Dyeing wool with acid dyes. Dyeing wool at home Dye for wool yarn
Any thing from frequent use can change its qualities over time, especially when it comes to color. Clothing can fade, rub, stains appear on it. It also happens with woolen things, for example, sweaters or jackets. It is quite difficult to buy a really good product made of natural high-quality wool, since not everyone will be able to afford the price of such clothes. But woolen clothing is practical (warm, soft and cozy), and few of us deny ourselves such a pleasure.
If it’s completely unbearable to part with your favorite thing, you can independently bring the product into proper shape. One such way is to re-dye the sweater. At home, you should use special aniline dyes for yarn or natural dyes, that is, decoctions from the bark of trees, leaves, fruits, flowers, etc.
Dyeing a sweater with aniline dye
One of the most popular ways to restore your favorite little thing to its proper look is to use aniline dye. You can additionally learn about the correctness of your choice from the seller, and choose a really suitable tool. Usually the client selects a shade identical to the product or a color close to it.
How to measure the required dose? First you need to determine the weight of the product in a dry state. If you intend to radically change the color of the sweater, you must first bleach it with Persol. True, such an impact can adversely affect the general condition of the product, since woolen things do not really like radical methods of influencing fibers.
What should be done next? Place the sweater in a bowl of warm water and prepare the dye according to package directions. If you want to give things a more saturated shade, the dosage of the substance can be increased. Add the dye to an enameled container (for example, a deep saucepan), transfer the wet sweater there and boil on the stove. Boiling should be carried out on low heat, constantly turning and stirring the sweater. After 20 minutes of such actions, remove the product from the container, dilute kitchen salt in a bowl with the remaining liquid in proportions of 50 g of crystals per 2 liters of solution, lower the item there again and boil for another 20 minutes.
After turning off the stove, do not remove the sweater from the dish until the dye has completely cooled. Then it needs to be squeezed out, and then rinsed several times in cold water. At the last rinse, a few milliliters of table vinegar are added to the basin (for the final fixing of the paint). When all these steps are completed, gently wring out the sweater, getting rid of excess liquid with a towel, spread the product on a flat surface and leave to dry completely. To prevent the thing from acquiring an unpleasant odor, it needs to be turned over occasionally.
How to dye a sweater with natural dye
To use natural dyes, you first need to prepare a decoction. Crushed plants are boiled in soft water, and then allowed to brew. The next step is this: pour the product you want to color with broth and simmer for about an hour over low heat. After the boiling time has elapsed, leave the sweater in the solution until it cools completely. Then squeeze and rinse in clean cold water (as described above).
Again, you can make a sweater rich black or repaint it from a different color using ordinary alcohol wood stain. To begin with, the product must be washed and rinsed well. We spread the clothes prepared for processing on a flat surface. Getting ready to apply the product: take rubber gloves, a piece of foam rubber and an alcohol substance. The sweater must be thoroughly soaked with stain on both sides. After an hour and a half, the product should be rinsed in running water, squeezed and soaked in a solution of vinegar (200 grams of the substance per 10 liters of water). After 60 minutes of soaking, wring out the product again. Be sure to rinse the sweater several times and dry thoroughly.
Remember that when using any of the indicated methods of painting, there is a risk of hopelessly ruining the thing, so try them only on those sweaters that, if anything, would not be a pity to throw away.
If you are dyeing wool for the first time, then it is better to use only one color, and once you get the hang of it, you can safely mix colors. The best container for solid wool is a small silicone mold or plastic container. Lay the wool in the form so that the material fits completely into the container. Then mix 1 cup of water and 0.5 cup and pour into the mold, then gently press the wool to the bottom of the mold with a spatula, completely immersing it in, and leave for 30 minutes. After this time, add a glass of water at room temperature and 30 drops of dye to the container (it is convenient to use liquid dye for a soap base), stirring with a spatula, carefully distribute the dye. Follow this procedure carefully so as not to tangle the coat. Experiment with the amount of dye: the more dye, the richer the color of the wool. When the dye is completely absorbed and the wool acquires a uniform color, cover the mold with a lid and send it to the microwave for 5 minutes. Then wait for the mixture to cool to room temperature before opening the lid. Remove the wool from the mold and transfer to a large bowl or basin and rinse thoroughly with room temperature water. When the water is no longer stained with wool, the fibers are ready for drying, as they have completely absorbed the pigment. To dry, spread the wool on paper towels or polyethylene and leave to dry. Wool dries for a long time, so it is very convenient to leave the material to dry overnight.
If you want wool in several colors at once, then you need to soak the material in warm water for about ten minutes. During this time, you can dilute the dyes. Use acid powder dye as it is ideal for dyeing wool. Dilute the dye in warm water - the brighter the color you want to get, the more add the coloring powder. When the dye has completely dissolved, pour the composition into a spray bottle (this device is very convenient to dye wool in several colors at once). Add table vinegar there - the ratio of proportions is 50/50, shake thoroughly. Prepare the rest of the dyes in the same way. Usually, three colors of the same gamut are used for coloring, for example, blue, purple, pink - this helps the gradient effect. When ready, spread the wool on cellophane and start spraying paint from the spray gun, do this sequentially, mentally dividing the wool into three equal parts, each of which needs to be sprayed with a certain color. After the wool is well saturated with paint, take one edge of the cellophane and roll the material into a tight roll. Put the roll in plastic bag, which in turn must be simmered in a water bath for about 20 minutes. Rinse the cooled wool and lay it out to dry.
