beauty industry. Education. Meet: new concepts in cosmetology
Lux is a behind-the-scenes industry that resembles a kind of closed club, where everyone receives all the benefits of civilization, advanced developments of cosmetologists and creations. But it is important to remember where the legs grow from – beauty or fashion spheres are quite young, they have recently emerged as a separate direction from the distribution business, so it’s quite possible to jump into this train of pleasures. So, what to do if you dream of such a job?
Education
In Russia, luxury education is just beginning to take shape. Of course, it makes sense to invest in it, but only in a few specialties: buyers, fashion communications, an interesting and very promising area - e-commerce. The industry loves status, so the high-profile names of universities will help you: Moscow State University and the Higher School of Economics. It would be nice if you studied in the language department, as the luxury industry is always good English as a matter of course, plus French and Italian as a nice addition to the headquarters you work with.
If you look more broadly and want to develop in retail, then an economic education will not be superfluous at all. This industry is now at a stage when everyone began to count, analyze and predict for several years to come. But international education is actually not needed. You can get it to expand your acquaintances and horizons, but objectively in Russia, when hiring, 1-2% of future employers will look at this.
background
Very often I hear the exclamations of colleagues: “It’s impossible to get into the suite if you are not originally in the industry.” I will answer confidently: "It is possible." Yes, there are few such examples, but they exist. If you have everything listed in the previous two paragraphs and a passionate desire to work in a particular company, you will definitely succeed. Somehow, a girl who used to deal with household appliances came to an interview with me. She clearly stated: "I'm not looking for a job, I only dream of two companies in the beauty industry, I know everything about them, I love the product, I'm ready to work 24 hours a day." A month later, the girl had an offer in her arms, and now she is the marketing director of one of the leading beauty brands in Russia. In addition, think for yourself, somehow the mastodons, which are usually admired today, also got into this industry.
A godsend for the luxury industry – retail candidates who know all the regions, have gone through all the business trips, who can work in the mass market segment and withstand the insane pace of store openings. Such candidates have colossal knowledge of the market, while they are happy to work with the team on the service, the right emotions of the consumer and CRM. If you recognize yourself in this description, immediately send your resume to us!
Job search
"Luxury" vacancies are almost never published in open sources. I recommend using Linkedin to connect with the employer, but it is better to contact the agency, the consultants who specialize in this industry. Usually this is a person who has been on the market for a long time, he will orient you and tell you what you can qualify for. Or write directly to the HR department of your dream company. Use every opportunity up to subscribing to the editor-in-chief on Facebook, suddenly he will talk about the search for a fashion editor on a social network. This is your chance.
Interview
Naturally, the dress code is very important here. Please don't make the mistakes of all newcomers: if you go to an interview at a fashion house, this does not mean that you have to carry their most famous bag in your hands, smell only their fragrances and enter the holy of holies only in their shoes. Moreover, this can be regarded as bad taste and sycophancy. I always . Not a suit, you don't plan to be a bank clerk, do you? But it is better to be restrained in colors and texture. Ideal - a dress, a small heel or ballet flats. Neutral bag, scarf, watch and, importantly, discreet makeup. In my practice, there was a case when . We must pay tribute to the summer season ... But every time, discussing her profile, the hr manager ended with the phrase: “And lilac shadows ... This is so not about us!” Such simple must-haves as a well-groomed head and nice manicure I don't think it's even worth mentioning.
The interview itself usually follows the standard “tell us about yourself” format. But don't be surprised, in the luxury industry, no one will smile at you, greet you with enthusiasm and groan with delight at the mention of your achievements. You have to literally prove that you are worth these walls. You will most likely be sitting in front of a very professional " The Snow Queen without a drop of emotion. They give you time, sell yourself - you have forty minutes. This is not pathos and not entourage, these are the rules of the game and the passage of the first stage of the interview: you are required to withstand stress and self-confidence.
Of course, depending on the position, a number of professional questions await you, but these are details. Almost always, because these are also the rules of the game. In a suite, it is important how and where you live, where you spend your free time. Be careful about mentioning hobbies, don't say "socially desirable" answers, trust me, there is a very competent person sitting in front of you. In my practice, there was a case when a candidate said that he loves jazz very much, but at the same time he could not answer a question about specific performers. Naturally, such a hitch was regarded ambiguously. He was not turned down, but he went through a few more additional interviews and honestly admitted that he just wanted to impress.
