer than the width of the finished fabric. Next, circle it around the thumb clockwise and put it on the index finger, holding both ends in the palm of your hand. Two knitting needles folded together are inserted into the item on the thumb, we grab n. from the index finger and drag it into the loop on the big p., then we drop it, while helping ourselves to tighten the loop with the thumb and forefinger. After, holding p. we lower the knitting needles down onto ourselves and repeat the knitting, which is described earlier, as a result we will already get two loops. To prevent the chain from twisting, you should constantly hold the pet. uk. P..
Video lesson
Cord loop set
Such an embankment loops creates the effect of a decorative edge and is ideal for reinforcing the bottom of the fabric when making mohair products. As in the previous case, here we can also start knitting the main pattern immediately after the first row; the loops of the initial row are formed from the main thread, and the lower chain is formed from a thick thread folded in three, which makes the neck of the product quite strong. Suitable for any spa, including circular ones.
We add n. three times, put on the left palm so that the main. n. was on the n., triple on a large one, the formed loop is between us. n. and b. p.. Further, everything is very similar to the traditional embankment: we introduce two knitting needles into the loop under the main n. and, holding it, we continue to work as in the first option.
Video lesson
Buttonhole set with thickened edge
It is used most often as a finish, because it perfectly retains the shape of the neck of the product and serves as an ornament for subsequent gum or garter stitch. Also such an emb. loops with a thickened edge are called "double"; the sealed end is formed due to the nab. p. and 1 p., and then, for example, elastic bands 1x1.
After placing the double thread on the fingers with the “eight”, we make the first loop, tighten it. Next, we will knit in the same way as with the usual embankment. pet., but with only one difference - on the thumb we remain with double n., on the index finger - with one (we hold the second together with the knitting needles). Thus, a dense “pigtail” is formed, which will reliably protect our work from deformation.
A set of loops with a thickened edge: video master class
Tubular hinge set
This option is ideal in cases where we need an elastic and elastic end. Knitted after the 1x1 elastic band, it will perfectly retain the shape of the product, protecting the cr. from stretching. In addition, the tubular embankment loops are perfect for faces. smooth surface, for decorating the sleeve or neck of a sweater.
For work, we need yarn of two different colors, but the same thickness. Additional n. we will tie the auxiliary p. and then delete it. The number of stitches should be two times less than what we need + 1 stitch (for example, if we need a canvas with a width of 60 stitches, we make 30+1 stitches).
Loose ponytail n. and sp. put in the right hand, and n. from the skein - to the left, holding it, circle around the large and index p .. Sp. enter from the bottom up under n. big p., capture n. from uk. p. and pull out the loop, resulting in a crossed p.. We continue knitting inc. n., without pulling n., until we get to sp. 31 p., then turn the work over and work already on the main. n .: we knit a row completely l. n. behind the back wall, next p. - And. n., and the third p. already l. etc., but in the classical way - behind the front wall; thus, on our sp. along the bottom edge alternately go p. and help. colors.
Next, we make the first p. out., Then we pick up the bow of the p. tsv., we throw it on the left cn. and we knit l. p .. Then - and. p., we pick it up and do everything the same as with the previous p., we continue this way until the end of the p.
It is important to remember that the items on top should always be worn out, and at the bottom (those for which we capture the sp.), always faces.!
We remove the auxiliary thread and take on our pattern. As mentioned earlier, for such a set, the most suitable options are 1x1 or 2x2 rubber bands. In the case of 1x1, just continue elm. p. how they lie on sp .: i. p. - out., l. p. - persons ..
Tubular loop set: video master class
Tubular stitch set
This option will give us a rounded cr., which is ideal for a 1x1 or 2x2 elastic band for the neck of the product. Suitable for both regular and circular sp.
To begin with, we will need, as in the previous case, to dial in. contrast n. the number of p., half the required, and make several p..
