Overalls from soft spokes mk. Overalls from Softi. Description. Alize Softy yarn review

Knitted jumpsuit knit for young children, for toddlers, as a rule. Thanks to the knitted jumpsuit, the mother can be sure that the child will not be blown anywhere, nothing will fall off, it will not get dirty anywhere. In addition, it is easier and faster to dress a child in a knitted jumpsuit to get ready for a walk. There are different variations and names of overalls. Some call a knitted jumpsuit with knitting needles a bodysuit, a sandman. Overalls for children are knitted not only with knitting needles, but also with a crochet. Often there is a combination of techniques.

Knitted jumpsuit looks good in a set with other products - booties, socks, hats .. Send a photo of the finished jumpsuit, knitting pattern and description.

Overalls for animals

Another popular way to use jumpsuits is knitted jumpsuits for dogs (mostly, although nothing prevents you from knitting a jumpsuit for a cat). Dog overalls will not only help your friend feel comfortable on the street (especially if the animal is purely domestic), but such products are just plain fun. Remember that picture with a dog in a shark overalls :) There is a whole scope for creative hands here.

I took a description of the first toy that came across and knit faster! Already in the third row, it became clear that knitting from Alize Softy was not at all easy.

• Firstly, the thread stretches, you need to constantly adjust the tension.
• Secondly, the loops are not visible at all. You think there should definitely be 1 loop here, you knit a row, and at the end there are a couple of extra columns. You loosen - you knit, accurately counting each loop.
• Thirdly, if you need to knit according to the pattern, then the edges of the parts are fuzzy due to the fluffiness of the yarn, it is hard to see.

Well, if you tightened the loop, finished knitting, then it is impossible to find this final loop to dissolve the part.

• interesting selection on the site !!!
• An introductory article on amigurumi knitting. Basic tricks and simple toys.

For those who have not yet learned how to tame fluffy yarn, such as Alize Softy, we are writing this article.

Be sure to count the loops in each row, as well as the number of rows themselves! For convenience, use a row counter or keep notes. Because then it is very difficult to calculate how many rows you have tied.

1. When knitting, use markers! Without markers, it is very difficult to tie even a small part of a toy or clothing. It is the markers, i.e. there should be a lot of them:

• at the beginning of the row;
• in the middle of the row;
• at fiducial points;
• along the lines of additions or decreases;
• every 10 loops, for example.

Alize Softy yarn is very pleasant, inexpensive and grateful, if you make friends with it, you can create many beautiful things!

Alize Softy yarn review

The price of one skein is about 70-80 rubles in the shops of our city. Which hook for not to choose is better for you, it all depends on the skills and density of knitting. I use hook No. 3.5 for Alize Softy if I knit in one strand without adding smooth yarn.

The weight of one skein is 50 g and it took me a little more than 2 skeins for a bolero for a girl of 6-7 years old. Those. at a very low price. I really had to sweat a little, because. it was difficult for the first time not to make a mistake and tie two identical armholes and sleeves. But the child really liked the bolero from Alize Softy.

The footage is 115 m in 50 grams, the composition is 100% micropolyester. Unlike Adelia Sofia, the yarn is thinner and softer.

What can be knitted from Alize Softy

First of all, very soft toys are knitted from Alize Softy. It looks especially good in combination with smooth ordinary yarn. There are several shades of brown that are great for knitting bears. Mint and pink shades are very delicate. You can also knit children's blouses, blankets, elegant vests, etc. Here are some examples of products from Alize Softy with and without descriptions.

Hello! My name is Tatyana. I came up with such a fluffy sheep for the New Year. Already made a lot of them. Everyone asks for a diagram or description. So I decided to make Master Class for knitting this toy.

