What destroys marble. How to prevent the destruction of marble. Marble processing - daily care

Products made of stone and ceramics are combined into one common group materials, because the methods of conservation and restoration of them are almost the same, and this, in turn, depends on the related nature of their source materials. This situation requires, however, a very serious clarification, otherwise we can ruin quite a few museum items.

The point is that the concept of "stone" covers such various materials that although in practice we seem to understand what a “stone” is, we cannot establish exact signs; and therefore, if we want to scientifically raise the question of the restoration and conservation of this material, it is necessary to determine more precisely what kind of material we are going to restore.

A few examples will explain the matter.

So, the stone malachite is more or less known to everyone. If we compare malachite with marble, then their hardness and some other characteristics are more or less the same; even the color of marble sometimes resembles the color of malachite; but they are completely different in chemical composition. In one case we have copper carbonate, in the other calcium carbonate, and all the further properties of these stones are different. "Stone" quartz or flint is so different from this "stone" in its properties or from diamond stone that no comparison at all is possible.

Thus, from the point of view of the material itself, the concept of "stone" is extremely different, and therefore requires a more careful attitude to the very nature of this material. In practice, we must distinguish between the two main types of "stone": the natural compound of silicon (silicium) - silicates - and the natural compounds of calcium and magnesium - limestone, marble, gypsum, dolomite, etc.

Silicon compounds with oxygen (SiO 2 silica) are the main part of a huge number of minerals, ranging from flint and quartz to basalt, Labradorite, granite, feldspar, etc.

Silica is extremely resistant to acids; only fluoric acid dissolves it, hydrochloric acid can turn it into a gelatinous state, but not dissolve it; but alloys of silica with potassium or sodium are soluble even in water (liquid glass).

On the contrary, the second group of "stone" (marble and others) are extremely sensitive to certain acids; these are the compounds of calcium and magnesium with carbon dioxide (CaCO 3; MgCO 3); they slowly dissolve in water, but if the latter contains carbonic acid, which is often the case in soil waters, then the dissolution becomes much more vigorous. Calcium combined with a sulfuric acid radical (CaSO 4) - gypsum differs significantly from previous calcium compounds: therefore, it is again planned for practical work special group of "stone".

Stone technology for ordinary products is the simplest technology. The stone is usually subjected to only simple mechanical processing. First, there is a simple chipping of excess material, and then grinding, polishing, drilling, turning. The stone is usually not subjected to chemical treatment.

Thus, purely mechanical processing remains typical for stone; the study of this processing can be carried out again by the simplest methods - macroscopic and microscopic analyses.

An exact mineralogical determination is made, of course, not by a historian or an economist, but by natural scientists. For the elementary determination of the material, there are the simplest chemical reactions indicated below.

The main factor in the destruction of not very dense stone is a strong change in temperature in conjunction with humidity. If the stone is porous, then moisture, getting into the pores, freezes when the temperature drops, the volume of water increases, and the stone breaks. We observe this process on those stone things that remain open in atmospheric conditions; so, for example, located “a square opposite the Winter Palace in Leningrad, a huge granite column is all dotted with cracks formed precisely from the action of water, which, falling into the smallest pores of a stone, tore it apart when it freezes. This is especially noticeable on the north side of the column, which, obviously, is more exposed to freezing processes.

The same thing happens with the magnificent columns of the Issakiev Cathedral and the granite parapet on the embankments of the Neva, Fontanka, etc.

This phenomenon of stone breaking is extremely common in our climate; and where the climate is sharply continental, with sudden and sharp changes in heat and cold, “in addition to water, rapid changes in temperature can also act destructively, since some types of stone have a non-uniform composition, and the coefficient of expansion of the constituent components is different.

In addition, air movement has a great destructive effect on the stone. At the same time, a large number of grains of sand rise by the wind, which beat off its smallest particles from the stone; often the stone is completely worn out under the action of the wind. This is the so-called weathering, which includes the washing-out action of water. Even in areas with stable calm atmospheric conditions, the wind is an energetic destructive factor, and in countries with very strong windiness, as, for example, in Central Asia, the weathering process is extremely rapid.

