Creative project "shawl - a fashionable magical accessory. What you need to know about the Russian scarf Information about vintage scarves
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These shawls originate from a simple piece of white embroidered cloth called an ubrus. By the 17th century, the ubrus gave way to a scarf or shawl.
vector-images.com, CC BY-SA 3.0By the beginning of the 18th century, traditions of handicraft textile production already existed in the region of Pavlovsky Posad. In the Bogorodsky district of the Moscow province, which historically included Pavlovsky Posad, there were more than 70 silk scarf factories owned by peasants.
, CC BY-SA 3.0 The peasant enterprise, from which the shawl manufactory subsequently developed, was created in 1795 by a peasant in the village of Pavlovo, Ivan Dmitrievich Labzin. Labzins had a small production. Most of the materials were distributed to the peasants of the surrounding villages, who produced silk and paper fabrics and scarves at home mills.
Great-grandson, Yakov Ivanovich Labzin, together with Vasily Ivanovich Gryaznov, converted the factory to the production of woolen shawls with a printed pattern, which were widely used in Russian society at that time. The first Pavlovo Posad shawls were produced in the early 60s of the XIX century.
Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0 The heyday of the manufactory falls on the 1870-1880s. In 1881 Yakov Labzin received the title of supplier to the Grand Duchess Alexandra Petrovna, the enterprise was awarded silver medals at the All-Russian Art and Industrial Exhibitions. In 1896, at an industrial exhibition in Nizhny Novgorod, the right to depict the state emblem on signboards and labels was obtained.
After the October Revolution, the enterprise was nationalized and renamed the Staro-Pavlovskaya factory. The enterprise expands its assortment, attempts are made to modernize the appearance of scarves (images of animals, drawings on the themes of revolution, industrialization and collectivization), production of cotton fabrics.
Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0 In 1937, the factory participated in the World Art and Industrial Exhibition in Paris.
In the post-war period, the colors and range of scarves expanded while maintaining traditional motifs and patterns.
In 1958, at the World Exhibition in Brussels, Pavlovian shawls were awarded the Big Gold Medal.
Guide to Russian Crafts, CC BY-SA 3.0 In 1963, the factory was named the Moscow Handkerchief Production Association. Since 1995 - Pavlovo Posadskaya Shawl Manufactory OJSC.
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Start date: 17th century
Helpful information
History - Pavlovo Posad shawls
Factory names
After 1855, the handkerchief enterprise had different names:
1868 - Full partnership "Yakov Labzin and Vasily Gryaznov"
1892 - Partnership on shares "Partnership of Manufactories Y. Labzin and V. Gryaznov in Pavlovsky Posad"
1918 - the factory was nationalized and became known as
Staro-Pavlovskaya Factory No. 11 of the State Worsted Trust of the Supreme Economic Council
1928 - factory named after the 10th anniversary of the Red Army of the Main Directorate of the woolen industry
1963 - Moscow production shawl association
1989 - Pavlovo-Posad production shawl association
1992 - Closed Joint-Stock Company "Pavlovo-Posad Shawls"
since 1995 - Open Joint Stock Company "Pavlovo Posad Shawl Manufactory"
Vasily Pavlovoposadsky
Vasily Gryaznov was widely known during his lifetime among the surrounding population not only as a manufacturer, but also for his charitable deeds. For many years he was the headman of the Pavlovsky Posad Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ.
In August 1999, V.I.Gryaznov was canonized by the Russian Orthodox Church as a locally venerated saint of the Moscow diocese as Righteous Vasily Pavlovoposadsky.
Ekaterina Sargsyan
Summary of the lesson “History of things. Russian shawl"
Target: Introducing children to the history of the Russian scarf. Introducing children to Russian folk culture
Song recording sounds "Pedlars", screen saver.
In the hands of girls handkerchiefs, the boys are belted with a sash. The exit of children to the music. The children lined up, bowed to the ground to the guests. Took their places.
1. About handkerchief history.
Today we will talk about a simple thing at first glance, scarf.
Russia has long been famous for its handkerchiefs. They appeared with us almost 200 years ago. They were brought from Turkey and India. These were patterned, woven from the fluff of Tibetan goats, handkerchiefs.
Beautiful, bright handkerchief worn by both the queen and the peasant woman. He kept warm, gave health and good mood.
Once upon a time, grandmothers passed on to their granddaughters the most precious thing, it was handkerchief. Men, leaving on a journey, in square boards wrapped bread, or a handful of native land.
Sounds the melody of a song "Give me handkerchief» , on-screen video sequence and splash screen handkerchief.
Times change, but only handkerchief remains the best gift. After all handkerchief not just a headdress, but a symbol of love and beauty.
Guys, tell me, do your mothers, grandmothers wear handkerchiefs?
Required attribute national costume Russian woman had a headscarf, it was worn on the occasion of a holiday, or celebration, or sadness.
In the past it was always required handkerchief necessarily covered the woman's head. And only in the 20th century it became possible to throw it on the shoulders.
Today it is believed that every woman should have ready handkerchief, and a real fashionista is not even alone.
Show video series about scarf.
I was going through my closet yesterday and found
Mamin Pavloposadsky handkerchief.
Something important was immediately remembered by the soul,
How freedom took a sip.
And in handkerchief itself: field, field blooms!
And the flowers in it are insanely beautiful ...
In every thread, dear Russia lives:
Rivers ... Mountains ... Roads and fields!
In each thread, the sky stretches high!
Homespun, colorful pattern,
He will protect you with warmth and love,
When it becomes dank and painful!
