Extra-curricular activity "Russian shawl holiday". Russian shawls and scarves The meaning of a scarf in a woman's life

Shawls and scarves were the traditional headdress of Russian peasant women 100-150 years ago. Many nations had a tradition according to which women had to hide their hair, since it was believed that female hair possess witchcraft power, a woman with an uncovered head becomes an easy prey and receptacle evil spirits. That is why it was the height of indecency to appear simple-haired, and to disgrace a woman it was enough to tear off her headdress. It was the heaviest insult. From here it happened to “goof off”, that is, to disgrace.

In the old days, the head was covered with towels, which were called ubrus. Information about ubrus towels has been preserved in written monuments since the 12th century. The custom of covering one's head with towels existed in some places in Russia as early as the 19th century. In ancient times, pieces of fabric - boards - were also used to cover the head. Towels-brusses and scarves - scarves were usually worn over the headdress, and only with the death of the original folk costume in the 19th century did the head towels go out of everyday life, and they began to cover the head with scarves first on soft hairs (a soft hat made of fabric that was worn immediately after the wedding) and then straight to the hair.

Before the advent of large-scale industry, towels and scarves were woven by peasant women on simple home looms. They were either decorated with patterned woven stripes, embroideries, or dyed and stamped with printed designs. The kerchiefs themselves appeared in Rus' in the 16th-17th centuries and were called "ditches". These were rather large boards made of thin silk with multi-colored stripes. Ditches were traded by eastern merchants, they were brought from afar, and for a Russian woman they were a carefully kept treasure. Such a scarf was worn loose, thrown over the headdress in the middle of the oblong side, wrapping the whole figure with it.

In the funds of the East Kazakhstan Regional Architectural-Ethnographic and Natural-Landscape Museum of the Reserve, shawls and scarves of textile production of the late 19th-20th centuries are carefully preserved and enchant with their diversity and beauty.

It was the most desired gift - always in all cases, love, attention or affection was expressed by the gift of a headscarf. Shawls and shawls were bought in shops in the village or in the city, they were expensive, worn carefully. The archives of the museum testify: before dispossession (1920s), rich families had forty sundresses and forty shawls. Most of the ancient scarves and shawls of the museum collection are festive ones, which is why they have survived to this day. They were bought by parents for daughters as a dowry, they were given for a wedding, a husband bought his wife, a brother bought his sister. Especially loved were cashmere shawls - "cashmere" - so our residents affectionately called them. Antique shawls are distinguished by the brightness of colors, the clarity of the pattern, and the realistic interpretation of floral motifs.

The fashion for shawls came to Europe at the end of the 18th century after the Egyptian campaigns of Napoleon I, who brought an oriental shawl of extraordinary beauty as a gift to Josephine. Soon shawls became an indispensable part of the female aristocratic costume. Patterned shawls woven from the down of Tibetan goats cost from 1 to 15 thousand rubles. a piece. Genuine oriental shawls that reigned in Europe in the 1800s and 1810s were gradually supplanted by the fabrication of French and English production. Very soon, the fashion for shawls came to Russia, where they were in great demand. According to the statements of the Department of Foreign Trade for 1825 and 1826, the value of bringing foreign shawls to Russia was more than two million rubles. in year.

Since the end of the 18th century, the production of large scarves and shawls, similar to Kashmir ones, has been successfully developing in Russia. The factories of V.A. Eliseeva in the Voronezh province, N.A. Merlina in the Nizhny Novgorod province and D.A. Kolokoltsov in the Saratov province.

V.A. Eliseeva, trying to unravel the secret of making shawls, carefully guarded by the Indians, cut out pieces with patterns and unraveled the fabric different ways. Five years of hard searching brought desired result. Indian shawls were woven from the wool of Tibetan goats, Eliseeva replaced this wool with the down of saigas, which were found in abundance in the steppes of Western Siberia. At Russian manufactories, methods were developed for processing this raw material for the preparation of the finest yarn. A bundle of yarn of 13 grams contained a thread 4.5 kilometers long. A shawl cloth woven from such yarn, according to the very texture of the fabric - its subtlety, softness, luster - created a great artistic effect. The find was so successful that a few years later, when the fame of Eliseeva’s workshop shawls spread widely, they wrote about them: ′′ This fluff ... turned out to be so thin and soft that the yarn spun from it is likened to silk, and the shawls prepared from it , not only are not inferior in purity and fineness to real Kashmiri fabrics, but surpass them.

