How to sharpen a reusable razor. How to sharpen a razor blade: proven and effective methods How to sharpen a razor blade at home

With active use, a straight razor becomes dull. To restore the sharpness of the device, editing on the belt is enough, but in some cases it will be necessary to sharpen it on a stone. This process is very different from sharpening other items, for example, a knife, scissors. Sharpening must be done very carefully, because the quality of shaving depends on it.

How to choose a straight razor strap

It is necessary to distinguish between the process of sharpening and straightening, because in the first case a part of the metal sheet is removed, and in the second case, grinding from burrs, uneven surface of the point takes place. To maintain the blade in proper condition, you will need a small set of tools. Straight razor straightening strap is a must-have accessory for all owners of this tool. There are several options for this product:

suspended;
with wooden handles.

The former are popular because a person can independently adjust the tension. The best are models with a width for the entire blade, so that the entire blade fits, and it is even better to have a small margin so that the surface is treated evenly. Variants on a solid base are good because the tension will always be the same, this is especially useful for beginners in this matter.

As a rule, after sharpening on a stone, editing on a belt takes place using a special paste. It is necessary to pay attention to the variants of products that are already pasted directly at the factory. There are offers that are smeared with paste on one side and clean skin on the other. Masters prefer to apply it on their own, you can purchase options from different manufacturers.

How to choose a razor sharpening stone

As a rule, straight razors are sharpened at the factory. If desired, the buyer can edit on the belt to bring the blade to the desired sharpness. The touchstone should be used only if the blade is really damaged, damaged. Straight razor sharpening stones are different, many manufacturers offer different options for the material that does its job better than others.

At the moment, synthetic versions of stones are more popular. They are well suited for sharpening, have a relatively low price in relation to the quality obtained. When buying, you need to pay attention to such points:

the product must confidently keep its shape;
should not stand out a lot of suspension;
the surface must be fine-grained and uniform;
the stone should not have agglomerates (dense lumps);
the size of the bar 50X150 is considered optimal, but you can also find 70x200, 60x180.

How to sharpen a straight razor

Sharpening a straight razor requires some skill from a person, it is possible that the first time it will not work out as it should. The blade of the tool is very sensitive: with the wrong direction of movement, a change in the angle, cracks, bumps, etc. may appear.

stone

A straight razor sharpening block is used on rare occasions when serious damage to the blade has occurred. It is often impossible to carry it out, and if necessary, you need to follow the following algorithm:

Wet the stone with water.
Hold the tool with your index and thumb.
Press the comb ("spine") and the tip of the blade at the same time.
Move the razor along the stone.
At the end of the stone, turn the razor over, press in the same way, but with the other side. Be sure to turn over the comb (dull side) so as not to damage the blade.
With the same movement we lead the tool to the other side.

The process doesn't look very difficult, but it's important to keep the angle and keep the blade pressed against the block so as not to damage the surface. Important points to pay attention to:

the pressing force should be small, but you need to constantly maintain contact of the entire plane of the razor with the surface of the stone;
when moving forward and backward, the pressing force must be the same so that the blade sharpens evenly;
to avoid scratching the comb, cover it with electrical tape.

With belt

It is not entirely true to say that a straight razor sharpening belt is used, it is more correct to say - to edit. Often on the products on the one hand there is clean leather, and on the other, for example, a fabric that has a minimum grain size. For every 50 wires in the skin, 15 wires in the fabric should be done. To edit on the belt, you need to monitor the tension, the angle of the working surface. The process is carried out as follows:

Lay the blade flat on the surface.
Pull along the ridge part forward.
There should be slight pressure to prevent the edge from bending.
When you reach the extreme point, repeat the movement in the opposite direction.
You should not move too fast, as this can directly damage the belt and your fingers.

What care does a dangerous blade require between sharpening?

Such a sophisticated tool requires special care, on which its service life depends. After each use, be sure to rinse the razor with water and dry well until completely dry. Store the instrument in a dry, ventilated place to allow recovery (metal rest). If you do not use the tool very often, then it is recommended to treat the blade with paraffin oil.

The condition of the razor is affected by the frequency of its use, therefore, with daily use, the tool will fail quickly. It is recommended in such cases to have several spare devices in order to use them alternately. This will help extend their lifespan. In no case should you drop the razor, because even small chips on a thin blade will spoil the quality of shaving, the device will scratch the skin, pull out hair.