Love
Of course, in order to work in this field, you must truly love it. You need to keep a close eye on fashion: monthly glossy magazines should become your desktop reading, and not because you have to, but because you sincerely cannot live without the trends of the season, special shootings of That Same Photographer and studying gossip columns. After all, fashion is largely a lifestyle, and maybe a hobby, whatever. You must truly admire her. I remember the scene from The Devil Wears Prada with a blue sweater: you can’t get into such a situation. We are not in a Hollywood movie.
Do you know all the words from our list of beauty terms? Check yourself!
BB cream
BB cream (blemish balm - “balm for shortcomings”) is a universal remedy that performs several functions at once. First of all, it masks skin imperfections and even fine wrinkles, but at the same time moisturizes and protects from the sun. Interestingly, initially, BB cream-like products were used exclusively as therapeutic formulations for people who underwent plastic surgery. The texture of BB-cream is denser than that of CC-cream, but there is a little less pigment in it than, for example, in foundation.
CC cream
CC creams are a special type of foundation that contains a minimum of pigment. The abbreviation CC itself means color correction, that is, “color correction”. CC-cream is able to cope with two tasks at once: perfectly moisturize the skin and mask minor imperfections, bumps, redness.
buff
Buff is a special soft file for polishing nails, which is usually used at the end of a manicure to add shine to the plate and remove bumps.
Gel Booster
Gel booster is a product primarily for fine hair that provides volume. Unlike lacquer, the booster does not stick the hair together, it helps the hairstyle to remain “movable”, but at the same time it does not have a strong fixation. The booster is applied to clean, slightly damp hair, it is also suitable for creating basal volume.
glitter
Glitter (aka shimmer) - to put it simply and in Russian - these are sparkles. Do not confuse glitter with highlighter - it cannot brighten certain areas, but simply gives the face a shine that is not always natural.
Duofiber
Duofiber is an all-purpose makeup brush. It consists half of natural hair, half of synthetic, due to this it does not absorb too much foundation, beautifully and evenly blends blush, highlighter, applies powder in a thin layer, etc. In a word, a very handy tool!
Kayal
Kayal is called not only the mucous part of the eye on the lower eyelid, but also a special soft pencil with which it is brought down. A kayal pencil can be of any color - black, white, brown, gray ... It is distinguished from an ordinary pencil by softness and antiseptics in the composition.
Curler
A curler is a special eyelash curler that is used before applying mascara.
contouring
Contouring (aka contour makeup) is a type of make-up when facial features are modeled with the help of concealers, tonal products and highlighter. The nose can be made thinner, the cheekbones sharper, the chin smaller ... Contouring is a favorite technique of Kim Kardashian and other stars.
concealer
Concealer (aka corrector) is a foundation that contains the maximum amount of coloring pigment. Due to its dense texture, it can hide pimples, bruises under the eyes, redness. In a word, the concealer copes with the fact that ordinary creams cannot do it. It is usually sold as a stick or in small tubes.
meteorites
Meteorites are a blush or powder in the form of balls, the most popular and cult ones are produced by the Guerlain brand. Meteorites usually do not give a pronounced tint, giving the skin only a slight glow.
Multimask
Multimasks are new trend cosmetology, when different products are applied to different parts of the skin. For example, for the T-zone, where the skin is more often oily, a drying mask is used, and for the cheeks, a nourishing one.
Patches
Patches are face masks or just stickers under the eyes from swelling that stick to the skin.
plumper
Plumper is a lip volumizer that looks like a regular gloss, but contains irritating ingredients that cause swelling (for example, red pepper or ginger). After application, the plumper causes a slight tingling or burning sensation, and a slight swelling of the lips appears.
primer
Makeup base (aka primer) is needed in order to protect the skin and help cosmetics last longer. The primer evens out the skin, even helps hide enlarged pores, prolongs the durability of makeup for several hours. The primer is most often in the form of a cream or gel.
Remover
Any makeup remover is called a remover - these are all foams, gels, milk, two-phase lotions, etc., which cleanse the skin of cosmetics. Remover can be for the whole face, or just for the eyes.
