ATTENTION: To build a sleeve pattern, we need some data from the drawing dress basics. If you have not yet built a pattern for the base of the dress, The collar of the sleeve must match the specific armhole.

Let's start building the sleeve.

Draw a vertical line on the left side of a sheet of paper, on which set aside the measurement of the length of the sleeve (38 cm) and put points A and H. Draw horizontal lines through these points to the right.

From point A to the right, set aside the measurement of the girth of the arm plus 7 cm and put point B (21 + 7 \u003d 28 cm). From point B, lower the perpendicular to the bottom line, mark the intersection point as H1.

ATTENTION: To build the height of the eye, we need dress armhole depth. We look at the drawing of the pattern of the base of the dress, we find the distance PG. In our example, this is 15 cm. You take your size and continue.

From point A down, set aside 3/4 of the depth of the back armhole and set point O.

AO \u003d PG: 4x3 \u003d 15: 4 x 3 \u003d 11.4 cm.

Draw a horizontal line through point O to the right. Mark the point of intersection with the line BH1 as O1.

Divide the line OO1 into six equal parts, mark the division points as O2, O3, O4, O5, O6. From each division point, draw a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. Mark the intersection points A1, A2, A3, A4, A5.

From point O2 upwards, set aside 1/3 of the sleeve height minus 1 cm and set point A6

AO: 3-1 \u003d 11.4: 3 - 1 \u003d 2.8 cm.

From points A2 and A4 down, set aside 1/3 of the sleeve height minus 1.8 cm and put points A7 and A8

11.4: 3 - 1.8 = 2cm.

From point O6 upwards, set aside 1/6 of the sleeve height and set point A9

11.4: 6 = 1.9cm.

Connect points O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9, O1 with a smooth line. We have built an okat sleeve.

Set aside 2-3 cm from points H and H1 inside the drawing and put points H3 and H4. Connect these points with straight lines to points O and O1. Divide the distance between points H3 and H2 in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division point down. Divide the distance between points H2 and H4 in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division point up. Connect these points with a smooth line.

Children's clothing follows all the "adult" fashion trends, because children's patterns in magazines are printed along with adults. Using children's patterns for sewing, you will instill in your child a sense of beauty from childhood, in addition, your baby will always be dressed to the nines. However, children's patterns are somewhat different from adult clothing patterns, for which there are reasons due to the requirements for children's clothing. Therefore, when creating or using children's patterns, remember that there are several simple requirements for children's clothing, dictated by the physiology, valueology and lifestyle of the child. Clothes for babies should not hamper movements, in addition, the child grows too quickly, because children's patterns allow you to sew spacious clothes “for growth”. It should also be borne in mind that clothing for children should be light in weight, but warm. In addition, clothes for children should not be made from synthetic fabrics that disrupt proper skin breathing, because children's patterns are designed specifically for natural fabrics. So, when using children's patterns in sewing, remember about the quality of the fabric. Children's outfits should be made from hygroscopic, soft and easily washable materials. By the way, children's patterns always take these requirements into account ... And everything else is your imagination, which the children's patterns presented in this article will help to implement.

General information. Taking measurements

Measurements must be taken accurately, clearly and quickly (children easily get tired of being in the same position). During the taking of measurements, the child should stand straight, freely and naturally. In children, various kinds of deviations from the typical figure are possible, such as, for example, a protruding tummy, too straight or sloping shoulders, an irregular chest structure, and curvature of the spine. It is necessary that the child has a well-fitting T-shirt and panties on during the taking of measurements. All other clothing is removed.

To take measurements, you need a centimeter tape, braid or an elastic band to mark the waistline.

When taking measurements, the centimeter tape is not stretched, but it is also not held too loose (Fig. 1).

Measure 1. Height. This measurement is taken from the highest point of the head to the base of the legs. A triangle is applied at a right angle to the wall or to the niche of the door, as shown in the figure. The growth indicated in this way is measured in centimeters or it is indicated on a special column for measuring growth (Fig. 1a).

Measure 2. Neck girth. This measurement is a control, which is of great importance, especially in clothes with a fastener at the neck. They remove it along the base of the neck so that it does not put pressure on it, but not too loose (Fig. 16).

Measure 3. Chest circumference. A centimeter flight is carried out under the armpits to the front. The measure is taken freely, while the centimeter tape should in no case hang down (Fig. 1c).

Measure 4, Waist. They are removed through the deepest place of the body, and in small and plump children - along the protruding part of the tummy (Fig. 1d),

Measure 5. Hip circumference. When taking this measurement, a centimeter tape is carried out along the protruding places of the buttocks (Fig. 1e).

Measure 6. Back length. It is removed from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line indicated by the braid (Fig. 1f).

Measure 7. Back width. Measured from the base of one shoulder to the base of the other, above the upper part of the shoulder blades (Fig. 1b).

Measure 8. Front width. Removed at a distance of 4-6 cm from the base of the neck, from one recess under the arm to another (Fig. 1h).

Measure 9. Sleeve length. It is removed from the base of the shoulder (the place where the sleeve should be sewn in) and, holding the tape, lead along the outer side of the arm through a slightly bent elbow to the base of the hand (Fig. 1i).

Measure 10. Skirt length. Remove from the waist line along the right side to the planned length of the skirt (Fig. 1k).

Measure 11. Dress length. Take off from the waist line in the middle of the back. The tape is applied to the seventh cervical vertebra and lowered to the waist line. Here they are held, then lowered to the required length (Fig. 1l).

Measure 12. Pants length. Removed from the waistline along the right side to the base of the legs. For short trousers - from the waistline along the right side to the point of the planned length (Fig. 1m).

