Bruges lace: patterns for beginners. Bruges lace: napkins. Crochet lace: ribbon, Irish, Romanian, Bruges and coupling - patterns for beginners Crochet Vologda lace technique

Belgium is the birthplace of the interesting art of knitting, now called Bruges lace. Its name comes from the name of the town of Bruges, where as early as the 16th century, products made from threads crocheted in an unusual way were extremely popular and highly valued. Despite its ancient origin, this technique is quite popular today. We will help you master Bruges lace, and for those who have never held a hook before, diagrams for beginners will help.

Sometimes it is confused with Vologda lace, which is actually very similar in appearance. However, the difference is fundamental: in the Bruges technique, not bobbins are used, but a hook that imitates the bobbin ligature.

The construction of a lace pattern is based on the interlacing of a crocheted ribbon-braid and its connection into curls and ornaments. The tape itself is quite simple in execution, the complexity and at the same time the originality of the patterns create its attachments according to the pattern. It is this fantasy pattern that makes each product exclusive.

Bruges lace knitting technique with patterns

All knitting is based on the connection of three elements: the main tape, mesh and motifs.

This is how a small master class looks like, thanks to which we will create Bruges lace:

In the example shown, the main ribbon-tape is made of 5 st.s/n. It is knitted in two directions, and the number of columns in width and the size of the tape in length can vary according to the model. With air loops at the beginning of each row, an arch is made to connect motifs.

In this technique, you can use a wide variety of tape-braid:

Connection of motives with job description

In the process of knitting motifs, the braid-tape is connected by arches formed by air loops. The connection is made air. loop, st. s / n and art. b / n, depending on the pattern. The parallel arrangement of the braid is achieved by connecting two ribbons with the same columns. The divergence of the tapes is obtained by connecting columns of different heights, so we achieve the bending of the tape:

Complex columns form a grid and fill the void created by knitting the bend of the tape:

You can connect the ends of the tapes in various ways, using a hook or sewing needle for knitwear, joining with a seam over the edge or loop stitch using a hook.

Connection master class:

We analyze schemes for beginners

The braid, closing in a circle, a square, forms elements that form various patterns. We offer you some patterns of Brugge lace crocheted below:

Bruges technique allows you to make amazingly beautiful products - dresses, skirts, blouses, collars, napkins. We offer you a scheme of unusually feminine models from Japanese magazines.

Bruges technique was widely used in the manufacture of household items. Its similarity with lace, braided bobbins once became the reason for its widespread use in the manufacture of pillows, bedspreads, tablecloths and even items of clothing as decoration. And at all times, Bruges lace retained the right to personify prosperity, wealth and splendor.

Lace is a wonderful creation of human imagination, striking with its grace and airy delicacy. This type of decorative ornament has long been known in many countries of the world. So, in Europe, Italian, Dutch and Irish lace is traditionally valued, in the east, Palestinian lace is considered the most famous, and Russia is famous all over the world for its Vologda lace.

The history of Vologda lace dates back to the 17th century, it was then that the first products began to weave on the Vologda land. The development of lace-making in European countries gave impetus to the formation of lace-making in Russia as a craft. In the twenties of the nineteenth century, in the estates of the landowners, located near Vologda, lace-making centers were created, in which serf lace-makers weave openwork trimmings for the dresses of Moscow and St. Petersburg coquettes, imitating the European fashion to decorate clothes with lace.

After some time, lace-making was already carried away not only in the landowner's workshops, but also among the people, so, if at the end of the 19th century about 4 thousand craftswomen were engaged in weaving, then in the first decade of the 20th century there were already more than 40,000 of them. After the revolution of 1917, a vocational school teaching weaving was opened in Vologda, and a lace union was created with its own art laboratory.

Until 1940, mostly measured lace used to trim clothes came out from under the hands of craftswomen. In the future, the workshops began to produce a large number of piece products, such as napkins, gloves, tablecloths, lace scarves. In 1960, an association was created on the basis of lace workshops, producing measured products, napkins, bedspreads, curtains, as well as exclusive exhibition samples created according to artistic sketches.

