History of handicrafts: Vologda lace. Vologda lace: past, present, future Vologda lace craft

When the word “Vologda” is uttered, an association with lace most often arises. And this is not an accident at all. For true connoisseurs of luxury, Vologda lace means grace and beauty, and all thanks to the openwork airy pattern that is born in the hands of real needlewomen.

What is Vologda lace

Vologda is a type of Russian lace woven with bobbins. The finished lace can be clearly divided into the main pattern and the background. The main ornament (contour) is made large, making it smooth in shape. The line is kept continuously even in width throughout the entire lace.

Product made from Vologda lace

For production you will need:

bolster pillow;
bobbins (juniper or birch);
pins;
chip.

Weaving process

For your information! The origin of the word “lace” is due to the verbs “surround” and “decorate”. The edges of clothes were decorated with elegant ornaments (for example, round collars) or other product. A large number of threads are used for weaving, sometimes up to 100 at a time. Most often it is linen and cotton, but there are also unique products in which silk gold and silver threads are intertwined.

They decorate not only clothes, but also bed and table linen, handbags, as well as scarves, brooches and scarves. Modern fashionistas even decorate their felt boots with them.

History of art

There is a version that the centers of lace art were Italy and Flanders, and it was from there that it came to other countries. Women of all classes have long been engaged in weaving in Rus': noble ladies and commoners weaved openwork patterns. The first mentions of lace making in Russia date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, but only after 1820 did it acquire the character of an artistic craft.

Why was the emergence of this folk craft noted in Vologda? Most likely the reason was the developed flax industry in these places, so local craftswomen did not experience difficulties in the availability of material. In addition, trade routes passed through these areas, thanks to which the craft from Europe gained such fame.

It was near Vologda in 1820 that the first factory producing lace appeared. Thousands of workers - serf girls - worked there. Later, factories began to appear in every district of the province. These factories became the main suppliers of lace to the capital of the country, St. Petersburg and Moscow.

Moreover, each county had its own special patterns and weaving methods. In the middle of the 19th century. A.F. Bryantseva and her daughter Sofia created their own special Vologda lace pattern, unique in ornament and design. Subsequently, they taught this craft to several hundred people.

Note! The heyday of the fishery coincided with the abolition of serfdom. Lacemakers bought for themselves necessary tools for the job, it was relatively inexpensive. They earned up to 20 pre-revolutionary rubles. per year, but also worked without raising their heads for up to 16 hours a day. Girls began training at the age of five. Entire dynasties of lacemakers appeared.

Vologda lace received international awards:

gold medal at the Paris Exhibition of Decorative Arts in 1925;
Grand Prix in Paris in 1937;
gold medal in Brussels in 1958

In 1960, the Vologda lace association “Snezhinka” was founded, whose leading artists were awarded the State Prize of the RSFSR in 1968. I. Repin.

In 2010, in the homeland of lace in Vologda, the Lace Museum was founded, which is housed in a historical building of the 19th century. The exposition includes exhibition halls, a lace cafe, and a classroom where they teach the art of lace making. On the second floor there are eight rooms, in which the history of the appearance of the famous lace is presented in chronological order.

Museum in Vologda

Types of pinned lace

To create Vologda lace, you need to develop a splinter - a pattern or stencil of a pattern, which is called a splinter. According to the technology of creation, there are two types:

paired is the most difficult. For him, the main pattern and the background are woven simultaneously, in pairs, resulting in long strips of lace, which are then measured and cut. When creating lace of this type, the number of bobbins reaches up to 300 pairs;
coupling - the main elements of the pattern are made in the form of a ribbon called a “vilyushka”, and then connected to each other with a crochet hook, forming a lattice. The number of pairs of bobbins ranges on average from 6 to 12.

Hitch lace

Weaving technique

To create a quality product, you need to carefully and responsibly go through all the stages of creating lace. Brief list of stages:

The very first stage is the creation of a chip - a drawing of the future product. This is a very responsible process, which is trusted only to proven masters of their craft, professional artists. The design is applied dotted onto cardboard or thick paper with zigzag lines drawn. The paper is secured to a roller. The roller must be tight so that the design fits tightly and the product turns out smooth and beautiful. On the pin, dots mark the places for pinning.
Winding threads (linen, cotton) onto bobbins, while they are also connected in pairs.
Pins are placed in the places marked on the pin. They are located at characteristic points of the pattern and serve as a frame.
When the pins and threads are ready, the craftswoman begins to toss the bobbins with threads in her hands, thereby entwining the pins.
As the drawing progresses, the pins are moved to another place.

