How to clean marble. Useful tips. Is it possible to prevent the destruction of marble? What destroys marble

Today we will continue to deal with marble and touch on its properties and defects, which sometimes occur during operation. It can be attributed to rocks of medium hardness, it can be different, it depends on the density and composition, the hardness on the MOOC scale can be 2-3 or 3-4. One of the properties of marble is porosity, like all natural materials. That's why natural stones referred to as vapor-permeable materials. Oddly enough, but it combines two seemingly contradictory properties: permeability to gases and vapor and low water absorption, this is due to the size and geometry of the pores. The porosity of limestones is more extensive than that of marble, its fluctuations reach 27%, while marble has a maximum of 1%

A more porous rock related to marbles can be called travertine, because. its origin occurs in water sources, it contains a rather large number of gas bubbles.

As already mentioned in the article "", the properties of marble are inherent in the qualities necessary for finishing materials. Once again I emphasize wear resistance, strength, density, easy processing, decorative effect and excellent preservation of polishing. But among the varieties there are also stones that have low wear resistance, so it is not recommended to use them for flooring.

Now let's talk about the defects that can occur during the operation of a polished stone. It is not exposed to aggressive environments and moisture if the processing is done in the factory. As time passes, the structure is still subject to changes, because the internal bonds between the crystals are destroyed, i.e. in the language of professionals, this sounds like surface weathering. The depth of the weakened layer sometimes reaches several cm. The strongest changes occur in places of mechanical damage - these can be bumps, scratches, if strong pressure is applied to the stone. Due to the violation of the internal bonds of crystals near the stone, the surface becomes spongy, pits and notches begin to appear in it, due to the loss of surface crystals. If the places are subject to strong mechanical stress, then white stripes and spots may form, they consist of already destroyed, but not yet lost crystals.

When the surface is weakened, it perfectly begins to absorb various pollution, i.e. absorbs liquids, incl. and cleansing, and they pull particles of pollution with them. It turns out that water and solutions transport dirt into the material.

It is impossible not to say about the defects that sometimes occur over time. They can be divided into 2 parts:

1) Violation of the surface, i.e. what can happen is the destruction of parts or parts, the occurrence of cracks, chips at the edges and corners, abrasion of the surface, and, as already mentioned above, surface weathering.

2) Change in texture, surface contamination, staining and discoloration of the stone, and efflorescence are typical here.

Now, in more detail, with regard to the destruction of individual parts or parts made of marble, this usually occurs during external cladding, and is associated with moisture entering the cavity between the cladding and the wall, in winter it freezes and thaws. Plus, do not forget about such factors as acid rain and shrinkage deformations, i.e. both collectively and individually, there is a possibility of marble destruction.

As a result of the settlement of the building, impacts on the marble, cracks and chips may appear on the corners and edges of the marble parts.

Abrasion may occur on the floors and stairs, its formation depends on the attendance of the premises (large), and the lack of normal surface care, i.e. abrasive load increases. Surface weathering appears as a loss of polish, this is possible due to the lack of compatibility of the different types of wood used in the cladding, mealy crusts can also form.

On the floors, this can manifest itself in the form of exfoliated particles and flakes of marble. Surface weathering can also be caused by anti-icing agents that are brought in from the street with visitors' shoes. The use of a considerable amount of water during cleaning and poor waterproofing can also lead to this result.

Penetrating between the seams of the plates, excess moisture gradually accumulates under them and begins to rise to the surface. When migrating through marble, it interacts with atmospheric carbon dioxide and combines with calcite, thereby converting it into soluble calcium bicarbonate. On the surface, moisture evaporates, and calcium turns into insoluble salts. Gradually, the volume of salts begins to prevail over the volume of calcite and, as a result of this process, the destruction of the surface material. Efflorescence is formed in a similar process, but more on that in the next article, now you know the properties of marble and the defects that sometimes occur during operation.

Marble is an extremely necessary and useful stone, and its use lies not only in those amazing works of art from Italy and Greece that we admire in museums. Its scope is much wider. So much so that it is hard to imagine what our life would be like without marble.

