Scandinavian embroidery hardanger. Hardanger, lessons, hardanger embroidery. Openwork border on the edge

Hardanger - a kind of openwork embroidery. This embroidery got its name because of its Scandinavian roots, because in Norway there is Hardanger Bay, which is considered one of the largest in the world. This technique has existed for a long time, they say that it started its origin in ancient Persia or Egypt. Until now, needlewomen are arguing - is it Swedish or Norwegian embroidery, or does it have Florentine roots?

Now we will analyze this technique, and also, consider the schemes and description of the work. Often in this embroidery, you can find an eight-pointed star, it can also be found in Indian embroidery. But the name of this technique was invented in Norway. In the past, girls used to decorate their holiday costumes and Wedding Dresses. At the beginning of the twentieth century, such embroidery began to gain popularity around the world. Hardanger can decorate any interior. With this embroidery, many decorate pillows on the bed, tablecloths, as well as individual items of clothing and even holiday toys.

The original and unique hardanger embroidery, whose schemes have ancient techniques and rules, is an example of a counting surface. That is, the main highlight of embroidery is special stitches, groups.

And these groups create the main pattern. The simplest product that can be made using this technique is napkins. There are napkins different types, and using this embroidery, you can make them unique.

A hardanger is always created on a special fabric called uniform. This is either a fabric per 1 cm of weave, which has the same number of these threads along the longitudinal and transverse threads, or a universal canvas.

To understand the patterns and the work itself, you need to study the schemes in detail.

If you find it difficult to learn and understand everything, look for special lessons on this technique. This Scandinavian embroidery can be combined with different techniques such as embroidery, cross stitch and ribbon embroidery. When Scandinavian embroidery was in its infancy, this technique was only worked on white fabric with white threads. Now, in our century, the colors of fabric and thread are often combined. If you ask yourself again, what is a hardanger? Do you have an answer to this question, as written earlier, this is a type of counted embroidery.

What tools and materials do we need to work:

• Piece of fabric.
• Twisted threads for embroidery, you can take floss or iris.
• The thickness and type of thread will depend on the chosen fabric.
• Scissors with good ends.
• Disappearing marker for marking.
• Hoop.
• Special glue.
• Scheme.

As you can see, the main part necessary materials can be found by simply rummaging through your hamster supplies.

Gallery: hardanger embroidery (25 photos)

General rules at work

At the beginning of work, it is better to line the canvas, that is, with the help of a special marker, squares are created on the canvas along the grooves of the fabric, about 2 by 3 cm in size. Main groups of satin stitches should always consist of five stitches and be four cells high.

If the stitches of the previous row lie vertically, then the stitches of the new row should be embroidered horizontally. The first group of stitches is created according to the embroidery pattern.

Then from the end of the stitches of the previous group, stitches begin new group. To make the wrong side neat, you need to go to the right place for embroidery, then stretch the thread with a working needle under special stitches.

When the thread runs out, it must be brought inside out of the embroidery and fasten with linings as follows: the needle is lowered under three stitches of the satin stitch and the thread is pulled out, then in the opposite direction it is brought out after two stitches. The fastened ends of the threads can be lightly fixed with glue.

This technique contains a lot amount interesting ways to embroider, different cuts. In order to make them, threads of fabric are cut out and the transitions themselves are wrapped around different ways. And the cuts, that is, the holes obtained in the course of this case, have different names, depending on the type of their skin. Types of sheathing:

• Vignette.
• Maltese cross.
• Special grid.
• Pico.
• Cross.

The main differences between the hardanger technique

In books about this embroidery, the main difference is strictly spaced in size and number of stitches. The next important difference is embroidery direction. In addition, with this technique you can decorate absolutely the entire product. Let's move on to all the features of this style:

An important condition that must be observed when embroidery with this style, is that the fabric you have chosen must be with a uniform weave, because the main element of this technique is a four by four square.

Hardanger embroidery is an old Scandinavian technique. hand embroidery, named after a city on the southwest coast of Norway. It originated in the Middle East, and by the 17th century reached Europe and further north.

