Line embroideries. Dress White hemstitch. The work of Elena Shlyakova Stitches for free embroidery

We make the dress from a rare white fabric, we cut the yoke along an oblique thread. First, on a piece of fabric intended for a coquette, we pull out the threads. Stepping back 7 cm from the edge, pull out 1 thread of fabric, tie a blue skein to the second thread and carefully pull it into the fabric. Through 2 threads of fabric, we repeat the same operation and pull through a gray floss. This operation is repeated every 4 cm to the middle of the coquette. In the same sequence, we draw colored threads on the second side of the yoke and proceed to the implementation of the cloves. To do this, we draw 10 threads 3 cm from the edge (the width of the threaded track is 10 mm). We sew the lower edge of the hemstitch with a “tassel” hemstitch with a thin white bobbin thread, taking 6 threads of fabric into a column.

Rice. 113. Dress for a girl, decorated with threaded colored threads and cloves

We sew the upper edge of the hemstitch with a gray floss with a decorative seam (see Fig. 100). Let's start on the right. 3 threads above the edge of the hemstitch, we bring the needle with the working thread to the front side at point 1; grabbing the edge of the hemstitch, we stick the needle inside out at point 2. On the front side, stitch 1-2 is obtained. On the wrong side, we insert the needle through 5 threads of fabric above point 1 to point 3, we go out again to the front side.

By moving from left to right, we pick up the hemstitch column and stick the needle into point 6, which is 6 threads of fabric away from point 3 and lies along the same horizontal thread. We stretch the working thread to the wrong side, tighten the third, fourth, fifth and sixth columns of hemstitch with a cross. After counting 5 threads of fabric on the wrong side, we bring the needle to the front side at point 7 to complete the next stitch.

Having processed the outer edges of the coquette, through 2 threads above the hemstitch we stretch a skein of blue floss, and through 2 threads from it - gray. We bend the hemstitch in half so that the columns are displaced (the lower half of each column should be aligned with the upper half of the adjacent column). We sweep both halves of the hemstitch to secure it in this position.

We baste the yoke to the bodice and attach it on the machine exactly along the threads of the fabric after 7 mm from the upper gray thread. With a “forward needle” seam, we mask the machine stitch. We carry out stitches with a length of 4 threads of fabric with a skein of blue floss from the center of the yoke to the sides.

Dress for a little girl (Fig. 125)

The front is cut along an oblique thread. Colored threads and “tassel” hemstitches 0.5-0.7 cm wide are made in strips alternating every 3 cm along the longitudinal and transverse lines of the fabric.

Rice. 125. Children's dress trimmed with threaded colored threads and hemstitches

The edge of the round yoke is accentuated with stitching done with a needle-forward stitch with threads of the same color that are threaded into the fabric.

Dress on a yoke (Fig. 114)

The dress is made of yellow linen fabric. On the yoke we draw brown and red threads every 4 cm in this sequence.

We pull out 2 adjacent threads from the fabric, tie a skein of brown floss to the third and draw it into the fabric. Through 4 threads of fabric, we again pull out 2 threads, with the help of the third we stretch a skein of red floss. Again, we skip 4 threads, pull out 2, and with the third we draw in a skein of brown floss. After 4 cm from the last retracted brown thread, we again draw the same group of threads. So we decorate the yoke with horizontal stripes.

Rice. 114. Dress on a yoke, decorated with threaded threads and tassels

We work vertically in a slightly different way. We outline the line of the edge of the coquette, on the right along this line we cut 2 adjacent threads of the fabric and pull them out. After cutting the third one and pulling it up a little, we tie a skein of brown floss to it and thread it into the fabric, leaving a free end 6 cm long from below. After 4 threads to the left of the first laid thread, we again cut 2 adjacent fabric threads and pull them out. With the help of the third trimmed thread, we draw a skein of red floss, leaving a free end also 6 cm long. After another 4 threads to the left, we similarly pull the second skein of brown floss. We perform such groups of delays every 4 cm.

Having bent the resulting tassels inward, we fold the front side of the yoke with the bodice along the line of the edge of the yoke, sweep and sew on the machine so that the sewing line lies 1-2 threads further than the beginning of holding the colored threads. Having stretched out the basting, lay out the details on the front side, straighten the brushes. On the machine, we lay a line on the front side along the colored threads along the very edge of the hold to secure the brushes. And only after that we level all the brushes with scissors to the desired length.

Dress decorated with star hemstitch (Fig. 119)

The same hemstitches are used on the bodice of the dress and sleeves. The sleeves are cut on an oblique thread, due to which the pattern looks different.

Rice. 119. Dress decorated with star, punk and tassel hemstitches

Rice. 120. Embroidery scheme

We carry out from light gray linen fabric. We embroider stars with pink floss in 4 threads, punk and tassel - with light brown floss in 2 threads.

4 cm below the neckline with a cut, we outline a square ABSD with a side of 8 cm (Fig. 120). We divide side AB into three equal parts at points E and P. We pull out one thread from points E and P to the DS line. We do the same on the AD side.

To the right and to the left of the inner lines, we stretch so many threads to make tracks 0.4 cm wide. From point A, we additionally stretch the leftmost thread of the square upwards by 2 cm; in the same way, we lengthen the upper thread of the square to the left from point A. From the points obtained, by cutting one thread at a time, we build a square 1. We perform similar operations at the remaining corners of the square and get small squares 1, 2, 3, 4.

After that, down from the line AB, grabbing the threads lying directly under the lower sides of the small squares 1 and 2, we pull out so many threads to get a threaded strip of fabric 0.4 cm wide. We make the same paths on the other three sides of the large square. 13 small squares are formed, separated by threaded strips of fabric 0.4 cm wide.

We embroider squares 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 with an asterisk hemstitch. On the 6th square we embroider a punk, taking the threads into the first lower row that form the lower left side column of the asterisk hemstitch of the 5th square. We embroider the second row of punks on the threads of the fabric, collected in a column of an asterisk, lying above the first; the third row is the threads of the third column, and so on until the entire 6th square is processed. If the fabric is very dense, to get a beautiful and even stitching, the topmost thread of each asterisk column must be pulled out, but only within the 6th square.

After completing the subline in the 6th square, we embroider an asterisk in the 7th and 9th squares. Then we proceed to perform the subline in the 8th square. Here the rows of punks form the columns of the right side of the 9th square, and the columns of the first and all subsequent rows are the same as the columns of the upper horizontal side of the 5th square. Similarly, the rows of the subline of the 10th square correspond to the horizontal columns of the 9th square, and the columns of the subline coincide with the columns of the 7th square (its upper side). The 11th, 12th and 13th squares are performed sequentially one after the other. The remaining raw edges of the threaded hemstitches are sheathed with a brush and a satin roller.

We perform hemstitching on the sleeves in the same way, but with an additional brush we combine the 1st square with the 2nd and 4th, the 2nd with the 3rd, the 3rd with the 4th (see the dotted line in Fig. 120) .

Having processed the neckline and the edges of the sleeves in the usual way, we sew one row of cloves with brown threads along the hem with a buttonhole seam. The size of one brid is 7 mm. In the middle of the brida we make an air loop.

The same hemstitch can be trimmed with a sundress (Fig. 121).

We perform hemstitching on pockets according to the description. On the top of the bodice and the bottom of the hem, we embroider a track with an asterisk hemstitch. The size of each square is 2x2 cm, the distance between the squares is 2 cm. 0.5 cm above and below the squares, we make strips with a “set” seam. In this case, we embroider an asterisk on a non-threaded fabric.

Rice. 121. Sundress embroidered with hemstitch "asterisk"

Dress (Fig. 122)

An asterisk hemstitch decorated half of the front of the bodice and the hem.

Rice. 122. Dress decorated with star hemstitch

We pull out 1-2 threads of fabric every 4 cm along the entire length of one half of the front of the bodice. We also pull out the transverse threads after 4 cm, but be sure to start from the central thread of the front. Here we cut the necessary threads and pull them out, making sure that there are no puffs of threads on the other half of the bodice. On the finished grid in a checkerboard pattern, we perform the “star” hemstitch.