Exceptional perfection in weaving patterned shawls was achieved by craftswomen of the manufactory Merlina. The shawls they created were double-sided, and when worn, both front and back sides could be used. Weaving with the finest threads of the most complex patterns, sometimes having up to 60 shades, required an enormous strain of vision, extraordinary dexterity and flexibility of the fingers. Therefore, young girls from the serfs were involved in the work. The work was hard. After 10 years, workers received freedom from serfdom. But the price for freedom turned out to be too high - by this time they were losing their sight and becoming disabled. At some manufactories, almshouses were created for them.

At all Russian industrial exhibitions, including the first international industrial exhibition in London in 1851, these shawls were awarded the highest awards. The fame of Russian shawls was so strong that Caulaincourt - the envoy of Napoleon I - "traded Merlin's shawl for the Empress".

In imitation of colored shawls, expensive and inaccessible to a wide range of people, Russian manufactories began to produce printed scarves. The main production centers were Moscow and Pavlovsky Posad. The most famous enterprises in Moscow were the manufactories of the Guchkovs, Rochefort, Sopova, Sapozhkova and others, in Pavlovsky Posad - Labzin and Gryaznov. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Association of Manufactories of Y. Labzin and V. Gryaznov (currently Pavlovo Posadskaya Shawl Manufactory OJSC) was the largest enterprise for the production of woolen scarves and shawls, which became famous far beyond the borders of Russia. More than two thousand people worked here. Warehouses of goods were located in Moscow, Kharkov, Omsk, Romny, Uryupin, at the Nizhny Novgorod and Irbit fairs.

For almost the entire 19th century, scarves and shawls were stuffed by hand. The tradition of heeling in Russia comes from ancient times. Since time immemorial, Russian clothing has been made from flax, on which the heel was especially good, so the art of stuffing drawings has reached a high level of skill in Russia. The process of heeling is complex and lengthy. First, the woven fabric was bleached, then it went through a series of preparatory operations before dyeing. The fabric was cut to the size of scarves, fastened on a wooden frame, and for stuffing the most complex patterns, it was glued to a table covered with thick cloth or felt. The pattern on the fabric was applied with carved wooden boards: flowers and manners. When printing, they beat the shape with a heavy cast-iron hammer so that the paint would better saturate the fabric, from where the term "heel" or "stuffing" came from. Paints were applied to the fabric with flowers, and each color required a separate board. The contour of the pattern was stuffed with manners. Their manufacture was more laborious: at first, the pattern on the tree was burned, filled with lead. The contour thus obtained was superimposed on separate boards. Depending on the size of the scarf, the pattern was divided into 4.16, or 24 parts. First, the contour of the pattern was stuffed, then all its colors were sequentially stuffed. Some shawls with complex patterns required up to 400 patch boards.

Creating a pattern for a shawl was a very important matter; artists were specially engaged in this. The drawing itself was valuable. So that the drawing could not be used by competitors, he was insured. The created drawing got to the colorist. The color scheme distinguished Russian shawls from Eastern and Western ones. Saturated, but very pure and delicate tones of red, pink, green, blue, turquoise, violet, yellow in the decorative floral patterns of Russian shawls created a major mood that corresponded to the Russian folk taste. Scarves were worn by girls and women at different times of the year, on weekdays - simpler, on holidays - more elegant, they gave the women's costume a special colorfulness and originality. The scarf, along with the sundress, has become a symbol of the Russian costume.