Hardanger has many related trends in embroidery: Cypriot lefkaritika, Italian punto antico and reticella, Russian lattice sewing.
Some elements traditional for Hardanger - a square, a rectangle, a cross - belong to the Assyrian and Egyptian traditions,
and the famous eight-pointed star - to Indian embroidery.

Traditionally, hardanger embroidery was an element of clothing and was used in the Norwegian national and wedding dress bunad as embroidery on an apron.
Later, in the 19th century, the technique was also used to decorate home textiles.

The hardanger style refers to countable types of embroidery and resembles familiar hemstitches. But hemstitching is more of a “marginal”, edging technique of embroidery, and hardanger can fill the entire space of the fabric and get delightfully beautiful patterns.

Quite often, hardanger is called a counting surface, and this name reflects the essence of the technique in the best possible way, because it is based on satin stitches, but strictly ordered in length and quantity.

Hardanger embroider on plain weave fabrics(those in which 1 cm has the same number of equity and transverse threads). This is an indispensable condition, because the main element of patterns in the hardanger technique is a square block of 4x4 threads.

For embroidery, fabric of 25-27 count is used mainly and threads such as Iris or PERLE for blocks and thinner ones (you can floss or thin Perle) for laces and laces.
Can also be embroidered , but it is more difficult to embroider with them - by clicking on this, more details are described in the supplement to the article.

LANGUAGE (loop) seam

Used to embroider the outline of the product, along which it will then be cut.
Sometimes a langet seam is used to give volume inside the embroidery.

We insert the needle from the inside right on the marking line at the beginning of the seam and pull the thread to the face,

leaving a tail up to 6-8 cm long on the inside (this tail will then be fixed, so it must be of such length that it can be inserted into the needle and fixed.)

From the starting point, we retreat one thread to the right along the marking line, rise above the marking by 4 threads up and make the first stitch, bringing the needle back to the marking line vertically so that the thread coming out of the fabric at the starting point is under the tip of the needle and pull the thread so that got the first stitch.
In general, the width of the langet seam is 4 threads, so we always go up 4 threads of fabric.

Again, we retreat one thread to the right and four up, insert the needle into the fabric and draw it out on the marking lines so that the tail of the thread is under the needle.

Thus, straight sections of the langet suture are sewn off.
The number of stitches in a splint suture is usually a multiple of 4+1 stitches.
This is because the hardanger is based on blocks of 4x4 threads, and so that all the threads of the fabric are fixed (turned out, as it were, between the embroidering thread) and make one more stitch.

So we got there to the first corner .
Here is the diagram of the corner, it is performed on a 4x4 thread section

First, I'll show you the scheme of sewing the corner

All corner stitches on this diagram converge at one point V, one cell is equal to one thread of fabric.
Having made the last, 28th, stitch, insert the needle again at the top point of this 28th stitch (point V in the diagram), and bring it out through 2 (two) threads to the right (point W in the diagram).

Made first corner stitch .

We again insert the needle at point V, and bring it out at the point, stepping back one thread to the right and one thread up (to get a diagonal line through one thread of fabric) - point X on the diagram.

Made second corner stitch .

Third corner stitch.
We insert the needle at point V, and bring it out at the point, stepping back one more thread to the right and one thread up (we got a diagonal of three points through one thread of fabric) - point Y on the diagram.
From the marking line, this point should be 2 threads of fabric higher.

And the last, final stitch of the corner.
We again insert the needle at point V, and bring it out at the point, stepping back two more threads upwards in relation to the last point (we got a straight stitch for 4 threads of fabric perpendicular to the already sewn straight section) - point Z on the diagram.
From the marking line, this point should be 4 threads of fabric higher.

Got the first corner.
From point V we have 5 stitches: two straight and three diagonal.

Now according to the scheme 5 stitch straight section .
But since we already made the first straight stitch when we finished our corner, we need to make 4 more straight stitches.

As a result, we should have 5 straight stitches, and between them 4 threads of fabric. And again a corner.

