The raw material for the production of artificial silk is. Artificial silk: description and composition of synthetic fabric. simple ways to make sure the material is natural

The first silk fabrics were very rare and expensive, so only rulers and their family members wore them. In all likelihood, inside the palace they dressed in white clothes, and at ceremonial exits - in. With the expansion of production, silk gradually became available to the court, and then to the wider population.

Gradually, a real cult of silk was born in China. Old Chinese texts mention sacrifices to the god of the silkworm, as well as sacred mulberry groves and the veneration of individual mulberry trees.

Already in the era of the Warring States (475-221 BC), silk and silk products were widespread in China in almost all segments of the population. Mencius (372-289 BC), the “Second Wise One,” suggested planting mulberry trees around the perimeter of “well fields” so that old and young would walk in silk robes.

Silk was widely used in the economy. In addition to being used as fabric for clothing and embroidery, strings for musical instruments, strings for bows, fishing lines and even paper were made from it. During the reign of the Han Dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD), silk became a kind of universal monetary equivalent: peasants paid taxes in grain and silk, state officials also paid in silk.

The value of silk was calculated based on its length and was equated to gold. Silk became, in fact, the currency used in settlements with other countries. The important role of silk in Chinese culture is also evidenced by the fact that out of the 5,000 most commonly used, about 230 have the “silk” key.

The technologies of sericulture, embroidery, dyeing of fabrics were rapidly improved. This continued until the Tang Dynasty (618-907).

The volume and quality of silk products gradually increased. The brightness of the colors, the richness and perfection of the embroidery were amazing. From the 2nd century BC. foreign trade was established - the famous Silk Road. A key role in this process was played by Zhang Qian 张骞 (?-114 BC), a Chinese diplomat and traveler who opened the countries of Central Asia to China and Chinese trade. Along the caravan routes, some of which existed before, caravans loaded with Chinese goods went to the West.

However, a number of historical and archaeological facts indicate that in other countries they learned about Chinese silk much earlier. So, in one of the Egyptian villages near Thebes and in the Valley of the Kings, female mummies were found wrapped in silk fabrics dating back to the 11th century. BC. This is probably the earliest find.

After the reign of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), special weaving workshops were founded, initially producing ceremonial headdresses, and later multi-colored silk fabrics. Fabrics were dyed vegetable dyes: flowers, leaves, bark, plant roots. The main weaving centers were located in the modern provinces of Henan, Hebei, Shandong and Sichuan. The Tang era is a time of intensive trade in silk, it was found on the territory of modern Xinjiang, Turfan, Tajikistan and even in the North Caucasus.

The Greeks and Romans called China the "Land of Silk" - Serika. Among the nobility, silk was very popular. It was extremely expensive, but, nevertheless, it was readily bought. The price could reach up to 300 denarii - the salary of a Roman legionnaire for a whole year! Silk imports began to threaten the very economy of the Roman Empire. In 380, the Roman historian Ammianus Marcellinus (c. 330-after 395) wrote that "the use of silk, which was once restricted to the nobility, has now spread to all classes without distinction, even to the lowest".

The barbarians were also captivated by this amazing material. The Goth Alaric, who captured Rome in 409, demanded, among other things, 4,000 silk tunics.

However, the secret of silk making remained unsolved for a long time. Many fantastic explanations have been offered. So, Virgil (1st century BC), for example, believed that silk was made from a pile of leaves. The Greek historian Dionysius (1st century BC) believed that silk was made from flowers. It has been suggested that the shiny silk threads grow on trees, or that it was created by huge beetles, or that it is made from the down of birds. Roman historian of the 4th century. Ammianus Marcellinus provided this explanation: “Silk fabrics are made from soil. Chinese soil is soft as wool. After watering and special treatment, it can be used to form silk threads..

The Chinese zealously guarded the secret of silk making. Anyone who tried to transfer eggs, larvae, silkworm cocoons abroad was executed. However, in Korea, and then in Japan, they learned the secret of silk production. It is believed that in Korea around the II century. BC. it was brought by the Chinese themselves, who emigrated there. Silk appeared on the Japanese islands in the III AD. Then, in the 4th century, silk production was established in India.

There are several legends about how silk technology became known in other countries. According to one of them, the Chinese princess was engaged to the prince of Khotan. Her fiancé wished his bride to bring mulberry seeds and silkworm larvae with her. According to another version, the princess herself wanted to bring them to her new homeland. She hid the seeds and larvae in her puffy hair and took them outside of China. It happened around 440. And from there, the secret of silk production has spread throughout the world.

According to another semi-legend, semi-history, the secret was divulged by two Nestorian monks. Around 550, they secretly brought silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds to the Byzantine emperor Justinian I (483-565) in their hollow bamboo staffs.

Thus, Byzantium became the first country to enter the Western world, where its own sericulture appeared. Church and state created their own silk workshops, monopolizing production and zealously guarding the secret of its manufacture. In the 6th century, the Persians mastered the art of silk weaving and created their own masterpieces.

Catholic prelates wore rich silk robes and altars were decorated with them. Gradually, the fashion for silk spread among the nobility. In the VIII-IX centuries, silk began to be produced in Spain, and four centuries later, silk was successfully produced by the cities of the Apennine Peninsula, several cities of which gave their names to fabrics. It is believed that Italian silk originates from two thousand skilled craftswomen who were taken to Italy from Constantinople in the 13th century.