Lace pin

Important! The skill of the craftsman must be such that when looking at the drawing (split) as a plan for future work, she immediately understands how many bobbins will be needed, what weaving techniques need to be used, and whether there will be local thickening of the thread. This is the engineering approach needed to create a unique pattern.

Lace weaving

Pattern elements

The most important pattern of Vologda lace is the snowflake. It is possible that it was these symbols of the Vologda winter that formed the basis for the lace painting that the craftsmen reproduce.

Natural, plant patterns are often used in work. When lace was made to order, the lacemaker tried to make a product with meaning, using the appropriate pattern.

Napkin with a pattern of oak leaves

The pattern with oak leaves meant protection and improved health. The pattern in the form of a spikelet attracted wealth and success to the owner of the lace.

Lace Swan Princess

The plumage of birds also serves as an excellent model for decoration: the swan means chastity, purity; the phoenix bird brings good luck; the peacock often appeared on lace commissioned by noble people.

Lace cat

Geometric patterns, sacred temples, figures of horsemen and girls in kokoshniks, animals (cats, dogs, deer) - everything that surrounds a person becomes a pattern.

Lacy tractor

IN Soviet time Airplanes, tractors, and spacecraft appeared on the lace. Even such elegant things were used to promote the Soviet system. A very good decision, because Vologda lace were popular all over the world.

How to draw a chip yourself

Lace can not only be woven, but also drawn. Even a child can draw a simple pattern for pinning, the main thing is to explain the basic principles.

For independent work, it is better to start with simple product, for example, make a pin for a square napkin. For the drawing you need to take cardboard, preferably white, not very thick. For a beginner, it is better to draw with a simple pencil, then outline with a black helium pen or ink. The chipping is done in life size future product. For beginner lacemakers, it would be a good idea to use graph paper; the pattern can be drawn on it in more detail.

First, you should draw a line on the sheet that forms a continuous pattern without intersections. Then a second line is applied, which repeats all the curves of the original one. Broken lines are drawn between them, repeating the movement of the bobbins, and the points at which the pins will be stuck.

DIY butterfly shard

Lace is called frozen song. Graceful plexus of threads form lyrical and tender images, which reflect the soul of the creators. Creating a unique pattern requires skill and many years of experience, and it’s never too late to start weaving!

Sazonova Adele, student of the 5th "R" class of State Budgetary Educational Institution Secondary School No. 1354, Moscow

Project topic: Vologda lace

Project goals:

Study the history of this type of fishing.

Learn the features of making Vologda lace.

Project objectives:

While studying history, draw the audience's attention to folk crafts

Tell about the origin and use of Vologda lace.

Lace as an integral part of the decoration of dresses and lingerie.

Where is Vologda lace used now?

Working methods: search, selection and analysis of information.

Download:

Preview:

Introduction

Chapter 1. Vologda lace

Conclusion.

Bibliography

Chapter 1. Vologda lace

1.1. Vologda lace as a type of Russian lace.

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace woven on bobbins (wooden sticks). The richness and variety of patterns, purity of lines, measured rhythms of ornaments, high skill - such is his artistic originality. Vologda lace has a special original beauty. The development of the ornamental art of lace was greatly influenced by wood carving patterns, weaving patterns, ancient embroidery, especially openwork embroidery“Vologda glass” with various “snowflakes” and “spiders” on end-to-end backgrounds. This embroidery was mainly used in the Vologda district, and it was in this territory that the craft developed especially intensively. The Vologda lace ornament is characterized by softly curved smooth lines of the design; it is always graphically clear, rhythmic and can consist of geometric figures or generalized plant forms. Floral patterns are dominated by motifs of flexible branches with loop-shaped leaves, trefoils, round or elongated petaled and palmate flowers, fan-shaped motifs, horseshoe-shaped figures, etc.

Patterns on products are usually located around the circumference with wide borders with a free or ornament-filled middle, go along the perimeter of the product, are collected in stripes of different widths, and can be distributed throughout the openwork background. Compositions are often built from mirror-symmetrical motifs, giving the lace austerity and a special static quality. Distinctive feature Vologda lace is a wide variety of background lattices. Poems and songs have been written about Vologda lace, films have been created, and colorful booklets have been published. Vologda lace is known all over the world; for a long time it personified the glory of Russian lace.

The word “lace” comes from “to surround”, to decorate the edges of clothes and other fabric items with elegant trim. Lace making has been known in Rus' for a long time. Women of all classes practiced it. The dresses of kings, princes and boyars were decorated with lace made of gold, silver and silk threads; In folk clothing, lace made from linen yarn was used, and from the end of the 19th century - from cotton threads.

