Preparing fabric for cutting and cutting. Fabric decating Technology for cutting and sewing pile fabrics

Some fabrics shrink when washed. Materials made from natural fibers, such as linen, cotton, wool, silk, shrink especially strongly. The rate of fabric shrinkage can be from 1.5 to 10% (it is individual for each type of fabric). This means that when curtains are 2 m 50 cm high, after washing they can be shortened by 3.7-25 cm. forced shrinkage before cutting. Accordingly, you need to buy material with a margin for shrinkage. Do not forget about this if you sew curtains with your own hands.
Decating fabric is a wet-heat treatment in order to prevent shrinkage of the fabric during the sewing and operation of the product. For decating fabric at home, a regular iron is used. It makes sense to buy special devices that exist for these purposes - steam generators if you sew a lot.
Cotton, linen, artificial fabrics should be dipped in warm water for a few minutes, squeezed out slightly without twisting, then it is best to pull it out on a stick or crossbar. Be aware that cotton fabrics can shed. This is especially true for red and green colors. The more shedding the fabric, the less warm the water should be. A slightly damp cloth is ironed from the inside out. In this case, the iron is carried out along the shared thread. The pieces of fabric for sewing curtains have an impressive length, so thoroughly wash the floor before ironing the fabric.
Silk and woolen fabrics should be moistened by wrapping them in a soaked and wrung out towel (or sheet), left in this position for 2-3 hours. After the fabric is ironed necessarily through the iron.
On some fabrics made of artificial, synthetic and mixed fibers, creases and creases formed during inaccurate ironing cannot be removed. This is rare, but you need to be aware of it.
Corduroy, velvet, plush and other pile fabrics do not decant. If there is a need for ironing, it is done on weight. You can lay a pile fabric on a fabric with the same pile (i.e. pile to pile) and lightly, through a damp iron, almost without touching the fabric with an iron, just steam the fabric.
artificial and genuine leather, lacquer, "wrinkled" fabrics, bologna, are not subjected to decatization.
In addition, some types of curtain fabrics may shrink gradually, with each wash a little. In this case, you need to either make additional allowances along the bottom edge when sewing, due to which, if necessary, it will be possible to increase the length of the curtains, or choose longer curtains immediately so that after washing they take desired shape. By the way, now it is fashionable to make curtains of such length that they can be laid on the floor with beautiful draperies. In this case, shrinkage of the curtain material during washing is not a problem.

“Preparing fabric for cutting. Cutting products»

Lesson Objectives:

educational - familiarize students with different ways the location of the details of the paper pattern on the fabric; teach students the most economical way to decompose parts; improve the skills of cutting symmetrical parts of the product, taking into account the properties, colors and pattern of the fabric;

developing- develop logical thinking, coordination of hand movements, design and performance skills;

educational- to cultivate aesthetic taste, attentiveness, to instill the skills of a culture of work and accuracy;

career guidance- generalize knowledge about the field labor activity, professions, career.

Methodological equipment of the lesson:

1.Material and technical base:

technology room; iron, ironing board; centimeter tape, fabric scissors, pins, needles, square, rulers, chalk or soap; fabric for cutting.

2. Technical means: computer with MS Windows operating system; multimedia projector; screen.

3. Didactic support: presentation; technological map for the manufacture of cutting a nightgown, textbooks: "Technology - 7 cells." V.D. Simonenko; "Technology of fabric processing 7-9 cells." V.N. Chernyakova,

educational and technical documentation:technological maps; instruction cards;

object of labor: nightdress.

node processing samples: processing of the neck, processing of the lower cut of the sleeve, processing of seams with an iron and an iron;

materials for the control of students' knowledge: task cards; tests;

Teaching methods : explanatory and visual, partially exploratory: explanation with practical consolidation, introductory briefing and practical work.

Forms of organization of cognitive activity of students : frontal; individual.

Lesson type : combined.