If you are dyeing wool for the first time, then it is better to use only one color, and once you get the hang of it, you can safely mix colors. The best container for creating solid wool is a small silicone mold or plastic container. Lay the wool in the form so that the material fits completely into the container. Then mix 1 cup of water and 0.5 cup of vinegar and pour into the mold, then gently press the wool to the bottom of the mold with a spatula, completely immersing it in the solution, and leave for 30 minutes. After this time, add a glass of water at room temperature and 30 drops of dye to the container (it is convenient to use liquid dye for a soap base), stirring with a spatula, carefully distribute the dye. Follow this procedure carefully so as not to tangle the coat. Experiment with the amount of dye: the more dye, the richer the color of the wool. When the dye is completely absorbed and the wool acquires a uniform color, cover the mold with a lid and send it to the microwave for 5 minutes. Then wait for the mixture to cool to room temperature before opening the lid. Remove the wool from the mold and transfer to a large bowl or basin and rinse thoroughly with room temperature water. When the water is no longer stained with wool, the fibers are ready for drying, as they have completely absorbed the pigment. To dry, spread the wool on paper towels or polyethylene and leave to dry. Wool dries for a long time, so it is very convenient to leave the material to dry overnight.
If you want to dye the wool in several colors at once, then you need to soak the material in warm water for about ten minutes. During this time, you can dilute the dyes. Use acid powder dye as it is ideal for dyeing wool. Dilute the dye in warm water - the brighter the color you want to get, the more add the coloring powder. When the dye has completely dissolved, pour the composition into a spray bottle (this device is very convenient to dye wool in several colors at once). Add table vinegar there - the ratio of proportions is 50/50, shake thoroughly. Prepare the rest of the dyes in the same way. Usually, three colors of the same gamut are used for coloring, for example, blue, purple, pink - this helps to achieve a gradient effect. When the paint is ready, spread the wool on the cellophane and start spraying the paint from the spray gun, do this sequentially, mentally dividing the wool into three equal parts, each of which needs to be sprayed with a certain color. After the wool is well saturated with paint, take one edge of the cellophane and roll the material into a tight roll. Put the roll in a plastic bag, which in turn must be simmered in a water bath for about 20 minutes. Rinse the cooled wool and lay it out to dry.
If you have a need to dye wool, other wool or yarn products, the following tips will help you.
Attention. The most natural color of wool is the color of the wool itself, all methods of dyeing or bleaching, especially chemical ones, in one way or another harm the wool. Boiling and dyeing confuses the fibers making them stiff and more brittle. This is important if you want to color, for example down scarf. Naturally, dyeing with natural dyes is more preferable. If you are dyeing wool for the first time, be sure to test it on a small piece first.
Products made from natural goat down have long been dyed with natural dyes, using decoctions of herbs, berries, tree bark and other plant components. Listed below are a variety of plants that give their color. All dyes give one or another shade of dye, depending on the amount of dye in relation to the amount of wool. Those. the more dye there is, the brighter the color will turn out. The combination of different colors different shades. You can experiment endlessly. The color of the wool you get can be seen from the color of the water before adding the wool (the color of the wool will be lighter than the color of the water). You can remove the hair from the solution until the end of the procedure, if you think that saturation is enough for you. If the water after removing the wool has not become discolored, it can be dyed only in more light shade. Before dyeing a large amount of wool, a downy shawl or a wool product, be sure to experiment on a small amount of wool, for example.
Red
- buckthorn (wolfberry): young leaves and branches are used before flowering;
- elder: ripe berries are used;
- oregano: the herb is used.
Yellow
- birch: bark (yellowish tint) and leaves (bright color) are used;
- wormwood: grass is used (the color comes out straw);
- poplar: buds are used;
- nettle: roots are used;
- buckthorn: fresh bark is used (dried gives a brown tint);
- peel of an orange or lemon;
- carrots, turmeric (ground) and cumin (zira).
Brown
- oak: leaves and bark of the tree are used;
- mosses and lichens growing on stones;
- dried buckthorn bark;
- horse sorrel root dug out in autumn;
- basma;
- strong coffee.
orange pink
a mixture of carrots, orange peel and one tablespoon of cinnamon will give color.
For red-brick gentle
beets are useful for color, and for dark purple, red onion husks.
Blue
- blackberries;
- blueberries;
- meadow sage: grass is used;
- Ivan da Marya (flowers);
- quinoa seeds;
- red cabbage.
Green
- elderberry leaves;
- sorrel leaves;
- juniper berries;
- inner bark of bird cherry and poplar;
- spinach (you can add ground turmeric to it).
Grey
- periwinkle: grass is used (the color is dark gray);
- spruce bark;
- bearberry leaves (light gray color)
Black color
give maple leaves.
Orange
- wild apple bark;
- leaves and stems of celandine.
golden brown
- dry bulb husks;
- henna;
- black tea (brewing).
Dyeing wool with natural dyes
Wool dyed with natural dyes does not lose its properties, and the color is bright and durable. In order to get a good coloring solution, you need to try a little: it is boiled several times. The dyed water is poured into a container where the product will be painted, and the remaining raw materials are again filled with water and boiled - and so on until all the color is boiled out.
For dyeing, wool must be boiled in the prepared solution over low heat for one to two hours, stirring constantly. Do not keep the wool on fire for too long, otherwise the fibers can become tangled and become coarser. When the wool has acquired the desired color, remove the container from the heat and let cool. Then you need to wash the product or yarn until it stops dyeing - and then dry it in the fresh air.
In order to achieve a more saturated color and additionally fix the shade, mordant can be added to the solution during the staining process. Mordants are special substances that enhance the durability of the dye on wool. Mortars make wool fibers less sensitive to light and moisture.
Mortars are natural and chemical. The former include tea leaves, mosses, acorns (these components contain a small amount of alum). A solution is prepared for dressing with natural substances: 50-100 grams of the desired plant is taken per 100 grams of wool and boiled over low heat under a lid for about 45 minutes. After the solution has cooled, wool is immersed in it. On low heat, the liquid is heated, but not brought to a boil, for another 45 minutes.
