Straight dress with raglan sleeve pattern. Dress pattern with raglan sleeves. Selection for the silhouette

Today we are looking at building patterns basics raglan cut. With this cut, the shoulder and sleeve are a single piece. This type of cut was introduced into fashion by the leader of the English troops, Lord Raglan, during the Crimean campaign in the middle of the 19th century. During the war, this type of clothing was preferable, as it protected against the penetration of water into the shoulder seams, which was important for every warrior.

Please note that the raglan cut is suitable for a figure with broad shoulders, visually reducing them.

Initial data

Important: measurements are taken as initial data size 50 for women according to the Italian cutting system.
For other sizes see. Typical measurements used in the Italian cutting system

Merck Designation Meaning
Body circumference above chest size (1/2 value) 100
Bust OG 104
Hip girth ABOUT 110
chest height
VG 28,4
Distance between centers
CG 22
Back length to waist
DTS 45,9
Front length to waist
car accident 47,9
Back Width ShS 42,9
Shoulder width ShP 44,9
Thigh height WB 53,5

Build note:

Building the base of the raglan cut

(one). It is preferable to start building a pattern of the front and back parts of the raglan cut base on the basis of the shoulder product (see the article “ Pattern of the base of the dress”). The only thing is the length of the pattern - to the hip. We reshoot the main lines and contours from the pattern of the base of the dress onto tracing paper.

Attention! It is necessary to take into account the fact that when constructing a pattern for the base of a raglan cut, the width of the back and front of the pattern must be the same !!!

Construction of a back detail pattern

(2). Postpone from v.G along the line GB 3-4 cm and put point G1. We connect it with t.M.

(3). We divide the segment G1M in half and put t.N. Up off t.N draw a perpendicular 0.5 cm, put v.N1.
We connect the dots with a smooth line G1, N1, M.

(four). The resulting line is the line raglan.

(5). The pattern of the back detail is ready.

Building a pattern for a front part

(6). From v.G down the neckline GB postpone 4-5 cm and put v.G4.

(eleven). We get a pattern of the front part of the base of the raglan cut.

The pattern for the raglan cut is ready!

Raglan is a special cut of the sleeve, named after the English General Fitzroy James Henry Somerset Raglan, who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. Clothing with sleeves of this style, tailored specifically for the general, made it possible to disguise a wounded shoulder, and in addition, such a cut made it possible to carry out comfortable care for the wounded. Raglan was the first to wear this style of clothing. Since then, the raglan sleeve has gained a lot of fans, several variants of this cut have appeared. In addition to the typical one, a semi-raglan, a raglan-epaulette, a fantasy raglan, a zero raglan appeared. Dresses with raglan sleeves are ideal if a woman wants to correct the width of her shoulders. Depending on the slope of the raglan line, you can visually increase or decrease the upper part of the silhouette. Consider how a dress pattern with a raglan sleeve is built and the technology for sewing such models.

There are several options for building such models. We will consider the Italian cutting system. We will build a pattern up to the waist line, since the lower part of the products can be modeled regardless of the cut of the sleeve.

We need measurements:

  • circumference above the chest (= size = 1⁄2 values);
  • chest circumference (OG);
  • hip circumference (OB);
  • chest height (SH);
  • distance between centers (CG);
  • back length to waist (DTS);
  • front length to waist (accident);
  • back width (SHS);
  • shoulder width (SHP);
  • hip height (WB).

As a base pattern, we use a pattern of a shoulder product. Let's put it on a roll.

Back

From the point (∙) G we measure 3-4 cm along the line GB. Mark (∙) G1. We divide the armhole line into three parts. On the border of the first third, we put (∙) M. We draw a straight line between (∙) M and G1.

In the center of the segment G1M we put (∙) N. From it along the perpendicular to the segment G1M we measure 5 mm, we put (∙) N1. Through (∙) G1, N1, M we draw a convex patterned curve.

We match this line with the bottom of the armhole. We have built a raglan line.

We select the contours of the pattern of the back.

Before

Set aside 4-5 cm from (∙) G along the roll-out line. Mark (∙) G4.

Combining (∙) G2 and (∙) G3, we close chest tuck.