Video: how to sharpen a dangerous razor with your own hands

Among the variety of shaving devices, the most effective is a machine from a conventional razor. However, this tool has one big drawback, it quickly becomes dull and the cassette has to be changed often. For owners of razors, several effective home methods for sharpening them have been invented. This is discussed in more detail below.

Should I sharpen my razor myself?

The following facts speak in favor of a positive answer to this question:

If you take it yourself, you can extend the life of the machine by about the same period of time.
Such actions can significantly save, because. buying a replacement, you spend a significant amount of money. And sharpening helps to push back the campaign for new accessories for 2-3 months.
In some situations, it is problematic to buy a new pack of replacement blades. For example, when you urgently need to shave. To do this without being distracted by going to the store, you just need to sharpen the blades.

Using jeans: sharpening from improvised material

For those who do not know how to sharpen a razor, but need to shave urgently, old jeans will help to cope with the problem. Processing with this material is simple and affordable to restore the sharpness of the device.

Such sharpening of shaving blades will require a little more time than when processed using special devices. However, the result will be the same. To work, you need a round piece from jeans and a dull blade.

Additionally, you need to use a foil sleeve, a ruler, or take another even wooden object. The width of the latter should be less than the length of the cutting part of the razor. This condition must be observed, because. The edges of the blade contain protrusions that may interfere with sharpening the razor.

The sharpening process is as follows:

Denim material is placed wrong side up on any smooth surface.
A bar (cardboard or ruler) is placed under the fabric. In this case, the scars on the fabric should be located diagonally.
Next, apply the razor itself, draw it along the fabric and in the opposite direction. This step will take up to 150 movements.
At the end of sharpening, the blade is rinsed with water.

The process of processing "jeans" helps to increase the period of operation of the device by 2-3 times.

If you are tormented by the question of how to sharpen a razor and there is no desire to buy any devices, you can build a special pyramid for this purpose.

Such a device is useful for repeated use. Sharpening your razor is easy and convenient. When manufacturing, one should proceed from the dimensions of the machine. The device itself can be built from wooden slats and any available material that is used to upholster the sides of the figure. Using machines with this device is very profitable.

The razor is placed in the inner part of the pyramid with the blade pointing north. The device itself is also positioned taking into account the cardinal points.

Why a razor blade becomes sharp is still an open question for debate. Judging by the reviews of those who tried to build a special pyramid, we can conclude that the method really works.

One shaving machine is subject to processing in a pyramid for 1.5-4 years. Therefore, the device is considered effective and reliable, despite its secret exposure technique.

Sharpening accessories

When there is demand, there are always offers. Recently, on the windows of some stores you can find special devices that make it easy to sharpen a razor at home. The device itself resembles a special pen, which is equipped with a small plastic strip. On the outer part of which a composition (abrasive) is applied, which sharpens disposable and reusable machines. With this device, the service life is extended several times.

Such devices are easy to use and allow you to achieve a good effect. To process a razor using such a device, the following steps are distinguished:

A small amount of liquid soap, gel or shaving foam is applied to the top of the device.
The razor is taken and held over the abrasive in the direction opposite to the movement during the operation of the blade
To achieve the result, you need to do about 30 movements. And that's enough, the blade of dreams will become sharp.

That's all the ways that solve the question of how to sharpen a razor. Using these simple devices, you can save money and extend the life of the blades by several months.

Straight razor sharpening is a great training ground for learning all the principles of sharpening, no matter what tool.

It is the razor that gives the closest and most direct acquaintance with the edge.

Geometry evaluation
Geometry fix
sharpening
fine-tuning
Edit
Checking razor sharpness

1. Geometry evaluation

Before sharpening a straight razor, it is necessary to evaluate its geometry. This is necessary in order to better understand how to sharpen it and on which stones you need to start working: on coarser or smaller ones.

You can evaluate the geometry of the razor by placing it on a flat-parallel plate or simply on a flat surface, such as a piece of glass. It is necessary to put it so that the razor leads and its butt lie on the plate. Now we can notice how tightly the razor lies without gaps from the side of the edge and butt. In this case, we are lucky and have little work to do, and we can start on a 1000# stone, as long as there is no damage to the edge in the form of chips or “reverse smile”.

It is also very common that the razor lead is not completely adjacent to the plane, in which case we will have to eliminate this drawback, if possible, on a larger abrasive. We should not forget that after looking at the razor on one side, you need to look at the other.

