How to sew a blanket using the patchwork technique. DIY patchwork quilt: how to sew for beginners. How to sew a patchwork quilt

Recently, many people prefer to make bedspreads and blankets with their own hands. If you want to sew any item yourself, give preference to the patchwork technique. Quilts made in this style look very attractive and are easy to make. You can make this product from the remnants of fabric of different textures.

Making a patchwork quilt is easy. To do this, you will need a sewing machine, thread, needle, scissors and pins.

It is very important to choose the right fabric for your duvet. Experts advise using a white cotton fabric with a printed pattern. Also, to make a blanket, you will need a synthetic winterizer.

The algorithm for making a blanket is as follows:

1. From a piece of fabric, make squares of the required size.
2. Put the resulting squares on the surface.
3. Sew all squares vertically.
4. After that, connect all the received parts into a single canvas.
5. Make two strips 16 cm wide.
6. Sew the strips to the edges of the quilt.
7. Pin the synthetic winterizer to the top of the blanket with needles. Remove excess fabric.
8. Use 2 pieces of fabric to make a fabric for the lining. Attach the received details to the main canvas.
9. Sew the outline of the resulting product.

Making a patchwork blanket: a master class for beginners

If you are just getting familiar with the technique of patchwork, you can use simpler patterns. To make a blanket according to a simplified scheme, you will need a plain calico, a sheet of padding polyester, shreds of different colors.

First you need to cut at least 50 squares of fabric. The side of each must be at least 21 centimeters. You can combine patches of different colors. This will help you create a unique pattern.

The algorithm for sewing a blanket for beginners is as follows:

• Lay out the squares on any surface. Form a pattern, and carefully consider the composition of the product.
• Start stitching the patches. Sew strips of squares, and then connect them together. Do not forget to smooth the canvas from time to time. This will keep the fabric from shrinking.
• Make the lining for the quilt. Remember to leave small allowances.
• Fold the fabric, filler and lining. Pin the resulting product with pins.
• Sew the quilt along the edges.
• If necessary, attach the trim to the edges of the blanket.

How to sew a patchwork quilt quickly

Many masters working in the patchwork style adhere to the "quick squares" technique. This technology saves a lot of time.

When making a blanket using the quick square method, you will need several chintz patterns. Before starting work, the fabric must be soaked in hot water and then rinse thoroughly. Then starch the chintz, and go over the material with an iron.

The technique for making a blanket from squares is as follows:

1. From 2 pieces of fabric of different colors, cut 2 strips of the same size. Then fold them face to face, and stitch the workpiece along one edge.
2. Then cut a strip of chintz, the size of which should be the same width as the two previous strips combined.
3. Sew the 3rd strip to the first two. Don't forget to put them face to face. As a result, you should get a semblance of a sleeve.
4. Cut the resulting sleeve into several isosceles triangles.
5. Lay the prepared fabric for the wrong side of the blanket (for example, chintz or cambric) on the surface. Lay out the padding polyester and the detail and double triangles on top (in the turn they should have a square configuration).
6. Sew the product around the entire perimeter.
7. Make a quilt edging. To do this, you will need a strip of natural fabric. It needs to be stitched to the blanket, and then tucked up, and stitched again.
8. Treat all edges of the blanket in the same way.

Do-it-yourself double-sided patchwork bedspread

A double-sided patchwork bedspread looks harmonious if your room is designed in country style. To make a bedspread, you will need threads, a sewing machine, a knife, scissors, fabric patterns.

Before starting work, you need to make squares to create a bedspread. If the size of the finished fabric is 1.5x2.3 meters, it is advisable to use square flaps with a side of at least 23 cm. The size of the padding lining for the blanket should be somewhat smaller than the dimensions of the finished fabric.

The sewing technique of the bedspread is as follows:

• First you need to prepare the fabric. To do this, carefully wash and iron the material. If you are using cotton fabrics, it is recommended to starch them.
• After you have prepared the patches, fold the two squares face to face. Don't forget to leave a 1.5 cm allowance.
• Sew two squares.
• Sew another patch to the resulting workpiece. Repeat this procedure until you have a strip of 6 squares. You need to make at least 9 of these strips. After finishing the stitching, iron the resulting workpieces.
• Fold two adjacent strips right side together, and connect them with pins. Stitch the stripes. Repeat this procedure for all strips.
• Put the finished front part of the bedspread inside out to the top, and put the synthetic winterizer on the canvas.
• Sew the lining to the flaps.
• Make a blank from a piece of fabric, the dimensions of which should be slightly larger than the size of the resulting canvas.
• Fix the workpiece with pins, and stitch it.
• Hem the corners of the resulting product.

DIY patchwork blanket (video)

As you can see, patchwork quilts and bedspreads are very easy to make, even if you are just getting acquainted with the patchwork technique. Master class with step by step instructions set out in this article will help you in mastering patchwork. In order for you to get a beautiful product, follow the symmetry of the blocks, and do not neglect the preliminary decanting of the material.

Patchwork blanket (photo)

The patchwork style is a godsend not only for needlewomen, but also for lovers of extraordinary things. This direction has found application in various areas of life - in the manufacture of clothing and footwear, in the design of premises, in the production of furniture and carpets. Today we will figure out how to include patchwork in the interior, get acquainted with the techniques for its implementation and give some interesting patchwork ideas.

A bit of history

Sewing from patchwork - patchwork - an ancient direction of applied art. Even in ancient Egypt, Persia, Africa, India and other countries, the manufacture of textile products from multi-colored pieces of fabric sewn together was widespread.

Kievan Rus was no exception. Our ancestors also highly appreciated the colorful bedspreads, rugs and other interior items made in this technique.

This direction gained the greatest popularity in the 19th century. It was at this time that mass production of bright printed chintz, cambric, calico and cotton was launched. This led to the fact that many needlewomen began to perform bright pillows, towels, carpets, scarves and patchwork blankets.