On the bottom of the skirt we embroider a strip of the same hemstitch squares. Its width is 4-12 cm, that is, 1-3 rows. We arrange the squares on the strip also in a checkerboard pattern. In the center of the empty squares, you can embroider roses using the rococo technique.

If it is made of woolen fabric, the Mode Elegance atelier recommends using silk threads in the color of the fabric for hemstitching.

Dress decorated with shabak hemstitch (Fig. 133)

Rice. 133. Dress trimmed with shabak hemstitch

In this model, the armhole line and hem are decorated with hemstitch.

We make a hemstitch for the bodice on a separate strip of fabric 7.5 cm wide. In the middle of the strip we draw a track 3.5 cm wide and embroider 7 rows of shabak hemstitch on it, using half of the pattern used to finish the previous model (see Fig. 132 ). We tack the embroidered strip to the bodice and sleeves. On the finished dress along the hemstitch with a brown thread, we embroider single crosses 3x3 mm. Each cross is 1 cm apart from the other, and 0.5 cm from the hemstitch.

On the skirt, we perform hemstitching with a width of 6.5 cm (13 rows) on solid fabric, taking into account the hem. At 0.7 cm above the hemstitch, we embroider single crosses with an interval of 1.2-1.5 cm.

Dress decorated with hems and embroidered stalked seam (Fig. 136)

The width of the finishing strip of the hemstitch is 9 cm. We embroider a floss in 4 threads.

Along the left half of the bodice we draw a path 0.5 cm wide, after 2.5 cm - a path 0.3 cm wide, after 0.3 cm another path 0.3 cm wide. Then, leaving 0.7 cm of solid fabric, we pull out a strip 0.3 cm, after 0.3 cm we again draw 0.3 cm and after 2.5 cm the last strip 0.5 cm wide.

We fill the fabric in the hoop, fasten the working thread on three threads of fabric in the middle of the first hemstitch, forming a column, pulled together in the middle. Then we wrap the next columns, capturing 6 threads each time and piercing the needle back through 3 threads back. The working thread lies on the hemstitch freely without knots. It turns out oblique stitches that overlap each other (stem stitch along the hem). We do not sheathe the outer edges of the hemstitch. On both sides of the hemstitch at a distance of 3 threads, we embroider a strip with a set. We pick up 3 threads on the needle, we also skip 3 threads under the needle (Fig. 137).

Rice. 136. Dress trimmed with hems and embroidered stem stitch

Rice. 137. Stem seam along the hemstitch

On narrow strips (0.3 cm wide) we embroider a “punk” hemstitch, taking 4 threads of fabric into a column. Between two punks we embroider crosses 4x4 threads. We perform the second wide hemstitch (0.5 cm) with a stalk seam, like the first one.

On the right half of the bodice we embroider a branch with a stalk seam.

Dress embroidered with simple hems (Fig. 139)

We process the neckline, sleeves and bottom of the dress with scalloped stitches with an orange thread. We put the stitches of the buttonhole seam very tightly to each other. The width of each festoon is 4 mm, the length is 40 mm.

Rice. 139. Dress embroidered with simple hems

On the bodice 13 mm from the line of scallops, framing the slit, we embroider a “column into a split” hemstitch 5 mm wide with a brown floss. After 10 mm from it, we embroider a “flashlight” hemstitch with a width of 22 mm.

For a “flashlight” hemstitch, we pull out the threads in the following sequence: pull out 2 mm, leave 4 mm, pull out 10 mm, leave 4 mm, pull out 2 mm. On solid strips of fabric, we embroider a “punk” hemstitch with an orange thread. We do not process the outer edges of the hemstitch, therefore, in the extreme narrow tracks 2 mm wide, after performing the punk, we get the “tassel” hemstitch. All hems are embroidered with floss in 2 threads. We make a flashlight with a brown floss in 6 threads. After 10 mm from the “flashlight” hemstitch, we embroider the “column into a split” hemstitch with a width of 8 mm with brown floss. This hemstitch is 10 mm shorter than the previous one.

The skirt consists of three flounces. When cutting, we cut off the lower edge of the shuttlecocks along a straight thread, and make the upper one slightly concave.

On the upper shuttlecock, 3 cm from the connecting seam, we perform one strip of hemstitch "column into a split" 8 mm wide with brown threads. On the middle shuttlecock, stepping back 3 cm from the lower connecting seam, we perform a “flashlight” hemstitch and 13 mm higher - “a split column”. On the lower flounce and sleeves, we place the hemstitches in the same way. 20 mm above the scallops, we embroider a “column into a split” hemstitch 8 mm wide with brown floss. After 13 mm from it, we perform a “flashlight” hemstitch with a width of 22 mm, and we embroider the punk with orange thread, and the flashlight with brown. 13 mm higher from the flashlight, we perform the last hemstitch - “column into a split” 8 mm wide with brown floss.

We finish the neckline with a narrow stand, into which we pull a cord woven from brown threads. At the ends of the lace we make tassels.

The belt is also made of brown threads.

Dress trimmed with connecting hemstitches (Fig. 143)

This dress can be made from linen fabric in three colors, such as white, gray and blue. When cutting, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the joints lie along the longitudinal thread of the fabric.

Rice. 143. Dress trimmed with connecting hemstitches

We connect the sleeves with the bodice as follows: on the wrong side of the part, we sew it on the machine or manually with stitches “over the edge”, capturing several threads of the fabric of each part. Stepping back 4 mm, on both sides of the seam we draw tracks 3-4 mm wide for hemstitches. We mask the connecting seam with a figure-eight or velvet seam, while separating the threads of the threaded fabric into hemstitch columns. If the sleeves are blue and the bodice is white, we sew the camouflage seam with gray threads. We sew the upper and lower edges of the hemstitches with a skein of floss or one thread of iris with a “tassel” hemstitch, making not oblique stitches, but vertical ones with a height of 5 mm. On a white fabric, we make a brush with blue threads, and on a blue fabric - with white threads.

We also sew the upper (white) and middle (gray) parts of the skirt over the edge. Having stepped back 0.5 cm on both sides of the seam, we pull out tracks 0.4 cm wide, after 0.5 cm - one more track 0.4 cm wide. We sew the outer sides of the hemstitches with a buttonhole stitch with threads of contrasting colors: on white - gray, on gray - white. We mask the connecting seam with a figure-eight seam with thick blue threads. On top of the “figure eight” seam, with even thicker white threads, with a “half-cross” seam, we make a zigzag line, the stitches of which are three times smaller than the stitches of the velvet seam.

Then we sew the middle and lower (blue) part of the skirt. At a distance of 0.5 cm from the seam on both sides, we draw the tracks in the following sequence: pull out 0.4 cm, leave 0.5 cm, pull out 0.4 cm, leave 1 cm, pull out 0.5 cm. Six drawn paths are formed: three on gray fabric and three on blue. We mask the connecting seam with a figure-eight seam with gray threads.

On it with white threads we embroider a zigzag line. On the first strips from the seam (0.5 cm wide) we embroider punk with thin threads in the color of the fabric. On strips 1 cm wide, we make a velvet seam with thick threads: on gray fabric - blue, on blue fabric - gray. When making a seam, we combine the threads of the last threaded track into columns of hemstitch. We sew the outer edges of the last hemstitches with white threads with a buttonhole seam, capturing the columns formed when making a velvet seam. The size of the vertical stitch is 5 mm.

We process the bottom of the sleeve and the neck with cloves. We embroider a “simple column” hemstitch, we carry out sheaves without a central thread on it. We bend the hemstitch in the center of the sheaves and hem.

From gray and blue threads, you can weave a cord with tassels at the ends.

Summer dress trimmed with cross stitching and hemstitches (Fig. 156)

This dress can be sewn from linen fabric. For embroidery, take the threads to match the fabric.