Chemical dressings are alum (an absolutely safe substance that can be bought at pharmacies), cream of tartar (it can be found in supermarkets) - a white powder obtained from grape acid after fermentation, copper sulfate (copper sulfate) and ferrous sulfate (iron sulfate) - sold in stores for summer residents, acetic acid. For dressing with chemical substances, wool or a dyed product is removed from the solution, where the mordant is added, and then again immersed in the solution. It is very important to constantly stir the wool during the pickling process and turn it over in the solution - this will help to avoid spots.
Chemical dyeing of wool
For dyeing wool and products from it, chemical dyes are also used - aniline dyes. The method of preparing the solution and dyeing wool is indicated on the packaging with the substance. Need to remember a few important rules to help you color. Pay attention to the dishes in which you are going to dye wool: it should be voluminous so that the product or skein of wool lies freely there. It is best to choose an enameled container. Before dyeing, it is important to wet the wool thoroughly, and it should be completely immersed in the dye solution so that even a small corner does not rise above the surface of the solution.
The solution is prepared as follows. In half a liter of boiling water, the powder from the bag dissolves, mixes well and settles and cools for some time. After that, you need to strain the mixture through 2-3 layers of gauze and pour it into a container for staining (the water temperature should not be higher than room temperature). Immerse six in the resulting solution and bring it to a boil. The whole procedure - from the moment the product is immersed in the dye solution and until the end of painting - should not take more than 40 minutes. Wool or your woolen product must be constantly stirred in the solution, as it will float to the top. Wool absorbs the dye and the water in which the product or skein of wool is located will gradually begin to brighten - this sure sign that the staining process is proceeding correctly. To speed up the process, you can add a little vinegar to the water (for example, to dye 500 grams of wool, half a glass of vinegar takes half a bucket of solution). One part of the vinegar must be poured at the beginning of staining, the second - at the end. If you dye wool in light colors, add vinegar only 25 minutes after the solution boils. We take out the wool, dyed in the desired shade, from the solution, let it drain well and cool. Then you need to rinse it properly in several waters, adding vinegar to the last.
When the need arises to dye yarn, we immediately think of chemical dyes and are lost if suitable dyes are not found. Vegetable paints, which nature itself offers us, are almost forgotten today. But a little over a century ago, only vegetable dyes were used. Knitted and embroidered products of that time are painted surprisingly strongly. They amaze us today with their variety of soft pastel shades. Let's pay special attention to natural dyes.
Before you start dyeing the yarn, you need to prepare the dye and fixer.
Pickling
When dyeing yarn with any dye, both chemical and natural, it is necessary to fix the dye so that the color of the yarn is stable in the future and the yarn does not shed. To fix (etch) natural dyes, you can use the following fixers (mordants): vinegar, birch ash, sauerkraut brine, alum, copper sulfate, tartaric acid and other fixers. But please pay attention to the fact that the same plant, when using different fixatives, gives a different color. In many cases, if the stain is not used, the yarn will take on a beige or light brown color. To obtain the color of yarn of light tones, use alum for etching, and to obtain dark tones, you can use chrome etch, copper or iron sulphate. The resulting color will also be affected by the method of etching performed: pre-etch, simultaneous or post-etch.
To prepare the pickling, you can use the following method: for 100 g of yarn, dissolve 4 g of alum, 0.5 g of iron sulfate or 1 g of copper sulfate, dissolve in 2-3 liters of water.
There are three ways to perform etching.
Method 1. Etching and coloring occur simultaneously.
This method is the most common and is considered the most convenient. Add a fixative to the prepared dye. Dip the skeins prepared for dyeing into the resulting solution (read how to prepare yarn for dyeing in the article “Preparing for yarn dyeing”). Do not forget that the yarn must be perfectly clean and wet. Boil the yarn over low heat for 45 - 60 minutes.
Method 2. Pretreatment.
Dissolve the fixative in water and boil the yarn in this solution for 15-20 minutes. Then transfer the wet yarn, without wringing, into the dye and boil for another 45 - 60 minutes.
Using this method of pickling, the yarn after dyeing acquires a darker, more intense color.
Method 3. Post-treatment.
First, dye the yarn, and then remove the yarn from the dye solution. Add a fixative to the dye and mix the resulting solution well. Put the yarn back into the solution and continue to boil the yarn in this solution for about 30 minutes.
Coloring
What amazing shades of brown can be obtained from spruce cones and brushwood. And from dry birch leaves you can get a wonderful yellow and yellow dye at home. beige colour, and from ordinary onion peel - yellow.
Natural dyes can be obtained from plant branches, bark, leaves, fruits, as well as plant roots. For the preparation of dyes, you can take both fresh plants and dried ones. Dyes from fresh plants give a brighter, more saturated color than dried ones, but this color is less resistant.
The color of the dye is also affected by the time of collection of plants. Leaves are best harvested in early June, when they are still young and capable of producing more intense shades. Collect flowers when they are just in bloom. Spring is the best time to harvest bark. At this time, the bark is better separated from the trunk. Harvest the roots of the plant either before the plant blooms or in the fall.
