Coloring camisole for children national Kazakh costume. Men's national clothes. Decoration of national costumes of Kazakhs

The Kazakh folk costume has absorbed all the best that has been created by the art and talent of many generations multiplied by the work of hundreds and thousands of craftsmen. The Kazakh costume embodied the basic principles and achievements of artistic crafts, created over the centuries as a result of the economic specialization of the nomadic, semi-sedentary and sedentary groups of the population. It reflected the pulsating way of life of the people, the level of its production, aesthetic ideals. the influence of those ethnic components from which the Kazakh people historically formed is clearly traced. For example, the Turkic-Kypchak ethnic layer includes the manner of wrapping clothes on left side, fringing of a dressing gown, camisole-sleeveless jackets with stripes placement of colored lines, embroideries along the edges of the cutout for the head in a kimeshek women's headdress in the form of a hood with a triangle going down the back. And in the fact of decorating with feathers (as amulets) children's, girl's hats, headdresses of improvisers, scientists see a reflection of the pagan ideas of the Kazakhs and their ancestors, passing from generation to generation.

In the Kazakh costume, one can find traces of the influence of neighboring ethnic groups - Russians, Tatars, Karakalpaks, Altaians, it has much in common with the national clothes of the Kyrgyz, Uzbeks, Turkmens. There are also elements of direct borrowing, as evidenced by the interception at the waist found in the cut of the male beshmet, flared design women's dress kulish koilek (kulish koilek), assemblies on the back of another women's dress zhaz koilek (zhaz koilek), one-piece holaty, individual samples of skullcaps, boots, etc.

Like any folk costume, it has been evolutionarily improved, the development of its main forms occurred as if under the influence environment, living conditions in the steppes with their winds, summer heat and winter frosts, and taking into account the needs of nomadic life, such as the need to be in the saddle for a long time in clothes that do not restrict movement.

These and other factors explain its simplicity, practicality and expediency, emphatically pointing to its origin in the local steppe environment.

The costume of the wealthy part of the steppe population was distinguished by luxury and splendor. A strict silhouette was inherent in it, it was complemented by embroidery with gold and silver threads, beads, decorated with pearls, gemstones, corals, metal plaques covered with silver and gold.

The Kazakh folk costume is characterized by the absence of a strict line in the cut of ceremonial and everyday clothes with a certain age regulation. The front door differed from the everyday one in a somewhat loose cut, volume of headdresses, and decorations. Velvet, silk, brocade, expensive furs were used to sew ceremonial clothes, while everyday clothes were made from simple material. Social differences in both women's and men's suits are manifested mainly in the quality of the material, decoration, and the amount of clothing worn at the same time in a set.

All this, merged together, formed a very peculiar, unique complex of folk costume, which, brighter than any other phenomenon, reflects in principle the specifics of the formation of the Kazakh national culture.

According to the well-known researcher and connoisseur of the Kazakh folk costume R. Khodzhaeva at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, shoulder clothing, both open and non-open, was tunic-shaped. Directly on the body of a man, they put on a wide, long-sleeved, swinging shirt - jade, with an open triangular neckline, sheathed with a stitched or quilted strip of the same fabric. They sewed jade and with a deaf collar. However, starting from the middle of the 19th century, non-opening shirts with a shoulder seam, a beveled shoulder, a straight cut on the chest, sheathed with a wide turn-down or narrow standing collar, are being distributed. At the beginning of the neckline for the head, the shirt was hemmed, sewing ties to it on both sides, later they began to sheathe it with a strap, to make a fastener with welt buttonholes for it

R. Khodzhaeva also reports that Kazakh women in the past wore a non-opening shirt - koylek (koylek), as usual, also of a tunic-like cut, but longer and wider than that of men, with a blank collar and a straight slit in front, a corner fastener. The collar of a woman's dress has always been a turn-down, but from the second half of the 19th century it was replaced with a standing one. At the same time, girlish dresses with two or three rows of frills appeared, which later became generally accepted - kosetek (kosetek) literally - “with two hems”. The ends of the sleeves, sometimes collars, were also decorated with frills.

It can be assumed that earlier women could wear dresses without collars, girls - without a front slit, which is also confirmed by the drawings. performed at one time by travelers - Europeans.

The Kazakh folk costume, especially women's, with a general similarity of silhouette, cut and decoration techniques, however, is not without individual differences in proportions, in the choice of material, in color combinations. This is most likely due to the fact that in some regions the most archaic forms of clothing could be preserved longer due to rooted craft traditions and established ideas about beauty and harmony. Of course, they were sewn in each region in their own way, but everywhere they distinguished a girl's costume, a young married woman, an elderly woman. The edging of the eye (oka) stripes, woven with gold and silver threads, gave a special elegance to the girl's costume, chain stitch, beads, as well as the presence in its set of gold, silver jewelry, pendants made of precious beads and semi-precious stones, corals, turquoise, embroidered hats with feathers attached to it.