Researchers M. Shvetsova, who visited our region in the late 1890s, N. Grinkova - in the 1920s, noted the beauty of the headdress of peasant women. Girls wear shawls rolled up in a wide strip, which is superimposed in the middle on the forehead and wraps around the head, the ends of which are twisted at the back and transferred forward again with skillful curls, it turns out something like a crown, high in front and lowering behind; the crown remains open. Married women leave the corner of the shawl unwrapped to cover the crown of the head, the elderly unfold the ends of the shawl over the back, and the young twist around the head.

In the urban and merchant environment, the custom to cover the shoulders with a shawl took root, which corresponded to the Russian tradition of the costume to hide the shape of the female body.

In the XX - XXI centuries scarves and shawls have become one of the necessary accessories. Modern textile products preserve and develop traditions, responding to the demands of fashion and the tastes of the time.

A collection of shawls and scarves occupies a worthy place in the funds of the East Kazakhstan Regional Architectural-Ethnographic and Natural-Landscape Museum-Reserve. In 2009, it has 205 storage units and is constantly updated with new exhibits. This includes scarves and shawls made of wool, silk, cotton of the late 19th - 20th centuries of Russian and foreign textile production. The exhibits were purchased by the museum staff from all ethnic groups in the villages of the East Kazakhstan region, the cities of Ust-Kamenogorsk, Leninogorsk (now the city of Ridder), Zyryanovsk, Semipalatinsk.

Many peoples had a tradition according to which women had to hide their hair, as it was believed that women's hair had witchcraft power. A woman with an uncovered head becomes an easy prey and a receptacle for evil spirits, which is why it was the height of indecency to appear simple-haired, and in order to disgrace a woman, it was enough to tear the headdress off her head. From here it happened - "to goof off", that is, to be disgraced.

Bandage "in a woman's way".
Shawl with "raw"

Archival materials of the museum testify: “Earlier, without a headscarf, a woman - God forbid - go out to the people! At home, she combs her hair, braids braids, 2 pigtails, puts on a shashmurka (a soft hat made of fabric) and ties a scarf. Researchers: M. Shvetsova, who visited our region in the late 1890s, N. Grinkova - in the 1920s, describing woman suit, noted the beauty of the female headdress. Girls wear shawls rolled up in a wide strip, which is superimposed in the middle on the forehead and wraps around the head, the ends of it are twisted at the back and transferred forward again with skillful curls, something like a crown is obtained, while the crown remains open. Married women leave the corner of the shawl unwrapped to cover the crown of the head.

Previously, they wore shawls, half-shawls, scarves and undershawls - such a classification of scarves, and with variants of explanations, was common among the inhabitants of our region: “a shawl and a half-shawl must be with tassels, a half-shawl is smaller than a shawl, a scarf without tassels, it can be one-color and multi-colored, liner - with a pattern in the corner. Or: “The shawl is big, but the scarf is smaller. They simply tied a scarf - they wore it at home. The shawl is also with tassels, but smaller shawls, it was worn over a scarf. You can't wear a shawl every day."

Cashmere and so-called "Turkish" or carpet scarves and shawls were especially popular among the peasants and merchants. Informants call them raw shawls, referring to the untwisted silk threads with which the pattern is woven. So, Rakhmanova Kharitinya Matveevna, born in 1926, a resident of the city of Zyryanovsk, recalling the stories of her mother, told that shawls with raw materials were brought from China by merchants. They left with horns (antlers), and from there they brought goods that they sold in the villages. For such a shawl, one could give a cow or three rubles. These shawls were called three-rouble ones. Silk shawls with two colored threads were called "two-faced" by our local residents, and thin, light-weight silk shawls - "wind blowers". A characteristic artistic technique for decorating scarves was a combination of contrasting bright colors: black with orange, green with red, and so on. Scarves and shawls were bought in shops in the village or in the city, they were expensive and worn with care. Before dispossession (1920s) "... rich families had forty sundresses and forty shawls." The old shawls of the museum collection are mostly festive, which is why they have survived to this day. They were bought by parents for daughters as a dowry, they were given for a wedding, a husband bought his wife, a brother bought his sister. In the famine years of the 1930s and 1940s, mothers cut shawls into pieces for their daughters as a keepsake.