In the center of the bodice, we make a grid square with a side of 6.5 cm. We pull out the threads from the fabric in the following sequence: remove 0.5 cm, leave 1 cm, remove 0.5 cm, leave 1 cm, remove 0.5 cm, leave 1 cm, 0.5 cm is removed, 1 cm is left, 0.5 cm is removed. On the stretched strips, we make a grid.

Rice. 156. Dress trimmed with cross stitching and hemstitching

Above the square at a distance of 1.8 cm in the center we embroider a “bug” hemstitch 0.8 cm wide, 7 cm long. We make a spider on every second bug. On both sides of the “bug” hemstitch, at a distance of 1.6 cm, we perform “column-to-split” hemstitches 0.5 cm wide. After 1 cm from the “column-to-split” hemstitches, we perform grid rectangles 5x6.5 cm. On the short side, we draw 4 tracks , long - 5 tracks. 1 cm above the grid rectangles, we symmetrically embroider two strips of hemstitch “column into a split” 0.5 cm wide.

On the bottom of the dress, we perform grid rectangles in turn and in two rows a “column into a split” hemstitch. We draw 8 strips along the wide side of the grid, 3 strips along the narrow side.

We finish the short set-in sleeve with cloves made with a “bug” hemstitch without a central thread. 2 cm above the teeth, we embroider the same mesh as on the bottom of the dress, and above it we embroider the “bug” and “column into a split” hemstitch.

Linen dress (Fig. 158)

At a distance of 15 cm from the shoulder seam, we draw a triangular mesh 115x65 mm (vertical threaded tracks - 12, horizontal - 7). The width of the drawn paths is 0.5 cm. The dimensions of the lowest step of the grid are given in fig. 158b.

Rice. 158. A dress decorated with a sacral mesh and hemstitch: a - general view; b - scheme of the lower grid step

On both sides of the cutout, at a distance of 1 cm from the grid, we perform a “buckwheat” hemstitch 1 cm wide (the height of the columns is 0.7 cm), at some distance from it - a shorter “single buckwheat” hemstitch 0.8 cm wide (the column height is 0 .5 cm).

On the hem, we place the embroidery in a horizontal direction. In the center of the grid we carry out a strip of hemstitch 1 cm wide, lateral - 0.8 cm.

We trim the neckline and the edges of one-piece short sleeves with cloves. Cut off a transverse strip of fabric 3.5 cm wide; at a distance of 1.2 cm from the edge, we remove the threads in the following sequence: pull out 2 mm, leave 1 mm, pull out 6 mm, leave 1 mm, pull out 2 mm. We carry out a “single buckwheat” hemstitch with threads to match the fabric. We fasten the strip with the hemstitch with the front side to the dress along the neckline and sew on the machine at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.

We bend the strip along the sewing line, fold the hemstitch in half so that both halves of the buckwheat columns are aligned and holes form above them, bend the second edge of the strip inward by 5 mm, tack it to the product and attach it on the machine. Then, with an oblique stitch, we mask the machine stitch with dense stitches and fasten the cloves. Similarly, we perform cloves on the sleeves.

Dress decorated with Vologda stitching according to the letter (Fig. 161)

For the dress, we take a fabric with a plain weave. We cut the bodice along the shared thread. We perform embroidery on an insert 21 cm wide (ready-made). Dimensions of the embroidered elements: top width - 20 cm, bottom width - 8 cm, height - 10 cm.

Rice. 161. Dress decorated with Vologda stitching according to the letter

First we embroider a flower (see Fig. 50).

Rice. 50. Vologda line by letter

With a burgundy floss in a whole skein, we crochet a chain stitch. The stitch size of the chain stitch is 2-3 mm. We start by embroidering the inner parts of the flower. Having sheathed all the petals with a chain stitch, we make an overhead grid in the center. We put the threads for the grid at an acute angle to each other. We attach them to the fabric with one horizontal stitch 3 mm long.

Then we perform checkered satin in four side petals. Each checker has 4 stitches 5 mm long. We fill the upper petal of the flower with a fine mesh, placing the threads strictly perpendicular to each other. We attach their intersections to the fabric with inclined stitches 2 mm long. We pierce three holes and sheathe them with a satin roller. Inside the flower we embroider a strip with double-sided stitch.

Having embroidered the flower, we carry out the side petals, decorating them along the field with a zigzag seam and a straight stitch. Lastly, we embroider the leaves and the stem. Inside the stem and small leaves, we make paths with an oblique stitch, we embroider large leaves with a velvet seam.

We sew the contours of the trapezoid with a looped seam with a twist or a dense satin roller. On the upper horizontal side, we cut the threads for the grid at the rate of: cut out 3 mm, set aside 2 mm on the column. We stretch them until they intersect with the outline of the flower or with the bottom and sides of the grid and cut them off.

We also cut and remove the threads on one of the sides. We wrap the finished mesh with threads to match the fabric.

In the same way, we perform the other two insert elements.

We connect the bodice and back on the shoulders with three straps 3 cm wide.

On fig. 162 another variant of the use of the Vologda line in writing is given. Instead of a trapezoid, you can make embroidery in the segment, make oval cutouts on the shoulders.

Rice. 162. Dress decorated with Vologda stitching according to the letter

Dress trimmed with colored entanglement (Fig. 166)

For this model, a blue-gray linen fabric is suitable, for embroidery - white, gray, blue and red floss. The ornament (Fig. 167) is performed on the bodice, on both sides of the cut, and on the sleeves. We frame the finished mesh with a “painted” seam and crosses with white threads. In the same way, we emphasize the line of the armhole.

Rice. 166. Dress trimmed with colored entanglement

Rice. 167. Scheme of an ornament for embroidery with colored interweaving

Before starting to embroider, we transfer the drawing completely to paper in a box with colored pencils or felt-tip pens - separately for the front of the bodice and sleeves. We calculate the length of embroidery on the sleeve according to the width of the sleeve. We draw halves of the front ornament with an interval of one cell. This is where the cutting line will be.

Now let's start embroidering on the front of the bodice. First, we outline the rectangle of the future grid and process it with a white floss with a satin roller. Then we draw the grid (the size of the cell is 3x3 mm) and wrap the columns according to the pattern. We wrap the background of the grid with gray threads. We frame the contour of the entwined mesh with a “painted” seam and crosses with white floss. The neckline and columns of the grid, along which a cut will be made along the front of the bodice, are tightly sheathed with a looped seam of a white floss.

Having completed the ornament on the sleeves, we sew the details of the dress. After that, we process the neck of the dress to the end, continuing the “painting” seam along the back, decorate the armholes with the same seam and make a neat cut in the center of the bodice along the buttonhole seam.

Elegant dress, decorated with colored entanglement (Fig. 168)

This dress, made of very thin light fabric, will suit slender women. For a belt and an embroidered insert on the shoulders, we take a denser fabric with a plain weave of threads. Belt width - 10 cm, inserts - 6 cm.

Rice. 168. Elegant dress, decorated with colored entanglement

For embroidery, you can use any cross-stitch pattern, reworking it for the color interlace technique.

In the figure for the cross, we circle the borders of the cells filled with ornament with colored felt-tip pens. The vertical sides of the ornament cell correspond to the vertical columns of the embroidery, and the horizontal sides correspond to the horizontal columns. On the border of two colors, it turns out that the same column must be drawn in two different colors. In this case, we give preference to one color, trying not to distort the ornament. It must also be remembered that it is difficult to embroider single columns in a different color, since you have to fasten the working thread twice - at the beginning and at the end of the work. Colored interlacing does not allow any jumps of the working thread on the wrong side, as in deaf embroidery, it cannot be hidden in the finished part of the ornament, as in flooring.

Embroidered insert ending with a fringe. The embroidery is made of burgundy, yellow and green floss.