New Year Bear-Klaus. The work of Ekaterina Aleshina. Yarn "Alize Lanagold" (colors: red, black, white, yellow). Yarn "Softy Alize" white. Hook number 1.5. Sintepon filler. Bead eyes. You can also use any other yarn in suitable colors. Bear crochet, description sc - single crochet. HEAD: Knit

To knit a toy, you will need: ALIZE "Softy" yarn (100% micropolyester; 50g - 115m), white - 15g, red - 22g, pink - 11g. Knitted in one thread. Height - 30 cm (with ears). Hook number 3. Description of the toy Legs and body. 1r

Hat - earflaps crochet

Threads Alize lanagold brown 100g (240m), BABY Alize Softy 50g (115m) - blue fluffy. Hook number 4. Description of knitting: Knitted in a circle, starting from ch 2. closing in a circle. then knit in a circle 6 sc [=

Bactus on ties measuring 120 cm x 58 cm. Knitted from Lanoso baby alpaca wool 100% and Alize softy, hook 4. Yarn consumption 2 skeins of 50 g/200 m each, main and 50 g softy. Knitting pattern

Bears are crocheted, height 24 cm. Bears are knitted according to one description.

Necessary materials:

1. Yarn ALIZE Softy, color 119 (gray sky), one skein was enough for me.
2. Yarn ALIZE Softy, color 55 (white), for the muzzle.
3. YarnArt JEANS, color 33 (blue) for embroidering seams and nose.
4. Gray felt for patches.
5. Filler (synthetic winterizer, synthetic winterizer or holofiber).
6. Hook number 2.5.
7. Beads for the eyes (I have about 5 mm).
8. Long needle for thread fastening.

Fluffy hippo from Alize Softy, master class!

We will need:

• Alize Softy yarn (for those who want to knit in two threads - about two hanks or a little less, in one thread - less than one hank)
• or any plush yarn;
• yarn of a different color if you want to knit a girl;
• hook 3.5 (or the one that is convenient for you);
• sewn eyes;
• thread for embroidery of eyebrows;
• marker to mark the beginning of the row.

Set for discharge crochet from plush yarn. We start knitting with a blanket. We knit according to the scheme to the desired size. I have it 85 by 85 centimeters. I knitted the plaid myself from Alize Softy yarn, crochet number 4. Then it knits

Age 3-6 months.

Wool I knit with:

"Baby" blue color 6 skeins of 50g each and Alise Baby Softy white color 2 skeins of 50g each for sleeves and hood.

To decorate the "paws" I also used wool with blue acrylic.

Knitting pattern:

Back and front details

Start with booties and knit as one piece.

For the foot of the left booties on knitting needles No. 3.5, dial 37 loops and tie 1 row of faces. Mark loops No. 2 and No. 20 and knit faces. stitch, on both sides of the intended loops, performing in each 2nd row 3 times 1 crochet = 49 loops. Then knit without adding 14 rows of faces. satin stitch. Slip the first 23 sts and the last 15 sts on the auxiliary needle and knit the remaining 11 sts for the toe in garter stitch, knitting the last loop of the toe with the first loop from the auxiliary needle 7 times in each row. Resume all 35 stitches and work 6 rows in 1 x 1 Rib.

For the trouser leg, continue knitting with knitting needles No. 4 in garter stitch. After 17 cm, postpone knitting.

Knit the right bootie in the same way, marking the addition of loops No. 18 and No. 36. For the toe, leave the first 15 loops and the last 23 loops on the auxiliary knitting needle. Knit the pants in the same way.

On faces. knit side, join the loops as follows: cast on 10 loops, slip 35 loops of the right leg, cast on 10 loops, slip 35 loops of the left leg and cast on 10 loops = 100 loops.
Continue knitting in garter stitch. After 20 cm from the beginning of the edge, divide the knitting as follows: 27 loops - the right shelf, 46 loops - the back and 27 loops the left shelf.

Continue knitting 27 loops of the right shelf, decreasing in each 2nd row for the armhole 14 times 1 loop.

