The whole truth about hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid - properties and biological role, the use of hyaluronic acid preparations in medicine and cosmetology, reviews What hyaluronic acid is capable of
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Hyaluronic acid is a polymer molecule consisting of small compounds of carbohydrate structure. This compound was discovered about 75 years ago, and is still being intensively studied by chemists, biologists, pharmacists, doctors and scientists of other medical and biological specialties. The physical properties of hyaluronic acid are unique - it is able to retain water molecules, forming a gel-like structure, and in addition, this compound is involved in many important processes in the human and animal body, such as cell division and migration, gene switching, wound healing, fertilization, growth and development of the fetus, the formation of malignant tumors, etc.Currently, hyaluronic acid is widely used in aesthetic medicine (included in cosmetic products, such as creams, masks, and others, and is also used for biorevitalization procedures and other manipulations aimed at slowing down the aging process and maintaining tissue youth). In addition to the aesthetic field, hyaluronic acid is widely used in medical practice, for example, in the treatment of diseases of the eyes and joints, in the complex therapy of malignant tumors, in wound healing and in immunology. Consider the properties and use of hyaluronic acid in various fields (both aesthetic and medical).
Hyaluronic acid - general characteristics, properties and methods of obtaining
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide, which means that its molecule consists of many identical small fragments, which in their structure are carbohydrates (simple saccharides). Simple sugars are connected in a chain and form a long molecule of hyaluronic acid. Depending on the number of fragments that make up the hyaluronic acid molecule, it can have a different mass and length. Based on the mass of the molecule, two types of hyaluronic acid are distinguished - macromolecular and low molecular weight. High-molecular varieties of hyaluronic acid are molecules with a mass of more than 300 kDa. All hyaluronic acid molecules with a mass of less than 300 kDa are low molecular weight. Both varieties of matter have a number of identical properties, but at the same time some others physical properties and the biological role of high molecular weight and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids are different.
So, both high-molecular and low-molecular hyaluronic acid are able to bind and retain water molecules, forming a jelly-like mass. This jelly-like mass has a certain viscosity, which allows it to act as an ideal substrate for any fluids and lubricants in the body (for example, saliva, vaginal and joint lubricants, amniotic fluid etc.), as well as for the extracellular matrix, in which biochemical reactions take place and other important processes take place. The degree of viscosity of the jelly-like mass formed by hyaluronic acid depends on its mass. The greater the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid molecule, the more viscous will be the jelly-like mass formed by it in combination with water.
The extracellular matrix, formed by a jelly-like mass of water held by hyaluronic acid, is a unique environment that connects the cells of organs and systems to each other, as well as ensuring their interaction. Cells and biologically active substances move along the intercellular matrix, having entered it from the blood vessels. It is thanks to the jelly-like viscous matrix that various substances can reach each cell of an organ or tissue, even if a blood vessel does not pass next to it. That is, any substance or cell leaves the blood vessel into the extracellular matrix and passes through it to the cellular structures that lie deep in the tissues and do not come into contact with the blood vessels.
In addition, the waste products of cells, toxins of viruses and bacteria, as well as dead cell structures are removed from organs and tissues through the extracellular matrix. First, they enter the intercellular substance, then move along it towards the lymphatic or blood vessels, reaching which they penetrate into them and are finally eliminated from the body. Such movement between cells in the intercellular matrix is possible precisely due to its jelly-like consistency provided by hyaluronic acid.
In addition, hyaluronic acid is a necessary component of intra-articular lubrication and eye fluid, and is also part of the dermis and connective tissue. This compound imparts viscosity to the intra-articular lubrication and ocular fluid, ensuring their optimal properties. In the dermis, hyaluronic acid keeps collagen and elastin fibers in the correct position, thereby maintaining turgor, elasticity and youthfulness of the skin. In addition, due to the binding of water, hyaluronic acid provides the optimal amount of moisture in the skin, which also prevents aging and the appearance of wrinkles. In the connective tissue, hyaluronic acid also provides its turgor, elasticity, extensibility and sufficient moisture.
With a lack of hyaluronic acid, the tissues dry out due to a lack of water, which is not retained in them. As a result, tissues become thinner, brittle, inelastic and break easily, which leads to their aging and the development of various diseases. Also, hyaluronic acid is involved in a number of very important processes, such as cell migration and reproduction, gene switching, conception and subsequent growth of the fetus, the formation of malignant tumors, the development of an immune response, etc. Thus, it is simply impossible to overestimate the properties of hyaluronic acid necessary for the normal functioning of organs and tissues at the cellular level.
In a human body with a body weight of 70 kg, there is always about 15 grams of hyaluronic acid. Moreover, every day, approximately 1/3 of the total amount of hyaluronic acid found in various organs and tissues is broken down and utilized, and new molecules are formed instead. The half-life of hyaluronic acid molecules in the joint lubricant ranges from 1 to 30 weeks, in the epidermis and dermis - 1 - 2 days, and in the blood - a few minutes. With age, the body loses the ability to synthesize hyaluronic acid in the required amount, as a result of which the aging process begins. That is why, in order to slow down aging, people of mature age need to receive hyaluronic acid from the outside, with food or with biologically active additives (BAA).
For use in medicine and the aesthetic industry, hyaluronic acid is produced on an industrial scale from two types of raw materials:
1.
Vertebrate tissues;
2.
Bacteria that form a protective capsule of hyaluronic acid molecules (for example, hemolytic streptococci types A and B).
To obtain hyaluronic acid, the following tissues of vertebrates are most often used, which contain the largest amounts of this substance:
- Combs of roosters;
- vitreous body of the eye;
- Synovial fluid of the joints;
- hyaline cartilage;
- umbilical cord;
- Epidermis and dermis of the skin;
- amniotic fluid.
Bacteria for the production of hyaluronic acid are used as follows - the required strain is placed on a nutrient medium and provided with ideal conditions for reproduction. When the nutrient medium becomes viscous, this means that the bacteria have produced a sufficiently large amount of hyaluronic acid, which only needs to be isolated and cleaned of impurities.
Hyaluronic acid, isolated from animal raw materials and bacteria, has a significant drawback - it contains impurities of proteins and peptides that cannot be completely removed even after special treatment. These proteins and peptides can provoke allergic reactions in humans, which narrows the scope of hyaluronic acid.
Ready-made hyaluronic acid is produced by pharmaceutical plants in the form of powders and granules containing molecules with different masses. These powders are used to prepare solutions, which are then added to the composition of creams, masks, medicines etc. Before use, ready-made solutions of hyaluronic acid are sterilized in autoclaves.
The biological role of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide with a high degree of hydration (bound to water) and is part of the intercellular matrix, due to which it has very diverse functions and takes part in the processes of reproduction, migration, recognition and differentiation of cells of various organs and tissues.Depending on the number and size of hyaluronic acid molecules, gels of varying degrees of viscosity are formed in the intercellular matrix, which further determine the properties and functions of tissues, organs, and systems. Thus, gels formed by hyaluronic acid determine the amount of water in the tissue, the intensity of ion exchange in cells (potassium, sodium, magnesium, zinc, etc.), the rate of transport of various biologically active substances and toxins, the impermeability of the medium for large molecules and cells, and etc.