Intersubject communications : botany - the importance of plants and conifers in human life; technology 5 cells. - types of fibers, fabric structure.

Bibliography:

Technology - Grade 7 - V.D. Simonenko - 2000

Fabric processing technology -7 -9 cells. V.N. Chernyakov -1999

Labor training - 7 cells.

Literature for extracurricular reading of students

You and your profession - M.A. Bendyukov

During the classes

Lesson structure:

I . Organizing time: 2 minutes

II . Checking students' homework: 2 minutes

III . Actualization of students' knowledge 3 min

IV 10 min

V 5 minutes

VI (10 min)

VII . Assimilation of new knowledge. (10 min)

VIII . Final briefing. 2 minutes

IX . Workplace cleaning. 1 min

I . Organizing time: 2 minutes

greetings;

checking student attendance;

filling in by the teacher cool magazine;

checking work clothes and readiness of students for the lesson;

prepare students for work;

communicate the lesson plan to the students.

II . Checking students' homework : 2 minutes

1. Check the requirements for preparing the pattern, the norms for adding seam allowances.

2. Check the safety regulations for working with sharp and cutting tools.

III . Updating students' knowledge: 3 min

Checking knowledge of the material of past classes on task cards. (Application)

IV . Presentation of new material. 10 min

Communication of informative information.

Before cutting the product, it is necessary to prepare the fabric for cutting.

Many fabrics have the property of shrinkage. To ensure that the product does not lose its original shape and size during wear, the fabric should be decanted.

Woolen fabrics(dress) usually decant through a wet iron (piece thick fabric, preferably linen) in the shared direction. In this case, you should not drive the iron for a long time, as the fabric can become the most rigid. The fabric is then allowed to cool and dry.

Single-sided woolen and crepe fabrics are moistened by regular spraying or spraying. Wrapped in a sheet and left for several hours, after which the fabric is ironed with a not very hot iron from the inside along the shared thread.

staple fabrics and artificial silks are best dipped in slightly warm salted water for 15 minutes, starched, gently squeezed out without twisting, then wrapped in a sheet for 2-3 hours. Iron the fabric from the wrong side, with a not very hot iron.

cotton fabric moistened in warm water, squeezed, dried and ironed.

It should be remembered that some fabrics (wool, velvet, synthetic) cannot be moistened, as stains or wrinkles remain on them, which do not disappear even after ironing. Therefore, before decating the fabric, it is necessary to check on a piece how it reacts to moisture.

1. Preparing the fabric for cutting.

Determine the fiber content of a fabric.

Decat the fabric to prevent subsequent shrinkage.

Determine the direction of the grain thread on the fabric, the front and back sides, the direction of the fabric pattern and its nature, in order to take all this into account when laying out the patterns. Check for defects.

Iron the fabric.

Bend the fabric along the shared thread in the middle with the front side inward, equalizing the pattern, chop off.

Align the cross section of the fabric with a square.

2. Laying out the details of the pattern on the fabric.

When laying out patterns, it is necessary to take into account some properties of the fabric. It is easier to cut out from hard, elastic fabrics than from light, loose and sliding ones. When laying out, pay special attention to fabrics with a one-sided direction of the pattern. Here it is necessary to ensure that on all the details of the product the pattern is directed in one direction. In pile fabrics, the direction of the pile and shade are checked. When cutting from velveteen and velvet, the details of the patterns are laid out sequentially in the direction of the pile from the bottom up.

When cutting products from flannel or baize, place the details of the patterns in the direction of the pile from top to bottom, then while wearing the pile will not rise. On fabrics with stripes and a cage, arrange the details of the patterns so that at the junctions of the details (at the seams) the strip or cage matches in color, width and runs exactly in the middle of the front and back.

In terms of size, cells in tissues can be small, medium and large. In addition to size, they differ in color, size of squares, width and order of alternation of stripes. If in the drawing of a tissue cell one can find a midline that divides the cell into two equal parts in all directions, such a checkered tissue is called symmetrical.