The artistic features of Vologda lace developed already in the 17th-18th centuries. Until the 19th century, lace making had the character of a home artistic craft. In the 20s of the 19th century, a lace factory was founded in the vicinity of Vologda, where dozens of serf lacemakers worked. In the middle of the 19th century, lace making on Vologda soil turned into a craft that was practiced by thousands of craftswomen in different counties. This craft was especially developed in the Vologda, Kadnikovsky and Gryazovets districts. Each of them has developed local features of patterns and weaving techniques, its own range of lace products, but only a subtle connoisseur of this art can distinguish them. The lace industry in the Vologda province reached its peak in the second half of the 19th century. If in 1893 four thousand craftswomen were engaged in weaving, then in 1912 there were almost forty thousand. The fame of Vologda lace has crossed the borders of the country. The fashion for it has spread to many European countries.

A distinctive feature of traditional Vologda paired lace is a clear division of the “structure” of the lace into a pattern and a background. As a result, large and smooth forms of the ornament are very expressively highlighted by a continuous line, even in width throughout the entire pattern. In early Vologda lace, stylized images of birds, trees of life and other ancient motifs characteristic of embroidery of more ancient origin varied as the leading ornament. Today Vologda lace is distinguished by a variety of ornaments, monumental forms and the predominance floral motifs.

The Vologda fishery has received wide recognition both in Russia and abroad. The talent and skill of Vologda artists and lacemakers have been repeatedly noted at many international and domestic exhibitions. In 1937, at the international exhibition in Paris, the Vologda Lace Union was awarded the highest award - the Grand Prix - for the novelty and artistic execution of lace products; at the Brussels exhibition in 1958, Vologda lace was awarded a gold medal. And in 1968, the leading artists of the Snezhinka production association were awarded the State Prize of the RSFSR named after I.E. Repina. The oldest lacemaker K.V. put a lot of imagination, creative work, and high skill into her work. Isakova, famous masters of his business E.Ya. Khumala, V.V. Sibirtseva, Honored Artists of the RSFSR V.D. Veselova and V.N. Elfina. Many of their works are kept in the country's largest museums.

The features common to all Vologda lace in the work of each master acquire an individual coloring. Thus, the works of K.V. Isakova is developing a chamber lyrical direction. Tenderness and warmth of the images distinguish her panel “Deer”, created in 1968. It depicts spruce trees and galloping deer. Measured repetitions of figures, their arrangement in rows, a clear pattern with a relief outline against the background of a light through lattice, like flying snowflakes and the white color of linen threads - all this gives rise to the image of a winter forest immersed in silence.

The creativity of V.D. is diverse. Veselova. A hereditary lacemaker, she perfectly knows all the secrets of lace making, which allows her to create small household items and decorative panels at an equally high artistic level. One of Veselova’s unique works is the “Rook” tablecloth. It combines all the best features of the artist’s work: the poetry of the images, the nobility of the design, the wealth of developments in detail, the refinement of the technical execution of the lace, its indispensable conditioning by the content and nature of the ornament.

The Vologda association received its name in 1964 after the tablecloth “Snowflake” by another outstanding lacemaker, V.N. Elfina. Her work gravitates towards monumental compositions and large forms of ornament. In 1978, Elfina performed the panel “The Singing Tree”. It symbolizes spring and the flowering of nature associated with its arrival, the awakening of life, and the polyphonic singing of birds. The lush Tree of Life is dotted with flowers and birds sitting on it. Dense pattern opposed light openwork background. The combination of gray and white threads gives the panel a silvery tint.

Vologda lace today is primarily the Snezhinka lace company, where professional lacemakers and experienced artists work; this is a vocational school where future lacemakers are trained, as well as institutions additional education, where young Vologda residents get acquainted with the history of lace making and learn the basics of this skill. The Vologda lace company “Snezhinka” is a regular participant in international and Russian exhibitions. The company cooperates with domestic and foreign partners. The most important aspect of the creativity of craft artists is the creation of works for museums and exhibitions. These are mainly panels, curtains, tablecloths. Today we can rightfully say that Vologda lace deserves to be included in the world treasury of lace making.

1.2. Development of lace craft on Vologda land.

In the North, lace probably appeared no earlier than the second half of the 16th century, from the time of the opening of the “northern sea route,” when Vologda became a major trading center, and foreign ships from Europe arrived in the city with goods, including lace. In the 17th century, foreign lace entered the country in large quantities. It becomes a favorite decoration of clothing and household items, a symbol of wealth, nobility and wealth. In the museum collection of the Vologda Museum, the earliest preserved lace also dates back to the 17th century; they are made of gold and silver threads.