On a piece of fabric, taking into account the fringe, we embroider an ornament (cell size 3x3 mm). Sew the insert along the line of the shoulder seam. The upper edge of the bodice, so that it does not shine through the mesh, is turned 1.5-2 cm inside out, tucked under the fringe to the insert and attached the mesh on the machine along the very edge. Then, in the usual manner, we process the armhole, decorate the neckline with a frill.

Line embroideries are called all varieties of openwork (through) sewing. To perform most line embroideries, the warp or weft threads are first pulled out of the fabric (sometimes both, forming nets). The simplest form of line embroidery is all kinds of hems.

Hemstitch

Merezhka is a narrow line embroidery, for which three, five or more threads are pulled out of the fabric along the warp or weft. On the resulting thinned strip, openwork patterns are made, connecting the threads of the fabric into bundles in various ways.

Merezhki come in a wide variety of forms, from simple narrow stitches to complex wide patterns resembling lace. Merezhki are widely used in embroidery in many regions of our country: in the middle zone of the RSFSR, in Ukraine, in Belarus, in the Baltic states. But most often, various hems are found in folk embroideries of the Arkhangelsk, Vologda, Gorky, Novgorod, Ryazan regions.

Openwork patterns of hemstitches are made mainly with white threads, however, in Ryazan, Oryol embroideries there are also colored threads, with the help of which beautiful patterns are created on an openwork background.

A wide variety of products, napkins, tablecloths, blouses, etc. are decorated with hemstitches. The simplest types of hemstitches are "tassel" and "column".

Any plain weave fabrics - cotton, linen, etc. are suitable for embroidery. The thickness of the thread is chosen depending on the texture of the fabric: for embroidery on thin fabrics, such as cambric, voile, it is recommended to use threads No. 80, 60;

Fastening the working thread. To secure the thread before starting embroidery, the needle is inserted between the threads of future columns and injected into the fabric, stepping back from the edge by two to three threads. Then, several free hemstitch threads are picked up with a needle, the working thread lies in a loop from right to left, as shown in Figure 9, and this loop is tightened, holding the free end of the thread. For strength, a second loop is usually made in this place and the extra tip of the thread is cut off. In stitch work (meaning the mesh), to secure the thread, a needle is stitched forward with a seam along the unsewn columns of the mesh (if the thread ended far from the edge), then the columns are wrapped around - and the missed thread is closed with embroidery.

Finishing the edge of the hemstitch. The edges of the hemstitches are fixed with a looped seam or a smooth roller. To make the roller stronger, it is carried out along a pre-laid thread, grabbing two or three threads of fabric from the edge and sticking a needle into each gap between the threads of the fabric. It turns out a strong, dense roller. The "tassel" or "column" hemstitch should be started by sealing the edge of the left side of the line (from its upper part) and then proceed to making brushes.

Merezhka "tassel"(Fig. 10). This hemstitch is one of the simplest in terms of execution technique. Only one side is sheathed in it, and it turns out, as it were, a brush of fabric threads. According to the principle of this hemstitch, many others are embroidered, but only in two moves - on both sides of the line - top and bottom.

Rice. 10. Merezhka "tassel"

To perform a "tassel" hemstitch, two or three or more threads of fabric are pulled out of the fabric. Having fixed the thread at the lower left edge of the sparse fabric, pick up the vertical threads with a needle from left to right (three to four, depending on the density of the fabric) and wrap them around them once from right to left, then stick the needle into the fabric from the wrong side, bringing it to the front on the right side from the resulting brush. On the wrong side, a diagonal stitch is formed under each tightened column.

Merezhka "column"(Fig. 11). This hemstitch can serve as a decorative ornament for a pattern (for example, in embroidery of a blouse, dress), but most often this hemstitch, like the "tassel" hemstitch, is used when decorating the edge of products - napkins, tablecloths, etc.

Rice. 11. Merezhka "column"

This hemstitch is done in the same way as the tassel hemstitch. First, the threads of the fabric are pulled together on one side, forming a brush, then the same threads are pulled together on the opposite side - columns are obtained, pulled together on both sides.

Rice. 12. Merezhka "split"

Merezhka "split"(Fig. 12). The hemstitch is first performed as a "tassel" hemstitch, while an even number of threads are pulled into a bundle. Then, on the opposite side, they pick up half of the threads of the first brush and half of the second and pull them together. As a result, they seem to split in half.

Openwork hemstitch of crossed posts(Fig. 13). To perform this hemstitch, the loose threads of the fabric are pulled together into thin columns of three to four threads, forming a "column" hemstitch. Then a thick twisted thread is fixed to the left in the middle at the edge of the hemstitch and two columns are crossed: they pick up the second column with a needle and move the first column to the place of the second. Then the needle is pulled through, pulling the working thread. In this case, the threads of the second column lie on the threads of the first.

Merezhka can also be performed from four columns, while the next two columns are captured with a needle, and the two previous ones are moved.

Merezhka "snopic"(Fig. 14). Threads are pulled out of the fabric, forming a thinned strip 1 cm wide. They make a "column" hemstitch. Then, having fixed the bobbin thread in the middle from the left edge of the hemstitch, they pull two or three columns together, placing the working thread in a loop above the needle. Having dragged the needle, the loop is tightened in the middle of the resulting sheaf. So that the knot does not move, immediately make a second loop. From sheaf to sheaf they pass with air connecting stitches.

Rice. 14. Merezhka "snopik"

Merezhka "snopic".Without binding middle thread(Fig. 15, a). First, a "column" hemstitch is performed. Sheaves can be made in different ways: you can sheathe from one edge of the strip or alternately from the bottom, then from the top edge.

In the first case, the thread is wrapped around the first bundle, then two bundles are sheathed. The thread remaining under the needle loops both bundles in the middle. Then, grabbing the second bundle, the working thread is pulled into the fabric.

Sheaves attached on both sides of the strip(Fig. 15, b), are especially beautiful. In this case, one column is wrapped around the working thread, then two or three columns are pulled together with a loop. After that, wrapping around the last column, they stretch the thread to the opposite edge, fixing it in the fabric so that there is no noticeable stitch. When the next sheaf is formed, the thread is returned back.

Rice. 15. Merezhka "sheaf": a - without a binding middle thread; b - fixed on both sides

Merezhka "spider"(Fig. 16). First, a "column" hemstitch is performed. Then, having fixed the thread in the middle of the left edge of the hemstitch, the columns of three are pulled together into sheaves. The working thread goes in a straight line to the end of the hemstitch, fastening the sheaves with a strong knot. Then, having hooked the working thread in the middle of the hemstitch (edge ​​roller) on the right side, they move in the opposite direction, intertwining the middle stretched thread.

Rice. 16. Merezhka "spider"

In the center of each bundle, a tightly intertwined circle is formed. The working thread is led in a circle, interlacing the columns. Having gone around the circle clockwise, they hook the last column with a needle and turn it back, twisting the columns counterclockwise. Having thus formed a circle (spider), the extended middle thread is wrapped around the same thread, moving on to the next sheaf.

The "spider" pattern can be used to fill in empty squares resulting from pulling threads from the fabric in the horizontal and vertical directions (Fig. 17).

Rice. 17. Filling the corner with a seam "spider"

To do this, the working thread is pulled from corner to corner of the square diagonally, and then horizontally and vertically. Stretched threads are sequentially wrapped around, the last to the middle. A knot is made in the center, fixing all the stretched threads into a bundle, and wrap around in a circle, first clockwise, then counterclockwise, forming a bundle.

Having made the last circle, fix the working thread on the thread that is not twisted to the middle. Having transplanted it, they stick a needle into the fabric and wrap around the edges of the square with a buttonhole or roller.

Merezhka "goat"(Fig. 18). Perform a hemstitch "column". With a working thread, the columns are pulled together with knots into bundles alternately in the lower and upper parts.

Rice. 18. Merezhka "goat"

Merezhka with an air loop - "ribbon"(Fig. 19) . First, the hemstitch columns are pulled into bundles in the upper and lower parts with a thick twisted thread. Next, the working thread is fixed with an air loop on the laid twisted thread, which tightens the bundles, while the needle goes above the thread forming the loop, and the working thread is pulled to the next bunch of columns.