The ability of hyaluronic acid to make any part of the gel medium of the intercellular matrix impenetrable to large molecules provides tissues with protection from toxins and the penetration of microbes (bacteria, protozoa and fungi).
The retention of a large amount of water by hyaluronic acid creates the effects of incompressibility and swelling, on the basis of which an effective resistance to various mechanical influences aimed at squeezing tissues and organs is realized. Thanks to this, organs and tissues retain their shape and are not susceptible to compression, and, consequently, traumatization. It is thanks to this effect of hyaluronic acid that we can, for example, squeeze the skin with our fingers without damaging its structures.
The viscosity of the joint fluid created by hyaluronic acid allows it to act as a lubricant for the rubbing cartilage surfaces of the two articulating bones, as well as reduce the negative effects of excessive pressure.
It is the aqueous solution of hyaluronic acid that is the filler of the vitreous body of the eye, as well as an integral part of other structures of this organ. Hyaluronic acid is very important for the normal functioning of the eye, since its solutions are transparent and stable, which creates the necessary environment for the passage of a beam of light to the retina without any distortion.
Hyaluronic acid plays a huge role in the fertilization of the egg. The fact is that leaving the ovary during ovulation, the egg is covered with two structures that protect it, which are called the brilliant shell (zonapellucida) and the radiant crown (coronaradiata). Both the zona pellucida and the radiant crown in the intercellular matrix contain a large amount of hyaluronic acid, thanks to which they, in fact, exist. The ovum is capable of fertilization only as long as its radiant crown and zona pellucida are completely intact. As soon as the radiant crown collapses in the fallopian tube, the egg will lose its ability to fertilize and die. Thus, with a lack of hyaluronic acid in the body, even healthy and full-fledged eggs can be useless, because they quickly die in the fallopian tube, being incapable of fertilization by spermatozoa.
In addition, after fertilization, the remnants of the zona pellucida with hyaluronic acid prevent the already fertilized egg from sticking to the walls of the fallopian tube, which is a mechanism for preventing ectopic pregnancy.
Hyaluronic acid also plays a huge role in the subsequent growth of the fetus after fertilization. The fact is that whole molecules and fragments of hyaluronic acid start the process of division, migration and maturation of cells in the fetal egg, as well as the formation of organs and systems from them.
Inside cells, hyaluronic acid takes part in the division process, that is, it is necessary for reproduction and the formation of new cellular elements to replace old or damaged ones. Thanks to this effect, hyaluronic acid stimulates the process of repairing damage in organs and tissues. For example, in case of bone fractures, it is hyaluronic acid that stimulates the rapid fusion of fragments. Stimulation of repair processes occurs not only due to the activation of cell division, but also due to the ability of hyaluronic acid to activate the growth of blood vessels, which are necessary for the newly formed tissue. Unfortunately, the ability of hyaluronic acid to stimulate the growth of blood vessels can also play a negative role, for example, in the growth of a malignant tumor. After all, the faster new vessels are formed that feed the tumor, the faster it increases in size, and the sooner it gives metastases.
Also, hyaluronic acid is a component of innate immunity, which every person has from the moment of birth. In the skin and connective tissue, hyaluronic acid performs a number of very important functions due to the fact that it maintains collagen and elastin threads in a normal position and condition. Thus, this molecule protects the skin, preventing the penetration of pathogenic microbes from its surface into the depths in the presence of damage (wounds, scratches, etc.). In addition, hyaluronic acid maintains the hydrobalance of the dermis and epidermis, reducing water evaporation and at the same time helping to attract and retain moisture from the air on the skin surface. Thanks to these properties, hyaluronic acid moisturizes the skin, and also makes it smooth and elastic, preventing damage, thinning and drying, and thus slowing down aging.
Summarizing the above, we can conclude that All varieties of hyaluronic acid have the following properties:
- Maintains and restores the normal degree of hydration (moisture) of the skin;
- Improves the elasticity of tissues, including skin;
- Normalizes the tone of tissues, including skin;
- Improves microcirculation;
- Accelerates the process of cell renewal in all tissues, including the skin;
- Stops inflammation and eliminates swelling of the skin.
Low molecular weight varieties of hyaluronic acid, having a mass of less than 30 kDa, have the following properties:
- Pass through the barriers formed by cell membranes, as a result of which they can penetrate from the surface of the skin into the deep layers of the dermis;
- Stimulate the growth of lymphatic and blood vessels;
- Improve microcirculation and skin nutrition.
- Accelerate wound healing;
- Stimulate cell division;
- Accelerate cell migration into the wound.
- Suppress the division and migration of cells to the area of damage;
- Do not penetrate from the surface of the skin into the deeper layers;
- Suppress the growth of lymphatic and blood vessels;
- Stop inflammation;
- Prevent cartilage destruction.
Areas of application of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is widely used in the aesthetic and applied medicine fields such as ophthalmology, arthrology, oncology, wound healing and immunology. Consider the ways of using hyaluronic acid in various fields.Hyaluronic acid in the aesthetic field
Modern aesthetic medicine and cosmetology cannot be imagined without hyaluronic acid, since it is used very widely. So, in cosmetology, hyaluronic acid is part of various creams, serums, masks, gels and other products designed to moisturize, rejuvenate or reduce the severity of age-related changes skin cover.In aesthetic medicine, hyaluronic acid is the most popular agent used for skin rejuvenation, as well as the elimination of age-related changes and “minus-tissue” defects that have arisen after surgical interventions. Hyaluronic acid is used in injectable rejuvenation techniques, such as implantation of fillers, biorevitalization and mesotherapy. The widespread use of this compound in injection methods of aesthetic medicine is due to a number of factors: firstly, the introduction of hyaluronic acid into the skin is safe, since allergic reactions to the drug do not occur; secondly, the implant from a long hyaluronic molecule is preserved long time, that is, the effect of the performed procedure lasts from 1 to 1.5 years. Finally, hyaluronic acid injections are easy to produce and painless.
Thus, it is clear that hyaluronic acid is a very important component of modern cosmetics and a necessary substance for a number of methods of non-surgical skin rejuvenation. Let's take a closer look at how hyaluronic acid is used in cosmetic products and used in non-surgical skin rejuvenation methods.
Hyaluronic acid injections (hyaluronic acid shots)
The general name "hyaluronic acid injections" usually means several methods of non-surgical skin rejuvenation and elimination of the severity of its age-related changes, which are united by the common essence of their production - the introduction of "hyaluronic acid" preparations into the skin structures by injection (injection). That is, hyaluronic acid is injected into the skin by injection with a conventional syringe or a special roller. After injections of hyaluronic acid produced by any method, human skin is smoothed, wrinkles either completely disappear or become less pronounced, turgor appears and flabbiness is eliminated, and the degree of moisture in the skin structures increases. After all, skin aging, the appearance of wrinkles, flabbiness, dryness and dullness are caused precisely by a deficiency or decrease in the amount of hyaluronic acid in the deep layers of the skin, and therefore its management is effective way rejuvenation and elimination of dryness. The methods, united by the common name "hyaluronic acid injections", include the following procedures:
- Biorevitalization;
- bioreparation;
- Contour plastic with fillers.