Baby Size Chart

Fundamentals of Drawing Drawings

The main drawing consists of auxiliary construction lines made on the basis of the measurements taken. The contours of the model are drawn on it: the neck line, the chest line, the waist line, the bottom line, etc. (Fig. 3).

The main drawing of the bodice for children under two years old

Familiarity with the construction of a simple drawing by the standards of infants and children under two years of age will facilitate the further execution of a pattern of an arbitrarily chosen model. The design was developed on the basis of the following measurements, see:

Neck girth -.24 (12).

Chest girth - 46 (23).

Back length - 19.

Back width - 22 (11).

Front width - 23 (11.6).

Basic grid of the bodice. The drawing starts from the vertical line (Fig. 4a), on which the length of the back is plotted from point 1 to point 2.

Segment 1 - 2 \u003d 19 cm.

The length of the back is divided in half. From point 3, which marks the middle of the back, lay down 1 cm (point 4). Draw a horizontal line from point 4. She is helpful. Half of the measurement of the width of the back, equal to 11 cm, is laid on it.

Armhole width calculation. The half-girth of the chest is 23 cm. When calculating, an allowance of 4 cm is taken into account, i.e.:

segment 23 + 4 - 27 cm.

1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest without allowance is 6.7 cm; with an allowance - 6.7 + 1 = 7.7.

Segment 5-6 - estimated width of the armhole, equal to 7.7 cm.

Segment 6-7 - half the width of the front, equal to 11.5 cm.

A perpendicular is lowered from point 7. From point 2 draw a horizontal line towards the middle of the front. The marked points are connected and a lower rectangle is obtained with corners at points 4, 2, 8, 7.

From point 7 continue to draw a vertical line indicating the length of the front.

Segment 8-9 - back length equal to the segment

19+ 1.5-20.5 cm. The points of the upper part of the front and back are connected.

If the child has a protruding tummy, then the basic grid requires a change in the slope of the line in the middle of the front. To do this, lay 0.5 cm to the left of point 8 and get point 8a. From point 8a through point 7, a line is drawn up until it intersects with the upper horizontal - point 9a, Point 10 divides the segment 6-5 in half.

On the line from point 1, lay the width of the neck, back, equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, plus 1 cm, i.e.:

7z &12 - 4 cm; 4 + 1 - 5 cm; l

Segment 1-11 - Va x 12 + 1 - b cm;

Segment 11-12 - 1.5 cm.

From point 9a, the width of the front neck is laid off, i.e. segment 1-11 = 5 cm (point 13). The depth of the neckline is laid off from point 9a, this is: also 1 / I measurements of the half-girth of the neck, plus 1 \u003d 6 cm (point 14).

Rice. 16. Designing a sleeping bag Suitcase for walking (model 1)

From point 14 lay off the width of the hood, equal to 17 cm (point 15).

A perpendicular is lowered from point 15 and a point 16 is placed at a distance of 4 cm from point 13. From point 16, 3 cm is laid to the left (point 17). Point 17 and 11 are connected. From point 11 lay 3 cm and a tuck depth of 2.5 cm, as shown in the figure. From the middle point of the tuck, a vertical line is drawn upwards, 7.5 cm long. From point 14, the line of the upper cut is extended by 2 cm (point 18). Points 18 and 12 connect. From point 18 lay 2 cm down and draw the outer line of the hood.

CUTTING AND SEWING

For cutting, place the pattern of the sleeping bag with a line from the middle of the back to the fold of the fabric. Allowances are given for seams from 1 to 1.5 cm, depending on the thickness of the fabric. Shoulder and side seams are ground, forming corners. The hood is ground down, a zipper is sewn into the bag. The back, elongated part is sewn into the front, forming corners.

Model 2. Sleeping bag with sleeves. Sleeping bags made of soft thick fabric or synthetic fur are warm and practical. The sleeves are combined, raglan in front, one-piece in the back. The bottom of the sleeves can be made in the form of mittens. The child can also slip the handles through the slits at the bottom of the sleeves. The hood, built separately, can be fastened or sewn on.

To make such a bag, you need 2.1 m of fabric with a width of 90 cm.

Required measurements, see:

Neck girth - 24 (12).

Chest girth - 50 (25).

Sleeve length - 20.

Bag length - 72.

BUILDING A DRAWING

Back. To build a drawing of the back, draw a vertical line from point 1 (Fig. 17a) and lay off the length of the sleeping bag, equal to 72 cm. From point 1, draw an auxiliary horizontal line of width and, first of all, lay off the width of the neck at the back, equal to 1/3 of the measurement of half the girth of the neck , plus 1.5 cm, i.e. 5.5 cm (point 3). The depth of the neck is laid off from point 1 - this is 1/3 of the measurement of half the girth of the neck, minus 1 cm, i.e. point 4. From point 3, 1/2 measurements of the half-girth of the chest are laid to the left, plus 2 cm, i.e. 14.5 cm (point 5). The marked points are connected. From point 5 on an elongated horizontal line, lay the length of the sleeve, plus 4 cm, i.e. 24 cm (point 6). From point 6, a perpendicular is lowered, on which 4 cm are laid (point 7). Point 7 is connected by a sleeve line with point 3. 14 cm are laid down from point 5 (point 8). From point 7, continue a vertical line and lay 14 cm on it (point 9). Points 9 and 8 connect and get the line of the lower cut of the sleeve. From point 8 lay 7 cm on the line of the lower cut of the sleeve (point 10).

Segment 8-11 - 4 cm; cut 8-12 - 11 cm.

The marked points are connected, getting a cut line. From point 7 lay 7 cm on the sleeve line (point 13). The segment 7-9 is divided in half, the middle point is connected to points 13 and 10 and the lower cut of the sleeve is obtained.