Today, silk is produced in many countries of the world: in China, Italy, India, Spain, France. But China is still the world's largest exporter of raw silk and silk products.

Silk production technology

For centuries, silk remained for most countries of the world a luxurious commodity, for which the last money was given. Silk production is a very long and painstaking process that requires constant attention. Currently, a number of procedures are automated.

Over the centuries, sericulture has developed and improved, turning into an exact science. But even now, silk technology is based on old methods.

Silk is obtained from silk moth cocoons. There are many varieties of wild silk moth. But only one of them became the progenitor of the famous bombyx mori- a blind, wingless moth, from which the best silk is obtained. It is believed that it originated from Bombyx mandarina mori- a wild silk moth that lives on white mulberry trees only in China. In the process of selection, she has lost her ability to fly and can only eat, mate, produce offspring and produce silk fibers.

In addition, there is another type of moth in nature - Antheraea mylitta, also producing silk fiber, but coarser. The threads obtained from it are called Tussa.

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Female bombyx mori, hatching from a cocoon, mates with a male. After that, within 4-6 days, she lays up to 500 or more eggs, and soon after that she dies. Only healthy eggs are selected for further use. They are sorted and tested for infection. Sick eggs are burned. Silkworm eggs are very small and light - the weight of a hundred hardly reaches 1 gram. They are kept at a temperature of about 18 degrees Celsius, gradually increasing it to 25 degrees Celsius.

Approximately on the seventh day, small worms hatch, the size of which does not exceed 2 mm. It is this larval stage of the moth that is called, in fact, the silkworm. Further, throughout the month, silkworms constantly eat, increasing their weight and size. So, at the age of 4-5 weeks, their length reaches 3 cm or more, and the weight during this time increases thousands of times!

They feed exclusively on mulberry leaves, which are collected and selected for them by hand, and then crushed. Feeding occurs regularly, day and night. At this time, thousands of feeding worms are kept in special trays, which are placed one on top of the other.

In the room where the worms are kept, a constant temperature and humidity are maintained. They must be protected from any fluctuations in the external environment, such as: loud sounds, drafts, strong food odors and even sweat. From the thousands of jaws grinding the mulberry leaves, there is a constant hum, reminiscent of the sound of heavy rain drumming on the roof. During this time, the worms molt several times, gradually changing their color from gray to pale pink.

Finally, it's time to spin the cocoon. The silkworm starts to get excited, shaking his head back and forth. Caterpillars are placed in separate compartments. With the help of two special glands - spinnerets - the worms begin to produce a gelatinous substance that hardens upon contact with air. The substance that silkworms produce includes two main components. The first is fibroin, an insoluble protein fiber that makes up 75-90% of production. The second is sericin, a sticky substance designed to hold cocoon fibers together. In addition to them, there are also fats, salts, wax.

For three or four days, silkworms spin a cocoon around themselves, placing themselves inside it. They become like white fluffy elongated balls. At this time, cocoons are sorted by color, size, shape, etc.

Then another 8-9 days pass, and the cocoons are ready for untwisting. If you miss the time, then the chrysalis will turn into a moth and break through the cocoon, damaging the integrity of the thread. Therefore, the chrysalis must first be killed. To do this, it is subjected to heat, after which the cocoon is lowered into hot water to dissolve the sticky substance sericin that holds the threads together. At this point, only a small part of it, about 1%, is removed, but this is enough to allow the thread to be unwound.

After that, they find the end of the thread, pass it through the porcelain eye and carefully begin to unwind, winding it on the bobbin. Each cocoon produces a thread with a length of, on average, from 600 to 900 meters, and individual individuals - up to 1000 meters or more!

Then 5-8 threads are twisted together to get one thread out of them. When one of the threads ends, a new one is twisted to it, and thus a very long thread is formed. Sericin promotes the adhesion of one strand to another. The resulting product is raw silk, wound into skeins of yarn. This process is currently automated.

Skeins of raw silk yarn are sorted by color, size and other characteristics. Then the silk threads are twisted again to achieve a uniform structure and density. At this stage, you can twist different yarns to get different textures of the fabric. Next, the threads are passed through special rollers. After that, the yarn goes to the weaving factory.

Here the yarn is again soaked in warm soapy water. Refining takes place, as a result of which the weight of the yarn is reduced by approximately 25%. After that, the yarn becomes creamy white and can be further dyed and subjected to additional processing processes. Only after that you can start making fabric.

Silk fibers that have not been spun into threads, such as those from broken cocoons, broken ends, etc., can also be spun into threads, such as those obtained from cotton or linen. The quality of this silk is lower, it tends to be weak and fuzzy. It can be used, for example, to make a silk blanket.

An interesting statistic: silk for a men's tie requires, on average, 111 cocoons, and silk for tailoring women's blouse - 630!

Despite the fact that many artificial fibers have now appeared - polyester, nylon, etc., none of them can compare in quality with real silk. Silk fabrics warm in cool weather and cool in hot weather, they are pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye. In addition, silk thread is more durable than steel thread of the same diameter!

In conclusion, a short poem about the difficulties of breeding silkworms:

养蚕词
Yang can cí
Songs about silkworm feeding

作者：缪嗣寅
Zuòzhě: Miào Sìyín

蚕初生，
Can chū sheng
[When] the silkworm is born,

采桑陌上提筐行；
Cǎi sāng mò shàng tí kuāng xíng
I collect mulberry leaves, I walk along the border with a basket;

蚕欲老，
Can yù lǎo
[When] the silkworm caterpillar is about to mature,

夜半不眠常起早。
Yèbàn bù mián cháng qǐ zǎo
I can't sleep late at night and often get up early.