It was considered unsuitable for a married woman to wear a dress made of bright fabric, with frills and embroidery, while a girl could wear any dress to her taste, often embroidered with tambour, gold and silver thread. True, a young woman could wear richly trimmed bibs - kokrekshe (kokirekshe) from thick fabric worn on a dress under a sleeveless jacket; zhaulyk (zhaulyk) headdress from the covered type, folded from a square of white cotton fabric, the crossed ends of which were thrown over the shoulders. But, having become a wife and mother, she had, as custom requires, to wear longer than girls' dresses without frills: a camisole, fastened in front at the waist with a large metal buckle - capsyrma (қapsyrma), often with buttons. Wearing a headdress, in particular, kimeshek and its varieties - sulama (sulama), shylauym, kundik (kundik), orama, was determined by the ancient custom, according to which a married woman had to hide her hair, especially in the temporal part, from prying eyes. She could not leave the house uncovered and do housework, while a girl could braid her hair in two or more braids and not cover them at all.

In winter to the set women's costume chapan (shapan) was added, covered with velvet on a quilted lining, borik (borik) - a headdress with fur trim, a scarf, warm boots.

In the past, a swing skirt was very popular in the south of Kazakhstan and in Semirechye - beldemshe made of velvet or fine cloth, which was gathered on a wide, dense belt from the same material, fastened with buttons or a buckle. Beldemshe was often embroidered with a vestibule, sometimes trimmed with expensive fur. Its variety - shalgy (shalgy) was tied with a wide ribbon in two circles around the waist.

Women of Central and Northern Kazakhstan, depending on taste, wore dresses under a camisole, decorated with small silver plaques minted specially for this purpose - shtyr. And in the southeast, thin leaf-shaped plaques - zharma - were sewn along the section of the dress for the head. Such a dress was fastened at the throat with one large patterned clasp - tana (brooch). In the west of Kazakhstan, a metal decoration - tamaksha (tamaksha) - was often tightly sewn onto the collar of a dress, and silver coin-like circles, often silver coins, corals on small chains, were sewn onto camisoles.

Older women usually wore camisoles over a loose-fitting dress with a lining - zhon koilek (zhon koilek) - sleeveless jackets, long with welt and stitched pockets, slightly fitted. In Central Kazakhstan, they were fastened with a strict row of silver fasteners - bota trsek (bota tirsek), remotely resembling the knee joints of a camel cub (bota - camel cub, tirsek - fold), or on curly, silver-rimmed buttons. And in the southeast they simply girded themselves with a sash of satin or chintz. Elderly women put on a kimeshek on their heads, complemented by a turban or a scarf, wound from below so that each upper coil was higher than the previous one. They sewed a kimeshka from white cotton fabric.

In the cold season, older women wore velvet-covered or quilted chapans, and wealthier women wore a fur coat (ishik) made from the skins of fur-bearing animals, which in the past was a measure of prosperity, ichigi (mәsi) worn in leather galoshes - kebs (kebis).

The men's costume of the Kazakhs is more of the same type compared to the women's. It consisted of underwear - jade (shirt, pants), chapan (shapan) from purchased fabric, shekpen from homespun cloth of the same name, wide trousers (shalbar, sym) from sheepskin, dyed in natural colors, tucked into boots - saptama with felt stocking - baypak (baipak), sheepskin coat - tone. Men's hats did not differ in great variety either. In the men's suit, only the details of the cut, the materials from which they were made, the composition of items changed in accordance with the requirements of the time.

The suit of a dzhigit was distinguished by sophistication, a shirt was sewn for him - koylek (koylek) with a standing collar made of white cotton fabric. In the side under the sleeves of the shirt, gussets were inserted - koltyksha (koltyksha) in the form of triangles. Pants - dambal with a "wide step" made of the same material as the shirt, looked like a rectangular "bag" with two long, slightly tapering trousers with an insert - a wedge (ushkil) in the connection. The upper edges of the trousers were tucked up so that a belt could be threaded through them.

Over underwear, the dzhigit put on light, fitted, fitted, with a standing collar, buttoned shoulder clothes - beshmet (in the north and east of Kazakhstan), keudesh, kokrekshe (in the west, in Central Kazakhstan) with sleeves inserted into the armhole or without sleeves. Depending on this, in the first case she was called beshmet, in the second - keudesh, kokrekshe.

Beshmet in the south of Kazakhstan was also fitted, just below the hips, fastened in the upper part of the smell with only one button. A shirt for him was sewn from thin cotton fabric with a stand-up collar and an oblique fastener and tucked into trousers. They girded themselves with a belt - beldik (beldik) made of rawhide, often with a cloth sash.

Chapans, beshmets, kokrekshe were sewn from fine woolen cloth - mauts, velvet, brocade,

printed silk, mostly blue, brown and beige. It should be said that the Kazakhs and their ancestors have known these materials for a long time from the exchange trade on the ancient caravan "Silk Road" that once passed through the cities of South Kazakhstan. The edges of the floor of the sleeves were bordered with braid, welt pockets without flaps were located slightly below the waist. Starting from the 19th century, trimming with a braid, gold and silver thread has been spreading. Bloomers were sewn from the same material,

as beshmet, with a wedge insert for convenience when riding. The upper edges of the harem pants, tucked into boots, as I did with dambals, were tucked up so that you could thread a belt that replaced the belt. Bloomers had neither widths, nor fasteners and buttons.