We mark the armholes (∙) M1 on the line, connect it with (∙) G4.

In the center of the segment G4M we put (∙) N. From it along the perpendicular to the segment G4M we measure 5 mm, we put (∙) N1. Through (∙) G4, N1, M we draw a convex patterned curve.

We restore the tuck.

We select the contours of the front pattern.

Sleeve

We re-shoot the shoulders along the raglan line from the patterns of the back and front. At the same time, we close the chest tuck in front.

back detail

For the base, we use a pattern of a single-seam sleeve.

We mark at the top of the eye (∙) C. From it to left side set aside 0.5-2.0 cm, mark (∙) L1. We apply the cut-off fragment of the back detail to the back of the basic sleeve pattern, combining (∙) L1 with (∙) M and (∙) C with (∙) N.

From (∙) G to right side build a perpendicular. On it we measure 1 cm, put (∙) G2. We draw the segment G2C.

On the left side of (∙) M, we set aside 15 mm horizontally, mark (∙) M2. We draw a curved line through (∙) G1, (∙) M2, (∙) F. This will be the new sleeve line.

We select the contours of the back of the raglan sleeve.

front detail

Stepping back from the top of the eyelet 0.5-2.0 cm to the right side, we apply the cut-off fragment of the front part. We conjugate the lines of the circle by connecting (∙) L2 with (∙) C2 and (∙) M1 with the same point on the circle.

On the GG4 curve to the right of (∙) G, set aside 1 cm, put down (∙) G3. We draw the segment L2G3.

To the right of (∙) M1 horizontally set aside 10 mm, mark (∙) M3. We draw a curved line through (∙) G4, (∙) M3, (∙) F1. This will be the new sleeve line.

Combining both fragments, we get a raglan sleeve pattern.

Dress with darts with raglan sleeves: video master class

Dress with cut-off straight skirt and raglan sleeve

A ready-made dress pattern is used as a base pattern. straight silhouette and a pattern of a straight one-sutural sleeve. We build a pattern with our own hands or find it on the Internet for our size, print it out in full size.

Cut the pattern along the waist line. We translate the chest tuck into the waist line.

We mark the raglan line using the method described above.

Cut the pattern along these lines.

We attach the cut fragments to the sleeve pattern.

We glue them.

If we want to get a large expansion for folds at the bottom of the sleeve, then close the shoulder tuck and push the sleeve apart.

The tuck can be partially closed. In this case, we will get both a slightly extended sleeve and a tuck.

We mark and cut out the details of the bodice and sleeves with allowances of 1 cm around the perimeter.

We cut out a cut-off, narrowed down skirt with a slot.

We also need to cut out the blank for the belt.

Sweeping the details, doing the fitting. If everything is fine and no adjustment is required, we carry out tailoring of the dress.

Dress with a raglan sleeve shortened lowered: video mk

Knitted dress according to the finished pattern

Pattern summer dress with a raglan sleeve is made on the basis of a ready-made sweatshirt pattern. The templates are designed for several sizes for a height of 168 cm. You can choose your option by completing the main measurements - the circumference of the chest, waist, hips.

Represented:

  • 40 size - OG = 80 cm, FROM = 62 cm, ABOUT = 86 cm;
  • 42 size - OG = 84 cm, FROM = 65 cm, ABOUT = 92 cm;
  • 44 size - OG = 88 cm, FROM = 68 cm, ABOUT = 96 cm;
  • 46 size - OG = 92 cm, FROM = 74 cm, ABOUT = 100 cm;
  • 48 size - OG = 96 cm, FROM = 78 cm, ABOUT = 104 cm;
  • 50 size - OG = 100 cm, FROM = 82 cm, ABOUT = 108 cm;
  • 52 size - OG = 104 cm, FROM = 85 cm, ABOUT = 112 cm;
  • 54 size - OG = 108 cm, FROM = 88 cm, ABOUT = 116 cm;
  • 56 size - OG = 112 cm, OT = 92 cm, ABOUT = 120 cm;
  • 58 size - OG = 116 cm, FROM = 97 cm, ABOUT = 124 cm;
  • 60 size - OG = 120 cm, FROM = 101 cm, ABOUT = 128 cm.