I couldn't resist putting it on, I'm spinning
Near the mirror, like a petal ...
I go down, no, I plunge into Rus' -
In my mother's pavloposadsky handkerchief …
Watching a video about Pavloposadsky scarf.
2. Russian scarves were recognized as the best in the world thanks to the work of talented artists and craftsmen.
Creation story handkerchief. (video show)
3. Final questions - quiz:
1. Name the attribute of the national costume Russian woman.
2. Who wore it and when handkerchief.
3. Why handkerchief was the best gift ever.
4. What handkerchiefs were recognized as the best in the world.
5. How many people worked to create handkerchief.
In Rus', guys, not a single folk festival was complete without an elegant, patterned handkerchief. Let's play with you handkerchiefs.
A game "Burn, burn brightly..."
4. Bottom line classes: Business before pleasure.
This concludes our conversation about handkerchiefs. And as a keepsake, please, take dolls - charms from small handkerchiefs. These charms will protect you from everything bad and bring good luck.
Everyone Russian headscarves to the face, wear Russian shawls.
Sounds the melody of a song "Peddler", on the splash screen - handkerchief.
Matiishena Ekaterina, Alyukova Christina, students of the 8th grade
The purpose of the work: to determine the value of a scarf for creating an image.
Learn the history of the scarf;
Learn how scarves are made;
Find out where and how the scarf is used in modern world;
Learn some ways to wear headscarves.
Learn some ways of making scarves;
Download:
Preview:
Introduction
At a smart scarf
There are four corners.
He looks like a meadow
What you won't find here
Different birds, flowers
Unprecedented beauty.
Well, we are ready for the cold
Wear a down scarf.
It even warms the nose
And we are not afraid of frost!
The fashion for shawls, scarves and stoles, it seems, has always existed - at all times these items of women's, and indeed men's wardrobes were necessary and appropriate. In some cases - as things exclusively utilitarian and necessary, sometimes as elegant details, the presence of which is dictated by comfort or fashion trends.
And what about in the modern world, can a scarf be considered an object that creates an image, helps to make the appearance stylish and exclusive, and, if necessary, change it beyond recognition?
The purpose of the work: to determine the value of a scarf for creating an image.
Tasks:
Learn the history of the scarf;
Learn how scarves are made;
Find out where and how the scarf is used in the modern world;
Learn some ways to wear headscarves.
Learn some ways of making scarves;
I. The history of the scarf
A shawl (or in the old way - a kerchief) is a quadrangular piece of fabric, all sides of which are equal to each other. Scarves are different - head, neck, nasal.
As early as the 2nd century, paper handkerchiefs existed in China. In ancient Rome, handkerchiefs were used to wipe sweat, they were called sudarium and pinteum. Blowing your nose in front of everyone was not accepted and was considered bad form. In the 3rd century AD a mappa scarf appeared in everyday life - they wiped their mouths at the table, they wrapped leftover food in it.
At the Byzantine court, only the ladies of the imperial family had the right to wear a headscarf, since it was a symbol of honor and nobility. Ladies fastened these air handkerchiefs on the left shoulder or elbow (Appendix 1).
In the Middle Ages, the handkerchief was a symbol romantic love. The ladies attached it to the spear of their knight (Appendix 2). The handkerchief was supposed to remind the knight of the purpose of his participation in the tournament - a victory in honor of his beloved. In the 16th century, handkerchiefs remained a luxury and were used exclusively by noble ladies. They were decorated with lace or embroidery and soaked in perfume.
In the East, handkerchiefs were the privilege of princes, who wore them under a sash. Throwing a handkerchief in the direction of a person (especially a woman) was a gesture of high respect. This tradition in Turkey survived until the 19th century.
In medieval Russia, a handkerchief was originally called a "wipe", in contrast to the "width", that is, an ordinary handkerchief. Scarves were made from a whole piece of fabric cut to the width, hence the word fly.
During the early Renaissance, shawls were considered a vital and functional accessory. The headscarves gradually became more embellished, serving as signs of the couple's love for each other. Every respected man wore a headscarf, and to this day it is considered a symbol of nobility and social rank.
During the Renaissance, the headscarf appears as a bride's dowry. It had different names and was used for various purposes: simple, made of the thinnest linen, used to wipe the nose, fazzoletto was a decorative, fashionable element of the costume. Ladies often held it in their hands to attract the attention of gentlemen. These scarves were very expensive and cost a fortune.
At the French court in the 16th century, there was a handkerchief for wiping tears, as well as a handkerchief for blowing your nose. These scarves were richly decorated with lace and embroidery.
The handkerchiefs were heavily perfumed to hide the smell of sweat, because instead of washing hands, it was customary to wipe the fingertips with a damp handkerchief,
When the fashion for snuffing tobacco appeared, ugly spots began to remain on the scarves, and the decorative scarf disappeared from use: it was replaced by the most ordinary scarf, similar to the one we use today. Already in the 18th century. the handkerchief became a mass product.
In the 19th century a small silk decorative, richly decorated handkerchief appeared again in everyday life, with which one could beautifully wipe a tear.
The history of the appearance of a scarf as a headdress begins in the distant XII century. In Rus', it was customary to wear an ubrus - a head towel, the prototype of modern scarves, the ubrus was thrown over the top of the headdress (Appendix 3). Ubrus made of the thinnest linen, decorated with pearls, was used on solemn occasions, such as marriage. In everyday life, women covered their heads with a chintz scarf. According to ancient Russian custom, the scarf was a symbol of marriage.