And in general, Korean principles of skin care do not lose popularity and continue to set trends, j-beauty - Japanese beauty - begins to seriously compete. As you know, the Korean beauty ritual is based on a multi-step facial (reaching up to 10 steps) and promotes unusual textures in both care and makeup. To understand the basics of j-beauty and how it differs from k-beauty, we spoke with experts from leading Japanese brands.
From birth, the Japanese absorb the love of the beauty of nature and develop the ability to capture all the beauty in it. "Ingredients - vegetable, innovative and safe, tested on the basis of the theory of Intuition of the skin (The theory of scientists Cle de Peau is based on the assumption that the skin has the ability to think, that is, each individual cell of the epidermis processes information. - Approx. Editorial) so that the skin perceives them absolutely naturally. The textures are luxurious and sensual, the presence of aromacology is a must, says Ilona Nikiforova, director of training at Cle de Peau Beaute. - Canons of beauty - radiant natural skin, beautiful, protected and healthy, even, without visible flaws. The Japanese approach comes down not only to effective and beneficial actions for the skin, but also to the fact that each product should cause only exquisite sensations. In Japan, they are absolutely sure that the spirit and the body are a single whole, therefore the mood is very important, and the state of mind during skin care is the main component of the effectiveness of care.
"Ideal porcelain skin Japanese women and an even complexion are not a gift of nature, but the result of a multi-stage facial care, which all the girls of the Land of the Rising Sun unquestioningly adhere to. The Japanese have long put the ancient beauty ritual on a scientific footing - modern technologies firmly rooted in the production of cosmetics, - explains Anastasia Mochalina, an expert on Japan, a representative of Japonica. -The average Japanese woman uses at least five to six products every day. The whole philosophy of facial care is based on a double action: cosmetics take care of the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin), and you strengthen the dermis (inner layer) with the help of massage. It is pointless to take care of the epidermis without taking care of the dermis at the same time.”
Beauty Rituals and Japanese Aesthetic Principles
The basis of the Japanese aesthetics of wabi-sabi, which includes the concepts of kanso and seijaku, as well as shibui, is unobtrusive beauty, and the entire beauty industry of the country is tuned to this philosophy. “In Japan, beauty ritual is a whole culture. It consists of two stages of cleansing, two stages of moisturizing and a double application technique - with my own hands we warm the skin, apply in a circular motion all means, due to this, microcirculation improves. The products are quickly absorbed, because there are layers in the Asian care, which creates a protective film on the skin, - says Elena Polyakova, the leading training manager of the Sensai and Kanebo brands of the Kanebo Cosmetics Rus company.
“Kanso means “simplicity” in Japanese. This principle is based on getting rid of excesses. Kanso also expresses a feeling of freshness, cleanliness and neatness. This is very close even to modern Japanese women. Their everyday makeup- this is an even tone, a blush and slightly made-up eyelashes. The literal translation of the word shibui is "tart, astringent", in some cases "refined" or "thin". Shibui can be found in almost everything, such as the tart taste of green tea or the scent of good perfume. Sometimes women apply this term to a man in whom there is a special rough masculine beauty, explains Anastasia Mochalina. - As for the principle of seijaku, it means calmness or inner silence. It can be found both in nature and in the character of man, but the principle itself was originally born through the tea ceremony. The Japanese themselves do not associate all these words with the beauty industry, it is rather an internal understanding accessible only to them. But now there is a Western rethinking of terminology due to increased interest in Japanese culture, and native Japanese concepts are gradually acquiring a new meaning.
Differences in textures and number of stages
Since the Japanese beauty ritual involves several successive stages, the textures of all products should be light so as not to interfere with the penetration of other components into the skin. They should be well absorbed and not leave behind a sticky layer. “Water textures are popular in skin care, for example, lotions are used much more often than essences and creams. Creamy textures are more popular in Korea than in Japan. This is due to the cold climate in Korea. Korean women pay much more attention to cleansing the skin of impurities. There is also a difference in aesthetics: in Korea they like to pay attention to the basics and lip makeup, and in Japan - eye makeup. In Korea, it is immediately noticeable that women tend to follow as many trends as possible. Natural, but flawless makeup is also welcome there. That is why MLBB and MSBB (“My lips, but better” and “My skin, but better”) are popular in Korea - nude, enhancing the natural color and transforming. In Japan, natural makeup based on individual beauty principles is at the forefront,” says Kakuyasu Uchiide, International Creative Director of Shu Uemura.