Today Vologda masterpieces are known all over the world. Works of lace makers have repeatedly won the highest awards at prestigious European exhibitions, and in 2010 a museum was opened in Vologda itself, where you can get acquainted with unique products of openwork craft.

Patterns of Vologda lace

Initially, a large number of floral ornaments were traced in lace motifs. Craftswomen were inspired by wildlife, whose elements in a stylized form they transferred to their works. The patterns used in wood carving, which are so rich in the Russian North, as well as decorative elements used in weaving, served as an example for craftswomen.

Over time, the motifs of the ornament have changed somewhat. Geometric shapes, triangles, squares, circular patterns began to appear. After the revolution, the corresponding symbols of the era appear in the products. The following patterns are most often found in openwork motifs:

The works of the masters are distinguished by smooth lines, clear ornamentation and an abundance of plant motifs that repeat the curves of grass shoots, the contours of petals and foliage. A characteristic feature of Vologda lace is a wide border that forms a pattern, and a thin, almost weightless, mesh background.

All ornaments are mirrored and arranged symmetrically. This technique ensures the clarity and severity of lines, which give the openwork product that unique lightness and smoothness for which Vologda masterpieces are so highly valued all over the world.

Weaving Vologda lace

In recent decades, artistic interest in the Vologda openwork craft has been growing, and many people would like to try their hand at weaving Vologda lace. There are a lot of master classes for beginners on the Internet, but for those who want to do lace business in more depth, it would be most correct to turn to the master of bobbin lace weaving, who will explain all the nuances of this fascinating process in an accessible way.

There is an opinion that making lace with your own hands is a complex and costly process, but this is not entirely true. Creating patterns requires a lot of time, but in terms of complexity, lace weaving can be attributed to the average level. In order to learn how to weave openwork motifs, it is necessary to prepare special tools and devices, namely:

Creating an openwork masterpiece is, first of all, painstaking work, and it begins with winding threads on bobbins. This is a slow process and requires patience and perseverance. When weaving a product, there are two bobbins in each hand of the craftswoman. All work is done by moving these tools in the hands.

Since the process of weaving lace products is quite long, a number of craftswomen create an imitation of Vologda openwork using a crochet hook. Such a product looks elegant, but is much less valued than real lace, the elegance of which is sung in songs.

In addition, these unique products attract many tourists to the Vologda land who come here to get acquainted with the history of the Russian North and plunge into the atmosphere of creating local masterpieces.

Beautiful lace pattern on the spring - summer theme with a pattern of flowers-semicircles, found in the old issues of the magazine "Duplet". Pattern done crochet continuous knitting of braid, which is the main element of knitting Bruges lace, and the petals form columns with crochets. Any model of a blouse, top, skirt or dress associated with this pattern will certainly look beautiful and solemn. See below for detailed knitting master class and a description of the execution of this pattern.

The initial first row of the pattern performs braid, to knit it, dial 4 air loops + 3 lift loops, then knit * 4 st. s / n, 5 air. lifting loops, 4 tbsp. s / n, 3 air. lifting loops *, repeat from * to *, given that one repeat of the pattern is 10 rows of braid, on one side of the braid there should be arches of 5 lifting loops, on the other of 3.

Pattern knitting pattern

To start knitting the 2nd row, cast on 6 lifting air loops from the side of the braid with arches of 5 air loops and from the first arch, start knitting braid * 4 sts / n, 5 air. loops, repeat again from *, 4 sts s / n, 1 air. a loop.

Next, the first petal A: make 4 yarns on the hook, insert the hook under the arch in the diagram marked with the letter O, knit all the yarns, then make 4 yarns again, knitting all the yarns again, grab the working thread and knit all the loops on the hook, thereby making two columns with 4 crochets knitted with one top.

Then 2 air. loops, 4 sts s / n, 2 air loops and knit a column-arch with 8 crochets, introducing a hook for the first arch of 6 loops.