Main n. - 1 out. p., then - 3 p. persons. ch. (1 p. - L. p., 2 p. - i. p., 3 p. - l. p.), turn to the wrong side and then make the first p. Purl, insert the tip of the right cn. in the first stroke, we put on the item on the left cn. and make her faces. behind the back wall. We continue knitting in the same way until we reach the last stitch, which is knitted. inside out, raise the stroke under the chrome. p. and we knit it, and then we make it with a conceived pattern, we just need to remove the auxiliary. n., cutting a few p.
Video lesson
Invisible set of loops
This option helps if we start work from above (for example, from the neck of a sweater) and helps to avoid unnecessary seams. Knitters know various ways, but we will advise you only one invisible one - the simplest, most inconspicuous and universal.
We rewind the rewind. n. such a length that it accommodates all the items that we want to dial. Working n., releasing a small tail, we collect 1 p. with a sliding knot and place it at the tip of the joint. n., holding it under the sp., so that the sp. n. was in front of the worker.
Then we need to take a slave. and rev. n. in the left hand and keep them together all the time; big n. lion. hands are inserted between the slave. and rev. n. and pull the finger towards us, while crossing the slave with the knitting needles. and rev. n..
Left order. p., insert between the slave. and auxiliary n. and we pull it away from us, holding it on it. n., we get something like a rhombus with a slave. n. for more p .. After lowering the tip of the cn. inside the rhombus and grab the slave. n. to ourselves and up, we get the second p..
Later, we turn the brush towards ourselves and change the position of the river. n. and in. n. Because of this, the working will pass under the auxiliary below the cn .. We lower the cn. behind the worker n. from under the far side of the rhombus inward, capturing the worker. n. to ourselves and up, we get the third p .. We continue knitting until the required width is reached.
Video lesson
Turkish
The edge with open loops, which is obtained with such a set, is used if in the future it is necessary to continue knitting in opposite directions. Loops are typed in the traditional way alternately on each knitting needle (you can also use circular ones).
For two bedrooms we collect one point of the same thickness, and the next - on the second joint. and so alternately alternate sp. until we reach the required length. If we make a Turkish emb. right, then we end up with one knitted p ..
Video lesson
Temporary
The temporary set is also universal, suitable in cases where you need to make cr. as inconspicuous as possible against the background of the pattern - when knitting the neck of the product or the edge of the sweater, for example. Great for gum.
We make p. from the main. threads for 1 sp., add aux. n., we go under it and grab the main. n., get out from under the auxiliary, throw on the main. n. on sp. We continue knitting until the required number of sts is reached, later we turn the work and remove 1 st with knitting needles as an edge, the next out. remove, then - l. p. and so on until the end of the river, we repeat one more river, and then we can easily pull out the auxiliary. n..
Video lesson
Bulgarian
The Bulgarian set with knitting needles, also called cruciform or “Bulgarian beginning”, is widespread due to the simplicity of execution and the resulting voluminous, dense edge, which has not only practical, but also decorative value. This knitting is suitable for both the neck of the product and for decorating the edge.
We need to dial p. in the usual way, leaving behind a tail (the number of p. * 4 cm long) and then work on the faces. crossed loops, knitting each pair of loops of the left cn. as one. As a working thread, we have yarn in the form of a double thread, which consists of n. from the skein and the remaining tail. The first two stitches have already been knitted by one lyceum. Crossed, but not yet removed from the left sp .. Next r. - lyceums. n. only yarn from a ball. Last river: above the previous river. we knit the wrong ones, from the broaches between them - the front ones.
The workflow is clearly shown in this video tutorial:
Decorative set with crossed loops
Perfect for knitting the neck of a blouse or its sleeves.
With double yarn we collect on sp. an even number of sts in the same way as in the “Bulgarian beginning” (see above), the row is worn out. pet. we do not knit.