In the 17th century, the production of metal lace was organized in Rus', first in the Armory, and later gold lace began to be woven in nunneries, especially in those where the art of facial sewing was developed. There is information that lace was also made in large craft jewelry centers, such as Solvychegodsk.

Metallic lace was woven from spun and twisted gold and silver threads. The strength and elasticity of such lace was given by silk or linen threads, on which metal threads were tightly wound. The price of lace was determined by weight (spools), and not by the complexity and quality of work. Metallic lace (gold) was sewn onto clothes made of dense expensive fabrics; they were used to decorate church items and the clothes of clergy. Common patterns of metal lace were geometric rosettes - “burrs”, “scallops” - motifs in the form of fans, wavy lines - “rivers”, squares placed on the corner (“money”), rectangular corners inscribed into each other (popularly this pattern was called "ship") and tulip-shaped floral motifs. In the 18th century, they began to introduce colored beats into metal lace, which was an exclusively Russian technique.

At the end of the 18th century, thread lace, which came from Western European countries, was in demand in the country. Flemish, Brussels, Dutch lace, French “maline”, “Chantal”, “Brabant”, named after the names of the provinces where lace-making centers were formed, were popular. The fashion for lace contributed to the emergence of lace workshops in the country at noble and landowner estates. At the beginning of the 19th century, the first lace factories were also organized in Vologda. The lace factory of V.A. became famous. Zasetskaya, founded in 1820 in the village of Kovyrino near Vologda. Fashionable patterns of foreign origin at that time, most often German, were taken as a model.

For a long time, lace weaving was a home activity. Since the first quarter of the 19th century, the art of lace making on Vologda soil has developed into a craft. In the 1840s, Vologda lacemaker Anfiya Fedorovna Bryantseva invented a unique technique for weaving piece products, which was called the “Vologda manner.” Her daughter Sofya Petrovna was considered “the first lacemaker of Vologda”; in the 1840-60s, she taught a new method of making lace products to residents of Vologda and surrounding villages. After the abolition of serfdom (1861), peasant women in Kadnikovsky, Vologda, and Gryazovets districts began to actively engage in lace weaving. The Vologda zemstvo made an attempt to introduce lace weaving in Totemsky, Veliko-Ustyugsky, Velsky and Ust-Sysolsky districts. In the Ust-Sysolsky district, lace was woven only at the Nyuvchim factory by local peasant women, but designs and threads were sent to them from Vologda. However, lace craft did not take a leading place in these centers and did not last long. The main centers were formed near Vologda and in the western regions of the region. The lace of Vologda craftswomen was distinguished by a rich variety of patterns, which were popularly given poetic names: chalk, keys, turtle, fan, porcelain, crow's feet, frosts, stars, spider, Ustyanskaya grater, bows, rose, etc. Ornaments were mostly built from simple or complex geometric shapes: “crenate” rhombuses, crosses, squares, “goosebumps”, ovals, zigzags, crossed hooks, stars made of stitches. Kadnikov lace often contains geometric images of birds standing on the sides of a tree, “peahen birds,” and double-headed eagles. All of these patterns are characteristic of measured paired lace, and plant forms of branches and floral motifs were developed in coupling lace.

With construction railway Yaroslavl - Vologda (1872), and later Vologda - St. Petersburg (1906), the lace industry spread especially quickly. Lace was woven in a variety of segments of the population: peasants, townspeople, nuns, as well as women from the families of clergy. According to statistical data in 1912, the Vologda province accounted for 39.5% of all lacemakers in Russia. However, the earnings of lacemakers were low - 20 kopecks. in a day. Earnings 25 - 30 kopecks. was already considered big. Lacemakers who could make pins and sell them earned a little more. The intensive development of lace making by the population of the Vologda province led to the active use of child labor. The work of girls accounted for 20% of the total number of craftsmen employed in production (10), boys aged 7–15 years (11) accounted for 0.9% of the total number.

1.3. Lace as an integral part of decoration for dresses and lingerie.

Vologda lace making dates back to the 16th-17th centuries, but as a craft it has existed since the first quarter of the 19th century. Initially, it is believed that lace originated in Europe, and Italy and Flanders are considered the most ancient centers of lace making. The beginning of the craft dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trims for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones. In 1893, in the Vologda province, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lace making, in 1912 - 40,000. In 1928, a vocational school for lacemakers was created in Vologda. In 1930, the Vologda Lace Union was created. In 1935 - an art laboratory at the Vologda Lace Union. In the 30s of the last century, images reflecting Soviet reality appeared in lace. Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen predominated, later piece products became the main ones - runners, napkins, elegant removable parts women's clothing- collars, jabots, capes, scarves, ties and gloves. Lace was also used to decorate and still decorate dresses, tablecloths, napkins and furniture.