It is also necessary to check the presence of a straight line on the edge or the presence of a correct smile. The violation of geometry is the so-called "reverse smile". This geometry will not allow us to properly sharpen the cutting edge and needs to be corrected.

2. Correction of geometry

The reverse smile and chips are removed by sweeping movements on a coarse abrasive or on a skin lying on a plane, for example, on glass. You can find out more about this in the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsqyvqts_eU&feature=player_embedded there, for 2.17 minutes, fan (swing) movements are shown

3. Sharpening

Sharpening is carried out on a stone with a grain size of 800-1000 grit. The main task of this stage is to form the leads and make sure that the risks from the abrasive go to the edge along the entire lead on each side. Without this requirement, further work on the razor will be practically useless. Do not forget that the stone for sharpening razors should be.

The butt of the razor should lie on the stone and be in the same plane with the cutting edge. The razor is sharpened with the cutting edge forward. The razor should always be turned over only through the butt. At this stage, you can work with one or two hands.

When sharpening, the razor should be at an angle to the direction line so that there is no swing during sharpening, and from here an involuntary tilt. The movements must be controlled throughout the entire length of the passage, as well as the force must be constant throughout the entire length of the stroke and removed only at a complete stop.

A straight razor has elastic descents and requires special pressure control. The pressing force during sharpening should decrease both during the transition from coarse to fine grain, and at the beginning and end of work on each bar. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the razor blade is very thin and when you press it, the edge itself is bent and you are already processing the transition edge from the undercut to the supply, increasing its width and grinding the butt and almost do not process the edge itself. With a decrease in force, you process the cutting edge. Pressing the RC to the abrasive is carried out by a circular rotation of the blade by the handle around its axis, it should be optimal and gradually decrease by the end of processing on the abrasive.
The second force - the force of movement along the abrasive must act and be directed strictly parallel to the working surface of the abrasive.
Thus, there should actually be no pressure on the butt, but only a touch, to maintain the angle.

To control sharpening, it is highly desirable to use optical controls. For someone, a magnifying glass with x10 magnification is enough, for someone it is more convenient to use Chinese microscopes

It is necessary to check that the risks along the entire length of the approach go to the cutting edge. The width of the inlets can have different widths, this is determined only by the geometry of the razor from the manufacturer, but the risks should go to the edge along the entire length, only then you can switch to a finer abrasive.

4. Finishing(in metalworking), finishing, finishing processing of parts in order to obtain accurate dimensions (1st class and above) and a clean surface corresponding to 10-14th classes, as well as grinding one part to another.

I draw your attention to the fact that by this stage the sharpening should already be completed, that is, the risks should be uniform and go to the cutting edge along the entire length of the supplies. Remember about abrasive hygiene. When switching to another, more finely abrasive stone, rinse the razor.

Finishing is carried out on stones with a grain size of 3000 - 4000 grit and then finer abrasives are used. Very often, after stones 3000 - 8000 grit, many practitioners move on to further refinement on natural abrasive stones ( , "Gusevsky" and other shales, ). These stones have long been considered the best for finishing razors and are often referred to as razor stones. Someone remains an adherent of synthetic abrasive stones when finishing a razor. Everyone chooses for himself those methods of sharpening and finishing, the results and speed of work on which he is more satisfied. It is believed that natural abrasive stones allow for a more comfortable shave than artificial ones.

Separately, I want to pay attention to. using it allows you to reduce sharpening time even more, reduce razor sharpening, get a more durable edge, as they do not leave behind deep scratches and at the same time remove scratches from previous stones well and quickly. In addition, it is very interesting and exciting.

Movements can be circular with a small radius and X-shaped, you can alternate: after working in a circular motion, then work with X-shaped and go to the next stone, more fine-grained. When finishing, you should try to use only one hand, since it is able to feel pressure much thinner, which is critical at this stage. It is not advisable to work with two hands, since it is almost impossible to control the minimum pressure.

If you control the sharpening / finishing process in magnification and tactilely on the “rash”, then it is quite possible to choose this optimal pressure or not pressure, based on the geometry of the razor, the processing area with each subsequent pebble - whether or not its work on the RC, based on the elasticity of a particular razor . After all, it is necessary to achieve an exit to the edge with each stone, and at the same time not to force the supply to bend in the opposite direction, due to excess pressure. By controlling the process, choosing the pressure is not so difficult. It's the optimal one. But in the last stages of work, usually it is also minimal and often less than the weight of the razor itself. Otherwise, it is not possible to achieve high sharpness and uniformity of the RK, as well as long-term durability.