In a relatively mild climate, those stone products that belong to the second group, i.e., calcium compounds with CO2 (marble, dolomite), suffer the most, because they are much easier than silicates to be affected by freezing water, wind, and, unfortunately, some chemical factors. These chemical factors primarily include sulfur dioxide, which enters in large quantities into the air of industrial cities as a result of the combustion of coal in the furnaces of factories, plants, steamships, etc. This sulfur dioxide, combining with atmospheric moisture, gives sulfuric acid and destroys carbon dioxide compounds already chemically. Therefore, in this case, we observe the destruction of marble, the destruction of lime structures (plaster), etc.

Here, calcium carbonate turns into gypsum, crystallizes and destroys the surface mechanically or is washed out with water.

Compounds of the third group, i.e. gypsum, selenite and others, in general, the compounds are not very strong, their hardness is low; they are mainly used for crafting small things.

With regard to compounds of this group, we observe a wide variety of mechanical and chemical damage. Being in the ground, the stone is exposed to other influences. The fact is that soil water always contains some dissolved salts, most often salts of sodium chloride. A solution of salt, penetrating a stone, especially a porous one, saturates it like a sponge; if this kind of stone, impregnated with a salt solution, is placed in conditions of relative dryness, rapid evaporation of water begins, crystals of dissolved salt will be released from the solution, and a stone that is not very dense will break. Sometimes the process goes so far that the whole stone turns to powder, but even if the process does not go so far, still the destruction from it is always very significant; the worst thing is that these destructions will be found in the museum, i.e. in a dry place. White plaques appear on the surface of the stone product, consisting of crystals, often quite large.

Salts dissolved in water can be very different: some of them dissolve very easily, others dissolve with great difficulty or hardly dissolve. Of those salts that are easily soluble, first of all, it is necessary to name table salt, i.e. sodium chloride, which is the main weed in almost all soil waters. If the air in the museum is dry, this sodium chloride, quickly escaping from the water, forms crystals, but if there is strong humidity in the museum, the sodium chloride will again dissolve, again the table salt will be absorbed into the stone product. When dried, a new crystallization process will occur, etc.

These repeated processes of drying and dissolving in the museum environment are the main factor in the destruction. Therefore, we usually try to remove sodium chloride first, firstly, because it is the most common representative of soluble salts, and, secondly, because if we remove sodium chloride, other soluble salts will also be removed with it: such are potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, sodium carbonate and potassium, etc.

Insoluble or sparingly soluble salts are dissolved in soil water in a very small amount, but if this or that thing is in the earth for centuries and millennia, nevertheless, even with a small content of such sparingly soluble salt in the water, it is gradually deposited in large quantities, and objects sometimes are completely saturated with these salts, or a thick crust of salts deposited on the surface grows on them; most often we find deposits of calcium carbonate and sulfate, i.e., chalk and gypsum with grains of sand, pieces of clay, etc.

The very first thing to do with an object extracted from the earth is to wash and remove soluble salts. We call this process leaching and it is carried out by more or less prolonged soaking in water.

Therefore, a stone thing, in which we assume the presence of one salt or another, must first of all be properly washed. To do this, it is placed in ordinary water. However, the water should not be too hard. By changing the water every day, we gradually wash out sodium chloride and other soluble salts from the stone product day by day. It is extremely necessary to control the content of chloride salts; it is produced with a weak solution of 1.5-2% silver nitrate AgNO 3 . one

Nitrate silver, meeting with table salt or some other compound containing chlorine, gives a white precipitate of silver chloride.

Therefore, if there is even a small fraction of chlorine in the water, we will have white turbidity, and then a white precipitate, which will indicate that chlorine is still present and the leaching has not been completed. Only the smallest fractions of chlorine are tolerable, otherwise things will perish.