Since the 16th century, scarves for royal use and for sale have been made at manufactories near Moscow, and later the production of cotton scarves is being established. In the 19th century, woolen shawls and shawls became widespread, they were produced by manufactories in the Volga region, in the Ryazan and Voronezh regions.
In Europe, scarves and shawls became popular after the arrival of Napoleon in Egypt. Napoleon personally brought with him a large number of oriental shawls. Immediately, both in Europe and in Russia, shawls come into fashion - cable cars, large shawls made of fine silk, brought from the east and decorated with multi-colored stripes of fine wool, embroidered with gold or silver threads. In the future, scarves and shawls become an indispensable part of the wardrobe. In the Russian Empire, their production was very quickly established.
The most famous at that time were shawls and stoles of the manufactory of Nadezhda Merlina, made from the down of wild goats on hand looms. For a year, 16 craftswomen could only make 20 items. Merlina's Kashmiri shawls were a miracle of craft (Appendix 4). They were woven from the finest yarn, for which only the fluff of Tibetan goats was suitable, and at worst the fluff of saigas. From 13 grams of such yarn, a thread four and a half kilometers long was pulled. Shawls turned out weightless and delicate to the touch. Each shawl, which had dozens of shades and combinations, was woven by two craftswomen from one and a half to two years, and it cost a fortune - up to 12 thousand rubles. Such a shawl was the basis of the girl's dowry: the more such scarves in the chest, the richer the bride. Often, girls of marriageable age put on several shawls at once, one on top of the other, to show the wealth of the dowry.
In the peasant and merchant environment in the second half of the 19th century, “Turkish” square shawls began to enjoy great popularity, they were quite affordable, as they were produced on jacquard looms. Different manufactories made different designs, and it was from the drawing that it was possible to determine the place of origin of the shawl: bright yellow, green and blue flowers, and the scarves of the Moscow Trekhgorka merchants Prokhorovs were famous for their ornaments with dark blue and red roses, tulips and carnations.
In the late 1850s, they began to produce such shawls in the small town of Pavlovsky Posad near Moscow at an enterprise owned by merchants Yakov Ivanovich Labzin and Vasily Ivanovich Gryaznov. Pavlovian shawls of the period of the 1860s-1870s stylistically differed little from the shawls of Moscow manufactories, which were mainly decorated with a "Turkish" pattern. This pattern involves the use of certain ornaments in the form of a "bean" or "cucumber", geometrized plant forms (Appendix 5). But in the 1870s, the design of shawls and scarves was greatly developed. floral motifs, where for the first time this decor began to be used so powerfully and diversely (Appendix 6).
Since the 19th century, drawings have been applied to shawl fabric with wooden carvings, using two types of boards for this: “manners” and “flowers”. "Flowers" were cut from wood, with their help paint was applied to the fabric, and each color required a separate board. The contour of the drawing was stuffed with "manners". Their manufacture was more laborious: at first, the pattern on the tree was burned to a certain depth, then filled with lead. The contour thus obtained was superimposed on separate boards (Appendix 7).
Since the 1970s, a significant part of the scarves have been stuffed in a different way - by screen printing. With this method, the paint is applied by printers to the fabric not with wooden forms, but with the help of special nylon or nylon mesh templates. Items printed by this method in that period are characterized by less detail in the pattern and more rigid contours of the ornament. Since the end of the 90s of the XX century. thanks to the experience gained at the shawl manufactory, shawls and scarves are produced with the number of colors up to 23, in their own way, by means of pattern printing. appearance and quality significantly superior to products previously printed using the heeling method using “flower” and “manners” (Appendix 8).
Thus. We see that Pavlovo Posad shawls, as we know them, did not immediately become and not simply from a roll of ordinary white woolen or silk fabric. Through the enormous efforts of many honored artists and craftsmen, these truly masterpieces of Russian folk crafts are born (Appendix 9).
They have no equal in the fineness of work, the originality of the pattern, the beauty of the finish, elasticity, strength and ability to keep warm and Orenburg downy shawls(Appendix 10). The Ural Cossacks, who exchanged silky fluff with the Kalmyks and Kazakhs, who knew lace and embroidery, began to use a floral ornament in knitting - living motifs of nature - honeycombs, cat's paws, fish, snowflakes. In 1861, knitter Maria Nikolaevna Uskova submitted a written request to the Governor of Orenburg to accept and send downy shawls to the World Exhibition in England. Six scarves with brief description that "products of this kind are produced handmade everywhere in the Orenburg Territory”, decorated the world exhibition, and before its closing, all scarves were sold out.
The first who drew attention to the special value of goat down and the need to breed a special breed of downy goats was Pyotr Ivanovich Rychkov (1712-1777), the first corresponding member of the Academy of Sciences, historian of the Orenburg region. He published his observations and the results of his experience in cleaning and processing fluff in 1765 in the Proceedings of the Free Economic Society. Raised by P. I. Rychkov, the question of the use of goat wool for the production of down products aroused great interest. In 1770, the "Free Economic Society" awarded the wife of P. I. Rychkov Elena Denisovna a gold medal for the excellent performance of down products.
Down knitting was especially widespread in the villages along the banks of the Ural and Sakmara rivers, mainly in the Orenburg and Orsk districts, where almost all women and girls were engaged in the manufacture of scarves. Similar to Orenburg, thin woolen shawls were traditionally knitted in Scotland: both there and here the quality criterion is that the shawl passes through the wedding ring.
II. Who and how wears scarves
It is generally accepted that only women wear headscarves. But actually it is not. Even the ancient Egyptians and nomads of the deserts of Arabia and North Africa had a very simple men's headdress - a large white cloth placed on their heads. Two of its corners hung freely on the chest, two corners - on the back, thus covering the upper body from the sun and sand of the deserts.