Rice. 19. Merezhka with an air loop - "ribbon"

Merezhka "punk"(Fig. 20) . Two strips are pulled through the fabric, three or four unpulled threads are left between them, on which tassels are made on both sides at the same time. Having fixed the thread on the middle strip, with the first stitch, the needles take the loose threads of the fabric from below and tighten them. Moving the needle from the bottom of the fabric diagonally to the top position, pull the same number of threads in the upper part. Again they pass with a vertical stitch to the lower part along the front side of the hemstitch.

Rice. 20. Merezhka "punk"

The "punk" hemstitch often serves as a decoration for wider hemstitches, in which case it is placed at the edges and is called underlining.

Rice. 21. Merezhka "Polotnyanka"

Merezhka "Polotnyanka"(Fig. 21). A strip 1 cm wide is pulled through the fabric. On both sides of this strip, two to four threads of the fabric are left unpulled and then two or three more threads are pulled on each side. The threads of the fabric are pulled together into columns, stitching is done in the "punk" way. Then the working thread is fixed on a subline between the columns and wrapped around it in several columns. Having captured the first two columns on the left side with an air loop, the thread goes up and grabs the top subline with an air loop, goes over the next two columns on the right, then makes an air loop on the bottom subline. Then it moves along the bottom line of the subline, twisting it up to the seventh column. Between the sixth and seventh columns make the next air loop, etc.

Merezhka "flooring"(Fig. 22). The threads pulled out of the fabric are pulled into columns, then the working thread is fixed, pulling it in such a way that the first column remains under the thread, the second - on top, the third - under the thread, the fourth - on top. Having dragged the thread by the fourth column, with a reverse movement of the needles, the columns are covered with thread in the reverse order (as in darning) - the fourth column is under the thread, the third is on top, etc. So they continue to wrap around to the middle of the height of the hemstitch, then pick up four new columns, etc. d. "Laying" can also be embroidered on a multi-row hemstitch. At the same time, several rows of pulled out threads are collected in columns using the "punk" method, then a pattern is made with a "flooring" hemstitch.

Rice. 22. Merezhka "flooring"

Merezhka "flooring" is performed with floss threads. The thread must be pulled freely, without pulling the columns.

Merezhka "penny"(Fig. 23). A strip three threads wide is pulled out in the fabric, then an unpulled strip of 1 cm is left, three threads are pulled out again, etc. In the same way, the threads are pulled out in the vertical direction. After that, loose threads are alternately pulled together with a floss thread, three around each square formed as a result of pulling, each time passing through its center and forming a pattern. Then the columns are pulled together along the edge of the hemstitch.

Rice. 23. Merezhka "penny"

white stitching

In addition to hemstitch, white stitching has become widespread in folk embroidery. It is performed on a grid obtained by pulling three to four warp and weft threads. The vertical and horizontal columns of the grid are wrapped alternately diagonally with white threads. The twisted mesh is filled with various patterns. The most common techniques for filling the mesh include dense "flooring", single and double darning, air loop, "spiders", etc.

Line embroideries are typical for many regions of our country. In the folk embroideries of the Kalinin region, there is often a "stlan" made by the darning method, but on an untwisted grid. "Stlan" is performed with relatively thick threads. In the Ryazan region, colored threads were introduced into the "stlan", which made it possible to create various and subtle combinations of different shades of colors.

In preparation for embroidery, the dimensions of the mesh on the fabric are outlined. It can be in the form of a rectangle, a square. Several rows of threads are pulled out of the fabric, three or four threads in warp and weft. If the warp and weft threads are the same in thickness, then they are pulled out in the same number and the sides of the net will consist of an equal number of threads (if a square is intended).

Having marked the shape and size of the grid on the fabric, cut one thread at the edges of the square and pull them out. A colored thread is pulled along the formed strips with a “needle forward” seam, while counting the threads of the fabric picked up by the needle. If the cell should be in three threads in warp and weft, then take three per needle, skip three, etc. (Fig. 24, a).

If the warp or weft threads are not the same in thickness, then to obtain square cells on one side, a slightly larger number of them is pulled out.

Having made a calculation, the fabric is hooped into a hoop, the threads are cut from two opposite sides, raised on a colored thread, and they are pulled out. A smaller number of threads are cut along the edge of the square on each side, since when the edge of the embroidery is closed with a roller, the cage increases in size.

After pulling the grid, the edges of the square are pre-overcast, and then the horizontal and vertical columns are alternately wrapped in a diagonal direction (Fig. 24, b).

The thread is fixed in the lower left corner near the first lower column, then the columns are wrapped around and go diagonally under the crossing point of the horizontal and vertical threads to the first side column to the left, wrapping around it, pass through the fabric to the second diagonal row, etc. All stitches wrapping columns should lie in the same direction on the front side.

After wrapping the mesh, the edges of the square are fixed with a looped seam or a roller. The twisted mesh is filled with various line cuts. Below are the most common ones.

Single darning. The working thread is pulled over the grid columns from one edge of the pattern to the other. During the reverse course, the thread intertwines the places where it intersects with the grid. Then the cells are filled in the same way in the other direction. The progress of work is shown in Figure 25, a. Figure 25, b shows a pattern embroidered with a single darn.

Rice. 25. The sequence of filling stitch patterns with a seam is a single "darn" (a), a pattern made (b)

Double darning. It is performed in the same way as a single one, with the only difference being that the working thread is stretched and wrapped around twice in each cell (Fig. 26, a). Figure 26, b shows a pattern made with a double darn.

Rice. 26. The sequence of filling stitch patterns with a seam is a double "darn" (a), a pattern made (b)

"Flooring". The cells are filled with flooring, depending on the pattern, in one direction - horizontal or vertical. The working thread is alternately pulled through each cell. It passes either over the columns of the grid, or under them; back is returned in the reverse order (see Fig. 22).

Making an air loop on a mesh is similar to making it on a hemstitch (see Fig. 19).

Krestets embroidery

A variation of openwork embroidery is the warp stitch. Krestetskaya sewing white line - one of the types of Russian folk sewing, named after the village of Kresttsy in the Novgorod region - the center of this embroidery craft that arose in the 19th century. (60s).

Krestets embroidery is characterized by strict compositions of openwork and densely intertwined geometric ornamental forms on a through background, which are distinguished by the clarity of the pattern.

The warp stitch is a combination of coarse mesh embroidery with warp stitch motifs. Snovki are threads that are laid over the mesh or in those places where, according to the pattern, the fabric is previously removed in the form of a square or rectangle.

Snovki are fixed along the edges of the line motifs in the desired direction horizontally, vertically or diagonally. An openwork pattern of a geometric nature is formed along the laid warps by interlacing the working thread.

The simplest types of cross stitch include vintage guipure, whose patterns are built in an eight-petal chamomile, and loose guipure, where the patterns are formed by a combination of mesh squares filled with a darning seam, circles of different sizes and jumpers, located separately or assembled into stars.

Loose guipure. To perform sacral embroidery, loose Guipure (Fig. 27) is pulled out of the fabric, forming a grid with large cells (7x7 mm). The columns of the grid are wrapped around with bobbin threads, each column with several turns. In the center, the pattern is made with a "lattice" seam (triple darning), the stretched threads are wrapped around. The corners of the pattern and the middle are filled with a "spider" pattern, wrapping around the middle of intersecting warts, i.e. additionally laid diagonally threads in the cells.

To make this seam, linen threads or floss are used. The edges of the mesh in the sacristan embroidery are fixed with a small buttonhole stitch.

Vologda glass. Among the various types of Krestets stitching, Vologda glass stitching stands out with particular beauty (Fig. 28).

This embroidery is done with thin bobbin threads (No. 60, 80). To perform it, a square (rectangle) is marked on the fabric, divided into four small squares, these squares are cut out, leaving 6-8 threads of fabric (thin) between them.

