Evening dress from a piece of fabric without sewing. How to make a dress out of fabric without sewing. Memo: how to sew a dress
My love for sewing began as a child, when I dressed my plastic baby dolls in homemade clothes. I remember my mother (also a needlewoman, by the way) had a large bag with pieces of fabric left after sewing. It was happiness for me to swarm in this heap of scraps, I chose the most gaudy bright pieces of matter and sewed my first creations from them. It's about me. But I know that many of you come to the desire to sew already in a conscious adult age, when you go to the store and, confused by the variety of types of fabrics for clothes, make the “wrong” purchases.
- Easy to sew fabrics
- Difficult fabrics to sew
Types of fabric for clothing. What are the fabrics for sewing
For many needlewomen, the wardrobe is filled to the top with cuts from which they would like to sew “this”, “this”, and “this”, but they do not know if this fabric is suitable for sewing the desired thing. Or they don’t know at all what exactly they would like to sew, but they simply bought it because they liked the pattern. I call this an irrational approach to tailoring. The fact is that I, too, used to have a desire to immediately buy the fabric I liked, because I liked an interesting print or color on it, and at that moment I didn’t think at all what clothes I would sew from it. Often it turned out that it was not at all suitable for the intended thing, or I simply did not have the experience to work with such a fabric.
Today I will tell you how a beginner seamstress can avoid such mistakes. So let's start with the basics - what are the fabrics.
According to their characteristics, fabrics are divided into simple and complex. I will give you an example of the main fabrics and tell you exactly what properties the fabric should have or, on the contrary, not have, so that you do not have any problems and difficulties when sewing. I always advise beginner seamstresses to go from simple to complex, choose simple models for sewing, otherwise you can lose all desire to create. The same principle applies to fabrics - there is a group of fabrics that are easy and simple to sew, and they are ideal for beginners.
Easy to sew fabrics
1. Chintz. The lightest and most inexpensive cotton fabric. It is environmentally friendly, does not cause allergies, so clothes for babies, for sleeping and at home are sewn from it - shirts, pajamas, bathrobes, as well as bed linen, tablecloths, napkins.
2. Gabardine. Due to its high wear resistance and water repellency, I recommend using this fabric for furniture covers, bedspreads, curtains, and some artists use it as a canvas for paintings. It is easy to work with it, gabardine does not wrinkle, so skirts, raincoats, trousers are best obtained from it. But I would not recommend sewing tight-fitting clothes from gabardine for daily use. This material is mostly synthetic, which means there will be poor air circulation, you will sweat in such clothes and feel uncomfortable. Although today some fabric stores are showing wool or all-cotton gabardine, so check the composition carefully before buying.
3. Jacquard. A rather expensive and refined fabric, and all because of its relief, created by a special weave of threads. If you look at her front side, you can see how the pattern is not just applied to the fabric, but embossed or embroidered on it. Clothing made of jacquard does not need additional decoration, the fabric itself gives an elegant look. It holds its shape well, so dresses, coats, trousers can be sewn from this fabric. Jacquard also looks beautiful in the interior, you can sew upholstery for furniture or put it on curtains. The composition can be cotton, silk, mixed, synthetic. High-quality lining jacquard can be purchased. For a beginner seamstress, it is best to take cotton or synthetic jacquard for sewing.
4. satin with a matte finish, no gloss or gloss- dense, durable, beautiful fabric that does not lose its properties after repeated washing, is pleasant to use, durable. Bedding, curtains, bedspreads, clothes are sewn from it.
5. Staple- Thin and light fabric. Due to its properties to absorb moisture well, while cooling the skin, the staple can be used when sewing summer things: sundresses, dresses, blouses, skirts. It drapes well, so it is suitable for models with assemblies and numerous folds.
6. Viscose- the softest and most pleasant to the touch fabric. Despite the belief that viscose is a natural fabric, in fact, viscose is produced artificially.
There are three types of viscose fabric:
- natural 100% viscose from wood pulp. This is the most capricious type of viscose. It wrinkles quickly, shrinks a lot when washed, and sewing from this type of fabric requires experience.
- viscose with cotton. This combination gives a stronger fiber, so sewing from it is easy. If you love natural fabrics, take note of this composition. From it, flowing tight-fitting dresses, skirts, blouses are well obtained.