We completely repeat all the steps that we did for the first corner (I won’t describe it in words, I’ll just show it on some more pictures)

After completing the second corner, we sew a straight section of 5 stitches (in total).

Our back should look like this.

It is clearly seen here that the threads all go smoothly, nowhere is there a thread that has crawled out beyond the boundaries of a 4-thread seam.
On the inside, it is also very good to control yourself when you embroider a corner.
Here you can see that the stitches of the corner create a diagonal line of three points.
I always control myself in the same way, turning the work inside out if I doubt the correctness of the needle output on the corner.

And if suddenly somewhere an error will occur and the needle will go to the wrong point, it will be imperceptible on the face or it will look like a loosely tightened loop of the seam, then on the inside all the flaws are very clearly visible.

We approached the place on the diagram with the transition from one straight section to another with a 90-degree turn clockwise (circled in red on the diagram)

Pull the working thread down a little so that the point of the last exit of the needle to the face is visible, count 4 threads of fabric straight up from this point, insert the needle at this point and bring it out at the same point where the thread comes out of the fabric.

When do this first stitch, pull the working thread a little to the left up so that the resulting loop lies evenly and the seam is neat (pull as in the photo)

Well, now we look at the diagram and sew off all the corners of the wing, his outfit, etc. according to the scheme

Sooner or later, any thread ends and you need to start a new one.

My advice - do not sew the thread to the very end, leave a tail of about 6-8 cm so that it can be easily fixed on the wrong side.
And another moment.
Better and easier to type new thread on a straight section of the langet seam than on the rounded corners or with a "right turn".
Therefore, we look at the tail, and if it is not very long, then it is better to leave an extra couple of centimeters of the tail and introduce a new thread in a straight section than to dodge at the corners later.

So.
The tail in the needle is about 6-8 cm. Having made the last stitch with this thread, we leave it on the face without removing the needle yet.

We take a new thread, insert it into the second needle, and insert this needle from the inside out onto the face in the next hole in the fabric, i.e. stepping back from the hanging old thread one thread of fabric to the right.

Then, pulling a new thread to the face and leaving its tail 6-8 cm long on the wrong side, it retreats from this point one thread to the right, we rise 4 threads up and make the first stitch with a new thread (this happens in exactly the same way as at the beginning langet suture).

We sew 2-4 stitches with a new thread, put it aside, take a needle with an old thread and insert its tip into the first loop formed by a new thread (and a free space glows above this loop, as if a stitch was missed).

Holding the tail of the new thread on the wrong side with your fingers, we insert the needle with the old thread at the point at the top of the seam, which is 4 threads of fabric away from our loop and take the old thread to the wrong side.

There should be two tails: below from the new thread, above - from the old one. We tighten both tails a little so that both the loop and the stitch are neat and evenly lie in a row.

This is how our side should look like.
We remove the needle from the old thread and do not hide it far, it will come in handy for us the next time we change the thread.

Thus, we sew the entire circuit according to the scheme.

If you did everything correctly and did not make a mistake anywhere with counting the stitches, then the contour should converge thread to thread according to the pattern, and there should not be extra or missing stitches anywhere.

We finish the contour in the same way as we introduce a new thread, only there will be one working thread, and at the very end we insert the needle into the very first loop with which our contour began.

Then we insert the needle at a point above the loop (it will already be occupied by the stitches of the corner) and take the thread to the wrong side. Here is what we should get as a result (along with the wrong side)

Now we need to fix all the tails so that the wrong side is neat.

We take the first pair of tails.
We put a needle on one of them and draw it under a few stitches to the right, while the tails themselves, as it were, cross each other so that there is no void in this place.

We pulled the needle out from under the stitches and make a small (1-2 threads) step with the needle back as a backstitch seam is made, and again draw the needle under a few stitches to the right, tighten the loop and bring the thread up and cut the tail.

We repeat all the same actions for the second tail, only in the other direction - to the left

This is how we should get the wrong side

We examined the LANGET (loop) seam, which is used to embroider the outline of the product.

Now let's start decorating the angel skirt and we will do it with satin blocks.