Trousers, fastened on a wide belt with buttons, with a fly, appeared in the set of a dzhigit costume much later, by the end of the 19th century, under the influence, presumably, of Russian cut. Beshmets, trousers on a fabric base made of foal skins, saiga embroidered with tambour, were very popular among young men. Depending on the season, beshmets could be insulated.

The costume of an elderly man consisted of the same types of clothing as a dzhigit, only a slightly looser cut. For example, his beshmet was far from always fitted, it was even considered indecent for his age, and the trousers were wider. Such a costume was sewn from a simple material, fine woolen cloth - mauts (mauiti), printed silk in calm tones. Over the lower shoulder clothing, the man put on a spacious chapan, made of dense material with a lining, straight cut, with long and wide sleeves, and girdled.

With the onset of winter, men dressed in sheepskin or wolf coats, put on a fox treukh - tymak (tymak) on their heads, and heavy leather boots - saptama - on their feet. True, sheepskin sheepskin coats were often replaced with a fur coat quilted on a fur or wool lining - buy (kupi), one of the ancient forms of clothing of Kazakhs - cattle breeders. According to S. I. Rudenko, who in the 1920s examined the clothes of the Kazakhs of the Uila and Sagyz rivers on the basis of paleoethnological data, buy was common among the Kazakhs and their ancestors for at least two millennia. Covered with cloth, velvet, and sewn from the skins of fur-bearing animals, fur coats-ishik (ishik) were highly valued among the steppe nobility. The most elegant fur coats were trimmed around the edges with otter and marten fur.

Since ancient times, a long felt cloak - ke-benek - was included in the set of a men's suit, which was sewn from small special quality square pieces of thin felt specially prepared for this purpose, with a pile on front side. His collar was often cut out with a deaf standing or wide turn-down, which served as a hood. It was worn by shepherds, herdsmen over winter clothes, going to the winter cold to pastures along with cattle.

Beshmets (kokrekshe) the old people had straight silhouette without any hint of embellishment. They were sewn from simple matter, on a quilted basis. They fastened with buttons. He made bloomers from the same material as shoulder clothing, they were tucked into boots or ichigi. The shirt was usually sewn long to the knees, with a turn-down collar, ribbons at the neck for tying, which covered a wide dambal made of the same white calico in the set.

Rich old people. especially those who were fond of horseback riding, hunting for their own pleasure put on suede robes embroidered with multi-colored silk threads over the beshmet, wide trousers with cuts at the bottom, girded with belts with scabbards sewn to them.

The outer garments of men, as you know, did not fasten, and therefore the belt was hers.

required element. The most ancient Kazakh belt is kse-belbeu (kіse-belbeu). Unlike other types of belts, for example, beldik (beldіk), it had decorative leather pendants firmly attached to the straps, the so-called okshantai (okshantai), reminiscent of ancient powder flasks, scabbard - kyn (kyn). The belt was also decorated with metal plaques.

Among men, borik (borik), a round hat with a fur edge, covered with velvet, and its varieties - kundyz borik (құndyz borik), pushpak borik (pұshpaқ bөrik), kara borik (қara bөrik), eltiri borvk (eltiрi bөrik) enjoyed wide popularity. etc. They differed in materials, small details in the cut. In the steppe conditions were also indispensable tymak - three foxes; kalpak - a hat made of white felt, trimmed mainly with black velvet; zhalbagai, dalbai - hoods on the lining, reminiscent of the shape of a tripe in cut; takiya - round skullcap with a patterned line on the band.

The steppe nobility used to wear high headdresses ayyrkalpak, murak, sewn from velvet. Mostly burgundy in color, on a felt basis, embroidered with gold thread with floral patterns. They were worn over a cone-shaped hat trimmed with expensive fur.

Adult men constantly, even at the dinner dastarkhan, wore a skullcap, and all the headdresses listed above over it when they were on fresh air. Young men and children wore skullcaps embroidered with silk, gold and silver threads, with patterns placed on the dome on four sides. They often managed with purchased skullcaps made in Kazan, Bukhara, and Tashkent.

Men, without exception, wore boots that usually did not differ in left and right, which made it possible to wear them much longer, changing from one foot to another from time to time. Boots, distinguishable on the left and right, appeared among the Kazakhs much later, in all likelihood, as a result of familiarization with European culture.

Heavy boots - saptama, sewn from home-made leather, were in great demand among the steppe population. They were worn over felt stockings - bypacks, which reliably protected the shins and knees from frost and piercing winds. Koksauyr (koksauyr) boots, sewn from green shagreen, which was obtained by pressing under the weight of some load scattered on the softened skin of millet, were considered exquisite footwear. Ichigi (mәsi) were worn mainly by old people, putting on them leather galoshes - kebs (kebіs) when leaving the house. Later, rubber ones also came into use, the so-called. "Aeiat" galoshes of factory production.

The most primitive shoes that the poor managed to do were leather sandals made of rawhide - shokai (shoqai), as well as sharyk (sharik), worn on boots to protect them when walking on stone screes.