“Korean women are very fond of sponges (konnyaku), and Japanese women whip cleansers with a brush. Also, Japanese women are very fond of different devices for facial massage. But the beauty ritual of Japanese women is more of a philosophy than a practice for Korean women,” says Ilona Nikiforova.
The global difference between Korean and Japanese beauty rituals is that in Japan there are fewer of them, and the textures are lighter. “For example, in Korean care there is a separate stage - treatment, which involves the use of products that act to get rid of acne and blackheads. In the Japanese care system, this process is included in the cleansing step. Toner is responsible for normalizing pH in Korea, lotion in Japan, says a representative of Japonica. - One of the main criteria for choosing cosmetics for Japanese women is the presence of the SPF factor in the composition. Japanese women prefer to use them all year round to maintain their porcelain skin tone. Korean women are also big fans of even skin tone, but due to their denser and oily skin this is hard to achieve. Therefore, even under makeup, they apply anti-acne products.
Main Components
The Japanese trust natural ingredients. “Harmony with nature is a fundamental value. Since ancient times, the Japanese have been using ingredients derived from natural sources. In the beauty industry, the most popular ingredients are isolated from tea, peony, Japanese camellia, and more recently from rice, tofu or sake,” says Kakuyasu Uchiide.
One of the unusual ingredients is horse oil. “It has been a popular ingredient in nourishing creams for centuries. Horse oil lipids are close to human skin lipids, so the cream will be easily absorbed by the skin, moisturize and nourish it. When it comes to hair care, preference is given to natural oils, for example, camellias,” adds Anastasia Mochalina.
“The Japanese see the skin not as a passive target for cosmetics, but as an active participant in the recovery process, so traditional Japanese skin care does not contain ingredients to mask the signs of aging, such as silicones to instantly fill wrinkles and smooth the skin. The most popular is the combination of natural ingredients with high technologies, the action of which is aimed at awakening the skin's own resources, normalizing metabolism (metabolic processes) in skin cells, protecting the skin from external influences, ”says the expert of the brand EviDenS de Beaute.
Why is this the trend of 2018
If we talk about the market in a global sense, then in the last five years it has become so dynamic that one movement replaces another almost once a year. Social networks and the Internet have completely changed the pattern of consumption. “Today, every product can be reviewed, and the consumer has become so sophisticated that he needs huge selection, and he is already ready to move away from the usual cosmetic brands and try something from new trends, be it k-beaurty, j-beauty or small indie brands. And most importantly, the “seekers” segment is gaining strength, which used to be characteristic of a rather young audience, and today it is expanding every year,” Ilona Nikiforova believes.
According to British research firm Euromonitor, Japan has the highest per capita spending on skincare and cosmetics. The Japanese philosophy of beauty itself has a thousand-year history rich in cosmetic innovations. Take oil refining, which is a relatively new concept in the US and has been around in Japan for 50 years.
“Japan's economic problems in the past have forced Korea to lose the lead in the beauty industry. The key factor in the popularity of j-beauty is the fact that the consumer began to understand in more detail what he uses on a daily basis and interest in the quality of the compositions began to come to the fore, and bright and unusual packaging lost its value, ”says an expert on Japan and Japonica representative.
“With the recovery of the economy, and also in the run-up to the Tokyo Summer Olympics in 2020, Japan may once again become the world's beauty center,” said Kakuyasu Uchiide.
“The Japanese invest very honestly in their products, especially brands that have a certain authority in the market. The j-beauty trend is gaining popularity, despite the complexity and multi-stage care. In fact, it only seems that it is long and difficult, but you get used to it and the whole ritual takes only five minutes in the morning and 10 minutes in the evening. And the result, which we get the very next day, exceeds all expectations,” Elena Polyakova assures.
"Japan is not chasing fashion trends but sets its own rules. Therefore, it is very natural that j-beauty has become a big trend in 2018. Women are tired of extended eyelashes and hair, enlarged lips, stenciled eyebrows. Finally, most women have realized that the excessive use of injections does not make them younger, but destroys the harmony of facial features, but harmony is beauty, ”expert EviDenS de Beaute adds.
A well-groomed well-groomed face, a toned, slender figure, healthy hair, the absence of extra pounds, as well as perfectly fitting clothes are integral attributes of the image of a business woman. is aimed at the needs of businesswomen who want to look great and not spend a lot of time on personal care.