From point 2, continue the line of the middle of the back by 7 cm and draw a lower cut, which will be connected to the front and side of the bag.

Before. To build a drawing of the front, a vertical line is drawn. On it lay off from point 1 (Fig. 176) the length of the sleeping bag, equal to 72 cm (point 2). Dots 1 lay to the right the width of the neckline, equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the neck circumference, plus 1.5 cm, i.e. 5.5 cm (point 3). From point 1, lay down the depth of the neck, equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the girth of the neck, plus 2 cm, i.e. 6 cm (point 4). From point 3 on the horizontal line, a measurement of half the circumference of the chest is laid, plus 2 cm, i.e. 14.5 cm (point 5). A perpendicular is lowered from point 5, a horizontal line is drawn from point 2 to the right. Dots 5 lay the length of the sleeve, plus 4 cm, i.e. 24 cm. An auxiliary perpendicular is lowered from point 6 and 4 cm are laid on it (point 7), Point 7 is connected to the upper line of the sleeve with point 3. On the vertical line, 14 cm are laid off from point 5 (point 8). From point 7 continue a vertical line and set aside 14 cm (point 9).

Points 9 and 8 connect and get the line of the lower cut of the sleeve. From point 8 lay 7 cm on the line of the lower cut of the sleeve (point 10). From point 8, a bisector 4 cm long is drawn (point 11). To indicate the length of the cut from point 8, lay 11 cm (point 12). The marked points are connected and get a cut line. From point 7 lay 7 cm on the upper line of the sleeve (point 13). The segment 7-9 is divided in half and the middle point is connected to points 13 and 10, getting the line of the lower cut of the sleeve. The neck line is divided in half and the middle point is connected to point 8. From the middle point, lay 0.5 cm up and draw a raglan line.

The dotted line 4-12 is an extension of the line for the closure of the left upper part.

To build a drawing of the side part, a vertical line is drawn. The length of the segment 1-2 (Fig. 17c) corresponds to the length of the side line and the sleeve at the back, from point 2a to point 14 (see Fig. 176). The width of the side part from point 1 to point 3 and from point 2 to point 4 is 7 cm. Segment 1-3 is divided in half. The middle point 5 marks the end of the upper part of the side.

BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE HOOD

Drawing of the front of the hood. Start the drawing from a vertical line indicating the middle of the front. From point 1 (Fig. 17d) lay off the length of the front of the hood, equal to 31 cm. From point 1 on the horizontal line, lay off the width of the hood, equal to 21 cm (point 3). Points 1-3-4-2 are a rectangle. From point 4 lay up

4 cm (point 5). From point 5 they narrow in front of the hood on
4 cm (point 6); segment 5-7 = 1 cm.

Points 7 draw a horizontal line 8 cm long (point 8). Points 8 and 6 connect; segment 8-9 - tuck depth equal to 3 cm.

Rice. 17. Designing a sleeping bag with sleeves (model 2):
a - back; b - before; c - side part; g - front part of the hood; d - the back of the hood.

From the point of the middle of the tuck lay off its length, equal to 10 cm (point 10). Points 10 and 8, 10 and 9 are connected and get tuck lines.

The hood from the front is narrowed by 2.5 cm (point 11). Points 11 and 9 connect; segment 1-12 = 10 cm. Points 12 and 11 connect; segment 3-13 = 11.5 cm. Points 13 and b are connected.

Drawing of the back of the hood. Start the drawing from a vertical line indicating the middle of the back. From point 1 (Fig. 17d) lay 24 cm (point 2). From point 1 lay off the width of the hood, equal to 8 cm (point 3). A rectangle is built on the obtained points:

points 1-2-4-3; cut 3-5 = 7.5 cm; cut 4-6 = 2.5 cm.

The marked points are connected and receive the outer line of the back of the hood. From point 3, a bisector 2.5 cm long is drawn.

CUTTING AND SEWING

When cutting, do not forget about seam allowances. The pattern should be placed in the middle of the front and back to the fold of the fabric. The lobar thread of the hood passes through points 1-2. As an example, you can use a sleeping bag, in which the zipper runs through the center. First you need to sew a zipper in the center of the front. In the lower parts of the sleeves beforehand, process holes for the hands. If there is an applique or any decorations, they should be sewn on immediately. After that, it is necessary to connect the shoulder section of the sleeve, and then insert the side part between the front and back parts of the sleeping bag, connecting the points, starting with 2a and ending with point 14.

Connect the parts of the hood. The hood is desirable to make double. If it is sewn into the neck of the sleeping bag, then the upper and inner parts are ground off, leaving an open cut, which is sewn to the neck. Next, sew the front side of the hood to front side necks, connecting the centers. After that, tuck the inside of the hood 0.5 cm and stitch to the edge along the neckline. When the hood is ready, lay finishing stitch from the bottom of the bag along the entire length of the zipper, through the hood, and finish at the bottom on the other side. After that, stitch the bottom.

If your hood will be fastened, then the neck can be trimmed with an oblique or undercut trim. Then it is necessary to lay the finishing line, as in the first case, along the shelf, neck and second shelf. After that, stitch the bottom of the sleeping bag.

Stitch the hood in a circle, leaving an open area of ​​​​9-10 cm at the bottom. Turn the hood inside out, sew up the open area by hand. Lay a finishing line in the places of grinding. Punch loops along the bottom of the hood, and sew buttons along the neck of the sleeping bag.

sliders
These are rompers for baby from 4 to 9 months. The front and legs fasten with buttons. In this case, changing diapers is not a problem. Raglan sleeves do not restrict the child's freedom of movement. The bottom is trimmed with undercut details, which, after folding, form cuffs. Spectacular boots are obtained from trousers finished with feet (heels) and pulled together around the base of the foot.