The design of children's and teenage costumes among the Kazakhs repeats the clothes of adults in a reduced form, which, apparently, is associated with the desire of parents to see their children as adults as soon as possible. The exception was the so-called. it koilek (it koilek), which was sewn for newborns from a single piece of cotton fabric without shoulder seams and edging, and wadded bibs and trousers.

The wedding costume of both the bride and the groom differed from the usual one in elegance, decorations, high quality materials, decoration, the number of pieces of clothing in the set, the presence in it of such hats that are inconvenient for everyday wear, such as saukele, ayyrkalpak, murak, dresses embroidered with gold and silver thread, camisole, beshmet, robe. Necklace. rings, earrings, all kinds of pendants for a women's set wedding suit traditionally were part of the bride's dowry and prepared in advance.

Of course, if a poor man got married, he got by with a simple update of clothes, and his bride was content with an ordinary poor scarf - zhaulyk, which was added to everyday clothes.

Saukele - wedding, according to the Kazakhs, the "sacred" headdress of the bride, dates back to gray-haired antiquity. It is mentioned in many epic poems and legends. Saukele-shaped headdresses have been found by archaeologists in early medieval burials. Usually she used a quilted, velvet, conical hat as a frame for a saukele, sewing a forehead and a nape to it. After that, a saukele proper was erected on top of it - a headdress in the form of a tall cone trimmed with expensive fur, made of thin, sheathed with bright, most often burgundy or red fabric, felt.

Saukele was decorated with silver with gilding and plaques, a gold diadem with a ruby,

long, on both sides, pendants - zhaktama (zhaktama), consisting of coral beads, pearls, turquoise. An obligatory addition was a smooth cape, made of a transparent white veil, attached to the top of the headdress - jelly, which was usually used to cover the bride's face, wrapped her entire figure during the performance of the ritual wedding song "Betashar" to introduce the girl to the groom's relatives.

An ancient kasaba headdress (literally, “embroidered with gold”) in which, in all likelihood, the main elements of this early prototype - the ancient Turkic women's hat of the same name, was basically round, slightly beveled down at the back of the head. I made it using the same material as the camisole in a set of a women's suit, embroidering with gold threads, outlining with lurex embroideries.

The history of the search for this half-forgotten headdress is not without interest. For the first time, the late craftswoman Tleules Seitbekov told us about it in my native village of Mayakum, in the south of Kazakhstan, back in 1963. Long years of economic structure, way of life of the Kazakhs, localized in the steppes of the Eurasian belt.

However, at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, in connection with the development of commodity production in the emergence of capitalist relations on this basis, the expansion of economic and ethno-cultural contacts with neighboring peoples, the influx of Russians, Ukrainians, Germans, Tatars, and other peoples into Kazakhstan, there are significant changes in everyday life. , economy, aesthetic ideals of its indigenous population. During this period, the urban pier began to exert a strong influence on folk clothes.

The restructuring of the Kazakh aul on a new basis, carried out during the years of Soviet power, had a huge impact on the folk costume. Clothes and shoes could now be bought ready-made, which made it possible to abandon narrow-knit weaving, handicrafts for the manufacture of sheepskin coats, sheepskin coats, and skins of fur-bearing animals. With the expansion of the production of consumer goods, the art of gold embroiderers, embroiderers, tanners, and jewelers - zergers - has gone into the past.

Whether we like it or not, due to these circumstances, under the influence modern fashion, replacement of materials, decorations, folk costume, which was a unique manifestation of material culture, an inexhaustible source for versatile research in the field of ethnoart, even in the most traditional types is undergoing some evolution today. This raises to the full extent the problems of its preservation, saving from pseudo-scientific delights, fake crafts that complicate the task of recreating the national costume in all its splendor and splendor.

Time is merciless to the best samples of the native costume - fabric, suede, fur, leather and skins, its main materials - cannot be stored forever. People are also not eternal - witnesses and experts of the passing era, who themselves wore a folk costume and therefore know its features well. The problem of preserving the folk costume is further complicated by the inept intervention of individual fashion designers who are overly fond of pseudo-national elements in art and actively push their “creations” through cinema, television, theaters, concert organizations, and all kinds of sewing workshops.

The Kazakh folk costume, whose creators are distinguished by an amazing understanding of the nature of products, material, decor, manufacturing methods, brought to virtuosity, is a subject of special national pride. Preserving it for future generations in its original form, of course, is both an honor and a responsibility for everyone involved in this process.

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The history of the Kazakh national clothes The national clothes of the Kazakhs absorbed all the best that the art and talent of folk craftsmen could create over the centuries. It reflects the way of life of the people, the level of its production, aesthetic ideals, the influence of those ethnic components that historically formed the Kazakh people is clearly traced. Of course, the traditional costume of the Kazakhs was greatly influenced, first of all, by the nomadic lifestyle. Folk "designers" created clothes so that they were comfortable for riding a horse, warmed in the winter season and not hot and heavy in summer. The neighboring peoples, with whom the Kazakhs were in close relationship, had a great influence on the formation of the Kazakh costume. In it you can find special features inherent, for example, in the national clothes of Russians, Tatars, Karakalpaks, Altaians, Kyrgyz, Uzbeks and Turkmens. Unlike the traditional clothing of some other peoples, the Kazakh costume is simple in composition, expedient and distinguished by strict elegance due to fur trim, embroidery, and inlay. It is impossible to find abundance in decorations and blinding variegation of colors that are inherent in, say, Turkmens.