So, mesotherapy produced according to the principle "rarely, little, in the right place." That is, hyaluronic acid is injected in small amounts only in those areas that need correction (for example, in the area of wrinkles, etc.). In addition, the principle "rarely" means that injections are made once every few days. Mesotherapy has a cumulative effect due to the fact that hyaluronic acid is administered in small quantities, and therefore, in order to obtain good result it is necessary to make several injections in the same area. The effect of mesotherapy persists for several months.
Biorevitalization is performed using the same injection techniques (papular, tracer, canal) as mesotherapy, but large amounts of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid are used. Therefore, biorevitalization is performed at a time. This procedure gives immediate and delayed results. Immediate results are the smoothing of wrinkles, which is noticeable immediately after the procedure. However, this immediate effect lasts for about 1 to 2 weeks, after which it disappears. Further, the hyaluronic acid introduced into the skin is destroyed by special enzymes, and short fragmented molecules are formed. These molecules stimulate the production of their own hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin, which is the main goal of the biorevitalization procedure, since this process results in skin restoration and rejuvenation. It is the restoration of aging skin structures that is a long-term result of biorevitalization, which is manifested by an improvement in tone, the disappearance of sagging, a decrease in the number and depth of wrinkles. Long-term results of biorevitalization persist for 1 - 1.5 years.
Bioreparation is a procedure similar to biorevitalization. However, bioreparation differs from biorevitalization in that complex preparations are used for its production, containing, in addition to hyaluronic acid, vitamins, minerals and other biologically active substances. As a result of the introduction of hyaluronic acid, vitamins and minerals into the skin structures, a long-lasting and pronounced effect of rejuvenation is achieved, and small irregularities and defects of the skin (for example, scars, acne marks, etc.) are eliminated.
Contour plastic with fillers is the introduction of special long threads of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid sewn together into certain areas of the skin that require correction. These threads are called fillers and are located on problem areas. Thanks to the introduction of fillers, it is possible to correct the line of the cheekbones, the oval of the face, eliminate bags under the eyes, etc.
All methods of hyaluronic acid injections are performed under local anesthesia, so the procedures themselves are painless. However, after the effect of the local anesthetic wears off, there may be mild pain within 2 - 4 days, as well as the preservation of edema and redness on the skin.
Lip augmentation with hyaluronic acid
This procedure is a private variant of hyaluronic acid injections, which are performed in the lip contour area. When hyaluronic acid in the form of fillers is injected into the lips, it fills the tissues and attracts water, which leads to an increase in their volume, and also makes the contour clearer and more beautiful. As a result, the lips become fuller, plump and smooth with a clear contour, and also acquire a juicy color. The result achieved lasts approximately 8-18 months. During the procedure, a small amount of hyaluronic acid is injected into the lips by point injections. Depending on the amount of hyaluronic acid injected, the volume of the lips can be increased moderately or significantly. The more hyaluronic acid is injected, the more the volume of the lips will increase.
The procedure itself lasts half an hour and is performed under local anesthesia, and the full result is formed in two days. After lip augmentation with hyaluronic acid, swelling, redness and pain, which then completely disappear.
Hyaluronic acid under the eyes
Hyaluronic acid can be used to eliminate wrinkles and dark circles under the eyes, as well as to give thin skin this area of elasticity, elasticity and increase the degree of its moisture content. Hyaluronic acid under the eyes can be used both in the form of injections and as part of special creams, serums, gels or mousses containing it as an active ingredient.Indications and contraindications for injections of hyaluronic acid (including for the purpose of lip augmentation)
Hyaluronic acid injections by various methods are indicated in the following cases:- Dry and dehydrated skin;
- Loose skin on the face, abdomen, thighs, and shoulders;
- Wrinkles in the eye area, oval face and décolleté;
- Circles under the eyes;
- Dull and unhealthy complexion;
- Enlarged pores on the skin of the face;
- Increased production of sebum;
- Face oval lift;
- Improvement of the cheekbone line;
- Elimination of wrinkles;
- Increasing the amount of moisture in the skin;
- Increased elasticity and turgor of the skin;
- Normalization of the skin relief;
- Increase volume and improve the contour of the lips.
- Intolerance or allergic reactions to hyaluronic acid;
- During pregnancy and breastfeeding ;
- Acute period of any acute and infectious diseases;
- autoimmune diseases;
- Connective tissue pathology;
- malignant tumors;
- Hypertonic disease;
- Tendency to scarring of the skin;
- Diabetic angiopathy;
- blood clotting disorders;
- The presence of inflammation or moles in the area of the proposed injections;
- Skin diseases;
- Taking drugs that affect blood clotting (anticoagulants, antiplatelet agents, etc.).
Preparations for hyaluronic acid injections
Currently, for injections of hyaluronic acid, a variety of preparations produced in different countries and designed for different purposes. In the table below, we provide a list of the main high-quality certified hyaluronic acid preparations, indicating the indications for their use and the duration of the effect achieved.| Hyaluronic acid preparation | Indications for the use of the drug | Duration of the achieved effect |
| Varioderm | Correction of averages and deep wrinkles Lip contour correction | 6 – 12 months |
| Varioderm Fineline | Elimination of superficial wrinkles Crow's feet correction Correction of the red border of the lips | 6 – 12 months |
| Varioderm Plus | Deep Wrinkle Correction Facial oval correction | 6 – 12 months |
| Varioderm Subdermal | Correction of very deep wrinkles Increasing tissue volume | 6 – 12 months |
| Hylaform (Hylan-B age) | Lip shape correction | 12 months |
| Hyalite (Puragen) | Lip shape correction Elimination of nasolabial folds | 12 months |
| Teosyal Global Action | Correction of medium wrinkles | 12 months |
| Teosyal Deep Lines | Correction of deep wrinkles and skin folds | 12 months |
| Teosyal Kiss | Correction of the volume and contour of the lips | 12 months |
| Prevelle | 3 – 6 months | |
| Captique | Correction of fine and medium wrinkles | 3 – 6 months |
| Repleri | Correction of medium and deep wrinkles | 12 – 18 months |
| Juvederm Ultra | 6 – 8 months | |
| Juvederm Ultra Plus | Correction of medium or deep wrinkles and folds | 6 – 12 months |
| Sirgiderm 18 | Correction of fine wrinkles | 6 months |
| Sirgiderm 30 | Elimination of deep skin depression Replenishment of tissue volume deficiency | 9 months |
| Sirgiderm 24 XP | Elimination of moderate skin depression Lip contour correction | 9 months |
| Sirgiderm 30 XP | Elimination of deep and moderate skin depression Replenishment of tissue volume deficiency Correction of the contour and shape of the lips | 9 months |
| Belotero Basic | Scar removal Correction of deep and medium wrinkles or furrows Facial contouring Volume increase and lip contour correction | 6 – 9 months |
| Belotero Soft | Correction of fine superficial wrinkles | 6 – 9 months |
| Jolidermis 24+ | Correction of deep mimic wrinkles Correction and restoration of the contour of the lips | 6 – 9 months |
| Jolidermis 24 | Correction of medium and deep mimic wrinkles | 6 – 9 months |
| Jolidermis 18 | Correction of fine wrinkles | 6 – 9 months |
| Restylane | Correction of moderate wrinkles | 6 – 12 months |
| Restylane Lipp | Lip augmentation Correction of the red border of the lips | 6 – 12 months |
| Restylane Perlane | Deep crease correction Facial oval correction | 6 – 12 months |
| Restylane SubQ | Elimination of age-related tissue volume deficit Elimination of soft tissue asymmetry | 12 – 18 months |
| Restylane Touch | Correction of very fine wrinkles (including in the area of the orbit of the eye and mouth) | 6 months |
| Eugulon V | Correction of fine and deep wrinkles and post-acne | 6 months |
| Hyaluform | Correction of fine wrinkles | 6 – 7 months |
| Hyaluform 1.8% | Correction of medium wrinkles and folds | 8 – 9 months |
| Hyaluform 2.5% | Elimination of tissue volume deficiency | 6 – 8 months |
| Hyalripier-0.1 | Correction of fine and deep wrinkles | 10 – 14 months |
Hyaluronic acid before and after - photo
This photo shows the effect achieved by injections of hyaluronic acid produced by the biorevitalization method.