For such hard rocks as granite, basalt, flint, it is not necessary to carry out such washing out, since water does not have the opportunity to penetrate into these rocks. On hard stone, there may be deposits and crusts on the surface, consisting of insoluble salts.

Sometimes it can be dangerous to put an object in water to wash it out. In such cases, this item should be bandaged with an ordinary medical bandage or some fixing substance permeable to water should be applied to it, for example, a gelatin film or a film of celluloid dissolved in acetone (2%); with such a coating, leaching is much slower, but still can be brought to an end.

Another way to remove salts is to bring salts to the surface of the object. This is done in this way: they take filter paper, tear it into small pieces and put it in a flask with water, then shake it well; it turns out the pulp, which is applied to a particular object is not a thick layer. Here something quite different is happening than when putting an object into water: a slow process of diffusion takes place in water, in this case, if you put paper pulp on an object and let this pulp dry, you will use another property, namely, the phenomenon of capillary rise solution: liquid together with salt from the depth will rise to the surface of evaporation; when the paper dries, the salt crystallizes on its surface. Carefully removing the paper after it dries, we remove some of the salt with it. This operation is repeated several times. For control, you lower the removed paper into a glass of distilled water and test it for chlorine with silver nitrate.

All washing is done slowly, and haste here can spoil all the results of the work; it should be remembered that in restoration, slow, careful work is the key to success.

Al. Scott in the laboratory of the British Museum soaked some items for 4-6 months and even more.

There may be even more refined ways of processing, but enough has been said, especially if you are very careful and thorough in your work.

Of the sparingly soluble salts in water, calcium carbonate, magnesium or calcium sulfate are most common. From a solid silicate stone, they are removed partly mechanically, partly - it is calcareous - with a weak (1.5-2.0%) solution of hydrochloric acid, after which thorough washing is necessary. From soft loose stones (limestones, etc.), such removal must be done with great care so that the object itself is not dissolved with hydrochloric acid.

It is often necessary to fix a crumbling or cracking stone. The first method of fixing is impregnation with non-decomposing fats. The most reliable means is paraffin. Possibly refractory paraffin is taken, melted, heated to 125°, or dissolved in xylene or toluene, and an object heated to 105-110° is immersed in it, i.e., so that no water remains in it. The object should be in paraffin until the release of bubbles stops. If after that we remove the object from the paraffin and let it dry well, we can get a greasy, greasy, unpleasant surface. This excess fat can be removed by gently heating and removing the paraffin wax with a swab of cotton or linen.

The second method is the use of any resins, in particular, shellac resin. Shellac dissolves in strong alcohol. A 2% solution is usually sufficient. In such a solution of resin, the object must be held until the bubbles disappear. The result is a fairly strong fixation, but, unfortunately, this fixation in resin gives an unpleasant and unnecessary shine.

The third way is to use glue. Of all types of glue, gelatin is the most suitable for fixing.

Take gelatin in a 2-5% solution. The solution is prepared in this way. You should weigh out the required amount of gelatin and the corresponding amount of water, moisten the gelatin in this water so that it becomes completely soft, and then squeeze it well over a cup of water, and then, bringing this water to 60-80 °, gradually throw into it soft gelatin. An object is immersed in such a solution, and in the same way as they did when fixing with paraffin, they hold it until the release of bubbles stops.

It is very important that the solution penetrate as deep as possible: therefore, it is necessary that the object be well dried beforehand, it is better if it is warm; the solution must, of course, be hot.

When the bubbles cease to stand out, take out the item and dry it. Usually one such procedure is enough for all the particles of the object to adhere; in rare cases, the fixing has to be repeated. Until the glue on the surface hardens, the excess is removed with a cloth.