When cutting, the line of symmetry must be aligned with the middle line of the pattern.

The layout of patterns on the fabric is carried out in two ways:

in the fold - the fabric is folded in half along the length with the front side inward;

in turn - the fabric is turned in width.

Lay out large parts on the fabric, starting from the shelf, stepping back from the cut by the amount of the seam allowance.

Patterns on fabric with a directional pattern should be in the same direction. If the fabric has a large pattern, it is necessary that the right and left side were symmetrical

The direction of the warp threads on the pattern should match the direction on the fabric.

Pattern details are arranged so that the layout is economical.

The lines along which the cutting will be made and the control points are drawn with sharpened chalk or soap.

3. Open.

Cut out the details of the product along the lines of the seam allowances.

For the first fitting, cut out only large main parts.

V . Consolidation of students' knowledge. 5 minutes

Make a layout on graph paper in m 1: 4. Mutual control.

Having chosen a rational layout of patterns, students begin practical work.

Practical work ""Layout of patterns of details on fabric and cutting"".

Induction training:

Exercise 1.

To study the technology of preparing fabric for cutting.

Task 2.

Prepare fabric for cutting.

Task 3.

Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric.

Control.

Are the patterns on the fabric correctly positioned according to the pattern?

Does the direction of the shared thread on the fabric coincide with its designation on the pattern?

Are the details correct? Are all control points marked on the fabric?

Are allowances correct?

Task 4.

Make a cut.

Control.

Are all cut details in stock?

Whether control points are applied along the waist line.

Are the seam allowances even?

Whether the direction of the lobar thread of the fabric is indicated.

familiarization with educational and technical documentation.

warning about possible difficulties;

safety briefing when working with scissors, pins.

VI . Independent work of students on UTD. (10 min)

1 The current instruction of the teacher (conducted in the course of the students' independent work):

2. Formation of new skills:

checking the organization of the beginning of the work of students;

checking the organization of students' workplaces (desktop, tools, fixtures);

compliance with the rules of safety, sanitation and occupational health in the performance of the task;

VII . Assimilation of new knowledge. (10 min)

Checking the correct use of educational and technical documentation by students;

instructions on how to complete the task in accordance with the technological documentation.

Target visits to student workplaces:

First round: instructing students to perform individual operations and tasks;

Second bypass: focusing students on the most effective techniques performing operations;

Third bypass: check the correctness of self-control.

Fourth round: check the correctness of compliance with the technical conditions in the work. Perform acceptance and appraisal of work.

Give additional work to the most successful students.

VIII . Final briefing. 2 minutes

1. Consolidation of the studied material.

a) the task of choosing the correct sequence.

b) test: Open.

2. Summing up the work- a message about the achievement of the objectives of the lesson.

Objective evaluation of the results of individual work of students in the lesson;

provide an assessment of the quality of work of each student;

put marks in the journal and diaries of students.

Mark which of the students achieved excellent quality of work.

To analyze the most characteristic shortcomings in the work of students.

Message about the topic of the next lesson: preparation of cut details for processing, preparation of the product for the first fitting.

Homework: Bring: cut, sewing needles, tailor's pins, chalk or soap, thread.

c) repeat the technology of processing the cut with copy stitches.

IX . Workplace cleaning. 1 min

Presentation

7th grade.

Lesson topic: " The sequence of preparing fabric for cutting. Rules for laying out patterns on fabric. Cutting rules. Seam allowances. Markup quality control methods.

Work in the lesson takes place in the form of a competition in teams (the number of teams is determined by the number of rows in the office). The teacher summarizes the results at the end of the lesson and, based on the results of the work of the teams in the lesson, marks the lesson.