In the next r. remove chrome. n., 1 i. p., 1 l. n. behind the back wall, alternate to the end of the river, i.e., out. we do it over the inside, the yarns are facial, they will give us crossed loops as a result. 2nd row - remove the edge, 1 purl, 1 front behind the back wall. Alternate to the end of the row, i.e. knit the purl over the purl, and knit the yarn over with the front ones - from them crossed loops are obtained. From the next river you can proceed to the main drawing.
Decorative openwork set with knitting needles
This option is also suitable as a decoration for the edge of the product and its neck. It is quite elastic and soft, looks like knitted lace.
We need to dial in two sp. etc., as in the previous case - an even number, do not forget to leave a long tail as well.
1st p. - we connect the main n. with a spare end and knit together 2 loops behind the back walls.
2nd p. (facial st. of the canvas, we knit only the main n., cut off the remaining tail) - without separating the double sts, we knit their lyceums. behind the front walls.
3rd r. - elastic bands 1 × 1: out. n. over the wrong side, lyceums. we perform from broaches between purl. p. and before the last edge.
After all this, you can safely proceed to the pattern according to your scheme.
Fringed buttonhole set
In this case, we are talking about a purely decorative set. Of course, it is far from suitable for every item, but this set of eyelets looks original and can easily decorate, for example, a blanket or rug, scarf or mittens, and also serve as a decoration for children's and women's products.
We hang on the pointer. p. yarn from the ball, and wrap the free tail around the thumb; after that we introduce 2 sp. in a loop on a large n. and capture both n. that come from the pointer. p., and output in p. on a large one. We drop the yarn from the large st and tighten the st. on the spoke.
As a result of these actions, we will get the first fringe loop. We can adjust its length with the help of the tension force of the tip n, but if it is difficult for you to do it evenly, you can use a cardboard template.
Then we re-enter the under p. on b. finger and grab both threads coming from the index finger, bring them out in the stitch on the big one, continue knitting until the end of the river, having received a set of double stitches, after that you can start working on the planned pattern.
Video lesson
We hope that our job descriptions, photo and video tutorials will help you master these stitching techniques in the shortest possible time. Thanks to them, you can make a beautiful sweater, plaid or scarf, framing it neatly and correctly, which will make the thing knitted by your hands strong, warm and durable.
Hello dear friends!
Today our lesson is devoted to how to cast on knitting needles and is it enough to know only one way to cast on to use it all the time?
In principle, once you have mastered just one set of stitches on your needles in the usual way, which is universal, you can use it to knit anything you want. It was this method that my grandmother used all her life and nothing: sweaters and vests, knitted by her, were worn with a bang!
But ... if you want the edge of the product to fully fulfill the functions assigned to it (be more elastic or, conversely, stretch less, be denser and thicker or thinner and more inconspicuous), then I still recommend that you familiarize yourself and learn these methods of dialing loops.
I will not describe verbally each of the methods - I myself would not understand what was happening, so I prepared for you a photo with loops typed in different ways and video tutorials from knitting masters. I hope you understand everything.
How to cast on loops
Method 1. A set of "air" loops
The edge of the product, typed in this, the easiest way to perform, is thin and elastic.
To be honest, I use this method of casting on only for casting on additional loops, for example, when making a one-piece sleeve or buttonholes.
In the video tutorial, which shows how to dial “air” loops in two ways, I usually prefer to do the second one, only I use my index finger when typing - my grandmother taught me that in childhood. But it's convenient for someone.
Air loops, for example, I used to knit sleeves in this one.
Method 2. Regular set of loops
As I said above, this set of loops is universal and is used in knitting more often than others.
Having learned only this method of casting loops, you can immediately begin to master the front and back loops, which will be discussed in one of the following knitting lessons.
The only addition to the video tutorial is that with the usual set of loops, you need to use not one knitting needle, but two knitted together.
Then, after pulling out one of the knitting needles, it will be much more convenient to knit the loops of the first row - not so tight.