But this cannot be limited. Gelatin, like any glue, is easily attacked by microorganisms and, therefore, we will turn the stone into an area for the development of colonies of microorganisms. Therefore, it is necessary to take some measures that would make gelatin inedible for microorganisms. For this, the fixed object is subjected to the action of formalin. Formalin (40% ready-to-sell solution) is poured into a cup, saucer, or onto transfer paper; a teaspoon is enough for the paper to be only slightly wetted: they wrap the object with it and put it under a glass cap, the latter is placed on some board or better glass and covered with clay all around. The item is left under the cap until the next day. The cap must be removed in the air; the subject should be allowed to ventilate; as a result of such processing, gelatin is made insoluble in water and inedible for microorganisms.

Instead of expensive formalin, you can take another tanning agent - white alum; they are placed in an amount of 0.5% by weight of gelatin in the adhesive solution just before use: the adhesive solution with alum is unsuitable for secondary work; alum is pre-dissolved in a small amount hot water. I have a collection of objects fixed with gelatin approximately 20 years ago, and there are still no signs of destruction; at the same time, the paints do not suffer at all, there is not the slightest trace of such impregnation, there is no shine, etc.

The fourth way of fixing is fixing with cellulose preparations. Cellulose is the fiber that is the backbone of all plant tissue. It is obtained in the simplest way in the purest form from cotton fiber. Under ordinary museum conditions, of course, we cannot obtain a solution of cellulose ourselves, so we should turn to ready-made cellulose preparations. Exist different kinds finished cellulose preparations; the simplest and most affordable is acetate film. Film is one of the preparations of cellulose (acetyl cellulose), which is distinguished by the good quality that it is slightly flammable or almost completely non-flammable. Some preparations of cellulose are highly combustible and even explosive, such as cellulose treated with nitric acid (nitrocellulose, zapon).

First of all, the film must be freed from the photo layer, for which a 5% solution of ordinary soda, i.e. food, is taken, and the film is boiled in it; after that, it is washed in ordinary water to remove lye; a completely transparent clean film is obtained; it dissolves easily in acetone. Make a 2- or 3% solution and impregnate the object with such a solution. Impregnation is done either by dipping or by brushing.

In cases where it is impossible to immerse an object in one or another; fixer, this fixer is applied with a brush. Of course, any application with a brush is much more difficult than simple immersion, but fragile objects have to be fixed precisely by applying a fixer with a brush. Shellac solution and cellulose can be applied with a brush and spray gun.

Often we have to glue stone objects together.

The glue that is sold in stores, under the name of stationery or even gum arabic or syndeticone, has nothing to do with real gum arabic and syndeticone, it is a liquid glass that has a very harmful effect on many materials, and therefore allow the use of such glue in general in museums "and in which case you can't. Very common in the sale of cheap preparations of cellulose. This includes all sorts of rapids, hercules, masterpieces, etc. All these adhesives without designating them chemical composition are not allowed in the museum; they are extremely unreliable, forming films that easily bounce off hard, especially smooth surfaces, which often leads to unexpected disintegration of glued things.

For gluing small stone objects, you can use the same gelatin in a 25% solution in vinegar (7-8% acetic acid in water).

For larger objects, putty is taken, composed of harpius (rosin) and wax in various proportions, depending on the hardness and strength of the fragments to be glued. As a general rule, the weaker the material of the object and the lighter the weight of the object, the softer the putty can be. Recipes: for soft and medium materials, wax - two parts, harpius - one part. First, wax is heated over low heat, then crushed harpius is poured in a little; for a temporary addition of debris or very soft rocks, melted lard is added, depending on the desire more or less.

For solid objects and mosaics: wax one part, harpius one part. Work in the first and second case with heated putty and object. When the putty cools, it is heated with an iron.

For very hard and heavier objects: putty No. 1, but without fat - 3 parts, pure alabaster, sifted - 1 part

For exceptional cases, where it is necessary to protect against shocks and shaking: wax - 4 parts, harpius - 2 parts, white Tsaregradskaya mastic - 1 part, shellac - 1 part, the components are gradually introduced into the molten wax. Putty is prepared for the future; consumed hot.

If you want to glue a large marble thing, you need to use cements, of which the best is magnesian, used in technical marble work.