Cut holes from corner to corner are crossed with diagonal stitches. Then thins and napkins are interlaced with flooring. In all the formed empty triangles, additional overlays are pulled, which are closed with a looped seam in accordance with the pattern.

Below is a description of other types of line embroidery.

Gorky guipure. This traditional line embroidery has existed in the Gorky region for a long time. Embroidery is performed on a large grid (mesh size 0.5 cm). After twisting, the mesh is filled according to the pattern with various cuts. The execution technique is shown in Figure 29.

Rice. 29. Gorky guipure: a - overcast mesh and festoons; b - the implementation of a dense asterisk; c - execution of a "spider" with air loops; g - making a corner with a "loop" seam

Gorky guipure abounds with convex long decks.

The patterns of these floorings are very diverse and have a common name - flowers. There are also motifs of a plant nature - branches with leaves, Christmas trees, ears of corn. The pattern on the products is obtained by combining different flowers.

Geometric and floral motifs, combined with light mesh cuts in the form of darning, air loops, form a beautiful openwork pattern (Fig. 30). Large, rhombus-shaped flowers are made with floss threads in the form of long stitches, fixed on grid posts. The cells around the flower are usually left blank, so the flowers do not blend into the background.

For Gorky guipure and Krestets stitching, the edge in the form of festoons is characteristic. When performing them, the borders of the pattern are stitched with a “forward needle” seam, using a bobbin thread for this, then they are tightly sheathed with a buttonhole seam and cut out.

Line embroidery on a free contour(Fig. 31). Embroidered on a small entwined mesh. The contours of the patterns are made with a floss thread with a “flooring” seam. Inside the rosette, patterns are filled with various techniques: darning, "flooring", air loop.

Line by letter. In the northern regions of Russia, in the Vologda and Olonets regions, embroideries are widespread, the technique of which is called "stitch by letter" or "tambour by grid" (Fig. 32). The Vologda and Olonets seam combines the techniques of through and blind seams according to the letter.

A pattern is applied to the fabric, its contour is sheathed with a chain stitch, then the threads are pulled out and the mesh is wrapped around - the background of the pattern. The pattern on the fabric is embroidered with various geometric motifs in the form of squares, triangles, rhombuses, etc. These geometric figures are made with smooth white thread, they are called satin.

"Colored interlace". Smolensk, Kaluga, Ryazan, Tula and other regions of Central Russia are characterized by a special type of line embroidery - "color interlace". Color interlace is performed on a fine mesh pulled out with colored floss threads. The figures of the main pattern are made with a seam "stlan" or "darning" on an untwisted mesh. Then the mesh around the pattern is tightly wrapped with colored threads.

The mesh is twisted diagonally with ledges, moving from a vertical column to a horizontal one, and vice versa. When moving from one column to another, at the intersection of the cells, a stitch is made diagonally from the front side so that there are no gaps in the fabric under the colored thread. Each column of the grid is wrapped around several times. The edges of the mesh are sheathed with a satin roller with colored thread (Fig. 33).

Rice. 33. Making a "colored interlace" seam

Banners. The openwork counted embroideries include banners, which, unlike line embroideries, are performed on a whole undisturbed fabric (Fig. 34, a, b). Banners are usually performed on thin fabrics - voile, cambric, radish, where the threads of the fabric are clearly visible.

Openwork patterns are formed as a result of the contraction of fabric threads in various ways. Banners often adorn the middle of flowers, round petals, and sometimes the background in embroideries with white stitching, which gives the patterns a special beauty and expressiveness.

Embroidery is an integral part of Ukrainian clothing and household items, which has long become an ornament, a real brand that is of interest all over the world. It has passed through the centuries and still has not lost its relevance. This is a favorite type of folk art.

There are many types and techniques of embroidery, each of which is individual, different in style and purpose. One of the oldest, most interesting and easiest ways of embroidery is hemstitch, which has long been a fairly well-known and popular type of needlework in different regions of Ukraine. Openwork and very elegant embroidery looks very elegant, and the products on which it was made are festive and elegant.

On the photo is the work of Lesya Demchuk

Merezhka is used to embroider women's and men's shirts, skirts, children's things, towels, napkins, bed linen, tablecloths, instead of seams, various parts of clothing are connected with it. Hems are sewn mainly with white or light colored threads (gray, pink, blue) on white fabric, and close to the tone if the fabric is colored.

Today, embroidery has not only returned to our lives, has become a fashionable decoration, but has also found its supporters among people of any age and gender. And many are trying to master the interesting technique of sewing hemstitch. Moreover, things decorated with hemstitch are always relevant.

If you are a patient, diligent and careful person, then your hemstitch will certainly turn out beautiful.

Types of hemstitches

Hems are embroidered on fabric, from which threads are usually removed in one direction (horizontally or vertically), and unstretched threads are combined with each other in various ways into bundles that create patterns. They make hemstitches both narrow and simple, and very complex, which turns them almost into thin lace.

Depending on what kind of hemstitch is embroidered, its various types are determined by technique, size and complexity of execution.

One-sided and two-sided hemstitch

One-sided - hemstitching, in which the strips of fabric from which the threads are drawn are processed on only one side. Such embroidery is usually processed on the bottom of clothing.

Double-sided - strips of fabric from which the threads are drawn are processed from opposite sides. There are two types: columns (embroidered on both sides equally) and split (sewn in a checkerboard pattern). It can also be sewn with a rearrangement of columns, which are intertwined in various variations. They can be used as independent decorations of the product, and as an integral part of other hemstitches.

Simple and complex hemstitch

Simple hemstitching is performed in one technique and is taken as the basis for all types of mesh.

Complex is embroidered on two or more strips of fabric, from which the threads are drawn, and between which there is a fabric with undrawn threads. In a complex hemstitch, several of its types can be combined.

Narrow and wide hem

Narrow is a simple hemstitch up to two centimeters wide, for the embroidery of which three to five threads are drawn.

Wide can be up to three centimeters wide. Usually they are performed on a large hoop or frame made of four slats.

Preparatory stage

And you need to start, of course, with the choice of the product that you want to decorate with hemstitch, and the fabric from which the product will be sewn. Since hemstitching is performed by pulling out the threads, the fabric must also be chosen one from which they can be easily removed. Fabrics with intricate weaving are not suitable for hemstitching. It is best to opt for smooth fabrics such as linen, cambric, cotton, silk. You can also learn on canvas or burlap.

Depending on the density of the selected fabric, you need to choose threads. Our great-grandmothers used threads that they pulled out of the fabric on which they embroidered. Modern needlewomen for hemstitching take cotton threads, iris, linen, silk or floss (a floss made up of two, three or four threads, depending on the thickness of the fabric, is best suited). They also sew with ordinary threads on spools (for thin fabrics, threads with high numbers of 60-80 are taken, for coarse ones - with medium ones). The color of the threads can be chosen to your taste, but the pattern looks most impressive when the embroidery is close in color to the fabric.

You also need to have a tapestry needle with a large eye and a blunt tip, small but sharp scissors for cutting threads on fabric and a hoop, especially if you are going to make wide hemstitches.

Beginning of work

Before pulling the threads from the canvas for hemstitching, it is necessary to outline the place where it will be placed, and its size in width and length. The threads that need to be pulled out, cut, wrap the ends inside out and fasten.

"Backtacks" are made in two ways - by rocking or by cutting and restoring fabric threads.

Rocking chairs are columns that are embroidered from three to five threads wide, through one thread of fabric, along the entire height of the hemstitch. Both sides of the hemstitch are sewn with rocking chairs. The threads, fixed with rocking chairs and carefully cut, are pulled out, and the cut ends are bent with a needle towards the main fabric.

Before you fix the threads by cutting and restoring, it is necessary to cut two threads in the middle of the place where the hemstitch will be embroidered. Using a needle, pull one of them 2.5 centimeters further than your planned edge of the hemstitch, bringing the thread inside out. The second thread is pulled to the limit of the hemstitch, threaded through the needle and passed through the hole from the first thread and further along its path. The threads that remain must be carefully trimmed.