To prevent the scarf from falling, the head was wrapped with two rows of thick hair rope. If you carefully consider the ancient Egyptian Sphinx known to the whole world, you can see that it is covered with such a scarf.
This board was made, as a rule, from a light white fabric. The white color reflects the hot rays of the sun well, and thanks to this, the head does not bake. The civilization of Ancient Egypt has long since disappeared. But until now, in the Arab countries, which are located next to the Mediterranean Sea, they continue to wear this ancient headdress (Appendix 11).
But what about us in Rus'? Since time immemorial, Russian women have worn headscarves. It was tradition. Our ancestors believed that through uncovered loose hair, evil spirits could enter a woman, it was not without reason that witches were depicted with loose, uncombed hair. The biggest shame for a woman Ancient Rus' there was a forced public exposure of her head. We find confirmation of this in the stories of the wife of the daring merchant Kalashnikov Alena Dmitrievna:
How from his hands I rushed
And rushed home to run headlong,
And remained in the hands of the robber
My patterned handkerchief, your gift,
And my Bukhara veil,
He shamed me, he shamed me,
Me honest, immaculate -
And what will the evil neighbors say?
And to whom will I show myself now?
This ancient custom is associated with the appearance in the Russian language of the word “goof off”, which means to disgrace.
Women's headscarves ... What real stories could tell about those whose property they were, whose heads they covered. Hidden grievances, tears hidden from everyone, were known only by a handkerchief - in a secluded dark corner, a woman listed her sorrows in a whisper, covering her mouth with the corners of a handkerchief, she wiped her eyes covered with a tear-longing with the same corners. And when the holiday came and the peasant woman was going for a walk, she took out her best shawls from the cherished packing and for a long time, admiring, sorted them out. Then the woman felt like the owner of a cherished treasure, which consisted not only of objects valuable to her, but also of the memories associated with each of the scarves. This one, not yet washed once, was given to her as a dowry by her mother, and in the first years of her marriage she wore it with festive costume, the other - after the birth of her first child, her husband brought her and, embarrassed, clumsily put it in her hands, blushing to the roots of her hair. There were also kerchiefs in styling that were worn for haymaking, and others only for big holidays - these always had a particularly decorated corner falling on their backs - after all, it was he who was clearly visible when women stood in rows in church (Appendix 12).
The obligatory headdress of the Khanty and Mansi women was a headscarf. Particularly interesting is the method of wearing a scarf as a bedspread - with loose, untied ends (Appendix 3). In winter, they wore two or three scarves, putting one into the other. The manner in which Khanty women wear headscarves is closely related to the custom of avoidance. Married women put a headscarf over their faces, hiding from their husband's older relatives.
III. How to wear a headscarf in the modern world
Having become interested in the centuries-old history of the existence of a scarf and its use for utilitarian and aesthetic purposes, we decided to find out what significance a scarf has for people. modern society. Having compiled a questionnaire, we conducted a survey of people from the immediate environment. We interviewed 50 adults (teachers, parents) and 50 teenagers in grades 8-10. Moreover, of the respondents, 6 people were men, 12 people were boys, 44 were women and 38 were girls. The results of the survey (Appendix 14) showed that for most people the headscarf remains one of the wardrobe items. Scarves are used in different ways: women prefer scarves for both utilitarian and aesthetic purposes, while men are more rational and do not like to decorate themselves with scarves. But judging by the votes given for the photos, such a small addition to the image as a scarf can significantly affect the perception of a person in society.A scarf is an accent that draws the eye.
This wonderful accessory is a scarf, and today it is fashionable! It is also used as a scarf around the neck, sometimes tied like a pioneer tie, braided and draped beautifully tied on the head. There are many ways to tie scarves that will help girls be irresistible (Appendix 15).
Young people, mostly men, often use a scarf in the form of a bandana. A bandana is a headdress, an accessory in the form of a headscarf, a large scarf tied around the head, around the neck and other parts of the body. The most popular use of bandanas, kerchiefs: on the head, on the neck, on the arm.
Bandanas originally had a practical use - Spanish shepherds and later American cowboys used bandanas to keep out dust, bandanas were worn around the neck and could be quickly put on the face to protect the nose and mouth. And in other warm countries, bandanas were worn in hot weather as a headdress.
A bandana, scarf, scarf with the logo of the company allows you to express yourself in an original and bright way, becoming an integral part of sports events, tourist trips, promotions or being an integral part of the dress code of many companies and organizations (Appendix 16).Logo is original name organization or an image of its trademark. Therefore, neckerchiefs have long become an integral part of the advertising campaign of large organizations that order their production during a particular action. Neckerchiefs, decorative scarves for a suit pocket - all these and other types of scarves can become an integral part of corporate style. Business owners have to look for more and more new ways to advertise and promote their product and a neckerchief is the best fit for this. Due to the fact that their cost is low, and the appearance, due to its brightness, attracts close attention of potential customers, puts the name of the company in their memory.
And so, you can count a great many scarves. They cover the body, use them as a headdress or an element of clothing, wear them in pockets, which indicates the accuracy of a person. A neckerchief with a company logo is an elegant way to highlight a company representative in an office, in a crowded public place, at the exhibition, for presentation.
IV. How to make your own scarf
Patterns of the whole earth lay on the silks:
Heavens, fields and mountains blossomed.
Bright fiction and color and border
The fabric rivals summer and winter.