- synthetic viscose. Not always the inscription on the label is viscose, which guarantees that the fabric is natural. If you are new to sewing, the manufacturer may mislead you and sell fake viscose. It is easy to distinguish synthetics - fabric made of artificial viscose is much cheaper, it almost does not wrinkle. But then the clothes will quickly become covered with spools and are not suitable for summer due to poor breathability.
7. Dress and blouse crepe. I'm sure many of you remember how Soviet time it was considered chic to wear a crepe de chine dress. This type of fabric has not yet lost its appeal to women's clothing. Today in the mass sale you can find the prefix crepe to satin, silk and synthetics. For a beginner seamstress, I would recommend using the last type of crepe for sewing, as it is the most unpretentious in work. The crepe has a rough surface, because of this things from dress crepe look textured, I would compare it with suede, but in a lighter version.
8. Tight knitwear. There are quite a few types of knitwear, and I would divide it into two groups: dense and highly stretchable knitwear. For a beginner seamstress, it will be easiest to work with tight knitwear that does not stretch much, does not unravel at the edges. These are such types of knitwear as: interlock, cashmere, jersey, footer, acrylic (synthetics), textured knitwear.
I would did not recommend for beginners to sew from supplex, mesh knitwear, velor, terry, knitwear with angora - to sew from such fabrics, practical skills are needed, otherwise you risk ruining your fabric and mood.
9. Lorenzo- easy to sew fabric that does not wrinkle, creates beautiful folds and practically does not shrink after washing. For beginners, it is best to take a lonrenzo containing synthetic fibers, or a mixed composition. Suitable for sewing summer things - dresses, wide pants, sundresses. This type of fabric has the only drawback - after a while, pellets may appear on it, but its price is low.
10. Taffeta- the most elegant fabric and therefore is used everywhere for tailoring evening dresses or to create a rich interior. It is easily recognizable by its shiny surface and rigidity. Due to the properties of taffeta, it is good to keep its shape - it is suitable for a lush bottom: skirts and dresses on the floor.
In the fabric salon, it is easy to distinguish several types of taffeta:
- Synthetic taffeta is the most budget type of fabric. If you still haven’t decided what to sew an outfit for your baby or yourself for a wedding as a guest, you can safely make a choice in favor of acrylic taffeta. Don't let the unnatural composition scare you, because you will wear such an outfit for only one evening. I recommend to all beginners in sewing to work with this fabric when I myself sewed my first fancy dress from taffeta.
- cotton taffeta - in this outfit you will definitely shine, because the ability of taffeta to reflect light is on top! But keep in mind that cotton products also wrinkle well, but they are hygroscopic - which means they are suitable for everyday use. It is easy to work with cotton taffeta in tailoring, with it a beginner seamstress can test himself in tailoring a suit or dress.
- silk taffeta is an expensive option for those who are ready to shell out a tidy sum for their outfit. As you understand, it is better for a beginner seamstress to refrain from working with silk fabrics - firstly, there is not enough experience, secondly, it may not work out and you risk throwing a large sum down the drain.
11. suit fabrics- this is a separate group, which includes fabrics that are used when sewing adult and children's jackets, trousers, skirts. According to their composition, they are:
- suit wool, tweed. Not capricious in work, dimensionally stable fabric. Perfect for winter dresses, vests and warm bottoms: skirts, trousers. However, beginners need to know that woolen fabric can be scratchy, so such clothes definitely need a lining. If you have not yet mastered the technique of sewing the lining to the product, it is better to refrain from buying fabric with a wool composition.
- suit fabric made of synthetics. This includes gabardine, memory. The main advantage of artificial fabrics is wear resistance and crease resistance. Such suits can not even be ironed after washing. My most recommended piece for beginner sewing is school uniform. And fill your hand and save family budget. At the same time, its price is low.
- cotton costume fabrics - denim or jeans, linen. Of all the above, I would advise you to take only jeans for sewing at the beginning of training.
- but the suit fabric of mixed composition proved to be the best in operation. If you find such a fabric - choose boldly!
12. Poplin- natural double-sided cotton fabric. In terms of density, I would put it between a staple and satin. That is, it is not too thin, and at the same time it is suitable for the warm season. Therefore, dresses, skirts, shorts are well made from poplin. If you are in the process of choosing natural fabric for a summer sundress - take a closer look at the poplin. Due to the presence of two types of threads, it has a smooth and slightly shiny surface. Also, because of its inexpensiveness, you can afford to sew poplin bedding.