The ritual significance of scarves is also known. By local wedding tradition among Russian old-timers, the bride and groom were designated by special ritual details of the costume. The groom was usually tied over his shoulders with shawls folded diagonally with an angle or stripe. The bride was covered with a special cloak that covered her head, reaching from behind to her waist, hanging down over her face in front. In the village of Sennoy, for example, it was made from two uncut coupons of printed shawls, in Bystrukh they threw on a cashmere shawl - “kashamirka”.

KP-18-20406
Tatar woman in a silk knitted shawl

GIK-7-1477
Glubokovsky district, village of Tarkhanka

Kazakh women, according to informants, in the post-war years (late 1940s) began to wear shawls and scarves instead of "borik", "saukele", "tubeteek". At present, the Kazakhs have preserved a transformed version of the rite of kidnapping the bride: if the girl who entered the house young man throw a scarf over her head, then she becomes a bride.

Most of the knitted silk shawls were purchased from Tatar women. According to informants, every wealthy Tatar family had such a shawl, it was tied around the head, sometimes over a cap - kalfak, one end went down on the chest, and the other was tied around the neck.

The special value of collections of this type are shawls and scarves with hallmarks and trademarks of the enterprises where they were made. In the collection of our museum there is a multicolored woolen shawl of the end of the 19th century with the trademark of the Konstantinov factory in Moscow.

Printed chintz shawls and shawls with a bright floral pattern along the sides on a light or colored background were the most popular in the city and the countryside. There are cotton shawls with tambour embroidery, multicolored, twill in the collection. Unfortunately, there are no chintz scarves with thematic patterns covering important events in state, social and cultural life. This interesting page in the history of the scarf is probably lost to us.

Creating beautiful scarves is an extremely delicate matter and requires great skill and creativity - proof of this is the museum collection. All shawls in the collection are industrial products, among them there are unique monuments of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, allowing you to see the artistic and technical features of the textiles of that time.

Museum archive. B/N folder, 2007, pp. 10-11. Expedition to Zyryanovsk. Informant: Ovchinnikova A.K., born in 1923, originally from the village. Snegirevo.
Museum archive. Folder B / N, 2006, p. 198. Informant: Ermolaeva A.F., born in 1928, p. Bystrukha, Glubokovsky district.
Museum archive. B/N folder, 2007, pp. 10-11. Informant: Ovchinnikova A.K.
Museum archive. Folder 1/64, 1981, p. 29. Informant: Korotkova H.K., born in 1903, from the village of Verkh-Myakonka, Zyryanovsky district.

Elizarova L.I.

Ekaterina Sargsyan
Summary of the lesson “History of things. Russian shawl"

Target: Introducing children to the history of the Russian scarf. Introducing children to Russian folk culture

Song recording sounds "Pedlars", screen saver.

In the hands of girls handkerchiefs, the boys are belted with a sash. The exit of children to the music. The children lined up, bowed to the ground to the guests. Took their places.

1. About handkerchief history.

Today we will talk about a simple thing at first glance, scarf.

Russia has long been famous for its handkerchiefs. They appeared with us almost 200 years ago. They were brought from Turkey and India. These were patterned, woven from the fluff of Tibetan goats, handkerchiefs.

Beautiful, bright handkerchief worn by both the queen and the peasant woman. He kept warm, gave health and good mood.

Once upon a time, grandmothers passed on to their granddaughters the most precious thing, it was handkerchief. Men, leaving on a journey, in square boards wrapped bread, or a handful of native land.

Sounds the melody of a song "Give me handkerchief» , on-screen video sequence and splash screen handkerchief.

Times change, but only handkerchief remains the best gift. After all handkerchief not just a headdress, but a symbol of love and beauty.

Guys, tell me, do your mothers, grandmothers wear handkerchiefs?

Required attribute national costume Russian woman had a headscarf, it was worn on the occasion of a holiday, or celebration, or sadness.