The resulting color of the yarn after dyeing depends on many factors, but the plant itself sets the color palette. Here, for example, what colors can be obtained from various plants:
|
Color |
Plants |
|
Ledum, elderberry (shrub), heather (leaves and berries), St. John's wort, stinging nettle, juniper (berries), horsetail (stems), poplar (bark, branches, leaves), bird cherry (bark, branches), sorrel (leaves) , tansy (leaves), mountain ash (bark). |
|
|
Basma, woad (leaves), cornflower (flower petals), buckwheat (leaves), blackberry (berries), litmus, club moss (stems), blueberries (berries), sage (stems and leaves). |
|
|
Brown |
Cherry (branches, leaves), oak (bark, acorns), horse sorrel (root dug in autumn), buckthorn (dry bark), lichen, alder (leaves, bark), onion (husk), plum (branches, leaves) , dandelion. |
|
Elderberry (ripe berries), wolfberry (ripe berries), oregano (extracts), St. John's wort (flowers), galangal, chestnut tree (extract from the bark of branches), maple, buckthorn (young, branches and leaves, ripe berries), poppy (flowers), madder dye, aspen (fallen leaves), bedstraw, tansy (roots collected in spring or autumn give yellow yarn a red color when boiled with beer), mountain ash (bark). |
|
|
Ledum, oak (bark), spruce (cones), walnut (shell), burdock (roots). |
|
|
Barberry (bark, roots, wood), birch (leaves and young bark), cornflower (stems and leaves), heather, wolfberry (bark), pomegranate (peel), oak (bark, acorns), spruce (cones), nettle, buckthorn (bark, fresh branches), linden (fallen leaves), onion (husk), dandelion, walnut (shell), tansy, wormwood, rhubarb (roots), chamomile (flowers), bearberry, yarrow, tea, succession. |
I offer a table for obtaining some colors, depending on the time of collection, and the method and type of etching:
|
Plants |
collection time |
Fixing (pickling) |
Yarn dyed color |
|
birch, leaves |
first half of summer |
subsequent, potassium dichromate |
Olive |
|
preliminary, alum |
bright yellow | ||
|
Linden, fallen leaves |
|||
|
Maple, fallen leaves |
crimson red |
||
|
Aspen, fallen leaves |
preliminary, blue vitriol |
brown |
|
|
subsequent, potassium dichromate |
|||
| grey | |||
|
Alder, cones |
spring before the leaves appear |
simultaneous, blue vitriol |
brown |
|
subsequent, iron, vitriol |
|||
|
Spruce, needles |
simultaneous, blue vitriol |
||
|
Young fir cones |
simultaneous, alum |
beige, brown |
|
|
Old fir cones |
simultaneous, alum |
||
|
Forest apple tree, fallen leaves |
simultaneous, blue vitriol. |
yellow with brownish |
|
|
preliminary, alum |
Dark red |
||
|
Forest apple tree, fallen leaves |
autumn (late summer) |
subsequent, potassium dichromate |
dark crimson |
|
Bird cherry, ripe berries |
without pickling |
||
|
Overripe cherry berries |
preliminary, blue vitriol |
||
|
pomegranate, peel |
subsequent, blue vitriol |
||
|
Common sorrel, roots, leaves |
simultaneous, potassium dichromate |
cherry |
|
|
Horse sorrel, roots |
preliminary, alum |
||
|
Oregano, grass |
during flowering |
without pickling |
|
|
preliminary, blue vitriol |
|||
|
Wormwood, whole plant |
subsequent, alum |
citric |
|
|
subsequent, potassium dichromate |
|||
|
Ivan tea, flowers |
without pickling |
light red |
|
|
Ivan da Marya, whole plant |
simultaneous, alum |
violet |
|
|
without pickling |
|||
|
Yarrow, whole plant |
first half of summer |
preliminary, blue vitriol |
|
|
subsequent, potassium dichromate |
|||
|
Potatoes, fresh tops |
after cleaning |
simultaneous, iron sulfate |
dark green |
|
Potatoes, tops lying |
after cleaning |
preliminary, iron sulfate |
black, brownish |
|
Cornflower, dry flowers |
during flowering |
simultaneous, iron sulfate |
bluish gray |
|
acid extract |
I bring to your attention several old recipes for dyeing yarn. In these recipes, the amount of dye is indicated per 100 grams of yarn.
Dark beige color.
- Take 200 - 300 g of dry fallen birch leaves.
- Pour cold water into the dishes at the rate of 1 - 2 liters of water per 100 grams of the plant.
- Soak the leaves in this water overnight.
- After a day, boil this infusion for 15 - 20 minutes.
- Strain the decoction into a dish for dyeing yarn.
- Dip in a decoction) and boil for 1 hour over low heat, stirring constantly.
- Then
- Dry the yarn.
Beige color.
- Soak 500 g of dried nettle in water at the rate of 1 - 2 liters of water per 100 g of plant and leave for 3 - 4 hours.
- Prepare a solution: 19 g of alum in 2 liters of water.
- Strain the nettle infusion and warm it up.
- Dip the yarn into the heated nettle infusion and boil it for an hour, stirring it constantly.
- Leave the yarn in the solution until it cools completely.
Yellow color with a beige tint.
- Soak 500 g of wild rosemary branches and soak it for a day
- Strain the infusion and warm it up. If you add 1 teaspoon of salt to the broth, the yarn will turn pink.
- Dip the yarn into the heated solution, and boil it for 4 hours on low heat.
- Leave the yarn in the solution until it cools completely.
- Rinse the yarn thoroughly and dry.
Yellow.
- Pour 250 g of dry fallen birch leaves with 4 liters of water.
- Strain the decoction.
- Dissolve 22 g of alum in 2 liters of water and put the prepared yarn into it (read the article on how to prepare the yarn for dyeing). "Preparing for Yarn Dyeing").
- Boil the yarn in this solution for 30 minutes.
- Transfer the yarn to the broth and, stirring constantly, boil it over low heat for 1 hour.
- Leave the yarn in the solution until it cools completely.
- Rinse the yarn thoroughly in warm water.
- Dry the yarn.
Dark yellow color.
- Prepare a solution at the rate of 15 g of alum per 2 liters of water.
- Boil the prepared yarn in a solution of alum for 30 minutes.