衣不暇浣发不簪，
Yī bù xiá huàn fà bù zān
I don't have time to wash my clothes and I don't style my hair,

还恐天阴坏我蚕。
Hái kǒng tiān yīn huài wǒ cán
I'm also afraid that rainy weather will spoil my silkworms.

回头吩咐小儿女，
Huítóu fēnfù xiǎo nǚ'er
Looking back, I teach my little daughter,

蚕欲上山莫言语。
Cán yù shàng shān mò yányŭ
[When] the silkworm caterpillars are about to rise [to highlight the silk], don't you dare talk!

The history of silk dates back thousands of years, and its qualities have always been valued very dearly. Repeated attempts to create an alternative to this unique natural fiber were crowned with success only at the beginning of the last century. Artificial silk created by chemists, like its natural prototype, contained modified cellulose. Although such a fiber, obtained as a result of chemical reactions, was inferior in its properties to silkworm thread, it became widespread due to its low cost and good performance properties.

At present, such a fabric as artificial silk has several varieties, and its own trade designation for each of them. All of them are made from cellulose, and differ, first of all, in manufacturing technologies, according to which they distinguish:

viscose;
acetate (triacetate) silk;
copper-ammonia fibers.

The names of materials can also be given in accordance with the type of raw material from which they were made (bamboo fabric, etc.). In addition, recently there has been such a thing as synthetic silk, which is called thin and soft textiles based on polyester and polyamide. Strictly speaking, this name contradicts the existing rules, since the production of artificial fibers does not include synthesis reactions. Therefore, when buying a product, in the description of which there is “synthetic silk”, you need to be aware that a conscientious manufacturer is unlikely to use it.

The first silk material of artificial origin was obtained in 1902.

The raw material for it is cellulose, which is obtained from crushed wood or cotton processing waste. Cellulose is treated with sodium hydroxide solution, then with carbon disulfide. As a result, a sticky mass is formed, fibers are squeezed out of it, which are then treated with acid. The fabric obtained from such threads is called viscose (from the Latin "viscum" - glue). Another trade name for this material is . By the way, by pushing this solution not through the dies, but through the gap, a cellophane film is obtained.

Viscose fabric has softness, silky sheen, it absorbs moisture well and lets air through.. However, viscose rayon tends to wrinkle a lot, does not hold wrinkles or volume, and is not very durable, especially when wet. The improvement of technologies for the production of artificial fibers has led to the production of new materials based on cellulose, among which the most common are:

Modal. This fabric is made from special types of wood (beech and eucalyptus), characterized by elasticity, strength and high hygienic properties.
Lyocell. For its manufacture, cellulose is treated with methylmorpholine oxide, as a result of which the threads become strong and look like natural fibers, but the price of such a fabric is quite high.
Siblon is a durable artificial silk made from coniferous wood, which almost does not wrinkle and does not shrink.

What is acetate?

Acetate fiber was obtained later than viscose. The raw material for its manufacture is also cellulose, but treated with acetic acid or acetic anhydride ("acetum" - Latin "vinegar"). Then the resulting acetylcellulose is dissolved in acetone, obtaining or in methylene chloride with the addition of alcohol. Threads are formed from these solutions to obtain, respectively, acetate or triacetate silk, which differ little in their properties. These types of fabrics are shiny, soft, but at the same time elastic, hold the fold well, and almost do not wrinkle and do not lose strength when wet. However, they accumulate static electricity, non-hygroscopic, do not tolerate high temperatures and dissolve in acetone. Currently, acetate textiles are falling into disuse, although its production can be attributed to the "cleanest" for artificial materials.

Copper-ammonia fabrics

The first experiments on the dissolution of cellulose were carried out using ammonia and copper sulphate back in the 19th century. But it was possible to obtain copper-ammonia fiber only in 1918, after the industrial technique for the production of viscose had been mastered. However, the properties of the threads obtained in this way compare favorably with other artificial fibers and are as close as possible to the natural prototype. Obtained from them (from the Latin name for copper), it has the following characteristics:

high level of softness and smoothness;
the property of thermoregulation at any temperature;
elasticity and dimensional stability;
hygroscopicity;
breathability;
high strength, which, however, decreases when wet;
color fastness.

Cupra is expensive and considered elite, and its production is environmentally harmful and has a limited character.

How to distinguish a fake?

The difference in the cost of silk materials often leads to their falsification. In order to distinguish one variety from another, it is not enough to be guided by tactile sensations (although they can also tell a lot). The most reliable way is to set fire to the pulled out fiber. Synthetic thread will melt. artificial material of any kind will catch fire, emitting the smell of burning paper. If you are dealing with natural fiber, the smell of burning hair or horn will come from the flame.

Fabric of natural origin. It is obtained from the cocoon of an insect pupa, which is called the "silkworm". Nowadays, there is not only natural, but also artificial silk, as well as material with the addition of synthetics.

Silk fibers were first produced in China. It was in the Celestial Empire that a special technology for manufacturing this wonderful material was discovered back in the 5th millennium BC. For a long time it was kept in the strictest confidence.

There are a huge number of types of silk fabrics. Their main differences are in the technology of weaving, which gives them unique features and appearance.