Lesson Objectives:

Educational:

to acquaint students with various ways of arranging the details of a paper pattern on fabric;
teach students the most economical way to decompose parts; improve the skills of cutting symmetrical parts of the product, taking into account the properties, colors and pattern of the fabric;
contribute to the formation of students' ideas about the sequence of making clothes from a sketch to a finished product;
consolidate skills in preparing fabric for cutting;
to consolidate the skills of an economical layout of patterns on fabric, choosing the amount of allowance for seams;

Developing:

develop logical thinking, coordination of hand movements, design and performance skills;
contribute to the development spatial imagination, creative thinking, aesthetic taste; promote the development of cognitive interest in the subject.

Educational:

cultivate aesthetic taste, attentiveness;
to instill the skills of a culture of work and accuracy;
contribute to the formation of the right attitude in the team.

Career guidance:

generalize knowledge about the field of work, professions, career.

Methodological equipment of the lesson:

Material and technical base:

technology room;

iron, ironing board;

centimeter tape, fabric scissors, pins, needles, square, rulers, chalk or soap;

fabric for cutting.

video "Open the nightgown"

Didactic support:

textbooks: "Technology -7 cells." V.D. Simonenko; "Technology of fabric processing 7-9 cells." VN Chernyakova.

workbook;

album;

poster "" Laying out the details of the pattern on the fabric "";

educational and technical documentation:

technological maps;

instruction cards;

object of labor: nightgown, sundress, dressing gown;

samples of knotted processing: processing of the neck, processing of the lower cut of the sleeve, processing of seams in an open and closed stitch;

materials to control students' knowledge:

task cards;

tests;

Teaching methods: explanatory and visual, partially exploratory: explanation with practical consolidation, introductory briefing and practical work.

Forms of organization of cognitive activity of students:

frontal;

individual.

Lesson type: combined.

Interdisciplinary connections: botany - the importance of plants and conifers in human life; technology 5 cells. - types of fibers, fabric structure.

On the blackboard: undercut and one-piece collar, clasp, loop, duplication of parts, adhesive pad.

Fashion Dictionary: pick - a part of the product intended for processing the side, cut out according to its shape; frills - strips of matter of various lengths and widths, cut in a straight line, gathered on one side.

Literature for the teacher.

Exemplary programs in the educational field "Technology" V.D. Simonenko - 2000

Technology - Grade 7 - V.D. Simonenko - 2000

Fabric processing technology -7 -9 cells. V.N. Chernyakov -1999

During the classes

I . Organizing time:

greetings;

checking student attendance;

filling in a classroom journal by a teacher;

checking work clothes and readiness of students for the lesson;

prepare students for work;

communicate the lesson plan to the students.

II . Updating students' knowledge.

Knowledge tests. For the correct answer, the brigade receives a bonus.

1. The arrow on the pattern sheet means:

a) the direction of the shared thread;

b) the direction of the transverse thread.

2. Specify the correct sequence of technological operations when cutting the product:

a) chop the fabric with pins;

b) mark the processing allowances;

c) determine the front side of the fabric;

d) draw control lines and points;

e) circle the details along the contour;

f) cut out the details of the product from the fabric;

g) determine the share thread;

h) pin small and large parts;

i) Decompose large and small parts.

(g, c, a, i, h, e, b, d, f).

3. Cutting is:

a) cutting out paper parts of a garment;

b) the process of obtaining fabric parts of a garment by cutting them outfrom a piece of cloth;

c) the process of obtaining fabric parts of a garment by cutting them out of a piece of fabric in accordance with the details of the pattern and taking into account seam allowances

4. Name the sides of the fabric:

A). facial;

b) purl;

c) right;

d).left.

5. When cutting fabric, scissors are used:

a) manicure;

b) garden;

c) stationery;

d) tailors.

6. Indicate the correct sequence of technological operations when laying out the pattern on the fabric:

a) spread out small parts;

b) lay out large parts;

c) chop the fabric with pins;

d) pin small details;

e) pin large details;

e) determine the front side of the fabric;

g) draw control lines and points;

h) mark processing allowances;

i) circle the details along the contour;

j) determine the share thread.