In the past it was always required handkerchief necessarily covered the woman's head. And only in the 20th century it became possible to throw it on the shoulders.

Today it is believed that every woman should have ready handkerchief, and a real fashionista is not even alone.

Show video series about scarf.

I was going through my closet yesterday and found

Mamin Pavloposadsky handkerchief.

Something important was immediately remembered by the soul,

How freedom took a sip.

And in handkerchief itself: field, field blooms!

And the flowers in it are insanely beautiful ...

In every thread, dear Russia lives:

Rivers ... Mountains ... Roads and fields!

In each thread, the sky stretches high!

Homespun, colorful pattern,

He will protect you with warmth and love,

When it becomes dank and painful!

I couldn't resist putting it on, I'm spinning

Near the mirror, like a petal ...

I go down, no, I plunge into Rus' -

In my mother's pavloposadsky handkerchief …

Watching a video about Pavloposadsky scarf.

2. Russian scarves were recognized as the best in the world thanks to the work of talented artists and craftsmen.

Creation story handkerchief. (video show)

3. Final questions - quiz:

1. Name the attribute of the national costume Russian woman.

2. Who wore it and when handkerchief.

3. Why handkerchief was the best gift ever.

4. What handkerchiefs were recognized as the best in the world.

5. How many people worked to create handkerchief.

In Rus', guys, not a single folk festival was complete without an elegant, patterned handkerchief. Let's play with you handkerchiefs.

A game "Burn, burn brightly..."

4. Bottom line classes: Business before pleasure.

This concludes our conversation about handkerchiefs. And as a keepsake, please, take dolls - charms from small handkerchiefs. These charms will protect you from everything bad and bring good luck.

Everyone Russian headscarves to the face, wear Russian shawls.

Sounds the melody of a song "Peddler", on the splash screen - handkerchief.

Russian shawls. How often they warmed half-naked beauties in the 19th century, for whom it was easy to catch a cold in their transparent dresses, or they adorned the shoulders of simple peasant women and girls. Judging by the portraits of Russian artists V.L. Borovikovsky and I.P. Argunov, shawls on women's shoulders appeared in Russia in the 90s of the 18th century.

One of the trophies in 1799, the young Bonaparte brought cashmere shawls from the East. They were quite expensive back then. Ladies had a special preference for Indian shawls. But the Turkish ones were not inferior to them in beauty and price. Then came English and French. When the ladies opened the boxes with gifts brought to them from the East, the first thing they could feel was the smell of patchouli. What did it say? Well, of course - there was a shawl. And what does patchouli have to do with it, which soon began to be used in perfume? The fact is that shawls were sprinkled with patchouli to protect them from moths. A little time has passed since Napoleon surprised the French ladies with a valuable gift...

In 1806, the production of their Russian shawls began in Russia. Russian Nizhny Novgorod landowner Nadezhda Merlina, then Saratov landowner D.A. Kolokoltsov, Voronezh landowner V.A. Eliseev - they all started the production of shawls. At first, shawls in Russia were produced according to the principle of the Oriental - Kashmiri, Persian and Turkish. They were large sizes from the wool of Tibetan goats. English and French shawls were also made.

The ornament was all in one oriental style- motifs in the form of arches, beans and other elements filled with small floral ornaments. All shawls - both eastern and western - had a front and back side. The shawls made in Russia were distinguished by high perfection and were famous in the world market. It should be noted that in the workshops of Vera Andreevna Eliseeva, for the first time, Tibetan goat hair was replaced with saiga wool. According to reviews of that time from the “Journal of Manufactories and Trade” “... this fluff turned out to be so delicate, thin, soft that the yarn spun from it is likened to silk, and the shawls made from it are not only not inferior to ... Kashmir, but also surpass their". There were 450 meters of thread in 13 grams of wool. Imagine how thin the yarn and the product from it were. But that is not all. They wove on small looms containing not shuttles, but small needles, the number of which was as many as the shades in the product. And our Russian shawls did not have front and wrong side they were the same on both sides. Tie as you wish. The color scheme was varied - bright, colorful, with a rich flora - there were roses, poppies, lilacs, phloxes.