DIY patchwork: where to start?

If you have a burning desire to try your hand at patchwork, let's decide what you need for this.

• Textile. You can find suitable scraps of matter in any home: rummage thoroughly in a closet or pantry - there you will find the remnants of fabric from tailoring, bed linen, and so on. A variety of fabrics for patchwork are suitable, but it is desirable that materials that are similar in texture and density are present in one product.

• Sketch. If you have experience in patchwork, making it yourself is easy. But if you are still new to this area, it is better to use drawings from specialized magazines or look for sketches on the Internet.

• Lining fabric. Usually, one-color bright matter is suitable for it, which will go well with the color scheme of the front side of the product.

• Scissors, thick cardboard for templates, chalk or a small bar of soap for marking future flaps, pins and a needle and thread for basting.
• A sewing machine for stitching the finished product or a crochet hook with threads (if you use the knitted patchwork technique).

As you can see the list necessary tools quite simple, and you can find it in the house of any craftswoman.

Advice! If you have never encountered patchwork before, and you do not have the necessary tools, patterns and materials, special patchwork kits are available for sale. They include the required number of flaps, templates and schemes.

Interior use of patchwork technique

It is easy to guess that many ethnic interiors are "friendly" with patchwork. In styles such as, Indian, Oriental and some other areas, patchwork products look very organic.

However, not only national and "village" interiors go well with patchwork. Many designers are not afraid to include them in sophisticated styles such as art deco, art nouveau, vintage and so on. Refined armchairs in patchwork technique, as well as small poufs and couches, look great even in baroque.

Strict hi-tech and loft can also be decorated with stylish interior details made in the spirit of bright sewing. Well, kitsch and with their variegation and riot of colors are simply made for a patchwork patchwork.

How can such a direction manifest itself in the interior? First of all, these are all kinds of textile details - curtains and curtains, screens, lamp shades, furniture covers, tablecloths, napkins, mittens, pillows, bedspreads, blankets, bedside rugs and large carpets, wall panels. It is interesting that a set of patches can be made not only from fabric, but also from paper - wallpapers pasted in the form of geometric shapes, intricate patterns and asymmetric patterns look very interesting. flower arrangements on the wallpaper.

Also, when decorating a room in the spirit of patchwork, solid materials can also be used - wall tiles, flooring, tiles and so on.

What types of patchwork exist?

• Traditional patchwork. This direction is based on the game with geometric shapes- most often these are squares, rectangles, rhombuses and triangles, which are sewn into a single canvas. An indispensable attribute of this patchwork technique is the presence of a lining consisting of a single piece of fabric. In the spirit of traditional patchwork, both small interior items (pillows or potholders) and more complex ones (quilts, carpets and bedspreads) are created.

• Crazy patchwork differs from its traditional counterpart in the randomness of patterns that can have any, even the most bizarre shape. As the name implies (crazy means “crazy” in English), the more intricate the patches used, the better. Non-standard applications, wavy lines, the use of beads, beads, buttons and decorative stitches are also welcome. Patchwork bags made in this style look very nice.

• Knitted patchwork implies two options: in the first case, the cloth flaps are connected using a crochet hook and threads of contrasting colors, and in the second, the elements are knitted initially. To make this type of patchwork bedspread or any other large product will take a lot of time, but the result will be amazing.

Knitted patchwork - great decoration home for those who appreciate vintage accessories and unexpected combinations

Sewing a good blanket with your own hands is not a particularly difficult job, but painstaking. What is attractive with her is that, having saved a considerable amount, even a novice craftswoman will be able to get a thing that literally surpasses the purchased ones in everything, and also unique. Try to determine where in Fig. expensive factory blanket. And how does it compare to the rest.

All homemade products in fig. completed in different types patchwork techniques, and for good reason. Most homemade blankets are patchwork. Sewing a patchwork quilt with your own hands will take a lot of time, but it will give great opportunities for creative self-expression and means additional savings: if you are not a professional home-based seamstress and you do not accumulate scraps of fabric, then its waste can be purchased at any sewing factory by weight and inexpensively . In Skillful Hands, Everything for Creativity stores, etc. already sorted by colors, colors and types of fabric, patchwork sets are sold specifically for sewing using the patchwork technique; they cost more than industrial waste, but not at times. Therefore, most of the material in the article is devoted specifically to patchwork quilts, although we will also linger on smooth, modular and wicker quilts.

Dimensions

Since it is understandably difficult to make a bed to a blanket or to fit it to it, the tailoring of a blanket is carried out according to the size of the bed. If your bed(s) are commercially available, then blankets in one of the following sizes will fit it/them:

• Euro - 210x200 or 200x200 cm.
• Double rooms, depending on the height and build of the couple - 210x180 (small thin people), 215x175 (chubby short men), 200x200 (medium height and build), 220x240 (large).
• One and a half - 215x155 or 205x150.
• Single - 200x150.
• Children's - 150x120 (preferably for boys) or 140x110 (more girlish).
• For newborns - in the size of the changing table plus 12-15 cm in each direction. Typical size 120x120 cm.

The dimensions of the blanket for the existing bed are selected so that its edges (fringe, lace, frill, ruffle) on a made bed without lying do not reach the floor by 12-15 cm, otherwise the edge of the blanket will get dirty. Also, a blanket on a free bed should not stray at the legs or heads, otherwise the insulation will crawl. The size of the blanket determines the amount of materials needed for tailoring.

Design

Sewing a blanket is elementary simple only at first glance, and this applies not only to its quilting, which will be discussed further. Have you tried washing your sweaty blanket? Say, after a flu? If yes, then you know that it does not always fit into the machine and how heavy it is handwash. And what your work can turn into after it, which may have required several months of busy evenings. So let's see how best to sew a blanket, so that later there will be less and less hassle with it.