This photo shows the effect of hyaluronic acid injections with Restilane.
Lips after hyaluronic acid - photo
This photo shows the effect of lip augmentation with hyaluronic acid.
Cream, serum and masks with hyaluronic acid
Various creams, masks, serums and other cosmetic products with hyaluronic acid are intended for external use to moisturize the skin, as well as reduce the severity of age-related changes. Cosmetics with hyaluronic acid tighten the skin, reduce its sagging, rosacea and the size of enlarged pores, as well as even out the complexion and improve the relief of the skin. However, in order to get a visible effect from cosmetic products with hyaluronic acid, they must be used regularly for at least a month.When choosing a cosmetic product, you need to focus on the quantity and quality of hyaluronic acid in it. Thus, serums contain the highest concentration of hyaluronic acid, therefore, these cosmetic products are recommended to be chosen for skin care in poor condition, as well as to obtain the maximum quick effect. Serums with hyaluronic acid are recommended to be used at the initial stage, and then switch to the use of creams with hyaluronic acid.
Creams may contain high molecular weight or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. High-molecular hyaluronic acid in creams covers the skin with an invisible film, from which it is absorbed into the upper layers of the epidermis, making it moisturized, toned, with an even and radiant color. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is able to be absorbed from the surface into the deep layers of the skin, in which it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, which leads to a more pronounced and lasting effect. However, creams containing low molecular weight hyaluronic acid are much more expensive than cosmetic products with a high molecular weight form of "hyaluronic acid". Therefore, to correct superficial age-related changes, it is optimal to use creams with high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Accordingly, to correct and reduce the severity of deep age-related changes, it is necessary to use creams with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
Masks with hyaluronic acid are applied according to the same principles as creams. Creams and serums can be used daily, and masks - 1 - 2 times a week. All products with hyaluronic acid should be used only at positive temperatures, because in the cold its molecules crystallize and can injure the skin. Therefore, in winter, it is recommended to apply products with hyaluronic acid only in the evening, when it is no longer planned to go outside.
However, it must be remembered that cosmetic products with hyaluronic acid are not recommended for people under 25 years of age, as this can provoke the opposite effect. The fact is that in young women, the skin itself produces a sufficient amount of hyaluronic acid and does not need intensive care, and therefore the constant supply of this substance from the outside can lead to the fact that the skin will stop producing it. As a result, there will premature aging skin.
Currently, creams, serums, masks and other cosmetics are produced by many companies, so purchasing them is not a problem. Some of the best hyaluronic acid cosmetic products are creams, masks, mousses and serums produced by European, Asian and American companies.
Hyaluronic acid preparations for facial skin: application (injection), effects, possible complications, recommendations of a dermatocosmetologist - video
Creams and injections with hyaluronic acid: how they work, in what cases they are used - video
Creams for moisturizing dry skin: with hyaluronic acid, with film-forming substances, with hydroxy acids - video
What is the difference between the effects of cream, serum and hyaluronic acid injections (beautician's answer) - video
Hyaluronic acid for joints
Healthy joints necessarily contain a small amount of fluid, which acts as a lubricant. This liquid contains hyaluronic acid, which gives it the necessary properties. With various diseases of the joints, the concentration of hyaluronic acid in the joint fluid decreases by 2-4 times. Therefore, at present, a method for the treatment of joint diseases is successfully used, which consists in the introduction of high-molecular hyaluronic acid into its cavity.With the introduction of hyaluronic acid into the joint with osteoarthritis, the pain syndrome is stopped and its functional activity improves, which allows a person to move normally and lead a normal lifestyle. In addition, the use of hyaluronic acid restores the properties of the intra-articular fluid, suppresses the inflammatory process and stimulates the restoration of normal tissue structure.
Currently, the following hyaluronic acid preparations are used for diseases of the joints:
- Viscorneal forto;
- Viskosil;
- Sinvisk (Gylan G-F 20);
- Synocrom;
- Suplazin;
- Ostenil.
Hyaluronic acid in ophthalmology
Hyaluronic acid preparations are widely used in the local and systemic treatment of eye diseases. So, hyaluronic acid is part of the "artificial tear" eye drops, intended for the treatment of corneal dryness. Also, "hyaluron" is used for surgical operations on the eyes in order to create an optimal operating environment and protect tissues from accidental damage. Hyaluronic acid in wound healing
Hyaluronic acid suppresses the inflammatory process and activates the processes of restoring the normal structure of tissues, due to which it is successfully used in the healing of wounds, burns and trophic ulcers. For wound healing, hyaluronic acid is injected into a special dressing material, which is used to cover various skin lesions, and the dressings are periodically changed.Bioexplants with hyaluronic acid (thin film) are used to cover sutures on the intestine after surgical interventions, which significantly accelerates wound healing and tissue repair. In addition, bioexplants with hyaluronic acid are used during laparoscopic operations to cover intestinal loops in order to prevent their accidental injury.
Hyaluronic acid - reviews
Most reviews of hyaluronic acid (from 85 to 90%) in cosmetics are positive, due to the visible aesthetic effect. The reviews indicate that salon procedures with hyaluronic acid very effectively moisturize the skin, make it smoother and more elastic, as a result of which fine wrinkles are smoothed out, and new ones are not formed. In addition, many reviews indicate that the use of creams with hyaluronic acid leads to the same effect as salon procedures, but only more slowly. If the effect of salon procedure noticeable immediately, then when using creams or masks, it appears only after a month.Hyaluronic acid is the main "moisturizer" and probably the most popular inhabitant of our cosmetic jars. Everyone knows about hyaluron. Very often it can be found in anti-age products.
In this post, we will talk about what hyaluronic acid is, what its chips are, why it is added to cosmetics, and how it works there.
Who is the "hyaluron"
In a series of posts about the structure of the skin, we described in detail that its middle layer (dermis) is like a water-spring mattress. The “springs” are collagen and elastin fibers, and the “stuffing” is a gel of glycosaminoglycans.
Glycosaminoglycans are made up of carbohydrates and proteins. They are also called polysaccharides. Glycosaminoglycans are excellent at retaining moisture.