5. Edit

Editing is carried out on a clean belt, it is desirable that it be a special belt for editing, and not any one that comes to hand. There are straight razor users who use strops with a variety of pastes, of which there are quite a few types. Whether or not to use a pasted belt is up to you, we can only add that a properly sharpened razor needs only a clean belt without pastes.

The razor on the belt is advanced with the butt forward

“2. How to rule.
If the line sags under the cutting edge when straightening the razor (see Figure 1), you will quickly fill up the cutting edge and the razor will become dull very quickly. If the sling sags under the back of the razor when straightening the razor (see Figure 2), the cutting edge will move flat, you will get a very sharp edge.
***

6. Checking razor sharpness

A razor is considered sharp when it can cut hair "on weight", that is, with a light touch. This is determined as follows: one hair is taken with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and cut with a razor over the fingers (Fig.). If the hair cuts easily, the razor is sharp.

The sharpness of a razor can also be determined on paper: thin tissue paper is folded and held with the index and thumb of the left hand; in the right hand they hold the razor away from themselves and, without pressure, draw along the fold of the paper (Fig.). If the paper cuts easily, the razor is sharp; if it is cut with difficulty, dull; if it cuts with a rustle, there is a rash on the razor.

These are methods that visually allow you to evaluate the sharpness of the razor, but you should not forget that the hair is very different in thickness and all this is very conditional.

What is a sharp razor? According to Dmitri Vladimir Dmitrievich Vasiliev) the razor should be sharp enough to gently and pleasantly scrape off the foam along with the bristles so that in one pass the skin is perfectly clean in this place, if you run your hand over this area of \u200b\u200bthe skin in the same direction.

An example of sharpening a kamisori straight razor from oldTor

Continuing the trials with a Japanese razor. A short set of abrasives and finishing on Yellow coticule.

Sharpening and finishing was carried out with a minimum set of stones. I used a Japanese Suehiro 1000\3000 grit combined synthetic water conditioner, and then finished the razor on a Belgian Yellow coticule:

Of the many Belgians that I have tried, this one is one of the most successful, it is a pity that it is quite small - the size of a cigarette pack. A pebble that has "gained condition", as I call it, rather thinly smoothed out from work on razors. Depending on the pressure, work along or across the structure, the amount of water, it gives a sufficient palette of subtle nuances when finishing on it. In general, I have an old Belgian, who works no less subtly, but the nature of the sticking of the supplies on it is somewhat different, and he is a little more inclined to lint the edge, and he releases a light, barely noticeable suspension much more readily - in this case it seemed to me more relevant to use it .
So, on the Suehiro 1000 side, I sharpened, on the 3000 side I worked, varying the amount of suspension or removing it altogether, incl. depending on which side of the razor I processed - when sharpening such razors, one should take into account the difference in the contact patch on different sides and the features of their interaction with the abrasive. Actually, this is also visible on any individual side - the difference between the surface of the refined part of the butt and the chamfer:

Of course, for the sake of aesthetics, it would be possible to take a rougher Belgian, for example, the Yellow "remake" from Ardennes Kotikul, and clean the carts more carefully from the marks of the 3000-nick, and then choose which stone to make the finish, but it was interesting for me to handle it the shortest set of stones, besides, I have already done a lot on such razors (and this one in particular) with a finish, and guangxi, and nakayama, and Thuringian slate, and Arkansas - it was time to try out the Belgian. In conclusion, I made 40 passes per side on a clean belt from a horse and that's it. Was pleased with the result./oldTor/ 01-06-2013 18:22/ http://forum.guns.ru/forum_light_message/224/988330.html/

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And another example of sharpening a dangerous razor on Japanese stones

... I continued to try nagura on razors
Very cool, I like it, I'm ready to say that this method seems to me the fastest and most convenient. I really don’t know how I could do it quickly and so conveniently for myself if I had not previously gained considerable experience in sharpening razors in other ways.
Today I tried this set of stones and nagur:

And, curiously, I used mejiro on both stones)
First I used botan on a softer stone, then tensyo. This pebble managed to smooth out a little for me and stopped giving its suspension, if it was not directed on purpose - although it seemed to me that the mixture of suspensions was a little bit on the nerd, but I didn’t observe this moment on the tenjo (although I pointed it with very light, neat movements) . Then on the same stone I used mejiro, it turned out like this:

Based on past tests of this stone with and without its own suspension, the result is clearly cleaner and more uniform, which was one of the confirmations for me that the mejiro suspension was basically working after all. By the way, after that, RK was already cutting the hair from the beard (after the tenjo, she only removed the shavings from the hair). By the way, the “step” of increasing the angle is slightly noticeable in the photo, made by the end of the work by a sharp decrease in pressure. For a better estimate of the scale, I took a photo of the hair lying on the chamfer:

Next, I used mejiro already on nakayama. By the way, on average, the time of work on each suspension was about 3 minutes, and the scenario of work on movements, the sequence of their shifts, etc., was the same.

So, after mejiro on nakayama it turned out like this:

The quality of hair cutting increased by weight, and in fact, I no longer saw the point of switching to coma-nagura. But it was boring to go to a clean stone right away) Therefore, I tried one tomo-nagura, kindly borrowed by Nikolai K., on which, fortunately, it is not small, I already managed to finish one knife made of hard carbon the other day - I liked it very much. Well, I brought the suspension, it was difficult to induce, very thin and light, I worked the same mintuki three on it, and then on a clean stone I made 30 passes per side. This is how it happened:

hair cut test is fine) Shaving is gorgeous!

In general, I liked everything very much - obviously, working for a nagura - “my» /oldTor/

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We express our deep gratitude to all the forum.guns.ru forum participants who took part in the discussion of topics on sharpening straight razors. Live communication, the experience of the participants, all this is a real storehouse of knowledge, one might say an encyclopedia on sharpening straight razors. We especially want to thank the participants under the nicknames: dmitrichW, 1shiva, oldTor, Bwman, Nikolay_K, wren, ivan-3, vlad-kram, Tras Krom and others.

About sharpening razors...

From the very beginning of the threads on sharpening dangerous razors on the forums, I didn’t attach much importance to this, I thought it wasn’t so serious and the vest’s maxes would completely destroy the good old fears and my knowledge in this area would be of no interest to anyone, but I repent and I’m glad I was wrong.

When, in the early 70s of the last century, on a one-year advanced training course on setting up and conducting an experiment, they began to teach me how to sharpen almost all tools, the masters, who were already under 80 years old, taught how to sharpen blades, they began with sharpening straight razors. Then we realized that this can be said to be the basis for understanding the process of sharpening blades in general - it teaches you to feel the RK when sharpening. I didn’t write or talk about it, sorry, I thought the guys wouldn’t understand me when I say that you need to learn how to sharpen knives from sharpening fear. Nicholas seems to understand.

With great respect to you, Dmitrich (Vladimir Dmitrievich Vasiliev)

Video on sharpening dangerous razors from Yaroslav aka oldTor

Working on Japanese natural stones with nagura
Part 1
Part 2

A.P. Kharitonchuk. The device and repair of household hardware. Graduate School. 1978

Konstantinov A.V. How to become a hairdresser. M.: Azbuka, 1993

Video on sharpening straight razors on Japanese stones http://www.youtube.com/watch?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBeifcKyKqo
Straight razor sharpening video by Lynn Abrams, founder of http://straightrazorplace.com/
Lynn Abrams - World of Straight Razor Shaving

We plan to soon prepare an article on advanced straight razor sharpening and on choosing stones for sharpening straight razors.

Sincerely, Site Administration

Sharpening razor blades will seem to many to be a useless and unlikely task. Why sharpen a razor when you can buy new cassettes or a disposable razor in the store? This is what almost all adherents of wet shaving think, but the efficiency of blade recovery is high, and the procedure itself is easy to do with your own hands.

Why sharpen your razor?

Wet shaving remains the most popular hair removal method for both men and women. A quality razor is not cheap. It is not always possible to buy new shaving cartridges or even a disposable razor. In this case, skills on how to sharpen a razor with your own hands will come in handy. Sharpening prolongs the life of the razor, thereby saving the budget.

Razor sharpeners

When demand is born from the consumer, you can always expect the proposals of producers. So, the RazorPit company (Denmark) has released a special device that allows you to sharpen razors at home. A more affordable analogue of this device is produced by the Ukrainian company Zattoch.