The blanket, as you know, consists of a lining (underside), an insulating liner and a tire. So that the insulation does not crawl and does not go astray, the entire cake is either quilted, or the lining with the tire forms a duvet cover into which the liner is placed. The latter option, due to the efforts of advertisers pushing expensive products, has not been very popular lately, but for a home-made patchwork blanket, it is advisable to consider it first of all, because. in this case, most of the problems with washing the blanket and replacing the insert disappear. The liner always wears out faster than the tire, and washing the tire with the underside without it is equivalent to washing 2 sheets. If the window under the liner in the middle of the tire is undesirable for design reasons, then in the legs you can make a wide armhole from the lining fabric with an inner pocket-fold, like in a pillowcase. This, by the way, completely removes the problem of the eversion seam; any seamstress will immediately understand how much easier tailoring is.

There is only one “but” in a blanket with a removable insert: if the bed is without a footboard, then the insert will stick out the pocket and the lining fabric will be in sight. This can be avoided, without resorting to the same visible and hard fasteners of any kind, by using a wide border and/or choosing an appropriate lining material (see below). And once again, by the way, a blanket with an insert can also be a summer non-insulated one. But we again ran into materials.

materials

The cover of the blanket can be any, as long as it does not affect the skin and looks good. Blanket covers for newborns, as well as camping, country hammock, etc., used outdoors, are best made from raincoat fabrics. The cover of a thick winter blanket is made of thin furniture upholstery. For the durability of the blanket, it is very important that the tire be stronger than the lining; in addition, such a solution will allow you to fit a blanket into the interior of the bedroom. But with a lining and an insert, things are a little more complicated.

lining

Cotton linen, satin or twill are most often used for lining; in expensive models silk. Cotton textiles are good for everyone, except that they get dirty easily, get sweaty and wipe out pretty quickly. Therefore, cotton lining is made in blankets for children and babies born in the warm season; for the lining of a blanket for a winter-born, it is better to take coarse calico or a bike. In the era of diapers, the problem of moisture resistance from the inside, thank God, is not relevant.

Satin, twill and silk are light, durable, completely vapor-permeable, do not accumulate dirt. But - slippery. Someone likes it when a blanket caresses the body, while someone, on the contrary, tosses and turns in pajamas under such, trying to fall asleep after all. In addition, blankets with a slippery lining are not recommended for dormice sleepers: they slip, stray.

In this case the best choice there will be a bamboo cloth: cotton or viscose with the addition of the finest bamboo fibers. What they write about its supposedly miraculous for health and unique thermal properties is an utter lie. What can you do, marketers are people, to put it mildly, peculiar. If the boss strictly forbids them to embellish under the threat of life excommunication from corporate parties and bonuses, their breath will simply stop and will not open again. However, even without forcible pushing, a bamboo canvas has many real advantages:

1. Hypoallergenic, antistatic.
2. Feels like cotton.
3. Wear resistance is an order of magnitude higher than that of cotton and almost the same as that of silk.
4. High vapor permeability and very low duty cycle for solids; simply - allows sweat to evaporate freely, without accumulating dirt in itself.
5. High mechanical strength.
6. It stretches even weaker than silk: if you make a lining of bamboo linen in a blanket with a removable insert and an armhole with a pocket in the legs, but the wrong side will not come out. In any case, a frill 5 cm wide is enough so that the underside of the blanket never shows up.

Insert

Blankets are most often insulated with synthetic fibrous materials: synthetic winterizer (base - silicone, pos. 1 in the figure) or holofiber (propylene base, pos. 2). It is convenient to stuff the pillows of modular blankets (see below) with sintepuh, pos. 3. This is the same synthetic winterizer, only not in sheets, but in the form of shaggy granules. To insulate blankets, sheet synthetic winterizer and holofiber are taken with a density of 150-200 and a thickness of 5-8 mm.

A blanket with a synthetic winterizer insulation is lighter and cheaper than a holofiber one, but the synthetic winterizer becomes compressed faster from washing. Both of these materials are warm, extremely light, harmless, incl. for small children, but their own moisture capacity is small, i.e. they easily sweat and dampen. Because non-woven materials, blankets with liners from them must be quilted, otherwise the insulation will quickly get stuck in a lump. And the stitch of a blanket on a synthetic winterizer requires special methods of work, because. he is how many and crawls between the lining and the tire, but at the same time he willingly clings to the needle and thread.

A fleece blanket insert, the same one used for sewing jackets and warm underwear (item 4), is somewhat heavier and more expensive, but in return it has a lot of advantages. Fleece is a fabric, so to speak, for outdoor use, durable, warm and resistant. Its vapor and moisture permeability is heterogeneous: from the fluffy side to the dense one, it is good, but on the contrary, it is low, i.e. it will absorb sweat and release it outside, and it will be difficult for coffee spilled on the blanket to seep into the body.

Fleece does not creep and almost does not stretch. The quilt insert can be made replaceable from it and not suffer with quilting, or you can quilt a blanket with a non-replaceable liner according to a simplified, much less laborious scheme, see below. In the latter case, the blanket can be washed without any: fleece, as a woven material, can be completely washed.

The author of this publication last autumn took and replaced the jacquard camel blanket with an insert made of linen fleece (it is cheaper than a jacket); it took only to sew the cuts along and make an overlock. And what? The blanket became lighter, but warmed no worse in winter. And in the off-season, when the heating was already turned off, it was still too early to turn on the air conditioner and the temperature in the apartment jumped from below the sanitary standard to +27, it was equally comfortable under a blanket with a fleece insert. And for your information: a jacquard blanket made of natural six Khakass camels 210x250 in size at current prices will cost about 3,000 euros. Although demolition, of course, is not and is not expected in any conceivable and unthinkable operating conditions.