The main glycosaminoglycan of the dermis is hyaluronic acid, or "hyaluron". That is, "hyaluron" is sugar (yum ☺).
Almost 50% of the hyaluronic acid in our body is found in the skin. The remaining half is in ligaments, tendons, cartilage, the vitreous body of the eye, nerves and hair. In the body of an average person weighing 70 kg, about 15 grams of “hyaluron” “live”, 1/3 of which is destroyed and synthesized anew every day.
Functions of hyaluronic acid
It is like a "cement" that holds cells together, regulates their metabolism, supports collagen synthesis, moisturizes the skin, ensures its elasticity and healthy shine.
Main feature
Hyaluronic acid for the skin is a water balance regulator.
It is made up of very large molecules that form a network of cells. Thanks to this structure and the size of the hyaluronic molecules, it works like a “super sponge”. It attracts a huge amount of water (up to 1000 times its weight) and keeps its molecules in the cells of the network (as in a "hyaluronic prison").
As a result, a gel is formed. It is he who forms the elasticity of the skin.
"Hyaluronka" is able to assess the level of humidity, adapt to it and regulate the amount of absorbed moisture depending on the climate and season.
"Hyaluronka" and age
Hyaluronic acid molecules (as well as collagen and elastin molecules) are continuously synthesized in the skin by the main cells of the dermis - fibroblasts.
And just like collagen and elastin, "hyaluron" is destroyed under the influence of certain enzymes (hyaluronidases). With age, this process intensifies. As a result, the skin becomes drier, loses elasticity and tone, begins to sag and wrinkles form faster.
The synthesis of hyaluronic acid gradually decreases from the age of 20. Its deficiency becomes especially noticeable after 30-40 years.
What else destroys hyaluronic acid
Summarize
Hyaluronic acid is one of the main components of our skin and a regulator of its water balance. "Hyaluronka" perfectly moisturizes, this is its main value.
In the skin there is a continuous process of synthesis and destruction of hyaluronic acid. With age, as well as with excessive exposure to the sun, smoking and malnutrition, the amount of "hyaluron" is inexorably reduced.
Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics can be high and low molecular weight. High molecular weight does not penetrate on its own and is used in injection fillers. Low molecular weight penetrates the skin and is used in creams, masks and serums. It includes hydrolyzed, mini, nano-hyaluronic acid, as well as sodium hyaluronate.
To answer the question of whether hyaluronic acid works in cosmetics, you need to understand what exactly we expect from it. "Hyaluronka" in any form perfectly moisturizes, promotes regeneration and increases skin protection from external influences.
If you are looking for a product for high-quality skin hydration, hyaluronic acid is definitely your product. Just don't waste your money on rinse-off cleansers, buy a good cream instead.
Concerning wrinkle smoothing, then and here - hyaluronic acid works and does the job well. The main thing to understand is that the effect of filling wrinkles is temporary, it cannot be eternal. In order for the result to be preserved, it is necessary to use products with hyaluronic acid constantly.
However, "hyaluronic acid" from cosmetics is not able to stimulate the synthesis or interact with the skin's own hyaluronic acid. Therefore, neither fillers nor cosmetics with “hyaluron” can prevent premature aging. Retinol, acids, copper peptides will help stimulate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.
Do you have any questions? Ask in the comments.
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And there are many legends around it. Either it is declared almost a panacea for skin aging, and then it turns out that it was a joke that the molecules do not penetrate beyond the stratum corneum and the moisturizing effect is only a temporary phenomenon. Then, that all the power is in injections. And finally, they suggest taking hyaluronic acid as a supplement, they say, so it definitely gets inside, hang on, skin! We decided to figure out what's what and draw our own conclusions.
1. Hyaluronic acid is not only a cosmetic ingredient
Hyaluronic acid, a linear polysaccharide of animal origin, is part of the connective and epithelial tissue, ligaments, tendons, cartilage, and the vitreous body of the eyes. For the skin, hyaluronic acid acts as a moisture regulator, maintaining a normal level of water balance in the cells, making it supple and dense to the touch.
If for some reason the amount of hyaluronic acid in the basal layer of the epidermis decreases, the healing processes are disrupted, elasticity decreases, the skin becomes dry, irritated and sensitive.
2. Hyaluronic acid can be obtained in many ways
More precisely, two, from animal raw materials (cock combs, ophthalmic vitreous body of cattle) or synthesizing by biotechnological methods. AT natural cosmetics hyaluronic acid of animal origin is not used.
3. This is the width, this is the height
Hyaluronic acid is of two types: consisting of small and large molecules. Large molecules (actually hyaluronic acid - hyaluronic acid) are most often used for subcutaneous injections, while small molecules are used as moisturizing and regenerating components in cosmetic products.
For a long time, it was believed that the use of small molecules in creams is meaningless, because, unlike large molecules, they do not have a pronounced moisturizing effect. However, later it turned out that, firstly, small molecules are still able to attract moisture, especially if there are enough of them. And secondly, due to their small size, they can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin, acting on the receptors of fibroblasts (cells that synthesize components of the intercellular substance), stimulating them to start the process of producing new hyaluronic acid.
As a "small" molecule in cosmetics, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid - sodium hyaluronate (Sodium Hyaluronate) is used. By the way, the rule “the more the better” does not work in the case of hyaluronic acid. Unlike most biological active additives, it shows its valuable properties at very low concentrations (0.01-0.1%), so do not be discouraged if you meet it at the end of the list of ingredients.
4. Moisturize while drying?
Hyaluronic acid is used in cosmetics as a moisturizing component, however, few people know that it works - having the ability to attract and retain a large number of water molecules, at low air humidity, hyaluronic acid can dry out the upper layers of the epidermis, creating a feeling of skin tightness. To avoid this, you need to either use products with hyaluronic acid in a humid climate (for example, at sea), or apply a moisturizer or emulsion on top, which will prevent the effect of tightening the skin.
5. And the sun ...
It used to be believed that the amount of hyaluronic acid decreases with age, and this is one of the reasons for the loss of skin elasticity. Now there is an opinion that the most important factor leading to a decrease in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the skin is ... the sun. More precisely, damage to the skin by UV-B rays, due to which the synthesis of hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts decreases, and at the same time the processes of its decay intensify. At the same time, decay products accumulate in the skin and are removed from it rather slowly.
6. Honey, you need to inject yourself!
Hyaluronic acid is used as a filler (injectable) in anti-aging therapy and to moisturize the skin. In general, there is an opinion that hyaluronic acid in creams is not absorbed and the only way, increase skin hydration, it is to undergo a course of mesotherapy. Moreover, some cosmetologists suggest starting injections from the age of 25, so to speak "for the future". Here is what cosmetologist Tiina Orasmäe-Meder thinks about this:
“It is important for practitioners to understand that the quality of the drug always determines the nature of the effect of the procedure, but at the same time, side effects and complications are possible even when using the highest quality and proven drugs. Hyaluronic acid is present in the connective tissue, dermis and epidermis, and the regulation of its amount is determined by natural mechanisms.
Any introduction of HA from the outside activates the mechanisms of regulation, therefore, contouring, etc. cannot be considered a completely controlled process: after the drug enters the skin, the rate of its degradation and probable changes in tissues will be determined by the state of health and individual features organism as a whole.