After the last petal, knitting the second group of double crochets, fasten each column with a connecting loop into an arch, then 3 air loops and a connecting loop into the next arch.

Start knitting the second semicircle of the braid by typing 3 lifting air loops, knit the second semicircle, like the first, making a fastening column on the outside of the semicircle on the first arch for the arch of the first semicircle, and in the second arch, knit a column of 7 crochets, which will be the center of the semicircle in the next row. Having finished the semicircle, also fasten it to the braid of the first row and continue to knit ovals to the end of the row.

To start knitting the third row, knit 3 air. loops, make a connecting column in the arch of the last semicircle, 6 air loops, a column with 3 crochets from the next arch of the last semicircle, 14 air loops.

Then knit the initial row of braid from 4 tbsp. b / n on the last air loops and start knitting the petals from the columns with 4 crochets by inserting the hook behind the arch from the column with three crochets.

Having knitted three petals, fasten the braid with connecting posts at the top of the semicircle as in the previous row, make 3 air. loops, connecting column into the next arch and start knitting a semicircle with 5 petals, the center of which will be a column of 7 yarns of the previous row.

Do not forget to make a fastening column when knitting the first outer arch of the braid, connecting it with the previous semicircle and in the next arch a column of 7 yarns.

The 3rd row ends simply - after knitting the 3rd petal into an arch from a column with 8 crochets, 4 sts s / n the last row of braid and then the next row begins as the 2nd with 6 lifting air loops. When knitting subsequent rows of the pattern, the second and third rows are repeated.

An ancient type of folk art - weaving on bobbins. In Russia, this needlework was not immediately called lace. Initially, this word was applied to any decoration that was used to decorate the product around the edge. Weaving products on bobbin was brought to Russia from Europe in the seventeenth century. Then the word "lace" was assigned to products woven on bobbins.

Types of lace products

Lace can be either measured or piece.

The first of them are measured in meters. They are narrow (1-3 cm), medium (up to 6 cm), wide (more than 6 cm). In addition, dimensional lace is distinguished by its shape:

The seam has a narrow edge on both sides.
Agramant toothed on both margins.
The edge is serrated on one side and smooth on the other.

Piece lace is a complete, whole product: tablecloth, curtain, cape, jacket, vest, boa, cuffs, napkin, etc.

Technical equipment

Bobbin weaving begins with the preparation of tools and fixtures. There are not so many of them:

roller. You can do it yourself. To do this, take a piece of dense fabric. The size of the piece will determine whether the roller will be large or small. For beginners, the most convenient sizes are 40 X 60 or 60 X 80 cm. On the long sides, it has a 2 cm wide hemming. The short sides are sewn together, and a cylinder is obtained. A cord is threaded into the lining on one side and tightened. Next, the roller is stuffed with filler. It can be foam rubber, hay, sawdust. Then it should be covered with a cardboard circle and tighten the second filing. The roller is ready.
Stand. It is needed to give stability to the roller. It can be made from a rectangular piece of foam rubber. Two opposite sides should be twisted and secured so that a hollow forms in the middle, into which the roller can be laid.
Bobbins for weaving lace - these are wooden sticks that have a “neck” for winding threads.
Pins. Needed to secure the interlaced threads. There must be many of them, at least a hundred.
Knitting hook. Used to bind threads.
A chip is a drawing in which dots show the places where the pins are stuck.

threads. They can be of different thicknesses. It is best to use linen or silk, they give minimal shrinkage after washing the product. During the training period, cotton can also be used.

Winding threads on bobbins

Patience is what bobbins require. For beginners, the very first action is winding threads. It will become the training of this quality of character.