Method 3. A set of loops with a thickened edge
This set of loops used where it is necessary to strengthen the edge of the knitted fabric, for example, when knitting casual clothes or mohair products.
The loops with this method are cast on two knitting needles in the same way as the second method, but with a slight difference, which you can see in this video tutorial.
Method 4. Cross-shaped set of loops
This set of loops has another name - "Bulgarian beginning", it is more often used as an edge trim in women's and children's clothing.
The edge of the product looks very nice, made with this set of loops of thick yarn and the same knitting needles. You can verify this by looking at, for which I knitted a cross-shaped set of loops.
Method 5. Italian set of loops
I must admit right away that I myself mastered the Italian set of loops, which is given here as the fifth method, only during the preparation of the playlist - somehow I didn’t have to use this method of set of loops before (I’m such a “great connoisseur” in knitting).
But I appreciated this method and used it in knitting.
Casting on in this way for rib knitting 1 x 1 or 2 x 2, you will get a smooth elastic edge, as if machine knitted.
It can be used everywhere, but especially where good stretch is needed, such as sweater collars, hats.
Method 6. Cast on stitches with an auxiliary thread
This set of loops, very similar in appearance to Italian, is convenient in that you do not need to unwind the long end of the thread, which often remains too long or, conversely, it is not enough.
The auxiliary thread can be of any color, since at the end of the set of the required number of loops, it is pulled out.
Method 7. An unusual set of loops without unwinding the thread
I met this unusual set of loops quite recently and I really wanted to add this video to my post on the set of loops.
After repeatedly watching these video tutorials with knitting needles in your hands, you will definitely understand and understand how to cast on knitting needles!
Just do not rush to master all the methods at once, so that you don’t get “porridge” in your head.
This method of casting on for the initial row of knitting is the most common. It is simple, allows you to cast on loops quickly enough, gives an elastic, moderately stretching edge. This set of loops of the initial row is also called universal or main. The typesetting looks different on both sides: a jagged edge on one side and a pigtail on the other. You can choose any as the front.
The main method is convenient and fast. Its only drawback is that it is difficult to determine the length of the free end of the thread by eye, and if it is not enough, you will have to dial the loops again. Therefore, we first determine the length of the free end of the thread. To do this, you need to take one of the knitting needles with which you are going to knit and wrap around the knitting needle 10 times (one turn is equal to one loop).
The loops are cast on two knitting needles, folded together so that the initial row is not tightened.
Important: the free end of the thread must be laid exactly as shown in the photo - with the end away from you. Otherwise, the formation of loops to a greater extent will not come from the ball (as needed), but from the free end of the thread, and it may not be enough.
So, the thread is placed on the palm of the left hand free end away from you, pinch it with the third, fourth and fifth fingers; circle the end of the thread with the index finger from the bottom up, and then the thumb from the bottom up and fold it together with the thread from the ball. On the index finger there is a thread coming from the ball, on the thumb - the free end of the thread. Knitting needles are inserted into the loop formed on the thumb from the outside from the bottom up, the thread is grabbed from the index finger and pulled into this loop. The knitting needles with the first loop are pulled towards them and down, the ends of the knitting needles are again inserted into the loop on the thumb and the thread is grabbed from the index finger. The sequence of actions is shown in the figure.
The initial row of loops, typed in the main way
Video lesson Set the initial row of loops in the main (universal) way
Types of loops and their conditional notation in the pattern repeat:
- Two or more loops together with a face crossed loop
- Three loops together, after swapping the second and first loops
Set of loops of the initial row
Knitting a product or sample begins with a set of loops of the initial row. The loops are cast on two knitting needles folded together. This is done so that the loops of the initial row are easily stretched and it is easier to knit the loops of the next row.
There are many options for a set of loops - from one thread, from two, thickened yarn, with fringe and others. You should choose the type of set that is more consistent with the knitting pattern. Let's take a look at some of the more common methods.