There is another series of excellent putties, very strong, built on protein substances, such as: casein, egg white, etc. Casein is that solid part which, together with water and fat, forms an emulsion called milk. If milk is subjected to an oxidation process, fat will be released from above, and water and a white precipitate, the so-called cottage cheese, will be obtained below; this cottage cheese should be well washed from fats and dried at a temperature of 30 °. If the temperature is higher, the curd will dry out easily, and if it is lower, it will not dry out and will be prone to rotting. The result is a fairly coarse-grained grits; large grains must be finely ground; if rinsing has been done carefully, also drying, a good casein glue will be obtained, which can be dissolved in ammonia (called ammonia in the hostel).

If this curd is ground with water and quicklime, an extremely hard putty of exceptional strength will be obtained. But it is clear that such a hard putty, excellent for very hard materials, is dangerous for loose things.

Instead of cottage cheese, you can take another protein substance - egg white mixed with quicklime. It turns out putty, which also has a very high strength, but softer than casein with quicklime. If you take slaked lime, the hardening will be rather slow, but reliable; such a putty is suitable for all kinds of shards.

For gluing, they dry and slightly heat those parts of the objects that need to be glued, quickly apply putty, connect the fragments and tightly bind them. This adhesion will be very strong if the moment of solidification of the protein is not missed, since the lime immediately begins to coagulate the protein, which is why the putty should be rubbed in small portions and not harvested for future use. In order for the putty not to tear very loose materials, some neutral filler is added to it, such as frayed brick or marble.

Preservation for stone things, well leached from salts, consists in protecting them from excessive moisture if they were glued together with gelatin. It must be remembered that sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide are very dangerous for marbles and lime stones, which is why valuable monuments made of these materials under the open sky in big cities can be seriously damaged. To prevent this, they may be treated with a thin layer of bleached wax; this work requires the participation of an experienced marbler or a specialist restorer.

Also, the presence of an experienced marbler is necessary when soldering individual large parts of marble statues, since in this case it is necessary to introduce copper piers into the marble.

Marbles can be washed with neutral (children's) soap foam, then washing off the slightest traces of soap well, which is easily determined by touch. Instead of baby soap you can take a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), but you should not take baking soda due to carbon dioxide, which dissolves the marble. Since any soap, even baby soap, hydrolytically splits off caustic soda in water, fears of a pure solution of caustic soda are unfounded. The action of any fats on marble is very undesirable, since they form on the marble an unpleasant-looking greasy film of lime soap, insoluble in water (but soluble in carbon dioxide). To avoid both caustic soda and soap, you can wash marble with a decoction of a soap root (Saponaria officinals, etc.) or a solution of 2% borax, and finally, a weak solution of ammonia (5-10%).

__________

1 More precisely, a decinormal solution 1/10 N

N - 14.008 O 3 - 48.000,

which gives 169.888, easier than 170 g per 1 liter of water, i.e. about 2%.

Marble is an excellent material for creating beautiful countertops and decorative elements with a mirror surface. When properly stored, it is durable and easy to handle. Marble has the following properties: strength, decorative layering, massiveness.

Marble comes in a variety of colors:

White - used to create sculptures, has a uniform structure
Gray - easy to work and polish for sculptors
Color - popular in the processing of external work. Very rare and expensive colors are blue, pink, black and yellow.

The characteristics of marble can be degraded if various organic compounds are added. Marble is softer than other materials, making it susceptible to oxidation and staining. To prevent negative phenomena on the material, it is necessary to pay attention to the marble product and carry out certain care.

To maintain the perfect appearance of the product, follow these tips:

The elementary use of a soft cloth with plain water will get rid of the dust and dirt that has appeared.
Special detergents without the addition of acids allow you to clean the surface well. The appearance of stains is removed with a certain substance, only the correct selection of the liquid will allow the stain to be removed without consequences. After cleaning, you need to polish the material with warm water
Manji Macia paste from a well-known Italian manufacturer does an excellent job of getting rid of organic stains. As a substitute, you can use ammonia mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The use of soft tissues and warm white water is mandatory
The contact of marble with metal objects inevitably leads to rust. Fresh stains should be removed immediately using a specialized rust cleaner. For maximum effect, please refer to import manufacturers rust remedies. The solution must be removed from the surface in time, otherwise it can deform the stone.