Merezhka is always embroidered, moving from the left side to the right, while the work is on the index finger. With the middle and thumb of the left hand, pull the vertical threads of the hemstitch. The knots on the working thread are not used, the end of the thread is pulled into the hemstitch.

When the working thread ends during embroidery, it is secured by bringing it to the reverse side and passed under the hemstitch stitches.

Hemstitching techniques

There are many patterns for hemstitch embroidery. Differences in the technique of making seams and even in names are associated with the region in which they became widespread, with craftswomen who made their own adjustments to existing types of embroidery, thereby enriching them with new types and techniques.

The most common and easy-to-perform hemstitch embroidery techniques are twigs, flooring, posts, buckwheat, lyahovka, spider, goat, bug, punk and the like. But all of them are based on a simple technique - a “single twig” (brush).

"Single twig"

In this type of embroidery, the hemstitch, from which the threads are stretched to a width of up to five millimeters, is processed only on one side. A needle with a fixed working thread is picked up on the fabric from three to five threads (no more than three millimeters), under which it is pulled. After that, the needle is injected to the right of the picked up threads and is brought to the face diagonally through several threads under the working thread. All picked up threads are tightened. The rest of the columns are done in the same way. It is necessary to ensure that in each twig the number of threads, the slope and length are the same throughout the hemstitch, which will make the pattern neat.

"Double twig" (double-sided, regular, ladder)

This is a single twig, it is performed on both sides of the hemstitch. After embroidering one side, the fabric turns and is embroidered in the same way on the other, forming vertical twigs. This hemstitch fits under the base for other patterns.

"Split twig" (forked, lattice, worm, zigzag, snake)

Merezhka, in which each twig is divided in half from below. They are performed when the number of threads in the twigs is a steam room. After completing a one-sided twig, the work is turned, as for a double one, but half the threads of one twig and half the threads of the other are joined together. It is used as an addition to the ornaments of complex hemstitches and for hemming products.

"Crossed twigs" (intertwined)

This is a kind of double twig, in which adjacent twigs are intertwined with each other. After completing the double twig, the working thread is fixed in the middle of the rocking chair on the right, and the needle is inserted above the first twig under the second and scrolls counterclockwise from right to left. The thread is pulled in the middle, twisting the posts together. This decorative stitch has various variations and degrees of complexity.

"Flooring"

A wider hemstitch, which is performed on an already finished hemstitch with a double twig, for which ten to twenty threads are pulled out of the canvas, depending on the required width. It is embroidered with threads in the tone of the canvas - “countless grid” or with multi-colored threads - “shabak”.

The twigs are connected by three or four pieces in columns, a white or colored thread is laid on them, forming a pattern. The flooring can be made in the form of squares, zigzags, rhombuses. The working thread runs from right to left, one column is collected on the needle, and the second is passed under it. When moving in the other direction, we do the opposite.

"Columns"

It is performed to complement the main ornament and is the base for all more complex embroideries. In most regions of Ukraine, the columns are embroidered with threads according to the color of the fabric or with red threads.

When preparing the fabric for hemstitching, the threads are drawn alternately: three threads are drawn, two remain, three or four are drawn, two remain, three are drawn. Depending on the pattern in the hemstitch, the ratio of elongated and left threads will also change. The width of the hemstitch will depend on the density of the fabric.

Merezhka is sewn in three rows: a single twig, a column, a double twig. Embroidery begins with a single twig, in which the number of threads in the column should be equal to the number of extracted threads (in our example there will be three). The second row of hemstitching is embroidered in columns: the needle is inserted at the first twig and passes behind it. The thread is stretched and forms a flooring out of two twigs. After that, the needle goes over the deck and exits behind the second twig from right to left. Then the same thing is repeated until the floorings come to the threads of the fabric, and the columns turn out to be dense. All subsequent columns are sewn according to the same pattern, while the number of decks in each column should be the same. In the third row, the top and bottom are embroidered with a single twig.

"Double column" (buckwheat, buckwheat)

Merezhka, which decorates stripes with an ornament. The sequence of pulling threads is the same as in the usual column, but in the second row more threads are removed from sewing (four to five).

The first row is embroidered with a single twig. In the second row, the columns are embroidered exactly to the middle of the row. After that, the work is rotated 180 degrees so that the columns that are already embroidered are on top. The columns are sewn from right to left, for this, the rocking chair and the first twig are first captured. All other columns divide the already embroidered ones in half. The third row is embroidered again with a single twig.

"Goat" (folded hemstitch)

A very common type of hemstitch, in which a large number of varieties are known. It is used as an independent type of ornament, and between other types of hemstitching to complement the pattern. To perform it, ten threads are pulled out, which are first combined in bunches into columns, and then two columns together in two rows. The working thread first knots two columns, and then goes down and knots two more, uniting one column from the first bundle with another one from the next. All others are performed in the same way.

"Punk" (subline)

It is embroidered to tighten the columns of two adjacent hemstitches or to design the fit of the product.

Before execution, the punks are pulled out twice in five threads. Between these rows, from two to five threads remain unstretched, on which it will be embroidered. Tassels are made on both sides of the unstretched row, and the working thread performs a bottom-up stitch around this row. On the reverse side, a diagonal stitch is made to the right side and down, and the needle is brought out to the front side through several threads of the first stitch. Further, from the beginning of the stitch, a stitch is made diagonally upwards, and the brush is tightened.

"Bug"

Openwork hemstitch, which is sewn on the basis of double twigs.

The fixed working thread wraps around the first twig once or twice in the middle part of the hemstitch from right to left so that the thread passes under the twig. Next, a “needle forward” seam is performed: two twigs are captured under the needle, one above the needle. All three twigs are pulled together by two knots. The thread, when moving to the next bug, is always at the bottom.

"Spider"

Such hemstitching is performed on twigs assembled in a bundle.

First, the twigs are assembled together in the form of the letter “Zh”, after which, by sorting with a needle, two circles are made around the center: a twig for a needle, a twig for a needle. To another knot, the transition is made from the bottom of the previous one.

This type of hemstitching is also used to fill in empty squares when the threads in the pattern are pulled horizontally and vertically at the same time. The thread is pulled diagonally from one corner to another, in horizontal and vertical directions. These threads are twisted in a circle in the center, first in the direction of the clock, and then against.

"Lyakhovka"

This type is used in ornaments, most often as a line of limitation and is located below and above the hemstitch.

A lyakhovka is performed on the threads pulled out in series: first three are pulled out, the next three remain, after that a wide strip of up to ten threads is removed, and the pattern is repeated again - three remain, three are pulled out. Narrow hems are sheathed with single twigs. In the central part, two twigs are wrapped with a working thread, after which two others are taken from left to right under the needle - a loop is formed. Between the four twigs, threads of fabric and two twigs on the right are captured, and everything is wrapped around with a working thread. A working thread is taken on an elongated needle, which turned out to be under two threads of fabric. In the center, between the twigs, a rhombus (lyahovka) is formed. The next fragment of the pattern is created from two twigs of the first Lyakhovka and two other twigs.

In Ukrainian products embroidered with hemstitch, a multi-row lyahovka is often found. In it, the pattern is carried out in a checkerboard pattern.

We introduced you to the basic techniques of traditional Ukrainian hemstitching: from the simplest thin one to the more complex multi-row one. We hope that our tips will help you master this amazing type of embroidery and give you confidence in your work. A creative combination of different techniques in one ornament will make your embroidered products unique.

Merezhka is a type of white line embroidery, in which the threads of the fabric are pulled out in only one direction - along or across the fabric (along the warp or along the weft).

The vertical (in relation to work) threads that have not been pulled out are collected in bundles by various methods. Between themselves, these bundles are connected in a pattern.

Merezhka has long been known to many nations. It has received the greatest distribution in the Slavic countries, especially in Russia. It is very popular also in Italy and Scandinavian countries.