At the same time, to cut the neckline after 7 cm from the beginning of the armhole, first close 9 loops, then in each 2nd row 1 time 2 loops and 2 times 1 loop.
Knit the left shelf of the overalls symmetrically. Resume knitting 46 loops of the back, decreasing on both sides for armholes in each 2nd row 14 times 1 loop. Cast off the remaining 18 stitches and finish knitting at a distance of 47 cm from the booties.
Here's what I have now. It connected booties with trouser legs and switched to continuous knitting of shelves and backs.

On needles No. 3.5, cast on 25 loops and knit 8 rows with an elastic band 1 x 1. Continue knitting with needles No. 4 in garter stitch, evenly adding 8 loops in the 1st row = 33 loops. For sleeves at a height of 16 cm, decrease on both sides in each row 14 times 1 loop and at a total height of about 26 cm close the remaining 5 loops.

assembly + hood

Run the seams, sew into the armholes of the sleeve. On the edge of the neckline for the hood, pick up the loops on knitting needles No. 3.5, leaving 8 loops of each shelf free and knit 6 rows with an elastic band 1 x 1. Continue knitting with knitting needles No. 4 in garter stitch. After 21 cm from the elastic, close all the loops. Sew the hood seam. On the fastener bar of the left shelf for buttons, make 4 holes (overcast 1 loop): the first is about 3 cm from the beginning of the edge and the last is about 1 cm from the top edge, the rest are evenly distributed. Sew on buttons. Run a pompom, sew it to the hood.

Knitting density: 10 x 10 cm = 17 loops x 29 rows.

Since I will do it with a zipper, I don’t need to make holes, I’ll just sew on a lock. As for the pompom, I still think it will most likely be without it.

Since the question arose more than once about knitting booties, I describe how I knitted booties, though without photos:

For the foot of the left booties on knitting needles No. 3.5, dial 37 loops and tie 1 row of faces. Mark loops No. 2 and No. 20 and knit faces. stitch, on the intended loops, performing in each 2nd row 3 times 1 increase = 43 loops. Then knit without adding 14 rows of faces. satin stitch. My increase is as follows: from the marked loop, I pulled out one new loop for the back wall, and one more for the front. Slip the first 20 sts and the last 12 sts on the auxiliary needle and knit the remaining 11 sts for the toe in garter stitch, knitting the last loop of the toe with the first loop from the auxiliary needle 7 times in each row. That is, we divide 43 loops into three knitting needles: 20 + 11 + 12. We knit on the middle one, where there are 11 loops in garter stitch, while reaching the end of the row, we knit the last loop of the row together with the loop on the next knitting needle. And so 4 times or 8 decreases (on the left and right sides of the middle knitting needle). We should have only 35 loops left. From this place we knit, as it is written in the diagram.

Note about shelves:

I will have a zipper not open, but overlapped on top with a shelf bar. The result can already be seen below. And if someone wants an ordinary open zipper (i.e., which is sewn to the planks of the shelves butt-to-butt), then the straps need to be knitted less: at the stage of connecting the legs and moving to the shelves with the back - we collect fewer loops for the straps on the sides. I think that instead of 10 pet. dial 5. Then you get a butt joint without overlap.

It was originally planned that the overalls would be threads of the same color - blue, but there were not enough threads, I had to buy another yarn. So you get a combined jumpsuit (what a funny play on words): the sleeves and hood will be from a more delicate white Alise Baby Softy bun. But I also think it will be good. You will get the feeling that a white blouse is peeking out of a blue jumpsuit.

After 20cm I separated 27st. right shelf, and put the rest on the auxiliary knitting needle. I start knitting the right shelf.

Finished the right side. I knit the left one in the same way.

Finished the shelves and back. I hid all the threads. I decided to first connect the seams on the basis of the overalls, since nothing needs to be done with this part. Then I'll move on to the sleeves.

There was a little lack of crumbs on the back. I had to start adding Softy from Alize. But it turns out beautifully in the end.

On the back, I knitted it with a double thread in white, since the threads differ in thickness.