All troubles with marble can be easily removed in case of timely care. For complex measures for the care of a marble product, protective agents are used to cover the marble and ensure its safety from external influences.

We organize the supply of natural marble directly from rocks. Such material meets all the requirements of quality and durable service. The stone is resistant to climatic changes: it is moisture-resistant, frost-resistant and heat-resistant. With proper care, marble will last more than 100 years and will still look as attractive as when you bought it.

With us, you will receive a guarantee of quality services and a high level of products. We carry out deliveries of large volumes of stone, and depending on your tasks, the necessary elements will be selected for you. For our clients, we provide detailed consultations related to the operation and maintenance of marble.

Popular stones

How to Prevent Marble from Decaying and Staining

If you have a marble floor next to your front door, put a rug in front of it. Grains of sand and particles of dirt stuck to your shoes will constantly scratch the floor, so very soon it will fall into a deplorable state.
If you have in the house, do not walk on it in shoes. Whether you like it or not, walking barefoot is the surest way to keep marble intact. The fact. that some dirt will definitely stick to your shoes, grains of sand will get into the sole, all this will systematically destroy the marble surface.
If you have a marble countertop in your kitchen, try using cutting boards to cut your food. Place glass glasses only on coasters, especially wine glasses. Place hot dishes only on coasters, do not remove them from the fire and put them on a stone countertop.
If you have a bathroom, or a shower, wipe the surface with a rubber scraper after each water treatment so that dull soap marks do not deposit on the stone.
Try to wipe the marble daily. The longer the dirt remains on it, the sooner it will eat into the stone. Avoid using soaps and detergents made from processed petroleum products. They will make the stone dull and dull.
You can cover the marble with wax, this will help its preservation. Use only colorless wax and never apply it to white marble - the marble may turn yellow.
Many stains can be removed with an ammonia solution, but try not to use it too often, this will also harm the stone.

Marble processing - daily care

All you need is water, a soft cloth and a piece of suede. Wipe the marble with a cloth soaked in warm water, and polish to a shine with chamois (or another dry cloth, towel). Wash the marble once or twice a year with warm detergent - a mild dishwashing detergent solution will do. After that, rinse the marble again with warm water and polish dry.

If you spill or drop something on the marble, try to clean it up immediately with a sponge or cloth soaked in warm water. Do not leave a stain overnight. If you just spilled wine, wipe it up paper napkin being careful not to rub, otherwise the stain may eat in. Rinse several times with warm water and dry with a dry cloth.

Removing stains from marble

The most important thing in removing stains from marble is to understand the cause of their formation. Be a detective, understand what happens most often in the place where you found the stain, what it could be from.
Make a cleaning compound out of some white (colored ones will leave traces) absorbent material (blotters, napkins, paper towels). Wet it thoroughly with the cleaning solution described below (depending on the type of stain). Spread the cleaning paste over the entire surface of the marble in a layer 6-7 mm thick. Leave it on the surface for a period of 1 to 48 hours, depending on the age and brightness of the stain. Cover the top with a damp cloth and plastic or cling film to keep the mixture from drying out. Attach the film to the surface. (Theoretically, you don't need to cover the stone with a film, then you will have to soak the paste as it dries).

Removal of organic stains(tobacco, tea, coffee, other drinks (excluding juices and wine), leaves, bark, urine and animal droppings).

Such spots leave pinkish marks. On the street, they can gradually pass by themselves, washed out by rain and brightened by the sun. Indoors, they are best removed by bleaching. A mixture of 20% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia will work. Soak your white mixture in this solution, leave to act for 24 hours. At the end of the treatment, rinse the marble thoroughly with warm water and wipe dry.