The devices are a plate or handle with a strip of plastic and an abrasive applied to it. According to the reviews of users who processed the razor blade with these devices, the life of the machines increases by almost three times. Sharpening occurs as follows:

a small amount of any shaving gel is applied to the working surface of the device;
the cutting part of the machine is carried out along the abrasive surface in the opposite direction to the movement of the machine during shaving;
perform 25 - 30 sharpening movements;
the working surface of the device and the machine are rinsed with water.

The procedure takes no more than 10 minutes, and your razor is ready to use again.

Improvised method - sharpening with jeans

If you do not know how to sharpen the blade of the machine, and you need to shave urgently, old jeans will solve the problem. Sharpening with jeans is the easiest and most affordable way to restore blades. It will take a little longer than processing with ready-made devices, but the effect will not be worse. You will need denim, a small rounded bar and a directly dull razor. A round bar will successfully replace a cardboard sleeve from food foil or a school ruler. Further sharpening occurs as follows:

denim is placed wrong side up;
a cardboard bar is placed under the fabric;
the razor is passed over the fabric against the shaving movement;
100 - 150 movements are performed, after which the blade is rinsed with water.

Processing with denim increases the life of the razor by 2 to 3 times.

Alternative method - sharpening in a pyramid

If you do not want to buy a special device, but the question of how to sharpen shaving blades is relevant, make a pyramid device. The pyramid is simple in execution, it can be used repeatedly. The pyramid is made according to the size of the machine and has a small size. The device can be open, in this case it is made of ordinary wooden slats, and deaf, when the four sides of the pyramid are sheathed with any material at hand.

A razor for every man is an indispensable attribute of a comfortable existence in society. She is selected exclusively for his chin, provides him with a neat look, and, as a result, self-confidence and good mood, which allows him to overcome life's obstacles. It is amazing that such a seemingly insignificant subject, in fact, has a tremendous impact. At a minimum, the shaving process can be simply pleasant if the razor is good. But even the best of them can become dull. How to be in this case?

The razor blade starts to fail

It's about the cassette machine Gillette(vest) with replaceable cutting cassettes. Of course, after this type of razor came into common use, the relevance of sharpening generally disappeared. This seemingly archaic process is associated for many only with a straight razor. It really always needed to be kept sharp, and cared for more carefully than a knife in a gourmet restaurant.

But as for how to sharpen a disposable razor or with replaceable nozzles, the question does not even come up. But in vain, because the razor blade, regardless of its configuration, can be sharpened. It is logical, since the blade itself can be sharpened. So why not use the same laws but with a razor?

In fact, all this does not require particularly delicate tools and equipment in the garage workshop, the simplest tools at home, which, no doubt, all men have, are quite suitable. For this, in fact, you need only two things:

The machine itself
old jeans

Of course, a flat surface on which everything will happen is also useful. It is necessary to turn out the jeans, and polish the machine on the wrong side in exactly the same steps as during shaving. But you just need to add more movement in the opposite direction.

There is a little advice about the surface used. Some razors have ridges at the corners of the cassette that will prevent the blades from being as tight as possible on the denim. For this case, you can use a ruler, for example, which will be narrower than the cassette razor vest (which, just, have similar protrusions). Thus, you get something similar to a homemade grinder for a razor.

You need to do about 40-50 movements in each direction. This will give the blades their former sharpness and the shave will again be habitually comfortable. Although this method significantly extends the life of the cassette, it is important to remember that it will become dull faster each time. The blade itself is thin and after the above operation becomes even thinner. Moreover, it is shrinking. Therefore, after some time it will simply be ineffective.

How to sharpen a straight razor?

In fact, this is a fairly extensive topic, although it seems that there is nothing complicated about it. The razor, having a very simple design, has very delicate and sensitive working principles. In general, directly sharpening takes one of the maintenance processes of this razor. How to sharpen a razor, and what is needed for this?

The process will consist of the following steps:

Inspection and inspection of the cutting surface (geometry)
Correction
Sharpening and finishing
Then check the sharpness

Each of the stages has its own details. But if in general, then the geometry check is performed as follows: you need to take a flat surface, glass is suitable, for example, and attach a razor to it so that the butt and the leads lie flat on it. This will indicate which grindstone you need to select: coarse or soft.

Finishing is done, for example, with a dense fabric, like a leather belt. You need to go to this stage after sharpening in order to work exclusively with the surface of the razor blade. A straight razor is loved by many men, but when it is purchased, in addition to good shaving quality and style, there is also a great need for caring for this tool.