For the manufacture of such sliders, 0.8 m of fabric is required with a width of 1.4 or 1.6 m.

The following measurements are required, see:

Chest girth - 50 (25).

Leg length (from the waist to the base of the foot) -38.

Foot length - 12.

BUILDING A DRAWING

For modeling, the main drawing of the front and back of the bodice is used (see Fig. 36), as well as the sleeves (see Fig. 3v), taking into account the size of the child. When performing sliders with set-in sleeves, the drawings of the bodice and sleeves are left unchanged, and the legs are drawn according to the description below.

Leaf. After the drawing of the bodice (raglan) is located by the middle line and in a straight line from point 1 (Fig. 18a), y3 measurements of the half-girth of the chest are laid, minus 2 cm, i.e. 0.3 cm. A perpendicular is lowered from point 2, then a cut height is set equal to 1/2 of the measurement of the half-girth of the chest, plus 1 cm, i.e. 13.5 cm (point 3).

The length from the waist to the base of the foot (section 2-4) is 38 cm; segment 4-5 = 4 cm; segment 5-6 - 2/3 measurements of the length of the foot, i.e. 8 cm

From point 3, lay off on the auxiliary cut line 1/3 of the half-girth of the chest, minus 21 cm, i.e. 7.3 cm (point 7). Point 7 is connected to point S (the intersection point of the neck and front of the bodice). From point 3 to point 8, 1/3 of the measurements of the half-girth of the chest minus 1 cm are also laid aside, i.e. 7.3 cm. Then they indicate the width of the bottom, setting aside from point 6 to 4 cm:

segment 6-9 = 4 cm; segment 6-1 = 4 cm.

Point 9 is connected to point 7, point 10 to point 8. The drawing is expanded, taking into account the allowance for the fastener by 2 cm from points 5 and S.

The leg lines are narrowed from the side of the middle of the front by 1 cm, from the side by 0.5 cm. From point 4, assembly lines are drawn to the base of the foot. Points 5a and 56 indicate where the leg seams end. On the segment indicated by points 5a, 6, 56, the feet indicated by points 4, 1, 5 are sewn in front of the feet. The raglan cut is lengthened by 1 cm and a side line is drawn.

Back. The drawing has a midline along a vertical line. From point 1 (Fig. 186) along the waist line, 1/3 of the measurements of the circumference of the chest are laid, i.e. 8.3 cm (point 2). Draw a vertical line down from point 2. The back cut height is 1.5 cm longer than the front cut height.

Segment 2-3 \u003d 1/3 of the half-girth of the chest + 2.5 cm + 15 cm.

Section 2-4 = leg length from waist to base of foot + 38 cm.

Segment 4-5 = 4 cm.

Segment 5-6 \u003d 1/3 measurements of the length of the foot, i.e. 4 cm

From point 3, a segment 3-7 is laid on the auxiliary line (from the front drawing), plus 1 cm, i.e. 8.3 cm (point 7), From point 3 lay 8.3 cm (point 8).

Trouser leg. To build the width of the lower cut, the legs are laid off from point 6 vertically and horizontally by 4 cm (points 9 and 5) and 5 cm (point 10). Points 10 and 8 are connected by an auxiliary line. The leg segment from point 3 to point 4 is divided in half. From the intended point 11, an auxiliary line is drawn to the line connecting points 10 and 8. The main leg line is narrowed by 1 cm (point 11a). From point 11, the remaining leg width is indicated, setting aside the length of the segment 11-11a (point 12). Points 12, 7 and 9 connect. Point 13 marks the middle of segment 7-12.

The auxiliary line is narrowed by 0.5 cm. They indicate the line of selection of the fastener 2.5 cm wide, reaching point 14. The cut line indicated by points 5a,

6 and 56 are connected by a line on the back of the foot, indicated by points 4, 2 and 5.

The raglan cut line is extended by 1 cm and a side line is built.

Sole. Points 1 (Fig. 18c) mark the length of the foot equal to 12 cm (point 2).

Section 2-3 \u003d Oz of the length of the foot, i.e. 4 cm

Section 3-4 = section 3-5 = 4 cm.

The marked points are connected by the outer lines of the foot, as shown in the figure.

Wedge. The legs are connected with a wedge sewn into the cut of the seat.

A square is built (Fig. 18d), with sides equal to the segment 7-13 (see Fig. 186). In this case, the segment 7-13 is equal to

7 cm. From points 1 and 4, the drawing is enlarged, giving an allowance for the clasp of 2 cm. The remaining indicated excess fabric 2 cm wide is used to select the clasp.

Rice. 18. Pattern of sliders:
a - before; b - back; c - foot; g - wedge; d - sleeve

Sleeve. The sleeve is extended by the width of the bent cuff, i.e. by 4 cm. The upper cut is extended by 1 cm (Fig. 18e).

When cutting, allowances are taken into account: 1 cm - along the line of the neck, front, back, sleeves; 1.6 cm - along the raglan line; along the line of the middle of the front - 5 cm (on the collar of the fastener); along the inner cut of the bottom of the leg - 2 cm (on the fastener collar); on the side seams - 1.5 cm, along the cut line of the foot and the lower sections of the front and back parts - 0.5 cm.

CUTTING AND SEWING

After cutting, the side sections of the front and back, as well as the sections of the sleeves, are ground down. The segments of the inner sections of the legs are sewn from the places indicated on the pattern by dots 5 a (Fig. 18a, b) to the lines indicating the assembly. The feet are sewn in, respectively connecting the front and back parts.