Atlas is a shiny and dense silk fabric. The surface of the satin is usually smooth, but the material can also be patterned. Atlas is distinguished by a characteristic luster, the front side resembles gloss. This effect is achieved using a special production technology.

The type of weaving of this fabric, like the raw silk itself, was invented in China. Together with the technique of producing material from silkworm cocoons, this knowledge first came to Central Asia, and then to Europe, where the material was widely used.

Gas (gas-illusion, gas-rice, gas-marabou, gas-crystal)

This is a translucent silk fabric, which is achieved by a large space between its threads. The gas is very light and soft. In production different types gas use patterned, smooth and diagonal weaving.

Illusion gas is the thinnest and almost transparent material resembling a light cobweb. Made from the finest silk yarn. Curtains, light scarves, elements of wedding decorations are made from it.

Gaz-rice is light, transparent and slightly rough. The texture is achieved through a special rice weave. Hence the name.

Gaz-marabou is a rather stiff golden raw silk material made from tightly twisted threads. It was widely distributed at the beginning of the 18th century. Used for tailoring lush women's dresses.

The gas-crystal is distinguished by its bright brilliance. In its production, multi-colored threads are used, which makes the surface shimmer, exactly gems. In France, chic ball gowns were sewn from it.

Crepe

The name of the material is translated from French as "wavy", "rough". In the production of crepe, the threads are twisted left and right, alternating in a certain way.

This fabric is characterized by an uneven surface. The texture is somewhat like sand.

The crepe drapes well, lays down in beautiful waves, does not wrinkle. Things sewn from it are worn for a very long time.

In addition to silk crepe, it can be cotton, half-woolen, synthetic. Now it is used mainly for women's dresses.

Thin translucent lightweight fabric made of . It comes in matte and glossy. Patterns are embroidered on organza, original drawings are applied using printing. Costumes for oriental dance and curtains are often sewn from it.

Silk-Satin

Satin comes from the word "zaituni" - the Arabic name for the harbor of Quanzhou in China, the birthplace of this fabric. Silk satin has a smooth, dense surface, which is characterized by a beautiful sheen. Bed linen, men's shirts, lining are made from it.

Silk satin is made from two types of material - 100% cotton satin and pure silk. The weave density of this fabric is 170-220 threads per 1 sq. cm.

Important! Linen made of silk satin is very strong and durable. It withstands over 200 washes, does not rub, and is cheaper than silk. .

A fabric made from tightly twisted silk and cotton threads. Synthetic fibers are often used in the production. Taffeta is distinguished by high density and rigidity. Forms brittle folds, which allows you to achieve additional volume and splendor.

The toile is distinguished by its high density and delicate sheen. This fabric holds its shape excellently and is used as a lining, for sewing dresses and ties.

Chiffon

Very thin airy material made of tightly twisted silk threads. It is transparent, light and flows beautifully. Great for sewing summer blouses and light scarves.

Chesucha (wild silk)

Chesucha is a wild dense silk with an amazing texture. In production, threads of unequal thickness are used, which form such a surface. It is durable, drapes well, but requires delicacy in care. Chesucha is used in sewing curtains and various clothes.

Foulard is most often used as a finishing material. Thin and soft silk fabric, from which shawls, scarves and scarves are sewn. In the 20th century, dresses, curtains and lampshades were also sewn from the foulard.

Dense curtain fabric of medium stiffness, with a pleasant sheen. This exclusive fabric, almost entirely consisting of natural silk. Dupont made in India is especially appreciated. From it sew wedding and evening dresses, accessories and expensive linens.

Silk fabric, in the manufacture of which crepe weaving is used. The front surface of crepe georgette is shiny and rough.

Important! The difference between crepe georgette and other varieties of crepe is the direction of weaving. During production, the warp and weft threads are twisted in different directions. This makes it dense, but light and elastic.

In the era of balls, fashionable women's toilets were sewn from crepe-georgette. Now this fabric is not so popular. Draped curtains are made from it, as well as some models of skirts, blouses and scarves.

Type of silk crepe fabric - h rough with crepe technology of torsion. It has a moderate sheen, dense and thin. Shawls, suits, blouses are sewn from crepe de chine.

Important! Soft flowing folds and draperies are a characteristic feature of this material.

Eponge (or eponge) distinguish between silk and cotton. The material has an uneven spongy surface with a decorative color pattern in the form of cells, stripes, melange.

Brocade has always been considered the fabric of nobles, royalty and church ministers. This heavy material is made from silk with a complex pattern made with a metal thread. Previously, the pattern was made with threads of gold and silver alloys. This explains the high cost of the material.

Nowadays, patterns on brocade are embroidered not only from hard metal threads. Use threads made of linen, silk or cotton.

Muslin is made from natural silk of increased winding. The material is transparent and thin. It is used for tailoring theatrical costumes and dresses.

Twill(Italian sargia, French serge; from Latin sericus - “silk”) - twill production technology - weaving threads diagonally. Each next thread shifts the intersection by 2 or more other threads. Twill is produced one-colored or printed. Used as a lining, technical or dress fabric, for tailoring workwear.

Excelsior, Excelsior

Plain weave silk fabric with a pronounced sheen, thin and transparent. In production, untwisted thread is used. The Excelsior drapes well. The fabric is very beautiful. It is used by designers working with batik, as well as creating silk flowers and decorative elements.