Marble can be found in the operating room; after all, where all tables and walls must always be perfectly clean, marble slabs are indispensable; at the electric station, where the control devices are located on huge distribution boards, here again huge boards of marble, impenetrable and not conducting electricity, are located along the walls; in hospitals and sanatoriums with fine clean marble bathtubs and washstands with marble boards; at the tannery, where the finest leathers are rolled on large marble shafts; of course in the metro, as well as theaters, public buildings, with their beautiful marble columns and balustrades, with marble facings, marble steps and window sills, strong, always clean and not suffering from water, frost or the blows of many thousands of feet; in the beautiful cladding of buildings made of marble or marble chips mixed with cement, and so on - it is simply impossible to enumerate to the end!

Marble is a hard mineral, but at the same time it is soft enough to be sawn with iron. Pure white, dazzling white; sometimes with a pleasant transparency, which resembles the color of human skin; sometimes variegated beautiful colors - yellow, pink, green, red, black: homogeneous and clean, not conductive of electricity, resistant to the destructive action of water and air, marble is a wonderful material in human hands, and man appreciated it many thousands of years ago.

Anyone who had the opportunity to admire the ancient Greek temples of snow-white marble, or who climbed the winding stairs to the roof of the marble Milan Cathedral - in the midst of fine carvings, columns and decorations carved from stone, or descended the marble steps of the Moscow metro - he cannot but admire this wonderful stone.

In Italy, on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, near the famous Carrara, there are up to a thousand pieces of snow-white marble. High in the mountains, in wild gorges, white marble rocks imperceptibly merge with the snows of the Apuan Alps. With the help of harnessed bulls on skating rinks, blocks of several tons in weight are pulled down from wild steeps. So that they do not roll down and do not crush anyone, blocks of the same marble are tied to them from behind with chains, which drag along the slopes with a roar and slow down the skating rinks.

Next, the blocks are cut into marble boards in water mills. Then the stone boards are transported along railway to the shores of the Mediterranean Sea; there huge cranes lift both boards and blocks and lower them into the holds of large ocean-going steamships. So every year a huge amount of marble is sent to different parts of the world.

Russia is no less rich in marble - Karelia, Moscow region, Crimea, Caucasus, Urals, Altai, Sayans.

But marble is not eternal: if you look at the old parts of the cladding of St. Isaac's Cathedral-Museum or at the columns of the Marble Palace in St. Petersburg, you can see how much the old pieces have changed, how the corners have smoothed out, and the size of the decorations has decreased. The air, especially in cities, contains many substances that are toxic to marble., and therefore rain water destroys this stone unusually strongly and quickly.

AT 100 years about 1 mm of marble dissolves, and in 1000 years - a whole centimeter. But this is not enough: the proximity of the sea enhances the destruction of marble: salty sea spray is carried inland for many hundreds of kilometers and corrodes the stone even more. Snow is even stronger than rain, as it absorbs even more poisonous acids from the air. Water freezing in cracks, thin roots of plants and fungi also accelerate the destruction of marble, and the wind, carrying dust and sand, polishes and erases the soft surface of the stone.

Nothing in nature is eternal. Geological periods of thousands of years, on the one hand, accumulate whole mountains from microscopic grains of sand, and on the other hand, they destroy and smooth out the solid unshakable rocks of past centuries. The laws of nature are the same, and in the complex geological history of nature, the activity of man and the eternity of his creations are only a very small, rapidly passing minute.

Article based on the book:

Alexander Evgenievich Fersman, Interesting mineralogy.

Products made of natural decorative stone become contaminated over time, impregnated with chemical neoplasms that penetrate deep into the crystalline structure.

Marble and limestone exterior claddings need to be repaired after 5-10 years. Granite facings do not require restoration for several decades. Interior claddings, when properly cared for, require virtually no restoration for an indefinitely long period. Marble facings in underground conditions, if not taken care of, are prematurely destroyed and need to be restored a few months after installation. During restoration, the stone is washed, glued, cracks and crevices are repaired, and the original texture is restored.