Patchwork

A patchwork quilt has long been sewn as a dowry for marriageable girls, and by no means out of poverty, but as evidence of their perseverance, diligence, skill and artistic taste; hawthorns and princesses were also engaged in sewing blankets from scraps. In the West, the latter, already in marriage, often also wove tapestries, with which the wife of William the Conqueror went down in history: her creation depicts the history of the conquest of England by the Normans.

With the beginning of Soviet power, war was declared on patchwork quilts as mercilessly as on churches. With the filing of notorious comrade. Inessa Armand and Alexandra Kollontai. The reason for such intolerance can be understood if we recall the last “glass of water theory” and the following from it. famous slogan 20s of the last century: “Komsomol member should not refuse a Komsomol member!”. In what - tt. Kollontai and Armand were sanctimoniously silent, but the ugly Komsomol orgies date back precisely to those times.

By the way, comrades convinced party members did not miss their own. At any party meeting, the activists with serious faces, but with burning impatience in their souls, waited for the “sixth question”. It was customary to consider 5 questions “on a piece of paper” at one Pars meeting, and the “sixth question” was a drunken bacchanalia after.

"Promising" Komsomol activists were often involved in the "consideration of the sixth question" if they were available. Of the current activists of an openly Nazi persuasion, one can find at least 10 different degrees of fame, during which they labored in this hypostasis and firmly believed in a great bright future. His own for sure and only on his natural data, without any outstanding abilities, great works and accomplishments. And then suddenly on you - perestroika, revelations, a turning point and a complete bummer of a career. Well, how can you not be completely freaked out? However, let's put an end to what sometimes happens under the covers and return to the blankets as such.

Styles and compositions

The most labor-intensive, but also most valued blankets, sewn from any patches and scraps. It took years to work, and to put together this chaos so that it looks, you need remarkable abilities. For a patchwork quilt in the style of chaos (item 1 in the figure) in England, for example, connoisseurs give up to 8,000 pounds or more.

From cutting, wedges and strips most often remain. The first, as if by themselves, ask for a spiral composition (pos. 2), and patchwork quilts are sewn from the stripes in the style of a zebra or a stream, pos. 3. The latter are valued almost on a par with chaotic ones, as somewhat less laborious, but more spectacular.

Modular

Modular (block) quilts differ from "true messy" quilts in that the quilts are sewn into geometrically regular modules, which are then cut to a pattern (see figure on the right). This simplifies and speeds up the work at times, but the value of the product in the eyes of connoisseurs is reduced, because. is determined already mainly by the artistic merits of the blanket. Therefore, blocks are most often sewn square. 5, 6-gons, and other shapes that are compatible without gaps greatly complicate the work, and if the blanket wins spectacularly, then a little.

Blankets in the style of "block chaos", pos. 4 in fig. higher, more amateur, tk. their labor intensity is relatively low. At auctions in the middle price segment, block-prefabricated patchwork quilts in the style of arable land (pos. 5) and a vegetable garden, pos. 6. They are named so because they are somewhat similar to aerial photographs of this type of terrain. Also medium, but taller, quilts in the style of a patchwork meander are quoted, pos. 7, block-geometric, pos. 8 and 9, as well as chess, pos. 10, if they are made with taste and fiction.

Note: all block-prefabricated patchwork quilts can be sewn so-called. eversion, with transverse, longitudinal or those and other seams between the blocks on the face, pos. eleven.

Patchwork

Block-modular patchwork is already the birth of the patchwork technique and its variety of quilting (not to be confused with paper quilling!). In a prefabricated patchwork, modules (blocks) are sewn together, as in simple patchwork, and when quilting, they are sewn onto a solid base. Fundamentally, patchwork differs from simple patchwork in that the patches are pre-selected and prepared for the product. For example, in patchwork kits, the patches are often already cut to size and are sold in kits for a specific item with the application of sewing and assembly patterns.

It is not for nothing that the patchwork technique has gained worldwide popularity: it can be used at home to create truly masterpieces of sewing art in almost any national and / or traditional style; see some samples in the photo. The most commonly used geometric assembly of blocks correct form, but variants of a zebra, a stream, a wave, etc. are also possible. Patchwork does not accept visible chaos, its pattern is always semantic and organized in a certain way. If simple patchwork is closer to abstract art in the fine arts, then pavork is already a full-fledged modern.

Abstractionism is not devoid of deep meaning, but apart from an outstanding master, it also needs an equally knowledgeable spectator-connoisseur. Therefore, abstraction is easily faked by empty mediocrity. Modern is also devoid of rigid canons, but it clearly shows its essence and almost everyone is able to distinguish success from useless attempts in it. This is the second important reason for the popularity of patchwork.

Schemes and blocks

The standard dimensions of the patchwork block are from 10x10 to 30x30 cm in 5 cm increments. Simple circuits patchwork blocks, such as angular spiral and ladder, you can make it yourself on checkered paper, see fig .; numbers indicate the numbers of fabric colors according to the selected samples. The size of the block is obtained based on the smallest allowable width of the pattern element along the face, equal to 1.5 allowances for the hem, i.e. for most fabrics 15 mm (see below for sewing techniques).

How to work with diagrams

Searching for “quilting blocks”, “patchwork blocks”, “quilting blocks”, “patchwork blocks” brings up a lot of samples. But these will be either simplified schemes with a letter indicating the levels (upper part in the figure), or simply samples of pattern elements (below in the figure), on the basis of which it is necessary to develop patterns in size and arrange the available patches by color.