(k, f, c, b, a, e, d, i, h, g)

7. The transfer of the pattern to the fabric is carried out using:

a) a cutter;

b) oblique stitches;

c) copy stitches;

d) decorative stitches.

8. When cutting fabric, use scissors:

A). manicure;

b) garden;

c) stationery;

e) tailor;

e) kitchen.

9. When cutting the product, it is necessary to take into account:

a) the location of the pattern on the fabric;

b) the direction of the warp threads;

c) the width of the fabric;

d) the amount of seam allowances;

e) pile direction.

III. Presentation of new material with a presentation.

Before cutting the product, it is necessary to prepare the fabric for cutting.

Many fabrics have the property of shrinkage. To ensure that the product does not lose its original shape and size during wear, the fabric should be decanted.

Woolen fabrics (dress fabrics) are usually decanted through a damp iron (a piece of dense fabric, preferably linen) in the shared direction. In this case, you should not drive the iron for a long time, as the fabric can become the most rigid. The fabric is then allowed to cool and dry.

Staple fabrics and artificial silks are best dipped in slightly warm salted water for 15 minutes, starched, gently squeezed out without twisting, then wrapped in a sheet for 2-3 hours. Iron the fabric from the wrong side, with a not very hot iron.

Cotton fabric is moistened in warm water, wrung out, dried and ironed.

Preparing fabric for cutting.

Determine the fiber content of a fabric.

Decat the fabric to prevent subsequent shrinkage.

Iron the fabric.

Bend the fabric along the shared thread in the middle with the front side inward, equalizing the pattern, chop off.

Align the cross section of the fabric with a square.

Laying out pattern pieces on fabric.

When cutting, the line of symmetry must be aligned with the middle line of the pattern.

The layout of patterns on the fabric is carried out in two ways:
in the fold - the fabric is folded in half along the length with the front side inward;
in turn - the fabric is turned in width.

Lay out large parts on the fabric, starting from the shelf, stepping back from the cut by the amount of the seam allowance.

Patterns on fabric with a directional pattern should be in the same direction. If the fabric has a large pattern, it is necessary that the right and left sides are symmetrical in pattern (see fig. 50, p. 127).

The direction of the warp threads on the pattern should match the direction on the fabric.

Pattern details are arranged so that the layout is economical.

The lines along which the cutting will be made and the control points are drawn with sharpened chalk or soap.

Open.

Cut out the details of the product along the lines of the seam allowances.

For the first fitting, cut out only large main parts.

Consolidation of students' knowledge.

Make a layout on graph paper in m 1: 4. Mutual control.

Having chosen a rational layout of patterns, students begin practical work.

Fizkultminutka.

Practical work ""Layout of patterns of parts on fabric and cutting"".

Induction training:

Exercise 1.

To study the technology of preparing fabric for cutting.

Task 2.

Prepare fabric for cutting.

Task 3.

Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric.

Task 4.

Cut out the details of the cut.

V. Consolidation of the studied material. (Oral or written, by cards)

Questions:

1. What operations are included in preparing the fabric for cutting?

2. How are fabric defects taken into account when cutting?

3. Why is the part outlined twice when laying out the pattern on the fabric?

4. What is decathing?

5. What safety rules should be observed when working with scissors, pins and needles?

6. What are the properties of warp and weft threads?

7. How much fabric is required to make a nightgown?

8. List the cut details of your model.

9. What lines on the cut should be transferred to the symmetrical side?

10. In what ways are the lines transferred to the symmetrical side?

11. Why are the middle lines applied to the details of the cut?

12. Why do they cut off the cut with pins?

VII. Lesson analysis.

The teacher analyzes the lesson, makes the necessary comments. Evaluates the work of teams, announces estimates.

Homework : learn the rules for preparing the fabric and cut details for cutting, bring the fabric, cut details, a working box, sketch the layout of the cut details in a notebook.