Removing greasy oil stains(oil, fat, cream, lotions, cosmetics, resin, etc.)

Such spots leave dark marks on the stone. As soon as possible, apply some absorbent powder to the stain - chalk chips or even starch. After a while (as it is absorbed), remove the dirty powder and apply a new one. Leave for 24 hours. Remove the powder with a stiff brush dipped in a hot homemade solution. detergent. Wipe dry and polish. (Alternatively, you can wipe the powder with a rag soaked in ammonia). If, nevertheless, this alkaline version is not strong enough, you will have to use a solvent. Moisten the white mass (as described above) with acetone or amyl acetate (sold in pharmacies), open windows, ensure good ventilation, never use near fire or sparks. Try not to leave too long.

Rust removal.

Rust (brown stains from iron, greenish stains from bronze and copper) usually forms where marble comes in contact with metal lamps, bolts, nails, iron flower pots, etc. Use an industrial marble rust remover. Follow the directions carefully and don't leave it on too long as it's a chemical and can erode the stone. Curly stains from metal are incredibly difficult to remove and can remain on the stone forever.

Removal of vegetable stains in showers and pools(algae, fungi, mould, moss, lichen)

Wipe with a solution of ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. Do not try to mix them together, a chemical reaction will start, in the result of which a deadly poisonous gas is formed!

Removing ink stains(pens, ink, etc.)

Such stains are removed with hydrogen peroxide, nail polish remover or acetone. Be careful, peroxide will work for a light stone, light spots may remain on a dark one! Acetone, on the contrary, is suitable for a dark stone.

Rain spots and encrusted deposits from hard water.

They are removed with a dry thin metal cobweb (this is used to clean pots, just choose the most delicate and thin)

Juice and soda stains.

Such strong irritants destroy the marble (break the shine), so if you spill liquid on the marble, remove it immediately. Rinse the surface and wipe dry. If it is already damaged and the shine is gone, you will have to do polishing.

Cleaning dull marble.

Treat the surface with a special marble cleaner. It is usually either sold in stores or distributed by companies that produce and sell marble.

Marble is a very strong and durable stone. It has a unique luxury and attractive naturalness, however, its safety most often depends on proper care.

Despite its durability and strength, it is a whimsical porous material that reacts sensitively to many factors. environment. Therefore, when ordering the manufacture of any item in the marble interior, you must be ready to provide it with proper care.

Preservation of the original appearance of a marble product requires compliance with the rules for using the item, as well as the use of protective equipment.

Protective equipment.

For marble objects, special protective agents are used that prevent moisture and grease from getting into the structure of the stone and creating microcracks on the surface. Usually, these are water-based products.

Means are applied to the stone in a thin layer. The surface must be dry and clean. It is advisable to check the effect on the stone in an inconspicuous place before applying protection, since marble is unpredictable and stains can still remain on it.

Protection of specific marble products

Certain marble items require additional measures to protect the stone.

A natural stone kitchen countertop is exposed to constant exposure to grease, liquids, drinks, etc. In such conditions, it is very difficult to protect the stone. Cook only with cutting boards and other protective coverings. In no case should you put hot things on marble, you need to make sure that glasses with wine or other liquids are on stands.

It is better to leave a marble window sill empty or put on it only those items that cannot stain it. It should also be treated with products that neutralize the effects of sunlight.

Marble floors also need special care. In front of the front door, be sure to lay a rug that absorbs the main dirt from the street. It is advisable not to walk on the marble floor with shoes on, and to wipe it constantly to remove dirt particles.

Marble in the bathroom quickly becomes dull and loses its attractiveness due to soap marks remaining on its surface. To save appearance natural material, it is necessary to abandon soap products from processed petroleum products and wipe the marble with a rubber scraper after each water procedure. Never clean marble folk remedies or abrasives. To remove light soiling, a mild soap solution or warm water can be used. For serious cleaning, use special products for cleaning marble, having previously tested it on an inconspicuous area of \u200b\u200bthe stone product.