The simplest set
Starting knitting, you need to dial the main loops. This set is formed by using two knitting needles connected together. The thread is measured three times longer than the expected width of the product and placed on the index finger of the left hand so that the thread coming from the ball is between the index and middle fingers. The end of the thread, from the side of the palm, is wrapped around the thumb.
The threads are held in the palm of your hand, and the thumb and forefinger are taken away from each other. Two knitting needles are taken in the right hand and inserted under the loop of the thumb from the bottom up. Then they grab the thread on the index finger and make it through the loop on the thumb (Fig. 202, A).
The loop from the thumb is dropped and the thread thrown over is pulled up to the knitting needles (Fig. 202, B). The first main loop is formed.
The set is continued, the knitting needles are first placed under the loop on the thumb, then the thread is grabbed on the index finger and pulled through on the thumb, the thread is evenly tightened on the knitting needles (Fig. 202, B).
Set of loops with one thread
This set is mainly used in the formation of buttonholes or at the edges of the product, continuing any ledge.
Knitting with a knitting needle is held in the right hand and with the index finger of the left hand they put a loop on the knitting needle (Fig. 203). Thus gain the required number of loops.
decorative set
The decorative set is used in the erasers of mittens or in the collars of jackets and jumpers. It is formed as follows: the yarn intended for the set is folded in half, then it is folded in half and knitting needles are placed in the middle. So, in the middle, the yarn is fourfold.
Three threads are placed on the thumb, one thread on the index finger, the needles remain in the middle (Fig. 204, A). The loop is dialed in two steps.
First, as in a simple set (Fig. 202), the knitting needles are inserted under the loop on the thumb, the thread on the index finger is grabbed, and the needles with the new loop are pulled under the thread on the thumb to their original position (Fig. 204, B). The second time, the thread around the thumb is wrapped from the side of the palm against itself and the knitting needles are inserted into this loop from above under the thread of the palm.
With the tips of the needles, the thread from the index finger is pulled through the loop of the thumb, the loop from the thumb is dropped and the thread is not too tight (Fig. 204, B).
Double knitting set
Double knitting is typed on a colored thread, which is then removed. At the end of the yarn, a loop is formed into which a knitting needle is placed - a thread on the index finger.
Colored thread on the thumb. The needle is placed under the colored thread, then the yarn is grabbed from the index finger (Fig. 205, A).
Each next loop is dialed like this - first, a knitting needle is passed under the yarn on the index finger, then under the colored thread and a loop is drawn on the knitting needle from the yarn of the index finger (Fig. 205, B).
The first row is knitted as follows: 1 loop is removed without knitting (thread behind the knitting needle) and 1 loop is knitted with facial knit (Fig. 205, B).
In each subsequent row, the removed and front loops are interchanged (Fig. 205, D).
Basic loops
The arc around the spoke forms a loop (Fig. 206). The loop has front and back walls, and the lower arc between the two loops is called a broach. The simplest and the basis for other loops are front and back loops.
The front loop can be formed in two ways: knitting for the front or back wall. Knitting the front loop for the front wall is considered to be "classic". Usually in the literature, under the front loop, this is exactly the way of knitting that is meant, of course, if there is no reservation that this should be done differently.
front loop knit as follows: the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop in front of the front wall on the left knitting needle, the thread is grabbed under the knitting needle of the right hand and pulled through the loop. The new loop remains on the right needle (Fig. 207 A).
Purl loop , as well as the front one, can be knitted in different ways. The right needle is inserted into the loop from right to left under the front wall. The thread is grabbed from above and pulled through the loop (Fig. 207, B), the new purl loop remains on the right knitting needle.
There are other ways of knitting front and back loops, but with them a pattern is formed well only from the front and back loops. When knitting other types of patterns, the loops lie in a different direction than with the "classic" method of knitting front and back loops.
flat knitting
Sweatshirts, jumpers, scarves, scarves and other products are knitted on two knitting needles, one row is knitted from right to left (front side of the product), and the other back (wrong side of the product). Therefore, if it is necessary to get the front surface, then they knit it with front loops, and back - the wrong side - with purl loops.