To sew a knitted dress we will need:

  • knitted fabric for the main details;
  • knitted elastic for finishing;

How to sew a dress

We determine the desired length of the dress, mark the details on the fabric, increasing the length of the product. We cut out the front and back from the main material. Trims for processing sections are cut out of plain knitwear.

We cut off the sleeves with the detail of the front.

We carry out a machine line on one sleeve from the neck to the armhole, on the second - in the opposite direction.

We iron the seams.

We turn the allowances on the sleeves and iron them.

Similarly, we grind the sleeves with the back of the dress. We iron the allowances on the sleeves.

We fix the side seams with pins, aligning the seams of the armhole.


We sew on overlock. In this case, we perform one seam in the direction from the sleeve to the lower cut of the dress, we make the second seam in the opposite direction. This will give us the opportunity to iron the allowances of both seams on the back.

We cut out the elastic for finishing, we grind the parts along the short sides using an overlock.

We find and mark the middle of the details of the facing of the sleeves.

On the sleeves we also outline the middle.

We add the details of the elastic band and sleeves, combining the marks.

We chip with pins. At the same time, we turn the allowances of the sleeves to the side of the back. We advise you to turn the allowances on the elastic in different directions in order to get the minimum thickness of the material in this place.

We sew on overlock.

Approaching the beginning of the line, we put the knife in the lower position.

Turn it off so as not to cut off the beginning of the seam.

We tie the threads and crochet in a line.

Let's start processing the neck. To do this, we outline with pins the control points for attaching the elastic. As a rule, this is the center of the front and one point on the sleeves.


We cut out the detail of the facing from the gum.

We sew the elastic into a ring, outline the control points for sewing.

We chop off the elastic with cuts of the neck, combining the control points.

We are overlocking.

We process the lower sections of the dress on the overlock.

We tuck and sew with a straight line.

On the sleeves we perform finishing stitch. At the same time, we stretch the details of the material a little to get a more elastic seam.

We also perform a similar finishing seam on the neck.

Finally, iron the seams.

The dress is ready!

Pattern of a combined warm dress with a raglan sleeve turning into a yoke: video mk

Dress with one-piece tie at the waist

For work you need to prepare:

  • crepe - satin or other fabric that stretches in the transverse direction, width 1.45 m - 2.4 m (2.9 m), depending on the size;
  • interlining;
  • hidden zipper 60 cm long;
  • threads, sewing accessories.

Description

We will sew this model according to a pattern from Burda magazine No. 3/2016. Dress patterns are made for several sizes - from 34 to 42.

Schematic drawing of the dress - see below.

We sew waist tucks, iron them to the midline of the back. We grind parts of the back along the waist, iron the allowances, overcast the sections. We sew a zipper into the middle seam of the back using a special foot. We build up the rest of the middle seam, smooth the allowances in different directions, we overcast the sections.

We process sections on a one-piece tie.

We sew chest tucks on the shelf. We grind parts of a one-piece tie. We grind the bodice and skirt, we perform the middle seam. Overcast the cuts of the allowances.

View of the front side of the shelf - see the following photo.

We grind the second part of the tie, iron it. Gather to the desired width along the short side.

We carry out the side seams of the dress. At the same time we insert a tie into the left side seam.

We carry out seams on sleeves. We sew the sleeves into the armholes, slightly sitting down. We process the cuts of the allowances with an overlock.

We prepare the undercut facing for processing the neck. Overcast the bottom edge of the facing with an overlock. We apply the facing to the cuts of the rollout, folding the parts with the front sides. We cut, turn the facing on wrong side. We sweep, creating a small perekant. Sew close to the stitching seam.

On the wrong side, we fasten the facing with hidden stitches to the zipper braid and to the seam allowances.


We process the lower sections of the sleeves and the hem of the dress with an overlock. We tuck the bottom of the dress by 2.5 cm, the bottom of the sleeves by 2 cm. We hem it with a hidden seam. We iron the product.

Green knitted raglan dress: video mk

Ready-made patterns of a dress with a long sleeve and a hood

Youth knitted dress can be sewn according to the proposed patterns even without serious tailoring experience.

Patterns are made for several sizes.