The sugary destruction of marbles is inherent exclusively in external facings. It is caused by uneven destruction of the surface layer subject to weathering. At the same time, the rough surface of the stone resembles the structure of sugar.

Flaky destruction is inherent only in marble-like limestones, characterized by heterogeneity of composition, and is largely manifested in wet conditions.

Cracks, spalls and other mechanical damage occur as a result of deformations of lined structures.

When processing manually with percussion tools, pneumatic or electric bush hammers are used. Such processing is allowed on plates with a thickness of more than 100 mm. All cladding elements, except for abrasive ones, are treated around the perimeter with a narrow scarpel (20 mm wide), regardless of the overall texture of the plates.

The seams between the slabs of the cladding are embroidered again, and if there is a lead gasket, they are minted.

Abrasives are processed manually or with electrified tools. This method is used only on flat and horizontal surfaces.

Vertical surfaces are ground only with bars, since the grain abrasive is not held on a vertical plane. The cladding seams are cleaned of mortar to a depth of 2-3 mm and washed thoroughly so that the surface is not scratched during polishing.

Polishing is carried out only with white powders, since it is difficult to remove traces of colored powders.

Efflorescence (efflorescence) is formed when poor-quality cement, contaminated sand and additives - cement mortar hardening accelerators are used in quantities exceeding the established ones. The main reason for the formation of spots on the surface of the inner lining is the insufficient protection of the back side of the slabs from the moisture of the facing surface, which causes coloring of the light tones of the stone with iron oxides. Wooden wedges, caulk and other materials of organic origin, the decomposition products of which can also cause stains on the surface of the lining, should not be left behind the lining.

To protect against dust, efflorescence and stains, the surface of the cladding is regularly washed, coated with protective compounds and periodically polished. Protective compositions (for example, mastic based on wax and paraffin) are applied in a thin layer with a clean linen cloth to the surface of the cladding, previously thoroughly washed, and kept for 3-4 minutes to evaporate the solvent. Then, the surface of the lining is wiped with an electric floor polisher to a mirror shine, and first the felt circle of the floor polisher is tightened with a clean cloth.

The mirror shine of white marbles is restored with tin powder. Chromium and aluminum oxides are used to polish stone of various colors.

In some rocks, especially in marble, there are compounds of ferruginous substances that, in the air, and especially under the influence of moisture, change their chemical composition, giving the overall tone of the surface of the product a yellowish or pinkish tint. Such a process of chemical action with simultaneous mechanical contamination of the pores of the stone is called patination, and the yellowish or pinkish surface tone resulting from this on the marble is called patina. Patina gives the stone a "warm" uniform, sometimes subtle shade. It is unacceptable to remove the patina by chemical means or by rough mechanical cleaning with a sandpaper or a rasp, as this will damage the product.

Marble patinated products should only be carefully cleaned and washed from surface dust and dirt. Cleaning and washing the surface of marble with plasters of sulfuric, hydrochloric acid or aqua regia is extremely harmful to products, as the marble surface is destroyed, becoming dull and rough. The only acid allowed in the restoration of marble and limestone products is oxalic acid; it does not destroy the stone and is used to remove superficial rust stains. Soda, like alkali, also does not act destructively on the stone, so simple pure soda in weak solutions can be used for products stored indoors and not damaged on the surface. Such a strong alkali as caustic soda cannot be used when washing a stone, since it, getting into cracks and deep pores, can cause shedding of the surface layer of the stone due to the crystallization of the remaining alkali in the pores and crevices of the product.

The most harmless and well-acting means for washing a stone is a simple neutral soap. With soap, brush, sponge and hot water stone products can be washed from any alluvial pollution.

If the surface layer of the stone product is partially destroyed, then before proceeding with washing, the surfaces that threaten destruction should be fixed. For this purpose, they use: marble - burnt magnesia with marble dust, diluted on magnesium chloride, followed by coating the surface with paraffin; chalk putty on gelatin, followed by soaking it with formalin; zinc white putty on natural drying oil. Only after sealing cracks and hair nets with one of the indicated compositions with their thorough drying, you can start washing the product.