- Pour 800 g of onion peel with water at the rate of 1 - 2 liters of water per 100 g of peel and boil for 3-4 hours.
- Strain the decoction.
- Dip the yarn into the strained broth and boil it for an hour on low heat, stirring constantly.
- Leave the yarn in the solution until it cools completely.
- Rinse the yarn well and dry.
Reddish yellow (orange) color.
- Pour 400 g of dry onion peel with 3-4 liters of water.
- Infuse the husk for 7 hours.
- Strain the infusion and warm it up.
- Prepared wet yarn (read how to prepare yarn for dyeing in the article "Preparing for Yarn Dyeing") dip into a warm solution and boil for 2 hours over low heat, stirring constantly.
- Rinse the yarn thoroughly in warm water.
- Dry the yarn.
Green color.
- Prepare a solution: 15 g of potassium dichromate in 2 liters of water.
- Heat the solution and dip the yarn into it.
- Boil the yarn over low heat for 2 hours.
- Dry the yarn.
- Boil 400 g rosemary for 3-4 hours.
- Strain the decoction and refrigerate.
- Dip the yarn into the chilled broth, heat it up and boil for another 1 hour.
- Leave the yarn in the broth until it cools completely.
- Rinse the yarn thoroughly and dry.
Grayish green color.
- Pour 150 g of dry fallen birch leaves with 3 - 4 liters of water.
- Boil the leaves for 3-4 hours.
- Strain the decoction.
- In this decoction, add 6.5 g of acorns and 1.2 g of ferrous sulfate.
- Boil the acorns for another 15 minutes and then cool slightly.
- Prepared wet yarn (read how to prepare yarn for dyeing in the article "Preparing for Yarn Dyeing") dip into a warm solution and boil for 1 hour over low heat, stirring constantly.
- Rinse the yarn thoroughly in warm water.
- Dry the yarn.
Gray color with a brownish tint.
- Prepare a solution: 15 g of alum in 2 liters of water.
- Boil the yarn in this solution for 30 minutes.
- Boil 400 g of wild rosemary in water for 3-4 hours.
- Strain the decoction.
- Dip the yarn into the broth and simmer for another 1 hour.
- Leave the yarn in the broth until it cools completely.
- Rinse the yarn thoroughly in warm water and dry.
We examined in detail several ways to dye yarn with natural dyes. If you have any questions or want to discuss something, be sure to leave your comment.
You will be interested to see:
Dyes for fabric
If you need to paint a lot of things, it is better to paint one at a time, avoiding overfilling the container. Do not dye fabrics in a washing machine, it will be almost impossible to remove paint from the walls.
Is it possible to dye a knitted item?
It is better to use a basin or other capacious container, for example, a large pot already unnecessary in the household. After chemicals in such dishes, food cannot be cooked.
Other articles:
Sewing a dress with your own hands
How to sew a sun skirt
Pattern of a straight skirt
How to hem a skirt
DIY chair covers
How to sew a hidden zipper
Oh, this variety of colors in needlework stores! And yet, it often turns out that the exact shade that you want is not available. How to get out of this situation?
There are acid dyes. Jacquard products have proven themselves well. Don't be afraid of the word "acid". In fact, there is no acid in the composition of the dyes, you will need to add it in the process. For this, ordinary vinegar is suitable.
Tools and materials for dyeing wool:
- dyes (it is better to take 2-3 shades);
- table vinegar;
- several spray guns, one for each color;
- thick paper newspaper;
- measuring spoon;
- colander;
- pot;
- plastic wrap (you can take a special food or cut the package);
- combed bleached wool.
Let's discuss right away safety precautions for dyeing wool. Wear gloves while coloring, try not to inhale the powder, and keep children out of the way. All utensils and tools that you used are not subject to further domestic use. Be sure to read the instructions on the jar of the product.
First, prepare your workplace. Cover the surface with polyethylene, place a layer of newspapers on it (at least 1 cm). If you do not want to carry out general cleaning, then also wrap all the objects that are nearby with paper. Cover the layer of newspapers again with a film.
Technology for dyeing wool at home:
Before you start dyeing, soak sheep or dog hair in water at room temperature. This will take approximately 10-15 minutes. At this time, you can dilute the dyes. The powder is mixed with warm water. It is better to use disposable dishes and spoons.
Stir thoroughly until the dye is completely dissolved. The amount of the product depends on what color you want to get.
How to dye a sweater
The more powder you add, the darker the shade will be. Pour the finished paint carefully into the sprayer. You can use a funnel to avoid getting dirty.
Add vinegar to the spray bottle. There are no strict guidelines on this, but the ratio of parts of water and acid should be approximately 5:1. You can add liquid at this point if you don't like the color. Mix the contents of the container again. This can be done in 2 ways: either use a stick or shake the closed sprinkler.
Let's get back to wool. Take it out of the bowl and wring it out a little. Lay out the skein so that it fits on the film. Try not to leave holes and gaps, and straighten the fibers if possible.
Use a spray gun to spray paint onto the coat. Try to cover the fibers evenly. There should be enough liquid so that a small puddle forms under the combed tape. Just don't overdo it.
Wrap the wool in a film, tightly covering the edges. Start rolling, squeezing out excess water in the process. The layer of newspapers that you laid at the very beginning will absorb the dye.
Now the wool should be scalded. For this we need boiling water. Put the roll in a colander, and put it in a preheated pan. Keep this design on fire for another 20-30 minutes so that the wool is well steamed. Then turn off the stove and let the fibers cool down.
Rinse the cooled wool thoroughly hot water, wash off excess paint. Do not be afraid to stain the sink, quality products are easily washed off.
After the skein dries, it can be used. Now you have the wool of the original shade in a single copy.