Difficult fabrics to sew
1. Shaggy and satin coated fabrics: velvet, velor, velveteen, plush, satin, satin. Although pile fabrics they are beautifully draped and pleasant to the touch, I do not advise a beginner to take on sewing products from velvet, velor, plush. This requires experience and knowledge of sewing technology. The pile has a direction, so when cutting it is necessary to observe this feature, otherwise the dress will turn out to be multi-colored. Such fabrics are not ironed, and if they are decoated, then it is obligatory in compliance with all WTO wet heat treatment technologies. And if your eyes fell on satin or satin, then I advise you to reconsider it in favor of taffeta or jacquard. Since on the satin coating there are forever traces of a puncture with a needle. Therefore, all your errors in the form of crooked lines or work with a ripper will be visible in all their glory.
2. Checkered and striped fabrics. To make a checkered dress look neat, you need to cut all the details in accordance with the pattern. It will not be easy for a beginner to adjust the pattern, and the errors made will immediately betray the inexperience of the tailor.
3. Thin, highly stretchy jersey. Here, too, there are nuances. It is necessary to take into account the extensibility of the fabric, otherwise you can end up with a thing a couple of sizes larger, even if you used a pattern by size.
5. Transparent fabrics: cambric, chiffon, organza, silk, guipure and lace. One of the most difficult fabrics to sew. Here I advise a novice seamstress not only not to take on sewing products from this group of fabrics, but also to look for a good experienced dressmaker when ordering a custom-made lace dress.
6. Loose fabrics with high friability: linen, wool, tweed. Although tweed makes exquisite demi-season coats with a small rib, in your work you will constantly encounter garbage from threads and villi. To be honest, I do not like working with these fabrics, especially sewing a woolen coat annoys me. After which you have to vacuum the whole room, and given that I have an allergy, then you can completely refuse to work with such fabrics.
7. Natural silk. Its price corresponds to the difficulty in working with this fabric. The price of silk woven from natural threads of cocoons silkworm, starts from several thousand per meter. To date, they have learned how to make silk by artificial methods, but no matter how it is obtained, experience is needed to sew clothes from silk. When cutting on silk fabric, it is difficult to decompose patterns in the usual way- the fabric slides and the usual chalk marks cannot be used here. Therefore, at the initial stage, I advise you to look through more than one pair of lessons on working with silk and get your hand on a cheaper organza.
There are many more types of classification of fabrics for clothing, I have listed only the most common ones. But even those discussed in today's example will help you at first to do right choice so as not to be disappointed in their own abilities.
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When creating this kite, I spent no more than $40 on materials.
The whole process of creating this wonderful kite took me 8 hours. This is the snake I ended up with:
Step 1: Materials and Tools
My goal was to use the cheapest and most accessible materials that can be bought at any store. Please note that many of the materials I did not have to look for, so your kite may cost a larger amount.
Materials:
1. Durable nylon. I bought a meter of each color. This amount should, according to my calculations, be enough for 5 kites.
2. Six wooden dowels (0.6 cm in diameter, 92 cm long)
3. Vinyl tube 61 cm long, with a diameter of 0.6 cm. This tube will hold the dowels together.
4. Adhesive for fabric. You can choose the cheapest in the store.
5. Super glue. It is necessary to firmly glue the fabric to the vinyl tube.
6. Special fishing line or rope for winding / unwinding and controlling the kite in the air.
7. A pack of safety pins (optional, can be used to hold pieces of fabric together while gluing it to the wooden base of the snake).
Tools:
1. Scissors
2. Marker with a fine tip for marking on fabric and dowels.
3. Boxed cardboard to create a layout (optional). It was easier for me to measure the triangular layout of the kite on cardboard so that in the end my kite turned out to be symmetrical.
4. Tape measure and straightedge (36 inches long) for calculations.
5. Protractor - for measuring angles in a triangular kite.
6. Regular pencil sharpener - we will use it to cut the edges of the dowels.
7. Hacksaw and cutter (optional) - in order to cut off part of the wooden dowel.
8. Large nail - should leave a hole through which a wooden dowel can pass through.
For work, I advise you to spread the fabric on the floor, so it will be more convenient to do calculations.
Step 2: Building the Foundation
What we need: wooden dowels (3 pieces 91 cm long, 1 piece 6 cm long, 1 piece 7.2 cm long), vinyl tube, nail, scissors, tape measure, marker.