And plains of satin for show
The flame of maple and mountain ash beckons the eye.
If we spread a scarf on the fields,
The whole earth will become even more beautiful.
The manufacture of scarves, today, is a whole industry, which is armed with modern technologies.
Shawls, like scarves, usually have the simplest shape - rectangular or square, so complex sewing machines are not required for sewing scarves. The most complex technological process in the manufacture of scarves is the application of images and inscriptions on finished goods. Currently, manufacturers of clothing and souvenirs can offer the following types of drawing on fabric:
Embroidery or jacquard weaving, in which the image is made with threads;
Sublimation, thermal transfer and silk screen printing - printing a pattern on the surface of the fabric.
The most economical method is sublimation printing, which also allows you to apply a pattern to the entire surface of the scarf. When sewing scarves from thin fabrics, silk-screen printing is considered the most optimal, since in this case the structure of the product does not deteriorate, and the appearance remains flawless for a long time.
But how to make a scarf yourself? First, let's determine the purpose of the scarf and its size.
We will make two scarves. One - in the form of a scarf with the logo of our school children's organization "Third World", and the second is a delicate elegant neckerchief, to create a feminine, stylish look.
The sizes of the scarves will be 70 cm x 70 cm. Now we will develop sketches of scarves (Appendix 17).
Next step. It is necessary to decide on the manufacturing technique and material for scarves. We must not forget that when choosing the color of the scarf, you also need to pay attention to the color of the hair and skin, this is necessary in order to emphasize the natural beauty of its owner.
The first scarf with a logo is best made from satin fabric in two colors: blue and yellow. As my scarf, I will choose model number 2, since here all the elements will be better viewed when worn on the chest. I think the best technique for making this scarf is appliqué. And I will make the inscription “Third World” with the help of embroidery, with the simplest stalk seam.
I will try to make the second scarf using the knotted batik technique. This is the easiest, most interesting and unpredictable way. You don't have to know how to draw, paint will do it for you. You need to take the washed fabric, tie it with thread or rope. You can knit in knots, sew with a thread, tie various objects resistant to paint and temperature (for example, pebbles) into fabric.After "dressing" the fabric is well moistened, gently wring out. We apply random paint. It can turn out interesting if you sprinkle salt or urea on wet paint.
Now you need to dry the fabric in a knotted state. Dry conveniently in the oven. Heat up and turn off, and in the turned off oven place the batik on a tray or foil. It is important - until it dries - do not unfold. A slightly under-dried fabric can be unfolded and dried very quickly with a hairdryer.
And the scarf itself can serve as a material for the manufacture of fashionable and stylish clothes. And having several scarves of different sizes in your wardrobe, you can upgrade them into tops, skirts and even sundresses.
V. Conclusion.
Everyone wants to have beautiful, stylish things in their wardrobe. Scarves of different sizes, colors and purposes belong to a small group of things that are designed to complement the outfit and emphasize the created style. They are an essential part of the wardrobe of stylish fashion-conscious people.
Picking up scarves is not as easy as it seems, each person has his own personality, and a scarf can emphasize it.
Beautiful scarves can be attributed to original works of art. You can also make a scarf at home, at home.
How do you use the scarf?
Do you think that every person should have their own image?
Do you think that a tasteful detail such as a scarf can significantly improve the appearance of a person?
Would you like to learn the art
tie scarves in different ways?
Would you like to have a scarf in your wardrobe,
Model #1
Model #2 Model #3
Russian beauty in a Pavloposad shawlThe culture of this or that people is multicomponent. Cuisine, way of life, traditions and peculiarities in clothing - all this makes up a complete picture, making this or that nationality recognizable. It is the little things, nuances, features and individual details traditional costume show the image of the people to the whole world. Without exaggeration, Russian culture is considered one of the brightest and most diverse. The symbiosis of the industriousness of skilled artisans and the skill of artists gave rise to such a unique work of applied art as Pavlovo Posad shawls (shawls).
The history of the handkerchief
Today, every foreigner - a guest of the great and vast Russia, will consider it an honor to purchase unusual townsman scarves or shawls as a souvenir. But few people know that the history of such a unique and popular accessory all over the world goes back more than 200 years.
Pavloposadsky scarf can be found in many paintingsThe origins date back to the middle of the nineteenth century. The city in Rus' Pavlovsky Posad, formerly called the Bogorodsk district, has long been considered a kind of center of talented and skilled artisans, and especially textile craftsmanship. In those distant times, it was in Pavlovsky Posad that there were countless textile workshops that have survived from even more ancient times. In the 17th century, Bogorodsk shawls were already widely known, thanks to the recognizable ornamental pattern of gilded threads.
And how could such beauty not become popular
Later, production was rapidly gaining momentum, and already township scarves were made from various fabrics, and the character of the pattern acquired more characteristic national features and a recognizable Russian character.
Manufactory production expanded, the direction of silk weaving appeared, scarves were also made from woolen and semi-woolen fabrics.
The history of Pavloposad shawls
Traditional shawls had one feature - an unusual and unique printed pattern. The patterns were so exclusive that it was impossible to find two identical scarves.
Drawing technique
The magnificence of a color, a complex and one-of-a-kind floral pattern or ornament is achieved by a complex application technology. Initially, the pattern was transferred to the material using carved wooden molds. Such form boards were called "flowers" and "manners". The board "flowers" was cut out of wood, with its help paints were applied to the fabric, but the outline of the ornament or pattern was filled with boards "manners".