Bobbins are used in lace making only in pairs, one thread is wound on two bobbins. This is done like this:

You need to take one of the bobbins with your right hand, and the thread with your left. With your finger, you need to press the end of the thread to the neck of the bobbin, and with your left hand make several turns around it to secure the thread.
When it is fixed, rotate the bobbin, winding the thread around the neck. It is necessary to hold it with the left hand, adjusting the uniformity of distribution along the entire length of the bobbin neck.
After 2-3 meters are wound, it is fixed with a loop. The bobbin should then hang on a thread and not unwind.
Then, without tearing off, they unwind another 2-3 m from the skein and only then cut it off. The free end is wound on the second bobbin and also secured with a loop. At the same time, 20 cm of thread should remain between the bobbins.

Changing the thread during weaving

If the thread ends when weaving, then you need to do the following:

Unwind it, freeing the bobbin, and leave the end 20 cm long.
Screw a new one into the free space.
Fasten the end with a knot on a pin, which is inserted 5 cm above the place of weaving.
Connect the left end of the old thread to the new one. Wind the double thread around the bobbin and secure with a loop.
Weave continue with a double thread.
After the new thread is sufficiently fixed, the old one can be cut and weaved further than one.

Bobbin weaving: learning the basics

When weaving, there is a pair of bobbin in both hands. All weaves are made in two ways by moving the tool in the hands:

To interchange means to swap them in one hand. This is done with the thumb so that the right bobbin is thrown over the left.
To weave means to shift one bobbin from hand to hand. In this case, the right bobbin from the left hand should be thrown over the left bobbin in the right hand.

Weaving on bobbins is of three types:

Weave in half a braid: intertwine - weave.
Weave in a full braid: twist - weave - twist.
Weave with linen: weave - twist - weave.

Lace elements

There are 4 main elements of lacework: braid, flax without interlacing pairs, flax with interlacing of all pairs and flax with interlacing of extreme pairs.

The braid is performed in half a braid (twist - weave), after each reception, the threads are pulled, for which the bobbins are bred to the sides.

Polotnyanka is woven without interlacing pairs on several pairs of bobbins. Here you will need a chip. For weaving products in several pairs, it is necessary. Its width is 12 mm, the distance between the points is 6 mm. You need to take at least 7 pairs of bobbins.

Above the chip, 6 pins are installed, a pair of bobbins is hung on each. All of them are called shared, during weaving they do not change their direction.
To the left of the first pair, a running pair is hung. It moves from left to right and right to left.
Weaving starts from the left side. The running pair is taken in the left hand, and the first shared pair is taken in the right hand. Pairs are woven with linen (weave - intertwine - weave).
The running pair is intertwined with each share in turn.
A pin is placed in the interweaving of the last share and running (between them). They braid it like this: twist the running one once, do not twist the lobar, but weave with linen (weave - twist - weave).
After that, the running pair is transferred to the right hand, and weaving continues to the left side.

The flax with interlacing of all pairs is made according to the same chip as the flax without interlacing of pairs:

In the process of work, the running pair is woven into a full braid (twist - weave - twist - weave).
A pin is placed under the weave of the running pair from the last share. It is braided into a twist: twist the running pair twice, twist the shared pair once and weave - twist - weave.

Polotnyanka with interlacing of extreme pairs is also woven along the same cleavage:

This weaving on bobbins begins, as well as the weaving of linen with interlacing of all pairs.
The second and subsequent ones (up to the penultimate one) are woven like linen without interlacing pairs.
The penultimate share is woven into a full braid (twist - weave - twist - weave).
The latter is braided into a twist, as for a linen with a twist of all pairs.

Scan

For filigree, a thicker thread is used than for basic weaving. To do this, you can fold the existing one in half. A pin is stuck in the middle between the pins for hanging bobbins with filigree.

Weaving to the bobbin with filigree is done in the usual way:

A “rope” scan will be obtained if the running gear is passed between the threads of the scan in such a way that the right one is above the running one and the left one is under it. When the running thread returns from the other side, the filigree is interlaced and the running thread is passed: the right thread is on top, the left one is under the running thread.

Scan "pigtail" will turn out if you take not one, but two pairs of bobbins. In this case, the running thread is passed between two pairs of filigree, when the running thread returns, the filigree is interlaced not in one direction, but in different ones.