Figure 208 shows the front and back sides of knitting.
Cylindrical knitting
When knitting socks, mittens, skirts, jumpers on five or circular knitting needles, there are no reverse rows. When knitting on five knitting needles, first they pick up on two knitting needles together the same number of loops that are supposed to be knitted on one knitting needle, then pull one knitting needle out of the set, put them together again and dial them for the second knitting needle. Do the same with the third and fourth spokes. When the required number of loops is dialed on 4 knitting needles, they start knitting in a circle with the fifth knitting needle.
Beginning of knitting
Facial knitting forms a one-sided pattern. This knitting is also called hosiery, its front side is the front surface, the wrong side is the wrong side.
If the product starts with the front or wrong side, then in both cases the edge is wrapped on the front side. Therefore, usually the product starts with a double-sided pattern that does not twist.
If the product is supposed to be knitted with facial knitting, then the lower edge is knitted with cloves or purl loops.
1 way: 5-10 rows are knitted with a stitch, then one front row is knitted like this: 2 loops together with a front loop, 1 yarn over (the thread is placed on the knitting needle away from you, (Fig. 211). Then the same number of rows are knitted with the front stitch as it was before the openwork row. The chain of the set is cast on an additional knitting needle and the product is folded along the line of openwork (teeth).Before each loop, one loop of the chain of the set is placed on the needle and knitted together with the front loop.Make sure that the loops coincide vertically, otherwise the edge of the product will be skewed.If desired, the edge you can not knit, but hem.
2 way: 5-10 rows are knitted with front stitch, then one row on the front side is knitted with purl loops, then the same number of rows are knitted with front stitch as it was before the wrong side. On the wrong side, the knitting is folded and tied or sewn in the same way as in the previous case. Then continue the front pattern.
Having learned to knit only two types of loops (front and back), you can master any type of knitting. First, the simplest, and then more complex patterns, you will find in the "Patterns" section.
Edge or edge loops
Edge loops do not participate in the rapport of the pattern. After counting the loops for the pattern, regardless of their number, two more loops are added, which serve only to form the edge.
The edge of the product can be knitted even (pigtail) and with knots.
Smooth edge (Fig. 209, A).
1st way. At the beginning of knitting a row, the edge loop is re-shot, while the working thread is in front of the knitting needle. The last edge loop is knitted front.
2nd way. At the beginning of knitting a row, the edge loop is re-shot, while the working thread is in front of the knitting needle. The last edge loop is purl-knitted.
Edge with knots (Fig. 209, B).
At the beginning of knitting a row, the edge loop is re-shot, while the working thread is behind the knitting needle. The last edge loop is knitted front.
Fastening loops
After the knitting of the product or sample is completed, the last row of open loops is fixed. You can do this in two ways.
1st way- using a knitting needle (Fig. 210). The edge first loop, as usual, is re-slipped onto the right knitting needle untied. The next loop is knitted with the front one, then the previous loop is pulled off with the end of the left knitting needle, and the right knitting needle is pulled through the front one. After that, the drawn loop is dropped and repeat all over again until the end of the row. The thread is cut off and pulled through the last loop, thereby securing the knitting.
2nd way- with a needle. Leave the end of the working thread about three times longer than the cloth to be closed and make it into the needle. The needle is passed into the extreme loop of the last row of loops from the front to the wrong side, then into the 2nd loop from the wrong side to the front and the working thread is pulled through these three loops. After that, the needle is inserted into the 1st loop from the front side to the wrong side and into the 3rd loop from the wrong side to the front, etc.
With this fastening of the loops, the last row stretches just as well as when fastening the loops with knitting needles, only pigtails do not form.
Types of loops and their conditional notation in pattern repeat
Facial loop (Fig. 2).