I have now started knitting sleeves. I knitted a trial piece from a single thread of Softy. It turns out thinner than from crumbs. And the density of knitting - for 10 cm - 19 loops. I will try to knit one sleeve now with a single thread and see if it will be much different. For this, based on the calculations, I scored not 33 loops, but 37. I decided to knit without an elastic band, with mittens that turn away. Below we discussed how best to make mittens. I haven't found any blueprints yet. I stopped for the time being on the option - knit separately and sew to the sleeve.

I knit a sleeve in stocking stitch (1 row of facial, 1 row of purl, etc.), as I looked - I like it better. And the scarf is a little ribbed.

Here for comparison:

I got this sleeve:

I decided to knit in one thread. I will not bind. It turned out very soft and warm. In two - it will be rougher.

More:

I knitted sleeves, which consist of the sleeve itself and the mitten.

I sewed the mitten to the sleeve on one side, decorated it and I will also make a button with a loop so that the mitten fastens on the non-sewn side (otherwise it will constantly move away from the sleeve):

I also decorated the feet:

And so I combined the two colors I used.

The next step is the zipper:
First, we sew the right half of the zipper to the right bar, but not edge to edge, but indented:

Then we sew the left half of the zipper to the left bar, also indented:

Here are my threads, the color is coral and milky, and tools, I highly recommend using markers, since on this thread we will not otherwise see where our raglan line is.

I will knit with knitting needles No. 3, on a knitted sample in 20 loops I have 10 cm, which means 1 cm 2 loops.
I will knit in size 68 (from 3 to 6 months).
Here are a few tables with sizes, the only thing I will immediately make a reservation is that all sizes are given for diaper allowance, so if I shorten the legs by 2-3 cm without shortening the overall length of the overalls.

For my size, the neck circumference is 22.5, but for the neckline, we add about 3 to 7 cm to this value (depending on how wide the neck you want to get), so I will do the calculations for 26 cm.
26*2=52 sts.
I leave one loop for raglan, so (52-4) / 3 = 16
so on the back we will have 16 loops for each sleeve, 8 loops
leave 3 cm on the bar * 2 = 6 loops
so on each shelf we take (16-6) / 2 = 5 loops
As a result, I dial 58 loops, I will knit the bar right away.

More information about the calculation of loops for raglan can be found here. http://www.stranamam.ru/post/4841218

I will collect on the auxiliary thread, which I will then unravel and from the resulting loops I will already knit a collar or hood.

First rowwe knit all facial, put markers separating raglan lines.
Second rowwe knit all the purl except for the loops of the straps, we always knit them with facial ones. Also, starting from the second row, I will knit a sprout, I will do this using short rows, you can read more about how to do this here http://www.stranamam.ru/post/7301753/
We knit:6 strap loops, 5p. shelves, 1p raglan, 8p. sleeve, 1p. raglan, 16p. back, 1p. raglan, 8p sleeve, 1p raglan, 4 loops of the shelf, wrap the 5th and turn knitting
Third row.Here we will already make increases on both sides of the raglan line, I will do them from broaches.
increase with an inclination to the right: insert the left knitting needle from back to front under the broach between the loops and knit it with the front one behind the front wall
increase with an inclination to the left: insert the left knitting needle from front to back under the broach between the loops and knit it with the front behind the back wall
Here is a video how to do it