Hardanger is a type of counted openwork embroidery. The name of this direction of creativity has Scandinavian roots. It is named after Hardanger Bay, which is located in Norway and is the longest in the world. This technique is very ancient. It is believed that it originated in ancient Persia or Egypt. It has not yet been determined exactly where this direction came from. Today we will talk about the technique of this embroidery, the schemes and description of the work will be clear even to beginners.

The eight-pointed star, which is often found in such embroidery, is typical of Indian embroidery in general. But the name of the embroidery is still Norwegian, because since the 17th century such embroidery has been developed in Norway. Women decorated their National costumes, Wedding Dresses.

Since the beginning of the 20th century, such embroidery began to spread around the world. Hardanger is able to decorate any interior. With the help of such embroidery, you can decorate pillows on the sofa, tablecloths, as well as items of clothing and even Christmas decorations. Unusual hardanger embroidery, the schemes of which have well-established techniques and rules, is an example of a counting surface. That is, the main embroidery technique is satin stitches, groups. These smooth groups form the main pattern.

Materials and tools

Hardanger is always performed on the so-called uniform fabric. This is either a special fabric, for 1 cm of weaving of which the same number of these threads along the longitudinal and transverse threads, or canvas.

Hardanger embroidery: schemes

Since it is not given to every person to develop models, they are necessarily necessary when embroidering with the hardanger technique.

They can be found on the Internet, or you can purchase special literature on this type of needlework. Hardanger can be combined with other embroidery techniques such as cross stitch or ribbon embroidery.

When the technique was in its infancy, it was embroidered on white fabric with white threads. Now, in modern world, often there is a combination of the color of fabric and thread, they can be taken in contrasting shades. So, after all, hardanger - what is it? As mentioned above, this is a type of counted embroidery. It will require the following tools and materials:

• A piece of fabric (canvas or other similar fabric);
• Threads. It is recommended to take floss, or "iris". However, the thickness and type of thread depends on the thickness of the fabric itself;
• Needle. It is better to take a special tapestry needle that does not split the threads;
• Scissors with very thin ends that close to the very tips;
• Disappearing marker;
• hoop;
• Glue;
• Scheme

Hardanger embroidery: a description of the technique

Embroidering hardanger: the lessons reviewed here contain the basic rules for embroidering satin stitch groups:

One of them is that before starting work it is convenient to line the canvas, that is, with the help of a disappearing marker, squares are drawn on the canvas along the grooves of the fabric, approximately 2 by 2 cm in size.

The main groups of satin stitches always consist of five stitches and are four cells high.

If the stitches of the previous row lie vertically, then the stitches of the next row must be sewn horizontally. So, the first group of stitches is embroidered with satin stitch in accordance with the embroidery pattern.

Now from the end of the stitches of the previous group, the stitches of the next group begin.

In order for the wrong side to be neat, it is necessary to move to the right place for embroidering by stretching the thread with a working needle under the satin stitches.

When the thread ends, it must be brought inside out of embroidery and secured with underlays in this way: the needle is passed under 3 stitches of the surface and the thread is pulled out, then it is brought out in the opposite direction after 2 stitches. The fixed ends of the thread can be additionally fixed with glue.

In addition to satin stitch groups, the hardager technique contains many additional embroidery methods and different cuts. To create them, threads of fabric are cut out and the transitions themselves are twisted in one of several ways. And the cuts, that is, the holes obtained in this way, have different names, depending on the type of their skin. For example, vignette, Maltese cross, lattice, pico, cross, etc. Some photos and diagrams for them are presented below.

Hardanger embroidery is an original and unusual type of embroidery that includes counting skills and fine arts. When embroidering, fabrics with a pronounced structure are used, and patterns are formed by pulling, cutting fabric weave threads and laying satin stitches. A lot of beautiful decor elements, not only clothes, but also home interior items, can be created using the hardanger technique. The master classes for beginners provided in this article will help needlewomen easily master this art.

Necessary materials

For those who decide to do this type of embroidery and do not know where to start, it will be useful to learn more about the materials and principles of work.