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For the manufacture of clothes, shoes, hats, the following fabrics and materials were used: - leather (main, base material), sewn from it winter pants, festive outerwear, sleeveless jackets, sheepskin coats, hats. The skins were taken mainly from domestic animals - goats, sheep, stallions, cows. Dressed and bleached leather was used in combination with fabrics; - fur (as a heater and, at the same time, decoration of outerwear, shoes, etc.); - cloth (homemade); - felt (thin wool, dressed at home); - cotton fabric (imported - chintz, calico, calico, calico, for people of average income); - silk, brocade, velvet, satin, fine cloth (imported, a symbol of security, prosperity, high social status of a person). The sets were decorated with embroidery, fur trim, and various accessories. To dye the fabric, mixtures of dyes were boiled - yellow, red, orange and others.

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Women's traditional clothing. Women's Kazakh National clothes very beautiful, interesting in terms of unusual shapes, cut, color combinations. The main components of the attire for girls and women: - camisole or camisole - a light dress, with sleeves (beshmet) or without, falling along the figure and extended to the bottom. The fabric (most often velvet) for camisoles was taken bright for young girls, and the older ones preferred muted, calm tones; - koylek - a dress or a long undershirt made from a single piece of simple fabric (like everyday clothes), from expensive material (smart). The cut is non-standard - wide straight sleeves, a deaf collar, later a stand-up collar, several rows of frills; - trousers are an obligatory element of attire, since horseback riding required an appropriate way to dress.

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Women's pants were tied with a lace at the waist, they were made a little shortened (only below the knees), narrowed; - coupe - winter fur coats; - shapan - outerwear, similar to a dressing gown. Women's hats indicated marital status - the girls wore skullcaps and boriki ( winter version), and married women wore hats, taking into account the peculiarities of the husband's clan. The bride at the wedding always wore a saukele - a high hat in the shape of a cone complete with long pendants - zhaktau.

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Men's national clothes Kazakh national clothes for men also have their own specific traditions: - jade - a tunic shirt that is worn underneath; - pants - light bottom and top from different fabrics, given the wealth of the owner; - camisole; - shapan - a dressing gown, outerwear, emphasizes the security, financial situation of a person; - sheepskin coat; - ishyk (fur coat); - coupe. An integral accessory is a leather / fabric belt, sometimes made of velvet. The headdress of Kazakh men is a skullcap (permanent headdress), borik, kalpak (summer hats), tymak (winter version). The color of the robe has a symbolic content: white means joy, black means earth, red means fire, sun, green means youth, yellow means knowledge.

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They were very common in the Kazakh costume leather belts. One of these belts was kise. Special pendants-bags for stocking gunpowder and bullets, a scabbard and a snuffbox were attached to a long kisa. Their shapes and arrangement are of the same type, which indicates the antiquity of kise. Quite often the belt itself and pendants were decorated with silvered copper, less often with silver plaques.

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The most important and unusual element of the Kazakh wedding attire is saukele (translated from Kazakh - "beautiful head"). Saukele is the main element of the bride's wedding dress, which has no analogues among other peoples. The purpose of this part of the bride's attire is to protect her and her future family from unkind looks and unkind people. This is a cylindrical headdress, which reaches a height of 50 to 70 centimeters. It can be velvet or velor, but it is royally richly decorated: small gold or silver coins, beads of various colors or figured plates form national ornaments. Precious stones are also used for saukele decor: pearls, rubies, corals and others. The top of the saukele is closed by a decorative element in the form of a bundle, which is created with the help of owl or eagle owl feathers. The edges of the headdress are trimmed with fur. The saukele is complemented by a translucent snow-white veil, sometimes decorated with delicate lace patterns.

The Kazakh national costume reflects the ancient traditions of the Kazakhs, associated with their ethnic history, economic, social and climatic conditions.

The Kazakhs valued the skins of kulans, saiga and tigers, as well as dark furs - raccoon, muskrat, sable, marten and white - ermine and ferrets. The most expensive furs were sable and marten furs, the rest were valued cheaper. Fur coats were made from skins. The common name for a fur coat among Kazakhs is tone. Fur coats made from the fur of fur-bearing animals were called "ishik". A fur coat covered with high-grade silk was one of the most expensive items in a bride's dowry. It was called "bass tone". The Kazakhs knew the technique of making fur coats from swan down, down of loons and herons. Fur coats were covered with cloth, silk, brocade, etc. and differed by the name of the fabric or by its color. Only noble people wore a fur coat covered with blue cloth and trimmed with beaver - cocton.

Fur coats were also made from the skins of domestic animals.