Charmeuse is very similar to satin. Both have a smooth front surface with a characteristic sheen. You can tell the difference by feeling the material: charmeuse is thinner and softer than satin.

Silk cambric contains approximately 3% silk, which gives things shine. For its manufacture, plain weave is used. Batiste flows beautifully and forms elegant folds. Good for long dresses.

Whatever type of silk you choose, the main thing is to avoid synthetic fakes and you can be sure of the quality of the product. Silk does not cause allergies, and clothes made from it proper care makes you happy for years to come.

Silk holds a leading position among the variety of fabrics due to the fact that it attracts with the color of patterns and colors, tenderness and weightlessness. The name "artificial silk" is often found in fabric stores. Under it, fabrics and products are sold not only from artificial fibers, but also from synthetic ones. Therefore, when choosing a fabric, you need to pay attention to the composition. If the presented material consists of 100% polyester or with the addition of spadex, then it is synthetic (for example,), which has its own characteristics and properties.

Description and properties

The concept of "artificial silk" in relation to a fabric made of artificial fibers combines two main categories: viscose silk and acetate (triacetate). These fibers are like natural silk, both in appearance and in most physical properties. At present, silky viscose fiber is used to make not only fabric, but also silk yarn, both in bobbins for the industrial production of knitwear, and for hand knitting. For fabrics, acetate fibers are used more. Blouse, dress, lining, or curtain fabrics are found from acetate silk.

Silky smoothness, brightness of colors and shine, softness and elasticity characterize rayon and make it popular.

The material has a wide range of applications. He goes to tailoring bright and comfortable clothes for everyday use and festive attire. Elegant and colorful head and neck scarves, stoles are made of rayon. Home textiles, curtains and cozy sleeping sets are made from it.

All kinds of products are beautiful, comfortable, easy to drape, soft and silky at an affordable price.

History of appearance

China is considered to be the origin of the material. First, the production of natural silk was established using a labor-intensive and lengthy technology, which happened a couple of thousand years ago. Silk spread all over the world and was available only to wealthy people. He enjoyed extraordinary popularity.

The increase in the population required the provision of high-quality and affordable clothing to an increasing number of people. In all respects, silk products were recognized as the best. It was required to obtain an analogue from available raw materials with the preservation of properties and at a low price for mass production.

A sample of viscose, which in Latin means "sticky, viscous", was presented by a French chemist at the end of the 19th century at the Paris Textile Exhibition. To obtain it, it was necessary to treat cellulose with alkali and acetic acid. The sample corresponded to the natural analogue: it shone, absorbed moisture and was well ventilated by air. The emergence of artificial silk technology influenced the development of the textile industry and the mass production of fabrics.

Viscose silk

The mass production of silk from artificial threads was taken up by the American brand DuPont at the beginning of the 20th century. The products were not inferior in quality to analogues and were cheaper. Artificial silk was in demand, and several factories were launched to meet the needs. In the middle of the 1930s, the production of linen made of artificial fibers exceeded the production of natural silk by 7 times.

Modern technology for the production of threads for artificial silk is divided into two main stages: obtaining raw materials, that is, cellulose and creating fibers. Mostly hydrated cellulose (viscose) is used, less often cellulose ether fibers (acetate or triacetate). Beyond silk,

Process sequence production of viscose fiber is as follows:

First, cellulose is obtained from crushed wood raw materials. It is boiled in a special solution, washed and dried on a conveyor.
The resulting mass is processed in a hot alkaline solution, which swells.
It is squeezed out of moisture residues and crushed.
Further, they are exposed to oxygen and carbon disulfide, dissolved in caustic soda.
The solution undergoes aging for several days and viscose is formed.
The contents are filtered and forced through the spinnerets of the spinning machine.
The mass in thin streams enters the precipitation bath with acid. There it hardens in the form of threads.

The final finishing of the viscose fiber ends in drawing, washing, if necessary bleaching, oiling and twisting.

From the threads obtained from this fiber, viscose silk is produced.

Material Advantages

The category "artificial silk" refers to a series of fabrics with a smooth and shiny surface like silk, made from wood waste. The raw material for the production of artificial fibers is natural cellulose obtained from beech, spruce, pine, fir or cotton fluff. At present, mainly to create artificial silk, threads of flat, medium (muslin) and strong (crepe) twists from viscose or cellulose ether (acetate) fibers are used.

Artificial silk is a thin, airy material with a beautiful sheen that has an undeniable appeal. Products made from such a fabric are comfortable to wear and retain their shape for a long time due to high-quality fibers in the composition.

The material has the following properties:

Soft and smooth on contact.
Hygroscopic and breathable.
Lightness and strength.
Ease of sewing and creating draperies.
Hypoallergenic and antistatic.
Color fastness.
High performance.
Simple care.

The hygienic properties of viscose silk are comparable to cotton, due to the high content of cellulose.

Flaws

The disadvantages of the fabric include a decrease in breathable characteristics compared to natural silk. And also artificial analogues do not have components that have an antibacterial effect.

Viscose silk is easily wrinkled without the addition of synthetics. When wet, this fabric loses strength and elasticity, it stretches, can lose shape and even tear if not properly cared for.

Acetate silk, its difference from viscose

Acetate silk is a fabric obtained from triacetate or diacetate threads. Fiber learned to get much later than viscose. Cellulose is also used to produce the material.