Then a wedge is ground down with the backs of the legs along the upper sections so that point 3 on the drawing of the wedge is connected to point 7 on the drawing of the back. The facing and fabric of the seams at the edges of the fastener of the inner sections of the front of the leg and the wedge are folded to the wrong side under the internal environment of the back of the leg. The facing is accepted.

To strengthen the sections of the front, fasteners at the neck and sleeves, as well as for decorative purposes, you can use the inlay after cutting along the oblique thread. The width of the inlay after cutting should be 2.5 cm, its width along the front side should be about 0.5 cm. According to the designation, the inlays are sewn to the bottom of the legs. Elastic bands or ties are inserted into them. Buttons are attached in the middle of the front and in the inner sections of the legs, or flat buttons are sewn on and the loops of the appropriate length are sewn.

With these girls, no sweetness:

They didn’t have time to grow up - they demand outfits!

Every day of excitement

Everyday worries:

Oh, those young ladies!

Oh those mods!

In this article, we tell you how to build a pattern for the base of a dress for a younger and older girl.

In this article, we describe how to build a pattern of the base of the dress for a girl of younger and older age.

If you have a little fashionista, I mean a daughter or granddaughter, then you just need to master the technique of building patterns for girls. Children grow out of clothes very quickly, and every time you want to update your children's wardrobe, you will have to build a new pattern. It may seem difficult at first. But I assure you, the second, third time will be much easier. And the fifth time, starting to build, you will know all the calculations by heart. It's not difficult at all. Moreover, we offer STEP-BY-STEP instructions constructing a pattern drawing. Line by line and the pattern is ready. Everything is simple.

Today we will learn how to build a pattern basics dresses. And later, on the basis of this foundation, we will master the modeling different styles children's clothing. It is very exciting! I don't even know who will enjoy it more. You - from the very process of creating a children's wardrobe or your little "client", receiving new outfits as a gift from you. In my opinion, this is a mutually beneficial cooperation. Moreover, the benefit, first of all, is in the moral satisfaction of both parties. This is cool!

For the manufacture of the correct pattern, it is necessary to have accurately taken measurements. If mistakes are made when taking measurements, the drawing will turn out to be inaccurate and the dress will not sit well on the figure.

Measurements are taken with a measuring tape, which is not loosened or pulled tight. A girl dressed in light clothing or underwear should stand without tension, in a normal position. A lace or a thin belt is tied along the waist line.

When taking measurements, you need to specify the height of the shoulders. Shoulders are high, normal and sloping. Everything is like adults.

The correct construction of the drawing largely depends on this measurement.

As an example, we will build a pattern for the 32nd size. You are taking measurements on your young lady.

Girl's dress

To build a pattern drawing, you will need the following measurements:

Half neck		Measured at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Half bust		This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should run along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Half waist		Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Semi circumference of the hips		Measured at the highest part of the hips, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measure is written in half size.
		The distance between the high points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.
		Measure by placing a centimeter tape from the left hand to the right at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size.
		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace at the waist. The measure is recorded in full.
Length of the product		Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length (8). The measure is recorded in full.
Shoulder length		Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measure is recorded in full.
Arm circumference		Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measure is recorded in full.
The length of the sleeve		Measure from the shoulder joint to the wrist. The measure is recorded in full.
Increase in free fit along the chest line 6 cm (for older girls, add 5 cm for free fit), along the waist line 2 cm (for older girls add 1 cm), along the hips 3 cm (for older girls 2 cm).

On the left side of a piece of paper

stepping back from the upper cut of centimeters by 7, draw a vertical line on which set aside the measurement of the length of the dress and put points A and H. Draw horizontal lines through points A and H to the right.

From point A to the right, set aside the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest plus 6 cm for a loose fit (for older girls, add 5 cm for a free fit) and set point B.

AB \u003d 32 + 6 \u003d 38 cm.

From point B, lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line. Mark the intersection point as H1.

From point A down, measure the length of the back to the waist plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and put a point T.

AT \u003d 29 + 1 \u003d 30 cm.

Draw a horizontal line through point T to the right. Mark the point of intersection with the BH1 line as T1.

From point T down, set aside 1/2 measurements of the length of the back to the waist and set point B

29:2=14.5cm

Draw a horizontal line through point B to the right until it intersects with line BH1. Mark the intersection point B1.

From point A to the right, set aside the measurement of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put point A1

14 + 1.5 = 15.5 cm

Armhole width.

From point A1 to the right, set aside ¼ chest measurements plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and put point A2.

A1A2 \u003d 32: 4 + 1 \u003d 9 cm.

From points A1 and A2 down draw vertical lines of arbitrary length.

From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put point A3.

AA3 \u003d 14: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.2 cm.

Draw a perpendicular from point A3 upwards, on which set aside 1/10 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.8 cm and set point A4.

A3A4 \u003d 14:10 + 0.8 \u003d 2.2 cm.

Divide the angle at point A3 in half, from point A3 along the dividing line of the angle, set aside 1/10 of the measurements of the half-girth of the neck minus 0.3 cm and set point A5.

A3A5 \u003d 14: 10 - 0.3 \u003d 1.1 cm.

Connect points A4, A5, A with a smooth concave line.

Back shoulder line.

From point A1 down, set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, (1.5 cm for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders) and set point P. Connect points A4 and P with a straight line on which

from point A4, measure the length of the shoulder plus 1.6 cm for the tuck and put point P1.

A4P1 \u003d 10.3 + 1.6 \u003d 11.9 cm.

Set aside 3.5 - 4 cm from point A4 to the right and set point O. Draw a vertical line from point O down, on which set aside 6 cm and set point O1. From point O to the right, along the line A4P1, set aside 1.6 cm and put point O2. Connect point O1 with a straight line to point O2, on which set aside the value of segment OO1 from point O1 and set point O3. This construction can be done using a compass (see Fig. 10).