Colored hemstitch is an integral element of the decoration of almost all folk costumes.

There are hemstitches that are sewn on non-sparse fabric. These are the so-called banners. In them, openwork is obtained by pulling together the warp and weft threads with various stitches. Banners are performed on rare fabrics.

Any plain weave fabrics are suitable for hemstitches - linen, hemp, silk, cotton. The same thickness of the warp and weft threads is the most important condition for obtaining the correct hemstitch.

Merezhki are embroidered with strong threads of strong twist. Often use threads plucked from the material. In complex hems, the columns are intertwined with rather thick threads of light twist.

The drawing for this kind of embroidery is not re-shot onto the material; it is performed by looking at the sample. The embroiderer herself decides where, in which particular place of the product the pattern should be located, and depending on this, she pulls out the threads.

The technique of hemstitching is related to its type. We will consider only hemstitches on sparse fabric, which are used in combination with other seams in white and colored embroidery or act as an independent type of decoration.

Merezhki on sparse fabric are divided into simple and complex. Simple hemstitches include those for which few threads are pulled out (4-5, depending on the thickness of the threads of the fabric) and the remaining threads are grouped on both sides into bundles using various stitches. In complex hems, the threads are not only grouped by tightening on both sides, but also decorated with various patterns - weaves, darning stitches, etc.

The technique for preparing fabric for embroidery with simple and complex hemstitch is the same and consists of the following:

1. Determine the location of the hemstitch and its length.

2. At the appropriate spot, use the needle to pull out as many threads as necessary to obtain the desired stitch width. Pull the threads from the middle to the edges.

Throw the pulled out threads in the opposite direction, to the beginning of the line, fasten with a cord, a loop-like or looped seam, and only then cut it off.

The walls of the empty squares formed at the intersection of two drawn paths, also secure with one of the listed seams. Also read about cordon stitch embroidery.

Our great-grandmothers could not imagine a cozy home without textiles decorated in this way. Blouses, dresses, sundresses were decorated with elegant hems. The hemstitch embroidery looks particularly delicate and gentle on baby baptismal sets.

The progenitor of technology was an ancient type of needlework called "horse". Later, embroidery with pulled out threads became known as “pulled out” or “along the middle”. It is believed that this technique laid the foundation for the manufacture of lace.

Products decorated in this way look elegant. Since the fashion for any kind of embroidery has returned, needlewomen should pay attention to hemstitching. It is openwork embroidery. Before starting the process, a certain number of threads are pulled out of the fabric.

Fabric for embroidery

For this type of embroidery, it is important to choose the right fabric. It could be:

• batiste;
• silk;
• canvas;
• cotton canvas.

Choose a material with plain weave threads. It is easy to pull out elements from such a fabric and it is not difficult to work at all.

Threads

Threads should be selected, taking into account the density of matter. To work, you can use:

• bobbin threads No. 10 and No. 120;
• floss;
• threads drawn from fabric.

The color solution can be any depending on the design. Traditionally, hemstitching is done with threads to match the fabric or with a difference of several tones.

Merezhka for beginners

Merezhki are openwork seams. They can be the main part of the pattern or serve as an edging for the pattern. This type of embroidery refers to counted seams. Ornaments made with the help of hemstitch are distinguished by subtlety and grace.

Embroidery always starts with rocking chairs. Let's figure out how to make a hemstitch. Fasten the thread to the fabric using the "loop" method and then make a rocking chair. It is a vertical column embroidered through 2-5 threads of material and the height required for the pattern. The “rocking chair” fixes the threads of the fabric, which will need to be cut and pulled out for hemstitching.

Rows of hems are performed from right to left. The ends of the threads need to be fixed in rocking chairs from the inside out. The element is ready and now you need to cut and pull out the threads. We make half-columns to the end of the row.

Italian hemstitch for embroidery

This hemstitch consists of two half-columns separated by horizontal threads. Again, we start work with rocking chairs. Italian hemstitching consists of two strips of posts separated by horizontal threads (four rows). We embroider the hemstitch: we hug the threads in the lower strip of the columns and draw the needle diagonally into the upper strip of the columns. We do all this until the end of the row.

Merezhka "Tassel"

It is also called hemstitch "Twig" (single). We make a rocking chair and draw a track on the fabric. On one side of the matter we tighten the threads. Thus, the "Tassel" hemstitch is formed. We do the same on the opposite side. Now the columns will be drawn on both sides.

When working with a shared arrangement of threads and pulling out 5 elements of weaving, four of them will go to the brush. If you are going to make a cross-weave hemstitch, then you will need to remove four elements, and five of them will go to the “tassel”.

Types of patterns

There are a number of the most popular patterns in the hemstitch technique. These include:

• brushes;
• columns;
• goat;
• flooring.

Beadwork also goes well with this technique. Skillful craftswomen create complex and sophisticated patterns with beads: beads or glass beads are put on a thread between the elements of hemstitching. This is a complex and amazingly beautiful work that requires real skill.

Caring for products with hemstitch decor

Products with hems require careful handling. Let's start with the fact that such things are not suitable for everyday wear. Hemstitched textiles are also used on special occasions, as frequent washing and ironing will inevitably lead to deformation and damage to the embroidery.

You can wash things decorated with hemstitches only with your hands in not very hot soapy water. The powder is selected according to the composition of the fabric. If you still decide to use a machine wash, then choose a delicate mode without spinning. It is strictly forbidden to wring products at high speed!

Products should be ironed at the lowest temperature. To do this, prepare a slightly damp gauze in advance. Do not drive in one place for a long time. Try not to linger in one area for more than 1-2 seconds.

Ready-made kits for embroidery "Merezhka"

The Ukrainian company of the same name is considered the most popular in the needlework environment today. The Merezhka embroidery kit from this manufacturer may consist of blanks for decorating products with beads and various embroidery techniques. Manufacturers produce both small products for decorating the interior, and blanks for tablecloths, dresses, sundresses, shirts.

It is very convenient to embroider products from a Ukrainian manufacturer - the pattern is immediately applied to the fabric. The kits include threads, fabric, beads, pattern. Some of them are equipped with a frame for decorating embroidered pictures. Some kits also include a beginner's guide to hemstitching.

Air vyshyvanka white on white with hemstitch

Slavic women from time immemorial wore vyshyvankas. As a rule, they were embroidered with black, red or white threads. The last option is considered the most sophisticated and, as they say, "not for everyone." Modest girls chose a white embroidered shirt decorated with delicate hemstitches.

White-on-white hemstitch embroidery and decor is traditional for the Nordic countries. It arose there for a reason, but due to the fact that the days there are shorter than in the south, and the embroiderers had to work under artificial light. Since there was little light, and the work had to be neat, the needlewomen came up with the idea of ​​pulling the threads from the edges of the products in order to see the borders. Later they noticed that embroidery with openwork inserts looks graceful and unusual.

There is also a region where hemstitching is very popular in Ukraine. This is the village of Reshetilovka in the Poltava region. Here, craftswomen have been passing their knowledge from generation to generation for several centuries. Reshetilovka vyshyvankas and textiles are bought by brides and grooms for themed weddings in folk style. This product is necessarily decorated with delicate hemstitches.

In the years before the Second World War, the best craftswomen of the union worked on thematic panels that were supposed to glorify the Union of Republics. The most famous product was called "Moscow - the port of five seas." They were pictured:

• Kremlin;
• Mausoleum;
• wheat ears.

In 1939, the world exhibition of folk crafts was held in New York, where a tablecloth embroidered by craftsmen from the USSR was presented. The exhibit was called "Constellation". It depicted 11 stars, corresponding to the number of republics of a huge country. Panels depicting Stalin or the Workers' and Peasants' Army were also popular.

Hemstitch embroidery has another name "hardanger" or a through seam. Learning to embroider is best on canvas. It is easier to pull the threads out of it. This type of needlework is a meditative activity. Its implementation brings needlewomen joy and unusual tactile sensations.