You can choose the option you need by checking the measurements below:

  • 36(chest-waist-hips): 82-66-88cm;
  • 38 (chest-waist-hips): 86-70-92cm;
  • 40 (chest-waist-hips): 90-74-96cm;
  • 42 (chest-waist-hips): 94-78-100cm;
  • 44 (chest-waist-hips): 98-82-104cm;
  • 46 (chest-waist-hips): 102-86-108cm;
  • 48 (chest-waist-hips): 106-90-112cm;
  • 50 (chest-waist-hips): 110-94-116cm;
  • 52 (chest-waist-hips): 114-98-120cm;
  • 54 (chest-waist-hips): 118-102-124cm;
  • 56 (chest-waist-hips): 122-106-128 cm.











Raglan cap sleeve. Modeling and cutting: video mk

How to sew a dress with a raglan sleeve without a pattern

For such an a-line dress, a dense dress fabric with non-shedding cuts. This is important because when sewing, we will not process open cuts of some parts.

Any T-shirt can be used as a dress pattern. right size. The back will be sewn, with an open area on top along the midline.

Description

We cut out the main details of the front, sleeves and pockets.

We outline the position of the pockets, fix the details with pins.

Attaching pockets.

We carry out the middle seam on the back, leaving an open area on top. Cut off the excess.

We iron the seam allowances, attach the allowances with two lines.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes.

Cut out a strip for the drawstring. We fix it with pins along the roll-out of the neck.

If necessary, cut off the excess length of the strip.

We attach a strip with two lines (see photo), forming a drawstring.

We carry out sleeve and side seams. At the side seams, we leave an open area at the bottom for ease of wearing. Cut off the excess.

We iron out allowances. We sew allowances on the open areas of the side seams.

We turn the lower sections of the sleeves to the wrong side, sew.

We fill in the drawstring along the neck with an elastic band. The dress is ready!

Raglan short sleeve dress

Building a pattern

As a basis, we use the basic patterns of the dress and sleeves.

We transfer the chest tuck to the side seam. We model the rollout as shown in the figure.

We reshoot the sleeve pattern on tracing paper and cut it into two parts along a vertical line drawn through the highest point of the collar.

Place the front of the sleeve on the front of the dress. We draw smooth lines of contours of details.

We shorten the sleeve, as shown in the drawing. We redraw the pattern along the red lines on a separate sheet. Cut off the front along the blue line. We model the pattern of the back in the same way.

We cut out the collar collar along the oblique thread.

In this master class, I will tell you in detail, with a photo, how to properly build a pattern for a classic raglan sleeve. This type of sleeve is popular in a variety of clothing models: in coats and jackets, dresses and blouses. At the end of the article, I will show how to model a regular raglan sleeve for a dress. This figured type of sleeve is especially often used in models of dresses for women with magnificent forms. An example is Nice dress with smell.

What is the best place to start.

In order for you to build a successful raglan sleeve pattern yourself - photo 1, you need the one you made based on your measurements. And, short or long, which you also already checked in a product or in a trial version from an inexpensive fabric.

Why is it important? If the sleeve pattern and base pattern do not match your measurements, then the product with a raglan sleeve will not look perfect on your figure.

Also pay attention to the length of the shoulder cut. Usually, in articles with different methods of constructing a base pattern, it is recommended to draw the shoulder line on the back a little longer than the shoulder line on the shelf. This is justified in cases where a jacket, dress or coat is sewn from a soft, plastic fabric. For example, wool. Or loose fabric.

A small gathering on the shoulder line of the back allows for a more beautiful shoulder seam. Another option - this is necessary when a product is sewn on a stooped figure.

But when building a raglan sleeve pattern, the length of the shoulder on the front and back must be the same. If the figure is stooped, it is better to make tucks on the neckline of the back, or choose a model of clothing with a central seam on the back.

In the finished patterns, only one control line is indicated. You can mark the second one yourself at a distance of 4 - 5 cm up the hem of the sleeve and armhole - lines 1 and 2 - photo 3.

Then smoothly “roll” the sleeve pattern along the line of the armhole of the shelf. At point 3, fix with a pin - photo 4.