"Manner" for applying patterns
The evolution also touched on the technology of stuffing prints, so already in the 70s of the last century, the pattern began to be applied to town scarves and shawls using screen printing and special nylon templates. More modern Pavloposad textile products have changed somewhat: the pattern has become less detailed, and the contours of the ornaments have acquired less intricate and somewhat strict outlines.
Industrial production did not play in favor of the beauty of the scarf
For some time, the technique of manual printing was used to apply the pattern, but due to the special laboriousness of the process, it did not become popular. Although it was during this period that real exclusive models worthy of the title of cultural value of Russia were created.
In the 90s of the last century, at a time when many industries were hit by a crisis, production not only did not come to naught. Pavloposad products have become even more colorful and original. The number of colors for one scarf or shawl reached 23. Today, the stencil technology has been preserved, a unique pattern is preliminarily developed by artists, after which stencils are made, then shawls and scarves are put into production.
Developing a pattern for a future scarf is not an easy task.
Creation of Pavloposad shawls
Pattern Features
From ancient times to the present day, town scarves and shawls are divided into two main types:
- The first are scarves and shawls, which are made of thin translucent wool. Such Pavloposad products may have a silk base. The pattern on such a shawl or scarf was stuffed on a cream, black, dark cherry or scarlet color ground. The ornament was large flowers or bouquets, strictly selected stylistic patterns. As they say, the award has found its hero. In 1896, such town scarves received the highest state award, which gave the right to depict the National Emblem on a label or sign.
- The second are Pavloposad products, which were made of dense wool. Such models, as a rule, differed from the first ones not only in fabrics, but also in ornament. The title pattern was borrowed from the Eastern people "cucumber", enclosed in floral patterns. The emphasis in such shawls was placed on the edges, and more precisely, the corners of the shawl, leaving a small middle figure in the central part.
In the post-war period, township shawls acquired greater brightness than models of the war period. The color of the Pavlovo Posad shawl is based on the contrasts of yellow, green, red and blue. Chiaroscuro treatments appear in the drawing, which give realism and tangibility to floral prints.
Such a principle of bright and unusual contrasts, national ornaments or floral patterns is so unique in its kind that it makes townsman scarves and shawls out of fashion trends.
Such beauty never goes out of fashion.
How to wear a pavlovo-posad scarf or shawl?
Modern fashion trends are a tribute and even admiration for the skill of our ancestors. Therefore, Pavloposad stoles, shawls and scarves are incredibly popular among fashionistas today. Such a bright and unusual accessory undoubtedly has its own character, history and soul, which gives the image original folk notes in an unusual modern setting, like a precious diamond.
The image of a Russian beauty will not be complete without such a scarf
There are some tips on how to wear a Pavlovo Posad accessory:
- In the traditional way, as worn in Rus', putting on the head and tying under the chin. This method is suitable for beauties with clear and regular facial features.
It is very easy to tie a scarf in the traditional way.
- Putting on the head, and wrapping the ends of the scarf around the neck. Looks perfect with a fur coat or sheepskin coat. You need to be careful with the image, consisting of a fur coat to the floor and a Pavloposad shawl, so as not to take on the appearance of the noblewoman Morozova.
- You can put it on your head in the form of a bandana or a turban, and fasten the ends around your head. This way looks unusual and modern.
Pavloposadsky scarf in the form of a bandana
- Simply throwing it over your shoulders, arbitrarily tying the ends of the scarf so that others can admire the beauty of the pattern.
Original skirt from Pavloposad shawl
There are a lot of ways how and with what to put on town scarves, stoles and shawls. You can safely let go of your imagination and experiment with such an unusual accessory, creating your own bright and original image.
A skillful combination or shawls will help to give the look not only a folk identity. Pavloposad products are not just fashion accessories, they have a soul, transforming the image of a woman not only externally, but also internally. Such bright painted accessories will never go out of fashion, forming a real Russian style outside of fashion trends.
Interesting information about Pavloposad shawls
MKOU "Secondary school d.Burmistrovo"
Russian shawl crown
Project work
9th grade students
Ermolaeva Antonina
Head: teacher of fine arts
Icategory Sudakova V.V.
2015
Content
Introduction
I
Main part.
II .
Practical part.
III .
Economic justification of the project.
Cost calculation.
Economic evaluation of the project.
IV .
Environmental assessment of the project.
V .
Conclusion.
Bibliography.
Internet resources.
Terminological dictionary.
Annex 1
Application2
Appendix 3
Appendix 4
Appendix 5
Appendix 6
Introduction
Recently, the preservation of the traditional culture of the Russian people, which includes a large number of types of folk creative activity, has great potential in pedagogy. It includes spiritually formed over the centuries - moral values and the ideals of the people, expressed in relation to the family, nature, economy. In ancient times, Russian folk costume was one of the elements of folk education, because everything in folk culture brought up: traditions, holidays, folk philosophy, worldview, folklore, accuracy, cleanliness and beauty had a positive effect on the child.
Russian folk costume is a source of creativity, an indicator of artistic, aesthetic, ethical views and worldview, for many centuries the existence of Rus'-Russia, serves as proof creativity and opportunities of the Russian people. Its study has a deep ideological, moral, patriotic meaning, contributes to the development contemporary art, continuity of generations, transmission social experience subsequent generations.
In the technology classes, I got acquainted with such a kind of arts and crafts as patchwork.Working with fabric with your own hands gives pleasure and incomparable joy from the implementation of the most daring ideas.I had a desire to create a collection of plot dolls in the national Russian costume and more fully.consider an element of the costume - a scarf.
In my work, I want to talk about the role of the headscarf in traditional Russian culture andshow the ten most common types of tying a scarf, conveying the mood that corresponds to the spirit of a Russian woman.