The development of a complete scheme of a sewing product using the patchwork technique is carried out in stages as follows:

• On checkered paper, life-size schemes of selected blocks are built;
• According to the schemes, fabric samples are laid out until the desired aesthetic effect is obtained. It is advisable to operate immediately with all selected blocks, so it will be easier to achieve a general visual effect;
• The paper blank of each block is made in the amount necessary for sewing the whole thing;
• On paper charts colored markers approximately mark the selected colors;
• Paper blanks are laid out in natural size and the overall effect is assessed;
• If some block / blocks aesthetically “do not climb”, we repeat paragraphs. 1-3;
• When a thing looks like it should, selected blocks are numbered or lettered so as not to be confused with the numbering of fabric samples;
• A complete drawing of the product is drawn (see samples in the figure below) with dimensions, numbering of fabrics and blocks.

The last point is a stumbling block for beginner/patchwork lovers and is often overlooked. And then it turns out that the “mow flooded” (mowing went on in geometry and color), and it is very difficult to find where the germ of a flaw lurks in the confusion of these simple figures.

About schemes for children

Additional requirements are imposed on the development of schemes for children's things in the patchwork technique, due to the peculiarities of the not yet fully developed children's vision and psyche. A patchwork baby quilt, for example, should be designed as follows:

1. Large blocks are undesirable, it is better to work in a 10x10 cm module.
2. Small details of the pattern should not flicker; complex curvilinear contours should preferably be avoided.
3. Larger meaningful blocks (filled with a picture) should be alternated with smaller background ones.
4. Repetitions of the same meaningful block in the longitudinal and transverse rows are not allowed.
5. Bright, saturated, flashy colors are also unacceptable.
6. The background color in quilting must be maintained in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greatest sensitivity of children's eyes: pale yellow, light green, pale blue.
7. Very, very desirable is the symmetry of the pattern about the longitudinal axis with an odd number of longitudinal rows, i.e. should be center row.

An example of correct circuit construction baby blanket- patchwork is given in fig. Module - 10x10 cm. Full size(170x130 cm) is designed for growth. The pattern of meaningful blocks may be different, satisfying the above requirements.

Technology

Trimming flaps

This is a preparatory, but very time-consuming and responsible operation; the allowance must be given at least 7.5 mm, otherwise the tire seams will spread later. For cutting patches to size and shape in stores (sewing, "For creativity", "Skillful Hands"), cutters and boards with a self-tightening coating are sold; a coordinate grid is applied on their front side. The coating is rough, the fabric is held on it.

The cutter can still be replaced with safety razor blades (3-5 per blanket), but if you are sewing a patchwork quilt in the style of chaos or from randomly typed blocks, then it is difficult to find a replacement for a “self-healing” plank. Scissors can only be obtained by experienced cutters, and plywood and cardboard are quickly cut off with a cutter until they are completely unusable.

If you are working in the patchwork technique, when quite a lot of identical fragments are required for one thing, things are easier. Now is the time to hide the faithful, unless he is stuck tightly to beer with football: cutting templates need to be cut out of plywood in the form of 2 completely identical halves with wings on the allowance. The flap-blank is inserted between them (on the left in the figure), and the halves are combined. This is not difficult, because the edges of the halves of the template are easily felt through the fabric. Then the template is compressed with fingers or a small carpentry clamp.

A special cutter (not cheap, by the way) is not needed for such a template: even a very thin and “pulling” fabric is cut off exactly razor blade. For example, just one such compound template is enough to cut patches for a very effective flick-flac quilt (on the right in the figure).

Tailoring and edging

Sewing the flaps together and sewing the cover of the blanket from blocks, as well as its edging, do not have significant differences from other sewing works. The size of the allowance and the minimum allowable size of the workpiece are indicated above; simplest way edging - oblique inlay. About everything else for beginners, we offer a selection of videos:

How to sew flaps:

Master class on sewing a patchwork quilt with your own hands:

Quilt edging in patchwork technique:

Quilting

Quilting a warm blanket with a non-replaceable insert is an operation that is even more responsible and time-consuming than preparing fragments. It is better for beginners not to remember about curly stitch (wave, leaves, scales, etc.). The figured stitch of blankets is made by weight: the pie blank is unrolled horizontally in the frame, and along the seams marked in advance on the tire, all 3 layers of materials are fixed with pins. Simple straight pins are best. Pieces of cork are pierced on their points, they hold the cake tightly and protect it from pricks.

Once curly stitch was done by hand, now special sewing machines are used for it without a table and with long consoles movable in 2 directions. It occupies a large room. We would like to get by with a regular sewing machine. Better, of course, a machine with a walking foot, but such roads. It will be much cheaper to buy or make yourself (for him, not for you) a special quilting foot for a regular sewing machine, see for example. track. video clip:

In any case, the working techniques for quilting a blanket are as follows:

• By marking the seams, the cake is fixed from displacement of the layers with safety pins.
• With spread fingers of the right hand, spread the cake over the entire thickness directly in front of the foot. If the liner is sintepon, this requires a solid skill.
• The folded fingers of the left hand pull the material behind the foot. Here, too, experience and a sense of material are needed in order to pull exactly in time with the supply of fabric with a grab (teeth). I didn’t reach it - the puff was wrinkled and / or the seam was gone; overtightened - the thread is tangled, the needle is stuck or broken.

Note: The thread for quilting a blanket should be taken with a smooth and durable polyester No. 40 or No. 50.

Quilted blanket - patchwork is usually quilted so-called. free stitch, see e.g. video tutorial:

In general, for slippery liners made of synthetic winterizer and holofiber using a conventional sewing machine, a linear-diagonal stitch pattern is recommended (on the left in the figure below):

• From the center to the short edges, they are quilted across.
• Then the same - from the center to the long edges.
• Also from the center - diagonally to the corners.
• From the middle, parallel to any of the diagonals, alternately on one side and the other - to the opposite corners.
• The same, from the other diagonal to the remaining 2nd corners.

Linear-diagonal stitch does not get rid of the flaws that are inevitable when stitching on a conventional machine, but drives them to the edges and corners where the cake can be trimmed. Therefore, if the blanket is quilted in this way, its edging and bordering are done last. If the blanket has a fleece insert, then the matter is again greatly simplified: then the blanket can be quilted with an envelope (on the right in the figure); the step of expanding the rectangles is from 10 to 25 cm (for fleece).