Silk from cellulose ether fibers has less hygroscopicity than viscose, so it dries faster. At a temperature of 140 degrees, these fibers soften, so the material from them must be ironed through a damp cloth in the correct mode. These fibers are unstable to alkalis, so you need to wash the material from them with mild detergents. Artificial silk made from cellulose ether fibers is resistant to microorganisms. The disadvantage of the material is the high electrification. Fabrics made from these fibers transmit ultraviolet rays.

A distinctive feature of the canvas is softness, elasticity and glossy surface. The fabric keeps its shape, does not lose its attractiveness after wetting and prolonged use.

Modern light industry already uses acetate silk less. Although the production technology remains the most environmentally friendly in relation to the production of other artificial fabrics. The decrease in production of acetate silk is associated with an increase in demand for synthetic silks, which have the advantages of wrinkle resistance and low cost. Any print is perfectly applied to a fabric made of synthetic fibers.

Acetate and triacetate fiber production technology

Grinding of wood raw materials.
Purification of cellulose.
The action of acetic anhydride on cellulose in the presence of a solvent - acetic acid and a catalyst - perchloric or sulfuric acid. This reaction is irreversible and results in the formation of cellulose triacetate (CTA).
Upon further hydrolysis of cellulose triacetate, this ester is partially saponified and cellulose diacetate (DAC) is formed.
TAC and DAC are precipitated from the solution with water and dried.
Solid cellulose triacetate is dissolved in methylene chloride with the addition of alcohol. And cellulose diacetate is dissolved in acetone with the addition of water to improve fiber spinning conditions.
The resulting heated spinning solution DTS flows in streams to the spinneret, and then to the mine with hot air. Acetone evaporates, while water remains in the fiber and contributes to its elasticity. Methylene chloride evaporates in the hot air shaft, and the alcohol remaining in the fiber gives it elasticity.

The final finishing of TSAT and DATS fibers is stretching, oiling, twisting and heat setting.

How to distinguish artificial fiber from synthetic in fabric

Natural, artificial and synthetic silk are similar in appearance and a number of characteristics, so it is not immediately possible to distinguish between them.

Natural silk fiber is obtained from the silkworm cocoon. It is a protein product of caterpillar excretion. Refers to the elite and expensive materials.

Artificial fiber is created by processing high quality natural cellulose using chemicals.

Synthetic fiber (polyester) is synthesized from petroleum products.

Synthetic fabric does not wrinkle when worn, but has low air permeability and hygroscopicity.
Artificial material - intermediate. It has good hygienic and physical properties, but wrinkled.
Natural fabric will retain heat in winter and cool in summer, unlike synthetic fabric - slippery and cold, but also wrinkled a lot.

You can also determine the approximate composition of the material when buying. This will require a small piece of fabric or thread. It is set on fire and the smell and combustion process are analyzed. Natural silk smolders without the formation of flames. The smoldering stops immediately when the match is removed. There is a smell like burning hair or woolen threads.

Artificial silk, when burned, forms a flame and emits a smell like burnt paper. The process continues even in the absence of a fire source. The sample rapidly turns to ash.

As a result of the combustion of synthetic silk, a solid mass remains that cannot be rubbed by hand. It has a characteristic plastic smell.

Care rules

Attractive silk is in demand in light industry. Beautiful and pleasant to wear things from it will delight longer with bright colors with careful care.

Washing can be used by hand and machine in a "delicate" mode.
Liquid detergents use is preferable, and the powder is completely dissolved in water before immersing things.
Spinning and twisting when wet can damage the fibers.
Ironing with wrong side at low temperature or in the “silk” position of the regulator.

The Chinese have recognized for centuries that silk has amazing health benefits. Medical studies show that natural silk, obtained from silkworms, contains 18 amino acids, which improve blood circulation and the digestive system.

Silk is 97% proteins, the remaining 3% are fats and waxes.

Fibrion, one of the silk proteins, heals the skin, slowing down the aging process. It has a high ability to retain moisture, due to which it is often used in the manufacture of cosmetics.

Amino acids and proteins, which are rich in silk fibers and silkworm cocoons, are widely used in the production of creams for moisturizing and nourishing the skin, as well as skin care products that heal microcracks and help smooth wrinkles. Proteins are able to create on the outer part of the skin - the epidermis - a thin film that prevents the evaporation of moisture. Chinese women in ancient times, knowing about the healing properties of silk, rubbed the body with a silk cloth, why skin became soft and smooth. Silk proteins are often included in shampoos, penetrating into the hair, they restore damaged areas and protect against harmful effects. environment. Enveloping the hair with a thin layer on the outside, silk proteins retain moisture, but do not weigh down the hair. When buying a balm or hair conditioner, pay attention to this useful property silks.

Silk threads are incredibly smooth, and therefore the resulting silk fabric is very pleasant for the body, glides over the skin and does not cause irritation when rubbed. Sleep takes up a significant part of the time of the day (6-9 hours), and this time can be used for the benefit of the body if you sleep on natural silk bedding. Remember what one of the heroines of the film "Amelie" directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet did not like? She didn't like to see the prints and wrinkles after sleep on her face in the morning. Such traces can be left by cotton bedding. If she'd slept on silk sheets, this wouldn't have happened.
Silk does not attract dust, dust mites do not start in it. These arachnids are 0.1-0.5 mm in size. they feed on dead skin particles that a person loses every day in the amount of 300-400 grams. The waste products of dust mites can cause allergic reactions, neurodermatitis. Pillows, mattresses, bedspreads and other bedding serve as habitat for ticks. Dust mites do not start in natural silk bed linen. Silk-filled pillows and duvets are also hypoallergenic. The source of this health benefit is siricin (one of the proteins in silk), which prevents the occurrence of dust mites. People who are allergic to down, wool, feathers should pay attention to silk bedding.