If the sleeve pattern perfectly matches the armhole, then the distance per shirring along the collar of the sleeve will be only 1.2 - 1.5 cm from the side of the front and back halves - the distance from point 3 to point 4 in photo 4. This is the distance between the point of coincidence along the length of the eyelet and armhole, and the center line of the sleeve.

In the same way, check the length of the armhole and the length of the armhole on the back pattern - photos 5 and 5-2, the distance between points 6 and 7. It is more convenient to make a control notch (point) at a distance of about 8 - 12 cm from the bottom point of the armhole. Usually, in this area, the smooth lines of the sleeve and armhole coincide - point 5.

Change the width of the patterns of the shelf and back.

As a rule, clothing models with a raglan style sleeve - a semi-adjacent or free silhouette. Therefore, it is recommended to make the base pattern a little wider. It is enough to add 1 cm along the line of the side seam of the front and back. In photo 6 - a shelf with a line along the side seam. Likewise, on the back.

It is necessary to expand the sleeve by the same distance. If you noticed, a dotted line has already been drawn on all the previous photos - photo 8.

If the sleeve pattern perfectly matches the armhole, then the armhole can not be deepened. Especially - for a pattern of a blouse or a dress. If, when checking the compliance of the sleeve and the length of the armhole, you got a distance of more than 1.5 cm, then the armhole can be slightly deepened - photo 6.

If you want the blouse or dress to fit the hips, it is enough to expand the front and back patterns by 1 cm only on the chest line, and draw a straight line to the waist line - photo 7.

To build a pattern for a raglan sleeve for a coat or raincoat, it is necessary to make a separate pattern, since the allowances for loose fit in these models are not 8 cm, as in the base pattern, but 9 - 12 cm.

We begin to build a raglan sleeve pattern for the back.

To build a classic sleeve of this style, once again attach the pattern of a single-seam sleeve to the pattern of the back - photo 9. And a little below your reference point 5, put a point 8. Moreover, mark it both on the armhole of the back and on the sleeve. Draw a straight line through it from the neck line - photo 10. Cut the pattern along the drawn straight line - photo 11.

Photo 12 shows both control points-notches on the sleeve - 5 and 8. Attach to them a cut-off fragment of the back pattern, enveloping the sleeve okrug - photo 13, and circle it with a felt-tip pen.

At point 8, slightly round the resulting corner. The result is in photo 14.

In order for the upper edge of the back half of the sleeve to turn out smooth, connect the top point on the collar with the central line of the sleeve, a smooth line - photo 15. That's it. The back half of the raglan sleeve is ready.

Construction of the front half of the sleeve.

We begin to build a pattern of the front half by transferring the chest tuck from the shoulder seam to the side seam. To do this, draw a straight line to the point of the chest from the side seam, at a distance of about 4 - 6 cm from the bottom point of the armhole - photo 16. Cut the pattern along this line. Connect the lines of the vertical tuck and secure with pins - photo 17.

Then draw a straight line from the neck to the armhole - photo 18. The point at which the straight line intersects and the first control point-notch on the sleeve pattern, as a rule, coincide. Or it can be 1 - 2 cm higher. Mark it on the sleeve and armhole, just as you did on the back pattern.

Cut off the resulting fragment of the front pattern - photo 19. In order to make it more convenient to build a pattern, circle 2 parts together - photos 20 and 21.

Attach the resulting fragment of the shelf to the sleeve pattern - photo 22. And circle it - photo 23.

Then connect the top point on the okat with the center line - photo 24. Photo 25 shows the finished raglan sleeve pattern that you built yourself.

Modeling raglan sleeves for a dress or blouse.

The figured raglan sleeve can decorate any model: dress, blouse or jacket. The basic principle of constructing a pattern is the same as we used for the classic version with a straight topline.

If you plan to sew a dress from a stretch fabric, then I recommend reducing the base pattern and the sleeve pattern. The sleeve can be reduced along the rim line and seam lines by 0.5 -1 cm. The front and back - along the side seam line by 1 cm. Along the shoulder and armhole lines - by 0.5 -1 cm - photo 26. I can’t say for sure - it all depends on the degree of elasticity of the fabric.

Transfer the chest tuck to the side seam. Draw a curly line for the top of the sleeve on the patterns of the front and back, in accordance with the selected model - photo 27. Do not forget to mark additional control points on the pattern of the sleeve and armholes of the front and back.