Clutch lace technique

Coupling lace weaving on bobbin for beginner craftswomen is the implementation of a vilyushka. This is the name of the main element of the named lace. It is woven with linen, often decorated with filigree. And the docking points here are connected by hooks, which are made with a crochet hook.

Returning, the former extreme share weaves the former running and, in turn, is left alone, and the old running goes to bind the share.

Alternately, the extreme share becomes running until the turn ends. The pins do not stick in the place of the turn.

The coupling is carried out at the place of the docking of the vilyushka after the turn. To do this, remove the pin, insert the crochet hook into the loop from above, hook the thread and pull it out.

A bobbin is threaded into the resulting large loop, the thread is tightened. Weaving continues with the running pair that participated in the hitch.

Next, you need to weave along the slip.

We hope that the step-by-step instructions proposed in the article will help beginner lacemakers to make their first elegant products.

How many years have passed, and my memory brings me back to that memorable day. Early summer morning. The sun stealthily sneaks through the tulle curtain, touches warm fingers to my left ear. I stretch sweetly on the bed, I don’t want to sleep. From the next room comes the crystal ringing of bobbins. Without slippers, I tiptoe to the door and freeze, peeping between the curtains as my grandmother weaves lace.

"And why are you standing like that?" Grandma turns to me and says. “You think you can’t see your bare feet from under the curtain?” March to get dressed! Now I'll put it on the table.

Grandmother carefully pushes the needlework away and, quietly shuffling her feet, wanders to the stove. The cottage cheese casserole has browned. Grandmother puts a baking sheet on the table and goes out into the hallway to bring sour cream from the pantry. At this time, I return to the bed, quickly get into a cotton dress, pull on short socks, put my feet in slippers and run to the washbasin.

The pot-bellied samovar on the table is still making noise. They recently had breakfast with their grandfather. Grandmother takes a cup and saucer, pours me tea, says:

Everything is on the table. You eat, but I have no time. Kapitolina needs to hand over the finished lace to Snezhinka tomorrow.

- Grandma, why does Aunt Capa have to take it, but you weave? I wonder.

Yes, we need to help each other. She just can’t manage to throw out the norm.

- And how much is the norm?

- The bigger, the better. But at least two dozen. Look, on the stand, which we call the hoop, there is a pillow called a kutuz. It is stuffed with head, that is, heads of flax. A chip is fixed around the kutuz with the help of pins - this is cardboard with a future pattern.

Grandmother of Nina Gavrikova - Tochina Alexandra Vasilievna

My mother used to have chips drawn on birch bark. I remember how dad went to the forest in early spring. I removed large sheets of bark from birch trees. Brought home. He straightened the bark under pressure. Mom drew the right picture. I took an old chip, pierced holes with a needle and connected them into a drawing with a pencil.

You see, the threads wound on sticks - bobbins, are intertwined with each other, forming a lace pattern on the splinter. Now let's measure, how many meters did I spit out?

- And I don’t understand why around the kutuz?

— Because measured lace is woven continuously. The pattern at the junction of the chip must match. Kutuz has the shape of a cylinder - or a short stump of a thick log. We turn it around its axis and weave further. Usually dozens are woven, that is, the length of the strip should be exactly ten meters.

Grandmother gives me a wooden stick, which she calls a meter. We first unraveled a narrow lace strip from the hank. They took the tip, attached it to the meter, began to wind a strip of lace per meter:

- One. Two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine ... From the tenth turn, a strip of lace stretched to the kutuz.

- You see, less than a meter is left to finish.

“Come on, you will teach me to weave, and I will help you and Aunt Capa,” I say.

- No, you have to go to Claudia, my sister, to study. You see - I now weave only measured lace. Those are long lines. Claudia weaves everything.

What does "everything" mean? - I do not let up.

- She weaves coupling lace: napkins, scarves, ties, tablecloths, vests, scarves. Measured lace is measured in meters, and coupling lace is measured in pieces. Coupling lace is always woven with a crochet hook; a hook is not needed for measured lace.