Conclusion.

Studying the material for this project work, I learned a lot of new things about Vologda lace, as well as other types of folk art. I recently visited the homeland of Vologda lace, and I really liked it there. We ourselves wove lace with bobbins and at the end of the excursion we were able to purchase bobbins and a pattern for weaving.

Project executor: Adele Sazonova, student of 5th “R” grade Project leaders: O. O. Koroleva, teacher of Russian language and literature Yarinich L. V., computer science teacher Vologda lace

Study the history of this type of fishing. Learn the features of making Vologda lace. To continue Russian traditions and preserve the artistic heritage of past centuries using accessible means. Project goals

While studying history, draw the audience's attention to folk crafts. Tell about the origin and use of Vologda lace. Lace as an integral part of the decoration of dresses and lingerie. Contents of Vologda lace elements. Where is Vologda lace used now? Project objectives:

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace woven on bobbins (wooden sticks). Distributed in the Vologda region.

Cushion-cushion To make Vologda lace you need: Bobbins - juniper or birch Pins

Pattern. The design is created by a lacemaker or taken from magazines

The beginning of the craft dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trims for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones. History In 1893, in the Vologda province, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lace making, in 1912 - 40,000

In the 30s of the last century, images reflecting Soviet reality appeared in lace.

Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen predominated. Piece products became the main ones - runners, napkins, elegant removable parts of women's clothing - collars, frills, capes, scarves, ties, gloves, etc.

Elements of Vologda lace The basis of the Vologda craft was measured lace. Predominated pair weaving and geometric ornament.

Having chosen one of the well-known motifs (a figure in the form of an angle, an inclined strip with curved ends, a rectangle), they created countless variations of its location in combination with a few other elements. Elements of Vologda lace

In the snow-white patterns of light transparent lace, there are often elements similar to snowflakes and prickly Christmas trees, covered with a white edge.

On November 3, 2010, the Lace Museum opened in Vologda on Kremlin Square, 12. The total area of the museum is 1400 m², and the exhibition area is 600 m².

Internet resources: http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki http://vologdalace.ru/ http://www.cultinfo.ru/decor/material/krugi/ Books: 1. Vera Dmitrievna Veselova. Lacemaker 2. Elfina-Panteleeva Victoria Nikolaevna 3. Magazine “Bobbin” 4. Gallery of Vologda lacemakers List of references

Vologda lace is known for its exquisite beauty and unique patterns far beyond the country's borders. Lacemakers spend many hours of painstaking work with bobbins to weave air patterns and ornaments, creating unique products - napkins, tablecloths, hats, capes, umbrellas, capes and much more.

In the article we will tell you where this type of art came from in Rus', how the work is performed by lacemakers, what a novice craftsman needs to know about bobbin weaving, what materials need to be prepared in order to start making even simple lace items.

The art of weaving Vologda lace requires perseverance, manual dexterity, patience and accuracy in work. Even a small mistake can ruin appearance products. That is why craftsmen use a special pattern called skolok. We’ll tell you how to create it and work with it a little later, but now a few words about the history of Vologda lace.

Traditions

French and Italian masters invented thread weaving back in the 16th century. Such products were brought to our country by Russian princes who were fascinated by airy lace. The tradition of making wicker patterns was continued by craftsmen from the Vologda province. The first mention of Vologda lace dates back to 1820. The serf craftswomen made decorations for clothing and linen for the landowners.

At first, women copied the patterns of Western masters, but over time they began to embody their own in lace creative ideas. The number of masters grew every year, as did the popularity of such art. Factories were opened that produced products for sale in St. Petersburg and Moscow.

The technique of weaving Vologda lace began to be taught in specialized educational institutions and was passed on from generation to generation. Since the beginning of the 20th century, the artists' works have been exhibited at exhibitions in Paris and Brussels and won gold medals at various competitions.

With the advent of the Internet, anyone can learn how to make Vologda lace. Let us also consider the basics of this folk art. First, let’s find out how this lace differs from any other.

Uniqueness of technology

The main feature of Vologda lace is the presence of a clear separation of the pattern and the background. The ornament consists of smooth, wide curves, reminiscent of a ribbon that winds in a continuous line without intersecting anywhere. These can be images of flowers, birds, animals and even coats of arms or temples. The background remains airy, weightless, and very gentle. As a result, the products are voluminous and expressive.