The effect of external rejuvenation, reducing the severity of wrinkles and improving skin tone can persist for a different time. It is important to understand that any introduction of significant amounts of HA locally leads to the activation of the synthesis of metalloproteinases, which also include collagenases and elastase, the synthesis of which is closely related to the synthesis of hyaluronidases. Therefore, the degradation of the injected hyaluronic acid can occur with a simultaneous increase in the degradation of its own collagen and elastin, which does not contribute to maintaining the elasticity of the skin.
In general, I would like to once again warn specialists against excessive enthusiasm for the injection of HA, primarily against the too frequent use of this method. The local administration of HA preparations in order to compensate for the deficiency of one's own HA has a therapeutic and aesthetic effect, but the use of HA for “prophylactic injections” is highly debatable.”
7. Shall we clap a glass?
In addition to creams and injections, hyaluronic acid can be consumed orally in the truest sense of the word - in the form of tablets and drinks. There are especially many such nutritional supplements in the Asian market. Manufacturers promise to increase the hydration of the skin, which means to make it more elastic and smooth from the inside - not like these dubious creams that are known to remain on the surface of the skin ...
What can be answered here? Unfortunately, so far there are no independent studies that would confirm that regular intake of hyaluronic acid can increase the moisture-retaining properties of the skin. All data and figures are given by the manufacturers themselves, which makes it possible to doubt their objectivity.
Many ladies who took dietary supplements with hyaluronic acid note that the functioning of the joints improves - they stop squeaking, pain in osteoporosis decreases. That is, hyaluronic acid, which has entered the body, is used to maintain connective tissues. Whether there is something "for the skin" is unknown. In any case, these additives are considered harmless, except that you should not lay on them all the responsibility for your appearance.
Sources:
“Hyaluronic acid”, Tiina Orasmäe-Meder
“Cosmetic chemistry”, T. Puchkova
The question "Is it worth taking hyaluronic acid inside?" by no means idle. The fact is that in the body of a person weighing 70 kg, on average, there are about 15 grams of hyaluronic acid. It is present in the joint fluid, cartilage, eyeball, skin, etc. According to its chemical structure, hyaluronic acid (hyaluronate) belongs to the family of glycosaminoglycans - complex compounds consisting of a protein component and carbohydrates. It is characterized by a very high metabolic rate - a third of all hyaluronic acid is updated in the body every day.
Hyaluronic acid and skin
In the skin, hyaluronic acid is one of the components of the intercellular substance of the connective tissue layer - dermis. In combination with water, it forms a gel that envelops the collagen and elastin fibers, supplying them with nutrition and creating a protective shell for them. A sufficient amount of hyaluronic acid and the strength of collagen and elastin fibers are the basis for maintaining skin elasticity. In addition, hyaluronic acid is involved in tissue regeneration.
Hyaluronates are synthesized by connective tissue cells - fibroblasts. The processes of formation of hyaluronic acid are carried out by special enzymes. They lengthen its molecule, alternately attaching the necessary components. The result is a very high molecular weight (very large) hyaluronic acid molecule capable of holding 3,000 times its own weight in water molecules.
Hyaluronic acid performs another important function - protecting cells from free radicals. It begins to be intensively spent during the period of oxidative stress (with excessive exposure to UV radiation, adverse environmental factors, smoking, illness, etc.), which partly explains the deterioration in the appearance of the skin in these cases.
The consumption of hyaluronic acid means the cleavage of fragments from it (oligosaccharides and low molecular weight hyaluronates). On average, a hyaluronic acid molecule lives in the dermis for a short time - its half-life is 2 days.
In recent years, data have appeared that hyaluronic acid molecules are present not only in the dermis, but also in the deep layers of the epidermis(basal and prickly), where it also performs important functions, participating in the processes of keratinization and exfoliation. The "life" of a hyaluronic acid molecule in the epidermis is shorter than in the dermis - its half-life is 1 day.
With age, as well as under the influence of external factors that trigger the processes of oxidation and the formation of free radicals in the body, the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases. As a result, the skin becomes less elastic, loses elasticity and tone, and becomes thinner. Wrinkle formation is accelerated.
Why using cosmetics with hyaluronic acid may not be enough
In order for a molecule of hyaluronic acid from a cream to penetrate into the epidermis, it must be low molecular weight. But even low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can act only at the level of the upper, stratum corneum of the epidermis.
Such a cream is not able to affect the elasticity of the skin, because. hyaluronic acid, which is located in the deeper layers - the dermis, is responsible for maintaining elasticity.
Hyaluronates are injected into the deep layers of the skin. But the effect of these methods is not based on replenishing hyaluronic acid reserves in the dermis, but on stimulating the activity of fibroblasts that synthesize their own collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. In this case, the cellular response will depend on:
- body resources (the older the skin, the weaker the response to any stimuli);
- sufficiency of the intake of components necessary for the assembly of hyaluronic acid into the body - both oligosaccharides, amino acids, and microelements that are part of the enzymes of the body.
An attempt to influence the second factor of enhancing the synthesis of own hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts is the use of dietary supplements with hyaluronic acid.
The use of hyaluronic acid for facial skin inside in tablets
The idea of using hyaluronic acid for facial skin in tablets appeared after studying the diet of residents of the Japanese village of Yuzurihara, who, being centenarians, have few wrinkles even in old age and continue to lead an active lifestyle. Their diet was found to be rich in starchy vegetables (taro root), plant foods containing vitamins, trace elements and antioxidants (corn, okra, jute), rice, algae and seafood. This diet allows you to maintain a high level of hyaluronic acid in the body.
Of course, such a diet is not typical for Russian conditions. Therefore, significant efforts may be required to maintain a normal steady level of hyaluronic acid in the body. The use of hyaluronic acid in tablets could be the means that would make it possible to replenish the components necessary for its synthesis.
To date, tablets with hyaluronic acid are widely used in Asia for the purpose of a comprehensive solution to the problems of age-related skin changes. In Russia, there are also similar dietary supplements, although until recently they were mainly focused on use in the complex treatment of joint diseases. In recent years, large cosmetic concerns (for example, Evalar) have offered dietary supplements with hyaluronic acid directly for the skin.
To live happily ever after, not to grow old and not to die is the dream of every person. The world does not stand still, and humanity is already on the verge of discovery. All this will be possible thanks to hyaluronic acid and its use in medicine and cosmetology.
Any woman at least once in her life has come across the term "hyaluronic acid". Nevertheless, not everyone understands why hyaluronic acid is so valued in the world of cosmetology. Why is it recognized by all cosmetologists and doctors?
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide from the family of glycosaminoglycans, which is one of the components of human tissues and fluids. This acid is found both in human cells and in animal cells and even bacteria. Since the time of school biology lessons, we know that the human body consists of cells, which in turn form organs, but the empty space between organs and cells is filled with connective tissue.
Hyaluronic acid is part of the connective tissue and is the main element of the intercellular matrix. Connective tissue can be in a liquid and solid state, as well as in the form of a gel. In a liquid state, hyaluronic acid is present in saliva, in the cerebrospinal fluid, and also in the synovial fluid (fluid that fills the joint cavity).