Beauty and business in modern society closely intertwined, appearance women, by her hair, the degree of grooming can be judged on the success of her business. However, in a series of working days it is very difficult to allocate time for regular trips to a beautician or fitness trainer.
Well-developed network of institutes, where modern special procedures are presented on the devices of the latest developments in the field of the beauty industry.
This is such a procedure Coolscalping, which allows you to get rid of 5-10 centimeters in the waist, abdomen, hips. The procedure is also very effective. thermage during which the frame of the skin of the face and neck is created. This will form the perfect oval of the face, the results of this procedure are stored for the next five years. 
Both of these procedures can be done even at lunchtime. Rehabilitation in this case is not necessary, since the processes and weight loss are activated inside the skin due to the natural capabilities of the body inherent in nature.
With great attention to the condition of the hands and nails. The modern, sometimes unique design of manicure and pedicure http://shortnaildesigns.net/ can compete with works of fine art, and is deservedly demanded by women of any age.
Here is what awaits the beauty industry in the near future:
- The emergence of an increasing number of professional products and procedures that require basic qualification of a specialist. Roughly speaking, even a complete idiot and even with malicious intent will not be able to harm the client. As a matter of fact, in Ukraine. Of course, technologies will appear gradually, fragmentarily, not in all directions and not to solve all problems. But they will definitely. And this, by the way, opens up new opportunities both for the development of beauty enterprises and for a clearer positioning of specialists who have unique knowledge and skills.
- Highly specialized salons will continue to develop, their number will increase. This can only be hindered by low profitability in individual segments and a slowdown in the development of networks due to an overabundance of homeworkers who: a) do not just dump, but work for a penny, ruining themselves and their customers; b) due to their inferior qualifications, homeworkers produce a huge number of clients with a distorted appearance who walk the streets and scare other people, reducing the demand for professional beauty services in general. The talk that clients want to get all services in one place due to lack of time and therefore narrow specialization “will not work” will remain talk for two reasons. The first reason: no matter how much the client wants, he can't do it in 2 hours manicure, pedicure, haircut, makeup, coloring, styling, eyelash extensions and massage. He will still have to come to the salon several times. The question is: what's the difference, what? In the one where "everything" is, but it's not clear how, or in the one where there is specialization, but with a guarantee? The second reason: the "all inclusive" beauty salon cannot provide the same high quality for each 498 services in the price list in 5-7 completely different directions.
- Will all inclusive salons remain? Of course they will.
- Every year, an increasing number of owners of beauty salons and cosmetology centers will build work on the principle: first technology for the provision of services and maintenance, then - the selection of specialists for it. High-class masters / doctors opening their salons / clinics will work in the same way. They will create technologies, train specialists to work on them and control their implementation. This is what will become the basis for the stable quality of professional salon services, and not "the star master whom everyone goes to." "Star masters", of course, will still be in demand. BUT, they will be subject to completely different requirements. Namely, to be able to transform their knowledge and skills into those same technologies.
- And in Ukraine, beauty salons and clinics will start develop your brands. And it's not just a name and logo. This is when customers go not to "megasuperduperfamous masters A, B, C”and not to a “mega-famous cosmetic brand”, but to a brand of a beauty salon / clinic with all the ensuing processes and results. And for distributors, this means a change in the model of working with customers. Now salons will expect something completely different from you.
- Professional salon service will finally become a professional salon service. Not everywhere, but in many salons they will leave the ideology of huckstering: “I do the procedure in the salon on brand X, but% for home care unfairly small, so I will not recommend it”; from the ideology “I am not a seller”: “I am doing a service, but I don’t want to recommend home care - I am not a seller.” Solving the problem of “online stores”, drains, “I don’t want to sell”, “they pay little for the sale”, “I’m afraid that the client will spend all the money on home care and will no longer come for the procedure” (by the way, in our realities, it’s quite a reasonable fear ), it turns out, will come if you think about WHY the client actually comes to the beauty salon / clinic and WHAT we sell him.
- Networks. Just like other service industries, the beauty industry will see more and more business models designed from the ground up as chain stores or clinics. There will be companies opening salons and chains in different segments with different business models. In other words, the professional beauty industry will catch up with more developed industries, become more attractive to investors, more technologically advanced and more predictable.