Folk crafts of Vologda lace are recognizable by the weaving of long braid, which is fastened with “hitches” or “lattices”. Their masters perform them separately with regular crochet. Such laces are called "coupling" laces. Drawings using this technique are more varied. These are not only flowers or floral ornaments, but also all sorts of fantastic creatures, geometric figures, images of people and buildings. For weaving, only 6 to 12 pairs of wooden bobbins (thread holders) are used. For woven lace products you will need much more (60 or more).

There are craftsmen - "mernitsy" - who make lace, creating both a pattern and a background at the same time. This is already a “pair” weaving. It is often represented by simple measured pieces of lace. The required amount is cut from the roll to decorate clothes. The patterns in paired lace are simple, mostly rhombuses, triangles, circles and other shapes.

Background elements

There are several options for filling the background for lace:

“Baskets” are parts consisting of dense ovals or squares that fill the voids between the bends of the braid.
“Pleteshki” is a pattern consisting of thin laces woven into an openwork lattice.
The twisted loops on the “braids” are twisted threads that give the background more airiness.

Necessary materials

To work with lace you need to prepare various devices and materials. The threads used are dense and natural. This is cotton or linen.

The main tool for creating the product is bobbins. These are turned or carved wooden sticks, the lower part of which is thickened, and the top has a compartment for winding thread. Each pattern requires a different number of bobbins, so it’s better to buy a whole set (from 60 pieces and above). They are made from maple or apple, spruce or viburnum. Juniper trees will last a long time.

Weaving is done on kuftyr. This is a roller (tube made of fabric) shaped like a cylinder. For convenience, it is located on a stand - a hoop. Fill the roller with straw, sawdust or oat husks.

The finished pattern of a thread pattern is called a skolok. It is drawn on white or colored paper and attached to the roller with pins. Thin "nails" or pins with a bead at the end will hold the threads in place as you work. You will need more than one hundred of them, so don’t skimp on them. Also, to tie the braid with a background, you will need a crochet hook, 0.5-0.8 mm in size.

Pieces of Vologda lace

This is a graphic representation of the future canvas. Without such a weaving pattern it is impossible to make lace. Previously, the entire village collected funds for such drawings, carefully kept them and passed them on from mother to daughter. Now everything is much simpler. A piece of Vologda lace can simply be copied from the Internet and printed on a printer.

For storage, you can attach it to cardboard and put a sheet of tracing paper on top. This will significantly increase its service life, and the white threads will not get dirty during operation. The chip must be life-size. The connection points between the lines in the diagram are where the pins are placed.

How to draw a chip yourself

First, a line is sketched with a simple pencil, which, without intersecting anywhere, forms a continuous pattern. Try to do square napkin. The exact dimensions are not important here, as, for example, when weaving a collar or headdress.

To create an even, wide ribbon, use a poster pen. Trace the line carefully using black ink. This will help you understand how the pattern on the product will look. Then the tape is transferred to another paper through tracing paper using two lines, and traditional broken lines and dots are manually placed between them on which pins will be pinned. Zigzags convey the movement of a pair of bobbins inside the canvas.

Winding thread onto bobbins

Preparation for work includes winding threads onto wooden bobbins. They only work in pairs, but the thread is wound alternately.

Let's take a closer look at how this is done:

Holding one of the paired bobbins in your right hand, press the thread to the narrow place of the wooden stick with your left hand.
A couple of turns are made to strengthen the end of the thread.
Then they perform rotational movements with the bobbin so that the thread is evenly wound over the entire surface of the neck. At this time, use your fingers to check the uniformity of tension and its distribution along the entire length.
3 meters of thread will be enough. At the end, a loop is made on which the stick will firmly hold during operation.
Next, you need to unwind the same number of threads from the skein and cut off the edge with scissors.
Its continuation is similarly wound onto the neck of another stick.
When 20 cm of thread remains between the bobbins, a loop is made and the second stick is securely fastened.

Roller preparation

Before starting work, the chip is strengthened onto the roller. To do this, use thick cardboard that matches the size of the future lace. To prevent it from falling off the jacket, you need to strengthen it with pins on all four sides. Then the chip itself is attached to the prepared cardboard. Next comes the painstaking work of pricking pins into all available points.

Securing a pair of bobbins

The fastening loop ensures free operation of the bobbins in pairs; it firmly fixes the winding. To make it, you need to hold the stick in one hand and pull the thread well with your thumb. The bobbin is wound under it, and the upper part is pulled through the loop to tighten it. All bobbins are strengthened in this way, but the arc is not made long so that the bobbin does not hang below the kuftyr. You need to leave about 15 cm. While working, hold the stick by the middle of the lower handle; do not touch the threads with your hands so that they do not get dirty.