The vinyl tube should be long enough for you to fit the wood dowels into it.
The vinyl tubing will need to be doweled and cut later (NOT NOW). Therefore, the length of the tube can be calculated based on the dimensions of the parts:
1 tube 7.6 cm long;
6 tubes 1 cm long (for connecting the crossbars);
2 tubes 1.3 cm long (for fixing the outer tips of the "wings" of the snake so that the fabric does not come off).
1. Measure the length of each key. 3 dowels do not need to be cut at all, while 2 dowels can be obtained by cutting one. I used a miter and a hacksaw to cut the dowels. You can replace these tools with scissors, but then you have to work hard to cut straight.
2. Take a pencil sharpener to round off the edges of the dowels. No need to sharpen, just round off so the keys can be pushed into the vinyl tube. Look at the photo.
3. Measure one and a half centimeters from the edge of the vinyl tube and make a mark with a marker. Then, in place of the mark, stick a nail perpendicular to the tube. Look at the photo.
4. Now you need to push the key into the tube. This will take some time and effort. How to do it - look at the photo.
5. Once the first key has been inserted, you can measure a length of 1 cm and cut it off.
6. Repeat for all keys:
to fix the tip, the “nose” of the snake, you need a dowel in a tube 7.6 cm long;
two 92 cm dowels will require 2 vinyl tubes. One 91 cm long key will need a vinyl tube in its central part. This is quite difficult to explain - follow the step-by-step actions in the photo.
Step 3: Measure and cut the fabric
What do we need: nylon, marker, scissors, tape measure, straightedge, protractor.
I drew a sketch of my kite on cardboard in advance and cut out the layout. Thus, I got a symmetrical layout, which is left to attach to the fabric, circle and cut along the contour.
I had to tinker with trigonometric calculations. To make it easier for you, here is a picture with the measurements I used:
Note that the 2 edges are 1.5 cm longer. This margin is needed to glue together the "sleeves" into which we will insert the dowel.
Step 4: Glue the pieces of fabric
What we need: dowels, fabric glue, pieces of fabric you just cut out, safety pins (optional)
Note: glue one of the 19" pieces into the sleeve. The other part will be used to glue two pieces of fabric.
For beginners, the longer piece of fabric will be wrapped around the longest dowels. Next, I made the sleeve by gluing nylon around the edge and inserting a dowel as shown in the photo.
Now it's the turn to glue one piece of fabric to another. Take the piece where there is no sleeve for the dowel and cut it to 0.5 cm. Glue as shown in the photo, remember to insert the dowel into the sleeve before gluing.
Let the glue dry for several hours.
Step 5: Joining the Base and Fabric
What we need: tape measure, parts of the kite that you have already made - fabric base and wings, superglue, fabric glue, an additional dowel to even out the roughness from the glue layer on the fabric.
Prepare the fabric:
Along the edges, you need to measure and make cuts to insert the doweled vinyl tubes. The incisions should be at a distance of 9 cm and 32 cm from the "spout". Detailed process in the photo.
Insert dowels:
To create the outer slats of the kite, take the two dowels in the vinyl tubing prepared earlier.
1. Starting at the “nose”, carefully slide the dowel into the fabric sleeve.
2. Once you reach the first notch, slide a piece of vinyl tubing over the key as shown in the photo below.
3. Continue to slide the dowel down the takani sleeve, making sure that the outside of the vinyl tube does not move.
4. Repeat step 2 for the next vinyl tube when you reach the second notch in the sleeve.
5. Pass the dowel to the end of the sleeve, and do the same with the other "wing" of your kite.
We collect the central part:
The 19-inch sleeve, which is made in the middle after gluing the two halves of the fabric, also needs to make two cuts to fit the short key.
1. The outer slats are now in the sleeves at the edges of the "wings".
2. The upper layer of the sleeve in the middle must be cut to pass the key, which should be fastened at both ends with vinyl tubes.
A few finishing touches:
Now we need superglue. It is very important to use superglue to secure the tips of the "wings" of the kite so that they do not stick out and do not become disheveled during acrobatic stunts in the air.
1. Use 3" vinyl tubing to secure the spout. Now use superglue to stick the fabric to the vinyl tube.
2. One and a half inch vinyl tubes from the base of the kite should be attached to the ends of the outer strips. Use superglue to glue the fabric to the tubes.