By connecting points O3 and P1 with a straight line, we complete the design of the shoulder line.

From the point P down, set aside 1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm and put the point G

PG \u003d 32: 4 + 7 \u003d 15 cm.

Draw a horizontal line through point D to the left and right. Designate the point of intersection with the AN line - G1, the point of intersection with the armhole width line - G2, with the line BH1 - G3.

Back cutout.

Set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm from the point G upwards and set the point P2

GP2 = GP: 3 + 2 = 15: 3 + 2 = 7 cm.

Divide the corner at point G in half and, along the division line of the angle from point G, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and set point P3.

GP3 \u003d 9: 10 + 1.5 \u003d 2.4 cm.

Divide the width of the armhole GG2 in half and put a point G4. Connect the points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a smooth line. We get the armhole line of the back.

Front armhole cut.

From point G2 up, set aside 1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest plus 5 cm and put point P4.

G2P4 \u003d 32: 4 + 5 \u003d 13 cm.

From point P4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, on which set aside 1/10 measurements of the half-girth of the chest and put point P5.

32:10 = 3.2 cm.

From the point G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the value of the segment G2 P4 and set the point P6.

G2P6 \u003d G2P4: 3 \u003d 13: 3 \u003d 4.3 cm.

Connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.8 - 1 cm from the division point to the right, and mark this point with the number 1. Divide the angle at point G2 in half. From the point G2 along the division line of the corner, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and set the point P7.

G2 P7 \u003d 9: 10 + 0.8 \u003d 1.7 cm.

Connect points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 with a smooth line.

We have finished building the armhole in front.

Shelf neck cut.

From point G3 up along the line H1B, set aside 1/2 measurements of the half-girth of the chest plus 3.5 cm (for older girls, plus 2-2.5 cm) and put point B1.

G3V1 \u003d 32: 2 + 3.5 \u003d 19.5 cm.

From the point G2 along the line G2A2, set aside the value of the segment G3B1 and set the point B2. Connect points B1 and B2.

From point B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put point B3.

B1Bz \u003d 14: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.2 cm.

From point B1 down, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 2 cm and put point B4.

B1B4 \u003d 14: 3 + 2 \u003d 6.7 cm.

Connect points B3 and B4 with a dotted line and divide it in half.

From point B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm and put point B5

B1B5 \u003d 14: 3 + 1 \u003d 5.7 cm.

Connect points B3, B5, B4 with a smooth line. We get the front neck line.

From the point G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and put the point G6.

G3G6 \u003d 7 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.

From point G6, draw a perpendicular to the line B1B2, mark the intersection point B6.

Set aside 1 - 1.5 cm from point B6 down and put point B7. Connect point B7 with a straight line to point B3 and a dotted line to point P5.

From point P5 to the right along the dotted line, set aside a measurement of the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8.

10.3 - 2.8 - 0.3 = 7.2 cm.

Connect the points G6 and B8 with a straight line, on the continuation of which from the point G6 set aside a value equal to the segment G6B7, and set the point B9. Connect points B9 and P5 with a straight line.

(This construction can be done using a compass. From point G6, as from the center, we draw an arc through point B3 to the left, until it intersects with a straight line and set point B9). Choose the option convenient for you.

Side seam line.

From point G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and set point G5 (9: 3 \u003d 3 cm).

From point G5, lower the perpendicular to the bottom line, mark the intersection points with the waist, hips and bottom lines as T2, B2 and H2.

For determining common solution of tucks along the waistline, add 2 cm to the waist measurement, for older girls 1 cm (28 + 2 = 30 cm), then subtract this value from the width of the dress between points TT1 (38-30 = 8cm).

The size of the solution of the front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks along the waist line (8x0.25 = 2cm), the side 0.45 of the total solution (8x0.45 = 3.6cm),

back 0.3 total solution (8x0.3 = 2.4 cm).

To calculate the dress along the hip line, add 3 cm to the measure of the half-girth of the hips (for older girls 2 cm) for a free fit, subtract the width of the dress obtained when constructing the drawing between points BB1 (38 + 3-38 = 3 cm) from the resulting value.

Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (3:2 = 1.5 cm).

Set aside 1.5 cm from point B2 to the left and right and put points B3 and B4.

From point T2 to the left and right along the waist line, set aside half of the side tuck solution (3.6: 2 = 1.8 cm) and put points T3 and T4.

Connect points T3 and T4 with straight lines to point G5 and extend the line up to the armhole line.

Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with dotted lines, which you divide in half.

Set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the left and right and connect them with smooth lines to points T3 and B4, and, accordingly, T4 and B3.

Front waistline.

Set aside 1.5 cm from point T1 down and put point T5. Connect points T5 and T4 with a smooth curve.

Set aside 1.5 cm from point B1 down and put point B5. Connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth curve.

Divide the distance between the points GG1 in half, mark the division point as G7. From point G7 lower the perpendicular to the line BB1. Mark the points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips, respectively, T6 and B6. From point T6 to the left and right, set aside half of the solution of the back tuck (2.4: 2 \u003d 1.2 cm) and put points T7 and T8. Set aside 3 cm from point B6 up. Connect the resulting points.

Making a tuck on shelf.

From point G6 down draw a vertical line to the intersection with line B3B5. Mark the points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips, respectively, T9 and B7. From point T9 to the left and right, set aside half of the solution of the front tuck (2: 2 \u003d 1 cm) and put points T10 and T11. From point G6 down, and from point B7 up, set aside 4 cm and connect them to points T10 and T11.

The design of the side seam line.