Lace weaving techniques

Before starting work on creating lace, practice the technique of weaving the threads together. A pair of bobbins are hung on a nail from the middle of the thread. Another nail with the next pair of bobbins is attached nearby. Two pairs of sticks with threads take part in the weaving work. All patterns are created by weaving threads together. This happens by dragging the bobbin from one place to another.

Let's look at two basic techniques for working with threads:

Toss or twist. The movement always begins with the right bobbin. The thread from the right side is shifted over the thread of the left stick in a pair. Over time, you should learn to do this movement with one hand, using only your thumb. In job descriptions, such throwing is designated block letter"P". There may be several turns, then the description will indicate “P-P-P”. This means that the thread is thrown over 3 times.
Cross. Indicated in the pattern description by the letter "C". This technique consists of shifting the middle thread of the left bobbins onto the middle thread of the right ones. The outer threads remain even; they are not yet involved in the work. The bobbins are held with both hands, with a pair of sticks in each. This weaving technique is usually performed after throwing. The description will indicate "P-S". Make sure that the movement is from left to right, that is, the thread on the left should lie on top of the thread on the right. Also, keep the same thread tension in all options.

After reading the Vologda lace master class, be sure to try making light pattern, practice winding the thread onto the bobbins, making a fastening loop, throwing and crossing the threads with each other. Over time, learn to complete small tasks. The matter is not very simple, so you will have to be patient. Good luck!

- an ancient form of decorative and applied art. Data from the history of art and writing suggest that lace making was known to the ancient Greeks and Egyptians. At the end of the 15th – beginning of the 16th centuries, it became widespread throughout Europe. Italy occupied first place in this industry for a long time, but after some time it had to give up leadership to France and Flanders.

In Russia, the first information about lace date back to the 13th century. The Ipatiev Chronicle tells how in 1252 Prince Daniil Galitsky received foreign ambassadors in rich clothes with amazing trimmings reminiscent of lace. But they became a noticeable phenomenon in everyday life in Russia in the 17th century. Moreover lace products were common at the royal court, and among merchants and peasants. Only their quality, of course, was different.

The earliest examples of Russian lace making, preserved in museum collections, date back to the 17th century. This is the so-called “golden” lace made of gold and silver threads. They were sold by weight, taking into account, first of all, the value of precious metals, not mastery of execution. These laces were used For decoration outfits made of dense expensive fabrics - brocade, velvet, patterned silk. They were also used for decorating church utensils.

Under the reign of PeterI lace-makers were sent to Russia from abroad. The history of the appearance and development of lace is full of mysteries and contradictions. There is a legend that in 1725 Peter I ordered 250 lacemakers from the Brabant monasteries, to teach lace weaving to orphans in the Novodevichy Convent. How long this training existed in the monastery is unknown. But what’s interesting is that in the samples of lace preserved in different parts of Russia, and in the names of these laces, many old lacemakers pointed to “Draban (i.e. Brabant) thread.”

Lace (fragment)

The fashion for this craft has led to the fact that many wives of Russian nobles began to study techniques for working with bobbins, and organized workshops in their estates where serf peasant women weaved lace. Convents have also become famous for their skill in this matter.. By the end of the 18th century. The artistic features of Russian lace-making centers were formed. Such centers were Vologda, Rostov, Galich, Kalyazin, Torzhok, Balakhna, Ryazan.

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace, woven on bobbins(wooden sticks), common in the Vologda region.

To make Vologda lace you need: cushion cushion; bobbins; juniper or birch; pins; chip. A typical material for Vologda lace is linen, bleached or harsh.

In the 17th century, lacemakers mastered the technique of weaving lace using silver and gold threads made from drawn wire or from a silk core thread entwined with a metal thread.

The beginning of the craft dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trims for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones.

Lace Museum (Vologda). Exposition of the 20th century. Lace “Mausoleum”

During the times of serfdom, in all significant landowner estates of the province there were lace “factories” that supplied lace products to St. Petersburg and Moscow. One of these factories was founded by landowner Zasetskaya three miles from Vologda in the village of Kovyrino no later than the 20s of the 19th century. There, serfs wove the finest lace for finishing dresses and linen, imitating Western European patterns.

Lace Museum (Vologda). Exposition of the 20th century. Lace “Star”

Over time, lace weaving moved from landowner workshops to the people and became one of the types of folk art that reflected the needs and tastes of wide circles of the local population.

