The correct sleeve length for men's clothing. How a jacket should fit - a guide for men on how to choose the right size jacket Cuffs should protrude from under the jacket

Appearance a business person is his calling card. By the way you look, your partners and clients can conclude what a professional you are. After all, whatever one may say, they are met anyway by clothes.

But buying a presentable business suit is half the battle. The most difficult thing is to choose a jacket, trousers, shirt and accessories so that they perfectly emphasize your style and status.

Below you will find several practical advice in this regard, as well as a useful infographic that will help you choose a suit for your figure.

1. General view. After putting on the suit, take the most natural position for yourself. You should not pull in your stomach and straighten your shoulders - you should see how the suit will sit in everyday life, and not in front of a mirror in a fitting room. Then raise your hands up, to the sides, walk a little. If trousers or a jacket hinder your movements, then you missed the model or size.

2. Shoulders. The shoulders of the jacket should not hang down and wrinkle. The sleeve seam should start exactly where the shoulder ends. If it hangs from the shoulder or, on the contrary, creates a “wave”, then the jacket is either too big or too small for you.

3. Pants. The fit of your pants should match the shape of your hips. There are several nuances here. Firstly, the waist line should always be in its place, regardless of whether you are sitting or standing. Secondly, the folds of the trousers should match the shape of the body - when you are just standing, the trousers should not wrinkle either in front or behind. Thirdly, trousers should not “stick” too much (in hipster style) to the hips - it will be uncomfortable to sit, and others will be aware of which underwear you prefer. Fourth, the step line should be high enough so that there is no sagging. Otherwise, the “harem pants effect” will be created. Pants with a low armhole, of course, have the right to life, but not in a business suit.

4. Pants length. Trousers are too long if the trouser leg "lies" on the boot, forming a large fold. Trousers are too short if the leg does not touch the shoes and the socks are visible. Trousers of the correct length, if the cuff of the leg lies a little on the boot, forming a barely noticeable elegant fold. Remember: if your size is not available, it is better to buy trousers a little longer - they can be folded in the atelier.

5. Buttons. To check if your jacket is small in girth, stand in front of a mirror and fasten one top button. A well-fitting single-breasted jacket has lapels and hems that fit snugly together, and the button closes loosely with no tension. If the jacket is small for you, then an ugly fold in the shape of the letter “X” will form on your stomach, from under which the shirt will peek out from above and below, and the button will bristle, as if it is about to come off. If the jacket is too big for you, then the floors will overlap, like a wrap dressing gown.

6. Sleeve length. The golden rule for the ratio of the length of the sleeve of a jacket and the length of a shirt sleeve is 1.5 cm. This is how the shirt cuff should “peep out” from under the jacket. If the cuff is completely hidden, then the sleeve of the jacket is too long; if it is completely visible, it means that the sleeve is too short. When it comes to shirts with short sleeves, to determine the ideal sleeve length, focus on the wrist joint. The sleeve of the jacket should be slightly longer than the crook of the wrist.

7. Jacket length. The jacket should be long enough to cover the curves of the buttocks, and short enough to show the line of the legs as much as possible. There are two ways to determine the ideal jacket length. First: measure the length along the back from the collar to the floor, and then divide the result by 2. Second: use the hands as a “ruler”. To do this, you need to lower them at the seams (without stretching or straining on purpose) - the jacket should end approximately in the middle of the palm. However, this method has an "error" - the accuracy of the measurement is highly dependent on the individual anatomical features of a person.

8. Collar. The collar of the jacket should fit snugly against the collar of the shirt, which, in turn, should ideally wrap around the neck. Ideally, that is, do not "strangle" and do not "hang out". Stand sideways to the mirror and look at the collar. If the collar is pulled back or wrinkles form under it, then this jacket is not suitable for you. The reasons may be different - the wrong size, does not fit in the shoulders, etc.

The following infographic will help visualize the described tips.