Draw vertical lines down from points B3 and B4, mark the points of intersection with the bottom line as H3 and H4. If the dress should be extended, then set aside 3-5 cm from points H3 and H4 to the left and right and connect them with straight lines to points Bz and B4.

From H1, set aside 1.5 cm down and mark the point H5. Point H5 and H3 (and in the extended version, the lower point of the side seam 3) connect with a smooth curve. If the dress is extended to the bottom, it is necessary to correct the line of the bottom of the back. Set aside 1-1.5 cm from point H down, put point H6 and connect it with a smooth curve to the lower point of the side seam of the back 3.

All. The construction of the pattern is completed

Remind you that this is a dry drawing, a kind of frame from which you can model a style of any complexity. The simplest thing you can do yourself is a yoke on the bodice, or cut the dress along the waistline and gather the lower part of the dress (skirt), or make a frill along the bottom of the dress, etc.

In the next release we will build

In subsequent issues, we will learn how to model, and then we will begin to master the technology of tailoring.

I wish you all creative inspiration!

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

A bodice for a children's dress is quick and easy. Part 1.

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Good afternoon my dear mothers. Today we will be with you make a bodice for a children's dress. The bodice is the upper part of a cut-off dress - that is, a dress where the hem is cut separately, the bodice is separate and then the bodice is sewn to the hem. We will create with you one and only a bodice pattern - and then, based on it, we will sew with you a lot, many children's dresses with a detachable bodice.

You may be surprised by my statement that based on one patterns of the bodice, you can sew several dresses. Now below you will see evidence of my words in the form of photographs. And at the same time, using the same photographs, we will see what kind of bodices are on children's dresses:

The bodice is higher than the waist. We will get his pattern if we take the classic bodice pattern (we will learn to draw it in this article) and cut it off at a level above the waist line.

Most often we meet a bodice along the waist line - it is also modeled from a classic bodice pattern, like this:

Yes, the most common bodice is above the waistline or to the waistline. But it’s not in vain that today we will draw a pattern of a bodice that reaches right up to the hip line, because there are dresses with a bodice below the waist line:

And there are also dresses where the hem starts only at the hip line, that is, the upper part of the dress, our the bodice is extended to the very line of the hips , that's how this elegant prom dress has ( how to sew it elegant dress I already told in this master class).

As you can see same the pattern of the bodice will allow us to sew many different dresses and please our baby with a new thing sewn by mother's hands.

We have already made several one-piece dresses, and now having mastered the technique of constructing a bodice, we also have a bunch cutting models.

We make a pattern of a bodice for a children's dress.

Well... it's time to get down to business and create this pattern for a classic bodice for a baby dress. Especially for moms, I created a simplified way to create a bodice pattern.

We take measurements.

To build a pattern, we need take the following measurements(pic 1):

We get each measurement by clasping the baby with a centimeter

Merck T — at waist level,

Measure B - at the level of the hips(the most protruding part of the priests),

Measure G - at chest level(under armpits)

Measure Sh - at the base of the neck(The measuring tape runs at the very bottom of the neck - it lies at the base of the neck, as a string of beads would lie if it were exactly right next to the baby's neck).

I labeled these girth measurements with the initial letters B, T, D, W (hips, waist, chest, neck). For all calculations we need incomplete the magnitude of these girths - and only half – SEMI girths or whatever i called them HALF TIGHTS- half of the hips, half of the waist, etc. THEREFORE, WE IMMEDIATELY DIVIDE EVERY GIRTH BY 2 - AND GET HALF-GIRTH.

Back measurements:

merka s- the length of the back from the cervical protruding vertebra to the twine tied at the baby's waist (be sure not to be too lazy to tie the twine in this way, most likely you will find the level of the waist on the child's usually pot-bellied tummy) - this measurement does not need to be divided in half (this is not a girth) - it write in full, not in half.

Merck L- the width of the back at the level of the shoulder blades, measured from one freely hanging arm to the other.

Why this way

you will draw a pattern in 10 minutes.

We will draw the pattern very quickly and simply - because ...

1.) the whole pattern is inside the rectangle

2.) The pattern of the bodice consists of five lines - the neck line, the shoulder line, the armhole line, the waist line, the hip line

That is, we draw a rectangle, then draw 5 lines inside it - and you're done. 10 minutes of work and we have a professional bodice pattern that is suitable for all dresses.

So let's get started.

We draw a pattern.

We draw a rectangle inside which we will draw our pattern.

Rectangle Height - measure C + half measure C- this is the distance from the neck line to the hips (you can remember for the future that the distance from the cervical vertebra to the hip line in a person is always 1.5 measurements of the back - that is, measure C + half measure C)

Rectangle Width - half measure G+ 3 cm- i.e. half bust with an additional 3 cm for a loose fit (so that the dress does not dig into the body)

So, inside the resulting rectangle (Figure 2), we will draw the entire pattern of the bodice - from the shoulders to the hips. We will draw the pattern very quickly and simply - it only consists of five lines - the hip line, the waist line, the neck line, the shoulder line, the armhole line - and that's it.

We already have a hip line is the bottom side of the rectangle.

Waist line is easy to find - you need to measure down our measurement C from the top of the rectangle - (that is, the length of the back from the cervical vertebra to the waist), we measure this distance on both sides of the rectangle and draw a horizontal line) - Fig. 3 - so we found our waist line.

Finding the edges of the neck

We find the middle vertical axis of the pattern - that is, we divide the width of the rectangle in half and divide it in the middle with a vertical line - this center of the whole pattern and the center of our future neck (Fig. 4).

Now on both sides of the line set aside classic neckline . It is calculated like this:

Divide the half-girth of the neck by 3 + 0.5 cm. The resulting distance is set aside to the right and left of the center line - Fig. 5. - and mark this distance with dots. Here, we have found the width of the classic neckline.