This was facilitated by several circumstances: after serfdom was abolished, peasants had a freer choice of occupation, and the demand for lace increased.

Their production brought additional income to peasant families.

It turned out to be very important that the materials needed for weaving lace were inexpensive. Craftswomen do not require specially equipped premises. Lacemakers could practice this craft in their free time from working on land.

In 1893, in the Vologda province, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lace making, in 1912 - 40,000. In 1928, a vocational school for lacemakers was created in Vologda. In 1930, the Vologda Lace Union was created. In 1935 - an art laboratory at the Vologda Lace Union.

In the 30s of the 20th century, images reflecting Soviet reality appeared in lace. Until the 40s. In the 20th century, measured lace for finishing linen predominated; later, piece products became the main ones - runners, napkins, elegant removable parts of women's clothing - collars, jabots, capes, scarves, ties, gloves etc.

In 1960, the Vologda lace association “Snezhinka” was organized. Manufactured are measured lace, bedspreads, napkins, curtains, as well as unique exhibition samples based on sketches by artists (A. A. Korableva, M. A. Guseva, etc.).

Lace “Lukomorye” (fragment)

Vologda lace has repeatedly received the highest awards at exhibitions:

– at an exhibition in Brussels in 1958 they were awarded gold medal Vologda lace curtain “Russian motives”;

– received in 1925 gold medal at the International Exhibition of Contemporary Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris;

- in 1937 they were awarded an award at the Paris Exhibition The Grand Prix.

In 1964 in Vologda they created lace association "Snowflake". It got its name from the famous tablecloth “Snowflake” by V.N. Elfina. However, similar motifs were widely used in lace products and earlier.

November 3, 2010 in Vologda, in the building of the former State Bank on Kremlin Square, 12, The Lace Museum opened. The main exhibition presents more than 500 items telling about the foundation and development of this traditional artistic craft of the Vologda region.

You can get acquainted with specimens of Vologda lace in the Vologda Museum-Reserve, the Vologda Lace Museum, the All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Arts, as well as in the museum of the Snezhinka lace company.

An article about the Lace Museum in Vologda is located

In ancient times, lace making in Rus' was called “female design.” And the most intricate designs came out of the bobbins of Vologda craftswomen. Natalya Letnikova studied the history of the fishery.

Natasha Minton/Lori Photobank

10 facts about Vologda lace.

1. The ancestors of Vologda weaving come from Europe. The first foreign lace - made from gold threads - came to Vologda in the 16th century along the Northern Sea Route. A century later, Rus' began its own production... of metal lace in the Armory Chamber.

2. Mass fishing owes its appearance to serfs. Russian craftswomen began to weave from linen threads. All the landowners' estates in the province had their own mini-factories: they intertwined Moscow and St. Petersburg. A third of all lacemakers in Russia lived in the province.

Nadezhda Glazova/Lori Photobank

3. The French and Germans called lace “top” or “teeth.” In Rus', the craft was called “kruzhivo”: from the word “surround” - outfits with decoration. Or is the name inspired by a northern blizzard? Now no one can say for sure.

4. Wood carving patterns, weaving patterns, ancient openwork embroidery “Vologda glass”. At the heart of the northern lace patterns traditional crafts of the Vologda province began.

5. Snowflake is the main symbol of Vologda lace. Before the lace is woven, it is invented. The craftswomen truly have an engineering mind. Up to one hundred threads are intertwined in one pattern.

Natasha Minton/Lori Photobank

6. The flourishing of the fishery coincided with the abolition of serfdom. The craft is inexpensive. The roller, bobbins and machine cost pre-revolutionary 1 ruble 50 kopecks. Lacemakers earned up to 20 rubles a year, but spent 16 hours a day at the bobbins.

7. Taught lace making from the age of five. As a rule, entire dynasties worked. For example, the grandmother of the State Prize laureate. Vera Veselova's Repina wove stockings and umbrellas by special order of the imperial court.

8. The Paris premiere brought global recognition to northern needlework. In 1937, the Vologda Lace Union received the Grand Prix for novelty and artistic performance. Gold medals were brought to Vologda from Chicago, Philadelphia and the capital of lace - Brussels.

9. “The most popular lace making.” A professional record was set in Vologda by 570 lacemakers who worked simultaneously for two hours. An international event: craftswomen from eight countries - from Australia to Canada - took part in the event.

10. Lace rarities are collected in the Vologda Museum. Among the four thousand exhibits are the first laces made of gold and silver threads that arrived in the province by sea. But the main pride of the collection is the work of Vologda lacemakers, which the storyteller Stepan Pisakhov called “an ice cream song.”