In the solid state, hyaluronate is part of the bones, and in the form of a gel it is present in the vitreous body, cartilage and interstitial fluid. In a large volume, hyaluronic acid is synthesized in the skin by specific cells - fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are connective tissue cells whose main function is to synthesize, in addition to hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin.
The main amount of all hyaluronic acid is concentrated in the skin, it is located in the connective tissue of the dermis between the collagen and elastin fibers, as well as in the corneocytes of the stratum corneum. If we draw some analogy and imagine our skin as a mattress, then we can say that collagen and elastin are springs, and hyaluronic acid is foam rubber that fills the space between them.
As we have seen from the above, hyaluronic acid is a natural component of our body. It is synthesized in it and participates in many biological processes. Its role in the body is truly invaluable.
The role of hyaluronic acid in the body
Hyaluronic acid has wonderful properties. The most important and valuable quality is the ability to bind and retain water. It is known that one molecule of hyaluronic acid binds 500 water molecules. It also has the so-called "diaper effect" - the ability not to release moisture from the skin.
Being an important component of the extracellular matrix, hyaluronate ensures the vital activity of cells by filling the space between them. Hyaluronic acid takes part in the process of proliferation (tissue growth by cell division), provides transportation of oxygen, lymphocytes and other blood molecules and nutrients to the site of tissue damage and inflammation.
But few people know that, in addition to its miraculous qualities, hyaluronate plays an important role in the process of migration of malignant tumors and the diffusion of streptococcal infection. For this reason, an excess of hyaluronic acid is just as dangerous as its deficiency: it all depends on the processes that occur in the body.
The production of hyaluronic acid in the body can speed up or slow down, its amount can increase or decrease, and this is by no means related to age. Cosmetologists are accustomed to believing that the deficiency of hyaluronic acid in the body is a kind of indicator of skin aging, which allows prescribing preparations based on it as a treatment and prevention of age-related skin changes. But it's not.
The most important causes that contribute to the synthesis of hyaluronate are inflammation, tissue damage or trauma. In places of tissue damage, inflammation or injury, the amount of hyaluronic acid increases significantly.
Types of hyaluronic acid
Depending on the number of fragments that make up the hyaluronic acid molecule, it can have a different mass and length.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect. Used in the treatment of trophic ulcers, burns, psoriasis and other skin diseases. This type of hyaluronate is part of the products for external use: creams, tonics, emulsions and serums. They are able, without losing their properties, to penetrate deep into the skin.
An important point to consider when using products based on hyaluronic acid is air humidity.
When air humidity is low, hyaluronic acid has the opposite effect of moisturizing. The upper layers of the skin are tightened, become dry, the effect of a stretched mask on the face is created. To eliminate these unpleasant sensations, immediately after hyaluronic acid, apply a moisturizing serum to the face or nutritious cream. Nourishing and moisturizing cream will create a feeling of comfort and relieve unpleasant symptoms. Low molecular weight forms of hyaluronic acid are able to increase skin elasticity and partially fill already formed wrinkles.
Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid in injections with a mass of 100 to 500 kDa triggers the synthesis of endogenous (intrinsic) hyaluronic acid and the process of neocollagenogenesis by stimulating fibroblasts. It is also actively used for medical purposes, in particular for the treatment of certain forms of arthritis and in ophthalmology for the treatment of eyes.
The high-molecular form of hyaluronate is successfully used in cosmetology for enhanced skin hydration and replenishment of lost volumes. Due to its properties, it is able to hold a large number of water molecules. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid from 900 kDa and above has great restructuring and antioxidant abilities. In addition, its deposition in tissues is two weeks, compared with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which is stored in tissues for one week. The higher the molecular weight of hyaluronate, the better the morphogenesis of the polymer network, the more viscous the solution becomes at low concentrations. This allows you to cover a large area of the skin with a continuous moisturizing film.
We are losing her. The reasons?
Over time, the process of decomposition of hyaluronic acid in the body prevails over its synthesis. For what reason is this happening? Oddly enough, but contrary to the dominant belief, it is not age that plays a dominant role in this process. The main reason is damage to the skin by ultraviolet irradiation of types A and B. Under the harmful effects of UV radiation, skin cells are damaged and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid is reduced.
Simultaneously with the decrease in hyaluronic acid in the body, the processes of its decay intensify, while the decay products accumulate and are removed from the skin very slowly. In fact, this process is a protective reaction of the body, since UV radiation is main reason carcinogenesis, and hyaluronate is involved in the migration and screening of tumor cells.
Second important factor, which promotes the degradation of hyaluronic acid - the enzyme hyaluronidase. Hyaluronidase breaks down hyaluronic acid, and this process occurs continuously. The main part of hyaluronate breaks down and is restored again during the day. Full renewal of the entire volume of hyaluronic acid occurs within 3-4 days. And this involves the breakdown and new synthesis of hyaluronate in all tissues of the body. The reason for the collapse may be:
- age;
- ultraviolet radiation;
- unbalanced diet;
- bad habits (nicotine, alcohol);
- psycho-emotional state;
- taking certain medicines.
These reasons affect not only the amount of synthesized hyaluronic acid, but also its structure. A decrease in the amount of hyaluronic acid contributes to a decrease in water in the composition of some cellular structures and the appearance of the first signs of aging.
In addition, natural aging processes can lead to an increase in the volume of hyaluronic acid in the dermis, which can cause intercellular edema, on the one hand, and dehydration of the surface layers of the skin, on the other hand.
All these processes have a negative impact on the condition of the skin. It becomes dry, flabby, loses its elasticity and firmness, numerous wrinkles form on it. And as a result: the reflection in the mirror is not at all happy and becomes a source of grief.
Hyaluronic acid in cosmetology
In cosmetology, two industrial types of hyaluronic acid are used:
- animal origin;
- based on biotechnological synthesis.
For a long time, hyaluronic acid of animal origin has been used in cosmetology. It was obtained by crushing animal organs (combs of mature roosters, umbilical cords) as a result of a two-phase cleaning. In such a preparation, animal proteins and peptides were preserved, which contributed to the development of allergic reactions and drug rejection.
The body positioned this form of hyaluronate as a foreign substance and launched a reaction to eliminate the foreigner. All this, of course, influenced the aesthetic result of the procedure. And instead of the long-awaited rejuvenation, extra trouble was added to eliminate the complications that had arisen. Today, hyaluronic acid of animal origin is almost never used.
But science does not stand still. New technologies and drugs are being created that can completely minimize side effects, complications and risks. Therefore, hyaluronic acid obtained by biochemical synthesis is now used in cosmetology.
For these purposes, bacterial cultures are used, and specifically streptococci grown on a plant basis (wheat broth). This method is based on the ability of some microorganisms to synthesize hyaluronic acid. The biochemical method allows you to achieve a large amount of a substance with the desired molecular weight and with an acceptable structure.
Directly in fillers is used:
- stabilized (native, natural);
- unstabilized (chemically modified).
The effect of hyaluronic acid directly depends on its type. Each type has its own advantages and effects. Of great importance is the degree of purification of the drug. Some preparations based on hyaluronate contain additional substances in the form of vitamins, amino acids, and biologically active substances. Others are "pure", they contain only hyaluronic acid, which acts as an independent component. Stabilized hyaluronic acid is considered the most effective.