Fur coats were also made from goat skins. Pulled out of them long hair leaving an undercoat. A fur coat made of such skins was called kylka zhargak. Kazakhs made suede from goat skins and sewed dressing gowns, light raincoats and trousers from it. Dressing gowns and bloomers were decorated with silk embroidery. When embroidering small patterns on the Kazakh national costume, the craftswomen used special rectangular or round hoops, depending on the outline of the ornamental pattern or the shape of the embroidered product. They embroidered with needles and an awl with a hook (for tambour embroidery) such elements of the Kazakh national costume as women's and men's hats - zhelek, kimeshek, saukele, telpek, takiya, frills of a woman's dress, as well as breast decorations - omyrausha, alka, suede raincoats, bathrobes, bloomers.

In the manufacture of various elements of the Kazakh national costume, satin stitch embroidery was widely distributed. Kimesheks, cloth men's pants, were embroidered with a smooth surface. With great skill they embroidered with a tambour - a loop in a loop. In tambour and satin stitch embroidery, geometric and floral patterns were used, sometimes contour images of a person and animals, sometimes whole plots.

Felt is one of the traditional materials of outerwear in the Kazakh national costume.

Except sheep wool in the clothes of the Kazakhs, camel was widely used. Shekpen is an ancient type of clothing - a wide and relatively long cloak rolled from camel hair to protect against rain, snowstorm, and any bad weather. Shekpen were made from undyed wool (yellow, white) and dyed in blue, purple and other colors. Ceremonial shekpen, as a rule, were made of dyed wool, their seams were sheathed with galloon.

Robe - shapan - the main and ancient type of Kazakh clothing, one of the constituent elements of the Kazakh national costume. Shapan was worn by both men and women. Dressing gowns were sewn not only from suede, but also from imported silk, woolen and cotton fabrics.

Kazakh men's and women's headdresses are varied. Some men's hats were made from felt. Of these, the most traditional and ancient is kalpak, which is a pointed felt headdress.

Kazakhs have a high hat made of white felt called ak kalpak. The same hat with wide brim turned up is called air kalpak. Ceremonial white hats ak kalpak were embroidered with white silk, sheathed with silver galloon around the crown and decorated with a corded seam along the edge. A variety of kalpak is telpek.

The next headdress, an element of the Kazakh national costume, is a kind of spring and autumn men's headdress - a boryk hat. Boryk - the oldest word, comes from the word "bory" - a wolf. The wolf is known to be an ancient totem of the Turkic tribes. The shape of the boryk hat is round with a high cone-shaped top or from several wedges with a truncated top, it is always trimmed with otter, sable, and lambskin fur.

Boryk-type hats were also worn by girls, only they were decorated with pendants and a bunch of owl, heron or peacock feathers. The Kazakhs call such a hat kamshat boryk - a beaver hat.

Skullcap - takiya - a headdress, one of the elements of the Kazakh national costume. The skullcap is a light summer hat made of velvet, brocade or glazing. In the old days, they were sheathed along the edge with beaver, otter, squirrel fur, decorated with silver and gold braid.

Of the female headdresses of the Kazakhs - the most original and original - wedding, known as saukele. Saukele is one of the ancient headdresses that existed among the Kazakhs until the very end of the nineteenth century. Saukele is a high cone-shaped headdress decorated with silver and gold coins, pearls and corals. Length - one and a half arshins. A wedding headdress is worn only for the first time after marriage, for about a year, and then it is taken off and put on only on big holidays, and then for four or five years.

Saukele was the most expensive element of the wedding Kazakh national costume of the bride. Expensive saukeles were valued at 1000 rubles or one hundred selected horses. They had metal openwork tops, a diadem (sometimes it was made of gold with inserts of gems or with strings of pearls, corals), temporal pendants and chin decorations. The frame of the saukele was covered with cloth and overlaid metal plaques of various configurations were sewn onto it, into the nests of which precious and semiprecious stones were inserted. The plaques were large and small. Small ones were attached between large ones. From above, the saukele was covered with silk or velvet scarves. The back of the head of one ancient saukele is decorated with a sculptural image of a fish's head - a symbol of prosperity. The frontal part is trimmed with fur. From the back of the head, a wide ribbon of expensive fabric, trimmed with a fringe of gold threads, descended down the back.

The most skillful craftsmen took part in the manufacture of saukele, in particular, a cutter, embroiderers - craftswomen in the manufacture of silk belts and scarves. Patterns on scarves and ribbons were embroidered with iris, that is, with thick twisted multi-colored threads. The center and edges of the scarves were trimmed with braided embroidery and sewing with nets. Gold, silver and bronze pendants and false plaques for saukele were made by jewelers who used casting, chasing, stamping, filigree. Usually the master worked on the saukele for a whole year.

After the birth of children, a young woman moves on to the third type of headdress - kimeshek. It is usually worn between the ages of 25-45. It is sewn from white fabric, often embroidered with satin stitch.

An integral part of the Kazakh national costume, male and female, were belts made of leather, velvet, silk, wool - beldik. in the manufacture of belts for ceremonial clothes, customers did not skimp on expensive materials, the craftsmen spared no time and put all their skills into work.