The end of the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop on the left knitting needle from left to right, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop towards you.
In the rapport of the pattern, write down: 1 front.
Facial crossed loop (Fig. 3).
The end of the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop on the left knitting needle from the right to the left, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop towards you.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 facial crossed.
Purl loop (Fig. 4).
The thread is thrown on the left knitting needle. The right needle is inserted under the working thread and into the loop from right to left, grab the working thread in front of the knitting needle and pull the loop away from you.
In the rapport of the pattern, write down: 1 Purl.
Purl crossed loop (Fig. 5).
The thread is thrown on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread and the loop on the left knitting needle from back to front from left to right away from you, grab the working thread in front of the knitting needle and pull the loop away from you.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 Purl crossed.
Two or more loops together front (Fig. 6).
The right knitting needle is made in two or more loops on the left knitting needle from left to right, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop towards you.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: 2 together with the front.
Two or more loops together with the front crossed loop (Fig. 7).
The right knitting needle is made in two or more loops on the left knitting needle from the right to the left, grab the working thread behind the knitting needle and pull the loop towards you.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: 2 together with the front crossed.
Two loops together, the first is turned (Fig. 8).
With the end of the right knitting needle, first turn the first loop on the left knitting needle, and then knit it like two loops together with the front crossed.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 2 together with the front, the first is turned.
Two or more loops together with a purl loop (Fig. 9).
The thread is thrown on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread into the loops on the left knitting needle from right to left, the working thread is grabbed in front of the knitting needle and the loop is pulled out.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: 2 together wrong side.
Two loops together with a purl crossed loop (Fig. 10).
The thread is thrown on the left knitting needle. The right knitting needle is inserted under the working thread into the loops on the left knitting needle from back to front from left to right towards itself, the working thread is grabbed in front of the knitting needle and the loop is pulled out.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: Two purl crossed together.
Three loops together, having previously swapped the second and first loops (Fig. 11).
With the help of an additional knitting needle, the second and first loops on the left knitting needle are interchanged so that the second becomes the first and, when knitting the loops, closes the edge ones together. Knit loops as with the front crossed.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 3 together, swap the second and first.
Nakid (Fig. 12).
The end of the right knitting needle grabs the working thread from top to right to left over. The loop thrown over the knitting needle is held with the index finger of the right hand, the next loop is knitted.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: nakid.
To form an openwork and add a loop in the next row, the yarn is tied with a front or back loop.
When knitting in the next row, the yarn is not formed with a front crossed or purl crossed loop, only a loop is added.
The yarn is reversed (Fig. 13).
The right knitting needle grabs the working thread from the bottom left to the right away from you. The loop thrown over the knitting needle is held with the index finger of the right hand, the next loop is knitted.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: reverse crochet.
To form an openwork in the next row, the yarns are knitted with a front crossed or purl crossed loop.
When knitting in the next row, the yarn over with the front or back loop does not form an openwork, only a loop is added.
Double crochet (Fig. 14).
Two yarn overs are made with the end of the right knitting needle. To add loops in the next row, knit the right yarn over with the front one, and the second one with the wrong loop.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 2 crochets.
Air loop (Fig. 15).
They form a loop from the working thread, throw it on the right knitting needle.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 air loop.
Loop from the underlying row (Fig. 16).
The end of the right knitting needle is inserted into a loop located one or more rows below the one being knitted, the working thread is grabbed and the loop is pulled out. The loops located above the newly formed loop, depending on the pattern, are discarded or knitted.
In the rapport of the pattern, write down: 1 front from the loop of the underlying row.
Loops from the gap between the loops of the underlying row (Fig. 17).
The end of the right needle is inserted under the horizontal thread between the loops of the underlying row, the working thread is grabbed and the loop is pulled out.
In the rapport of the pattern, write down: 1 front from the gap between the loops of the underlying row.
Two are knitted from one loop (Fig. 18).