When washing garden architectural decorations made of marble, usually covered with lichens and moss, use a neutral soap with the addition of pumice powder. The surface is rubbed with a brush or brush. Especially firmly settled on marble, lichens are torn off with a copper wire brush. The smooth and wide surfaces of marble are easily cleaned with natural pumice in a piece. Large sheer planes of marble are washed using sawdust, which, having absorbed soapy water, easily stick to the marble surface, retaining soap and moisture on it and thereby accelerating the washing of dirt.

Oil paint from marble products is washed with preliminary softening with caustic soda, liquid soap or bleach. A saturated solution of such an alkali is smeared on the surface of the paint, then the softened paint is carefully scraped off with a sharp knife, while washing this place with water. Before such washing of the product, all cracks and damage on its surface must be well repaired so that they do not let caustic soda pass through.

In cases where old soot and dirt are not washed off the surface of the product, steam cleaning is used. Products from polished granite and similar igneous rocks are cleaned and washed using hard hair and soft wire brushes. Products from hewn granite, limestone, sandstone, tuff and dolomite are cleaned by continuous forging with bush hammers or surface treatment with a sandblaster.

Stains are found mainly on marble products and are removed with the help of chemicals, the composition of which depends on the nature of the stain. The nature of the spot can be determined in some cases by its appearance. So, oil stains become yellow or yellow over time. dark brown color. Copper or bronze spots are green, and sometimes bronze also forms brown spots.

Spots are usually removed with a poultice or plaster with various chemical compositions. To remove an oil or fat stain, a paste of burnt magnesia mixed with gasoline or benzene is applied to it. Oil stains are removed by applying a paste of 2 parts soda, 1 part fluff lime and 1 part elutriated pumice. Iron rust is removed with a paste of 1 part sodium citric acid dissolved in 6 parts water, as well as glycerin and chalk. When the paste dries, it is moistened again or removed and the stain is covered with a new layer of paste. Since this agent acts slowly, a paste consisting of 1 part of sodium alkali, 1 part of slaked lime, 1 part of liquid soap and 4 parts of sawdust can be used for deep and sharp stains. The stain should be covered with this paste for 24 hours, after which it is washed off with water.

Spots of copper oxide form in places where streaks flow from bronze, copper or brass parts adjacent to marble. To eliminate these stains, the compositions used against rust stains are suitable. In addition, the following means are used: a) a paste of 1 part ammonium chloride and 4 parts of powdered talc, mixed dry with the addition of ammonia water; b) a lotion from a white cloth soaked in a solution of potassium cyanide - 7.5 g per 1 liter of water.

Resinous stains resulting from contact with a resinous tree (for example, when packing a product in a wooden container for transportation) are removed in the following way: first, the surface of the stone is rubbed with pumice powder, then a lotion from a cloth soaked in a solution of sodium phosphate and bleach is firmly pressed to this place . Stain-removing compositions are used in the form of a paste, which is a mixture of chemicals with chalk, stone flour or other inert powder, or in the form of a patch consisting of several layers of cloth impregnated with a chemical solution.

Lubricating oil stains are difficult to clean and should be removed as soon as they are discovered. To do this, in a mixture of acetone with amyl acetate (1: 1), a swab of white cloth folded in three or four layers is moistened and applied to the stain, pressing the swab with a piece of glass or marble slab. Glass and marble prevent the rapid evaporation of the solution. The size of the swab should exceed the size of the spot by 3-4 cm on each side.

Traces of oils are removed by applying to the stain and leaving a paste of lime, chalk or marble flour mixed with pure gasoline until completely dry.

Old oil stains are removed as follows. An asbestos fiber 8-10 mm thick impregnated with amyl acetate is applied to the stain, which is pressed with a marble slab.

A heated steel sheet is placed on top. Asbestos is moistened with amyl acetate as it dries. The steel sheet must be hot enough. The operation is repeated until the stains are completely removed.