Other blankets

For the little ones

An ordinary blanket for a newborn needs to be sewn, as mentioned above: size 120x120 cm, summer lined with cotton linen; winter - flannel, calico or bike. The tire is made of raincoat fabric, the insulation is definitely synthetic winterizer: the holofiber is rough, the fleece is heavy, and the synthetic winterizer will last up to 2-3 years. Quilting is obligatory, but the technological “harmfulness” of the synthetic winterizer in this case will not do much harm, because. the thing is small and not for show.

In the wake of the general enthusiasm for transformability (oh, if only - a cucumber core in a full glass ... a joke), "advanced" mothers are also actively interested in blankets for newborns - transformers. But what is interesting here is that the original publication (see fig.) begins with the word “theoretically”, and then it is emphasized that the meaning of this innovation is mainly economic.

What prevented the author of the idea from showing enthusiasm? Zippers. Imagine that your blanket has zippers on the side and in the heads. And you wake up with prints on your side. Or, worse than that, the clasp has moved and pinched your hair or something. And what, in this case, will be small with its thin delicate skin?

In general, this is not the case when ergonomics can be sacrificed for functionality. Not to mention the moral significance of the thing. There are patents for wedding rings with nail clippers and a beer cap key, but what's the point of them? If you really want to save a little at the birth of a baby or put your hands on for the sake of his things, then it would be better to sew the most ordinary envelope for an extract from the hospital; the pattern is given in fig. It can be saved and shown later to the child: look, here you once fit all.

Modular

How a modular blanket is arranged and sewn / knitted is shown in fig. Its advantage is technological simplicity, no eversion seams, precise cutting and fitting. But in general, this option is more of a bedspread on the sofa: if it’s cold in the bedroom, then it cools the body in the gaps between the pillows.

Rug, blanket or blanket?

And finally, one more blanket: from pompoms. It belongs to the type of woven blankets. It requires quite a lot of yarn, but it is effective, warm, “breathes” well and is technologically very simple, you don’t even need to know how to sew or knit. You can make a pom-pom blanket in an evening.

How a pompom blanket is made is clear from fig. It can be added to it that for warm clothes, threads at the intersections need 80-120 each, i.e. 50-60 in each transverse and longitudinal beam. Accordingly, the nails must protrude at least 100 mm. More threads in a bundle are made for a blanket and a rug, then the distance between the nails should be taken 3.5-4 cm.

It is best to weave a pompom blanket on a frame, and not on a board: it is more convenient to tie up the crosshairs of branches, and the frame can be disassembled and hidden. On the board in a city apartment, you can only weave a cape on a stool, and on a frame in an ordinary living room and a double blanket.

The tails of the knots connecting the crosshairs of the bundles of threads are left on the front side (where the pompons will be). Usually, 1/4-1/3 of the bundle is left on the base, i.e., after winding 12-20 threads, they switch to another color. 3/4-2/3 of the bundle are cut, respectively, and pompons are formed. The edge bundles are cut last when the panel is fully formed.

Pompom floor rugs are usually made in other ways, because if you just put the product described on the floor, then the ligation of the bundles will quickly rub off and the entire rug will fall apart. If you do not want to fool around, making pompoms separately, then this pom-pom coverlet needs to be sewn to some kind of wear-resistant lining. It will be good to arrange it artistically, like the one in fig. on right. Girls sometimes just fall in love with such rugs. And they even secretly drag them to their bed when they feel that their parents are no longer up to visiting again before going to bed.

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First, determine which fabric will be the main one (it should be 4 times more than any other). Wash, dry and iron each piece of fabric well.

Now let's start cutting. Cut the fabric into strips 10 cm thick.

We sew, we iron.

Cut into blocks of 16 cm.

We start assembling the blanket. Preferably on a flat horizontal large surface. This may be the floor (but in the room that is least prone to patency and there is no access for children and animals). First, lay out the blocks with a slope (to the left down of the main color 6 pcs), and then to the left up, and also 6 pcs.

We continue row by row in the same way. It is desirable to lay out the main tone equally in each row.

Here you already have a future blanket. It needs to be stitched.

To do this, from the upper right corner, we begin to sew together, first, small blocks lying next to each other, and then, diagonally.

So we sew the whole blanket.

We iron again.

Now we cut off unnecessary corners around the entire perimeter. Sew on interlining and lining. We quilt a blanket. We sew the edges.

That's it - the zigzag patchwork quilt is ready!

The material is taken from the Knitlu self-made siteThanks to the author for the ideas!

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Video Tutorial Patchwork-Stitches