The loop on the left knitting needle is knitted twice - once with the front, and the second with the wrong loop, after which it is dropped from the knitting needle.
First, knit the second loop of the front crossed behind the knitted pattern. Without removing it from the left knitting needle, knit the first loop with the front one, then discard the loops from the left knitting needle.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: First, the second loop behind the knitting needle, then the first.
Moving the loop with an inclination to the right (Fig. 21).
First, knit the second loop of the front (or purl) in front of the knitted pattern. Without removing it from the left knitting needle, knit the first loop of the front (or wrong side), then the loops from the left knitting needle are discarded.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: First, the second loop in front of the knitting needle, then the first.
Moving several loops with an inclination to the left (Fig. 22).
When moving several loops, the order of their knitting changes. The required number of loops is re-shot for additional. knitting needle and leave it in front of the knitted pattern. Then several loops are knitted in the usual way, after which loops are knitted with additional. spokes.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 2-3 loops are removed for additional. knitting needle in front of the pattern.
Moving several loops with an inclination to the right (Fig. 23).
Loops for moving are reshooted for additional. knitting needle and leave it behind the knitted pattern. Then the required number of loops is knitted from the left knitting needle, after which the loops are knitted with additional. spokes.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 2 loops are removed for additional. knitting needle behind the pattern.
Elongated loop (Fig. 24 A and B).
If the loop is removed from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle, then it will take two rows in height; if this loop is left untied in the next row, it will increase even more, i.e., it will stretch out. The working thread, depending on the pattern, will pass behind the elongated loop or in front of it.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 loop is re-shot, the working thread behind the pattern (Fig. 24, a) or:
1 loop is re-shot, the working thread is in front of the pattern (Fig. 24, b).
If several loops are removed in a row and in several rows, then segments of thread are formed, which can serve as a decoration for the front side of the product. Then one of the loops of the previous row is knitted under the pieces of thread (Fig. 25).
In the rapport of the pattern, write down: 1 front (purl) under the pieces of thread.
An elongated loop with a crochet (Fig. 26).
They make a yarn over, and then the loop is re-knitted from the left knitting needle to the right. The working thread is on the needle along with the removed loop.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: yarn over, 1 loop is re-shot (Fig. 26 a).
In subsequent rows, depending on the pattern, you can reshoot the loop and yarn over unknitted, after making a yarn over.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 yarn over, yarn over and loop are re-shot (Fig. 26 b).
In subsequent rows, yarn over and loop are knitted.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 front together with crochets (Fig. 26, c).
Twisting loop (Fig. 27).
The right needle is directed to the gap between the loops on the left needle (for example, between the 3rd and 4th), grab the working thread from front to back and pull out a long loop. Depending on the pattern, it is knitted in the same row with the next loop or in the next row, while maintaining the dialed number of loops.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: they pull out a long loop from the gap between the 3rd and 4th loops.
Enlarged loops (Fig. 28).
The right knitting needle is directed into the loop and two or more turns (yokes) are made clockwise depending on the pattern, and then the loop is pulled out.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: 1 increased front loop with two crochets.
In the next row, the crochets are dropped, due to this the loop increases.
Loop stitches (Fig. 29).
With the right or left needle, depending on the slope of the stitch, they pick up the desired loop (according to the pattern, it can be enlarged, elongated, etc.), pull adjacent loops into it and throw it from the knitting needle to the loops. The thrown loop looks like a stitch.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write down: the first two are pulled into the 3rd loop.
In the descriptions of patterns, the knitting of the previous row is often repeated.
In the rapport of the pattern, they write: they knit according to the pattern. This means that they do knitting not as the rapport is written in the previous row, but as they see it when knitting a row, that is, if they see a loop being knitted with the front one, then they knit it with the front one, if it is wrong, then they knit it with the wrong one.
If there are yarns, but it is not indicated how to knit them, then they are knitted on the front side - front, on the wrong side - with a wrong loop.