We knit:4p. shelves, an increase from a broach, 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 8p. sleeve, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, increase from broach, 16p. back, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, an increase from a broach, 8p sleeve, an increase from a broach 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 4 loops of the 5th shelf we wrap and turn the knitting.
Fourth rowpurl without increments, we will wrap through one loop
We knit:5p. shelves, 1p raglan, 10p. sleeve, 1p. raglan, 18p. back, 1p. raglan, 10p sleeve, 1p raglan, 3 loops of the shelf, wrap the 4th and turn the knitting
Fifth row facial
We knit:3p. shelves, an increase from a broach, 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 10p. sleeve, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, increase from broach, 18p. back, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, an increase from a broach, 10p sleeve, an increase from a broach 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 3 loops of the 4th shelf we wrap and turn the knitting.
Sixth row purl
We knit:4p. shelves, 1p raglan, 12p. sleeve, 1p. raglan, 20p. back, 1p. raglan, 12p sleeve, 1p raglan, 2 loops of the shelf, wrap the 3rd and turn the knitting
Seventh row facial
We knit:2p. shelves, an increase from a broach, 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 12p. sleeve, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, increase from broach, 20p. back, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, an increase from a broach, 12p sleeve, an increase from a broach 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 2 loops of the 3rd shelf we wrap and turn the knitting.
Eighth row purl
We knit:3p. shelves, 1p raglan, 14p. sleeve, 1p. raglan, 22p. back, 1p. raglan, 14p sleeve, 1p raglan, 1 loop of the shelf 2nd wrap and turn knitting
Ninth row facial
We knit:1p. shelves, an increase from a broach, 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 14p. sleeve, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, increase from broach, 22p. back, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, an increase from a broach, 14p sleeve, an increase from a broach 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, 1 loop of the second shelf we wrap and turn the knitting.
Tenth row purl
We knit:2p. shelves, 1p raglan, 16p. sleeve, 1p. raglan, 24p. back, 1p. raglan, 16p sleeve, 1p raglan, wrap the 1st loop of the shelf and turn the knitting
Eleventh row facial
We knit:broach increase, 1p raglan, broach increase, 16p. sleeve, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, increase from broach, 24p. back, increase from broach, 1p. raglan, an increase from a broach, 16p sleeve, an increase from a broach, 1p raglan, an increase from a broach, we wrap the 1st loop of the shelf and turn the knitting
Twelfth row purl
We knit:knitting all loops with wrapped loops, not forgetting that they need to be knitted with wrapped thread so that there is no hole, not forgetting that the last 6 rows are our plank, which we always knit with facial loops
Thirteenth row facial
We knit:all making increment loops along the raglan line, knitting the wrapped loops on the other side, do not forget that the last 6 loops at the beginning and at the end we have a strap and we always knit them with facial ones, we do this so that the edge does not wrap in the future.
This is what I got after knitting these rows.

In total, I have 106 loops on the knitting needle (6p straps, 11p shelves, 1p raglan, 20p sleeve, 1p raglan, 28p back, 1p raglan, 20p sleeve, 1p raglan, 11p shelves, 6p straps)
In the 14th row on one of the straps we make holes for the buttons, knitting the 3rd and 4th loops together and making a crochet. I will make the next hole at a distance of 5 cm.
We knit the following rows by making increases only in the front rows along the raglan line, to the length we need, in my case the height of the armhole is 12 cm.

Do not forget that when we knit a bar of a different color, when the colors change, the threads need to be twisted together so that the parts are a single whole, so we have a dotted path on the wrong side.

I make the next hole for the button in the 31st row and in the next every 17th row (i.e. then 48 65 82 and so on)
I knitted 53 rows, but in 51 and 53 without increasing the back is already wide, I got 13 cm (1 cm more than in the table, this is necessary so that the sleeve sits a little loose)
Since in the table we only have the height of the armhole, I measure it in the middle of the back.
Then I knit the loops of the shelf, the loops of the raglan line and the sleeves I remove on an additional thread, I knit the loops of the back, the loops of the raglan and the second sleeve again I remove the loops on the additional thread and knit the loops remaining on the knitting needle
Here's what I got

Then we knit the main part, I will not make increments, since the width along the back is already 30 cm.
The total length of the jumpsuit for my size is 58 cm. The step height (from the bottom of the legs to the crotch) is 20, but as I said, I still make an allowance for the diaper, so my step height will be 18 cm, which means that from the neck to the crotch along the back we should be 58-18=40 cm, 3 cm to the bottom I will knit the shelves together so I knit a height of 37 cm on the back.