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There are different methods of accelerated assembly of blocks. But if you are assembling blocks from different small pieces of fabric, then the assembly method on interlining will probably be the most effective. In this way, you can assemble a panel for a bag or pot holder, in a word, everything where you need to achieve the accuracy of matching corners. This method is suitable for assembling blocks from squares, i.e. where there will be seams in two directions - first horizontal, then vertical.
	1. We need interlining (the thinnest one will do) with one adhesive side. We line the grid on the non-adhesive side according to the number of required squares. If in finished product we will have squares 5 by 5 cm, then by adding another 1 cm to the seams on each side, we get a grid on the non-woven fabric with a side of each square 7 cm. Thus, the non-woven fabric should be 35 by 35 cm.
	2. Usually 1 cm is enough for an allowance, but if the fabric is thick or very loose, then perhaps 1.5 cm can be left. But I'm used to sewing along the edge of the foot, so I make an allowance from this calculation. A dotted line is visible on this grid - this will be the line of the future connecting seam.
	3. The squares cut out of the fabric (necessarily with an allowance!), Put them on the adhesive side of the interlining and iron them. Note that the squares did not join exactly at the butt, this is not scary, it will even, perhaps, be easier to move on to the next operation when it will be necessary to bend the interlining along the marking lines.
	4. Next, we bend the first row on the second along the grid marking line ( front sides to each other) and make a line along the interlining according to the marking of the allowance (or focusing on the edge of the foot).
	5. And in this way we sew all the horizontal rows. Here I already ran ahead and ironed the first seam. I really wanted to see what happens...
	6. Cut off the fold edge with a roller knife or scissors. We iron out the seams. In the same way, we make vertical seams: fold with the front sides, sew one row, the second ..., cut the edge again and smooth it.
	7. Everything, the canvas is assembled and the corners are connected perfectly.
	8. Here is what the block looks like from the inside. The advantages of this method: fabric sections are reinforced with interlining (and if you have woolen or loose fabrics, this will be very important); line is made on white interlining, which is much more convenient than on multi-colored fabrics; we easily achieve the accuracy of connecting corners; while reducing the number of individual seams. And if you have a roller knife, a special mat and a ruler, then everything becomes even simpler and faster. http://www.dublirin.com.ua/work_teh_rapid.html

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patchwork course

WHAT FABRICS ARE SUITABLE?
It is better if the fabrics are of the same quality. For beginners, cotton fabrics are ideal: products made from them are easy to wash, and most importantly, cut and sew. Choose drawings according to your own imagination. But for starters, it’s better to choose fabrics with a pattern in the same tone and combine them with plain fabrics. It is very important to cut off all the edges from them before starting cutting fabrics.

WHAT YOU NEED FOR MARKING AND CUTTING
plastic templates
Pencils and markers
Ruler
knife cutter

WHAT YOU NEED FOR MEASURING AND CUTTING
cutting mat
Round knife-cutter (with a blade in the form of a rotating wheel)
Raster rulers
pins
Scissors

WHAT YOU NEED TO SIT AND EDGE
Thimble
Pins with heads
safety pins
Paper clips or clips
Pencils
Sewing needles
SIMPLE GEOMETRIC PATTERNS can be cut out using a regular raster ruler. For more complex shapes, use plastic templates instead of paper templates. They are not only more durable, but also transparent, so you can easily see the pattern on the fabric through them. On sale, you can sometimes also find templates with ready-made markup for geometric patterns.


Fold the ironed fabric twice in the longitudinal direction so that four layers are obtained (the folds should run parallel to the edges). Lay the fabric on the cutting mat with the cuts facing to the right. Place the raster ruler at a right angle to the fold and trim the fabric sections. Unfold the fabric and check if the cuts are straight. In extreme cases, repeat the operation.

Rotate the rug together with the fabric by 180 °, now the cuts should be on the left. Measure a strip of fabric. To measure, use the vertical scale on right side rulers. Cut off 3-4 strips. Turn the mat over again and trim the cuts. To get rectangles or triangles, cut the resulting squares accordingly.

Fold two pieces face to face and sew along one side. Experienced craftswomen grind off the patches with one seam, without cutting the threads and without raising the foot of the machine. Attention: with this method of sewing, several stitches appear between the squares that do not grab the fabric.

FOLDING PATTERNS
When sewing shreds, be sure to iron the allowances on a darker fabric. To get a square block of scraps, simply sew together two already stitched square scraps so that the patches from different fabrics are staggered.

FOLDING PATTERNS
You can get stripes from patches in the following way: stitch squares from four square colored patches and rectangles or squares from plain fabric in a checkerboard pattern. After that, stitch again in a checkerboard pattern (with an offset) separate rows of shreds.
In the next photo, you will see that on the bedspread, each inner row consists of plain squares and blocks of four multi-colored patches.

FOLDING PATTERNS
When the central part of the patchwork product is ready, start sewing the borders. The perimeter of the central part of the product determines the total length of the border. Usually, borders sewn to the sides of the central part are ground off with an “envelope corner”. The length of the border for each side is calculated as follows: the length (or width) of the central part of the product + double the width of the border (for the “envelope corner”) + seam allowances. When stitching the border to the side of the central part of the product, finish the seam, not reaching 6 mm from the corner. At the corners, sew the fabric at an exact 45° angle. Cut off excess allowances, iron the remaining allowances on the border.

QUILTING
Patchwork quilted products consist of three layers: upper and lower (from patches, or, alternatively, the upper one is made of patches, the lower one is made of plain fabric) and the inner layer (volumetric, which gives the product a special relief when quilting). Before connecting all three layers, carefully iron the top and bottom sides. Lay the bottom side face down and secure to the surface with masking tape. Lay the inner part and the upper side (right side up) on the bottom, evenly smooth and fix from the center to the periphery at intervals of 20 cm with safety pins. If you are going to quilt the product by hand, then sweep all three layers along and across with seam intervals of 15 cm, removing the pins one by one. Only after that, with a thin pencil, draw quilting lines on the upper side of the product.

STITCHING WITH A SEWING MACHINE
Make sure that the top and bottom sides do not slide against each other. To do this, insert the special, raised foot of the machine. Always sew from the center to the periphery, otherwise waves will appear on the product. So that the seam on the product is almost imperceptible, but a beautiful structure appears, scribble exactly into the seam when sewing patches. At the end and beginning of the seam, make bartacks: lift the bobbin thread up and sew a few stitches of the smallest size. The optimal bartack length is 7 mm. After you complete the bartack, trim the ends of the threads. Tip: during quilting, roll the free part of the product into a roll - this will make it more convenient for you to work.

MANUAL QUILTING
With this method of work, the product is stretched into a frame (like an embroidery hoop). Perfect option- handmade frame that can be leaned against the table, as a result you will have free hands. When hand quilting, also sew from the center to the periphery. With a small needle with a thread 50 cm long, at some distance from the starting point, make stitches through all three layers of the product. Sew a few even small stitches in one step, then carefully pull the thread. Tip: it will be easier to work if you are on the middle finger working hand put on a thimble, and on the index finger of the other hand, which supports the product from below, put on a leather cap.