Clothing should correspond to the figure not only in volume, but also in length. However, the length is considered by many to be less important, but in vain. If your jacket fits perfectly in the chest, but at the same time its sleeve reaches the fingers, you look sloppy and ridiculous in it. It's like taking something off someone else's shoulder. Sleeve length matters a lot! How to determine right size? Let's figure it out.

Correct shirt sleeve length

There is a classic rule: with the arm down, the length of the shirt sleeve should reach the root of the thumb. That's what they write in all the manuals for elegant men.

What is the "root of the thumb"? Raise your finger up (gesture "class!"). The top of the angle between the wrist and finger will be just that very point. This is about 1 cm down from the thinnest area of the wrist.

Further, the palm expands, so the sleeve with the correct girth of the cuff does not slide down. An unmistakably sized cuff rests on your wrist, and you can slip one finger (or two if you're wearing a watch) between it and your hand. The cuff should not be tight around the wrist!

When the sleeve is unbuttoned, its length can reach almost the middle of the palm. A small margin is acceptable. However, too long a sleeve is a mistake. It should not fit on the hand with many folds.

Correct jacket sleeve length

With the arm lowered, the shirt cuff should peek out from under the jacket by about 1-1.5 cm, but not more than 2 cm.

Since the shirt cuff reaches the root of the thumb, the jacket sleeve should end 1-2 cm above this point.

This rule is relevant for both classic suit and sports (club) jackets.

A conservative option - the cuff peeks out 1 cm or a little less. Modern style - the cuff peeks out almost 2 cm.

If a man has excessively long and large hands, he should prefer the first option, that is, leave the sleeve longer. Otherwise, the hands will look even more disproportionate. In such cases, it is even permissible for the cuff to peek out only half a centimeter. This is not a crime against style. A "crime" is a sleeve that completely hides the cuff.

If the jacket sleeve is longer than necessary, the suit looks too big. If the cuff of the shirt peeks out more than 2 cm, it seems that the man dressed in the department for schoolchildren.

Correct coat sleeve length

The function of the coat is to protect from the cold, so its sleeve must be long enough. Ideally, it slightly overlaps the shirt - by about 1 cm. Consider gloves: when the arms are lowered, the sleeve of the coat should cover their upper edge. This length is classic.

It is not a stylish mistake if the cuff of a shirt or sweater (not a jacket!) peeks out from under the sleeve of the coat. This is acceptable, although not very desirable.

Much worse when the coat sleeve is too long. The middle of the palm is the maximum (and this is already a bit long). If you want to look solid and elegant - do not be too lazy to bring the coat to the atelier and shorten the sleeve to an acceptable level.

This is true not only for coats, but also for raincoats, jackets, sheepskin coats and other outerwear without cuffs.

Among my acquaintances there are people who profess the principle of least resistance when it comes to their wardrobe. And the choice between a T-shirt and a shirt is invariably decided not in favor of the latter. The reason is banal laziness and underestimation of the advantages of one's own style. A T-shirt is easier and faster to iron and there is no need to fasten the buttons (: - this is a fact. And often it is appropriate. However, in many cases, I think such people lose points when they neglect the shirt. Sooner or later, a man, especially when he ceases to be a teenager, begins to understand the full power of this piece of clothing.Unfortunately, not everyone has even minimal knowledge in this area, they do not understand what types of men's shirts and collars exist, how to identify correct shirt size whether you always need to refuel and much more. Let's try to fill these gaps today.

A bit of history

It is interesting that initially the men's shirt belonged to underwear, and it was unthinkable to appear in society in one shirt. Others could observe only a small part of the collar and a piece of the cuff. This state of affairs took place for quite a long time until the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Even in our time, you can find men of conservative upbringing who ask permission from a woman to take off her jacket in her presence. Also, it is difficult to imagine the president of the country or other high-ranking person at an official reception without a jacket.

In everyday life, the shirt is often in sight, and knowing more about it will not be superfluous.