While knitting the first ball, the girls encountered 2 knots, but they have some kind of not very neat ones, so I had to bandage them, so what am I. there is a wonderful way to tie threads, for these it’s better not to think of it at all, the knots come out neat and then are not visible at all in the canvas, you can see more details here http://www.stranamam.ru/post/6644763/

At the moment, I have 20 cm tied along the back, I’ll run ahead a bit and describe how I will knit further, photo reports will be later. At a distance of 25 cm, I will start knitting additional rows on the back, all the same, we should have more space on the buttocks than in front. Although you can not do this.
I will do this by knitting short rows, for this, on the side seam line, I put markers, knit a shelf and back, wrap the loop in front of the marker, turn the knit, knit the loops of the back to the second marker, wrap the loop in front of the markers, turn the knit and knit to the end all the loops together with wrapped. And so I will do every 2 cm, so I will have an additional 12 rows knitted on the back in 6 places.
Here's what I got, additionally knitted rows are marked with markers.

Now I need to connect everything and knit in a circular one, who does not knit the bar like me right away, then you will need to dial additional loops. And I will need to combine the loops of both slats, I remove one of the slats on an additional knitting needle and knit 2 loops each (from one and the other slats), I do this by introducing the knitting needle into 2 loops at the same time (on the main and on the additional knitting needle). In the end I ended up like this

You can see that the two strips are connected.
We knit another 3 cm further and that y is 40 cm long, then we will divide the loops in half, so that the loops of the bar are on opposite sides, we remove one half on additional knitting needles, a pin or on a rope as it is convenient for you. Previously, I always just divided the loops in half and simply reduced or closed a few loops, I just knitted the legs, but now I decided that it was time to learn how to knit a gusset, and I really liked this one http://www.stranamam.ru/post/6087280/ thanks a lot to the author, very simple and convenient.
To knit the gusset, I pick up 12 loops between the legs (this is 6 cm, just right for my size).
We knit in a circle the first row, all the loops are facial. In the second row, we begin to decrease the added loops in this way - 2 loops together faces. (one loop from the pants, the second from the dialed), we knit the faces. dialed loops, except for the last one, knit them together with a loop from a pant leg.
track. We knit a row without decreases, then again a row with decreases, and so we alternate until the dialed loops are over.
This is what I got, of course, the resulting triangle is almost invisible, especially the yarn

and you can see it in this photo

In total, I knitted 4 cm, the total length of my leg is 18 cm, of which I will knit 4 cm with an elastic band, it remains to knit 10 cm. The width of the leg I got is 15 cm, at the bottom I want to get 12 cm, so I will need remove 3 cm * 2 = 6 loops. I will do one of the decreases immediately and we need to distribute the remaining five over the remaining 10 cm, which means that every 2 cm I will knit two loops together on each side of the inner leg seam (that is, we will decrease 2 loops every 2 cm ). Then I will knit 4 cm with an elastic band.
We knit the second leg in the same way as the first, only we collect additional loops according to those already typed earlier.
These are the pants I got

I note that the soft does not hold the gum at all. so I knitted a spandex thread into the cuffs.
Then I take the sleeves, lift the pending loops on one sleeve and so that there is no hole under the arm, there I raise 4 more loops.
Then we look at the table, the sleeve length is 20 cm, the shoulder length is 5.5, which means that from the neck we need to knit a sleeve 26.5 cm long, of which I will leave 4 cm on the cuffs and take into account that we already have 13 cm connected, 26.5- 4-13=9.5. In the first row I will make one decrease along the seam line (armpit), the next 2 rows I will knit without decrease and in 4 I will again decrease 2 loops, 2 more rows without decrease and again I will decrease 2 loops. Next, I will make 6 more reductions, spreading them over the remaining 9 cm, making each decrease after 1.5 cm.
The total sleeve width in front of the cuffs was 9 cm.
Here my sleeves are tied

Here in this photo you can see that there is no hole under the arm, which means you don’t have to sew anything up, which I really don’t like.