The stains from drying oil that form on the lining when embroidering 1 seams with mastics made on drying oil are removed with great difficulty by repeatedly applying a swab of cotton wool soaked in hydrogen peroxide. For the same purposes, apply: a mixture of methyl alcohol with a 10% solution of trisodium phosphate in a ratio of 1:1 by weight. Asbestos cardboard 8-10 mm thick impregnated with a solution is applied to the stain to be removed, and a marble slab is placed on top, which is covered with a heated steel sheet. The operation is repeated until the stain is completely removed.

To seal through cracks and large cracks, one fill is not enough. In such cases, a crack or a gap before pouring is fastened with brackets made of copper or brass, for which holes are drilled in the stone, in which the ends of the brackets, cut with a “ruff”, are strengthened. The walls of the gap are cleaned of dirt or traces of the previous restoration and moistened with water. After that, the gap on the front side of the product is covered with crumpled clay so that the pouring mass does not show through. From the pouring side, the clay is applied so that a channel is formed with a funnel-shaped opening at the top. In several places of the channel, holes are made for air to escape when pouring the mass. The ends of the brackets that fasten the stone along the gap are also filled with clay funnels (“leaf”). The body of the thicker brackets should fit into a groove cut in the stone. The prepared mass is poured into clay channels, and the holes (vents) are covered with clay as soon as the poured mass appears from them.

After filling the gap, the clay cannot be removed until the final cooling and fixing of the poured composition. The resulting bumps and nodules are cut down with a sharp tool, and poorly filled places are sealed with a spatula or a similar tool. If a dark strip of filling stands out from the outside, a little mass is taken out of the gap and the groove is sealed with marble or another mass well matched to the color of the stone.

When sealing small cracks with compositions that are used in a hot state (resins, sulfur), the cracks are first heated, then the composition is quickly rubbed into them, after which the stone is ironed with a heated iron several times along the repaired crack.

Broken or destroyed small parts can be restored by inserting from the same stone as the restored product. To restore the destroyed parts of the profiled steps, cornices and various figured products, the missing part is preliminarily molded from a soft material (clay, plasticine), and the plaster mold is removed from it. According to the model cast in the form, this part is already made of stone, which is glued into the product, having previously strengthened it with brackets and pyrons.

Inserts can be made from a mass prepared according to one of the above recipes and matched in color to the stone being restored. The model is cast in a plaster mold. Marble is imitated using a gypsum compound mixed with aluminum alum or glutinous water with the addition of rosin (yellow), ultramarine blue (greenish), cinnabar (dark red), etc.

To reduce hygroscopicity, i.e. the ability to absorb moisture from the air into their pores, parts of the product made from a gypsum composition are boiled in a saturated alum solution, soaked in linseed oil or boiled in paraffin.

Traditional cleaning and care products are not always suitable for natural stone, which has a peculiar composition and characteristics. Therefore, laboratories around the world are developing special formulations for working with natural stone.

Today our company offers you chemistry from Italy, Germany, Spain, Turkey. In these countries, not only the use of natural stone is highly developed, but also the culture of caring for it.

You can be congratulated - natural stone settled in your house? In order for him to please you for many years, you need to follow simple recommendations for caring for him.

In order not to complicate the story, we will conditionally divide the stone used into two groups - marble and granite.

To the group marble will also include stones with similar physical and mechanical characteristics and chemical composition- onyx, travertine, limestone, etc.

To the group granite- gabbro, labradorite, diorite, norite, amphibolite, etc.

Contrary to popular belief that there is nothing more reliable and durable than natural stone, it can also quickly become unusable if not properly maintained.

Here are our tips for using natural stone cladding:

If polished (especially marble) the floor starts from the front door, put a rug on which sand and dirt particles will be cleaned, otherwise they, working as an abrasive, will erase the polish, and pebbles that have fallen into the sole of the shoe can seriously damage the floor surface.

In the event of the formation of chips or other damage at the ends of the steps or the surface of the slabs, it is necessary to restore them as soon as possible with special mastics for stone in order to avoid further destruction.

Polished floors and steps, especially marble ones, must be carefully looked after, as dust and dirt on the surface that they walk on destroys the polish - they form "Abrasions» in places with the highest traffic.