Men's belts with pendants were especially beautiful: a purse, a powder flask, flint, tinder, a knife case. Sometimes pendants had only a decorative purpose. And functional and decorative pendants were called okshantai.

leather belts were decorated with patterned embossing, figured metal plates with inserts of semi-precious stones, and carved bone plates. Such type-setting belts are an ancient element of clothing. Their Kazakh name is kise.

Belts were made not only from leather, but from silk and velvet and were worn by adult men. For young men, the belts were not type-setting, they did not have pendants. The buckles and straps on the belt were heart-shaped, made in the form of stylized figures of birds, deer, a wolf's head, ram's horns, etc.

Women's belts are similar to them, although they are wider and more elegant. Mostly women's belts were made of silk. belts made of silk with decorative knitting are called kur beldik.

Belts woven from camel hair and goat down were also called. Velvet was also used for women's belts. Belts made of velvet and silk, embroidered with pearls, with buckles were called kamar belbeu. They also made soft sashes - chickens.

Both men's and women's belts were decorated with metal rectangles, triangles, heart-shaped and horn-shaped overlays, as well as overlays in the form of balusters with inserts of turquoise, agate, carnelian. Jade was also used for insertion. The Kazakhs believed that clothing decorated with jade protects a person from lightning.

The set of the Kazakh national costume includes shoes: boots, shoes. Among the men there were light boots for riding ichigi - masi, decorated with silver plaques. Women's boots were sewn from red or green yuft, embroidered with silk. Women wore boots - kibis, studded with small figured silver plaques with a pattern.

Kazakh national costume

The Kazakh national costume reflects the ancient traditions of the Kazakhs, associated with their ethnic history, economic, social and climatic conditions.

The Kazakhs valued the skins of kulans, saiga and tigers, as well as dark furs - raccoon, muskrat, sable, marten and white - ermine and ferrets. The most expensive furs were sable and marten furs, the rest were valued cheaper. Fur coats were made from skins. The common name for a fur coat among Kazakhs is TON. Fur coats made from the fur of fur-bearing animals were called "ISHIK". A fur coat covered with high-grade silk was one of the most expensive items in a bride's dowry. It was called "BAS TON". The Kazakhs knew the technique of making fur coats from swan down, down of loons and herons. Fur coats were covered with cloth, silk, brocade, etc. and differed by the name of the fabric or by its color. Only noble people wore a fur coat covered with blue cloth and trimmed with beaver - KOK TON.

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Fur coats were also made from the skins of domestic animals.

Fur coats were also made from goat skins. Long hair was plucked out of them, leaving the undercoat. A fur coat made of such skins was called KILKA ZHARGAK. Kazakhs made suede from goat skins and sewed dressing gowns, light raincoats and trousers from it. Dressing gowns and bloomers were decorated with silk embroidery. When embroidering small patterns on the Kazakh national costume, the craftswomen used special rectangular or round hoops, depending on the outline of the ornamental pattern or the shape of the embroidered product. They embroidered with needles and an awl with a hook (for tambour embroidery) such elements of the Kazakh national costume as women's and men's hats - ZHELEK, KIMESHEK, SAUKELE, TELPEK, TAKIYU, frills of a woman's dress, as well as breast decorations - OMYRAUSHA, ALKA, suede raincoats, bathrobes, bloomers.

Felt is one of the traditional materials of outerwear in the Kazakh national costume.

In addition to sheep wool, camel wool was widely used in Kazakh clothes. Sheklen is an ancient type of clothing - a wide and relatively long cloak rolled from camel hair to protect against rain, snowstorms, and any bad weather. Shekpen were made from undyed wool (yellow, white) and dyed in blue, purple and other colors. Ceremonial shekpen, as a rule, were made of dyed wool, their seams were sheathed with galloon.

Robe - SHAPAN - the main and ancient type of Kazakh clothing, one of the constituent elements of the Kazakh national costume. Shapan was worn by both men and women. Dressing gowns were sewn not only from suede, but also from imported silk, woolen and cotton fabrics.

Kazakh men's and women's headdresses are varied. Some men's hats were made from felt. Of these, the most traditional and ancient is KALPAK, which is a pointed felt headdress.

The Kazakhs have a high hat made of white felt called AK KALPAK. The same hat with wide brim turned up is called AIR KALPAK. Ceremonial white hats ak kalpak were embroidered with white silk, sheathed with silver galloon around the crown and decorated with a corded seam along the edge. A variety of kalpak is TELPEK.

The next headdress, an element of the Kazakh national costume, is a kind of spring and autumn men's headdress - a hat - BORYK. Boryk - the oldest word, comes from the word "bory" - a wolf. The wolf is known to be an ancient totem of the Turkic tribes. The shape of the boryk hat is round with a high cone-shaped top or from several wedges with a truncated top, it is always trimmed with otter, sable, and lambskin fur.

Boryk-type hats were also worn by girls, only they were decorated with pendants and a bunch of owl, heron or peacock feathers. The Kazakhs call such a hat KAMSHAT BORYK - a beaver hat. Skullcap - TAKIA - a headdress, one of the elements of the Kazakh national costume. The skullcap is a light summer hat made of velvet, brocade or glazing. In the old days, they were sheathed along the edge with beaver, otter, squirrel fur, decorated with silver and gold braid.