Silk is also resistant to mold and mildew, which can attack the fibers of other fabrics. People suffering from asthma, fever or fever symptoms will find relief in bed with silk linens. For thousands of years, the Chinese have known that silk helps with pain associated with arthritis and rheumatism. It helps reduce the discomfort caused by itchy skin and helps prevent vascular sclerosis. Silk has unique properties, thanks to which, silk bed linen allows you to provide a more comfortable, full and restful sleep. Bedding made from other fabrics does not have such a beneficial effect. Due to the fact that silk threads are cylindrical and hollow inside, they are able to absorb up to 30% moisture. Accordingly, silk bedding perfectly absorbs moisture released by human skin as a result of sweating and metabolic processes during sleep. At the same time, it remains dry to the touch and quickly evaporates moisture, has the property of thermoregulation, maintains the temperature that is optimal for the human body.

Silk is justifiably recognized as useful, beneficial, very soft, light, strong, as well as the most elite and expensive of all natural fibers. Silk also retains heat incredibly well. The softness and lightness of natural silk provides a good alternative for people suffering in conditions where the weight of bedding can be a cause of discomfort. Silk bedding improves the quality of sleep.

The chemical composition of silk: 97% proteins, including amino acids - glycerol (44.5%), alanine (29.3%), serine (12.1%), valine (2.2%), tyrosine (5.2%) %), glutamic acid (1%), etc.

Chemical formula of silk: C 15 H 23 O 6 N 5

Rayon- this is mercerized cotton or viscose, or a mixture of fibers obtained by artificial means.

Mercerization is the treatment of cotton fiber with sodium hydroxide iodine (NAOH) to give it a sheen, greater strength, softness, and better dyeability. Cotton can also be ironed through special heated rollers to give shine to the threads. A fabric made from pre-chemically treated cotton is called rayon, due to its external similarity and better durability. But by nature, chemical composition and the resulting properties - this is cellulose C 6 H 10 O 5.

Viscose, in composition, also consists of cellulose, but it is produced by a special industrial method. Cotton or shredded wood is treated with a concentrated aqueous solution of NAOH to obtain a cellulose spinning solution. This thick yellow solution is forced through tiny holes in the chemical bath, resulting in long fibers that are then twisted into yarn. Viscose fabric is also called "artificial silk", it has good hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture). Viscose is the first artificial fabric invented by man. This outstanding person was a French scientist Guiller de Chardonnay, and its discovery dates back to 1884. Artificial silk bed linen is pleasant to the touch, has a beautiful sheen and is much cheaper than natural silk sets. Viscose silk lends itself well to dyeing, is resistant to light, and has good wear resistance. The only thing is that viscose bedding should be washed carefully, by hand or in washing machine in the delicate cycle, as the fabric becomes less durable when wet. Synthetic silk bedding should not be twisted or wrung out strongly after washing.

How to distinguish natural silk from artificial silk?

If you have ever touched natural silk fabric, you can always distinguish it from artificial silk, as this touch is extremely pleasant, memorable, gentle and soft. If you hold natural silk in your hands, it quickly becomes warm, unlike artificial silk. If you try to tear the rayon fabric, it will not be difficult. Artificial silk tears easily, breaking up into individual fibers. It is especially fragile when wet. Real silk, in contrast to the above, is very strong, and if you manage to break it, then the resulting pieces of fabric will be with even edges, thanks to the strength of each silk thread. Artificial silk threads are of almost perfect thickness, as they are produced using a special technology by squeezing a cellulose solution through the smallest holes. Therefore, the fabric woven from such threads, upon closer examination, seems ideal. In natural silk fabric, you will always notice the smallest inaccuracies in the structure of the threads. Also, due to this imperfection, natural silk shimmers in different colors in the light. Artificial silk shines entirely, with a monochromatic sheen. If you set fire to a few natural silk threads, then the smell of a burnt horn, burnt wool or hair will appear. This smell arises due to the chemical composition of silk from proteins (proteins). After burning, the silk turns into a black hard ember that can be rubbed in the palm of your hand. Artificial silk is made from cellulose, so if you set fire to a few of its threads, you will smell paper, and after burning, only crumbly ash will remain.

Also, it should be noted that the price of natural silk bedding sets will be high, and if the cost of a silk set is commensurate with the cost of high-quality cotton or satin bedding, then this is artificial silk. , of course, is inferior in terms of healing properties to natural, but in general, in terms of its characteristics, it can compete with cotton, satin and jacquard bedding. The raw material for artificial silk bedding is raw materials of plant origin (cellulose), so it cannot be called synthetic.

If you are not ready to buy silk bed linen yet, then turn your attention to rayon bed linen. In our online bedding store you will find beautiful creased silk and cotton sets from Tivolyo Home and gorgeous embroidered and beaded bed linen from Home Sweet Home. The beauty that these bedding sets fill the bedroom is truly captivating.

Types of silk fabrics

The fabric is a textile product consisting of intertwined horizontal and vertical threads - weft and warp threads. The threads that run along the fabric are called warp threads. The threads located across the fabric are weft. The essence and peculiarity of the fabric lies in its structure, formed by a certain way of weaving these groups of threads. The properties that a fabric possesses depend both on the composition of the threads (silk, cotton, synthetic), and on the method of their weaving and processing.