For this technique, you need a fabric from which you can easily pull out the threads. good option there will be an embroidery canvas with a large or medium density mesh of weave, that is, about six to seven threads per centimeter. It is usually embroidered with threads for beads number 5 (for satin stitches) and number 8 - to create a brid and other airy elements.

If the weave of the fabric is denser, then it is better to buy thread number 3, and for other stitches - number eight. It is desirable to select the color of the threads for the fabric.

If you are using a ready-made pattern, be sure to read what fabric it is for, because if you choose a different fabric, the size of the pattern may automatically change.

Each cell of the scheme corresponds to a hole between the threads of the fabric, the length of the lines corresponds to the length of the stitches. To begin with, the control contours of the motif are embroidered, and then the internal pattern. The beginning of embroidery of individual elements is indicated by a single or double arrow, and a repeat (repeating pattern) is located between the arrows.

The last stitch in a vertical row and the first stitch in a horizontal row have a common needle entry point, as in the photo:

At the corners, the stitches also have one entry point and diverge from it in different directions.

When embroidering "eyes", the stitches go in a circle from a common point, while they are slightly tightened to widen the hole in the center.

Trimming the fabric inside the pattern is done with small scissors with sharp tips.

Cushion for needles and pins

This pretty pincushion will look great on any needlewoman's shelf, and can also become a good gift for a grandmother or a friend - an embroiderer.

For its manufacture you will need:

• fabric with a pronounced weave structure, for example, dense linen or canvas - the basis for embroidery with medium-sized cells;
• embroidery needle with a wide hole;
• threads "iris" or "mulina" in several additions of blue and red shades;
• small piece of ribbon light shade and a few decorative beads - to your taste.

For convenience in work, it is first necessary to mark the fabric web. To do this, we will make a large knot and pierce the fabric as far as possible from the center of the future pattern. Next, you need to embroider vertically five stitches four cells high or threads of the canvas (depending on the chosen fabric). Then we skip four cells and again embroider five stitches. Thus, you need to embroider the side of the square of the desired size completely.

Move to the other side of the square and repeat the process. When the first square row is completed, you can proceed to the second. The principle of execution is the same, but here the stitches will not be located vertically, but horizontally. The thread must be wound under the stitches in one direction, and then through the thread in the other. Next, embroider the corners. We introduce the thread into the center, then into the corner of a small square, again into the center - we make a stitch through one cell. With the help of such stitches we fill the entire space of the square. Along the perimeter near the stitches, you need to very carefully make cuts in the fabric.

From the holes formed, you need to pull the threads. If the fabric is starched, then at first the process can go tight. The threads are taken out first in one direction, then in the other, to end up with a lattice. Then we fix the knot and bring the thread to the left of the lattice, wrap around all the threads of the lattice, make the transition under the new ones and wrap it around again. After that, we go under the column on the wrong side. The needle enters the center of the column and makes punctures to the middle in turn on the right and left. Thus we sheathe all the columns. The resulting square can be decorated with a floral stitch and a stitch imitating a machine stitch. We connect the embroidered canvas with the fabric, sew the corners and stuff it with foam rubber or cotton wool. We attach the ribbon and decorate with beads. The needle bar is ready for use!

The hardanger technique is used not only to decorate clothes, but also to give a kind of zest to the interior of a home. It can be a variety of napkins, tablecloths, bedspreads and pillows. Here are some examples of such embroidered works:

Perfect, for example, canvas, which can be with a more or less large mesh of weaves. For beginners more suitable canvas with about 6-7 threads per 1 cm.

Hardanger is embroidered, as a rule, with beaded threads: No. 5 for satin stitches (for counting stitches) and No. 8 for brid, air loops, back-to-the-needle stitches, etc.

Attention: threads should always be matched to the fabric.

For example, if you embroider less than 6 threads per 1 cm on the canvas, then it is better to take beaded threads No. 3 for the counting surface, and No. 8 for the remaining stitches.