Multiple wash in washing machine, especially with the use of bleaching additives, as well as bright sunlight will reduce the dye fastness of the fabric. Cotton fabrics are especially susceptible to this. Colors fade or fade and turn pale, lose their former brightness.
The best solution to refresh appearance such fabric - to dry-dye such clothes in a dry-cleaner. Dry cleaning uses special durable dyes and uses reliable technology, which guarantees an almost factory-quality dyeing of fabrics.
However, you can also dye old jeans or skeins of yarn at home with the help of special aniline universal dyes intended for domestic use.
Not all fabrics can be dyed at home
Dyeing plain cotton clothes gives you the opportunity to give your wardrobe a new color at no extra cost. Dyeing baby clothes in dark colors can save things that have been badly soiled and doomed to be thrown away.
However, not all types of fabrics can be dyed at home. A number of fabrics with a high content of synthetic fibers cannot be dyed at home with aniline dyes. Even if the color of such fabrics changes, after the first wash, the dye will be washed off and their shade will become an indefinite color.
For dyeing synthetic fiber fabrics, special dyes and special technology (temperature conditions, etc.) are used. At home, only cotton and woolen fabrics can be “confidently” dyed, since the fibers of such fabrics absorb paint well and do not shed much after washing.
If you decide to get a set of trendy colored t-shirts, buy a bag of inexpensive white t-shirts and a set of universal dyes in various colors. White is perfect for conveying the shade and color you want. Any other fabric color will make certain adjustments to the final coloring result. Be prepared for the fact that colored clothes cannot be dyed in the ideal "pure" color indicated on the dye package.
Dyes for fabric
Fabric dyes come in powder or liquid form. Both of these types of dyes can be purchased at hardware stores.
Each package of dye comes with detailed instructions. Be sure to read it carefully before you start dyeing the fabric. The instructions indicate in what proportions to water the paint should be diluted, what is the maximum weight of clothing or fabric, the number of skeins of wool can be dyed with one bag, etc.
For example, consider two types of Russian-made dyes. Aniline dye for fabric "Lukar" is intended for home dyeing of woolen and nylon fabrics, except for lavsan and nitron. This dye can even be used for painting genuine leather and fur. The paint packaging indicates the type of fabric and material that can be dyed, as well as the color and instructions.
Dye for fabrics "Universal" produced by "Tekhnokhim" (St. Petersburg) is suitable for dyeing fabrics made of cotton, linen, viscose. To dye wool or silk fabrics, you need to buy a dye, the packaging of which will say "Dye for wool or silk." There are many manufacturers of dyes, including foreign ones, producing dyes for dyeing certain clothes, fabrics, yarns, etc.
For example, you can buy a dye designed specifically to change color. denim, jeans. By the way, if your jeans not only require a color refresh, but also repair, then read the article "How to sew up a hole in jeans." It discusses ways to restore torn and frayed sections of jeans.
How to dye fabric at home
When dyeing fabrics, be sure to wear plastic or rubber gloves, otherwise you will have to walk with multi-colored palms for more than one day. In addition, dye chemicals can cause irritation, and even skin disease.
Fill the basin with water. You can place it in the bath, but then you will have to work a little, washing it, so it is better to cover the area where the basin will be in advance with a film.
Gradually, in small batches, pour the contents of the sachet into the water, stirring constantly. Do not forget to carefully read the instructions printed on the package first, as each manufacturer may have different proportions of mixing paint with water and staining technology.
If you need to paint a lot of things, it is better to paint one at a time, avoiding overfilling the container. Do not dye fabrics in a washing machine, it will be almost impossible to remove paint from the walls. It is better to use a basin or other capacious container, for example, a large pot already unnecessary in the household. After chemicals in such dishes, food cannot be cooked.
Make sure that the fabric is not stuck together, not folded in folds, otherwise, after dyeing, it will have lighter areas.
If you are going to paint something in one tone, place the thing in a bowl and move it in a circular motion so that the coloring liquid completely saturates the product, otherwise there may be unpainted areas. Keep the product or fabric in the basin, stirring occasionally, until it is slightly darker in color than desired. When completely dry, the fabric will brighten a little.
Some dye solutions need to be heated on the stove in a metal container (basin, saucepan). This should be indicated in the instructions. Make sure that when mixing the paint does not get into the food utensils.
This is how you can dye wool yarn, yarn for machine knitting.
Fabric dyeing at home
The contents of the package (10 gr), designed for 300-500 grams of clean dry wool or fabric, dissolve first in 0.5 liters of warm water (40 degrees). Then strain this coloring concentrate through gauze into an enameled non-food dish and add enough water so that the material to be dyed is completely covered with the dye solution.
The total volume of the dye solution should not exceed three liters. Be sure to add 2-3 tablespoons of vinegar. Dip the pre-soaked products gently into the dye solution and heat for 40 minutes at a temperature of 80-90 degrees over low heat, without boiling. Periodically turn the balls in the container.
Dyed skeins of wool or fabric should be dried in a shaded place, avoiding direct sunlight.
How to dye streaked fabric
In order to obtain variously intersecting light stripes on a darker background after dyeing, twist the thing intended for dyeing into a bundle in such a way as if you were squeezing it out after washing. Then put rubber rings on the tourniquet. Dip the rolled tourniquet into the paint and keep it there until you achieve the desired color. The more rings there are, the more colored spots and stripes you will get as a result.
By mixing two colors together, you end up with a third color. For example, red and blue dye form violet.
And last helpful advice: Freshly dyed fabric tends to shed heavily when washed. The first few times after you have dyed the fabric, wash the garment only by hand, separately from other fabrics. Wash in cool water.