And keep in mind: the stronger the bend of the top, the more difficult it will be to sew in the sleeve. Try, for starters, to sew a model of a dress or blouse with a smooth edge of the sleeve.

Cut the shelf pattern along a smooth line, connect the 2 upper parts into one to make it more convenient - photo 28.

Attach the resulting piece to the pattern of the front of the one-sutural sleeve and circle - photos 29 and 30.

The resulting result is in photo 31. I did not cut the sleeve and front patterns along the dotted lines that we drew to reduce the pattern. Because this construction method is also suitable for models made of non-elastic fabrics.

In photo 32 - modeling a dress with a curly raglan sleeve and vertical reliefs - a model in photo 33. A dress of this style looks very nice on overweight women.

To make such a pattern from the base pattern, it is enough to transfer the chest tuck from the side seam to a vertical position again. Then cut the shelf pattern along the lines of the tuck at the waist. And push the resulting parts on the fabric so that the seam allowances are 1.5 - 2 cm on each side.

This is for a sheath dress. If it is planned to sew exactly such a model as in the figure, then each detail must be further expanded to the bottom line by 3-7 cm.

After the reliefs are stitched and ironed, it will be possible to start sewing on the sleeve. But more on that in the next tutorial.

Raglan sleeves are widely used in everyday wear. It creates a soft rounded shoulder line and visually reduces their width.

The raglan sleeve can be made by building or by modeling. The raglan sleeve, by construction, is laborious and requires calculations, but gives a good balance of the product on the figure.

In today's article, we will consider a method for designing a raglan pattern by modeling. This method is simpler and faster, but its implementation requires well-established backbones, shelves and sleeves.

2. On the back, move the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the armhole (in our example, the tuck gap is 1.5 cm).

3. On the front, turn the chest tuck into a waist tuck. Lengthen the armhole with a tail tuck by an amount equal to the lengthening of the armhole along the back (1.5 cm).

4. Deepen the armhole of the back and front by 3.8 cm (or other value according to the model).

Draw a new armhole line.

Shoulder section of the back of the raglan sleeve

4. From point A along the armhole, set aside half of the segment AB minus the tuck solution (1.5 cm). Point X received.

5. From the top of the neck, measure 3.2 cm and draw an auxiliary straight line to X.

Divide the resulting segment in half and restore a perpendicular 1 cm long.

6. Draw a line for the armhole / hem of the raglan sleeve as shown in fig. 2.

Shoulder section of the front of the raglan sleeve

7. From C along the armhole, set aside half of the segment CD minus the solution of the tuck (1.5 cm). Point X received.

9. Cut off the shoulder sections of the raglan sleeve pieces and save.

Changing the sleeve hem

2. Extend the line of the middle of the sleeve upwards from the eye by 0.6 cm. Draw a horizontal line through this point.

3. Set aside from K on the line of the elbow 0.6 cm outward and draw a new line for the front cut of the sleeve.

4. Set aside along the longitudinal sections of the sleeve 3.8 cm each - points E and F and draw the lower sections of the new okat line.

5. At the end, set aside:

  • distance EX equal to the segment AX on the armhole of the back;
  • distance FX equal to the segment CX on the front armhole.

6. Reduce the gap of the elbow tuck by 0.6 cm. Set aside 0.6 cm up from G (compensation for the reduction of the gap of the tuck) and draw a new line down to point H. The rest of the tuck gap is drawn up in the form of a landing, mark the landing position with control signs, as shown in fig. four.

Raglan pattern design

1. Attach the upper sections of the sleeve parts to the hem of the sleeve so that the X points are aligned, and the points B and D on the shoulder sections are located on the horizontal guide. Fix.

2. Mark a Z point on the horizontal guide midway between B and D (may not be in the middle).

3. Mark point Y at a distance of 1.6 cm from the middle of the sleeve along the bottom and draw a straight line from Z to Y (Fig. 5).

4. Draw curved cut lines from E and F to point Z (fig. 6).

5. Cut the raglan sleeve along the lines ZY, EZ and FZ.

6. Place the cut patterns on a piece of paper and separate their parts by 5 cm to lengthen the parts of the sleeve along the lower cuts. Fix and circle (Fig. 7).