Of the female headdresses of the Kazakhs - the most original and original - wedding, known as SAUKELE. Saukele is one of the ancient headdresses that existed among the Kazakhs until the very end of the nineteenth century. Saukele is a high cone-shaped headdress decorated with silver and gold coins, pearls and corals. Length - one and a half arshins. A wedding headdress is worn only for the first time after marriage, for about a year, and then it is taken off and put on only on big holidays, and then for four or five years.

After the birth of children, a young woman moves on to the third type of headdress - KIMESHEK. It is usually worn between the ages of 25-45. It is sewn from white fabric, often embroidered with satin stitch.

An integral part of the Kazakh national costume, male and female, were belts made of leather, velvet, silk, wool - BELDIK. in the manufacture of belts for ceremonial clothes, customers did not skimp on expensive materials, the craftsmen spared no time and put all their skills into work.

Leather belts were decorated with patterned embossing, figured metal plates with inserts of semi-precious stones, and carved bone plates. Such type-setting belts are an ancient element of clothing. Their Kazakh name is KISE.

Women's belts are similar to them, although they are wider and more elegant. Mostly women's belts were made of silk. belts made of silk with decorative knitting are called KUR BELDIK.

The set of the Kazakh national costume includes shoes: boots, shoes. Among the men there were light boots for riding ICHIGI - MASI, decorated with silver plaques. Women's boots were sewn from red or green yuft, embroidered with silk. Women wore boots - KIBIS, studded with small figured silver plaques with a pattern.

It is no secret that now Kazakhstanis, in comparison with Europeans, look more stylish. This is due to a conscious choice in favor of rigor and classics in clothes, because the fashion for such clothes never disappears. Kazakhstani youth has a sense of style and follows trends fashion industry. National flavor and modern style are easily combined in any clothing, whether it be a T-shirt and pants, holiday costume or evening dress.

Modern Kazakh national costume

At all times, the Kazakh national costume reflected the features of the life of the people and their traditions. It is with the help of clothing that one can determine belonging to a particular people, and in modern world it is also an addition to the creation of a perfect ethnic image.

Kazakh national costume cannot be confused with other ethnic costumes:

Male and female version the suit was sewn with a wrap on the left edge, straight cut.
Women's attire was richly decorated with fringe and satin stitch embroidery.
Large hats were put on the head, which were decorated with feathers, fur, embroidery, precious stones.
Everyday clothes, unlike festive ones, were decorated more modestly and were sewn from more practical fabrics.
The women's Kazakh costume differed from the men's in the presence of a skirt with an opening on two sides. The male version included voluminous bloomers.
Preference was given to all shades of red, blue, green and gold.

Modern dresses with Kazakh ornaments

More than 230 types of Kazakh ornament are known. It was with the help of drawing that the ancestors of modern Kazakhs conveyed information about the animal or plant world, about their vision of nature. There are ornaments designed only for everyday clothes, carpets or dishes. Of course, the modern national costume differs from the original dress. The original version was not as bright and had fewer decorations. Only wealthy people could afford a variety of fabrics and jewelry made of precious metals or stones. There is an assumption that long sleeves chapanas demonstrated the wealth of the girl's family and indicated her free status. Kazakh national patterns are becoming more and more popular. In order to be in trend, it is not necessary to wear a national costume. Moreover, designers are doing everything necessary to satisfy the needs of domestic fashionistas.

Kazakh wedding dresses in modern style

For tailoring the national Kazakh wedding dress, expensive fabrics such as organza, silk, satin or taffeta were used. The dress was decorated with gold ribbons, beaded embroidery and national ornaments. Traditionally Wedding Dress sewn from blue or red fabric, white, beige or pink were allowed.

Mandatory attribute of a wedding dress - saukele - one of the ancient headdresses. It took more than one month to create it. They decorated saukele with precious stones, beads, corals, used gold inserts and pearls. Like all decorations of a girl's life, saukele was worn only during the first year after marriage. The bride wore a beautiful camisole over the dress. Today's brides are increasingly choosing Kazakh national dresses in a modern style for their wedding ceremony. With such a dress, you can not only emphasize your individuality, but also express a tribute to your ancestors.

Evening dresses with Kazakh ornaments

Ethnic motifs are at the peak of popularity and are widely used at weddings, birthdays or parties. Put on a dress with a national Kazakh ornament - and you will be the center of attention. Is it possible not to notice such beauty?!

Kazakh dresses in modern style

Kazakh national modern dresses - it is a symbiosis of antiquity and modern fashion. One can say thanks to the hippie movement for the popularity of ethnic clothing. Thanks to them, we have a clear idea of what should be ethnic clothing. Even those who are indifferent to the hippie style began to enrich their appearance with national attributes: painted scarves, jewelry or colorful skirts. Some world-famous designers have repeatedly looked for inspiration in creating their collections. cultural traditions Kazakhstan.

If you also like things with a national theme - choose modern T-shirts, raincoats or dresses with national motifs and decorations, as Kazakh stars do.