For regular care behind stone slabs, it is enough to rinse them with water, you can use a diluted cleaner BERT-27 ( Bellinzoni) for granite, cleaner LEM-3 ( Bellinzoni) or mild soap stonecleaner (Akemi) for marble.

If the cladding is marble, you need to carefully monitor the chemistry used - marble is afraid of acid and, accordingly, of all acid preparations !!! Get rid of "acid» Marble burns will be almost impossible!Even weak acids will destroy the structure of marble, while powders and abrasive chips will leave scratches.

In our practice, there was a case when marble received acid burn from spilled compote!

Many firms offer marble cleaning, they come to you and clean it with abrasives and chemicals so that your marble will not be recognized later. Run as fast as you can from them. It is possible to restore marble after such cleaning, but you will spend much more money than buying a special soft marble cleaner.

Periodically, it is necessary to arrange a deeper cleaning of the surface and seams from dirt that is not removed during daily cleaning. For granite, this is done using cleaners. Brio Action 2, Brio Action 3 (Tenax), or concentrated BERT-27 ( Bellinzoni), for marble with concentrated cleaner LEM-3 ( Bellinzoni).

If you spill or drop anything on the stone floor, clean it up immediately. Try not to rub or rub the dirt, but gently blot it with an absorbent cloth. Then it's a good idea to make a compress out of something absorbent, such as blotting paper. Some pollution leaves slightly noticeable spots with fuzzy borders - halos, which are visible only at a certain viewing angle. Particularly good "get dirty» all types of light stone - greasy, oily, colored spots are clearly visible on it. But on the other hand, scratches and scuffs are not so noticeable on light stones.

To remove stubborn stains various kinds you need to use special cleaners for granite, marble and other stones:

• rust cleaners for graniteRust Remover (Akemi);
• rust cleaners for marbleMangiaruggine (Bellinzoni); Rust Remover Marble (Akemi);
• organic cleaners, moldsAlgae and Mildew Remover POWER (Akemi), BrioAction (Tenax);
• grease and oil cleanersOil and Grease Remover Paste (Akemi); Mangia Macchia (Bellinzoni);
• paint cleaners, markersGraffiti Remover (Akemi); wall cleaning (Bellinzoni).

On facades, monuments, outdoor steps, such a common type of pollution often occurs as "Vysoly". These hard-to-remove light spots of salt or alkali composition not only significantly worsen appearance lining, but also contribute to its premature destruction. This contamination can be removed with Concrete Film Remover- cement film and lime stone cleaner (Akemi).

Light types of polished marble and granite are very good to rinse, dry and cover immediately after installation with products to protect the polished surface from dirt, water, oil, etc.: MPG (Roberlo);vh72/ S (Elkay); Hydrex (Tenax). Such impregnation will not only exclude such a surface defect as "spots getting wet”, but also protects the outer cladding from the damaging effects of frost.

The surface of the stone with an unpolished texture (polished, hard antique), as well as the surfaces of porous and rough stones that do not accept polishing, get very dirty, so it is very desirable to cover them with means to protect the unpolished stone from water, dirt, etc. before use:

• vh92 ( Elkay); vh72 ( Elkay); colorintensifier (Akemi) protection with color enhancement.

To harden the surface of the stone is used: for limestone and sandstone Limrax (Elkay); for marble, onyx Vetro- glass (Bellinzoni).

Since ancient times, man has known that the easiest way to add shine to a stone is to rub it with wax. By the way, experienced stonecutters of the older generation will remember how they rubbed the ends of marble and granite with lard. Today, wax has been replaced by silicone and paraffin, which, in various combinations with other substances, make up the majority of polishes and polishing pastes. Traditionally, these are called WAX FOR STONE. By consistency, it comes in different densities and some other manufacturers produce it in different colors.

• Liquid wax with silicone (Elkay);
• Tewax (Tenax);
• Cera Fluida (Tenax);
• Specpreparato (Bellinzoni).