7. Make new cuts from the elbow to E and F.

8. From B and D, set aside:

  • outwards by 0.6 cm;
  • along the lines of the upper cuts 7.6 cm down.

Draw the lines of the upper cuts through the obtained points, as shown in fig. 8. Put control signs (notches).

9. Indicate the direction of the warp threads on the patterns of the bodice and parts of the raglan sleeve (Fig. 9).

Raglan pattern is ready.

There is a funny paradox in knitting: despite the fact that the raglan sleeve pattern for knitted products there is, the question - how to cut a raglan for a knitted pullover or jacket is irrelevant, because, of course, sleeves for knitted sweaters are not cut out of fabric, but knitted or crocheted. By the way, you can download both patterns and patterns on many sites easily and completely free of charge, no question. The question is what to do with these patterns after that, if you are a beginner knitter and have not yet held knitting needles in your hands. And if you are a seamstress and want to learn how to build raglan patterns on your own, and not scour the Internet looking for the right ones? How to understand - who suits such a sleeve? If it doesn’t suit you, can raglan be converted into a regular one? And how to perform gradation of raglan sleeves in size? Let's figure it out.

Raglan is a special kind of sleeve. It is one with the shoulder. The lack of an armhole makes the garment as comfortable as possible. That is why such tailoring is most often used in the manufacture of sportswear. In addition, blouses and dresses, sweaters and sweaters with such a sleeve look more elegant and beautiful.

Raglan is a special kind of sleeve

Depending on where exactly the armhole line is drawn, the types of raglans can be as follows:

  • typical - the line is drawn literally one and a half centimeters below the upper point of the neck and smoothly falls down;
  • zero - the line is drawn from the top point of the front neckline to the top mark of the back neckline, smoothly descends from the top point down;
  • semi-raglan - the passage of the line is marked from the center of the shoulder. In the shoulder area there is a small gap between the armhole and the neckline;
  • raglan shoulder strap - the line runs parallel to the shoulder, there is a smooth transition to the armhole of the set-in sleeve;
  • fantasy - the bottom line is no different from the set-in sleeve, while the top one can be arbitrary.

Varieties of raglans, depending on the shape of the sleeve, can be as follows:

  • sheer;
  • soft.

The sleeves are also divided by the number of seams. Raglan can be:

  • one-sutural;
  • two-seam;
  • three-seam.

Raglan sleeve pattern with construction from the base base (video)

Building a raglan pattern for beginners

Even a beginner can build a pattern. Although this process cannot be called easy, it is still possible to follow the instructions. The main thing is to strictly follow the sequence of actions and be as careful as possible.

Even a beginner can build a pattern

How to cut out:

  1. From the pattern of the front and back, copy the shoulders along the line, and then close the chest recess in front. Thus, get a whole shoulder piece.
  2. Transfer the main points to the patterns of the one-sutural sleeve.
  3. Set aside a centimeter from point C along the SF line and mark point L.
  4. Attach to the main part of the sleeve the part cut off from the back and combine the L1M points with the CH points.
  5. Set aside one centimeter from point G to the right side and mark G2. Draw a line from G2 to L1.
  6. Set aside one and a half centimeters to the left side of the M mark and put a point M2
  7. Connect the marks G1, M2 and F with a smooth line, as a result of which you will get a rollback line.
  8. Now take the part cut off from the front, step back one centimeter along the line SF1 and connect the points L2 and M1 with the marks C2 and M1.
  9. To the right side of the G mark along the GG4 line, set aside just a centimeter and put a point G3, connect it to L2.
  10. Set aside a centimeter to the right of M1 and mark M2. Carry out segments G4, M3 and F1, as a result of this, get another rollback line.

Semi-raglan: building a pattern

To tailor a semi-raglan, you will need a minimum of time and knowledge. Step-by-step instruction will help to cope with this task even for a beginner.

How to cut correctly:

  1. On the pattern of the base of the front, close the tuck on the chest, distribute the depth.
  2. Cut a single-seam sleeve into two equal parts and lower the perpendicular from the highest rollback point to the bottom of the sleeve.
  3. Combine the front of the sleeve with half of the finished front pattern.
  4. Draw an arc AB and slightly round the line of the shoulder, raising it by half a centimeter.
  5. Cut the back horizontally and push it one and a half centimeters, straighten the middle line.