How to sew linen? This fabric is rightfully considered the most environmentally friendly material. Clothes made from linen, the best choice for hot climates! Sewing linen is not difficult, but the preparation for work and the care of this fabric have their own characteristics.

We will talk in detail about the properties of linen and how to sew linen with your own hands.

linen features

Why is linen so popular? This fabric obtained from flax fibers has remarkable consumer properties! Linen perfectly absorbs moisture and dries quickly; in hot weather, linen clothes reduce body temperature by several degrees. Linen is not electrified, resistant to pollution and even has antiseptic properties! Linen fabrics will serve you for a very long time. Over time, linen does not turn yellow, but becomes lighter and softer.

The main disadvantage of 100% linen is wrinkling and a tendency to both shrink after washing and stretch during wear. To compensate for these shortcomings, mixed fabrics are produced. Linen is mixed with silk, viscose, elastane, wool.

Plain weave of natural linen is well recognizable, it is also distinguished by the presence of thickening on some threads, up to small knots. The fewer such blotches, the better quality linen you hold in your hands. Before buying, be sure to run your hand over the fabric, if possible, it is desirable to attach a cut to the body. Some types of linen can prick and leave an unpleasant sensation on the skin, although most often linen fabrics, on the contrary, are very pleasant to wear.

Please note that linen will definitely shrink when washed. Therefore, buy a cut with a margin, about 10% more than recommended for your model.

Model selection

Linen fabrics are suitable for almost any clothing.

Please note that during wear, linen can stretch a lot, especially in places prone to bending (for example, knees). Therefore, you should not sew products of an adjacent silhouette from linen or use a lining.

Cutting preparation

Like all natural materials, linen fabrics need obligatory decatization! Light plain fabrics can be soaked in hot water, and fabrics of dark colors and with a pattern - in water with a temperature of up to 40 degrees. If in the future you plan to wash the product in the machine, wash the fabric in the same way.

To avoid warping, we recommend basting or topstitching the fabric with the right side folded inward. Do not use spin to avoid strong creases in the fabric. Then dry the fabric, straightening it as much as possible. Iron slightly damp linen with a hot steam iron.

How to sew linen with your own hands? Linen fabrics are easy to work with. They are easy to cut, grind and they lend themselves well to the WTO.

The edge of linen fabrics often frays a lot, so cut out pieces with slightly larger allowances. Process the allowances as quickly as possible. If your fabric has a loose structure, it is worth strengthening the place where the zipper is embroidered with non-woven fabric.

Check on a piece of fabric how the seam behaves and if the fabric near the line “creeps”, glue the seams with a narrow strip of interlining. The line should go straight along the interlining, stepping back 1-2 mm from its edge.

Linen care

As already mentioned, linen products stretch during wear, but restore their shape after washing. Wash linen at the temperature at which it was decanted (or specified by the manufacturer).

Colored fabrics may shed, so wash them separately at temperatures up to 40 degrees with a detergent for colored fabrics. Do not spin at high speeds and dry flat.

Wet linen should be ironed at high temperature using steam.

The fabric is an interlacing of equity threads (main) running along the edge, and transverse (weft) threads. The direction of the thread in the fabric can be determined by stretching and by sound: the fabric is more difficult to stretch along the lobar thread, and when the fabric is twitched along the lobar thread, the sound will be more distinct, and it will be muffled along the transverse thread.

There are a lot of weaving patterns, but there are three main ones: linen, satin (satin) and twill.

In plain weave, the warp threads alternate with the weft threads, so the surface of the fabric is smooth, matte, the same on the front and back sides.

In plain weave printed fabrics, the front side is determined by the brightness and clarity of the pattern, and in plain-dyed fabrics - by the quality of processing (there are fewer knots and villi on the front side). Plain weave produces: most cotton fabrics - chintz, calico, linen and some dress fabrics; linen fabrics - linen, cushioning; many types of silk fabrics - crepe de chine, crepe georgette, linen, etc.; some woolen dress and suit fabrics.