Types of men's shirts

There are two main types: classic and sporty. We need to know this in order not to accidentally put on a shirt with a business suit, which is not intended for this. And vice versa: avoid wearing a formal top with jeans, for example. So what's the difference?

classical

The fabric is softer, the weaving is thinner. Examples of fabrics that are used in production: twill, pinpoint, royal oxford - all, of course, from cotton, no synthetics.
The collar should be tighter. This is mainly due to the fact that a shirt and tie are almost always worn together when we are talking about a formal style. In order for the collar to keep its shape, use special plates that are inserted inside.
More conservative colors. First of all, white is for special occasions or a strict dress code. And the second most common is blue. If you want to learn more about color combinations, read the article.
If there is a drawing, it is small. You rarely see a classic shirt in a large thick cage or strip, while in a sports one you often see it. How to mix patterns in clothes, you can find out in the article about.
The bottom of the formal shirt has a more curved shape.
On a classic shirt, there are no pockets at all, or there is only one. And it must be empty. No pens or cell phones.

Sports

The materials used in the production of sports shirts are a little rougher, stronger. It can be a simple oxford, chambray, flannel, denim. By the way, the latter, denim, did not remain in the eighties at all, and the fashion for them has been preserved in our time. Don't be afraid to wear a denim shirt with jeans, as long as the bottom is darker. Do not forget .
A much larger range of colors, and the patterns are bolder and more varied.
If you see epaulettes, decorative clasps, more pockets, then you definitely have a sports style shirt in front of you.

Types of men's shirts by type of cut - fitted and loose

If you have an imperfect figure and a stomach, I will not insist here that you devote more time to sports and moderate nutrition, although I should have. Just buy a shirt with a traditional cut.

Are you the owner of a toned torso and no problems with being overweight? Then for you men's fitted shirt. In turn, fitted shirts are divided into narrow (slim) and very narrow (extra slim). It should be noted that this division is not absolute and depends on the company - a fitting in the store is necessary.

In any case, you should choose a shirt without excess material from the sides. See below for the correct size.

How should a shirt fit?

Shirt sleeve length

The main two things you need to know about yourself when purchasing a shirt are neck circumference and sleeve length. They just need to be measured and recorded. It is on these parameters that the dimensions are based. should be such as to reach the beginning of the joint of the thumb, while completely covering the wrist. And even in the bent position of the arm, the wrist should not open excessively.

Collar

The golden rule applies here. One or two fingers (whichever is comfortable) should fit between the neck and the inside of the collar. However, remember (this also applies to sleeves) that the true size of the shirt is established only after several washes.

As for the type of collar, there are innumerable ones, and here I will not go into depth. For wearing with a tie, I would recommend one of the most optimal - semi-spread.

Unlike the "shark", it is more versatile: not too conservative and not trendy; suitable for most face types.

Shoulder seams

Do I need to tuck in my shirt?

If it is a classic or, the answer is obvious - it is necessary. In other cases, it is a matter of taste, image and your mood. It is absolutely certain that tuck in a sports shirt not necessary.

correct mens shirt length

Another question is what should be the correct length in this case. My advice is the middle of the back pocket of the jeans. The following photo is the wrong length:

on the left - too short, on the right - too long shirt

It is also allowed to wear a loose shirt under a sweater. Personally, I don't like these bows. Some kind of sloppy look is obtained.

controversial view, what do you think?

Again, this is a matter of personal preference, and modern street fashion looks at many things of this kind indulgently. However, there are many good examples:

T-shirt under the shirt

If these two items menswear They come in a pair, the shirt can be left unbuttoned. Especially this combination looks good if the shirt is flannel and has a pattern in a large cage.

And the last tip for today:

Do not save much - this is my belief. It is better to buy inexpensive jeans. In my experience, the quality of a shirt is directly related to the price. And it's really that element of your appearance that plays a key role in maintaining your reputation as a person with taste.

Even more interesting materials in our groups.