From the shoulder seam, cut out the details of the semi-raglan.

Raglan on the basis of a set-in sleeve

You can cut and sew a raglan based on a set-in sleeve simply and quickly.

This method of cutting is used most often, as it comes down to just a few actions:

  1. Transfer to paper the basics of the back and front.
  2. Transfer the top tuck to the neck.
  3. All tucks close and fasten.
  4. Now place the pattern on the figure and outline the line of the future coquette on it, draw the initial marks of the raglan.
  5. Next lay out the back and front, leveling the lower parts of the armhole.
  6. At one level, make notches 1.
  7. On both parts, draw vertical segments to the lines of the armhole and mark the points of contact with notch 2.
  8. Step back from the notches three centimeters and mark point 3 along the coquette line.
  9. Transfer the coquettes to another sheet, be sure to mark all the notches and close the back tuck on the shoulder.
  10. Transferring the drawings of the main parts to the fabric, additionally draw a yoke.
  11. Cut off the yoke after trying on.
  12. Replace the sleeve fit along the rollback line with a tuck.
  13. Transfer the base of the raglan onto paper, leaving the space necessary to build the coquette.
  14. In the upper part, between marks B, outline the tuck solution.
  15. Place notch A ten centimeters below the middle of the rollback and draw a concave line.
  16. Extend tuck lines.
  17. Fold the paper along the share and compare both tucks.
  18. Lay the yoke of the back part with the armhole at mark C and rotate until its mark 2 touches the rollback.
  19. Circle the yoke in this position.
  20. Perform the same manipulation with the yoke of the front.
  21. Smooth lines connect notches 3 with a rollback.
  22. Measure the distance from 3 to 1 notch and measure it from mark 3 along the curved line that has just been drawn and put notch 4.
  23. On the bodice, measure the length of the armhole.
  24. Also measure the rollback line on the sleeve, starting from the cuts along the burs and reaching point 4. Compare the data.

You can cut and sew a raglan based on a set-in sleeve simply and quickly

Distribute all excess between the sections drawn with a dotted line.

Raglan knitting

Raglan knitted with knitting needles looks no less impressive than knitwear. The process of knitting is very different from sewing. With the help of knitting needles, the sleeve is made much easier, since there is no need for patterns, it is enough just to make all the calculations.

  1. Dial on the required number of loops and knit the first nine lines in this pattern: air loop, front, yarn over, wrong side, six loops of the right sleeve, yarn over, wrong side, yarn over, sixteen stitches of the back, yarn over, wrong side, yarn over, six sleeve loops, yarn over, wrong side , yarn over, shelf stitch and air loop.
  2. In the purl rows, perform air stitches with hem stitches, all the rest with purl stitches.
  3. On the eleventh line, get a pair of air stitches from both sides and close the work on this.
  4. Continue working in a circle, knitting the main stitches and purl the raglan lines. Knit yarn overs.
  5. When all the stitches are typed, they need to be removed on a pin and left to work.
  6. Combine the main parts and continue knitting.

Knitted raglan looks no less impressive than knitwear

At the end, work the pattern with an elastic band and close all the loops.

What styles of clothing use raglan

Despite the practicality and convenience, raglan is not allowed to be used in all styles of clothing.

Most often, its use is resorted to in the following of them:

  • unisex. In most cases, raglan is cut from the neck;
  • ethnic. Due to the peculiarities of the cut, it is possible to achieve a special softness of all lines;
  • minimalism;
  • eclecticism. Style already initially involves borrowing details from various directions. Raglan in this case is also appropriate;
  • futurism. It is characterized by a complex cut and the use of bright, shiny materials;
  • romantic. The use of raglan in this case is also possible, but a lot of effort will be required to create a harmonious image.

Modeling a raglan sleeve based on a sew-in (video)

Raglan is an unusual sleeve model. With its help, it is possible to hide overly wide shoulders and make clothes as comfortable as possible. Even the simplest things made in this style acquire a very unusual and original look.