As a child, I tried it, it seemed to work well. I remember once an inspector came from the artel. I gave up my hitch lace. He already twisted it like that, and that way. Then he looks at me with round eyes and says: “Here is a fawn hat for your diligence and excellent quality.” Oh, and they cost a lot then, these hats. And I have a special interest in lace. I even stopped going to school because of it.

When she married Olixia, then one after another seven children appeared in the hut, once they began to do needlework. Now I help my daughter-in-law a little, and that's okay.

"Will you talk to your sister about me?"

- No, let's first ask mom for permission, and then I'll go to Claudia.

That day, a happy wind carried me home. From us to my grandmother, one and a half kilometers to go through the forest. I walked along the wooden walkways, quickly rearranging my tiny legs.

But the conversation with my mother did not work out. My mother had her own outlook on life. Without listening to me, she objected:

Why do you need this lacework? Are you, like me, going to be doing hard work all your life? No. Now study well, and when you grow up, then go to the city to live. There you will go to theaters, exhibition halls, museums. Get married and live like a man. Not like me - all my life I have been with cattle and in manure. I wash, clean, cook, wash dishes, knit, embroider, I have no time to read newspapers and books, let alone go to the city to the theater.

I can't remember how old I was then. But no more than seven. I didn't go to school then. In our family, an unspoken rule was established - you can’t argue with your mother. With glassy eyes from tears, I ran out into the street. Where I wandered until evening, I do not remember. But I remember how painful it was somewhere deep in my chest. It was as if a flame of hope was smoldering there, and someone's barbaric leg trampled on this ember with a crunch.

In all my life, while my mother was alive, I never raised this issue again. But recently a wave of nostalgia swept over me - our Vologda laces were shown on TV. And again, as in childhood, the coal in my chest stirred.

Mom is gone now. Nobody can forbid. But! Where can I get kutuz, chips, bobbins, needles? Before, I could ask my grandmother, but now? By the will of fate, I have been sitting in a wheelchair since I was thirty-seven. I can’t even imagine how you can weave lace while sitting in a stroller? But the coal inside was already blazing with a huge conflagration.

I asked a friend with whom we have been friends since childhood and who still travels to our small homeland to ask someone for equipment for lace making. Luck did not smile immediately. Our mutual friend, Aunt Katya Uglova, having learned that I want to learn how to weave lace, said:

- And what? For Ninushka, I don’t feel sorry for giving everything away. Let it weave with God.

When I had all the equipment, a friend asked:

— Well, now you have everything to weave lace. But who will teach you how to lace?

“I don’t know,” I replied in confusion.

I was told that there are courses in the House of Folk Art, where women are sent from the employment service. But the courses are not available to me. I live on the fifth floor. My husband and sons simply will not physically be able to take me down and lift me back so many times so that I attend classes.

But the paths of fate, like in a labyrinth, are tempting and unpredictable. And every day they bring me something new. One evening, the husband comes home from work satisfied and says:

- Today we went to the village of Arkhangelsk. Believe it or not, I found someone who will teach you how to weave lace.

The next day, Angelina Ivanovna Pronicheva arrived. She taught me how to weave lace.

Participation in two International lace festivals “Vita Lace” remains the most significant for me. In 2011, in Vologda, I gave the then first lady, Svetlana Medvedeva, a lace scarf, which, sitting in a wheelchair, I wove myself on long, winter evenings. And in 2014, I brought from the second festival a diploma of the winner in the My Lace Outfit contest.

I must say that I weave lace slowly. Because the lace-makers hold the stand with the kutuz with their feet and turn it over depending on the curve of the pattern. My legs do not work, so I have to pick up the kutuz and turn it around. My hands are on weight during weaving, so my back gets tired quickly. You have to rest often. But what pleasure I get from the crystal ringing of bobbins! Indescribable pride bursts me from the mere thought that my childhood dream has finally come true - I can weave our Vologda lace!

Personal experience

Nina Pavlovna Gavrikova

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