In order to reveal the texture of the stone, one shine is not enough. Have you noticed how the most unsightly stones are transformed after the rain, how they begin to play with all the colors? So, this one "wet effect "can be obtained using chemicals called COLOR DEVELOPER, COLOR ENHANCER etc. They are produced with different chemical composition for polished and rough textures.

• VH2011 BLACKK (Elkay);
• VH2010 BLACKK (Elkay);
• VH920/A10 (Elkay);
• Color Intensifier (Akemi);
• Darkener Super (Akemi);
• Petrolux (Tenax)

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What else needs to be protected from marble and granite on facades and monuments? Of course, from the assholes with spray paint cans! After all, as it happens - they just line some pretty shop with expensive granite, they haven’t even managed to deliver the goods - and on the facade there is already SPARTAK-CHAMPION (and this is at best) painted on. In such cases, paint protection will help you. Anti Graffiti (Akemi). It will allow you to easily wash off paint, glue, soot and other contaminants from the treated surface.

In the kitchen, the kitchen worktop wears out the most. Hot pots and pans are placed on it, they cook, cut, spill various mayonnaise-ketchups on it ...

Of course, granite is not afraid of knives and other sharp objects, it does not need to be re-sanded for every scratch, like acrylic and others. fake diamond, it is not afraid of hot, like plastic, acids and alkalis, like polymer concrete. Granite is easy to care for, but it is still very desirable to do so.

If the countertop is made of light granite, it must be impregnated with a means to protect it from water, grease and dirt before use:

• RROTEC (Roberlo);
• Hydrex ( tenax);
• StainRepellent (Akemi)

* * *

If you have already managed to plant a stain, then you can use those cleaners that are recommended above in the floor and steps care section.

* * *

For regular care of kitchen worktops, you can use a specially designed Spray cleaner BrioTop (Tenax)

For cutting products, you need to use cutting boards, otherwise you will have to sharpen knives often!

We want to tell you once again that we will be happy to answer all your questions about natural stone and its care by phone, and for more detailed advice, come to our office.

If you do not know the name of the stone, take a sample or photo of it with you, then it will be easier for you to help.

Come, we are always happy to help you!

We wish your stone, as well as you, many years of bright life!

Marble is a very strong and durable stone. It has a unique luxury and attractive naturalness, however, its safety most often depends on proper care.

Despite its durability and strength, it is a whimsical porous material that reacts sensitively to many factors. environment. Therefore, when ordering the manufacture of any item in the marble interior, you must be ready to provide it with proper care.

Preservation of the original appearance of a marble product requires compliance with the rules for using the item, as well as the use of protective equipment.

Protective equipment.

For marble objects, special protective agents are used that prevent moisture and grease from getting into the structure of the stone and creating microcracks on the surface. Usually, these are water-based products.

Means are applied to the stone in a thin layer. The surface must be dry and clean. It is advisable to check the effect on the stone in an inconspicuous place before applying protection, since marble is unpredictable and stains can still remain on it.

Protection of specific marble products

Certain marble items require additional measures to protect the stone.

A natural stone kitchen countertop is exposed to constant exposure to grease, liquids, drinks, etc. In such conditions, it is very difficult to protect the stone. Cook only with cutting boards and other protective coverings. In no case should you put hot things on marble, you need to make sure that glasses with wine or other liquids are on stands.

It is better to leave a marble window sill empty or put on it only those items that cannot stain it. It should also be treated with products that neutralize the effects of sunlight.

Marble floors also need special care. In front of the front door, be sure to lay a rug that absorbs the main dirt from the street. It is advisable not to walk on the marble floor with shoes on, and to wipe it constantly to remove dirt particles.

Marble in the bathroom quickly becomes dull and loses its attractiveness due to soap marks remaining on its surface. To keep the look natural material, it is necessary to abandon soap products from processed petroleum products and wipe the marble with a rubber scraper after each water procedure. Never clean marble folk remedies or abrasives. To remove light soiling, a mild soap solution or warm water can be used. For serious cleaning, use special products for cleaning marble, having previously tested it on an inconspicuous area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stone product.