If you are embroidering finished scheme, then be sure to read in the instructions for which fabric the embroidery is intended, because if you take another fabric for this embroidery, the size of the model will automatically change.

Hardanger is embroidered according to the counting scheme. Each cell in the diagram is equal to a hole between the threads on your fabric. The stroke height determines the stitch height. Embroidery starts from the outer edges, which are embroidered with a langet stitch (the thread lies under the needle). This outer row and at the same time the second row (the control one, as a rule, these are counting stitches) are performed around the entire work, along all sections, until complete readiness, and only after that they begin to perform internal motifs.

The beginning of embroidery of individual elements is indicated on the diagram by an arrow - single or double. Rapport (repeating pattern) runs from arrow a to arrow b.

Basic stitches

On 4 threads of fabric, they are sewn alternately vertically and horizontally, 5 stitches each. The last stitch of a vertical row and the first stitch of a horizontal row share the same needle insertion point.

Corner embroidery

First, 5 vertical stitches are sewn on 4 threads of fabric, then 5 diagonal stitches are sewn from the same needle insertion point as the last vertical stitch. Then, from the same needle insertion point, the first stitch of the horizontal row is sewn (the entire first element = 5 stitches per 4 threads of fabric). This means that from one needle insertion point at the corner, 1 vertical, 5 diagonal and 1 horizontal stitches are performed alternately.

fabric cutting

With small scissors () with sharp blades inside the motif, they are cut one by one and 4 threads of fabric are left. At the edges of the embroidery, the fabric is cut close to the stitches.

Decorative stitches

Eyes "Madeira"

For 2 threads of fabric, stitch 16 times in a circle from one point of the center, while pulling the thread so that a small hole is formed in the center - an eye.

Eyes "Asterisk"

Embroider on 4 x 4 threads of fabric one straight and one diagonal cross. At the same time, pull the thread in the same way as when making the Madeira eyes, see above.

Double stitch "back of the needle"

It is carried out diagonally on 2 threads of fabric. This is a floor stitch - underlays for the top stitches of embroidery in order to embroidered motif was more convex and plastic. With this stitch, it is convenient to embroider corners with straight stitches in one step (of which there are a great many in hardanger).

The first 3 photos show the process of embroidering one of the corners, then the stitches are sewn in a straight line to the next corner (4th photo).

Back-to-needle stitches are sewn in parallel rows, the needle is inserted in one row, then a stitch is sewn, after which the needle is inserted in a parallel row at the needle exit of the previous stitch of the parallel row. So rows are embroidered stitch by stitch until the next corner, where the direction of insertion of the needle changes first vertically, then obliquely.

Darning stitch

Wrap around as when darning, 2 pairs of threads from the middle up, again to the middle and then down and again to the middle, etc.

Mesh wrap

Every 4 pairs of threads of the brid (the remaining threads of the fabric after pulling the mesh, see "Openwork border around the edge") are wrapped around with a darning stitch in one step so that the wraps are tight enough.

Pico

For a picot in the mesh window, it is necessary to wrap the bridle only halfway with a darning stitch, then lay the thread up in a loop and again draw the thread to the middle from the back side, while not tightening the knot that appears. Repeat the same on the other side of the breeze.

Filling the mesh windows with air loops (“spiders”)

When the mesh window brid is 2-thirds entwined with a darning stitch, insert a needle from half of the brid to the left into the finished brid, while the thread lies under the needle, stretch the thread. Repeat the same up to the right. Finish the last stitch with wrong side in half of the breeches and then wrap the breeches completely with darning stitches.

Openwork border on the edge

After filling the edge with satin stitches of 5 horizontal and 5 vertical stitches, 4 threads are alternately pulled along the edge and 4 threads are left. Loose threads - brids (at the corners and in front of the stitches they must be fixed with a glue stick for textiles) are gradually wrapped around with a darning stitch, while doing 7 langet stitches along the edge at the corners.

Assembly

Cut off the embroidery allowances close to the embroidery, fix on the wrong side with a textile glue stick.

Photo: BurdaStyle
The material was prepared by Elena Karpova