In satin (satin) weave, the front side of the fabric, in contrast to the wrong side, is smooth and shiny. Glitter is formed as a result of the fact that one weft thread overlaps 4-8 warp threads. If one warp thread overlaps several weft threads, then this weave is called satin.

Satin weave produces such fabrics as satin, satin, crepe-satin, lining and some others.

In a twill weave, weaves form on the fabric in the form of diagonal stripes running from one edge to the other. On the front side of the fabric, diagonal stripes are directed from bottom to top to the right. Twill weave produces: cotton fabrics - bumazeya, tights, twill, paper cashmere, etc.; woolen - cashmere, boston, gabardine, etc.: silk - lining, a number of dresses, raincoats.

When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the fabric: chop off the sliding one with pins, and if it is loose, increase the allowance for seams and stocks and be sure to overcast the cuts - the cut edges of the parts. From wrinkled fabrics and fabrics with a loose weave of threads, it is not recommended to sew tightly fitting products. Products from fabrics of increased extensibility should be made on a lining.

In order for the finished product to retain its size and not deform when worn, the fabric must be decatered before cutting, i.e. treat with water vapor. To do this, wet the cotton fabric in a small amount of warm water with the addition of vinegar or salt, without squeezing, dry and iron from the wrong side; soak the linen fabric for a short time in hot water, dry and iron on the front side; soak a fabric made of artificial fiber in slightly warm water with the addition of vinegar, wring it out slightly and roll it into a dry sheet, and then iron it from the inside while still wet; roll a woolen or silk fabric tightly into a damp, well-wrung out sheet and leave it in this position for 5-8 hours or hold the fabric over hot steam, and then iron it from the wrong side with a hot iron through an iron.

In all these cases, iron any fabric only along the shared thread. After decathing, the fabric should dry completely. Very thin fabrics can be ironed with a hot iron through a moistened ironing iron without pre-moistening them.

At the cut edge of the fabric intended for sewing the product, pull out the transverse thread (weft) and align the edge along it. If the fabric is skewed, moisten it and pull in the desired direction, and then iron along the shared thread.

The consumption of fabric for the product depends on the model and size of the figure. The more complex the model, the greater the fabric consumption. The complex elements of the model include wide skirts, raglan and one-piece sleeves, draperies, figured undercuts, reliefs, coquettes, collars, pockets, inlays, flounces, frills, frills, molds, etc. It is necessary to take into account the width of the fabric, the direction of the pile and pattern, so how to adjust the pattern will require additional fabric along the length, regardless of its width, and the percentage of shrinkage (mainly along the longitudinal thread) depends on the fibrous composition of the fabric, averaging for: cotton fabric 3-5%, woolen and semi-woolen 3-4% , natural silk 2-3%, artificial silk 4-8%, staple fabric 4-6%. Synthetic fabrics practically do not shrink.

To determine the consumption of fabric, mark its width on a sheet of paper and lay out the details of the pattern of the product, taking into account the direction of the grain thread indicated on the details, allowances for seams and stocks, fitting the pattern and shrinkage of the fabric.

For cutting, fold the fabric in half along the transverse thread (along the weft) or along the shared (warp) side inward, depending on the width of the fabric and the characteristics of the model, adjusting the pattern. First, place the large details of the pattern (back, shelf, etc.), and then between them - small ones, strictly following the coincidence of the direction of the grain thread on the fabric and on the details of the pattern (Figure 18). This is important because, as already noted, the fabric along the longitudinal thread stretches much less during wear, shrinks less during washing, dry cleaning and ironing than along the transverse thread. The direction of the shared thread on the details varies depending on the model - they can also be cut along a transverse, oblique thread. Having laid out the details, check with a ruler or centimeter tape the correct layout of the pattern details along the shared thread.