3. Apply fabric glue to the back ( the only edge where there is no key). To prevent the glue from bubbling, straighten the fabric with a dowel.
Voila! Finally, we have a kite that can perform acrobatic stunts.
Step 6: Attaching the ropes to control the kite
What you will need: rope, twine (60 meters), scissors, kite.
In total, there are 6 connecting points (3 on each side), they should be located as in the photo.
I made a loop at one end of the loop, cut the rope into 6 pieces, each 61 cm long. Then I attached each rope to the snake at the connection points. To do this, I wrapped the rope around the key and threaded the free end into a loop, thus tying it around the key.
Measure, without cutting, the length for each tied rope:
top rope (21 cm);
the lower rope of the outer strap (16.5 cm);
lower ropes on the inside (14 cm).
1. Measure each rope, make a mark with a marker.
2. Once all the ropes have been marked to the correct length, take the 2 ropes from the left side and 1 lower middle rope and line up according to the marks.
3. Apply superglue to all three marks to hold the three ropes together.
4. After the superglue dries, tie a knot on all three ropes. To secure the knot, I put some superglue on it.
5. Repeat all these steps for the right side of the kite. Excess pieces of rope can be cut off after the glue dries. Don't forget to check the photo.
Rope guides.
You will need two ropes to control the kite in the air. One for the right hand, the other for the left. Each of these ropes should be about 25-30m long. The photo explains in detail how to connect these lines to the base of the kite. Make a loop at the end of each rope and follow the instructions in the photo!
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You can do it yourself, without having the skills of sewing or knitting. For making clothes for dolls without sewing, old knitted (preferably) things are suitable. Knitwear does not crumble at the seams, elastic, keeps its shape well. Other fabrics can also be used. The main thing is that the finished product does not crumble the edges of the fabric when used.
Skirt without sewing
To make a skirt without sewing, below the knee length, cut a square with a side of 10 cm from knitwear. The skirt in the photo is made from an old sand-colored T-shirt.
Fold the square in half.
Fold the resulting rectangle in half. That is, we get a square in four additions.
In the corner where the folds of the fabric are located, set aside 0.5 cm and cut off the top - this is the waist line. Set aside 10 cm along the entire skirt (on the sides and the central part). Connect with a smooth line. Cut off excess fabric along this line. The skirt is ready.
Unfold the skirt, iron.
Try on a skirt for a doll.
Sleeveless sweater
To make a sweater without sewing, cut a rectangle from knitwear with sides 7 cm x 30 cm.
Bend the rectangular strip by 1.5 cm and mark the places for the armholes of the blouse.
From the edges of the rectangle, step back on both sides by 12.5 cm and put marks. Make an incision for one sleeve by 0.5 cm.
Make an incision for another armhole.
Expand the rectangle.
We put a blouse on the doll.
We cross the free ends of the blouse and tie behind the back at the waist.
Since the rectangular tails will narrow the product at the back, you can trim them as follows.
Unfold the blouse and cut off the corners as shown in the photo
The blouse can be put on the doll on the other side. The free ends are crossed and tied in front or offset to the right or left side.
This is how the blouse looks from the back in the second version of trying on the blouse.
Long dress without sewing
beautiful evening blue dress made from a combination with lace. For a dress without sewing, a square with a side of 48 cm is cut out. Fold the fabric square in half and in half again.
In the corner with folds, carefully cut the neck with a boat about 2 cm long.
Expand the square and try on the doll. If the head does not fit into the oval, then adjust the length of the neck.
We outline the places of the armholes of the dress on the square. Namely, set aside 0.5 cm from the neck in both directions.
Make cuts 0.3 -0.4 mm long as shown in the photo.
Expand the square with the neckline and armholes.
Fold the square in quarters again and align the length of the dress. That is, set aside 24 cm on the sides and in the center and draw a smooth line. Cut off excess fabric.
Unfold the finished dress.
Dress up the doll.
Prepare a lace braid or a strip of fabric about 60-70 cm long.
Tie a lace band at the waist with a bow from the back. Distribute the pleats evenly on the front of the fabric.
Distribute the folds evenly on the back of the fabric.
Lace braid can be tied above the waist and the dress will take on a different style.
If there is a wide lace, then the dress will look more elegant.
Remove the narrow braid from the dress, and throw a strip of wide lace over the shoulders, cross the free ends in front and tie behind the back. Straighten the folds on the dress.
Wide lace can also be used as a thin stole.