Target:
Create a story puppetin national Russian costumewith the characteristic features of life andshow how to wear and how to tie scarvesin Russia.
Tasks:
To study the history of the emergence and distribution of the Russian headscarf.
Find out from what fabrics scarves were made in Rus' and how they were decorated.
Learn how to make doll models.
Show the traditional ways of tying scarves in Rus'.
To arouse interest in folk traditions.
Practical significance choosing an idea comes down to the fact that in the future I want to transfer my collection to the school ethnographic museum.
The history of the emergence and distribution of the Russian headscarf in Rus'.
custom to wearhandkerchiefRus' has a long history. Even in ancient times, a woman covered her head with a piece of cloth - a scarf, a scarf. At first it was worn over a headdress, and then they began to tie it directly on the hair.In the old days, the head was covered with towels, which were called ubrus. Information about ubrus towels has been preserved in written monuments since the 12th century. The custom of covering one's head with towels existed in some places in Russia as early as the 19th century.The traditions of the Russian headscarf are directly related to the Feast of the Intercession of the Mother of God, which exists only in the Russian Orthodox Church.In Rus', the image of a married beauty was unthinkable without a headdress. A scarf on her head meant a change in social status to a married one.Any changes in the life of a Russian woman were reflected in her headdress. During the ritual "Unleashing the mind" - the first haircut, the girl was presented with a skirt and a scarf. But wearing a headscarf was not obligatory for her until the girl reached the age of the bride. Then she still wore a wreath, a ribbon, a folded scarf, from under which a braid peeked out. The headdress has always been used in divination for the groom, for the Feast of the Intercession and for Christmas. The wedding ceremony usually lasted more than a week, and each stage of this important celebration in the life of each girl was accompanied by a ritual with a headdress. The main sign of the engagement was a scarf worn on the bride by her father in the presence of her friends and older women. The show to relatives, the bachelorette party and the bride's bath were held using this accessory. Throughout the day of the wedding, the bride changed her scarf several times. After the ceremony, the hairstyle also changed: one braid was intertwined into two. Scarves were given to new relatives. After the wedding, a woman could not appear in public and among households without a headdress, which consisted of several elements: a warrior - a light soft hat, under which braids, "magpies" and a scarf or shawl were hidden. "Magpie" is a cap made of canvas or calico. If you look at the back of the woman's head in this cap, then the headdress resembles a bird with bent wings. It was this bird that became the symbol of a married woman. The headdress was considered a solar, heavenly sign, as well as birds. Feathers and down were used as decoration for the "magpie". The shawls worn over had different colors. Young women wore predominantly colorful and red scarves, older women and widows wore black ones.
povoynik
Technologies for the manufacture and decoration of scarves.
The concept of "Russian shawl" is recognized in the world thanks to the work of talented artists and craftsmen in weaving and dyeing. Before the emergence of a monopoly industry, peasants,along with hand weaving in Rus' in the second halfXIXcentury, the production of scarves on machine tools took on a mass character, cheaper printed scarves began to be produced.They wove scarves at home on simple homemade looms. Decorated with patterns and woven stripes. INXIXIn the century, the decoration of fabrics in a printed way was already known, when, with the advent of cities, fabrics became a subject of trade. In order to speed up the process of drawing a pattern, a board with a carved pattern was covered with paint, placed on a cloth, and the image was imprinted with blows of a wooden hammer. In the 17th century, Nizhny Novgorod handicraftsmen were engaged in heeling for themselves and for sale. The industrial production of printed and patterned scarves in Russia began at the turn of the 18th-19th centuries. Peasant farms with dye-houses and hand-looms became the basis of the future textile industry. Gradually replacing manual labor, steam engines, calico-printing machines, machines (Appendix 1) for patterned weaving were introduced. The hand-made peasant heel already had to compete with factory calico printing.
The first manufactories for the manufacture of scarves.
The manufactory, which began the production of shawls in the style of Kashmir, arose in 1806 in the estate of the landowner N.A. Merlina in the village of Skorodumovka, Nizhny Novgorod province. In 1813, a manufacturing workshop was opened in the village of Khava, Voronezh Region, on the estate of the landowner V.A. Eliseeva. The famous "Kolokoltsevo" shawls were magnificent. They were called so because they were made in the village of Aleksandrovka, Saratov province, on the estate of General D. Kolokoltsev. Among woolen shawls, woven "carpet" shawls with oriental patterns can be called the first. The initiators of their production were the Moscow manufacturers Guchkovs in the 40s. XIX century. The weaving technique made it possible to make patterns one- and two-sided.
In Russia, they wore shawls, half-shawls, scarves and shawls, such a classification of scarves, and with variants of explanations, was common among residents of the Altai Territory: a shawl and a half-shawl must be with tassels, a half-shawl is smaller than a shawl, a scarf without tassels, can be either one-color or multi-color , liner - with a pattern in the corner.
Shawl
Traditional ways tying scarves in Rus'.
There were ten ways to tie a scarf that have existed in Rus' for several centuries, but are still found in our time and can be traced in modern ways of wearing this is a warrior, howler, (Appendix 2); sew, lump, wrinkle, (Appendix 3); covering of boards, fold, (Appendix 4); marmoset, bag (Appendix 5).
Tools and fixtures.
For work I need:
1 m of aluminum wire (doll frame).
Cotton fabric white and colored.
Multicolored ribbons.
Cotton threads.
Scissors.
Sewing machine.
Plywood (for stand).
PVA glue.
The technology of making a doll model.