The men's jacket as a piece of clothing remains the most versatile and necessary element our wardrobe. We can wear it in any weather: cold, hot - there are always a lot of fabric options that will be appropriate and comfortable for a certain temperature. For this reason, every man probably has at least one sports jacket in his closet. If not, we highly recommend adding it to your upcoming shopping list. For the first one, dark blue is quite suitable because of its exceptional versatility. About that, there was a separate article. And today we will give some tips on what requirements a well-fitted copy should meet. Simply put, How should a jacket fit?.

In most guides on how to find the right blazer or jacket size for a suit, you'll find strict recommendations about sleeve length, shoulder width, chest fullness, and the length of the jacket itself. The phrase is popular: “the jacket should sit like a glove” (that is, tightly fit the figure). All these rules work in most cases, however there are nuances.

For example, talking about jacket length, the most common advice: the bottom edge should be at the level of the knuckles of the hand. Can we blindly apply this rule? Probably not. There is a difference between styles men's jackets and costumes. This rule applies to the formal traditional:

But what about modern cropped jackets?

As we can see, this rule does not apply here.

Thus, the length of the jacket can vary from style. Not to mention that everyone's arm length is different.

You can also find advice that at the back, the jacket should completely cover the back. Again, this is not always the case. It would be more accurate to say that the jacket should be long enough to cover the buttocks, and at the same time open the line of the legs as much as possible.

Balance in body proportions is important here. And one of the tasks of clothing is to hide the shortcomings of our physique. As for the jacket, it is considered harmonious when the lower edge of the jacket divides the distance from the collar to the floor approximately in half. Thus, be careful: too long a jacket will visually shorten your legs.

Further, when we speak about shoulder width, the basic rule is that the shoulders of the jacket should end exactly where yours ends. However, one must not forget about individual features figures. If you have too narrow and sloping shoulders, it would be wise to choose a jacket slightly wider and at the same time be sure to be stiff in the shoulders.

Chest Width usually should be such that the palm slides easily inside, but not the fist. And this is correct in most cases. But again, not always. Many people prefer a little more chest space. And yet they look elegant.

Concerning sleeve length, then there are quite reliable guidelines. First, remember the point on your arm below which (when the arm is lowered) the sleeve should not be. It's quite specific place, which has its scientific biological name:

Most often, the length of a jacket sleeve reaches only the bone on the wrist, and then the shirt cuff peeps out:

So if we're wondering How should a jacket fit?, then it is impossible not to take into account the style and, accordingly, silhouette. It is these two concepts - the correct size of the jacket and the silhouette - that are inextricably linked. Knowing clearly what you want from the silhouette - narrow waist or not, wide shoulders or natural, a cropped jacket or a little longer - you will easily find your right size.

At the same time, there are details that do not depend on the model or fashion, but are no less important. You need to remember them when choosing a jacket in a store or taking a job from a tailor.

How should a jacket fit: the most common problems

Sleeve base and collar.

This is perhaps the most difficult part and the most common defect in poorly cut jackets. Ideally, there should be no indentations or folds at the top of the sleeve, and the collar should fit snugly around the neck. You can see these flaws in the photo below.

The place of the buttoned button.

Often in this place the fabric is stretched excessively, forming folds in the form of the letter X. Sometimes this is done purposefully in accordance with trends. modern fashion, but most often this is a sign that the jacket is too tight for you at the waist. Please note that this shortcoming is absent in the following example.

Inaccurate back.

In addition, the back can also be a problem area. Unsightly folds and tension at the waist, shoulders and under the collar. A well-fitting jacket should be free from these problems and look crisp and even.

Sleeves.

You can often see wrinkles on the sleeves if it is not sewn on properly. Here is an example of such a problem:

splines.

A well-fitted jacket has vents that fit close to the body. Make sure the vents of your jacket are similar to those in the picture.

Balance.

This includes primarily the balance of the lengths of the front and back, as well as the left and right. There are two schools, two views on what proportions should be in the front of the jacket and the back. Some tailors are of the opinion that the front should be slightly longer than the back of the jacket. Others believe that they should be equal. In our examples, we are dealing with the second school. Another aspect is the balance of left and right. Here, fortunately, there are no two opinions: both left and Right side must be aligned with each other.