Preparations based on stabilized hyaluronic acid are stored in the skin for a long time, form the basis of hydroreserve preparations and trigger regenerative processes in the dermis.
The hyaluronic acid molecule is very sensitive. It reacts sharply to chemical modification: thermal or mechanical. For this reason, it should be properly preserved during chemical reactions. Stabilized hyaluronic acid is obtained by biochemical synthesis, followed by a crosslinking process called stabilization (the formation of crosslinks between hyaluronic acid molecules).
Molecules of hyaluronic acid undergo crosslinking in order to prevent their rapid degradation. Such hyaluronic acid shows long-term clinical effects when it is introduced into the skin. After crosslinking, the resulting gels undergo purification, which is a very painstaking process and is a decisive factor in the pricing of stabilizing hyaluronic acid preparations.
Depending on the level of stabilization, gels of various viscosities are produced to eliminate various aesthetic problems: slightly stabilized - to eliminate fine wrinkles, more stabilized and more viscous - to correct nasolabial folds and restore lost volumes.
Stabilized hyaluronic acid is used in contouring and face reinforcement, as this type of hyaluronate holds volume well. That is, when it is necessary to replenish lost volumes, for example, of the cheeks, push out the nasolabial folds from the outside, model the contour of the face and fill in the gaps on the face, stabilized hyaluronic acid is used.
Unstabilized hyaluronic acid is used in mesotherapy and biorevitalization to hydrate tissues and improve skin elasticity.
Injection methods based on hyaluronic acid
Injection methods and techniques based on preparations with hyaluronic acid give fantastic results. But not every hyaluronic acid improves skin characteristics. In order for the regeneration mechanisms in the dermis to start, several conditions must be met:
- Hyaluronate must be stabilized (natural, native).
- The molecular weight of hyaluronate must exceed 1 million Daltons.
- The concentration of hyaluronic acid in the preparation should exceed 15 mg per milliliter.
- Hyaluronic acid should be a viscous consistency.
If these conditions are not met, then fibroblasts are not activated and the rejuvenation process does not start.
Preparations based on hyaluronic acid are used in the following injection techniques:
- biorevitalization;
- mesotherapy;
- bioreparation;
- redermalization;
- contour plastic;
- bioreinforcement.
Biorevitalization- the most popular and effective procedure in cosmetology. It is based on the introduction of hyaluronic acid into the middle layers of the skin. It is used in all cases of age-related skin aging, in the treatment of acne and postpartum stretch marks.
Mesotherapy- the introduction of hyaluronic acid and cocktails based on it by the method of multiple injections.
Bioreparation- the introduction of hyaluronic acid with vitamins, amino acids and peptides.
Redermalization– injection of hyaluronic acid and sodium succinate (a derivative of succinic acid).
Contour plastic– replenishment of lost volumes with the help of hyaluronic gel.
Bio-reinforcement of the face– restoration of the contour outline of the face oval with hyaluronic biogel.
Contraindication to the use of hyaluronic acid
Despite the fact that hyaluronic acid is synthesized by our body, and modified preparations based on it have a high degree of purification, there are still cases of drug rejection and allergic reactions. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to completely clear the resulting preparation from the content of foreign protein impurities. It is these impurities that cause unwanted side effects and complications. Also, the additional introduction of hyaluronic acid into the body can cause unforeseen consequences, since it plays big role in the migration of malignant tumors and the spread of various infections. There are a number of serious contraindications that must be considered.
Do not use preparations based on hyaluronic acid in the following cases:
- autoimmune and oncological diseases;
- infectious and chronic diseases in the acute stage;
- pregnancy and lactation;
- inflammation of the skin on the face;
- individual intolerance to the drug.
Failure to follow these precautions may result in serious consequences.
Hyaluronic acid - truth and fiction
Any miraculous substance causes a lot of controversy and rumors, in which there is very little truth, but a lot of fiction. Overly impressionable natures attribute to hyaluronic acid something magical and magical properties, then everywhere they look for a catch and hidden conspiracies. Let's take a look at some established myths.
Myth #1: Hyaluronic acid injections are addictive.
This is not true. "Get hooked on the needle" is possible only from a psychological point of view. When a patient uses effective cosmetic preparations, he notices how his appearance improves. He likes this state, his self-esteem rises, he begins to get used to it. The desire to look better and better grows. But this has nothing to do with hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid in creams acts only on the surface layer of the epidermis. In injections, hyaluronic acid stimulates its own cells, returning them to natural processes that they had forgotten as the skin matured. And after the expiration date, hyaluronic acid breaks down in the body and completely disappears. She can't be addicted.
Myth two: the large molecular weight of hyaluronic acid does not allow it to penetrate the skin.
Partly true. If we are talking about cosmetic preparations in the form of creams, emulsions, serums, then it is. These drugs are designed to "work" in the upper layers of the epidermis. They are not a drug and should not penetrate the skin barrier. But the fact is that scientists have long since learned to break up the hyaluronic acid molecule and create its low molecular weight forms. The low molecular weight hyaluronic acid contained in the cream is quite capable of penetrating the skin.
Myth three: hyaluronic acid in injections increases intraocular pressure.
Hyaluronic acid is part of many biological fluids, it is a component of our body, it is present in many organs, in particular, it is part of the vitreous body. For the first time in history, hyaluronic acid was used in ophthalmology. For this reason, it cannot increase intraocular pressure in any way.
Myth four: beauty injections with botulinum and hyaluronic acid are one and the same.
A very ignorant statement. Botulinum is a neurotoxin produced by the bacteria Clostridium botulinum. Botulinum-based drugs paralyze the muscle, preventing it from contracting. It does not affect the skin mechanisms, does not start the process of cell regeneration, but only temporarily relaxes the muscle and thereby helps to eliminate wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid is part of our body, it starts the processes of regeneration and activation of dermal cells, moisturizes the skin, replenishes lost volumes. These are two completely different substances, they have different functions and roles.
A very common misconception. It is necessary to protect the skin at any time of the year, especially in winter, when dry air-conditioned air and hot air from indoor batteries contribute to dryness and dehydration of the skin. You just need to know that a moisturizer is applied half an hour before going out into the cold. During this period of the year, you need to strengthen both nourish and moisturize the skin.
Myth #6: Hyaluronic acid injections draw moisture from the deep layers of the skin.
Of course, this is not so. Everything happens exactly the opposite. Hyaluronic acid moisturizes, saturates the skin with moisture. In our body, the breakdown and synthesis of hyaluronic acid occurs every day. And every three to four days, the amount of hyaluronic acid in all systems and organs is completely replenished. Injections or creams are not able to “pull” water from the deep layers of the skin also because hyaluronic acid has a “diaper effect” and does not release moisture from the skin.
In modern cosmetology, a powerful tool has appeared - hyaluronic acid. It became the subject of serious scientific research and began to be actively used in aesthetic medicine. Over the past few years, hyaluronic acid has proven its effectiveness, recognized throughout the world. An entire industry of anti-aging technologies and preparations has been built on its basis. But in order not to fall into the trap of your own addictions, you need to get acquainted with its healing effects, production methods and types. After all, even the most miraculous drug can bring both benefit and harm.
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