First, cut the edging fabric into strips across the grain thread. The width of the edging is approximately 7 cm. The total length of the stitched strips is equal to the perimeter of the product + 15 cm for diagonal corners + lapels at the ends. Sew the strips at a 45° angle into one long strip. Iron the strip by folding it in half, wrong side inward. Now lay out the strip in one layer. Along the top side of the product, trim the cuts of the inside and bottom side. Iron one end inward so that a triangle appears. Starting from this ironed end, pin the strip to the upper side of the product along the entire length of one side with an interval of 10 cm. The edges of the edging lie on the sections of the product. Sew at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the edging, grabbing all layers of the product.

EDging: STEP BY STEP
Before reaching 7 mm to the corner of the product, interrupt the seam, perform a bartack. Turn the edging strip at an angle of 45° outward, then turn the strip down so that the fold is exactly at the level of the already sewn edge of the edging. Now sew at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the piping on the next side of the product, grabbing all three layers. Treat other corners in the same way. When you wrap all sides of the product in this way, i.e. get to the beginning of the edging, cut off the excess edging allowances, tuck the end and finish the seam. Finally, fold the edging to the underside of the product, secure with clips and sew by hand with blind stitches.

Source http://www.burdafashion.com/ru/index/1000001-1623201-1719103-1719104.html

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Love of Quilting - magazine

Most of the townsfolk will agree that patchwork blankets are warm memories from childhood associated with trips to grandmother in the village. These various pieces of fabric, tied together, really create a cozy home environment, especially with the onset of cold weather.

The technique of patchwork or patchwork is rooted in the distant past, but today it is reviving again and enjoying wide popularity. Naturally, over time, patchwork technologies have changed and become more modern, as shown in the photo of patchwork quilts.

Creation technology

The process of sewing a product from small pieces of fabric is, in fact, a very exciting experience. In addition, it does not require huge financial investments. After all necessary materials in the form of a variety of pieces of fabric, you can purchase a set or use old things that may lie in your closet.

Many ideas and secrets from experienced designers can be found at dizajny.guru

As a result, things that have gone out of fashion will be able to continue their existence in a new way and will remind you of a wonderful past. But you should not use very dilapidated things so that zeal is not in vain.

To create a patchwork quilt, you need to prepare 6 or more different colors of fabric. To embody a unique design with the help of your indefatigable imagination, you should use various colors, tissue structures and drawings on them. Slightly gathered details will give volume of the invoice and effective appearance.

How to sew a patchwork quilt with your own hands? To do this, just look at the master classes from the Internet, which will help you learn the patchwork technique on your own.

Selecting the right fabric

To sew a patchwork blanket with your own hands, you need pieces of fabric of the same thickness and texture. The color palette of fabrics is chosen in accordance with the interior style, wall colors and furniture.

Contrasting combinations of fabrics look most advantageous against the discreet background of the main canvas. You should not allow excesses of variegation, it is better to give preference to moderation.

Before starting the sewing process, it is necessary to make a preliminary layout of the blanks on the leading base of the fabric, move away from it a little and evaluate the resulting masterpiece. So to say, a look from the outside will help to understand the success of the combination of pattern and color scheme.

Blanket filling material

A patchwork blanket has three main layers: a beautiful top, insulation and a lining bottom. If you pull out the insulation from the blanket, you get an ordinary bedspread.

For the insulation of the product, a synthetic winterizer is most often used, which does not shrink after washing. Therefore, it does not need to be soaked before sewing, as it will not change its original appearance and size.

Its only drawback is that it is synthetic. For children, the use of synthetics is undesirable, it is better to use as much as possible natural materials.

As alternatives you can use natural fillers:

• made of cotton, similar to lightweight batting without threads. It is milky in color, 2 or 3 mm thick, does not crumble. But after contact with water, it can shrink by about 5%. In this regard, it should be pre-soaked, carefully squeezed in a towel and dried.
• from 100% natural wool. Its main property is considered to be excellent thermal insulation, which is great for needlework.

Used sewing patterns

Do-it-yourself patchwork compositions can contain patches of various configurations: quadrangles, triangles or stripes. At the beginning, they are cut out of cardboard or thick paper. The easiest way is to create a patchwork masterpiece from large squares, which will undoubtedly appeal to novice needlewomen.

Schemes of increased complexity of a patchwork quilt can be viewed on special sites so as not to suffer on your own, or you can buy it in a needlework kit.

Patch Quilt Stitching Technique

To avoid deformation of the form during operation, when washing or cleaning the product, the layers of the blanket must be interconnected. In addition, the stitches perform the mission of decoration, hide the defects that appear during work.

The joining of the layers can be machine or manual. To save time, it is better to use a typewriter, in addition, you can perform the necessary line. A self-quilted product is softer to the touch and in use.

After the border is sewn, the blanket stitch begins. First, the layers are securely fixed. The blanket is turned inside out and hand basted from the center to the edges. This stage must be approached very responsibly.

If the basting is done poorly, then the machine line will be of poor quality with bubbles and assemblies, which cannot be fixed. To avoid material run-on, a preliminary basting and stitch should be made from the middle to the edges.

Required materials and tools

To organize and create a patchwork quilt you will need: a table, threads, a template, prepared fabrics, insulation material, lining fabric, inlay, needles, pins, chalk or remnant, scissors, centimeter, sewing machine and iron.

Using various fabrics, you can get various masterpiece patchwork blankets that will become a real decoration of the interior, besides warm and cozy. To create children's patchwork quilts, use only natural materials. Keep it up and you will succeed!

Photo of a patchwork quilt