But the points of the edges of the neck should be located a little higher - we slightly lift up- for this from the points we measure upwards 1/10 of the half-grip of the neck + 1 cm- and we raise the points to this distance (Fig. 6).

Draw the lines of the shoulders

Now from the same central point (from which we measured the neck in both directions) we will measure in both directions extreme borders of the shoulders - it's simple - we measure in both directions, half measure L. The points obtained are the extreme boundaries of the shoulders of our pattern (Fig. 7).

Now we remember that people have different types shoulders - sloping, high and normal.

From the point of the extreme boundaries of the shoulders, lay down the distance 2.5 cm for normal shoulders(1.5 cm for high shoulders or 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders) - fig. 10.

Hooray - the most tricky is already behind, now to draw a sloping shoulder line, you just need to connect the point of the high edge of the neck and the lower point on the line of the shoulders (Fig. 11). And so we drew the line of the shoulders.

And don’t be afraid that these shoulder lines on the pattern turned out to be so very sloping - that’s right, that’s how it should be. The lines of the shoulders on the pattern are always more inclined than the natural shoulders of the child. You don’t have to think: “Oh, some kind of strong slope turned out, my girl’s shoulders are not at all as sloping as they are on the pattern here, the author of the article has done something here.” It's okay, a tailor-made product with such sloping shoulders will perfectly match your child's shoulders when you put a tailor-made dress on him.

Draw the neckline

Now we will draw the neck line at the BACK and at the FRONT.

Back neck line in a classic pattern lies on the top line of our rectangle (Figure 10).

And the classic front neck deepens down the central axis by almost the same distance as to the right / left of the central axis (Fig. 11).

That is neck depth (classical) is calculated by the same formula: half measure W divided by 3 (i.e. equal to 1/3 of the half circumference of the neck)

To make the neckline symmetrical you can first draw the right side of the neck, then fold the pattern vertically in half, just along our centerline - and mirror our right side of the neck on the left (through carbon paper or piercing holes with a pin)

Finding the chest line

We need to find the chest line in order to draw the armholes. Because the armholes end exactly at the chest line. Without this chest line, we won't know to where exactly we need to draw these armholes - will there be a hole for the arms of sufficient size or will the armhole dig into the armpit of the child. Therefore, we find the chest line - and then we can be sure that the armhole lines will be perfect for our child's arms.

That is, the level of the chest line is the height of our future armholes.

The chest line (it is also the height of the armhole) is always calculated from the measurement of the half-girth of the chest - Divide the bust by 4 and add 7 cm. We measure the resulting distance down from the extreme point of the shoulder (Fig. 12).

Draw an armhole line.

All now we can boldly draw armhole line (arm holes) - from the shoulder down and smoothly round to the side of the rectangle along the chest line (Fig. 13).

I make a rounding to the armpit by hand and by eye. If you are not sure what you are drawing correctly, you can follow this armhole rounding rule: start smooth rounding at a distance of 2/3 of the armhole height - that is, 2/3 of the armhole height, the line just goes down vertically, and not reaching 1/3 to chest line begins its smooth rounding to the armpit.

In the FRONT part, the armhole usually bends more towards the central axis (Fig. 14). But if the dress model is sleeveless, then the front and back armholes can be the same in outline (just vertically down and rounding to the armpit).

To draw the armholes the same on the left and right you can do this: first draw the line of the right armhole, then fold the pattern vertically in half (along the centerline) - and mirror our right armhole line on the left (through carbon paper or piercing holes with a pin).

Draw the side lines + round the line of the hips

Here the patterns are almost ready - or rather, it is ready for those mothers whose girls eat well and they still do not have a waist. In your case, you don’t need to fit the dress - it will be cut in a straight line under the armhole line (that is, it will coincide with the sides of our rectangle) - Figure 15. And to be honest, all girls under 5-6 years old do not have a waist but have a round belly - This is the physiological norm. Therefore, the side lines on the bodice for this age are usually always straight and do not have a fit.

If your child has a significant difference between the measurements of the circumference of the hips and the circumference of the waist, then we will now reflect this difference on our pattern - Figure 16.

For example, let's say the hips are 70 cm and the waist is 62 cm - i.e. the difference between these values ​​\u200b\u200bis 8 cm. Then the waist line should be 8 cm shorter than the hip line on our pattern.

And in theory, we would need to remove 4 cm from the right and 4 from the left from the sides - but here we remember about the freedom of fitting and remove not 4, but only 3-2 cm - and we get a small waist bend, just for beauty .

And if your girl is already over 10 years old and has curly shapes with waist curves or she already has breasts, then you are welcome to my other

Now we must not forget to do the bottom line of the pattern - on a straight horizontal - and slightly round off- that is, down from the center line - measured 0.5 cm and drew a smooth roundness to both corners of the rectangle.

So, we just made a classic pattern with you (Fig. 17) - namely CLASSICAL, because the outlines of its neck and armholes are classic (the neckline is right under the child’s neck), the armholes are even on the child’s arm.

And now from this classic bodice pattern, every new time we will get a new and new bodice for the dress.

Each time for each new dress, we will take this finished bodice pattern and slightly modifying it to get a new bodice pattern just under the dress. All we will change is the neckline, armholes, and the length of the bodice itself (up to the waist, above or below the waist) - and each time we will get a new dress model with a new interesting bodice. Like in the picture below...

Good luck with your tailoring.

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site "".

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new the easy way(I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for building a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- But not very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And finally born new model(photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple pattern - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum armhole size. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I am all these simple rules ladies when we start to draw. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!