Dyeing fabric at home using aniline and other dyes cannot be as durable and bright as factory-dyed fabric. This is just a way to slightly refresh or darken soiled clothes, change the color and shade of fabric, woolen threads.
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How to paint felt boots
Not for the first season, fashion designers prove that felt boots are relevant, original and very comfortable in our climate. In shoe stores you will find felt boots of any color, but you can buy the simplest felt boots and decorate them yourself, this will be a real exclusive.
hair dye, acrylic paint, wool dye, fabric markers
PG placement sponsor Related articles How to paint felt boots How to repaint a thing How to paint flowers How to remove acrylic paint
You can use hair dye. It should be diluted in cool water.
Also fit acrylic paints, best special for fabric such as for making batik. The paint should be applied with a sponge so that the material is saturated. After drying (1-2 days), iron the felt boots with an iron so that the paint is slightly melted.
You can also purchase wool dye. However, felt requires acid, so it is recommended to add vinegar to the dye solution.
How to dye wool
The paint mixture must be hot. After the felt boots should be washed.
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I want to paint boots!
I want to decorate my boots. I just don’t know what paints, so that they don’t get dirty, hold on for a long time, don’t flow and don’t shed. maybe someone can tell? reluctance to spoil the thing with their experiments. there are paints for patterns (such as for children's creativity), there are batik, there are for painting suede shoes. there is even a la oil gold (well, we can draw a pattern.
Well, buy a dye for wool, that's what it's called.
A 20-gram bag costs no more than a hundred rubles. There should also be instructions on the package: how much to dilute and for what weight the products are designed.
But only felt requires dyes acidic therefore, add vinegar to the coloring solution. And paint in a very hot solution. And then rinse well.
And you can not draw a pattern, but directly pile it on.
Lay out a pattern of dyed wool directly on your svlenok (not in threads, but just wool). And poke this pattern with a needle, thickly, thickly, often, often. The needle will drive the hairs into the finished felt and the pattern will grow into the felt tightly.
Valenki shoes for frost, not for thaw. The sole is hemmed with leather so that it does not get wet, but this is not for urban deep puddles. In general, nothing is better than galoshes in Rus'.
Well, try to buy boots Kotofeich or Finnish, Kuoma.
and if you line it with leather, it seems to me that the felt boots will immediately become slippery.
I didn’t come across wool dye, to be honest. What stores usually sell it? also for creativity and artists?? — Lee Alena
* Skin will of course slip. Here from two evils. But they don't fade as quickly. I just can hardly imagine felted shoes with rubber soles. although what the hell is not joking!
* Well, that's what I called her at home for wool. Best for wool fabrics. In household chemicals should be, but how. Here, I rummaged a little on the Internet:
And I personally would take car paint in cans, make a couple of stencils, well, a dragonfly, there, a butterfly, and details can be made in some places with acrylic, or a special contour is also sold for batik in tubes, it is of different colors, the image will be slightly voluminous.
Interesting. Santa Claus needs to paint felt boots. =)
I saw the contours for batik, they should then be washed off. and the contours for the stained glass, yes, voluminous 🙂 Salamander paint, for example, in a balloon for suede or leather, do you think it’s not an option at all ?? There are also markers for fabric. in general I want to Gzhel. 😉 — Lee Alena
I haven’t come across fabric markers, and leather dye fades from the same leather and suede, I personally wouldn’t use it.
Good luck in your endeavors. =) — ivo
and otpalerui you will have varnished boots))))))))))))
Natural vegetable dyes - how to make, coloring with natural dyes
Natural vegetable dyes
Today, for dyeing wool, thread or any fabric, if you wish and have money, you can buy aniline dye of almost any color. And less and less nowadays they turn with vegetable dyes, with which our ancestors for many centuries successfully colored fabrics (from linen, cotton and other natural fibers) and leather. Although even now, individual vegetable dyes continue to be used in the manufacture of carpets and for dyeing food products. In fact, most plants contain dyes, but only those plants are classified as dyes, the content of dyes in which is sufficiently high, and the latter must provide stable staining.
What plants are advisable to use at home as a starting material for the preparation of natural vegetable dyes? For now, we list only a few of them.
So, sandy color will help to get regular tea, as well as spruce cones. The yellow color will be provided by yellow popovnik, calendula, onion peel, heather, St.
Gray dye contains the bark of oak and alder (black and gray), as well as birch bark. Brown color they will give bast, wild apple leaves, onion peel (high concentration solution), willow bark, mountain ash, aspen, spruce. Green paint is “found” in birch leaves, hay dust, tansy, potato and carrot tops, stems and leaves of tomatoes. Red color will provide the roots of the bedstraw, St. John's wort, celandine, buckthorn bark. Black dye is obtained from sorrel and St. John's wort, black alder bark, reed roots, dried bean stalks left after harvesting.
Usually in the process of dyeing natural vegetable dye fix by adding one or another chemical to it (copper sulfate, vinegar, alum, etc.).
Technology for the preparation of natural vegetable dyes
Now let us dwell in more detail on the technology of preparing coloring solutions from the most common plants. I draw your attention to the fact that the dye solutions, the recipes of which are given below, are designed for dyeing 100 g of yarn. At the same time, for dyeing each 100 g of yarn, it is necessary to have 3 ... 4 liters of solution.
For staining in sandy color, spruce cones (young and old) are used. You will need 1500 g of cones and 20 g of alum (more on the latter later). The cones are finely crushed and boiled for 4 hours. The broth is filtered and alum is dissolved in it. In this solution, the yarn is kept for about 30 minutes at a temperature close to the boiling point. If more is desired dark tone, a little copper sulphate is added to the solution and yarn processing is continued at the same temperature for another half hour.