Weaving is the production of fabric on looms. This is one of the most ancient crafts that our distant ancestors were engaged in. Weaving evolved from weaving, an even more ancient craft.

From silk, a large number of different fabrics are obtained, differing appearance, texture, density. But all of them are united by the beauty that silk gives. The advantages of silk fabrics are undeniable: they are light, shiny, easily absorb moisture, breathable. They have one small drawback - they do not tolerate sunlight well, ultraviolet rays spoil them, the color is unstable to light.

Silk threads are very strong and elastic. This allows you to twist them in various ways and get a variety of fabrics.

What fabrics are made from silk?

This is a common and well-known satin, which has a glossy, smooth front surface with a delightful sheen and a matte wrong side. Satin weaving was invented in ancient China. A variety of satin is charmeuse - a thinner fabric obtained from silk. Crepe de chine is a fabric often used as drapery. The name "crepe de chine" in translation from French"crepe" means wavy. The fabric has a rough fine-grained surface, due to which it does not have a very pronounced sheen. Initially, veils were sewn from crepe de chine. Currently, the fabric is used for sewing blouses, shawls, voluminous dresses with beautiful flowing flounces. There are several varieties of crepe de chine. Georgette crepe is a thin, translucent silk fabric that is more shiny than crepe de chine. Crepe chiffon has a matte finish. Crepe satin is made from artificial silk threads. It is a satin weave fabric on the front side and matte on the wrong side. From silk get this interesting fabric like silk-epontazh. Eponge is French for sponge. This silk fabric has a rough, sponge-like surface. It is woven with a colored pattern, in a cage, stripes, in the form of melange patterns. Toile, which in French is "toile" - a light fabric, is a thin, shiny silk fabric of plain weaving. It is often used as a lining when tailoring expensive clothes. Chiffon is also a common fabric. This is an airy, light, transparent, very thin silk fabric, similar to a veil. Gas is a delicate, translucent, light silk fabric. Thanks to a special weave, there is space between the threads, which gives this fabric a special charm. The gas has many varieties, obtained using multi-colored silk threads and their special twisting. Most used in tailoring suits for oriental dances fabric is organza. This is a thin, but tough fabric with transparency. Organza is obtained not only from natural silk, but from artificial - viscose, as well as from polyester. This silk fabric can be shiny and matte, with various patterns, as well as perforated. Foulard is a light, very soft, fragile silk fabric that is used for decoration, sometimes with ornaments. A thin translucent cotton fabric of plain weave made of very fine twisted yarn that has undergone mercerization is called silk cambric. Wild silk is used to produce a special kind of coarse silk fabric - flax. This is a harsh yellow fabric. One of the most ancient silk fabrics, which began to be made at the beginning of our era in China, is brocade. It consists of silk and metal threads intertwined in amazing patterns - gold and silver. In ancient times, the price of brocade was very high, as it included threads made of real precious metal. Currently, Lurex is woven into brocade. In Russia, brocade is a well-known fabric, the first production of which dates back to the end of the 16th century. A variety of brocade is altabas - a dense silk fabric with an ornament, which was widely used for the royal court. Velvet is also obtained from silk - a soft fluffy fleecy material.

Viscose is often called acetate silk, and the fabric, light and smooth, obtained from it, is acetate. Modal is a fabric obtained from viscose fiber, which has a high hygroscopicity, exceeding cotton by 1.5 times. The fabric does not shrink after washing, it is soft, smooth, slightly cool to the touch, does not fade or fade. Barege is an airy cotton and silk fabric used for scarves and veils. Dyed silk highest quality called Grogron. In the vestments of the priests, one-colored dark, wrinkle-resistant grodetur fabric was used. And for the manufacture of hats, and beautiful ladies' shoes, a very dense one-colored fabric - grodenapl - was used. Silk Damascus - this heavy material was used for church vestments. She is of oriental origin. Cloquet is a one-colored silk fabric with an uneven pile, very wrinkled, used for sewing dresses. A silk fabric with wavy patterns is called moire. It is used in the manufacture of ribbons and has a so-called "moiré pattern". Nate is a silk fabric formed by interlacing thick and thin silk threads that create an evenly repeating pattern. The fabric is used for sewing women's dresses. For the production of ties, ombre is often used - a light silk fabric with repeating colored stripes. It is made from both natural silk and artificial viscose silk. Pique is a dense silk fabric with ribs, used for finishing and making vests. Poplin is better known as cotton fabric, but there is also silk poplin - a dense, shiny, smooth fabric, the density of the main threads of which is higher than the density of the transverse threads. There are also such silk fabrics as taffeta, fai, flamingo, tire, damask and some others.

- this is a thin "wrinkled" fabric with many durable folds, creases, which are obtained due to the prolonged exposure to the press.

Elite silk bed linen can be compared to a work of art, as it has an original cut, various silk fabrics are used to decorate it, silk embroidery on silk, beads, ribbons are used. Such sets of silk bed linen have a very high price. But a high-quality and original product will never be cheap, since the price of the original elements used for its manufacture is high.

We hope that this review helped to reveal the health benefits of real silk, described the main differences between natural silk and artificial silk, helped to understand the variety of silk fabrics and fabrics made from artificial silk fibers, and also suggested what wrinkled silk is.