The last thing I have left is a collar, I won’t knit a hood because there are no threads left on it at all (there were only 4 balls). To do this, I unravel our auxiliary thread, at the same time transfer the loops to the knitting needles (I will take the knitting needles half a size smaller), knit with a 3 cm elastic band, then close our loops and voila, my jumpsuit is ready and without a single seam.

Today 4.07 I start the second jumpsuit, here are my strings

I will knit with a hood, but I haven’t decided how best to start knitting with a hood or knitting a hood from the collar. Therefore, I will start this way and that and see what I like best and leave it, I will describe both options. I’ll also immediately stipulate that I will knit on a clasp, so I’ll knit without a strap and I plan to knit with a hollow elastic band around the edges (I’ll think about it again), and the clasp will go along one of the legs.

So I start the first optionI will start with the hood. Let's start with the calculations, for my age, according to the table of caps, the height of the cap is 16 cm, add a few more centimeters (4-5, the older the child, the higher his neck) for the neck, and a couple of centimeters so that the hood is a little loose. In total, I will knit to a height of 22 cm. Next, we will determine the depth of the hood, according to the same table, we look at the diameter of the bottom of the cap for me, it is 14 cm, well, this will be our depth of the hood. If I do something wrong, be sure to correct me, all the same, I count on the hood in the first place and there is no one to try it on.
Here's the hat size chart

So for the hood, I need to dial 88 loops, this is our height multiplied by 2, since the hood is folded in half, and again multiplied by 2, since I have 2 loops in 1 cm. Initially, I wanted to knit the first 3 cm with a hollow elastic band so that the lace could be inserted, but the width of the hollow elastic band, if you cast on 2 times more loops, it turns out more, I didn’t have this before, probably the features of the yarn, so I decided to bend the edge to get a cavity under the cord . You can not do this, but simply tie with a 3 cm elastic band.

So we collect our 88 loops on an additional thread and knit 5-6 cm.
So I knitted 20 rows, it turned out 5 cm, it seemed to me that it was enough

Then I dissolved the add. thread by placing the loops on the extra. knitting needle and knit 2 loops together (one from the main knitting needle, one with an additional one), I do this by simultaneously introducing the knitting needle into two loops

And then we knit until we have 14 cm (I knit 12 cm), then we divide our loops into 3 parts, in the middle I will leave 26 loops and on the sides we have 31 loops left. I mark with markers, but inside the markers I leave not 26 but 24 loops, since I will knit the extreme loops alternately with the remaining ones along the edges.

That is, I knit the front row, I reach the second marker and knit the next 2 loops after the marker together, then turn the knitting and knit the purl row (without knitting to the end of the row) I reach the first marker and knit the next 2 loops after it together, turn the knits again and knit so until 1 loop remains at the edges of the marker.

We raise the loops along the edges of the hood, if there are more of them than necessary for the neck, then in the first row you need to reduce them. Having knitted one or two rows, we begin to knit a sprout and raglan.

Now I will try the second version of the hood. I will use this http://www.stranamam.ru/post/9917213/ .
To do this, I pick up 52 loops on an additional thread and knit a sprout and a little raglan, then I will close the loops so that the knitting needles do not interfere with me and unwind the typed thread around the neck. Since I will make a cavity for the lace, then in the next two rows along the edges I will add 4 loops, then I will bend the edge and heel.
From the 4th row, I will knit 6 short rows along the edges of the hood. We knit the first 17 loops, wrap the 18th, turn the work around, knit 17 loops in the opposite direction with purl loops. Then we knit 13 loops of the 14th loop with facial loops, we turn the work again, we knit back. Then we also knit 10 loops, wrap the 11th, knit back. We knit the row to the end, and do the same on the other side.
We knit in a height of 15 cm, then we divide the loops into 3 parts, into 19 22 and 19 loops, select the central 20 loops and knit by decreasing along the edges of the central 20 loops, as in the first version of the hood. We close the loops, tuck the edge and sew it.
I didn’t like the second option at all, it turned out to be very small, you either need to make a little increase before knitting a hood, or increase the neck, according to my fittings for a six-month-old daughter of a friend, the depth of the hood should be at least 18 cm. dismissed.