On plain-dyed fabrics or with an indistinct pattern, for economical cutting, pattern parts can be laid out in different directions, observing the direction of the grain thread and the distance for seam allowances. On the rest of the fabrics, place the details with the upper cut in one direction (except for facings). On pile fabrics or with a clearly defined one-sided pattern, with an asymmetric cage or stripe, mark the direction of the pattern or pile on the wrong side with a chalk arrow and make sure that it is not disturbed when laying out the details of the pattern. IN finished goods from flannel, baize, cotton suede, the pile should be directed from top to bottom, so that when worn, a smooth surface of the fabric is maintained, and in products made of velvet, panne velvet, velveteen - from bottom to top, so that the color of the fabric is more juicy. Also mark the detected fabric defects with chalk and place the parts so that the defect is not in a visible place of the product or the fabric area with the defect does not fall under the pattern when cutting.

When laying out the details of the pattern on fabrics with a large, clearly defined pattern, you need to take into account that it must be combined in the side, front and back seams, and also determine the pattern (check or strip) that is most suitable for placing the middle of the product details (back. shelves, sleeves, etc.). In addition, it is necessary to monitor the coincidence of the pattern in paired parts, tucks, etc. Sometimes, in order to save fabric, it is possible to cut out parts with wedges or extensions, placing them in inconspicuous places: the lower halves of the sleeves or shelves at the side seams, on the lower collar, facings, selections below the lapel line, on the belt at the side seam. If extensions have to be made in prominent places, then they should be used as fittings. For example, the back can be made in two parts with a seam in the middle or in three parts on the yoke. Details such as the lower parts of the collar, cuffs, leaflets, facings for the neck and bottom of the sleeves should be hemmed so that the direction of the grain thread on these details, as well as on the main ones, coincides.

Having placed all the details of the pattern on the fabric, pin them with pins, circle the contour, shaped lines and control marks with finely sharpened tailor's chalk or a dry bar of soap (soap does not crumble and does not stain the fabric during work, the soap trace quickly disappears under a hot iron). Give allowances for seams: 0.7 cm along the sprout and neck, 1.5-3 cm along the shoulder and side sections, 1-1.5 cm along the armhole, 3-4 cm along the waist, 3-8 cm along the bottom of the product, 1-1.5 cm along the sleeve hem, 2-3 cm along the back and front sections of the sleeve, 0.7 cm along the bottom of the sleeve. ). Place parts that are not cut in the middle (back, front, collar, etc.) on the fabric so that their middle runs along its fold.

After trimming, remove the details of the pattern and, so that the fabric does not move, fasten it with pins. Place the pins on the details of the product at a distance of 3-5 cm from the chalk lines or the fold of the details. The distance between the pins is 12-15 cm in straight sections and lines and 8-10 cm in curly ones (Figure 1b, c).

If there are seams in the middle of the back or front, then sweep the details with running stitches, and lay snares along the contour, shaped lines and control marks, clearly marking the corners and roundings. Along these lines, the product will be swept and then sewn on the machine. Mark the middle of the solid parts (back, front, skirt panels) with interlining stitches. When cutting parts with asymmetric elements, lay the fabric on the table unfolded face up, place the parts on the fabric also face up. Circle the contour and shaped lines with chalk, and then lay running stitches with a thin thread: 2-3 cm on straight sections, 1-2 cm on curly sections, 0.5-1 cm on curves.

When cutting the fabric, do not move it and do not lift the details of the cut. The part should be located to the right of the scissors, and the cut fabric should be held with your left hand. Do not cut darts on the details.

When cutting in a straight line, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the scissors move strictly along the chalky line of the seam allowance, and try to cut with the middle of the cutting part of the scissors. When cutting along smooth lines, on the contrary, it is necessary to cut with the ends of the scissors. The narrow end of the blade should be under the fabric. The exception is lace fabrics, as the narrow end of the scissors can get into the pattern and deform it. It is convenient to cut with scissors from yourself straight or from yourself to the left.