Picking up a ready-made jacket or suit in the store, and stopping at the most the right size, do not be lazy and try on one or two more copies of the same size. With a high degree of probability, they will sit a little differently. Or have one or another of the disadvantages described above. Carefully inspect it from all sides and make sure that everything is in order, and only after that go to the checkout.

This was a brief instruction on how the jacket should fit. Remember that the right size is the alpha and omega male style. Happy shopping!

Even more interesting materials in our groups.

How to choose the right jacket? and got the best answer

Answer from Evgeny Petrov[newbie]
It is generally accepted that average duration life men's suit- Approximately 6 years. The habit of wearing things for a long time is characteristic of most men - they are much less likely than women to update their wardrobe. Perhaps that is why the need to purchase a new suit is very difficult for them. Such a purchase is most often made together with a wife, sister, mother, whose advice, and sometimes choice, is decisive. The question of for what purpose it is necessary to buy a suit should be decided in advance.
If you want to buy a casual suit - the task is one. It can be combined, i.e. made from different fabrics, matching each other in color, texture, classic or sports style. The so-called "club" style has gained popularity again. Blue or black color of the jacket, metal buttons, bright emblem are the main attributes of this style. A formal business suit should not be very fashionable in terms of cut and details, as it usually lasts more than one season. Recall that the color scheme of fashionable men's clothing does not include open, but complex colors: grayish-brown, dark blue, all shades of gray of different saturation, of course, black for the evening. Fabrics with a textured surface or finely patterned are fashionable. Quite popular are multi-colored tweeds, fabrics with a herringbone pattern, classic checks, plain flannels.
It will be easier to choose a suit by size if you know exactly the main measurements of the figure. For example, the marking label attached to the suit says: 182-100-82-height, bust and waist. Consider the following recommendations, which exist regardless of mode. If your height does not exceed 176 cm, you should refrain from: a suit made of fabric with an active cage; a combined suit with a sharp contrasting combination of jacket and trousers fabrics; from a double-breasted suit; jacket on a yoke, with a strap on the back or two slots.
When going to the store for a purchase, put on the shirt that you will wear under the suit - in no case try on a jacket with a thick sweater. First of all, pay attention to the fit of the jacket, and, most importantly, to the shoulder girdle - it depends on whether the jacket will fit well and not restrict movement. The main faults of a poor fit are: the collar of the jacket comes off at the back of the neck, a factory defect that is difficult to fix; "tail" back of the jacket - a defect of stooped figures; the jacket is wide at the hips - the defect can be eliminated by taking extra centimeters into the side seams. This deficiency is often observed in sports figures with a strongly developed torso. Too tight jacket restricts movement and does not make you slim. Don't be put off by the natural creases on the sleeves and back that form as you move. When trying on a suit, make a few habitual movements to determine if you are comfortable moving, raising your arms, bending, turning. In any case, the costume should not interfere, but, as it were, form a single whole with you.
Jacket length? It depends mainly on the proportion of the figure - height, shoulder turn, waist length, legs. With a short stature and a stocky figure, an overly short or long jacket is not recommended - a neutral length is preferable. The rule that the length of the jacket should reach the base of the thumb cannot be considered a dogma. Ugly and too long or short sleeves jacket - it seems that it is not your size, in addition, long sleeves visually shorten growth. The length of the sleeves of the shirt that you have set for yourself as the most suitable will give you the opportunity to correctly choose the length of the sleeves of the jacket, which, in any position of the hands, should be 1 - 2 centimeters shorter than the sleeves of the shirt.
Now about trousers. Nothing visually increases height and promotes ease of movement like trousers that fit well - putting on trousers, try to move, sit down. If the pockets diverge and bulge, the trousers are narrow at the hips. The belt of trousers is located on a natural line of a waist. Soft folds laid down from the waist create the necessary