Operation name
Photo
Tools, materials and fixtures
1
Create Sketch
Whatman paper, pencil, eraser.
2
Prepare the wire frame
Pliers.
3.
Formation of the head and body.
Sintepon, kapron fabric, thread.
4.
Sew a shirt.
White fabric.
5.
Sew a skirt.When cutting the costume, we take into account the requirements of the traditional cut of folk clothes
Colored fabric, ribbons for decoration.
6.
Tie a scarf.
Thin cloth.
7.
Prepare the base.
Jigsaw, chipboard, ruler, pencil.
8.
Attach the doll to the base.
Screwdriver.
Workplace organization and safety.
To work on a project, I have everything you need: a desktop, a sewing machine, an iron, an ironing board. Working with these products is not the same as the knowledge of work and safety precautions on a sewing machine and iron acquired in technology lessons. To work with fabric, I acquired a “patch” at a school circle.
Economic justification of the project
Cost calculation
Name
Quantity per 1 unit
Price (per 1 sq.m.), (pcs.) rub.
Total (rub.)
colored fabric
20x50cm.
fabric white
10x30cm.
1.70
braid
1m
hair thread
beads
20pcs
Total:
10.70
The cost of purchased materials was 200 rubles, and the cost of materials used was 170 rubles.The material costs do not include the purchase of scissors, glue, brushes, drawing paper, synthetic winterizer, as they were used and purchased earlier.I do not take into account the cost of electricity, since the work was carried out in the daytime.
Therefore, the cost of my project is 170 rubles.
Therefore, my project work economically beneficial, because, having spent 170 rubles on consumables, I received a collection of dolls that I like, and I hope everyone who watches it will like it (Appendix 6).
Chapter 4. Environmental assessment of the project
The technology of making dolls does not have a negative impact on others. In the manufacture of the product, environmentally friendly materials were used.
The execution technology does not have a negative impact on human health. Hence:
The atmosphere is not polluted;
Non-harmful materials for human health;
Virtually waste-free production.
Work on the project was not very difficult to complete, but it required the ability to sew on a typewriter, attentiveness and accuracy, knowledge of the history of Russian traditions and creative abilities. And most importantly, a good mood.
Conclusion.
Working on the project brought me satisfaction. I learned a lot about the appearance of the scarf in Rus', about its creation, about the traditions of wearing a scarf, and what great significance it had in the costume of a Russian woman.
I learned how to create models of dolls from improvised materials. In my works, I tried to convey a piece of history. Each way of a tied scarf carries the goodness and wisdom of our ancestors, from youth to old age.
And I think that such crafts, which will tell about the significance of each method of a tied scarf on the head of Russian women, will arouse interest not only among children, but also among adults.For students, such dolls will serve as a good object of labor, for a teacher - a visual aid in the study of traditional Russian costume.
Bibliography.
1. History of the culture of the Russian people. A.V. Tereshchenko. Moscow; EXMO, 2007
3.Internet resources.
https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/
http//www.glebushkin.ru Shawl in Russian traditions and modernity.
Terminological dictionary.
Ubrus - part of the headdress of a married woman - a towel richly decorated with embroidery. Wrapped around the head - a soft cap that covered the hair - and tied or stabbed with pins. Known in the XVII-XVIII centuries in European Russia and Siberia . Ubrus steel successor and a scarf.
Jacquard (Jacquard)- a large-patterned smooth fabric with a relief contour repeating pattern, similar in appearance to a tapestry. Its warp may contain more than 24 differently intertwined threads. The fabric is made by the so-called jacquard weaving on a special machine. The density of jacquard depends on the thickness of the thread.
French weaver Joseph Marie Jaccara (Joseph Marie Jacquard, 1752 - 1834). In 1808, he introduced the jacquard loom, which became one of the most advanced machines for the production of cloth. Complex drawing previously created manually, now began to be laid in the memory of the machine. The uniqueness of the mechanism consisted in the possibility of controlling the individual warps of the thread during the formation of a canopy for each direction of the thread.
Annex 1
Appendix 2
The headdress of married women consisted of a soft cap and a scarf. It was made from canvas, chintz, calico, silk and satin. The hat was always covered with a scarf - silk and cashmere on holidays, canvas, chintz, satin - on weekdays. Going out into the street in one hat, without a scarf, or being at home with a stranger was considered very indecent. Over time, the cap was replaced by a cotton scarf, folded diagonally and tied at the back of the head. Over time, the warrior managed to supplant all the old hats: kokoshniks, magpies, borchats, bastings. It was widely distributed in Siberia. In the last century, it has become the headdress of older women. Some grandmothers, and sometimes young women, especially in villages, still wear a warrior.
- a silk scarf of a brownish-yellowish color, striped or checked. He pounced on the bride's head, covering a significant part of her face, when she lamented, according to custom, during the "bachelorette party". Then the scarf was thrown on when the bride was waiting for the groom in front of the crown, when she went to the crown in a sleigh. In the traditional wedding costume, as a rule, a howler was used - another name is a diaper. It was believed that the howler protects a girl who is getting married from the evil eye and evil spirits at the very important point in life.
Appendix 3
-
silk scarf folded in the form of a wide ribbon. It was wrapped around the head in such a way that the top of the head remained open. It was a symbol of not marriage. The ends were tucked under the scarf from the sides, and sometimes they were straightened at the temples. The ends were tucked under the scarf from the sides, and sometimes they were straightened at the temples. Sometimes at the temples descended "twigs" - tassels of horsehair, or "guns" - from goose feathers, iridescent drake feathers.