I will continue to knit with a hood according to the first option, I liked this hood more, I’ll just reduce it a little, it turned out a little bit too big, it turned out to be 6 to 9 months old.

Well, I finally finished knitting the second jumpsuit.
As promised, I tell you all the differences from the first, except for the hood and the zipper instead of the buttons, the only difference is that I put the fastener down one of the legs. To do this, first I knitted the left leg as in the first jumpsuit, and I knitted the second leg not in a circle, but in turning rows, observing the same decreases as in the left leg. Here's what I got

Knit baby jumpsuitWe offer 3-6 months according to our master class, in which the baby will be comfortable on a walk or on cool days. The jumpsuit is knitted from soft fluffy yarn Alize Baby Soft (100% micropolyester), the knitted fabric is very soft, gentle, like foam.

To knit a jumpsuit, you will need 4 skeins of yarn, 50 g each, it has 115 meters of thread; circular knitting needles No. 3.5.

This fluffy yarn makes the knit almost invisible, like a sweatshirt, so knitting intricate patterns is useless. For knitting the overalls, only garter stitch was used, in which only front loops are knitted in the front and back rows, front loops are knitted in the front surface on the front side, and purl loops are knitted on the wrong side. The cuffs on the pants and sleeves are knitted with an elastic band 1x1, 1 front and 1 wrong loop according to the pattern.

The jumpsuit is knitted from the bottom up. First, the legs are knitted separately.

For trouser leg Cast on 38 stitches individually, work 4 cm in 1x1 Rib. Then continue with a garter stitch, to expand the leg in the 1st and then in each 5th row, add 1 loop after the first edge. Note the places of additions in order to count the rows.

After 16 cm from the elastic band for the crotch, close 4 loops on both sides, in the next row 2 loops and 1 loop each. Set aside the remaining leg loops.

Knit the second leg in the same way as the first. Transfer the loops from both legs to circular knitting needles and continue to knit in circular rows with the front surface. To increase the back, through two circular rows on the back, knit short rows on the back loops back and forth. Work 6 short rows.

After 4-5 cm from the garter st, divide the loops in the center of the front and continue to knit with RS in straight and reverse rows.

Knit the body of the overalls for a length of 20-23 cm. Then divide the loops into three parts - right, left shelves and back. Knit each part separately, making decreases for raglan.

Knit back, making decreases at the beginning of each row, on the front side, knitting the first two loops together with the front, on the wrong side - the first two loops together with the wrong side. When the number of loops is halved, and the height of the armhole becomes 11-12 cm, set aside the remaining loops.

Knit shelves, making decreases through the row from the side of the sleeves, knitting the first two loops together. Having connected the shelves to the height of the back of the loop of the shelves, also set aside.

Now tie sleeves. Cast on 34 sts, for cuff tie 4 cm with 1x1 ribbing. Continue knitting the sleeve in garter stitch, inc on the 1st row at the beginning, continue to add a loop at the beginning of the row after the edge on every 5th row, and after 10 cm from the beginning on every 7th row. Having tied the sleeve to a height of 21 cm, start making reductions for raglan. To do this, at the beginning of each row, knit 2 loops together with the front. When 10 loops remain, and the raglan lines are the same length as on the shelves and back, set aside the remaining loops.

Knit the second sleeve in the same way.

On circular knitting needles, slip the loops of the shelves, sleeves and back, placing the loops of one and the second sleeve between the loops of the shelves and back. Next, for the gate strap, tie 2 cm with a 1x1 elastic band and close all the loops.