... And in the light folds of a women's shawl
There was silence in the night. A. Blok

Thanks to the application new technology Russian shawls have become a luxurious addition to the dress of secular ladies. The art of wearing a shawl, draping in it, and even dancing with a shawl was taught to girls in aristocratic families with early years. In the novel “Crime and Punishment” by F. M. Dostoevsky, Marmeladov says to Raskolnikov: “Know that my wife was brought up in a noble provincial noble institute and danced with a shawl with the governor and with other persons upon graduation, for which a gold medal and acclaiming list received".

The names of those craftswomen who worked in the workshops of the above-named landowners have not come down to us, but their contemporaries highly appreciated the skill of these nameless women. Shawls were made for a long time - from six months to 2.5 years and were very expensive. Serf craftswomen at the landowner V.A. Eliseeva worked for up to 10 years, after which they received freedom with a small capital, and they were not needed, after working for such a period, the workers lost their eyesight.

Few such shawls have survived today, but if you look at the paintings of Russian painters, we can still imagine the beauty that Russian women craftsmen created.

... But remained in the folds of a crumpled shawl
the smell of honey from innocent hands. S. Yesenin

Such expensive shawls could not be available to many. Therefore, silk, woolen, cambric shawls, dyed in different colors, with a printed pattern, became more widespread. Gradually, shawls turned from luxury items into an integral part of the outfit. And everyone put on a shawl - from aristocrats to townswomen, merchants and peasant women.

Time passes, centuries change - fashion is changing faster and faster, borrowing the details and elements of past years. Therefore, even now in your wardrobe a Russian shawl will not be superfluous. It is not affected by time. This is a classic item. women's wardrobe.

The scarf at all times was the personification of purity, modesty and morality. It is a piece of fabric of a rectangular, square or triangular shape, which can be tied around the head, neck or thrown over the shoulders. The history of its appearance dates back two thousand years, however, to this day this accessory remains an integral part of the wardrobe of a modern person, today you can buy wholesale scarves on tranini.ru. It is believed that the prototype of the modern scarf appeared in the Stone Age, when people protected their heads and necks from bad weather with a simple piece of cloth. It is generally accepted that scarves appeared in China, but they were popular in ancient Egypt and the Roman Empire.

The first to wear headscarves were warriors from Ancient China and Rome. Roman legionnaires wrapped a piece of cloth around their necks during campaigns, and they did this in order to protect themselves from wind and bad weather. Archaeologists have discovered manuscripts of the history of Ancient Egypt, which mentioned a quadrangular piece of matter that was thrown over the shoulders and served as a symbol of the social status of the person who wore it. Mentions of this headdress were also contained in the texts of the New Testament. It was used to cover the head and wipe sweat from the face.

In the era of early Christianity, the scarf was an integral part of the women's wardrobe. Mentions of him can be read in the history of France. It is believed that the French king Louis 14 became a trendsetter for wearing a neckerchief. He borrowed this method of tying fabric around the neck from the Croats invited to the king's court.

History of the Russian headscarf has its roots in the 12th century, the predecessor of which was the ubrus, which was a decorated white linen towel. Ubrus was decorated with embroidery and lace. A few centuries later, in the 17th century, the first scarf appeared. Since the second half of the 19th century, chintz, brocade, downy and silk printed shawls have come into fashion. In Rus', only married women covered their heads with this piece of clothing, but the girl did not have the right to wear this headdress. Orenburg shawls made of goat down have become a special asset of Russian culture. They were known even abroad. They appeared at the end of the 17th century, and in the 19th all of Europe knew about them.

Modern scarves are very beautiful and luxurious. By right, this wardrobe item is a universal accessory, thanks to which you can always look different. It can be part of everyday wear, and an elegant accessory. It is often used not only as fashion accessory but also as an element of their own unique style.