A bright yellow dye is obtained from fresh leaves. For 500 g of birch leaves take 20 g of alum. Fresh leaves are boiled for 1 hour. Dry leaves are first soaked for a day, after which they are boiled for 3-4 hours. The broth is filtered, yarn is dipped into it and brought almost to a boil. In this mode, the yarn is processed for about 1 hour, stirring the skeins from time to time. Next, add alum to the solution and continue the "heat treatment" for another 30 minutes.
onion peel
To prepare orange dye, 400 g of husks are soaked for 7 hours. Then the liquid is filtered and the yarn is immersed in it, where the latter is kept for 2 hours, stirring occasionally, at a temperature as close as possible to the boiling point. To get a dark yellow color, you need twice as much onion peel (800 g), and you will also need alum (15 g). Onion broth is boiled for 3-4 hours, filtered, alum and yarn are put into it. Dyeing is carried out for about 1 hour at a temperature close to the boiling point.
Ledum marsh
Based on this plant, it is possible to obtain coloring solutions of different colors. For example, in order to dye the yarn in a sandy color, 500 g of marsh rosemary branches are soaked for a day. Then the infusion is heated almost to the boiling point, skeins of yarn are lowered into it and kept there for 4 hours, maintaining the same temperature. If 1 teaspoon of salt is added to this decoction, the yarn will turn scarlet.
To create green paint, take 400 g of wild rosemary and 15 g of potassium dichromate. The skeins of yarn are first kept for 2 hours in a solution of the latter at a temperature close to the boiling point, then dried. The wild rosemary itself is boiled for 3-4 hours, the dried yarn is lowered into the cooled solution, the solution is brought to a boil, after which this temperature is maintained for about an hour. Then the solution is cooled, the yarn is taken out, rinsed in clean water and dried. Gray-brown color will provide yarn with 400 g of marsh rosemary and 15 g of alum. The yarn is first dipped in a solution of alum and brought to a boil (but not allowed to boil). Processing yarn in the solution lasts half an hour. Ledum is boiled for 3-4 hours, after which the broth is filtered and yarn is put into it, the broth is brought to a boil, maintaining a similar regimen for 1 hour.
Nettle deaf
Nettle dyes the yarn in a pleasant sandy color. For 500 g of dried nettle, 19 g of alum will be needed. First, alum is dissolved in water and the yarn is “treated” for some time in a solution heated almost to boiling. Nettles are soaked for 3-4 hours, boiled, the broth is filtered and yarn pre-treated with alum is put into it. Bring the broth to a boil and continue dyeing the yarn at this temperature for 1 hour. Then the broth with yarn is cooled, the yarn is rinsed and dried.
The collection of dye plants is carried out at a time when the "coloring" parts of the plants contain more dye. For example, leaves are harvested in the spring (after they are fully opened), flowers - immediately after the buds open. The roots are dug up either in spring (shortly before flowering plants) or in autumn. Many plants retain optimal coloring abilities all summer (stems and leaves of tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, sorrel, celandine, St. John's wort, cuff).
Plants are harvested in dry weather and dried in the shade in a draft.
Wool coloring at home
Dried plants are crushed and stored in a dry place in cloth or plastic bags.
As the fixers mentioned above, when dyeing, aluminum or potassium chromium alum (crystal hydrates of double sulfate salts), copper sulfate and iron sulfate are used.
Alum is a white powder, they are used when painting in "light" colors (yellow, gray, scarlet). Copper sulphate, the crystals of which have a blue-green color, serves to obtain dark: yellow, green and brown. Iron sulphate (yellow-green crystals) is used as a fixative for brown, green or red-brick paints.
Salt is also a fixative, which is necessary when dyeing cotton fabrics. The presence of salt when dyeing wool is not necessary. But vinegar as a fixative is used when dyeing fabrics, threads, yarn of one kind or another. Usually products dyed with natural vegetable dyes do not shed. But it happens that in the sun their color fades. By the way, the color may change when washing dyed products. washing powder especially when washing in hot water. For example, in this case Blue colour may change to khaki. When washed with soap, the color of the woolen dyed products remains unchanged.
Generalized information about dye plants and the features of their use are given in the table.
Plants used in dyeing, timing of their collection, fixatives used, resulting colors
| The plant and its coloring part | Collection time | Applied fixatives | Received color |
|---|---|---|---|
| birch (leaves) | First half of summer | Potassium dichromate (after dyeing) | Olive |
| Linden (fallen leaves) | Autumn | Copper sulfate (before dyeing) | Yellow |
| Maple (fallen leaves) | Autumn | Dark red | |
| Aspen (fallen leaves) | Autumn | Copper sulfate (before dyeing) Potassium dichromate (after dyeing) Ferrous sulfate (before and after dyeing) |
Brown |
| Aspen (earrings) | Spring (before leaves bloom) | Ferrous sulfate (after dyeing) |
Brown |
| Spruce (needles, young and old cones) | Spring | Copper sulfate (before and after dyeing) Alum (before and after dyeing) |
Green Sand, brown, yellow |
| Wild apple tree (fallen leaves) | Autumn | Copper sulfate (before and after dyeing) Potassium bichromate (before dyeing) |
Yellow with brown tint dark raspberry |
| Bird cherry (ripe and overripe berries) | Summer | Without fixer Copper sulfate (before dyeing) |
Red |
| Pomegranate (peel) | Autumn | Copper sulfate (after dyeing) | Black with brown tint |
| Sorrel (roots, leaves) | Spring | Alum (before dyeing) | Yellow |
| Oregano (upper part of the plant) | When flowering | Without fixer Copper sulfate (before dyeing) Potassium bichromate (after dyeing) |
Scarlet |
| Potato (top of plant) | After cleaning | Ferrous sulfate (before and after dyeing) Ferrous sulfate (before dyeing) |
dark green Black with brown tint |
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